It is difficult to overestimate the need to drain storm and melt water from the roof surface and from the entire structure as a whole. Today, manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of products that can satisfy the needs of the most demanding developer. Existing systems have sufficient durability, beautiful design, relative ease of installation and a wide color spectrum.

Having certain skills in construction, installing a drainage system will not cause difficulties for a novice builder. Each manufacturer has installation instructions that will help you organize your drain yourself.

Elements, types and factors influencing the choice of drainage system

Any drain is a structure of gutters and pipes, the diameter of which depends on the load of wastewater on linear meter roofs.

Gutters are attached to the building using brackets or hooks (a common name among many manufacturers). Pipes and gutters are connected using funnels, and the pipes are secured to the building using clamps.

Depending on architectural features building, to install a drainage system with your own hands, the following elements can be used:

The drain can be in the shape of a round or rectangular section. The width of the gutters directly depends on the roof area and ranges from 100 to 200 mm, and the diameter of the pipes can range from 75 to 120 mm.

The material that is mainly used to make the drainage system is plastic or metal. Galvanized drainage is almost never used due to its increased susceptibility to corrosion. Copper and titanium - zinc can also act as materials for a drainage system, but their cost is much higher.

The type of drainage system is determined at the building design stage. The drain must cope with the functions assigned to it and comply with the overall architecture of the building. The main factors that need to be considered before DIY installation are the following::

• the amount of annual precipitation in the area where the house will be built;
• color and material roofing and the facade of the building;
• roof configuration and its total area;
• architectural concept of the building.

Before making a drain yourself, read the instructions from the product supplier!

Choosing the location of drains and the necessary tools for installing a drainage system

The choice of location for water drainage is influenced by the length of the roof overhang. If the roof overhang is up to 10 meters long, one drain must be installed; if the roof length exceeds 10 meters, two drains are used.

The location and installation of drains depends on the type of roof, and for proper installation with your own hands, you can use the diagram below.

To install a gutter with your own hands you will need the following tool:

Installation instructions for the drainage system

1. Installation of the drainage system begins with the installation of hooks. There are mainly three types: short, adjustable and long. They can be attached to the bottom sheathing board, to the rafters, or on top of the rafters. For each of the cases, they apply various types hooks
2. Calculate the angle of inclination of the hooks. The recommended slope should be 2-3 mm/m. The hooks are placed side by side, numbered and the fold line is marked. Next, using a hook bending tool, they are bent according to the markings.
   
3. The first gutter hook is installed in such a way that the distance between the imaginary extension of the roof and the outer side of the gutter is 20 - 25 mm.
4. Installation of hooks is done at a distance of 0.8 - 0.9 meters with an inclination angle of 2-3 mm/m relative to the horizon. Installation begins from the edge of the cornice from which the slope relative to the horizon will occur. The first and last hooks should be located at a distance of 100 - 150 mm from the edge of the roof edge.
   

   If the hooks are installed not on the front board, but on the rafters or on the last beam of the sheathing, then grooves are made to level the surfaces of the hooks with the surface of the rafters or sheathing.

   
   

   Long hooks are installed before the roofing is installed!

5. If it is necessary to make a hole in the gutter for a funnel, then right place Mark with a pencil and use a hacksaw to cut out a hole. Using pliers, the funnel is given the required shape and the burrs are removed. The metal cut area is treated with special paint to prevent corrosion.
   

   Do not use for cutting materials grinder!

   The funnel is first attached to the outer bend of the gutter, and the fixing terminals are clamped on the inside. Next, the plug is installed on the end of the gutter using rubber mallet or hand pressing. The assembled structure is installed on the hooks by pressing at each hook.

   
   

   If possible, elements such as the funnel, caps and corners should be installed before the final installation of the gutter on the roof!

   
6. The gutters are connected using connecting locks. To do this, a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the ends of the parts being connected. Sealant is applied to the rubber gasket in the form of three lines: one is applied in the center, the rest on the sides. The back of the lock is attached to the inside of the gutters. Next, the lock is pressed towards the outside to ensure a tight fit of the gasket to the gutters. Snap the lock and secure it by bending the clamping terminals. Remaining sealant must be removed.
   
