Platbands are a decorative element of a door structure that performs an aesthetic function. The purpose of these overhead strips is to create a frame that covers construction defects and gaps between the wall plane and the door frame. The installation of platbands on the door does not differ in particular technological complexity, but being the final decorative touch, it requires scrupulous accuracy and knowledge of the nuances of sawing and fastening from the performer.

Video demonstration of the installation of door trims

Types of platbands and methods of their fastening

For cashing the door frame, the owner of the bath can use molded wood, MDF or plastic. Carpenters advise to give preference to laminated or veneered MDF products or PVC trims, which practically do not react to the effects of steam and temperature fluctuations.

Mounting material and specifics:

• Wooden platbands can be installed on "liquid nails" or fastened with thin nails without heads. The hats can be cut off on their own or fastened with a construction pistol that “shoots” the pins without them. When using nails with caps, the fasteners are slightly "sunk", and the locations are masked with wax correcting pencils or matched acrylic sealants. The use of adhesives is permissible, but will create problems if it is necessary to dismantle it for laying a cable or for carrying out the next repair. Liquid nails are applicable only in the case of perfectly aligned walls, otherwise there will be gaps between the platband and the wall being trimmed.
• Platbands made of MDF outwardly practically cannot be distinguished from their wooden counterparts, but their fastening is carried out according to special rules. In order not to damage the strips, the guide holes for the nails are drilled on them in advance. The holes are not through, a diameter of 1-1.5 mm is preferred. MDF, just like wood, can be simply glued.
• Platbands made of plastic prefer to glue. Their cost allows you to dismantle the cash without regrets and the desire to reuse. Flexible plastic moldings can be glued to walls with slight irregularities.

The choice of the corner was washed down for joining

The angle is determined by the presence of a shaped relief on the front side. DIYers who are figuring out how to install door trims have two options at their disposal:

• Planks with a flat surface without a shaped shape can be sawn at right angles. Do the same if the door is framed by platbands with a capital. The docking direction can be either horizontal or vertical. Before installation, the saw cuts are painted or tinted with varnish.
• Embossed moldings, platbands with a rounded surface are sawn down at a standard 45º angle. This is the most common scheme that requires strict adherence to the rules and accuracy. The slightest flaws will result in unattractive crevices.

In order to perfectly cut the workpiece at an angle, you need to stock up on a miter box and a hand saw with fine teeth. A flawless edge will be obtained if the owner saws on a miter saw equipped with a turntable.

Features of telescopic platbands

Buyers of doors produced by a number of domestic factories are given the opportunity not to use fasteners at all when installing platbands with a patented telescopic design. Happy owners of Volkhovets or Sophia products will not need additional additions, since correction in case of vertical deviations and in case of discrepancy between the size of the box and the width of the opening is performed by adjusting the telescopic door frame.

Details of how the installation of doors with telescopic platbands is carried out, their owners will learn from the manufacturer's instructions, since each of them has their own technological schemes. A common feature for all is the presence of a protrusion-slot, which is introduced into the groove on the box. It is recommended to strengthen the joints with liquid nails.

Step-by-step technology of work - measurements and installation

It is recommended to start framing the doorway with platbands:

• after the completion of wallpaper pasting;
• when equipping doors with platbands on both sides after pasting two adjacent rooms;
• before installing the skirting board.

You need to start work from the side of the door structure into which the canvas opens. That is, from the side where the door hinges are located. The guideline for measurements will be the strip that closes the box from the side of the hinges, since because of them the platband is not installed flush with the box. This indent should be equal on all three lines. To fix the platbands on the back of the door, it is not necessary to indent.

So, the order of work:

• We measure with maximum accuracy the length of the vertical bar installed next to the hinges. The distance resulting from the indentation is added to the length. The point obtained as a result of measurements will be the beginning of the line along which the excess is sawn off from the workpiece at an angle of 45º.
• For the manufacture of the opposite platband, we make measurements in the same way, but separately. It is not a fact that the distance from the floor to the required point will be equal.
• We bait the sawn strips with two nails. We fix one of them at the base, the second about a meter later.
• Under the unfixed upper ends of the vertical platbands, we place the blank for the upper bar. We mark on it the points required for perfect sawing at a 45-degree angle, saw off with a miter saw or a simple power saw.
• We fix all three components.

The base of the door casings usually rests on the floor, but sometimes a kind of bedside table is placed under the door frame.

