Floors made of monolithic reinforced concrete floor slabs have long been known and have proven themselves in the construction of private and multi-storey buildings. To this day, they are in demand and popular, especially in the construction of large-area cottages. Reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs have a lot of advantages; the design of these slabs is such that, in addition to evenly distributing the load over the entire surface, they also additionally add rigidity and stability to the building.

General information and advantages of reinforced concrete slabs

The slabs are made of concrete, in which iron reinforcement is installed during pouring. The slabs along their length have circular longitudinal voids, which, in combination with reinforcement, gives the structure a huge advantage. A reinforced concrete slab is able to withstand bending, does not break under high loads, it is very durable at correct operation during construction. Factory-produced monolithic slabs meet all the requirements for floors; they are durable and resistant to high temperatures. It is very important that the reinforced concrete slab is a good sound insulator and, in addition, retains heat.

Equally important is the fact that the use of slabs in construction greatly speeds up and simplifies the process; they can be installed where no other flooring method is suitable. For example, laying the floors of a private house with an area of ​​more than 100 m² using pouring will take a lot of time, in addition, labor costs, as well as financial costs, will be much higher than when laying the floor with reinforced concrete slabs.

Correct selection of slabs and calculations

When laying the floor of the first floor, you need to understand that a large load will be placed on it, so it is important to correctly calculate the weight of the structure and take into account everything, right down to the total weight of the house and the furniture or equipment that will be installed in the premises. The thickness of reinforced concrete slabs is standard and equal to 220 mm, but the slabs can be designed for different weight loads depending on their brand. Here, the reinforcement of the slab and what grade of concrete it is made of play a role.

Reinforced concrete slabs are produced in lengths of 2.4-6.8 meters, the width of such slabs, depending on the length, is 1.2-1.5 meters, weight 0.9-2.5 tons. This allows the use of small equipment during construction, cranes with a lifting capacity of up to 3 tons. It is not difficult to understand which slab you need; a marking is placed on the surface, for example, a PC 8-42-12 slab will be 4.2 meters long, 1.2 m wide, with a weight load of 800 kg/m².

Rules for installing slabs depending on the floor

When laying floor slabs, it is important to consider where they will be laid, since the rules for installing a basement floor differ from laying floors between floors.

In the case of laying a basement floor, it is necessary to first carry out work to level the foundation, namely its upper edge. To do this, the upper edge of the foundation is not made of high formwork from boards; here it is necessary to pour a small layer of concrete in order to bring it out perfectly flat surface horizontally. Now a reinforced concrete slab can be laid on such a platform.

The slabs are laid taking into account their taper; it turns out that the lower part of the slab will fit evenly with the adjacent row. A small seam forms at the top, which must be sealed with cement mortar. This results in an almost flat floor surface in the shortest possible time. Depending on the type of floor you are laying, you may need to use a thin screed, but for most flooring materials a slab without additional finishing is suitable.

In the case when a reinforced concrete slab is laid as a floor between floors, then an additional reinforced concrete belt must be made on the walls made of bricks or blocks. This is something like a seismic belt, which is performed as follows. When the height of the walls is laid out to the required height, another row is laid, but one layer needs to be laid in order to leave an inner end around the entire perimeter, into which the slab will lie, and from the outside this place will be covered with brick. Before laying the slab, as in the first case, it is necessary to perform formwork and pour a thin layer of concrete with reinforcement. As a result, a niche is formed with a small gap for laying insulation materials, where the slab is laid. A thin layer of reinforced concrete increases the strength of the surface and evenly distributes the load from the slab along the walls.

Insulation

Floor slabs themselves serve as good insulation, since they are located inside the premises of the house, there is no need for their insulation, but it is necessary to insulate the ends. The slab has high thermal conductivity, which is undoubtedly good, because the slab on the upper floor conducts heat from below and thus the floor becomes warm. But the stove will receive cold from the ends, so you need to protect it with a layer of insulation. In the niche that was formed during the reinforcement process, where the slab adjoins the wall, it is necessary to lay insulation. Then this space, like the rest of the cracks, is filled with concrete.

It is necessary to carry out insulation, otherwise condensation will form in these voids, which the slab will absorb and gradually collapse. In addition to the destruction of the slab, moisture will appear in the room, and in places where there is reinforcement, rust will appear, which will not be covered with any putty.

Actually, this completes the process of creating floors and interfloor ceilings; now you can begin finishing the floor with materials. As already mentioned, you may have to make a thin leveling layer of screed

With these types of work, construction equipment can greatly help you, for example

When conducting overhaul in any room they very often resort to choosing a floor screed instead of the old one. This is due to the fact that it is not always possible to meet level base, on which flooring is laid even in new buildings or houses with history. As for the installation of a floor screed, that is, an intermediate layer between the floor slab and the covering, in panel houses, there are some peculiarities that are worth familiarizing yourself with before starting the whole process. Otherwise, problems may arise not only with neighbors, but also with management companies.

Concept

IN panel house The floor screed, regardless of which option is chosen, is created to strengthen the foundation. With all this, the leveling of floors in a panel house is carried out very efficiently. If everything is done with high quality and in compliance with technology, then the flooring flooring done quickly and easily. In addition to this, the service life of the material used in the work increases.

Screeds are also made in panel houses for the purpose of ensuring that all repairs in the rest of the apartment are not in vain. Sleek and catches the eye of everyone who enters the room. If it is not possible to screed the floor in a panel house on your own, then it is best to contact specialists who will complete the entire scope of work in a short time at an affordable cost.

When screeding, one must not forget about the sound insulation layer. After all, panel houses are characterized by the ability to hear neighbors not only from the upper floors, but also from those below. In order to feel calm and comfortable in the apartment, when installing a floor screed, you should think about this layer.

