How to check the heater on an oil heater. What to do if the oil heater stops working? Heater temperature regulator

No matter how high-quality an electric heater is, sooner or later it begins to heat poorly or stops working altogether. Electric heaters are not complex devices and they very rarely break down after purchase during the warranty period.

I’ll tell you right away what simpler design electric heater, the less often it will break down and the easier it will be to find and fix the fault.

I don't recommend it on my own repair oil radiators, because inside it there is a special coolant - transformer oil. In order to disassemble it, you will first have to drain and then refill the transformer oil, and this is a very troublesome and time-consuming task. If oil just starts to leak a little from the oil cooler, then I recommend soldering the leak with your own hands or carefully welding it using semi-automatic welding. In such cases various sealants or glue is useless to fix a leak.

Always unplug the heater- before starting work on disassembling or testing the device components with a multimeter.

In order to quickly and effectively find and fix a malfunction, you need to know the structure of the electrical appliance, as well as how to check all its components for serviceability. For convenience, below I will immediately talk about the design of the electric heater, and then about checking and repairing all components in order.

How does an electric heater work?

Practically, heaters are designed similarly. Both simpler and more complex models are available. We will consider the device most complex option. In simpler models, a thermal fuse and a tilt sensor may not be included in the circuit.

Let's consider a more simplified version with one-key switching and one light bulb. Often heaters are equipped with a two-key switch and several indicator lamps; the operating scheme will be similar, the only difference being that instead of one key there will be two, and there will be two heaters in one case. In convection options, a sensor for preventing objects from getting inside is often built in, but it connects and disconnects the power supply in the same way as a position sensor.

Any modern electric heater consists from a plug with a power cable, which is connected through a thermostat and a switch to a heating element installed in the housing - a heating element. Very often the heating element has not 2, but 3 contacts for connection. The first power supply wire is connected to one, and from the other from the socket - two other wires connected from two-gang switch, which allows you to turn on either one spiral or two at once - at full power.

The circuit may contain a thermal fuse, which automatically turns the device on and off to protect against overheating. A tilt sensor can also be installed, which opens the circuit when the heater is tilted above the permissible angle. In convection expensive models Other sensors are also installed. For example, protection against objects getting into the device.

Some models There may be a fuse to protect against overload currents or short circuits, which is triggered in emergency situations.

Step-by-step instructions for repairing an electric heater

First of all, Before you start repairing it yourself, unplug the heater from the outlet.
Unscrew the bolts or self-tapping screws and take out the control panel with a switch and a thermostat or thermostat.
If the device does not work at all and the light bulbs do not light up, then we check for the presence of 220 Volts on the wires of the cable connected to the outlet via. We replace the faulty cable or plug with a new one. Just be careful- may have stopped working electrical outlet, and the heater will be fully operational.
Next, on the device unplugged from the outlet We check the serviceability of all switch keys. In the on position there should be a short circuit on the contacts, and in the off position there should be an infinitely large resistance (open circuit).
At the next stage of repair checking the thermostat. The multimeter should show zero (short circuit) or small resistance on the contacts.
If the problem is still not found, then you will have to completely disassemble the electric heater with your own hands in order to get to its remaining components.
Sometimes the cause of the problem can be quite simple.- this is poor or absent contact at the points where the wires connect to the terminals. Reliability is checked by visual inspection, but it is better to use a multimeter for this purpose.
What follows check the heating element for integrity or heating element, usually consisting of two circuits. To connect it, one common wire and two wires coming from the two-key switch are used. To check, set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. For example, in my personal heater, one heating element shows a resistance of 50 Ohms, and the other shows a resistance of 100 Ohms. Very often, the heater stops heating at full power due to the failure of one of the heating element circuits, which cannot be repaired and is replaced with a new one of similar characteristics.
Very often the cause of heater failure is the failure of the thermal fuse., of which several can be installed in the housing. If at least one breaks down, all Tens will stop working. The thermal fuse is simply checked (in the picture it is marked as TP) - there should be zero resistance or short circuit between its contacts. If the device has more than one thermal fuse, then we simply remove the faulty one and connect the wires to each other, not forgetting to use heat-resistant materials for insulation. Please note that sometimes the thermal fuses may be all good, but the reason for their operation may be overheating of the convection heater due to clogged filters or air exchange holes.
Next you should check the position sensor, consisting of a weight, which, when the device is tilted, presses the microswitch and opens the circuit. In a vertical position, there should be zero resistance or short circuit between the contacts.
In fan heaters and some other types of electric heaters, a fan is additionally installed; if it begins to make a lot of noise during operation or does not work at all, then read our

