The bathhouse includes several separate rooms, which are separated by partitions. Thus, the partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can be made of different materials. The installation method directly depends on the selected building material. This article will discuss some options for arranging partitions, as well as technologies for their installation.

There are several types of baths that are considered wooden:

• Made from rounded logs.

The partition in a log bath can be made using five-wall log technology. However, this will require a large amount of money and the help of qualified specialists. If this is not possible, you can make a partition from brick, gas blocks, etc.

Although we will consider different technologies manufacturing a partition between the steam room and the washing room, a priority option in wooden bath is a partition made of wood, and on the other hand, made of brick, it will be more durable and less susceptible to negative influence moisture.

A frame partition means a structure made of a wooden frame, which is insulated with mineral wool and covered with clapboard. The partition is mounted on a concrete curb. Installation process frame partition consists of several stages. Next, each stage will be considered in detail.

The first step is to make a border. Its height should be 100 mm and width 125 mm. This border is needed to strengthen the structure, as well as to lay it along ceramic tiles. It will completely isolate the tree from water. The threshold is made when pouring the screed (if the floor is concrete). You can also do this work during the installation of the partition. To do this, install formwork from boards. It is important not to forget about the presence of a doorway, according to the standard 940 mm. The base is treated with a deep penetration primer for better adhesion. To ensure that the poured border is not damaged, before pouring, drill holes inside the formwork and hammer in small pieces of wire or screw in dowels 1/2. When the poured concrete has dried, it is necessary to lay two layers of roofing material on top.

At the very beginning preparatory work take a chainsaw and cut a groove measuring 4x21.5 cm in the walls. The height will depend on the room, but usually it is 250 cm.

At this stage, blanks for the base of the frame are first made. The dimensions should be as follows:

• 6x10x210 cm;
• 6×10×176 cm.

Drill holes in the blanks for anchors and lay the bars on the curb. So, the base of the partition is fixed to the floor with anchors. On average, each workpiece will require 3 anchors. The side posts are mounted in longitudinal grooves made in the walls and screwed in with screws. After this you need to do supporting frame designs. Place the outer stands, the size of which is 6x10x235 cm, on the base and secure with screws. Be sure to place a washer under each screw!

It is better to make the grooves in the racks longitudinal and oval. Due to this, the frame will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house. The screws will slide along with the walls. As a result, there will be no interference during shrinkage of the log house. And the frame will also not be under load.

It's time to design the doorway. For the frame, place two vertical posts measuring 6x10x206 cm. Secure the frame frame with jumpers using self-tapping screws. As for the top beam of the frame, at the top it is necessary to leave a gap of 30 mm between the ceiling. Due to this, the expansion or settlement of the log house will be compensated. For this reason, the side grooves in the walls are made to their full height.

The frame dimensions must be accurate. After all, the quality of the entire partition will depend on this. Therefore, before fixing this or that element, check the horizontal, vertical and dimensional conformity.

As for thermal insulation, you can use mineral wool 10 cm thick. Cells of 120×60 cm should be made in the frame. This size corresponds to the standard size of mineral wool slabs. The cotton wool is covered with polyethylene on both sides. It is secured with a stapler. These actions achieve several goals at once:

• Protection against moisture penetration.
• Thermal insulation.
• Noise insulation.

At the final stage of manufacturing the frame partition, the lining is attached to the sheathing (the sheathing is made from 2.5x5 cm beams). The lathing can be secured on top of the film and secured with self-tapping screws to the frame.

If the resulting opening measures 82x206 cm, then the frame should be 80x205 cm. So, there will be a 1 cm gap on each side. When the frame is installed, fill all the gaps polyurethane foam. Surplus frozen foam cut with a construction knife.

Considering the fact that the standard frame has a width of 11.5 cm, the open part of the opening should be closed planed board, size 60×30 mm. It is very important that the plane of the outer edge of the lining matches the outer edges of the boards.

When the partition frame is ready, the washing room should be tiled. Although this process can be performed after laying the lining. Installation of the lining is very simple using the tongue-and-groove technology. The lower beam of the sheathing from the sink side is attached to the curb, and from the steam room to the floor. It only needs to be attached to vertical posts. The lining is attached to the sheathing using clamps.

The gap between the ceiling and the frame partition is sealed with any thermal insulation material. At the end of the work, it is also recommended to close each screw with wooden pins of a suitable size.