Types of screeds

All floor leveling options have different purposes. Some contribute to the formation of a heated floor system, while some act as a finishing base. Everything will depend on specific situation and the desire to create a level floor in accordance with all requirements and rules. Screeds are divided into the following types:

Currently, technology has made it possible to use various polymer components. The main focus is on polypropylene fiber. It replaces reinforcing mesh or other reinforcement options, which also reduces the entire mortar, and, consequently, the pressure on the floor. All these points are very important for a panel house, since the design does not always allow for the creation of serious loads on the foundation during operation.

Most often used in panel houses. With their help, a durable one is created. The height differences that this design allows you to hide range from 20 to 40 mm. Installation of the screed is very simple and convenient. Does not require special knowledge or serious experience requirements. In this case, it is very important to arrange a waterproofing layer, after which the screed is poured.

It is worth paying attention to the new popular technique that this technology for installing screeds in a panel house is very fast and requires the use of special equipment. Its cost is high, for this reason it is best to use a contract. Only with technology will the maximum result in surface quality and strength be achieved. , compared to , is reduced by about 2-3 times.

Preparatory activities

It is worth paying special attention to, since it is especially popular among those living in panel houses. To begin with, you should carry out a number of preparatory measures, which include not only cleaning the base from debris and dirt, removing dust using construction vacuum cleaner, but also the installation of a waterproofing layer. Polyethylene film can be used as it. If there are large mortar protrusions between the floor slabs, they should be cut off if possible in order to reduce the subsequent thickness of the entire mortar. Mounting loops must be cut.

When the preparation is completed, you should carry out high-quality markings on the base, noting the zero level and the level of filling of the future screed. All measurements should be made carefully and accurately, since the evenness, as well as the thickness of the mortar, will depend on them. In this situation, it is worth paying attention to the fact that not every panel house will be able to create a large load on the floor. Especially when it comes to old buildings. Before starting work, you should clear everything to the ground and, if possible, assess the condition.

Soundproofing

The main problem for a panel house is large number noise from neighbors. When installing a floor screed, you should think about this and arrange additionally, allowing you to reduce the level of noise entering the apartment through various sources.

Before leveling panel floors, you should think about high-quality sound insulation. In its quality, various components and materials can be used, which are presented in the assortment on the construction market. This can be a mineral wool board with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. They will have a different density per cubic meter.

Additionally, it can be arranged from existing communications. If floating floors are installed, the Schumanet-100C type is usually used. It is done in two layers with different sides from a water pipe or other pipe. When installing self-leveling floors in an apartment, we must not forget one of the layers, which is provided by the technology for obtaining a level floor for a panel house. But it is worth deciding when it is possible, what conditions must be met and presented.

We must not forget about the waterproofing layer on top of the sound insulation. In addition, it is worth noting that in addition to heating pipes, additional soundproofing materials must be laid on the ceiling. Here excellent option There will be a type “Shumostop-S2”.

Floor leveling layers

If you do not deviate from the recommendations of the manufacturer and specialists who have extensive experience in this field, then in the end everything will turn out well. Virtually no noise will come from the floors below. But even the slightest inaccuracies and errors will lead to the manifestation of sounds.

Installation of beacons

When making a cement-sand screed to level the subfloor, you should think about the location. Initially, you should choose their specific option, which will play perfectly different function depending on various conditions. Before learning about the best way to make a screed in an apartment, beacons are purchased and installed.

The location of the beacons should be such that the rule can easily pass through them when leveling the solution. This suggests that beacons should be installed at a distance from each other in rows less than the length, usually about 15-20 cm. In addition, they should be located at a distance of 30 cm from the walls in the room and strictly level. It is on the quality of this stage that the filling of the floor with sand and cement mixture will depend. Everything will come from the beacons. If the requirements are followed, the floor screed in a panel house will be of high quality. In any case, you should pay attention to the thickness, which should not exceed the permissible limits. Under certain circumstances, it is generally possible to use expanded clay or its analogues to reduce total mass future screed.

Pouring process

How the floor is screeded in an apartment depends on your financial situation. Materials exist huge amount.
You can prepare the solution for filling the floor in parts yourself or purchase ready-made mixtures with all the necessary components, to which you only need to add a certain amount water.

But many people have a question about whether it is possible to fill the floor in parts. This can be done, but it is best to distribute the solution throughout the entire room in one go. When starting work, it would be a good idea to first moisten the surface of the solution in contact with the subsequent pouring or treat it with means to increase the level of adhesion. In this case, the setting will be better, and therefore, the strength will be necessary.

The flooring pattern will depend on the specific option, as well as the experience available. In any case and at any time, you can invite specialists until everything is ruined. They will be able to bring everything to its logical conclusion.

What to do after screeding the floor in an apartment? Here all that remains is to wait for the solution to dry completely. But during the process, measures should be taken to ensure that it dries evenly without errors. To do this, the surface is covered with plastic film and pre-wetted for several days. It is very important to create the same temperature and humidity conditions in the room until it dries completely. Drafts or low temperatures are not allowed. Even high temperatures can only lead to premature drying of the screed and incomplete setting of the mortar mass.

All this suggests that it is not enough to simply fill the screed. It is important to monitor its maturation very closely. After a few days, you can walk on the surface, but it is forbidden to create loads and exert mechanical influence. All subsequent work, including flooring in a panel house, can be carried out only after the solution has completely dried. For cement-sand screed, this period is usually up to 1 month. It all depends on the components and the mixture used in the work.

Laying dry screed

You can’t ignore and, which is most often performed by Knauf technologies. There are no difficulties in the installation process, the main thing is the sequence of all actions. After the preparatory measures and the creation of a waterproofing layer on the surface, you can backfill the bulk material. It can be absolutely any component intended for these purposes. Expanded clay is most often used.

After backfilling, special slabs should be laid, which may also differ from each other in components. The slabs are often based on gypsum, which has the necessary functions and properties.

To connect the plates to each other and fasten them to the base, special construction adhesive is used. Self-tapping screws can remain on the surface if the technology is not followed, which will be immediately noticeable when. Glue does not create such negative qualities. The surface becomes perfectly smooth.