The step of installing the studs or nails is determined independently. Carpenters recommend hammering in galvanized or copper nails every 15 cm if the door slammer is actively using it. When used carefully, from an aesthetic point of view, the optimal pitch is 50 cm.

If the cutting angle is slightly violated, cracks will inevitably result in the joints. Those who have not managed to avoid this due to inexperience do not need to despair. Failures can be masked with a sealant. To do this, on both sides of the gap, you need to glue the usual mounting tape on the platbands. Preferably in several layers. Then fill the gap with an acrylic compound of a suitable tone.

We bring to your attention a quick way to accurately markup:

Correctly executed installation of interior door trims guarantees considerable savings. The entrance doors are cashed in the same way, however, the platbands are fixed mainly from the inside, since the outer frame is already on the box. The work is not difficult, but meticulous, and without knowing the nuances, you can spoil a lot of material. By the way, carpenters advise inexperienced home craftsmen who want to become more skilled in this direction, to start from the very overall opening, so that in case of failure, the slats can be framed with smaller doors. Well, and having gained practical experience, you can take on difficult tasks.

Platbands for doors are made of natural wood, laminated MDF or plastic. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages; a specific type of platbands should be selected taking into account the specific installation location, the general interior of the room and your own preferences. In terms of price, they differ slightly, but the difference is not so significant that it has a decisive influence during the selection.

There are several ways to attach the platband, depending on the angle of the connection.

Docking with end cutting at an angle of 45 °

The most common and most versatile way. Allows you to completely hide the places of cuts, looks beautiful.

Docking with cutting ends at an angle of 90 °

A very simple way, it has two options: the open ends of the undercut are located vertically or the visible ends of the undercut are located horizontally.

Docking with cutting ends at 90 °, extended horizontal platband with imitation of a lintel

It is rarely used and only for creating exclusive interiors.

Fixation of platbands can be carried out with special thin studs with a reduced head diameter or without it. Professionals work with a pneumatic pistol, but it's not worth buying for one bath. The length of the nails is within two centimeters.

The second way of fixing the platbands is with liquid glue. Both methods are equivalent from the point of view of builders, each can be used with the same quality of installation of platbands. A small advantage of using glue is that there are no visible fixation points at all. But the heads of the studs can also be drowned a little and painted over with the appropriate color with a construction marker.

Platband prices

platbands

Cutting platbands

It is better to cut moldings with a special electric miter saw. The saw table is installed at different angles, the cut is perfectly flat, chips and roughness are absent. Such a saw is relatively inexpensive, and during the construction of a bath it will always come in handy. If necessary, it can be detached from the metal table and used as a portable tool - very convenient at any construction site.

Electric miter saw - photo

Important. When trimming the platbands, check the serviceability of the tool.

The saw must be sharp and level, even the slightest beating of the bearings of the electric saw is excluded. Press the side edges of the molding tightly to the stubborn surfaces of fixtures or tools, the presence of even the slightest gaps will create big problems for you during installation.

No desire to acquire it? Then you should buy a factory miter box or make it yourself. The miter box allows trimming moldings at an angle of 90 °, 45 ° or 30 °.

You shouldn't buy a low-quality Chinese miter box. They make it from recycled polyethylene, and during cooling it shrinks a lot, the position of the thrust planes changes. We advise you to check the device before starting work. Saw off several workpieces in different positions, join them together with saws and check the corners.

Let's consider in more detail the methods of installing both plastic and wooden or MDF platbands.

Prices for a hacksaw for a miter box

hacksaw for miter box

Installation of wooden or MDF platbands with sawed ends at an angle of 45 °

Step 1. Preparation of the surface of the doorway and platbands

Using a construction knife, carefully cut off the protruding foam, do not damage the door frame during cutting. Particular care should be taken when working around the visible corners of a box covered with self-adhesive plastic wrap.

Check the position of the plane of the wall and box. Take a flat strip and check the position of the wall and frame around the entire perimeter of the doorway. If there are problems, you will have to solve them during the installation of the platbands. We will explain below how this is done. The ends of the lower part of the platbands must be cut - they could be damaged during transportation or long-term storage.

For one door you will need four long and two short frames. You need to saw off with a margin of 3 ÷ 4 centimeters in length.

Step 2. Mark the position of the platbands

The door frame has rounded corners, a right angle only from the side of the extension. We recommend placing the platbands in such a way that the rounding does not close. From the side of the extension, accordingly, the corners of the casing must exactly coincide with the corners of the extension.