Skirting boards, trim and final finishing

This is the technology used to install a frame partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you follow it step by step, you will succeed.

Another method of separating the steam room and washing room is to build a brick partition. There are two ways to lay bricks:

1. Spoon masonry in 1/2 brick.
2. A whole brick.

Considering the weight of the brick, the partition will be very massive. Therefore, to reduce the weight of the structure, use hollow bricks.

Below will be given detailed instructions how to make a brick partition.

Preparation

The first step is to do all the preparatory work. You should start with work surface. It is necessary to remove all plank elements from the floor, right down to the foundation. Sweep the base with a broom and wet it. It is also necessary to equip workroom good lighting. Excess items should be removed. At the end of the preparatory work, you outline the contours of the future structure.

To work with cement mortar, you will need:

• grinding machine;
• sieve;
• shovel;
• mixing container.

So, first you sift the sand from foreign objects. The mesh should have small cells. Next, place the container for mixing the solution so that it has a stable base. Mixing ratio 3:1. To prevent the solution from drying out, make a small batch, for example, two buckets of cement and six buckets of sand. It must be mixed with water. This volume of solution will be enough for you to work for an hour. The consistency of the mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

During work, the solution tends to shrink and harden. Don't rush to add water. It is enough to stir every 10–15 minutes.

For construction you will need the following set of tools:

• level;
• plumb line;
• rule;
• trowel;
• pick.

The entire work process follows this scenario:

1. Stretch the rope as a guide. Lay out the solution and use a trowel to level it. It takes some time for it to set.
2. Place a second layer on top of it and begin laying the first row of bricks.
3. Place the first brick against the wall. Apply the solution to its end part and press it against the wall. Align the brick along the stretched rope, lightly tapping it. Immediately remove excess solution.
4. When laying brick, you must immediately decide where the doorway will be. It must be installed immediately. It should be leveled and only then covered with bricks.
5. The brick should be laid close to the box. For ligation with the frame, you can use metal plates or reinforcement. One end is screwed to the frame, and the other between the brick row.

When the first row is ready, the subsequent ones are laid according to this principle. Be sure to check each row for level.

The use of a dressing is important. In this case, the existing load will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be quite strong. To further strengthen the masonry, place reinforcement or metal strips in the seam every five rows.

A similar connection must be made to the wall. Above door frame a channel for reinforcement is installed. Fill the gap between the ceiling and the last row of masonry with scrap bricks and mortar. As you can see, there are no special secrets when building a brick partition. All the work can be done with your own hands. The only thing you need to consider is a few important nuances:

• If you do not plan to plaster the wall, then the quality of the masonry should be appropriate. If plaster is applied, then it is important to monitor only the vertical level of the wall.
• If the wall is to be plastered, craftsmen often use used bricks. This reduces the financial costs of purchasing material several times.
• If you plan to carry out certain communications through the partition, then you can install a small section of plastic pipe. Its diameter must correspond to the actual need. In this case, there is no need to cover the pipe with solution; you just need to blow it out with foam. This is important, because after a while something may change and thanks to this the structure of the wall will not be disturbed.

This one is very popular building material like foam block or aerated concrete. A partition made of foam block is made much faster, unlike brick. Standard size one block is 300×600 mm. As for the thickness, here large selection. As a rule, blocks with a thickness of 75, 100 and 150 mm are chosen for the construction of partitions.

Depending on the thickness of the foam block, the price will vary. Therefore, to calculate your budget, think about this nuance in advance.

The process of manufacturing a partition from aerated concrete has several successive stages, compliance with which will help you complete all the work yourself.

Marking

Also, as in the case with brickwork, the floor and walls should be prepared. Next, mark the doorway and pull the cord. In accordance with the markings, lay out the first row without mortar and, if necessary, cut the block to size. Afterwards, you remove the blocks and waterproof the masonry site.

You can cut foam blocks with a grinder or a hacksaw. If these tools are not available, regular one will do hacksaw.

Special glue is used for laying gas blocks. The glue is mixed using an electric drill with a mixer attachment. Glue mixture Apply a layer of 3 mm to the blocks. Next, install the block and lightly tap it. Be sure to check the vertical/horizontal level. For better strength, move the block 1/2 and start the second row of masonry. When connecting the partition to the wall, perform a bandage, just as in the case of brickwork. To do this, make holes in the wall up to 5 cm, and place the blocks directly on them. This dressing can be done every 4-5 rows.

