Preparing lumber for building a house involves: proper storage no signs of damage. This was discussed in our previous article.

If the material was purchased fresh, it should dry out. A situation often arises when, despite precautions and correct actions After laying it down for storage, the wood turned blue in a matter of days and began to become stained.

Why do boards start to turn black?

When you see that the purchased lumber has begun to darken, don’t be annoyed with yourself for not looking ahead. And the supplier did not let you down.

It must be understood that darkening for living wood is a normal process of exposure to fungal organisms, which is more active in warm weather at temperatures above 5 °C. It affects loose species, such as pine, as well as denser ones - larch, spruce, fir, even beech.

Fungal spores are airborne and penetrate the wood along with rainwater. Distribution is affected by temperature and humidity. It follows that creating ideal storage conditions is not always feasible.

Has a blue-green coating appeared on the timber? There's no reason to be upset. This is not rotting. However, if you do not fight, lumber becomes unusable over time. Such a nuisance can be overcome by timely and competent processing actions.

Why is it important to treat wood for construction?

Fungi that attack wood can be of two types:

• wood-coloring - do not destroy the strength of wood, but affect appearance, painting it blue, black;
• wood-destroying - the most dangerous, since some independently produce moisture for development, under their influence the wood becomes porous, rots and disintegrates over time. It can be impossible to fight them.

How to check what kind of fungus has infected the tree, is it rotting or easily removable mold? This can be done using a nail: if, when pressed, it goes into the body of the tree more than 0.5 centimeters, the tree rots; if the hand feels resistance, everything is in order and it will be enough to remove the plaque and treat it with bleaching and antiseptic agents.

Usually builders deal with new wood, on which blue fungus is more often found. Close attention to those lumber that is planned to be used for interior decoration living space. For example, larch lumber, popular as a floorboard, which is coated with a clear varnish to preserve the visible part of the beautiful wood structure. Larch itself is resistant to bacteria. But the blue fungus, “settled” inside, over time destroys the outer coating, provides access to moisture to the tree, which contributes to its development and infection with other types of bacteria.

Scientific fact: destructive bacteria that infect wood are dangerous to humans. And their eradication is a concern for the most important thing: people’s health.

Therefore, during construction, it is important to prevent infested wood from being wasted. To do this, it is enough to remove the fungus using special means and prevent it from spreading. After this, the tree can be used for its intended purpose.

Ways to “treat” damaged lumber

The first way to save wooden building material- treatment with antiseptic solutions before darkening occurs.

When asked what to do if the boards become moldy, blue or blackened, there is only one answer: immediate treatment.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Wood bleach treatment. Let's say the timber has darkened by 3-4 centimeters, this can be seen in the cross section. Bleach will help here, penetrating up to 5 centimeters deep.
2. Treatment with an antiseptic agent that prevents the development of bacteria in the body of the board.

Sequence of use of wood preservatives

Bleach and antiseptic penetrate the wood deeply. There are also means that perform a protection function. They only create the top layer.

Speaking of salvation wooden structures large-scale, then fire protection should be added to the means of combating biological damage affecting wood structures - this is provided by fire retardants.

Wood is a fire hazardous material in any climate. And the relevance of fire retardant treatment is obvious. This especially applies to rafters.

The order in which the products are applied matters here. The first to use is an antiseptic that penetrates the wood fibers. Then - a fire retardant, which creates a top protective layer.

Universal fire-bioprotective products are also offered on the market. Their use is possible without additional trains, if there is no need to initially restore the whiteness of the wood structure.

Rules for applying protective equipment

When processing wood, the following points should be considered.