The platband should not interfere with the opening and closing of the door

An important point! The platband should not interfere with the operation of the door hinges and the "otvetka" of the door lock. Attach the platbands to the door frame and use a thin pencil to make marks at the top of the box. They will be located 2 ÷ 3 millimeters above the corner of the door frame. These marks indicate the height of the long vertical platbands and the width of the short horizontal platband at the lower joint corners.

On the side of the add-on, we recommend placing the marks on the platbands 1 ÷ 2 millimeters below the corner, this will allow them to completely cover irregularities or damage to the surfaces of the add-ons. If the extensions are in good condition, then you can put the platbands flush with them.

We do the markup slowly

Step 3. Attach vertical platbands to the marks and make marks on them at a certain height

Step 4. Cut the vertical trims at a 45 ° angle

Do not give a high feed of the cutting tool, the cut should be as even and clean as possible. When cutting, take into account the kerf width, in some saws it can be up to three millimeters. Step back from the made mark by the kerf width.

Step 5. Start nailing the prepared platbands

First, two vertical, and then horizontal.

The heads of the studs can be drowned a little and sealed to match the color with acrylic sealant. The same sealant can be used to seal cracks around the entire perimeter of the installed platbands and door frames and in the corner upper places where the cuts meet.

Important. The use of a sealant to seal the cracks indicates the low qualifications of the performer. If you do not have enough experience, then it is better to practice a little with gash than to eliminate the marriage later. Nail the first platbands from the inconspicuous side of the doors, take a little practice.

Problems may arise due to the fault of the builders of the bath, consider some of them ways to eliminate it. Most often, the plane of the wall does not lie in line with the plane of the door frame. The door frame is either too recessed or, on the contrary, protrudes too much, or is generally made at a slope. In this regard, the platbands cannot fit snugly to the doorway, large gaps appear in the corners of the joint, regardless of the accuracy with which the cuts are made.

There are several ways to solve these rather unpleasant problems.

Wood sealant prices

wood sealant

Alignment of the platband plane with the wall

First way. The simplest, but, unfortunately, not always applicable. It can be used to correct the non-parallelism of the wall and box planes within 2 ÷ 3 millimeters. How it's done?

Step	Description
Step 1.	Place the platband on the intended place, press it firmly against the box. It will move a little from the plane of the wall, estimate the width of the gap between it and the wall. If it is within 2 ÷ 3 mm, then the gap at the joint is removed without the need for construction work.
Step 2.	Place a pad of the same thickness as the gap size on the saw or miter table. The lining should be narrow, not the entire width of the casing, only a few millimeters, it should only slightly raise one side of it during the gash.
Step 3.	Press the platband tightly to the work table in this position, the lower plane of the platband from the side of the stop should slightly rise above the table. Carefully cut off the end at the desired position. The end of the cut should have 45 ° to the axis and be with a slight slope towards the surface. Now, in the "broken" position, the joint of the two platbands in the places of the gash will be tight, you will not have to seal the cracks with acrylic sealant.

The second way. Due to violation of manufacturing technology, wooden platbands may have uneven surfaces or warpage. Of course, ideally, their quality should be checked at the time of purchase. If the marriage was found already in the process of installing the platbands, then the warpage is easily eliminated. Place the vertical and horizontal platbands so that the cuts lie flat. Drive a nail into the end, it will fix them in the correct position and not allow them to move.

1. The door frame is too recessed into the wall. We'll have to hammer the wall - the work is dusty, noisy and dirty. Attach the platband to the box and draw a line on the wall. Using a grinder with a diamond disc or saw (depending on the material of the wall), cut a line along the wall. And then you need to choose a niche for the platband. This can be done with a grinder, chisel, etc. Constantly check the depth of the groove. If in some places the niche turned out to be too deep, seal the depression with plaster or cement mortar and immediately put the platband in the desired depth position for a few seconds, this will help you make the niche more accurately. So you need to go around the entire door around the perimeter.
2. If you have a casing made of natural wood and has a decent thickness, then you can slightly remove its reverse side with a plane. Work very carefully, do not rush, it will be impossible to correct the error.

Video - How to fix the platband without nails

Video - Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors

Installation of platbands with cutting ends at an angle of 90 °

Cutting the ends of the platband at an angle is rare; such a door does not look very nice. This can only be done by completely inexperienced craftsmen. It is better to make the open ends of the cuts on top of the vertical platbands, in this place the incised end is hardly noticeable.