This method of installing floors in panel houses reduces the time required to complete the work before laying the flooring or other finishing touches. Leveling the floor is done very quickly and does not create any special problems for beginners.

There should be no questions about whether it is possible in a panel house. This is simply necessary if you want to create a flat surface and subsequently perform high-quality flooring. But at the same time, you must adhere to the requirements, the main of which are the thickness of the screed and the load created on the floor.

It is very important to properly prepare the foundation before starting work. The final result will depend on this. If you move away from the technology of creating a flat surface, regardless of the chosen screed option, the consequences will not be long in coming.
You will have to dismantle the covering again and disassemble the screed.

The foundation before pouring the screed will increase the degree of adhesion of the solution. The number of layers will depend on the levelness of the floor in the room. Subsequent layers can only be applied when the previous one has dried. Before application, you should get rid of existing cracks, potholes and other damage to the base.

The level of the screed will allow you to determine the hydraulic level. From " zero level"and all other measurements and calculations of markings in the room take place. The process is very responsible, like any other in the technology used.

If there are even small doubts about the quality of work, on our own, it is best to seek help from construction crews. For a certain amount, depending on the volume and type of work, they will create a truly flat floor in a panel house.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
• supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, application modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), such floors are made comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A ground floor is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for regulatory burden floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

• thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
• reduce gear impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, and at a low level groundwater– sandy loams and loams. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Do not place large crushed stones, broken bricks, or pieces of concrete into the cushion. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the fill soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, from crushing, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective layer of concrete of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber 50-80 long mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material are laid on mastic bitumen based with placing each layer on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for insulating floors on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
6. On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . For more thorough surface leveling concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer cm.
8. On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. Based on it, various design options are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the sticker roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

A profiled membrane is a fabric made of high-density polyethylene (HDP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or truncated cone-shaped) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands the movement of workers and transportation machines without ruptures concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand bed with the spikes facing down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is made of expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

A durable, warm and low water absorption base will be a floor base made of large-porous, sand-free expanded clay concrete.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In ground floors, instead of a concrete screed as the top load-bearing layer, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnished parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that general indicator resistance to heat transfer in the floor-soil-basement area must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

This minimum requirements to insulate the floor on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is necessary only in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Thermal absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption rate of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Plates from mineral wool Be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There is another structural floor scheme - this wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

When you start building a house, the question of flooring arises first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and therefore the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private home can be installed in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• Wooden flooring has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
• Concrete coatings are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
• Loose or floating floors were not so popular among home owners in the past, but recently many are increasingly turning to this option, as it is easy to install and can be done in just one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, the area on which it should be placed, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even the financial capabilities of the homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm and pleasant to walk on, each of its types requires insulation, so it is necessarily included in the general improvement plan.

Wooden floors can be made in different ways, but they are always secured to logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Pole-supported floors

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for strength general coverage. A log system installed only on support pillars is called “floating”.

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors using this system are arranged as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected; the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug holes, then filled with water and thoroughly compacted. The better the bottom is compacted, the more reliable the support for the joist system will be, so this process must be carried out conscientiously.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on the compacted cushion, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their cross-sectional size should be at least 40×40, and preferably 50×50 cm. The erected pillars are checked for level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
4. On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, onto which the floor beams will subsequently be attached.
5. It should be noted that if the building or room has a small area, then support pillars can only be installed along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case it is necessary to lay massive beams on them.
6. After the pillars are ready, they top part waterproofing material is laid. It is better if it is three or four layers of roofing material.
7. Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting pins will pass.
8. Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled using wooden boards. When the base of the floor is laid, it is better to fix the pads to the bars using nails, and the beams themselves also need to be secured by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs have excess height, it is cut off with a grinder.
9. It is best to pour expanded clay onto the surface of the underground in a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well retain moisture that can come from the ground and additionally insulate the floors.
10. In order for the floor installed in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this embodiment all the conditions have been created for this. If you plan to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving between it and wood covering distance no more than ten centimeters.

Subfloor

The subfloor can be constructed in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the bottom cut of the beams. The cracks between the boards are coated with clay diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay has dried, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams using a stapler and staples.

• Then logs measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a visual example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

A wooden floor is also installed on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

• The soil in the underground must be compacted well, and a cushion of sand, gravel or medium-fraction crushed stone, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, placed on top of it, and then compacted again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the compacted cushion. If desired, you can lay reinforcement mesh under it for greater strength. Waterproofing should extend to the walls at least 10 centimeters.
• For waterproofing, lay bricks or concrete blocks, which will subsequently become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard insulation width).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - this can be 50÷100 mm polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
• Install on bricks, or better yet, on concrete blocks wooden beams, level them and secure them with a corner.
• Between laid beams, for more insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• Insulation on top, cash yeah attach a vapor barrier film.
• Then lay the floorboard, which is secured with nails carefully driven into its side.
• The board is laid at a distance one - one and a half centimeters from the wall to ensure ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot skimp on joists - they must be quite massive, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be immediately noted that with such a floor arrangement it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the joists is made on the concrete surface. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. Marking is done by marking a line with color.
• Next, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located at approximately the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• Holes are drilled in the beams themselves at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs built into the surface of the concrete, after which the beam is placed on the studs.
• Then, using a level, tighten the clamps in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to an ideal horizontal level, controlling it with a level.
• The nuts are tightened on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the installation of the subfloor, insulation and laying of the finished floor.

Fastening the joists directly to the screed

Place joists on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself if you have the right tools.

• Strips are struck on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further using anchorage The logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the beams can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be a good idea to lay thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be secured to the joists using staples.
• All over the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, they are laid on the covered polyethylene. insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

• The top of the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can be laid on top.