• An effective processing method is immersion. Alternative methods are to use a brush or spray.
• The preparations cannot be mixed; simultaneous exposure is destructive to wood fibers. Each subsequent product is applied only after the previous one has been completely absorbed and dried.
• An increase in the degree of protection is achieved either by highly concentrated preparations or by the number of layers applied.
• You should not treat wet and frozen wood, since an antiseptic is the same moisture, and wood containing water is not able to fully absorb.
• It is better to choose a warm season for processing.
• Antiseptics and fire retardants should be applied using individual protective equipment, since a chemical burn to the skin is possible if the drugs come into contact with unprotected areas of the body.
• Another point that affects the quality of processing is the implementation of preparatory manipulations with lumber before starting work with it. That is, treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants before changes occur in the structure of the tree under the influence of fungi, when it is possible to treat the tree from all sides, and not just its visible part in the structure.

For every processing situation wooden materials exists individual solution. If we're talking about about a floor board, for example, in an apartment, then an antiseptic or varnish coating will be sufficient. If we are thinking about protecting the rafters in a private house, then the use of varnish will be useless, unless the open rafters are part of the design of the room, but additional protection against fire, two or three layers will be the optimal solution.

Contact the specialists of the Alliance-Stroy company for advice and purchase of wood protection products. Long-lasting buildings!

The most popular material that is used when construction is started or, despite technological progress and the latest developments, is still wood. This is also related to his technical characteristics, and with the fact that the cost of renovating an apartment in Moscow can become significantly less if wood is used, and not, for example, metal elements. Alas, wood is susceptible to various damages and quickly becomes covered with dark gray spots and blue stains. In damp air and high temperature flying fungal spores quickly do their job. What to do? Do I need to get rid of the affected material or can it be saved? Let's try to figure it out.

Correct preparation

Why does wood darken? It's actually simple. Wood is a biological material that has its own specific moisture content. Microscopic spores of mold and mildew, freely moving through the air, settle in nutrient medium and begin to actively reproduce there. This process, unfortunately, cannot be prevented in any way. During construction or when, for example, an office is being renovated, wood is difficult to process. What to do? First, choose the right material. Winter wood is considered to be of the highest quality. It is harvested at a time when the ambient temperature does not exceed 10 °C. Such conditions naturally cause moisture to freeze out of the pores. Winter preparations have an optimal percentage of humidity - 10-12, or even 8%. Such wood is least susceptible to infection by fungi and mold.

Due to the absence of natural freezing, wood harvested in the summer, due to the active construction season, sometimes immediately goes to sawing and goes on sale. It is raw, and therefore its use is fraught with trouble. Not only can blue spots appear on the wood, it can also become deformed. This especially applies to boards, since the smaller the cross-section, the easier it is for fungus to penetrate inside. Actually, this is why blue on timber is a rather rare occurrence.

Secondly, it is better to purchase certified wood, especially if the construction promises to be long or you are stocking up on material for future use. This material is completely soaked in a protective solution in the factory. A uniform layer is sufficient to prevent the spread of fungus over the surface of the product, which significantly increases its shelf life.

You can also impregnate purchased boards yourself. To do this you will need a sprayer, roller or brush. However, this is quite a labor-intensive task. It is best to take a non-tinting antiseptic impregnation that does not form a film on the surface of the material.

The fungus that stains wood blue is not the only pest that can ruin building materials. However, unlike other lesions, blueness is a dangerous symptom, since it not only penetrates deep inside, but also precedes rotting.

Save or throw away?

If blue stains have settled on building material or on finished design, you need to get rid of it. The sooner you do this, the better. It can be bleached with special compounds. However, the first step is to dry the surface, ventilate the room - in general, do everything possible to get rid of excess moisture.

Wood bleaches are most often chlorine-based. For example, these are “Neomid 500”, “Sagus+”, “Senezh EFFO”. It is not always possible to remove blue stains the first time. Therefore, the surface is usually re-treated. After bleaching, the wood should be washed. This is necessary to avoid efflorescence. Then it is dried. Only then can you evaluate the result of the work done.

It is important to consider that bleaches are only effective in cases where the spores have not penetrated very deeply and have not affected the core. Sometimes it is easier to throw away building materials than to revive them. The penetration depth of impregnations is on average 3 mm. If it is clear to the naked eye that the damage to the wood is excessive, if the inside is dark, almost dark and has a loose structure, then bleaching will not help.