7. When installing internal or external corner elements, between the connected ends, it is also necessary to make a gap of 2-3 mm and connect using clamping locks, as indicated in the instructions above.

   A gap of 2-3 mm is necessary to compensate for temperature expansion. Do not forget about this, otherwise the structure may be destroyed or “turned inside out”!

8. Installation of gutters takes place in previously designated locations. To attach pipes to walls, clamps are used, which are secured with dowels. The distance between the clamps should not exceed two meters. The pipe must be at least 40 mm from the wall. Pipe cutting must be done using a hacksaw.

   It is prohibited to cut pipes from the narrowed end!

   If it is necessary to connect two elbows, then measure the distance between the ends of the pipes. To the resulting value (in this case “a”) 100 mm is added for the connecting pipe to enter the ends of the elbows (50 mm for each elbow).

To organize the drainage of water from the roofs of houses, various drainage systems are used, which are a structurally articulated set of elements that protect the base and external walls from waterlogging. In addition to performing protective function, modern drainage systems allow you to decorate your home and diversify its design. In this article we will tell you how to attach a gutter to the roof and wall.

To securely fasten all parts of the drainage system to the structure, special fasteners are used.

Types of fasteners

The following types of fasteners are used to secure gutters:

1. Brackets. Allows you to secure gutters. The size and shape of the brackets depends on the shape and overall dimensions of the gutters used.
2. Clamps. They are attached to the walls and allow you to fix the drain pipe. For different types walls (wooden and brick) various clamps are used. The shape and size of the clamps depends on the type used drain pipes. The most commonly used metal clamps are fastened with one, and long, hardware. Clamps made of plastic have 2 attachment points.

Methods

Methods for attaching gutters

To secure the gutters, brackets are used, which are mounted in the following ways:

1. On front board. This method used when roof installation is completely completed. This is the only way to secure the brackets without additional dismantling of already installed roof elements.
2. On the rafter legs. In the absence of a so-called frontal plate, the brackets are attached to rafter legs.
3. To the roof sheathing. In this case, special elongated clamps are used, fixed at two fastening points and allowing the brackets to be securely fastened to the mounted roof sheathing.

When installing the brackets, self-tapping screws are used.

Methods for attaching drain pipes

To secure drain pipes, clamps are used, when installing which the following should be taken into account:

1. To ensure a reliable connection, the depth of fixation of the hardware must be more than 60 mm, and it must fit into the wall, and not into the insulation.
2. It is necessary to ensure a certain distance from the facade wall to the drain pipe.
3. After fixing the drainpipe in the clamp, it should not compress it excessively. This is especially important when using PVC pipes, which change their dimensions due to temperature fluctuations, which can lead to cracks and destruction.

Carrying out installation

If you do not have the desire and necessary skills to install a drainage system on your own, then in this case it is better to involve specialists. Considering that this type installation is a fairly simple task, you can decide to self-installation roof drainage system. Having an assistant will greatly facilitate the installation process, but, in extreme cases, the work can be done alone.

To carry out installation work, in addition to the ladder, you will need a set of tools:

• building level;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• construction cord;
• square ruler;
• hacksaw for metal.

Installation of gutters

The position of the gutters relative to the roof overhang should be as follows:

• the overhang should protrude 25–65% relative to the edge of the drain closest to the house;
• the far edge of the drain should be below the visual plane of the roof (for a wavy roof, the plane is determined by the lower wave).

For high-quality water drainage, it is necessary to ensure a gutter slope in the direction of drainage of 0.2−0.3%.

Installation sequence:

1. Mark and attach the outer two brackets (first and last) taking into account the required slope.
2. Stretch the construction cord between the first and last bracket. This will make it easy to mark the installation locations of the remaining brackets.
3. Install the remaining intermediate brackets (in increments recommended by the manufacturer).
4. Secure the drain funnel (along the line of the cord).
5. Install drains. Install plugs where necessary. If there are protective nets, install them in the drain funnels.