Sections must be sanded with fine sandpaper. Sanding should be done carefully so as not to damage the laminate on the front surface of the casing. Places of cuts should be painted over with joiner's markers to match the main color. All other operations, except for the angle of sawing the ends, do not differ from those described above.

While fixing the platbands with liquid glue, keep them in the desired position for several minutes. Pay close attention to the accuracy of the connection at the joints. Unevenness in the wall or problems with the quality of the trim can widen the gap. To prevent this from happening, first fix the corner of the joint with a nail or put lining under it, taking into account the size of the gap between the platband and the wall. Only then can you press the platband to the entire surface and wait for the liquid glue to cool.

Drive the first nail in the middle of the casing, this will allow you to turn it a little for a tight connection in the corners of the saw. Only after the corners on all sides of the door have laid down properly, you can drive in nails to fix them. The distance between the nails is about 15 ÷ 20 centimeters. You need to check the distance by lightly tapping on the platband. You will immediately find out in which places there is a loose fit of the platband, drive additional carnations into them.

If, during hammering, the nail has not reached the end and is bent, do not pull it out. Gently pinch the remainder with pliers, rotate it left / right until it breaks off. Why not pull it out? The nail could not be hammered for a "valid" reason beyond your control, which means that the second will not enter this place until the end. It is much better to hammer a new one right next to it, there will be fewer holes in the platbands.

It is possible to increase the adhesion of the platbands along the entire width with polyurethane foam. Apply it on the back of the platbands with a thin strip along the entire length from the side of the wall, allow three to four minutes for partial drying. Otherwise, the foam will not stick to the surface. Then arrive the platbands in the recommended way. After the polyurethane foam has completely dried, carefully cut off the visible part, the gap can be sealed with a sealant. Although, if you do not overdo it with foam, then it should not perform. During pressing, the foam's ability to increase volume is significantly reduced.

In conclusion, we will give practical advice on working with a pneumatic pistol. It is designed in such a way that there are openings on the side for air exhaust. The piston is constantly lubricated with engine oil; during the exhaust of air, its smallest particles come out. When the studs need to be driven into the end of the platbands, an oily spot from the escaping air always forms on the white wall. Be sure to insert clean paper between the gun and the wall.

If you have white platbands, do not oil the nails, the oil will leave a stain at the entrance of the nail.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Video - Installing MDF or wooden platbands

Video - Errors in the installation of platbands, additions of interior doors

Installation of plastic platbands

In some cases, plastic platbands are difficult to distinguish from natural ones; in terms of their performance, they satisfy most owners. You can choose any color scheme, thickness and width. The set includes connectors for corner filing, mounting and front profiles.

How do I install them?

Step 1. Mark the mounting profile

The mounting profile is a plastic product with special latches for the front profile. The marking of the mounting profile does not need to be done very accurately, it closes later and becomes invisible. The cuts in the corners of the platbands can be with a distance of several millimeters, the gap does not play a critical role. Distances are removed, as described in the above section on installing MDF and wooden platbands.

Step 2. Cut the blanks of the mounting profile

You will need four long vertical and two short horizontal ones. You need to cut at an angle of 45 °. You can use an electric miter saw, an angle cutter (miter box) or an ordinary grinder with a thin metal disc. The mounting profile can be shorter than the front one by 5 ÷ 10 millimeters. This makes it easier to take measurements.

Step 3. Fix the mounting profile to the wall

Self-tapping screws are used for fastening.

Very important. The mounting part of the platband cannot always be fitted to a box, especially a thin Chinese one, and its installation on a wall requires the ideal quality of the latter. The best option is the walls are made of plasterboard, plywood or OSB boards. Plaster is the worst option. If the quality of plastering is “poor”, then you will have to trim the strip near the door frame with a spatula. Otherwise, the profile will bend in waves during attraction, and this is unacceptable.

The mounting profile is fixed with self-tapping screws in special seats. If you need to screw in self-tapping screws more often - not a problem. Drill a small entrance hole in the plastic and screw in the self-tapping screws. Some masters advise this. We advise not to drill any special holes, the self-tapping screw can be screwed in so well. You need to start with fixing the center of the profile, along the edges the screws are screwed in only after checking the position and correcting errors.

Step 4. Remove the dimensions of the front profile, taking into account the thickness of the connecting elements of corner filings

In most cases, their thickness does not exceed two to three millimeters. But there is much wider, it all depends on the manufacturer of the trim. Dimensions are taken from the floor to the corner of the box.