Concrete floor

Concrete floors are also installed in different ways, but in general they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete coating is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and begin its construction after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is removed to place a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters deep. It needs to be compacted well by pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, a rough screed is arranged. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam chips to the solution. In addition, in this case the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished hardened rough screed you need to spread waterproofing, which should extend 15-20 centimeters onto the walls. For it, you can take roofing felt or ordinary thick polyethylene film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

• Insulation - expanded clay - is poured onto the waterproofing, or high-density extruded polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the house owner and depending on the climatic conditions region where the house was built.
• A metal sheet is installed on top of the insulation reinforcement mesh and then poured finishing screed, into which you can also add insulating material. To ensure that the screed is level and there are no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to those exhibited according to the construction beacon level.

• If desired, such a coating can be made additional insulation. You can lay wooden floors on the finished screed, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a “warm floor” system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated about installing floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in recent years it has been used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is high-quality, homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only convenient to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If the bulk material is well distributed over the area of ​​the room, it almost does not shrink, so if the work is done conscientiously, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling the bulk mixture

• To ensure that the floors keep their shape and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads made of boards are installed.
• Plates made of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid on top of the dry screed. The most important thing is to set the first slab perfectly level - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but should be moved very carefully along the surface. The evenness of laying sheets during all work is controlled using a level.
in areas that are subject to the greatest load, for example, in aisles.
• On gypsum fiber the sheets have folds with which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
• The sheets are laid with an offset of half a sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for flooring gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer so that they fit tightly together and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with the bottom with using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They must be twisted under load - to do this, just stand on top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with waterproofing material, for example, sealant.
• If such floors are installed in a room where there is high humidity, the entire surface of the floor, before installation decorative covering treated with coating waterproofing.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed can be installed quite easily if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate– in terms of time for completing work, such a technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

Floors on concrete slabs can withstand high loads. For this reason, they most often become part of the structures of multi-story buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make some adjustments to the floor installation process.

What should you consider when working with a concrete base?

1. Surface roughness;
2. Gaps between plates;
3. Fairly cool temperature.

Diagram of a concrete screed with insulation

The installation of a floor on a slab suggests the presence of several options. The simplest one is pouring screed. You can make it in several ways:

• Mix sand and cement (with the addition of water);
• By preparing a special mixture.

The old method is no longer very relevant today. Where better than the second one option. Of course, purchasing a dry mixture will cost a little more, but the result of its use will be much better. The fact is that manufacturers put on the market improved formulations, which include plasticizers, polymers and other components that improve product quality.

Installation process

First of all, you need to inspect the slab for defects in order to know which places you will have to pay more attention to when pouring the mortar. Afterwards, a primer is applied to it (with a roller or brush).

Important! It is best to use a deep penetration primer. When the surface is dry, you should move on to the screed. The layer should not be very thick. Its task is to hide defects and slightly level the surface. In about a day, the screed will dry out and it can be covered with film. Polyethylene will play the role of a vapor and water insulator. The film should cover not only the floor, but also at least 15 centimeters of the wall.

Afterwards, they are displayed throughout the area metal profiles or wooden slats. So called beacons are installed in one horizontal plane.

How to install a beacon?

Installation of beacons from aluminum profile by level

1. In the corner of the room, near the stove itself, install a laser level. When the light rays mark a contour on the walls, make sure that they exactly repeat the floor level along which the finishing will need to be done.
2. Beacons must be installed over the entire area (along the contour) at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule that will be used to level the screed. First, strong threads are stretched from opposite walls. They are attached to self-tapping screws. Beacons are fixed using gypsum or screed mortar.

Final stages

An example of pouring a screed and leveling the mortar along the beacons

Having installed the beacons, you can proceed to laying the insulation. There are no restrictions in the choice of material, but expanded clay will be the most optimal. It does not need to be protected with film, unlike porous insulation. Then it’s the turn of the main screed. It must be dense and also have a thickness that can withstand heavy loads (5-15 cm).

Important! To make a level floor, you need to use a rule. It should be placed on the beacons and pulled towards you. As a result, the excess solution will be drawn towards the wall and fill the unevenness.

The floor will dry in a few days. Then it will be possible to remove the beacons and fill the gaps. Finishing is recommended only on a completely dry surface.

Making a plank floor

Wooden flooring is still the most popular in private homes. Its installation is not particularly difficult. The device must begin with the elimination of base defects. The usual cement-based mortar will do. It is used to seal cracks, chips, and seams between slabs.

Then, using a laser level, a contour is determined along which the finishing surface is ultimately set, and it’s time to create general design.

Main works

Installation of wooden joists for plank floors

The floor is covered with waterproofing material as indicated at the beginning. Then the logs are installed. They are installed in the same horizontal plane.

Important! The logs are fixed perpendicular to the boards, and the boards are fixed perpendicular to the wall with the window.

There are several options:

1. Using long self-tapping screws, the joists are cut through and fixed to the floor. The holes in the slab are made in advance. Plastic dowels must be inserted into them.
2. Along the edges of the logs you can install supports made from wooden slats or pieces of logs. The supports are attached to the floor, the logs are laid between them.
3. Modern way– installation of logs on lifting devices.

Final stages

Layout of a plank floor with insulation

After installing and securing the logs, you should start insulating the floor. The insulation is laid in the space between the joists. The type of material used is not important, its thickness is important. During the device wooden floors The main thing is not to forget to leave a gap between the clean coating and the insulation. It will become ventilation, which will remove excess moisture and increase the service life of the coating and thermal insulation materials.

Now all that remains is to cover the surface with polyethylene and move on to the final step - laying the boards.

Water floor installation

Before moving on to installing warm water floors, you need to deal with their thermal insulation. For this case, foil insulation is best suited. It is covered with reinforcing mesh. Afterwards you can lay out the pipes for water heating. They are fixed to the mesh with plastic clamps.

Important! For greater reliability, a reinforcing mesh is also laid over the structure.

For protection expansion joints Pipes are laid out along the walls (corrugated ones are suitable). You can proceed to pouring concrete after hydraulic tests. The water system is checked for faults throughout the day. All detected problems are promptly corrected.

Diagram of a screed with water heated floor

To make the final screed of a warm water floor, you need to use a cement mortar. The thickness of the layer should be within 5-15 cm. In a day or two it will dry, after which you can proceed to the direct use of the heated floor. The temperature should be increased gradually.