Installation of drain pipes

Produced in compliance with the following rules:

1. Pipe installation is carried out in the bottom-up direction.
2. For the hardware on which the clamps will be attached, it is necessary to drill holes of the appropriate diameter.
3. The installation step of the clamps is 1.8 meters.
4. Each pipe must be secured with a separate clamp, with several clamps installed on long pipes (in accordance with the recommended spacing).
5. The lower pipe is brought out into storm drainage, and in its absence, the lower knee is mounted.
6. The top pipe will connect to the funnel.

A correctly selected and securely fastened drainage system will provide complete protection of your home from waterlogging of the walls and base, decorate and preserve appearance buildings for many years.

Video

Find out how to install a drainage system using the example of installing a plastic drainage system:

One of the key stages of arrangement roofing system the house is a drainage system. Without its organization, it is impossible to protect the facade of the building from rain and water flows during the snow melting period.

How to install drains correctly and what to consider when installing a structure, we will look at this article.

The question of how the drainage system will be arranged must be resolved at the design stage of the building.

When making calculations, you must be guided by the requirements of the current SNiPa 2.04.01-85. This approach will allow, taking into account all the nuances, to competently select the optimal design option.

The key purpose of the drainage system is to collect and drain precipitation, thereby protecting the walls and foundation of the building from premature destruction

Key points to follow when designing a drainage system:

1. After making a copy of the roof drawing, draw a plan for the location of the drainage elements.
2. Calculate the total area of ​​the roof and all its slopes separately, taking into account the adjacent vertical walls.
3. Taking as a basis the readings of rain intensity in a given area, determine the throughput of the system.
4. In accordance with the obtained values, determine the diameter of the mounted drainpipes, the number and cross-section of drain funnels, as well as the frequency of their placement along the wall of the building.

The result should be a system capable of collecting and discharging the maximum amount of liquid.

At the design stage, it is important to determine the location of the risers so that they do not disturb the exterior composition. Most often they are placed in the corners of the building, but the option of arrangement in a niche created by a bay window is quite acceptable.

If the pipe coming from the drains is discharged onto a blind area, it is better to remove the risers as far as possible from the entrances to the basements, basement ventilation vents and walkways near the house.

Components of a drainage system

The system includes two groups of parts - horizontal and vertical drainage parts. Together they number about a dozen species structural elements, each of which performs the task assigned to it.

The main thing when choosing the components of a drainage system is to select elements that, both structurally and in appearance, harmoniously complement the overall picture

The structural elements of the drainage system are:

• drainpipes– key functional elements of the system designed to move masses of water from the roof;
• gutters– narrow channels for collecting and redirecting water;
• funnels– conical sockets in the upper part of the pipe are designed to collect, retain and drain water flowing down the gutters;
• knee– structures in the form of short curved sections of pipes are installed to change the direction of water flow;
• brackets– fasteners for fixing the gutter to the roof;
• seals– additional elements ensure fastening strength at joints;
• clamps– fasteners for fixing the structure to the facade of the building.

Calculation of the required number of elements

It is better to entrust this rather important undertaking to specialists who sell drainage systems, or to specialists from a company that provides roofing installation services. In the absence of such an opportunity, the calculation can be performed on your own.

Since in private construction many are trying to avoid typical options and similar roof designs, required quantity system elements should be calculated individually

Key points for proper calculation:

1. Gutters. The total length of the channels must correspond to the length of all roof slopes used to collect water. They are connected using connectors.
2. Water intake funnels. They are installed at the outer corners of the building and additionally placed every 8-12 meters so that the overall slope of the channels is not too large.
3. Drainpipes. The number of products corresponds to the number of funnels, and the length corresponds to the distance from the roof to the ground surface.
4. Brackets. The number of brackets is determined on the basis that one element is required for each meter of channel. Additional holders will be required for funnels in the center and walls and in the corner of the house.