Step 5. Saw off two vertical platbands at an angle, fix them in the mounting profile

One of the advantages of plastic platbands is that the front profile can be shifted in the assembly and in this way precisely adjust its position. It is advisable to first install only vertical platbands.

Step 6. Insert connecting profiles into the sawn-off ends of the front vertical platbands

Saw down one end of the horizontal front profile and insert it into the mounting profile. In this position, measure the place of sawing off the second end. Keep in mind the thickness of the connecting profile right away.

Step 7. Saw off the front profile at a 45 ° angle and insert it into place

In the hidden cavities of plastic platbands, you can mount electrical, telephone or Internet cables. Thanks to the corner fittings, the joints are always very neat; you do not need to use a sealant to eliminate cracks.

It is better not to install plastic platbands on walls lined with clapboard. If you really want to, then you need to prepare for this ahead of time. Before installing the door frame around the perimeter of the doorway, a wooden lath with a thickness of about 0.5 ÷ 1.0 cm should be nailed down. It should be nailed carefully into the convex places of the lining profile. Make sure that the slats do not bend in waves. During the installation of the door frame, it must be aligned according to the level of the rails. On the opposite side of the door frame, alignment is done by adding.

We do not recommend purchasing factory-made boxes for a bath, they are not highly durable, during prolonged contact with water they can completely lose their bearing capacity. In addition, the factory boxes are very narrow, in most cases you need to install additional strips. It is much more profitable to purchase only door leaves in a store, it is difficult to make them yourself. And the boxes can be made by yourself, while you will immediately choose the desired width, make them stronger and more durable.

Video - Installing plastic platbands with your own hands

They are able to significantly decorate the interior of the room, they can be made both from natural wood (the most expensive option) and from plastic or MDF. Plastic decorative platbands have a complete set of additional elements that simplify the installation process. You will have to tinker with wooden ones.

Decorative platbands - photo

Their installation begins with washed down the upper corners. When taking measurements, you need to keep in mind not only the position of the casing in relation to the door frame, but also the combination of patterns. Some platbands have special technological places to facilitate the alignment of patterns, and some need to be very carefully selected. Especially many problems can arise during the joining of the upper and side platbands. If you have little experience in performing such complex work, it is better not to take it. Don't waste your time and money.

Video - Installation of decorative platbands

Sections of the article:

Platbands on any doors have a common important purpose - to close assembly joints between the wall and the door frame. This design has no other purpose. Without platbands, the door functions in the same way as with them. However, thanks to the platbands, a pleasant appearance of the structure and the room as a whole is ensured. When choosing platbands, it should be borne in mind that not all walls are the same in thickness and often you have to come up with a way out of a situation when the walls are wider than the box. One of the options for solving the problem is to build up a narrow frame, but such actions significantly spoil the overall appearance. The best way out of the situation is telescopic door trims.

Key features of telescopic platbands

The concept of "telescopic" for this type of platbands is rather arbitrary, since the platband cannot move forward and backward. The design can be transformed using an adjustable corner. The extension process takes place due to the movement of the corner shelf into a special groove located in the end part of the box. In the course of such movements of parts, the platband can be expanded or narrowed. In essence, this device is a combined-type casing with an additional rail.

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Despite the peculiar versatility of the product, the telescopic casing has 2 types of its design: a standard product and an extended type. Platbands with one corner are standard products. Such designs can increase the width of the door frame by no more than 2 cm.

Expanded type platbands can increase the size of the door frame up to 15 cm. They are additionally equipped with an extension strip, which has a special groove for the corner platband.

Thus, both versions of the product perfectly cope with their functional tasks. The main difference between them is the presence of an additional element and the principle of the purpose of the device.

Materials of manufacture and dimensions

The same materials are used as the base material for the production of the telescopic casing as for the usual materials. The most popular of them: MDF, natural wood, chipboard sheets. At the same time, it is allowed to use natural wood with veneer, lamination, plastic panels and aluminum.

In this case, the principle of material selection is quite simple: the platband must match the door leaf. Based on this principle, wood trims are mounted with wooden canvases, and chipboard door structures imply the placement of telescopic trims made of the same material.

Dimensions (edit)

The concept of the size of a sliding telescopic casing is rather arbitrary. It is especially difficult to include in this classification product varieties with the possibility of significant expansion. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the existing platbands and their additional strips can be trimmed both lengthwise and across.