Before laying the last row, lay out reinforcement Ø1.6 cm along the entire length of the partition. On top of it is a layer of glue and the last row of blocks to the ceiling. This will serve as a kind of armored belt.

Before plastering, carry out all necessary communications. Next, install the beacons and perform plastering. As a solution, you can use the same mixture as for masonry. When the plaster has dried, the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative tiles.

By observing this simple diagram, you won't have any special problems. Please note the following useful tips:

• When buying blocks, pay attention to the quality of the product. The smoother they are, the easier it will be to process them.
• The density of the blocks does not matter. The size of the blocks depends on the specific room.
• It is better to buy those blocks whose production is based on cutting.
• To increase the density of the masonry, wet the blocks before laying.
• To avoid a vertical seam, offset each row by 1/2 block.
• Leave a small gap between the partition and the wall and fill it with foam.

Glass partition

For beginners, installation glass partition no easy task. If you decide to use glass blocks, then their installation is carried out using mortar or liquid nails. Also, glass partitions are installed in modular cells.

If you decide to lay a glass partition according to the principle of bricklaying, then the work looks like this:

1. Clean the base of the floor from dirt, dust and debris. Level the floor and, if necessary, perform a small screed.
2. Lay out the first row of glass blocks strictly according to the level. To ensure that the seams are the same, place a plastic cross in each seam.
3. Reinforce the masonry vertically and horizontally, every 2 rows, with iron rods Ø6 mm.

As for the method of installing a glass partition in cellular grilles, everything is much simpler here. Cells can be made of wood, MDF and plastic. They are attached to the ceiling, wall and floor. The blocks themselves are installed on a sealant, the base of which should be rubber.

So we've looked at possible options making a partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you have carried out such work, then share your experience with our readers by leaving comments at the end of this article.

Video

From the video provided, you can learn about some of the details of finishing the steam room:

At all times, the partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink was the element without which the entire ritual of bathing would turn into something more ordinary. Its installation is carried out on different stages. You can make a partition during the construction of the bathhouse itself, integrating it into general project, and during the period of reconstruction.

Brick wall and its insulation

In a brick bathhouse, the partition can be laid out from the base material. But it is necessary to take into account that brick has a fairly high heat capacity and a high heat transfer coefficient. This means that the partition itself inside the bathhouse will be constantly hot (it’s easy to get burned) and the heat loss in the steam room will also be impressive. Therefore, the structure should be insulated as much as possible.

On the steam room side, the partition will need to be sheathed with a vapor barrier, and a material with low thermal conductivity will be laid on top of it. This may be cladding made of hardwood. To secure it in the upper and lower parts of the partition, it is recommended to install wooden blocks.

First, using a hammer drill, make holes in the walls along the line of the intended fastening, then mount the bars, securing them with anchors. The space between them is filled with a heat insulator, on top of which a reflective screen for infrared rays can be placed. This could be foil or a special material. After this, we cover the wall with clapboard. resinous wood (coniferous species) should not be used in a steam room: when heated and under the influence of humid air, phytoncides begin to be released from it. For an absolutely healthy person, this will only be beneficial, but with the slightest allergy, such a substance can cause an exacerbation of the disease.

It is recommended to finish the part of the wall that borders the sink with any moisture-resistant material. This can be gypsum, ceramic tiles, textured or structural plaster, or the same wood, impregnated with an antiseptic and coated with several layers of varnish.

Wall in a wooden bath

Modern baths are rarely made of brick: they are increasingly used in construction. natural wood. It's practical and not expensive. In such a bathhouse, you can make a frame-type partition with your own hands using minimal costs and to install it you will need:

• wooden blocks;
• insulation and vapor barrier;
• edged board;
• hacksaw;
• hammer and nails (finishing);
• skirting boards (preferably wooden);
• hammer drill and pieces of reinforcement;
• roulette;
• building level.

First, make markings in the upper and lower parts of the bathhouse, along which the partition will be installed in the future. Make sure that both lines are in the same plane, perpendicular to the floor. You can ideally make markup using laser level, but even an ordinary plumb line in skillful hands will allow you to do everything accurately. Try to take measurements at several points and at different heights. Once you are sure of the accuracy of the markings, you can place wooden blocks along the perimeter along the existing lines, securing them to the walls, ceiling and floor. They are secured on top either with nails or anchors. In the lower part, it is recommended to place it on reinforcement studs, which are pressed into the concrete floor or load-bearing beam.