This method of installing warm water floors is relevant not only if the base is a floor slab, but also a concrete floor on the ground. A water floor is perfect for both home and apartment. It is warm, durable, and protects against moisture and mold.

Laying self-leveling floors

To make a self-leveling floor the main coating, you need to start with a base primer. Epoxy or polyurethane primer is applied in two layers (from only one mixture). The front layer is applied exclusively to the decorated coating. Photo printing looks especially impressive on the surface. It is made on a special film, and a transparent self-leveling floor is laid on top.

Laying technology

The process of installing self-leveling floors begins with a standard procedure - cleaning the surface from dust and dirt. Next, a primer is applied. After it dries, along the vertical surfaces that will come into contact with the self-leveling floor, damper tape is glued around the perimeter. It protects the self-leveling base from cracking.

Then it’s time to apply the self-leveling floor solution. It must be done strictly following the instructions, using an electric mixer at low speed.

Laying a self-leveling floor on a concrete base

Important! To obtain a homogeneous composition, you need to stir the mixture according to the principle: stir and stop. The duration of action-inaction should be the same and not exceed 5 minutes.

The prepared solution is poured onto the surface and spread with a roller or spatula, and air bubbles are removed with a needle roller. The thickness of the fill should be at least 3 cm. Now you need to wait for the coating to harden.

Important! Direct sunlight and drafts have a negative effect on uncured material.

The time it takes for the surface to completely dry is also affected by its thickness. The curing time is indicated on the packaging of the dry mixture. As a rule, work on laying ceramic tiles begins after three days, and installation of parquet – after a week.

The role of OSB in floor construction

Laying OSB or plywood to level the floor

OSB or OSB is used to achieve one or all of 3 objectives:

1. To level the floor and hide defects.
2. To ensure good sound insulation. The multilayer structure successfully absorbs noise.
3. To insulate the floor and make high-quality waterproofing. The natural-based material is characterized by increased moisture resistance and excellent heat retention.

Features of the use of the material

OSB (OSB) is not always attached to the floor. If the concrete base has large differences in height or significant unevenness, the slabs are fixed on wooden beams. The latter successfully act as lags.

Important! Maximum resistance to deformation is provided by OSB (OSB) boards with a thickness of 10 mm. They are laid in two layers (offset). The parts of the material are fastened using glue or spiral nails.

OSB (OSB) is laid on a relatively flat surface without using lag. The thickness of one slab is often enough to level the surface. It is fixed with OSB (OSB) using dowels or self-tapping screws.

The material is highly moisture resistant, but still absorbs a small amount of moisture. Because of this, it expands a little. Compression-expansion can be compensated by leaving gaps (up to 3 mm) between the OSB (OSB) boards.

After laying the material, finishing work can begin. Although, it is not necessary to use tiles, laminate or linoleum. OSB (OSB) material itself is considered a representative warm covering for the home. It just needs to be cleaned and covered with several layers of varnish.

Important! When planning the installation of rolled material, create a smooth transition at the joints of the slabs. To ensure this, you need to use OSB (OSB) of minimum thickness. The gaps from the wall are treated with sealant.

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Floor installation using floor slabs

At first glance, the construction of a floor on a concrete base does not represent anything complicated.

However, for the correct installation technology, it is necessary to take into account many factors that in one way or another can affect its service life.

This is a multi-layered structural element of a house, subject to numerous loads and influences from the external environment, so the design of work must be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Technological requirements

The correct installation of the floor on a concrete slab is carried out in accordance with construction requirements and standards. They characterize the design features of all elements.

In addition, they must comply standard requirements, characteristic for this situation: to be durable, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant.

When making a floor for a living space, you need to think about heat and sound insulation in advance. If we talk about standard technological requirements, we can identify a number of norms characteristic of this situation.

CharacteristicsName, technical specificationsBrief description

GOST 31358 - 2007	Dry cement-based construction floor mixture	Properties and composition of cement mixture. Use for floor
GOST 10178 - 85	Cement	Technical features and requirements for the material used for the screed
GOST 25328 - 82	Cement for mortar	Regulatory data regarding the composition and characteristics of the mixture
GOST 24640 - 91	Additive for cement	Type and method of use of the additive used for filling floors
GOST 7473 - 94	Concrete mix	Compositions, manufacturing technology and use of concrete-based mixtures
SNiP 2.03.01-84	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure	Installation of reinforced concrete structures, floor screeds with reinforcement
SNiP 3.02.01-87	Earthwork base and foundation	Subfloor installation process
SP 52 – 101 - 2003	Concrete and reinforced concrete structures without prestressing reinforcement	Concrete reinforcement process
SNiP 2.03.13-88	Floors	Floor design, installation requirements

Design, material selection and installation must be carried out based on the requirements presented in these documents. Compliance with the standards will allow you to create a surface that will meet all established parameters.

Among other things, it will have the following characteristics:

1. A smooth and durable base will be created, convenient and practical for the safe movement of people.
2. It will be of high quality, wear-resistant, durable.
3. According to sanitary and epidemiological standards, a foundation will be created that is harmless to humans and provides good conditions for accommodation.
4. The operational standard characterizes ease of maintenance and possible repair.

All documents were developed by specialists and engineers, so it is not recommended to neglect them.

Classification

Floors consisting of screed, insulation and floor covering are called separate

A complete analysis of the element allows us to identify several categories of floors, divided by purpose. These are industrial buildings, residential buildings, public institutions and livestock buildings.

There are several more distinguishing features, first of all, division by type: monolithic, roll and piece. Analysis of the installation site is divided depending on the location: above a heated room, floor construction on the ground, along the interfloor ceiling.

Regarding sanitary standards, there are 3 types of floor installation:

• single-layer, made of material that complies with GOST for heat loss and sound transmission;
• separate structure, made of a separate layer of sound insulation, screed and finishing coating;
• hollow, made along logs (cuts) with heat and sound insulation laid between them.