Oil heater OL20-9 (does not turn on, has oil leaks) manufactured by OLMO Denmark is a ribbed metal battery. A heating element immersed in mineral oil is inserted into its pan. Power supply – network 220 V, 50 Hz. Has two heating stages. The lamp indicates that the heating element is turned on for heating. The thermostat knob smoothly sets the radiator switch-off temperature. This allows you to regulate the heating of the living space to room temperature.

Operating principle of the heater

Converts electrical energy in the warmth. The heater connected to the network gives off heat to the oil, which completely heats up the entire body. The heated radiator warms the surrounding space. Next, according to the laws of physics, air convection occurs: warm air goes up, cold air goes down.

Electrical circuit elements

Heater TEN2000.
Terminal block.
Power level switch cam, two-stage T100/55.
Bimetallic thermostat.
Electrical cord.

Flaws

Dries the air. When the heater operates for a long time, it becomes unbearable to breathe, so you need to place a glass or bath of water nearby. As the evaporation proceeds, the bath is filled with water by the owners. You shouldn’t work around the clock, you need to take breaks from work. You cannot dry wet things on it - the heating effect is lost, the heater overheats due to a lack of cold air flow.
Warm-up duration 20 - 30 minutes;
heavy weight;
bulky, takes up space.

Advantages

Unlike coil heaters and fan heaters, oil heaters

do not create noise;
do not burn oxygen;
safe (heating up to 60 degrees).

Malfunctions

Oil leaks.
The oil heater does not turn on.
The oil heater does not turn off.

Tools

Screwdriver.
Tweezers.
Gas key No. 2.

Disassembly procedure

Remove the hidden screw on the control panel.
Using tweezers, remove the spring that tightens the bracket securing the control panel to the radiator body.
Inspect the electrical circuit connections.
Check the serviceability of the heating element.
Eliminate leaks.

DIY oil heater repair

The heater does not turn on. Cause: The terminal box burned out, the power cord wire fell off

Repair: replace the faulty terminal block with a new one, restore the contact of the power cable.

Reason: oil leaks on the heater and splashing under the panel.

It is necessary: tighten the fastening nut of the heating element with a wrench, and if necessary, replace the gasket.

Many breakdowns heating devices You can fix it yourself, which will be very cheap.

Radiator structure

It is possible to carry out a repair that has broken down when its structure is known. It is like this:

Metal sealed container in the form of a battery or accordion. In the middle of it there is technical oil. It fills 90% of the capacity. The rest is air. It is necessary to compensate for oil expansion due to heating. If everything interior space If the radiator were filled with oil, the container would simply burst.
heating element. It is located in the middle of the main part of the radiator. It is always mounted at the bottom of the container. It heats the oil. During heating, oil circulates through the radiator. Most manufacturers install a double heating element. It has two spirals. The heating element is fixed so that all its contacts are on the outside of the tank. Can be built-in or removable.
Thermal fuse. It is located near the heating element above the heating element. The task of the fuse is to measure the oil temperature and, if it becomes critical or the oil has leaked (then the housing gets very hot), turn off the heating element. It is an auxiliary safety element, so it very rarely interferes with the operation of the device. There are two types: bimetallic and wire. The first one is more reliable.
. It can be found at the top of the heater. It is designed to regulate the heating of the radiator. The main part of this element - a bimetallic plate - is located in the heated air and reacts to changes in its temperature. Above it there are usually ventilation holes. There are the same ones at the bottom of the casing, which is attached to the main metal container.
Two switches. Each of them is connected by phase, neutral and ground wires, which extend from the heating element. Each of them is connected to a wire from a thermal relay. Near the switches there is a light bulb that lights up when the heating element is operating.

Oil cooler disassembly

It always starts with this procedure, because electrical elements are located under a protective casing, which is attached to one end of the heater. Moreover, the manufacturer attached it so that it seems as if it and the body are one whole.