The part of the partition in the bathhouse on the side of the washing compartment can be immediately covered with an edged board. And then you need to fill the space between the wooden walls (the width of the block) with hydro and vapor barrier, insulation. The named materials must be placed in the sequence described above towards the sink. This will ensure their protection from moisture and vapors. Most craftsmen suggest laying hydro and vapor insulators on both sides of the insulation. It will cost more money, but you will have much greater confidence in the durability of the partition in the bathhouse.

On last stage you have to sew up part of the partition on the steam room side. The same lining made of hardwood is used here. All that remains is to mount the baseboards, treat the material with a layer of antiseptic, and the partition between the steam room and the sink is ready.

The door is installed during installation.

It is advisable to use the door in a low version, this way you will reduce heat loss inside the steam room and provide a comfortable microclimate in the washing compartment of the bathhouse.

Even the smallest bathhouse usually has two rooms: a dressing room and a steam room combined with a washing room. But here the question arises: what kind of partition should be between them? Wooden or brick? And how to build it correctly from the point of view of heating the premises?

In this regard, we have home handyman A large number of questions may arise, which we will try to answer in this article.

What you need to know about partitions in the bathhouse

Before building a partition in a bathhouse with your own hands, you should take into account a number of features. In addition, there are different requirements for wooden and brick buildings.

About partitions in wooden baths

Wooden baths include those built from timber, logs, or assembled using frame-panel technology.

Advice!
Experts do not recommend installation, especially if irregular operation of the building is planned.
The fact is that with an internal brick wall you will need more time to warm up the room, especially if we're talking about about the cold season.

The construction of internal walls from the same material from which the external ones were erected is possible, but there is simply no need, which is explained by several reasons:

1. No indoor exposure atmospheric phenomena, therefore equally thick and durable partitions are of no use here.
2. If you use a material of a smaller cross-section here, this can lead to problems at the joints.

Experts most often advise equipping internal walls using frame technology, since making a partition in a bathhouse using the frame principle is quite simple, and also economically profitable.

Frame walls have the following advantages over a traditional log house:

1. Price.
2. Less weight, and therefore less load on the foundation, which extends the durability of the structure.
3. Ease of operation.

At the same time, you get warm and durable interior partitions.

We build a bath wall using frame technology

Let's look at how to make a partition in a wooden bathhouse.

There are simple instructions for this:

1. For interior walls, we select boards about 5 cm thick and no more than 15 cm wide. Thinner boards may fail.
2. We form a sheathing from the boards with a step equal to the width of the heat-insulating mat.
3. We lay a heat insulator between the boards. It is best to use mineral wool for this, since the foam is flammable and can emit harmful substances at elevated temperatures.
4. We stuff a waterproofing material on top of the plank frame.
   The following materials can be used as waterproofing:
   
   • Regular polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 150 to 20 microns is taken.
   • Special waterproofing material, which has a foil side.
   • Penofol, which is a type of foam on which foil is applied on one side. This way you create an additional layer of waterproofing.

Advice!
Mineral wool is afraid of water, so it is necessary to reliably protect it with a waterproofing layer.
The strips are laid overlapping, taped with construction tape.

1. The finishing material is installed as the last layer. Most often this is lining, which most closely matches the interior and microclimate of bathhouses.
2. The stove should be installed no closer than a meter from the partitions.

Advice!
If a metal stove is used in the bathhouse, you will need a brick partition, preferably even made from fireclay blocks.
If the metal stove will be heated directly in the steam room, then the wall can be wooden, but it should be sheathed with non-flammable materials.

Partition in a block bath

How to make partitions in a brick bath? Here experts also recommend using the same frame technology.

There are several reasons for this:

1. Brick walls heat up more slowly, and accordingly, you will incur additional heating costs, especially in winter.
2. Condensation will settle on the brick or blockwork and will need to be drained somewhere.

Some professionals advise using magnesite sheets instead of boards.

They are made on the basis of perlite and cellulose fibers. They are fixed on vertical profiles, after which the installation described above is repeated.

Advice!
Such partitions can be constructed without insulation.
Here the insulating function will be performed by the air space between the boards.

It is best to use lining as a finishing for such walls.

Naturally, in brick bath you can create a partition from brick. In this case, it is best to use half-brick masonry, further strengthening the structure steel wire every few rows.