However, with this functionality, it is worth considering the appropriateness of the product in a particular case, because the longer and wider the platband, the greater its cost. At the same time, after the parts are inserted into the grooves, the design may have dimensions that do not differ much from standard models.

The width of the decorative bar in most cases ranges from 60 to 80 mm. In this case, the width of the shelf, which is inserted into the grooves, has a standard fixed value of 40 mm from the outside. The length of the beams of this set is 2.2 and 2.1 m. The additional additional strip in most cases has a width of 80 to 120 mm, with the length of the product similar to the platbands.

Installation features

Installation of platbands of this type is somewhat different from the installation of standard platbands. The whole process of fixing to the doorway consists of several stages:

• Fitting additional strips and platbands;
• Installation of add-ons;
• Installation of platbands.

Fitting additional strips of platbands

The fitting procedure consists in cutting all strips to the required parameters of the door frame. Both the width of the additional strip and the length of the strips with telescopic platbands are cut off.

Accuracy is important at this stage. Even a seemingly insignificant error in measurements or when trimming products can lead to the formation of large visible gaps when installing a structure in the areas of junction of horizontal and vertical strips. In this case, the product will be damaged, since it will not be able to look like a whole.

When working with telescopic platbands, the correction of the additional strips is primarily performed. And until they are installed and securely fastened, the platbands themselves are not cut off.

Additional cutting can be carried out by performing a straight cut, or at an angle of 45 degrees. However, in the absence of experience in making accurate cuts of corners, you should not start learning with telescopic casing. To get the job done by a joinery beginner, it's best to cut straight.

Installation of add-ons

According to the standard, on the back of the box, on one of the sides, there is a seat in the form of a selected quarter for installing an additional rail. It is in this hole that the strip will be installed. To carry out the installation, you just need to insert and wedge it with wedges or pieces of the rail in the place of the section of the selected quarter.

The main condition for such an installation is to ensure that there are no wedges protruding beyond the walls. After the wedging procedure, the remaining space between the doorway and the extension strip is blown out using polyurethane foam.

It is worth remembering that when using polyurethane foam when it expands during blowing, various deformation processes can occur in the structure. To prevent them, it is necessary to use special spacers. If you do not want to make a spacer of extensions using jumpers, you can use a polyurethane-type sealant. Such substances have a small pressure created during the solidification of the mass. In most cases, these sealants are standardized with the number 65.

Installation of straight telescopic platbands

To carry out the correct and reliable installation of platbands, it is very important to cut them precisely in order to avoid the appearance of gaps. The installation procedure itself is the insertion of products into the grooves intended for this in the add-ons or in the door frame itself.

The procedure for driving the strip into the groove is best done by tapping the product with a rubber hammer - a mallet. An ordinary hammer can also be used for this purpose, but in this case it is necessary to act with light translational movements through the spacer in the form of a bar of soft wood. Since in most cases these elements are inserted very tightly, there is no need to use additional fasteners.

If situations arise when the grooves are unable to securely hold the structural elements, it is permissible to use other fastening measures in the form of gluing with mounting glue or nails. In the case of using adhesives, it should be borne in mind that the dismantling of the product with this method of fastening will be possible only by breaking the structural elements. And for fasteners with nails, it is better to use special nails. They practically do not have a cap, which makes it possible to perform a reliable installation with the fastening of the structure without obvious traces of installation.

When installing straight telescopic platbands, problems often arise with awnings and the striker of the locking system. The essence of the problem lies in the presence of fastening screws that prevent the installation and fastening of the telescopic-type casing. In such a situation, there are two options for solving the problem.

The first method is to make minor cuts at the points of contact with self-tapping screws. This will provide free passage and fastening of parts. The second method is to extract all available structural elements that impede installation. In this case, after installation, the fasteners will be mounted back. The second method is preferable because it ensures the integrity of all structural details. At the same time, with the help of self-tapping screws, not only the lock striker and awnings will be fixed, but also the telescopic platbands themselves.

Installation of platbands on the door allows you to give the entrance space an aesthetic appearance - this is the final touch of installation. The process itself is very laborious and must be performed scrupulously, but almost every person who has minimal skills in working with a wood tool can do this work with his own hands. How to install door trims without much difficulty with your own hands? Just. It is important to adhere to the basic rules.