You can understand how to make a good floor while meeting numerous requirements only after fully familiarizing yourself with the standards.

Characteristics of a concrete base

When faced with the question of which floor is better, many come to the conclusion that a concrete base is one of the most unpretentious.

It is superior to wood for many reasons, the main one of which is its immunity to the formation of decay processes.

In addition, concrete will not creak over time and has a fairly durable surface that is practically resistant to mechanical stress.

Moisture resistance indicators compared to wood are also excellent. However, it should be borne in mind that some of the disadvantages of a wooden floor can be eliminated by using modern technologies.

You should not extol the concrete surface and forget about its disadvantages. You can get rid of a constantly cold floor only after installing an additional source of heating (warm floor). Based on this, the best option would be to lay tiles directly on concrete in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. For residential premises and living rooms, it is recommended to use other materials with inherent warmth and comfort.

Laying a wooden floor

The boards can be glued to concrete or laid on wooden joists

To lay wood on a concrete base, you can use one of 3 methods.

Each of them is rationally different from the previous one, which allows us to talk about different advantages and disadvantages.

The methods are as follows:

• the boards are glued to the concrete base;
• laid on wooden logs;
• laid on plywood sheets.

All methods of installing a floor on a concrete slab have one thing in common - surface preparation is carried out identically, regardless of further actions.

The screed must be thoroughly dried and leveled.

Convex areas can be removed by grinding with a grinder, depressions can be filled with a self-leveling mixture.

After this, it is recommended to prepare the base for laying communications running under the floor. These could be elements of heated floors, sewerage pipelines, water supply, electrical, television or Internet cables.

The cuts can be made with a grinder

When processing a room with an area of ​​more than 50 m2, it is advisable to make seams that limit the deformation of the slab. In this case, using a grinder with a diamond wheel, several cuts are made. Only after this is it possible to coat the base with a primer.

The antiseptic will act as a waterproofing agent and protect the base from the formation of mold or fungal growths on wooden elements. The most optimal impregnation option is a one-component primer mixture. After making sure that the concrete is completely dry, you can begin laying the floor.

The humidity of the base slab should be no more than 4%.

Gluing

Glue the wide board with polyurethane compound

Bonded floor construction is considered the most common method of installing wood on concrete subfloors. For this, various types of compositions are used, differing depending on the type of board.

The wide massive one is glued using a modified elastic one-component polyurethane adhesive. Narrow massive or engineering board fixed with a two-component polyurethane composition.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Boards are cut to the required size.
2. The adhesive composition is applied from the far corner of the room to the near one, distribution over the surface is carried out using a notched trowel.
3. 3 - 4 boards are placed on this area and firmly fixed. At the same time, you should press them tightly against each other; this can be done with a tightening belt or wedges.
4. After checking the laid row, the procedure is performed in the previously described manner. For more information on how to glue finishing material to the floor, watch this video:

The distance between the end board and the wall should be at least 10 - 15 mm.

Laying on joists

The logs should be no thinner than 2 cm

This device involves installing boards on wooden logs, firmly fixed to a concrete base. This method can only be used if their thickness is more than 20 mm. Otherwise, they will sag under load.

It is allowed to distribute the timber on the surface according to the approved parameters, depending on the thickness of the board. To independently determine this value, you can use the table below as a guide.

The cross-section of the logs does not play a role in this situation, since they are installed on a solid surface.

The boards are fixed with self-tapping screws

Only after all calculations have been completed and the material has been purchased and cut according to the right size, you can begin self-installation.

At the same time, do not forget to process everything wooden elements construction with an antiseptic that protects it from moisture and fungus.

The order of work is to perform the following actions:

The peculiarity of the design is its higher cost and the ability to place thermal insulation under the floor and hide communications there.

On plywood

It is recommended to lay plywood diagonally

To lay a wooden floor on a concrete slab, sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 16–20 mm are used.

The material must be moisture resistant. The purchased slabs are cut into small strips 50–80 cm wide.

Laying is carried out in a diagonal direction to the location of the coating. The gaps between them should not exceed 3 mm. The strips are glued with glue or fixed to dowels and nails. After installation, the surface is thoroughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

It is important that the plywood is not too thin

The advantage of this method is the ability to level a surface that has height differences of up to 1 cm. The method of laying on plywood is considered the simplest and most inexpensive.

However, when performing installation, you need to take into account several features. First of all, this is the thickness of the sheets, which must correspond to the size of the boards being laid down. In addition, mandatory primer treatment and thorough cleaning.

The advantage over the method using logs is that the height of the ceilings of the room practically does not change.

Sometimes there are opinions from uninformed people that installing a floor on a concrete slab is a rather complicated, expensive and troublesome task. In fact, this is far from the case.

Wide selection of modern construction and finishing materials allows you to solve this problem in a short period of time. At the same time, the coating will be quite warm and durable, although it will be located on a cold concrete slab. To learn how to properly install plywood sheets on joists, watch this video:

The only thing that is required of you in this situation is strict compliance technological requirements and standards associated with various characteristic properties of building materials used to perform work.

gurupola.ru

Laying a floor on a concrete slab - the best technologies and manufacturing methods

From the author: Greetings, dear reader! We all sooner or later face renovations in the hope of making our home the most comfortable and beautiful, because the house is our fortress. This is a place where we can be alone with ourselves and where we feel protected. As soon as we start thinking about repairs, we begin to look at the prices of materials and services, and literally immediately we understand that we cannot save much on materials, but we can refuse the services of builders by doing the repairs ourselves. One of the upcoming operations is laying floors, and it is vital for you to know the structure of the floor on a concrete slab, otherwise problems with repairs will definitely not be avoided.

Types of floors and their designs

First, let's figure out what technologies for making concrete floors are generally available, since not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment or house. Some of them may not meet your needs or damage your budget. So, the following types of flooring technologies are distinguished:

• on concrete slabs;
• on the ground;
• wooden on concrete slabs;
• concrete with wooden base;
• concrete for industrial buildings;
• made of fiber-reinforced concrete;
• warm (if you want to know how to make it, look here).