Advice!
Erect brick partition V wooden house it is possible only when the final shrinkage of the log house occurs.

Conclusion

Construction of a bathhouse is a very responsible process that requires a plan and must take into account a number of nuances. And since there are at least two rooms in the bathhouse, the question proper arrangement partitions is very relevant. The information above will help you build interior wall, without making mistakes, and the video in this article will offer you to see the obvious points of this problem.

The partition between the washing and steaming compartments of the bath can be made in several ways. The most common option is the manufacture of a wooden frame; in second place is a solid timber partition, the manufacture of which is quite expensive. AND last method dividing two rooms implies arranging a whole brick wall half a brick thick.

We will consider a frame partition made of wood as the easiest to manufacture. They are also used as the basis of the frame wall metal racks, but this option is used much less frequently, since the metal is prone to destruction under prolonged exposure to high humidity.

A wooden partition is made quickly enough and does not require large financial and labor costs, in comparison with solid walls made of timber or brick. At the same time, the air space in the voids between the frame elements causes condensation to form at the points of temperature difference between the heated steam room and the colder air inside the partition.

In the diagram PO - steam room, MO - washing department.

An important question when choosing the type of partition is to insulate it or not? Here again we can return to the comparison different types pier. In front of a solid partition made of timber, brick or block, this question does not arise at all. The dense material of such walls itself will sufficiently protect the washing compartment from overheating. At the same time, it does not have high enough thermal insulation properties to prevent heat from leaking into the washing room at all.

How to make a partition with your own hands?

First of all, it is made wooden frame, during the arrangement of which special attention you need to pay attention to its attachment to the walls. This is important when the bathhouse is made of fresh timber or logs. These types of buildings inevitably shrink over time, which must be taken into account when creating any internal partitions.

The partition in the photo above is installed on the walls using special metal fasteners designed to create a so-called “sliding partition”. The corner is fixed motionless on the partition block, and installation to the log house wall is carried out using stainless steel screws so that they can move inside the vertical fastening groove.

An alternative would be to install a wooden sliding structure, without the use of metal corners.

The partition is fixed to the ceiling metal fastening with vertical grooves. By analogy with wall corners, stainless steel screws are screwed into them, which over time will move along these grooves.

A foil vapor barrier on kraft paper is laid on top of the wooden frame on the steam room side. All joints of the material are sealed with foil tape. There should be no unclosed holes or damage in the vapor barrier layer to prevent moisture from penetrating into the wall.

As you can see in the photo, the surface of the wall near the floor has a small plinth made of tiles. The tiles are mounted on top of SML or DSP boards using special glue. The slabs are attached directly to the frame or to a sliding structure if there are abutments to the walls of the log house.

Installation is being carried out on the sheathing finishing partitions on the steam room side, in in this case this is a lining.

An important point is where the walls meet the floor. Here you need to carefully ensure that the vapor barrier layer is continuous.

To insulate or not?

Regarding this, it is worth saying that here you should look at the circumstances, taking into account the features specific bath. First of all, you need to determine how much the washing room needs to be warmed up. If in the bath design washing room along the perimeter external walls has good thermal protection or a brick shield or part is placed in the wall between the washing room and the steam room brick oven steam room, it is obvious that the washing compartment does not need additional heating.

If there is no need to additionally heat the washing room, thermal insulation can be placed in the frame between it and the steam room. This will make it possible to retain more heat in the steam room, as a result of which it will warm up faster and cool down more slowly. In addition, the use of an insulated partition guarantees protection of the sink from overheating, which often happens in bathhouses that have good thermal insulation of the outer walls of the structure.

In general, insulation is not performed in the partition. The fact is that the insulation in the space between the wet steam room and the wet washing room will inevitably collect moisture. Feature of heat-shielding material made of basalt wool is that on one side it must be able to evaporate moisture from its surface. That is, it will be necessary either on the side of the steam room or on the side of the washing compartment not to protect the wall with a sealed vapor barrier.

In the bathhouse, both the washing room and the steam room have high humidity and in each of these rooms, as a rule, a vapor-proof film is installed to protect the wooden frame from large quantity moisture in the air of both compartments. If there are mineral wool slabs in the wall, then even if a sealed protection from moisture is created on both sides, they will still collect moisture, and there is nowhere to evaporate it.

The only acceptable option for installing thermal protection in a partition is to make special holes for ventilation with the arrangement ventilation gaps. The holes are made not in the walls, but at the ends of the frame.