The number of clamps directly depends on the height of the building. But in any case, each individual pipe section being installed is secured with at least one clamp. When installing a drainpipe in one-story building Often three fasteners located at the top, bottom and middle of the product are sufficient.

When calculating, we take as a basis the condition that per 1 sq.m of roof in horizontal projection there should be 1.5 sq.cm of cross-sectional area of ​​the drain and funnel. For example: the cross-sectional area of ​​a pipe D 100 mm is 78.5 sq. cm. This is the average value.

Depending on whether you have to install the system in regions with high level precipitation, or, conversely, in arid areas, adjustments are made to the calculations.

Methods for attaching brackets

It is worth installing brackets according to the rules at the stage before laying the roof. If the fixation is carried out after the coating has been laid, then ordinary short hooks are used as fasteners.

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Short brackets are attached to the front board so that they create a slope towards the drainage funnel. We calculate how much lower the funnel hook should be than the highest holder. Mark the position of the outer brackets on the board

We screw on the two outer holders: the highest and the lowest, located next to the funnel. We connect them with fishing line or cord

We check with the building level whether the slope is created by the hooks and whether its value meets the conditions specified by the manufacturer of the drainage system

We mark on the front board the places where the ordinary hooks are attached. There should be an equal distance between them; the height is determined by the stretched cord. We fasten the short brackets with self-tapping screws

Step 1: Fitting the short hook to the installation site

Step 2: Attaching the Tallest Holder

Step 3: Checking the slope formed by the holders

Step 4: Fixing the regular gutter holders

Depending on the shape of the bracket, the elements can be attached in one of three ways:

1. Fixation to the roof front board– it is used when it is necessary to install the system on a finished roof.
2. Rafter leg mount– used at the installation stage prior to laying the roofing material.
3. Fixation at the bottom edge flooring or the first plank of the sheathing is used for roofing, the pitch between the rafters of which exceeds 600 mm.

Brackets designed for fixation to the front roofing board are most often included with systems made of polyvinyl chloride.

Suspended structures for fixation to the front board have reinforced vertical ribs, so they can easily withstand heavy loads

Metal brackets for fastening to the front roofing board are made shorter. If the roof structure does not provide a frontal board, combined brackets are used.

They are equipped with extensions made of steel. Due to this, it is convenient to attach them directly to the rafter leg.

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Numbers are placed on the legs of long brackets and a bend line is marked, which should ensure the slope of the gutter

According to the completed markings, the brackets are bent. The work is carried out using a special device

In accordance with the numbering, the brackets are laid out along the sheathing

First, install two extreme brackets, between which a cord is pulled. This line is needed as a guide to determine the slope

Step 1: Marking long brackets taking into account the slope

Step 2: Bend Long Metal Brackets

Step 3: Layout of bent brackets along the slope

Step 4: Marking the line for attaching the holders

If it is impossible to provide access to the rafters, metal crutches are attached to the wall.” They act as a support for further fastening of the metal gutter.

The fixation method, which involves fastening to a rafter leg, is effective when arranging the roofs of houses in regions with heavy rainfall. It is also used when it is necessary to drain water from roofs that have a large area, for covering which heavy coverings are used.

When fastening to a rafter leg, to increase reliability between fastenings, maintain an equidistant distance of 50 centimeters

With this method, the hooks are inserted behind the base and installed at an equidistant distance in order to ensure the desired slope of the gutter.

The third method of fixation, which involves fastening to a sheathing, is most often used when arranging a roof covered with ondulin or metal tiles. It is chosen only if the recesses cannot reduce bearing capacity battens in the eaves area.

To fix the sheathing onto the counter-battens, use combined models of brackets or long metal hooks, deepening them into the long grooves of the mounting strips

When choosing the third method of fixation, it is important to remember that only strict adherence to installation rules and installation procedures can ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutter installation technology

Installation of equipment for drains is carried out after completion of facing work. There is nothing complicated about how to prepare and install a gutter. PVC installation Even a novice master can perform the system.