Major breakdowns

Burnout, contact contamination.
Plug fault.
Thermal fuse failure.
Deformation of the bimetallic plate.
Broken heating element.
Failure of the fall or position sensor.
Oil leak.

Elimination of the most simple breakdowns

These breakdowns are oxidation, loose contacts, plug failure.

After disassembling the radiator, you need to check each wire. This is done using a multimeter or tester. First, check the serviceability of the plug. To do this, apply one terminal of the tester to one end of it. The second terminal of the tester must be attached to the connection between the thermal relay and the wire coming from the plug.

Sometimes there may be an extra connection on the power cable. It is done immediately after the cable enters the housing. Next, wires go from this connection to the thermal relay and heating element. The second terminal of the tester must be applied to each wire in such a connection. Check both plug outputs.

If the tester does not give a signal when alternately applying the second terminal of the tester to the end of the input phase and neutral wire, then the plug is faulty. She needs replace.

After this, all other wires are checked with a tester. One of its terminals is always attached to the plug. The other touches all terminals. The check sequence is as follows:

thermal relay contacts;
thermal fuse contacts;
contacts of the heating element operation regulator;
heating element contacts.

During the test, the thermal relay must be in a position in which the heating element will work. It is set to a temperature that is higher than the current one.

If, when checking the output contact of the thermal relay, there is no signal from the tester, then the contact may be bad or the thermal relay is broken, or rather bimetallic strip. First pay attention to the contact. The wire terminal is pulled out and checked. If it is clean, there is no oxidation or soot, then it is serviceable, and the problem lies in the terminal mounting base or the thermal relay. If the terminal has the listed shortcomings, then it needs to be cleaned. In extreme cases, it is replaced with a new one.

You can visually check all contacts. If the terminals are clean and undamaged, then the problem is not with them. Some of the connections may be loose. Then they are tightened or the base into which the terminal is inserted is flattened.

Read also: Characteristics and manufacture of oil heater

Repair of thermal relay and thermal fuse

This process consists of replacing the bimetallic strip or the entire element. The bimetallic plate must be replaced when it is severely deformed and any position of the relay wheel does not close the contact.

The bimetallic plate is changed as follows:

Set the lowest heating temperature.
Remove the regulator handle.
Unscrew the nuts and dismantle the frame.
Remove the bimetallic plate and put a new one in its place.
Assemble the regulator.
Check that the plate is working correctly. For this you need turn the regulator knob, changing the position of the plate and setting a certain temperature level. Next, heat the plate with a hairdryer or fan heater to the set temperature level. If it bends and the contact disconnects, then it is installed well. Otherwise, the replacement is incorrect. The complexity needs to be solved by releasing the pressure of the plate on the contact that corresponds to the lowest heating temperature.

Aligning the plate into the desired position is a lengthy process. It's easier to buy a new thermostat.

Similar actions are performed with a broken thermal fuse.

Repairing oil leaks

Loss of seal in the main part of the radiator and oil leakage are the most common problems with these heaters. Oil may leak out through an accidental hole or a wall that is rusted. If the second option occurs, then it is better to purchase another radiator, since corrosion can destroy a larger area than is visible. That's why after some time, oil will flow near the brewed or sealed area.

Holes or small holes, cracks can be:

solder;
brew.

The first option should be avoided. Soldering cannot provide a reliable connection, and with constant heating/cooling, the strong contact between the solder and the metal of the tank will begin to turn into a crack. Therefore, it is better to weld the hole.

Preparing the heater for soldering or welding is the same:

Draining oil from the tank.
Cleaning problem area from dirt and rust. This can be done with sandpaper.
Pouring water into the tank. This will avoid a possible fire (there was oil inside, and its remains were definitely preserved).
Turning the radiator over to a position in which water will not flow out of the hole.

Oil cooler - very reliable heating device. It works for years without creating unnecessary problems for its owner. But the time comes, and even he begins to fail. Some people simply get rid of it, some take it to the workshop, and some try to repair the oil heater with their own hands.

How difficult is this process? Let's figure it out together.