Now you will understand which one is needed for what, how it is made, and what its advantages and disadvantages are.

Floors on concrete slabs

This type of flooring is the most common, since most city residents live in apartments, and all floors apartment buildings are made exclusively using reinforced concrete slabs. They can be used to make any floor, be it wooden or warm, floating or with the laying of inexpensive linoleum.

Floor slabs are a universal base - they are strong, capable of withstanding enormous loads and can be used for many years in the harshest conditions, without losing their strength properties. But no matter what kind of coating we lay, it is worth remembering the necessary sequence of actions in laying the various layers. In any case, the production of wooden floors on concrete floors is as follows:

1. Substrate preparation, cleaning or screeding.
2. Marking the installation of logs and applying special glue to the surface.
3. Laying the logs strictly horizontally, using a hydraulic level or a regular level.
4. Laying a waterproofing layer on top of the lag.
5. Laying insulation between joists.
6. Placement of the rough layer, be it a board, plywood or chipboard.
7. Vapor barrier layer.
8. Substrate.
9. Finish coating, laminate or parquet, or boards.

Making a concrete base takes much less time than a wooden one, but its properties are completely different. Such floors have extremely high strength compared to any other type of floor and are not subject to destruction and aging. This floor is static, its thermal expansion is so slow and insignificant that any finishing coating on it does not experience any deformation loads and can serve for a very long time. When properly installed, it serves as an excellent barrier to heat loss, and in the event of an emergency, such as a flood, it will not allow water to penetrate to the neighbors.

The disadvantages include the following. Low heat capacity, i.e. poor ability to retain heat - therefore such a floor is without finishing coating will almost always be cold, unless it is made using heated floor technology. It's very heavy. It puts a serious load on load-bearing structures and foundations, so if this is a private house, and even with floating soil, you should refrain from using such a floor.

Now let's look at the sequence of work. It consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Primer with deep penetration compounds.
3. Laying roll waterproofing or applying liquid compounds with the same properties.
4. Installation of a reinforcing cage, or the use of basalt fiber. In the case of reinforcement with cellular layers, we tie or weld them and lay them on pieces of brick so as to move them away from the surface (so that when pouring the screed, the mesh is in the middle).
5. Installation of beacons. They are laid on a solid strip of cement mortar with a small addition of alabaster - this “slide” is laid on top of the reinforcing cage, but so as not to catch it.
6. Preparation of a solution using plasticizers or several caps of shampoo.
7. Pouring the mortar, pulling the screed.
8. Laying vapor barrier, underlayment and finishing coating.

Floors on the ground

This coating is typical for newly erected buildings. The floor on the ground must meet many criteria - after all, it is the main barrier from the earth, which constantly strives to destroy it, saturate it with moisture and take away heat.

To prevent the harmful effects of these factors, multi-layer laying technology is used. Work on the ground is performed as follows and in this order:

1. If we have soft soil at the base, cut off the top layer, about 20–30 cm.
2. The resulting layer of earth is compacted with a special metal block or press.
3. We lay a cushion of sand mixed with crushed stone on the compacted earth. The layer should be about 10–15 cm.
4. We lay a damper tape made of foamed polyurethane.
5. Next, fill in a rough layer of screed, possibly without reinforcement or beacons. Fill with a layer of approximately 5–15 cm.
6. We lay a layer of polyethylene or roofing felt for waterproofing.
7. Then we lay a layer of insulating material. It is best to use polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
8. We lay the reinforcing mesh on the brick islands to create a gap and place the reinforcement in the middle of the screed layer.
9. We install beacons.
10. We lay the damper tape.
11. Fill in the finishing layer of screed.
12. We lay a vapor barrier, underlayment and any finishing coating.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a floor with your own hands, and you can do it all yourself in a short period of time. All that will stop you is the drying time of the layers.

Source: http://mrpol.su

Firstly, the ground on which the pillow will be laid must be dry. If it is wet, wait until it dries or dry it using specialized diesel infrared guns that will effectively cope with this task.

The rough layer of the screed must dry completely - on average, this takes 20–25 days, and in climates with high humidity - 28–30 days. The finishing layer of the screed should be thinner, no more than 5 cm. It also dries in 20–25 days.

In order for this layer to turn out to be of high quality, it must be covered with film immediately after pouring. To dry evenly, it is moistened generously twice in 24 hours, and then covered with plastic wrap for 3-4 days to evenly distribute moisture. Then remove the film and leave for 20–25 days to dry completely.

This method is effectively used for making floors in a private house, since usually only there is the need to pour the screed onto the ground. This concludes our discussion of making a ground screed with our own hands, and now let’s move on to the next type.

Floors with basalt fiber

New on the building materials market. It appeared not so long ago, about seven years ago, but it never gained much popularity. Basalt fiber is an extremely strong fiber with amazing tear resistance properties. It is a fiber, most often white, only 5–7 cm in length, which is supplied in bags.

The manufacturing technology of concrete screed with basalt fiber is as follows. Exactly the same operations are performed as when pouring a regular screed, but with one fundamental difference. We do not put reinforcing cages and rods into the base, but instead add basalt fibers directly to the solution, in the proportion indicated on the packaging, and mix. After hardening, the fibers bind the entire fabric with thousands of threads, which give the structure incredible strength and flexibility.

This method is rarely used in home construction, but almost all industrial facilities are built this way. In cases where support beams or stiffening ribs are erected, the methods are combined, i.e., both reinforcement and basalt are used to obtain heavy-duty structures.

Wooden subfloors

To understand what it takes to make concrete floors on a wooden base, watch this video very carefully. Or you will definitely achieve the destruction of the entire structure. No, we are not scaring you, we are just trying to warn you.

The fact is that wood and metal are materials with completely different natures, structures and properties. A tree is never static, it is always moving. Its dynamics are determined by humidity, temperature, and degree of drying. It is prohibited to pour screed onto a tree at all if the tree is fresh - only after a 3-year period!