The choice of casing material and features of its installation

The platband itself for interior doors is a decorative part of the end of the opening, covering the assembly seam and protecting the insulating materials from contact with ultraviolet light. It is made from various materials that are selected in accordance with the overall design of the door and room.

The installation of this unit is very similar to the installation of skirting boards and cornices - it sums up the final line of the work done.

Correct installation is very important and differs slightly depending on the material used.
Modern industry produces the following types of platbands for interior doors:

• Wooden platbands are made either from a single piece of wood or from gluing it together. Such platbands can be nailed to the door frame, either with ordinary nails without heads, or glued to "liquid nails". This type of glue is best used with a perfect wall.
• Plastic platbands are best attached with glue. The cost of such platbands is very small, which allows them to be dismantled, if necessary, without regret. The plastic casing is very flexible and easy to attach; it is one of the pliable materials for do-it-yourself work.
• MDF planks for interior doors are very similar to their wooden brothers. But they must be strengthened by adhering to certain strict rules. In order not to split the platband, a hole in it for a nail is made with a 1-1.5 mm drill.

The corner washed down the platbands

When choosing the angle of the casing, it is necessary to look at the presence of a relief on its surface. If it has a capital pattern or it is perfectly even, then such a platband should be correctly docked at a right angle (either vertically or horizontally).
The embossed skirting board, like the skirting board with an oval outer surface, is best cut at 45 degrees.

This option for joining platbands is used most often, but it requires strict adherence to certain rules and great care.

If you make a mistake in sawing down the platbands at an angle of 45 degrees, then when the installation is done, you will get small gaps that will have to be putty with wood putty. To cut the parts correctly, you must use a miter box and a file with sufficiently fine teeth.

Step-by-step installation

To correctly install the platbands with your own hands, you first need to determine their length. When calculating the angle of the cut, you must adhere to the following rule: the outer size of the casing must be taken at the rate of +34 mm to the width of the casing. When installed on a box, the size should be equal to +22 mm, and the internal size should be equal to +18 mm from the casing width. Thus, with a casing width of 800 mm, its outer size when installed on an extension will be 834 mm, when mounted on a door frame - 822 mm, and the size of the casing's internal size will be 818 mm.

When installing the platband, it is necessary to leave a margin of height equal to the width of the platband, this will allow, in case of inaccuracy, to eliminate the error in the platband cut!

The same manipulations must be carried out with the second platband. Just don't make an exact copy of the first casing. The height of the two platbands may differ from each other.


Next, you need to wash down the measured sidewalls of the casing using a miter box and a small hacksaw. It is necessary to cut at an angle of 45 degrees, having drawn a cut line before this.
Having made a cut of two vertical parts of the casing, it is necessary to "grab" them to the door frame with two nails to determine the length of the horizontal part of the casing.
By the way, it will be better if the installation of platbands starts from the side of the door opening.
Next, we measure the horizontal part of the casing, slipping its upper part under its vertical "neighbors". We draw the cut lines and make the cut itself in the same way as in the previous cases. After making sure that everything is "laid down" correctly, you can nail the platbands to the base.
When the installation of the platbands is completed, it is necessary to cover up the joints. It is easiest to do this with a special putty in the color of the wood of the door and platband.

Installation of telescopic platbands

The installation of telescopic platbands is generally done in the same way as the installation of conventional ones - you can do this work yourself with your own hands. The only nuance that must be taken into account is the fragility of the platbands themselves - they must be installed and removed from the grooves strictly at right angles. Otherwise, the shelf will inevitably break off, which keeps the platband in the groove.

The name itself implies that the platbands must somehow adjust to the thickness of the wall, but this adjustment is very symbolic. The main task is performed by extensions connecting the box and the platbands themselves.

DIY installation begins with the installation of the box. When it is ready, dobras are attached to it.
The last step is to attach the platbands. The only difficulty that can arise with them is marking and cropping. If they are performed with errors, then there will be cracks at the joints. They can be repaired with putty, but it is better if they are not.
This completes the installation. In more detail, all the nuances on the video:

Nuances you need to know when doing work with your own hands

In order to hide the place of nailing with a nail, use a special wax corrector in the color of the platband tree.
If the wall near the doorway is perfectly flat, then it is better to fix the platband on "liquid nails", in this case there will be no holes from the nails.
In order to avoid the appearance of cracks after washing down the platbands, measurements must be made correctly, avoiding mistakes, while making preliminary notes with a pencil. This measurement option will minimize gaps and, ideally, avoid them.
Sometimes a situation may arise when the platbands at the place of their joining diverge slightly. This can be corrected by fastening the platbands with a small nail on top of the horizontal platband.