Device structure

Oil radiator Watt WOH-80

The components of an oil heater are:

A sealed accordion-shaped housing consisting of two panels welded to each other. Technical oil is pumped inside, and in almost all models air remains in small quantities. But this does not harm the device, because oil in contact with air does not create conditions for corrosion. If there was water instead, then the probability of rupture metal structures would be very high.
A heating element is inserted into the device in the lower part on the side. It is with its help that the oil and the radiator itself are heated.
A control and safety unit is installed next to the heating element. Its main and important element is a thermostat with a fuse. The first one is responsible for installing the necessary temperature regime, and the second - for operational safety. If for any reason oil begins to leak out of the housing, the fuse will trip and stop the supply of electricity to the heating element.

Today, manufacturers use disposable wire-type fuses or reusable bimetallic fuses in the form of tablets. As for the control relays, in oil heaters they are similar to an electric kettle, and not to irons. In the design, the relay hangs in the air without contacting the device body.

Each device has two switches. Each has three wires - phase, neutral from the heating element and a wire from the thermal relay. Three wires are needed for the switch illumination to work.

The electrical circuit of an oil heater is almost the same as in irons, electric kettles and other heating devices. It is simple and yet reliable. Typically, all these heaters have two heating elements installed, and when both are turned on at once, electricity consumption increases greatly. But at the same time, the time to reach the operating temperature increases. If the temperature in the rooms is low, then even with two heating elements turned on, the device can operate without turning off.

The metal case, which covers the power and safety unit of the device, has ventilation slots at the top and bottom. If you close them, the device will not suffer from this, but it will work with difficulty. It will turn off faster, but turn on less quickly. Therefore, it is recommended not to hang things on the radiator to dry. If this happens, try not to close the ventilation gaps.

We repair the heater

The appearance of the heater creates the feeling that it is a single whole, that is, the electrical unit and the body are connected using rolling. But this is only an appearance. Pay attention to the inscription “do not cover” - under it there are several screws with which the lid is held on the body. They need to be unscrewed, but the lid will not come off because there is a spring installed in its lower part that holds it. Simply remove it and remove the cover.

Now pay attention to the heating element. It is tightly and hermetically sealed. Manufacturers did this on purpose to prevent curious people from prying into it. These tubular heating elements last for decades, so there is no point in touching them. If one of them fails, it is better to purchase a new one oil heater. No one can repair such a breakdown with their own hands. To do this, you will have to replace the elements, but at home and even in some workshops it is impossible to roll the heating element back into the housing with 100% tightness. The result is constantly leaking oil, which can lead to big troubles.

But anyone can wipe the connection elements with alcohol. All of them are made in the form of terminals, so disconnecting, cleaning and connecting them back will not be a big problem. It is important here not to confuse anything when installing the wire to a specific terminal.

The same goes for replacing power supply and safety parts. It will be difficult to repair any of them with your own hands. And if you are not an expert in this matter, then you are unlikely to succeed. Therefore, there is only one way out - to replace the failed elements with new ones. They are all held on by screws or brackets, so removing them won't be too difficult. Again, we remind you that your main task is not to confuse the connection wires. After all electrical diagram radiator is the basis for its correct and efficient operation.

Tank repair

Oil heater Forte EW-RD

First the oil is drained. Pay attention to its variety. The fact is that when repairing the body of an oil heater, some of the oil will spill out, and it will have to be replenished. However, you cannot mix mineral oil with synthetic oil. Its volume must be such that there remains airbag. It is necessary for the expansion of the oil.
Typically, the metal body of the radiator is welded or soldered. The first option is preferable. But not everyone home handyman has such an opportunity, which is why many choose soldering. Please note that when soldering the oil cooler, you must use silver, brass or copper-phosphorus solder. Tin cannot be used. A burner is required. During the soldering process, water is poured into the tank. After completion of work, the body must be dried.
Oil in the usual form is not poured into a repaired tank. It must be evaporated at a temperature of +90C. It is not recommended to raise the temperature higher, as the oil will begin to oxidize.

Sometimes small holes in the body are sealed threaded connection. The repair method is not very reliable, but it is acceptable as a temporary option. It is important to seal the joint well here. During the repeated cycle - heating and cooling - any sealant will begin to crack, so smudges cannot be avoided.