Tree potion

After completing the bleaching procedure, you can begin applying the protective layer. Antiseptics are used for this. They may or may not form a film on the surface being treated. The latter require regular treatment, since the biocide they contain is quickly washed out by precipitation. Antiseptics that do not form a film, as well as primers for wood, are applied before further painting (enamel, transparent glaze or completely covering moisture-resistant paint). They are also applied to wood, which will subsequently be covered. finishing materials, in particular, siding.

Primers penetrate quite deeply into the wood, they create a vapor-permeable coating and often contain UV filters. On the surface they form an elastic coating that promotes better adhesion to paint or enamel. Among them there are those that can be applied to raw wood, the humidity of which does not exceed 40%. Primers can also be used to coat parts of structures that will be constantly exposed to adverse factors. Such compositions include Belinka base, AQUATEX and primer-impregnation VDAK “On Wood”.

The compositions that form the film not only protect the surface, but also create a decorative layer that gives the wood a pleasant shade. Typically, manufacturers offer consumers about 10-15 colors to choose from. Antiseptics also protect wood from fading and lightening.

For interior works Acrylate-based primers and paints are used. Such compositions are distinguished by good thixotropy (that is, they do not flow) and do not have an unpleasant odor.

For exterior work, it is best to choose solvent-based paints - alkyd glazes. They will create a more durable coating.

When using acrylate film-forming coatings, it should be remembered that their color appears only after complete drying. Alkyd ones contain various waxes and oils that provide special durability to the coating.

So, in most cases, wood can be saved. However, no antiseptic manufacturers guarantee that the blue discoloration will not return again. Repeated problems can be avoided if you promptly treat the wood with appropriate compounds, monitor and care for it. So any building and structure will last a long time, delighting with its beauty and impeccability.

Hot summer, precipitation, high humidity- not the best favorable conditions For coniferous species wood However, the season of construction and renovation has arrived. wooden houses. The question arises: - What to do if purchased or purchased timber and boards turn blue?

The summer season is always associated with the construction and repair of country wooden buildings, usually with an increased demand for edged lumber. Many who build themselves or perform this work for the first time they are faced with a simple question:

- What to do if the purchased edged beams and boards turn blue, or worse, turn black and become moldy?

I would like to immediately note that this question for professionals, those who work with wood constantly every day, is not a discovery, I take it as a “given” and treat it quite calmly, although I admit honestly, sometimes it pisses off some “ experts"who have their own way about wood, which is formed from a huge mass of articles read on the Internet (about winter - summer, northern - southern, dry and not dry, blue and white). You have to work with them on the spot in person, because in in the head this mass of information forms “ semolina porridge "from terms, other people's opinions and statements, very far from today's reality of the edged lumber market.

I think my tips will help those who are building from wood for the first time, and those who are faced with this problem when repairing a wooden structure and reconstructing it in the summer and autumn.

To immediately put everything in its place, remove it "semolina porridge" out of your head, you need to clearly separate the terms that are used. This is lumber from Dead wood and lumber from Green Forest.

Not long ago in recycling circles round timber the term appeared in edged lumber and those who sell it in capital markets Green Forest. What does this term mean:

Comparative photos

If you purchased unknowingly dead wood(fireweed and larvae-infested forest), then this article is not for you (follow the link here -) Everything described below refers to the term Green Forest, those. to a good forest that has darkened or become covered with plaque due to changes in temperature and humidity.

For clarity, I am posting photographs with my comments. All photo material was made by me personally different times from places of delivery to my customers ( all the photos I posted in this article are contained in a huge)

This material causes panic and rejection in some clients. In fact, not everything is as bad as it looks. If the timber does not go under planing (it will be planed), it is enough to treat it with Senezh OgneBioProf

In the photo the material that was placed on retail areas. The client sorts through the material, having difficulty choosing a relatively white board. Of course, overkill costs money. It’s not easier to spend money on septating drugs!