When exposed to the same temperature, these materials expand differently, so they need to be combined so that they are completely independent of each other. For this, ordinary plastic film is used - concrete does not stick to it at all and seems to slide while the wood moves.

The entire process should be performed in the following sequence:

1. We remove the boardwalk and inspect all the joists in order to remove damaged and rotten ones, otherwise the wooden floor may not withstand the load. A slab of concrete 5 cm thick and 1 m2 in area weighs about 300 kg.
2. We restore the flooring and treat the wood with an antiseptic and primer.
3. We lay down plastic film.
4. We lay reinforcement or use fiber-reinforced concrete.
5. We lay the damper tape.
6. We place beacons.
7. Fill the screed.

As a result, we get two coatings that exist completely separately from each other. This design rarely used in practice, but sometimes extremely necessary. No matter how complex it may be, it has all the properties of a full-fledged concrete base and the thermal characteristics of a wooden floor.

Floors in industrial buildings

If there is a need to produce specific floors with increased strength and improved performance, then you need to know about making floors in an industrial building.

This coating is poured in the same way as all screeds. We use waterproofing, damper tape, reinforcement, basalt fiber. But there are a few critical differences. IN industrial buildings, depending on the purpose, either a simple screed or a screed with iron is made. Depending on the expected load, the layer thickness increases from 5 cm, as in civil buildings, to 20 cm for industrial facilities.

Reinforcement must be laid in two stages. The first is the lower reinforcement, the second is the upper. The floor is poured in such a way that the reinforcement cage is located 5 cm below, and 5 cm above the screed, because the coating can work not only in tension under heavy weight, but also in compression, and each of the reinforcement belts must absorb these forces.

And most importantly, any industrial screed should be made only using vibration machines. These are special installations that force the layer of mortar to become denser under the influence of vibration and fill all voids more thoroughly. In this way, excellent coating properties can be achieved.

Well, dear reader, now you have learned everything you can about what types of flooring devices there are and how to make them. There are, of course, specific schemes - for example, the production of concrete screed in a bathhouse, but they differ only in the presence of drains and drainage holes, and are made according to exactly the same principles as all the others. Now, with this information, you can easily arrange a floor for any purpose. Good luck and see you again!

seberemont.ru

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs

Quality device flooring on floor slabs implies comfortable living for people in the room.

Schematic diagram of a wood-chip floor.

Classification of floors is made by type of coating:

• planks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single-layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate voidless.

Required tool:

Scheme of the ceiling over the ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor construction

Mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made from several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on the floor slabs, and a hard floor covering is placed on it - piece parquet or parquet panels. For sound insulation, fiberboard slabs of grades 4, 12, 20 are used.

Single layer construction

This floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be linoleum on a bioresistant basis, which is not subject to rotting processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of separate hollow core covering

Diagram of a soundproofing floor.

First, a soundproofing layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the finished floor material is laid over them: parquet boards, tongue and groove boards or wooden panels. If the room has a continuous flooring made of unplaned boards, then fiberboard slabs are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow-core floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80*40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floor covering, the distance between the joists is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

Installation of a separate hollow-core floor

Scheme self-installation floorboard.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5, density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar; uneven areas must simply be sanded. A gap of 20-30 mm is made between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room along the perimeter, which is filled with soundproofing material and subsequently covered with a plinth.

External coating Such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard slabs or other materials. A layer is placed on top of the screed waterproofing material. It is laid overlapping or the joints are coated with bitumen mortar. Then lay a layer of sound insulation made of mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard boards up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor arrangement diagram.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet panels, piece parquet) a popular material for the construction of floors. The installation of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. Block parquet floors made in a herringbone pattern with or without friezes look good.

First, it is necessary to mark the rows of coverage so that there is less waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and the lighthouse “Christmas tree” is laid on it. Based on it, the floor covering is installed with careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. The caps are pressed deeper into the material using a hammer.

The installation of block parquet floors on screeds is made using a hot or cold bitumen solution in a “Christmas tree” pattern without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it using a special parquet planing machine or a hand plane; After sharpening, baseboards are installed, scraping and sanding of the floor are done. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Floor insulation diagram for the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for finishing floors. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to chemicals, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular among developers. Disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, the linoleum is first kept in a rolled-out state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to absorb even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the bases must be level, clean, dry and strong. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rod. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboard slabs, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, it is done sand-cement mortar composition 3:1, which is laid on a rigid and durable preparation in a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and smooth. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a composition of 1:2. Permissible base humidity is no more than 10%.

The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Floor sound insulation diagram.

They should be quite tough. The base boards should not sag. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well treated: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well sunk into the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by smoothing out the bulges, sealing the seams with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then lay linoleum.

Ceramic tile floors

For installing floors on floor slabs ceramic tiles First, they make a base - a monolithic screed made of cement with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3:1; 4:1), the installation of which is carried out over the waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to stick waterproofing on the flooring with hot bitumen mastic, then lay a reinforced mesh and put the mortar over it. To install the screed, you should use beacon wooden slats installed level along the walls of the room. Place the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse slats. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with solution.

Scheme of floor covering and insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Lay out the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, after which you should check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. Lighthouse tiles are laid according to the marks made on the clean floor. Then corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. The prepared mortar is used to seal and lay the first row of tiles. After laying the frieze rows, they begin laying the tiles of the main floor covering pattern. In order not to step on already laid tiles, they begin to be laid from the far wall.

The solution used should be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, you should slightly settle it with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the block placed on top. Checking the horizontality of laid tiles is carried out as a rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. Remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

http://youtu.be/wz6Z7lBcYRg

Installation of laminated parquet floors

A modern building material for covering floors on floor slabs is laminated parquet. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer that imitates wood. Dimensions of the planks: length – 1.2-1.7 m, width – up to 18 cm, thickness – from 6 to 14 mm. The laminate planks are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.