Installation of door trims can be done in two fundamentally different ways - as professionals say, with trimming at 45 ° or at 90 °. Regardless of the installation method, this work is quite complex and requires utmost attention. In this article from the site, we will analyze both of these installation methods - we will study not only the sequence of work, but also all the subtleties, as well as the nuances inherent in them.

Installation of a platband on an interior door

Installation of door trims: installation with 45 ° corner trimming

It is not difficult to guess that this method of installing door trims involves trimming the joints of individual parts of the kit at 45 ° - this is the most common method that is equally suitable for trims with any configuration. For those who do not know, I will say that the profile of door frames can be different: their front surface can represent a flat plane, curved in an arc and even carved, which is typical for products of this type, carved from natural wood.

The whole difficulty of such an installation of the platband is precisely in trimming these corners. If you have a miter saw in your home arsenal, then this is not a problem - it makes a clear and even cut. But if this tool is absent, then it will be difficult, especially when it comes to trimming colored laminated or veneered products of this type. The fact is that even with an electric jigsaw, not to mention a manual hacksaw, it is quite difficult to make a smooth, accurate and clean cut without chipping the front cover. That is why one cannot do without special devices, there are two of them - this is a miter box and a rotary hand saw.

Installation of platbands on the door

1. The miter box is a rather primitive instrument and not very accurate. This is a kind of template made in the form of a groove, on top of which there are slots. It is they who determine the cutting angle. Over time, and this happens very quickly, the cutting tool breaks the slots, and there can be no question of any accuracy. It is essentially a disposable tool.
2. Rotary hand saw. If you choose a manual tool for installing door trims, then it is better to opt for this option - it is more durable and also allows for more accurate and clean trimming. It is quite easy to work with it - you turn the saw at the desired angle and manually, in the old fashioned way, by moving your hand back and forth, you make a cut.

There is a third way to install door trims with a 45 ° cut - manual. Approaching the solution to this problem in this way, you will have to draw a line yourself and at the same time maintain the required angle, and then perform an accurate and accurate cut using an electric jigsaw or a manual hacksaw for metal. In any case, this undertaking will only work if your hands have sufficient dexterity. By the way, professionals have one trick that allows you to minimize the number of chips on the decorative surface in the process of cutting the material - adhesive tape is glued along the cut line, which plays the role of a kind of protection against chips.

You can see how the trimming of platbands at 45 ° without all kinds of devices is performed in the video attached below.

Installation of wooden platbands: installation with cutting corners at 90 °

This method of solving the question of how to install the platbands on is not suitable for all types of this product. If we are talking about moldings with a clear rectangular section or with small rounded edges, then you can't think of anything better. This installation method consists in the fact that the strips are connected at an angle of 90 ° relative to each other. In this case, the upper casing is, as it were, nested between the two lateral ones. It is this moment that makes it easier to trim and fit the joints.

But everything is not so simple here - you cannot do without accurate measurements and even, clean, without chips, cuts. Only platbands with an even rectangular configuration, without any rounding of the edges, are ideally joined - in this case, you only have to accurately calculate, down to millimeters, the height of the side platbands and the length of the top rail.

How to install door trims

Things are a little more complicated with platbands, which have rounded edges - in this case, the usual straight cut cannot be dispensed with. Due to rounding, the ends of the upper casing are visible during direct trimming. There is only one way to hide them - to make an oblique cut. The slope should be directed from the front side of the rail to the wrong side - in general, the docking remains at 90 °.

If we are talking about installing platbands with our own hands, which have a completely rounded or carved configuration, then this installation method is not suitable - this type of product must be installed with a 45 ° cut.

How to install platbands correctly: installation technology

So, we have decided on the methods for trimming the corners of the platbands, now it remains to deal directly with the installation process itself from "A" to "Z". Let's present it in the form of a small instruction.

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands

For novice craftsmen who, for sure, on the first try, will not be able to accurately calculate the size of the upper platband, I will tell you a way to get rid of the gaps. If unsightly cracks form in your joints, then there is only one way to hide them. This gap must be distributed on both sides of the door block, and then covered with a wax paste designed to eliminate chips on furniture. It is sold in all markets and comes in a variety of colors. As for the rest, the installation of platbands on the door should not cause any problems, the most important thing here is accuracy and accuracy.