In the photo below there is a small section board 100x25 that has not been treated with a septic tank. It can be seen that all the boards are covered with a blue-green coating. Surprisingly, this circumstance causes hysteria and semi-fainting in some people due to ignorance. By the way, the frame of the building is made of materials for which, as I believe, no expense was spared.

But here is the correct approach “with knowledge of the matter”! In the photo, all load-bearing elements of the roof have been treated with a septic tank. By the way, the shooting and installation of the roof were carried out in winter time year.

I’ll try to briefly explain in my own words why this always happens, every construction season - in summer and autumn, from year to year:

• It is necessary to immediately emphasize that blueing is one of the main negative properties of building materials made from softwood. Freshly cut lumber will certainly turn blue in summer and autumn when the temperature is above zero. However, this is not a reason to refuse to build a house, repair the roof and the entire wooden structure, because... In Rus', buildings have been built from wood for centuries.
• any edged lumber natural humidity has a biological origin and reacts with environment. Temperature changes, precipitation, and humidity changes during the entire time after processing at the sawmill into edged lumber naturally affect the external and internal condition of the wood.
• The shavings that remain after cutting on a beam or board, in above-zero and humid weather, are the first to begin to decompose and rot, and accordingly react with the environment, and naturally with the wood. This causes the board or timber to become covered with a blue-green coating and then begin to turn black.
• fine-section boards (100x25 150x25, 200x25 mm), lumber packed in bundles (25x50, 40x50, 50x50 mm) turn blue even on board the “logistics truck” that delivers edged lumber to retail areas, because sometimes she spends 3-5 days on the road due to traffic jams and confusion that has developed in many regions adjacent to Moscow in the last 4 months with the entry into force of new rules for the movement of freight vehicles on the Moscow Ring Road.
• Improper on-site storage or stacking enhances this effect. Quite often, the bottom and top rows can turn blue or black even when properly stacked on spacers.

Photo of the correct stacking of lumber on the site for storage and work. It should be noted that this work should be entrusted to professional movers. This additional service exists on the website in the Unloading section.

What to do... ? This question has a simple and obvious answer.

If edged timber or boards, floor joists or floor beams are covered blue-green coating, or even completely blackened, it's no problem. Because timber and edged board still a construction worker material - biological origin , from this their construction properties how building material does not lose. You just need to treat this as an inevitable process - with patience and understanding. Purchase antiseptic agents in the required quantity and spend a little time on processing. This is quite enough so that the blue does not turn into black and does not go 2-3mm deep into the wood. Blue and black spots on wood are a product of the activity of wood-staining fungus. Behind it comes a more terrible fungus that eats the structure of the wood. The wood begins to rot and deteriorate rapidly. To remove staining fungus, you need to use a reducing bleach. And then treat this wood with an antiseptic.

In the photo below I show the action of one of them!

I think this is a better solution than wasting time and nerves combing all the city markets in search of a supplier of white lumber, because... After unloading, the material must be stored somewhere. The situation with lumber is the same for all suppliers in retail spaces with “variable success” everywhere. By the time of purchase, it may not be entirely fresh (i.e., it has been sitting for 2-3 weeks). Luck will smile if you find fresh material that has just arrived at the retail space and is being unloaded. Don’t torture yourself and people by selecting and sorting out material because of the fine blue stain on some boards and beams! Use my recommendations!

This is lumber that is worth serious concern about. I am publishing these photos on purpose. This board has been lying around for 1.5-2 years and yet it is in demand for those who know what to do with it. The only question is the price of this material.

The main types of septic agents for wood:

Water-soluble antiseptics that protect against mold include:

• sodium fluoride,
• sodium fluoride,
• ammonium silicofluoride,
• drug VVK-3, drug XCP and MCHC.

Their solution is applied to the wood with a brush or by spraying through a gun powered by a compressor. The latter significantly saves costs and time.

Stages of working with lumber on site.