Assembly and installation of a drainage system includes a number of standard steps:

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Ideally, the drainage system is installed before the roof is laid. But in the case of piece covering, you can remove the bottom row of tiles and carry out the work

Before attaching the brackets, we select the optimal position of the outer holders. They should provide a slope towards the drainage funnel; the width of the gutter should protrude 1/3 beyond the edge of the eaves

According to the mark, bend the legs of the two outer brackets located at the highest and lowest points of the gutter

After installing the two extreme brackets, we connect them by pulling fishing line or twine. This line is needed for precise marking of row holders

At building levels, we check the slope created by the holders

We close the edges of the gutter located near the corner of the slopes with plugs to prevent water from flowing past the funnel

If the length of the slope being constructed is more than 3 meters, then we extend the gutters using a connector that compensates for linear expansion

We fix the gutters installed on the brackets by bending the tongue of the holder

Step 1: Installing additional grating

Step 2: Trying on the bracket to determine the fold line

Step 3: Installing the End Gutter Holder

Step 4: Marking the installation of row brackets

Step 56 Checking the correct slope

Step 6: Installing the Gutter Edge Cap

Step 7: Connecting the Gutter Parts

Step 8: Fixing the gutter with the bracket tongue

After installing and fixing the gutters, drainage funnels are installed at the lowest points of the drainage system, to which drainpipes are connected:

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We remove the part of the gutter to which the drainage funnel and riser will be connected. We apply a funnel to mark the hole through it that we will cut in the gutter

In the place marked on the gutter, drill a hole with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the drainpipe

We place a drainage funnel on the bottom side of the gutter and fix it by snapping the edges onto the edge of the gutter

We return the gutter with the funnel to its place. We connect two elbows to the drainage funnel to bring the main part of the pipe closer to the wall

Step 9: Marking the funnel installation location

Step 10: Drilling a Hole in the Gutter

Step 11: Attaching the Funnel to the Gutter

Step 12: Connecting the downspout to the funnel

Installation of horizontal elements

A set of tools that will be needed during the work:

• marking cord;
• tape measure at least 3 meters long;
• hacksaw for metal;
• universal screwdriver;
• hammer;
• flat bender;
• pipe pliers.

Some craftsmen cut metal gutters and pipes using a grinder. But this is far from best solution, since the rotating disk heats up the polymer coating during operation. And this can cause damage to the drainage elements during operation.

The first step is to install brackets that are designed to support drainage funnels, placing them at a distance of 5-10 cm from the elements

The installation of brackets begins with the installation of the outermost elements. Then the distance between the drainpipes is divided into equal intervals of 60-80 cm in length for the installation of the remaining hooks.

To simplify your task by ensuring a uniform slope of the gutters in the direction of the water intake funnels, it is better to pull the cord when marking. The boundary values ​​of the slope are from 2 to 5 mm per linear meter. To increase the accuracy of installation, it is better to mark several key lines by pulling the string in two or three rows.

If you have to work with metal hook-brackets, before attaching them, they must be bent in accordance with the angle of the roof.

During the installation of brackets, the slope is achieved by moving short fasteners vertically or by bending metal holders at the calculated location.

In order not to disturb the galvanization and not damage the polymer coating, a special device is used to bend the fasteners - a flat bender.

Fix the brackets on the mounting plate at three points using self-tapping galvanized screws, not forgetting to correct deviations from the direction specified by the cord along the way

Collection of the drainage system can be done in one of two ways:

1. Lay out all the elements on the ground in a horizontal position, and then insert the assembled structure into the brackets fixed around the perimeter of the building. This method is applicable for small houses and small finishing areas.
2. The traditional option involves step-by-step assembly all elements of the system directly on the building.

Installation of the drainage system should be carried out in the order “from top to bottom”: first, water inlets are installed, then the drainage risers are connected. This is dictated technological features drainage system.