Thus, we can conclude that if sufficient thermal insulation of the washroom from overheating is needed, you should install a solid partition made of timber or thick boards without cracks and free space inside the partition. This design will allow you to isolate the washing room from the active heat coming from the steam room and will not create the danger of excessive condensation.

The lack of insulation in the wall in most bathhouse buildings is rather a necessity. This is due to the fact that it is the steam room that actively warms up the entire building and the washing room needs heat no less than other rooms, but rather even more. The wash compartment, as a rule, is colder than we would like, and the heat coming from the steam room just compensates for this shortcoming.

If you bought a bathhouse project or drew it yourself with your own hands, then most likely you thought about the layout of the rooms (layout). The number of partitions, of course, depends on the number of rooms. There are at least two of them in the bathhouse: a steam room and a washing room. Partitions can be made immediately during the construction of the log frame from the same material as the walls (timber, logs, brick). But you need to keep in mind that such a partition requires a foundation the same as for the main walls, which in turn will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the bathhouse. The process of erecting such a partition is no different from erecting walls.
After construction, such partitions must be well caulked for better noise and heat insulation, and openings can be cut only after the entire frame has settled. If a rounded log or laminated veneer lumber is used to build a partition, then such a wall does not require additional interior finishing.

The easiest and most inexpensive way to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands is to use frame technology construction. To do this, you need to purchase 50 by 100 mm bars for the frame itself, insulation based on stone-mineral wool, vapor barrier and the actual finishing material, such as lining. Before installing the partition, the floors in the bathhouse must already be done. We mark the location of the wall on the floor and fasten to the floor with long screws (102 mm) or nails (120 mm) the bottom block on which the vertical bars will rest.
We nail or screw a vertical post to the wall level on one and the other side of the wall, leaving a gap of five centimeters at the top for the top bar. We place the top beam on the vertical bars and fasten it to ceiling beams self-tapping screws. In this way, in the future, when installing the next vertical racks, we will not have to constantly control the vertical of the wall, but simply attach the racks to the upper and lower beams. Now we mount the vertical beams of the door opening and fasten them with galvanized corners. The following vertical beams must be placed at a distance of one centimeter less than the width of the insulation for a tighter fit. Standard insulation has dimensions of 60 cm by 100 cm, which means that the distance between the beams must be 59 cm. A larger distance between the beams should not be made, as this will reduce the strength of the partition. Vertical beams can be attached to the top beam using galvanized metal corners or using 150 mm nails. To avoid cracking of the timber when fastening it with a screw or nail, it must be drilled with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the fastener (screw or nail). After installing the frame, we tightly stretch the vapor barrier on one side of the wall and make a lathing for installing lining or other finishing material, such as drywall. For sheathing, a clapboard sawn lengthwise or an edged board sawn lengthwise is suitable. A width of five centimeters is quite enough for a sheathing bar. Now you can lay the insulation, in this case 10 cm thick, or in two layers of 5 cm, but in this case it is necessary to cover the joints. When laying insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands, you must use the following products: personal protection and use a respirator. We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier and make a sheathing. You should not use oilcloth or cellophane instead of a vapor barrier, as this can lead to the insulation getting wet from condensation that will form in the bathhouse due to temperature changes. The side of the partition that is located in the washing room can be sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard and ceramic tiles or mosaics can be placed on it. On the steam room side, the partition must be covered with clapboard that is not made of coniferous wood, since it contains a lot of resin. For finishing the steam room in suitable for a bath lining made of linden or abasha.
For a rest room, a regular pine lining or a House block is suitable. Sometimes the walls in the steam room are additionally covered with foil material, but this is only necessary for longer heat retention. If you caulk well and insulate the outside of the bathhouse yourself, with your own hands, then the heat will not go anywhere for a long time, and the wood will “breathe” better.

It is better to make part of the partition in the bathhouse near the stove out of brick.
To do this, you need to pour a concrete base, which you can do yourself using wooden beams. A wall thickness of half a brick will be sufficient. When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to the vertical and horizontal lines of the wall. Completely do brick walls It’s not worth it in a wooden bathhouse. This is a high cost of material and such a wall requires a full foundation.

IN wooden partitions All necessary communications can be easily accommodated: electrical wiring, water pipes. Partitions in a wooden bath should be made of natural material, such as a tree.