This is what professionals do construction companies despite the color of the lumber I supply for construction. Supply of planed dry timber 40m3 to the village of Novoye, Volokolamsk district

SENEZH "EFFO" - properties: Deep bleaching of wood due to enhanced penetration. Intensive formula of the whitening composition SENEZH EFFO based on an oxygen-transferring agent. SENEZH "EFFO" maintains the effectiveness of bleaching during long-term storage. The bleaching composition does not leave chemical burns on treated wood. Bleached wood is safe for humans and pets. Wood bleach SENEZH "EFFO" removes all types of surface damage to wood. The product is suitable for both indoor and outdoor use. The bleaching composition can withstand freezing without losing its properties. SENEZH "EFFO" neutralizes itself and does not form efflorescence on the surface. SENEZH "EFFO" wood bleach is suitable for processing food-grade wooden transport containers. The bleach has a pleasant lemon scent.	SENEZH EUROTRANS- Antiseptic is designed to protect freshly sawn timber, lumber from blue stains and mold caused by mold and wood-staining fungi, and wood-boring insects during atmospheric drying, storage and transportation in an undried state (with humidity above transport) under conditions of possible periodic exposure to precipitation. AREA OF APPLICATION: Antiseptic SENEZH EUROTRANS used for antiseptic treatment of freshly sawn timber and sawn materials for export purposes, for which fungal staining and mold are unacceptable or have restrictions during atmospheric drying, storage and transportation in an undried state (with humidity above transport). KEY BENEFITS: Difficult to wash - provides protection in the most difficult conditions Does not contain chemical compounds prohibited in EU countries Supplied in an economical form for transportation - as a liquid concentrate Technological - no dissolution required, only dilution with water Does not change the natural color and appearance of wood after treatment Able to actively penetrate and attach to damp wood Does not affect the strength, adhesion and paintability of wood Suitable for all antiseptic methods (technologies) Stops biological damage that has already begun Frost-resistant and fire- and explosion-proof material	SENEZH OGNEBIO PROF - fire and bioprotection of wood. Fire protection of wood SENEZH OGNEBIO PROF designed to protect against fire, the spread of flame and combustion, as well as rot, mold, blue stains and wood-boring insects of wooden materials, structures and structures for residential, public, industrial and agricultural purposes in conditions of hygroscopic and condensation humidification without contact with the ground, exposure to precipitation , soil moisture. Fire protection of wood SENEZH OGNEBIO PROF used for professional processing truss structures roofs, sheathing, trusses, beams, interfloor ceilings, wall cladding and partitions, structures subject to fire, combustion and biodestruction. It is allowed to use a fire-retardant composition SENEZH OGNEBIO PROF for bioprotection of external walls, gables, cornices, subject to subsequent coating with moisture-resistant paints and varnishes on top of the completely absorbed product.
Thematic link to the site - KradO

The continuation of this article is the article: - Septalization of lumber on your site. How to quickly organize and process a batch of lumber for construction.

The wooden building has already been painted with a colorless fire-bio septic tank

How to avoid this problem as such when starting construction of a wooden house:

1. Taking into account our climate zone, I would like to emphasize and point out the following circumstances that should be taken into account when starting redevelopment and construction wooden house:

• in the fall (September, October) lay the foundation for the construction of the frame of a wooden house;
• in winter (January, February, March) build a house from timber (the frame itself is made of timber, installation of floor and ceiling joists, core floor and roof sheathing). Winter is the most favorable time for wood, because... The weather is below zero and the material does not turn blue. Those. lumber stops turning blue when temperature regime from 0 to -5 degrees Celsius.

  3. If there is a need to obtain lumber excellent quality(calibrated - chamber drying), then this must be done in another price segment market such as . In addition, frame wooden buildings I recommend making it from this material, because... it is easy and simple to work with. Because it is less susceptible to warping and has undergone chamber drying, it has a clearly defined percentage of moisture content depending on the cross-section finished product. Those. in other words, it is less susceptible to shrinkage and blueing because transported to the customer in a car closed type, and stored in retail areas in a closed, ventilated area, and individual sections of timber are generally packaged in vacuum film to avoid moisture ingress. Deformations such as small chips, gouges and scratches.