With traditional step by step version assembly of all elements of the drainage system, installation of the structure is carried out strictly according to the “top to bottom” principle

Before attaching gutters to parts of the roof, funnels are first installed, not forgetting to take into account possible temperature expansions. Then the gutters are installed, placing them 2 cm below the line, which conventionally acts as a continuation of the overhang. They are produced in lengths of 3-4 meters. Gutters that occupy extreme positions in the line will most likely have to be cut.

When installing gutters, it is worth remembering that they must be at least one third covered by the overhang of the eaves. Ideally, the overlap should be half its own diameter.

The gutter is placed in the holders in a slightly bent state, inserting first its far side into the grooves of the hooks, and then the near side, and fixing it by snapping

Roof drainage is a mandatory system when constructing buildings. Its main responsibility is to collect and remove rain and melt water flowing from the roof slopes away from the foundation. Typically, the drainage system begins to be assembled during construction roofing structure before assembling the sheathing. Although situations often occur when the roof is already covered with roofing, but the drainage has not been assembled. As an example, you can replace an old drainage system with a new one.

Before moving on to the topic of the article, let’s consider what the elements of a drain are and what materials they are made from today.

What is a gutter

The system consists of two main elements:

1. Gutters (trays), which are mounted under the overhang of the eaves.
2. Pipes that are attached to the walls of a building in a vertical position.

An example of a house roof drainage system

Additionally, the composition includes:

Gutter material

More recently, the main raw material from which gutters were made was metal, or more precisely, galvanized sheet. Even earlier, gutters were made from ordinary steel sheet, which was painted. The latter gradually went out of circulation. Galvanization is still used today because the material has a presentable appearance, copes well with natural loads and has good technical characteristics.

Scientific and technological progress does not stand still, and today the question of what to make a drain from means the possibility of choosing from several materials. To pure galvanization, galvanized metal is added, coated polymer composition, and purely plastic. Let's look at their pros and cons.

Plastic

The big advantage of plastic is that the material does not undergo corrosion processes when it comes into contact with water. Hence the long service life. Other advantages of a plastic drainage system include:

• Possibility of operation under almost any temperature conditions;
• one hundred percent inertness to ultraviolet radiation;
• presentable appearance, indicated by enormous possibilities in terms of color design;
• ease of construction.

The only thing they're afraid of plastic products- shock loads, under the influence of which they crack and become unusable.

About plastic brackets. It will not be possible to bend them and give the necessary shape to the fastening. In this regard, metal ones are better, they are easier to customize. Therefore, when installing plastic brackets, it is necessary to accurately install them on the frontal board, taking into account the landing site and the height of the roof overhang. True, today manufacturers offer adjustable products in which you can change the angle of inclination using swivel joint. A good option that has proven that it is the most convenient in the category of plastic brackets.

Metal with polymer coating

In terms of their characteristics and service life, the products will not be inferior to plastic ones. But there is one serious drawback - the polymer layer itself. It is not strong enough and can easily be scratched or peeled off with a little force using a sharp tool. Therefore, it is important not to spoil the protective polymer coating when installing a roof drain.

Metal drainage systems with polymer coating

There is no protective layer even in a tiny area, you get a defect through which water begins to penetrate to the metal sheet. The consequence is metal corrosion and reduced service life.

Other options

It should be noted that on the market you can find exclusive water drainage systems made from alloys of copper or aluminum, titanium and zinc. Firstly, the products are marked by long-term operation of the design and increased reliability. Secondly, a design approach to solving the problem of decorating the facade of a house. But exclusive gutters are not cheap, so total mass consumers rarely purchase them.

Types of brackets

This fastener is available in three varieties on the market:

Methods for installing gutters

In this section we will not talk about how to properly install gutters. Here we denote the situations that arise during the construction of this system. The first situation is installation, when the rafters are installed, but the sheathing is not installed.

It's simple, correct option. The brackets are attached to the rafter legs, usually on top of the top plane, but it can be done from the side, from below, bending the devices to the required angle. Side fastening can be used if the rafter thickness is at least 50 mm and the width is at least 150 mm. Often the installation is carried out on the first sheathing element at the eaves, which is also considered the correct approach to the construction of a drain.