Repair of heating elements in a heater

As for replacing the heating element with your own hands, this heating element is selected based on power. And if you decide to change it yourself, you will have to work hard. Flaring will not be so difficult, but to do the flaring again is big problem. Some models of oil heaters are equipped with removable heating elements, which makes them easier to repair. But even in this case, it is necessary to devote a lot of time and attention to the junction of the housing and the heating element. Any gaskets and sealants will not last long, and the likelihood is that you will return to repair work, very large.

To repair a tank hole, it is better to use electric welding. To do this you will need an inverter for thin sheets. Before you start welding work It is imperative to remove rust from the edges of the crack or hole. To repair a tank in this way is best option which increases your chances of success.

Conclusion on the topic

So, it is possible to repair the oil cooler yourself, but is it worth it? The price of the device on the market is not very high, and the heater itself lasts a long time, so there is no need to take risks by avoiding small expenses associated with the purchase of a new unit. But if you just want to delve into the electrical part at your leisure or work with welding, then go for it, taking into account all the recommendations given.

Hi all! Next electrical appliance, the repair of which we will consider is an electric heater. Electric room heaters are varied in appearance and design, so repair of electric heaters has its own characteristics for each type. There are three types of electric room heaters: convection and radiant.

In radiant heaters, heat is generated by electric current passing through a wire with high resistivity. The current heats the exposed wire to red. The wire is sometimes wound around ceramic tubes, sometimes placed in a quartz tube. Such heaters are also called infrared heaters. The heating power in them is regulated mainly by various combinations of available heating elements. They are equipped with metal reflectors that reflect heat, like the light reflector in a car headlight or flashlight.

Convection heaters have heating elements installed internally metal case device and can only be seen through the holes at the top and bottom of the device. These heaters have no reflector or moving parts. Heated air rises due to convection and exits through ventilation grille at the top of the device. In such heaters, the heating element is made in open form on mica or ceramic holders. They mainly have a power regulator in the form of stepwise or smooth adjustment.

Fan heaters ( heat guns, fan heaters) are now very widespread. They are small in size, but very effective and can heat large volumes of air in a room. In such heaters, air is sucked in by a fan and passes through the spirals and comes out already heated. They also have adjustable heating power and speed air flow. They have an additional thermostat and thermal protection against overheating. Their operation pattern is similar to that of a hair dryer. Additionally, some models are made with a mechanism for turning the heater from side to side in order to heat as much of the room as possible.

During operation various types electric heaters, they gradually become dirty and there is a need to clean them. Before you start cleaning the electric heater, unplug it from the mains by removing the plug from the socket and allow it to cool completely.

This type of electric heater does not require much in terms of cleaning. The main thing is to keep the heat reflector clean. To clean, remove the protective grille by unscrewing several screws. Take a slightly damp cloth and wipe the reflector, then wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Cleaning convection heaters

In this heater, regularly check the lower ventilation openings and if they become dirty with dust, carefully remove it with a vacuum cleaner or brush.

Cleaning fan heaters

Wipe the heater body made of heat-resistant plastic with a damp cloth. Avoid getting moisture inside the device.

Malfunctions of electric heaters and their elimination

If the heater breaks down, you need to disassemble it to repair it. Before disassembling the heater, do not forget to disconnect its plug from the mains. The body and its panels are secured mainly with self-tapping screws. This applies to radiant and convection heaters. The fan heater housing consists of two halves, attached to each other with screws. To unscrew the screws, sometimes you need a special screwdriver. Often the screws have different lengths, so remember or better sketch their position. After removing all the screws, place the fan heater on a table and carefully remove the top or bottom half. Try to remember the internal arrangement of the elements or sketch them. Now let's look at the main malfunctions of heaters, their causes and solutions.

Temperature is not regulated.

1. The thermostat is set to maximum temperature . By setting the thermostat knob to maximum, achieve comfortable conditions in the room, then turn the thermostat knob towards a lower temperature until it clicks and the fan turns off. Your heater will then turn on and off to maintain the set temperature.

2. The thermostat is set to minimum temperature. However, many heaters do not turn on due to the fact that the temperature is higher than the thermostat setting. This does not mean failure. To do this, turn the knob slightly towards increasing the temperature.