For
Your home depends on its reliability and durability. And doing production of rounded logs , you need not only take away the log the required diameter, but first cut down the tree at the right moment in compliance with necessary requirements and properly store timber.

A very common belief is that there is nothing worse than fire and beetles for wood. But this is a superficial look; often owners of wooden houses are faced with other, much more difficult to solve problems. As for the bugs, it is easy to get rid of them with the help of appropriate treatment, using special compounds the required degree of fire protection of wood is also ensured.

But what if the log turned blue and you didn’t have time to prevent it? First of all, you should know that if a log turns blue, then its properties do not change, which means that the fight against blue staining will not be in vain. If the blue stain has affected only the surface of the log, then ordinary Whiteness, used for economic purposes, will cope with the task of eliminating it. The only side effect will be the bleached color of the wood at the treatment site. If the blue stain has already ingrained itself into the surface of the log, then using Svetelka, a product consisting of a fixative and developer combined in the required ratio, will help. If you use such a product, you will completely get rid of the blue stain, and the surface of the log will not be distorted in any way, and the color and texture will remain unchanged. If the process has already started and the log has begun to rot, then it is simply useless to fight rotting with the help of any compounds; only mechanical intervention will help here. That is, in in this case, you need to get rid of the affected area on the log. If you do not want to spoil the appearance of the log and cut out damaged parts of the logs with an ax, then it is much better to take care of preventing putrefactive processes in advance.

Logs should be stored only in stacks that are ventilated on all sides, using special gaskets. It is necessary to protect the stacks from precipitation on them, that is, cover them. And, of course, harvested wood needs special treatment - antiseptic treatment.

Blue or gray-black spots on the surface of the wood are caused by fungal staining. This is considered a defect in timber and will be taken into account during grading. The problem is that the discoloration of the wood makes it unsuitable for some applications.

Fungi feed on wood cells. The tree itself does not collapse (without the formation of rot).

Today there are from 100 to 250 different known species fungi that cause staining of wood. Among the most important species are Ceratocystis, Acomycetes, Aureobasidium, Alternaria Cladosporium (from the Deuteromycetes group). Blue coloration is often the result of mixed infestations.

Photo: blue mold fungi affecting timber, boards, lumber. Here is the culprit and the answer to the question: Why do timber, boards, lumber turn black and blue?

Damage occurs mainly in coniferous forests. Pines are particularly susceptible, but spruce, firs, larches, and some hardwoods such as beech can also be attacked by the fungus.

Infection of a tree can occur in different ways. The spores can spread through the air, or be carried by insects or rainwater. Fungi also have different requirements to the habitat, important determining factors are the temperature and humidity of the wood.

Although freshly cut wood is not usually attacked, the slightest decrease in moisture content can cause fungi to spread into the sapwood. They mainly occur in places where lumber is stored that is poorly stacked and not sufficiently dried. Moisture and fungal spores can penetrate the wood through cracks in the coating. Fungi grow under the coating and can lift this layer and cause damage after the wood has been delivered to its final use.

The spores germinate and develop in the mycelium. The color comes from fungi that contain melanin. Appearance blue- an optical illusion similar to that which occurs with cigarette smoke, which also appears blue, although the ash particles are actually black. The color of blue stained wood depends on the concentration of pigment and therefore the amount of fungus in the wood. The more, the darker the color.

Risks of infection can be significantly reduced by making the right choice cutting time, optimizing log storage and wood processing.

Proper impregnation, priming, and the use of vacuum processing will reliably prevent the appearance of blue stains.

Photo: this product, under the working title “League Bioshield,” will help destroy and cure the wood of your boards, beams, logs and lumber from blue and black mold fungal pests. You can buy this amazing antifungal and anti-mold remedy at our warehouse in Moscow.

Photo: this product, under the working name Neomid 440, will help you effectively protect your wood from repeated recurrence of mold fungi and subsequent destruction of wooden structures consisting of boards, timber, logs and lumber.