3. The thermostat is faulty. With this defect, the thermostat will not turn the heating on or off. To check the thermostat, unplug the heater, disassemble it and find the thermostat. Remove one end with a wire from one contact of the thermostat. Touching the probes of the tester and rotating the thermostat knob. Start at the minimum position and gradually rotate the knob until you hear a click. In this case, the tester should show a circuit closure. If during such a test the tester shows a constantly closed or open circuit, then the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement. If it is faulty, then remove the handle from it. Unscrew the mounting screws to remove the thermostat. Pull it out and install the same new one back.

In a fan heater, the thermostat is checked in the same way, but it is advisable to remove it to check. To do this, disassemble the case, set the thermostat knob to the minimum temperature and remove the knob from it. Remove the thermostat from the device so that you can remove the wires from it. Carry out the same check as described above.

If the heater's overheating protection is faulty, it will not disconnect the device from the network when it heats up to a critical temperature. high temperature and it will overheat. Thermal protection is mostly carried out together with the heating element, so such a replacement is often unprofitable. A malfunction may occur such as the failure of some heating elements of the heater to turn on. In such heaters, the switch is made with a multi-contact and its connection diagram is more complex. To check it, use a tester, having first sketched and disconnected the wires with tips from it.

In simpler radiant heaters, the heating element is switched on immediately after the device is connected to the network. The second element is put into operation using a simple switch. It will not be possible to check and replace such a switch. special labor. If the check shows that it is working, then the heating element may be faulty.

Heating element does not heat up

1. The thermostat is set to minimum temperature.

2. Overheat protection has tripped. To check, wait until the device has cooled down. It should then turn on on its own. Some thermal fuses must be turned on manually. This should be described in the heater service book.

The protection may also operate due to the fact that the convection openings of the heater are blocked. foreign object(for example, dust, fluff, etc.).

3. The heating element is faulty.

To check the serviceability of the heating element of the heater, disassemble it and remove the protective grill covering the heater. Loosen the mounting nuts at both ends of the heating rods and remove them from their holders. Place the heating element on the table and attach the tester probes to the contacts of the element. If the multimeter does not indicate the presence of a circuit, then the heater is unusable and needs to be installed in a working condition. Heating elements other types of heaters are checked in a similar way.

4. Poor contact.

Disassemble the heater body and carefully inspect all contact connections. If there are contacts that have turned blue from overheating, be sure to replace or tighten them.

Broken tips may occur. All this often happens as a result of careless handling of a household appliance.

The heater heats up, but there is no air flow

This fault applies to fan and convection heaters.

1. Fan holes are blocked.

Make sure there is nothing in the way of heated air exiting the heater housing. It could be dust, fluff, etc.

2. The fan does not rotate.

This may be because the impeller is spinning slowly or something is blocking it from spinning. To check, disconnect the heater from the mains, disassemble its housing and remove the impeller from the electric motor axis. Remove all accumulated dust and dirt from the motor bearing area. I recommend immediately lubricating the bearing with oil while the impeller is removed. This will extend the life of the bearing. Lubricate the other motor bearing as well.

3. The electric motor is faulty.

Check the electric motor for serviceability. To do this, check with a multimeter electrical resistance its windings. If the windings do not ring, then it has a broken winding and requires replacement or rewinding.

4. Poor electrical contact in the motor circuit.

5. The switch is faulty.

The heater doesn't work at all

1. No power supply. Check with a voltmeter for the presence of voltage in the power outlet. Perhaps the circuit breaker on the panel has switched off or the plugs have burned out.

2. The heater is not plugged in. Check to see if the plug is properly inserted into the outlet or if it is inserted at all.

3. The fuse in the plug has blown. If the plug has a fuse, disassemble it and check the fuse with a fuse tester.

4. The plug is not connected correctly.

5. Break in the power cord.

6. Heating elements are faulty.

7. The switch is faulty.

8. The thermostat is faulty. See check above.

9. Overheat protection has tripped.

10. Poor contact in the heater wiring.

Noise when operating the fan heater

1. Dust and lint have accumulated in the fan. Clean the fan from dirt.

2. Motor bearings are not lubricated. Disassemble the heater and lubricate all bearings with a small amount of oil. If the noise does not go away, then the bearings require replacement.

So we looked at the repair of electric heaters with our own hands.