An example of attaching brackets to rafter legs

If the roofing material has already been laid on the roof and secured, then the methods for attaching the brackets are as follows::

Rules and stages of installation of a drainage system

Before installing the gutter, you need to prepare everything. A drainage system is purchased. What is included in it was described above. Now you need to decide on the quantity of each element.

The number of gutters is determined by the length of the slopes. They have a standard length of 3 m. For example, if the length of one slope along the eaves is 10 m, then you will have to buy 4 trays. The latter must be cut to the required size.

The number of vertical pipes depends on the height of the building, the distance of the drain to the ground and the length of the slopes. Here are the following positions: the distance from the ground to the end of the drain is 25 cm, the distance between the risers is 12 m. The standard length of one drainpipe is 3 m. For example, the height of the wall to the roof overhang is 4 m. We subtract the length of the drain pipe from this size and 25 cm to the ground. The resulting pipe riser length is 3.5 m.

A clear example of the number of drain risers placed

Regarding the number of risers. The maximum distance between them is 12 m.

1. The length of the slope is 10 m; you can install one riser at one end and direct the gutters in its direction.
2. The length of the slope is more than 12 m, but not more than 24 m; two risers are installed at the edges of the roof, which means their total length is 7 m.
3. The length of the overhang is more than 24 m, three drain risers are installed.

Regarding the remaining elements of the drainage system.

Dimensions of drainage system elements

Dimensional parameters of trays and pipes – important criterion, which determines the effective operation of the entire structure. Because the roof and the drain are united by one factor - water flowing along the roof. The larger its volume, the larger section elements must be selected. Wrong selection leads to water overflowing over the edges, and these are the walls and foundation being poured.

There are certain standards that use the ratio of the area of ​​the roof slope and the diameters of pipes and trays. They are shown in the table.

Here it is necessary to understand that the selection of sizes of system elements depends only on the area from which water drains into them. For example, the length of the slope is 24 m, which means that 2 risers are installed along its edges. Total area The slope will have to be divided by “2”. It is this parameter that must be taken into account when selecting the dimensions of the tray and pipe.

Preparing tools

Before installing gutters, you need to prepare your tools. Depending on the choice: plastic or metal, the complete set of the tool arsenal depends.

So, you will need:

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• hammer drill for drilling walls for fastening risers;
• screwdriver
• long cord, tape measure, pencil;
• level, plumb;
• pliers;
• mallet, hammer;
• ladder.

Cut metal gutters using an angle grinder is prohibited, so it was not included in the list of required tools. At high rotation speed cutting disc cutting metal is accompanied by the release of high temperatures. This leads to disruption of the protective zinc layer. This means that the cut site is an area that will quickly begin to corrode. Regarding plastic, where the grinder is cut, the material melts, losing its properties and parameters.

Installation sequence

Everything is ready, you can proceed to installation work. The drain is a gravity-flow system, so it is important to correctly position the gutters at a certain angle. Its value is 3–5 mm per meter of length of the gutter structure. For understanding, let’s denote that one end of a tray 1 m long should be 3–5 mm lower than the other. For example, the length of the roof slope is 10 m, one edge of the gutter structure relative to the other should be 3–5 cm lower.

Gutter slope options

Based on this, marks are made at the corners of the slope, where the locations of the two outer brackets are determined. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the front board or nails are driven in, between which a strong cord is pulled. This will be the hook installation line.

How to do it correctly to accurately determine the installation locations of the two outer hooks.

1. The first top is installed from the bottom edge roofing material at a distance of 4–5 cm.
2. The exact distance is measured from the nail driven into the designated point to the edge of the roofing material.
3. The resulting size is transferred to the other edge of the slope with the addition of a slope based on the length of the overhang.

Experienced craftsmen do not always use nails or screws to install the cord. They immediately attach the brackets, avoiding unnecessary operations. If both outer brackets are screwed to the supporting base, you can proceed to installing other hooks. It is important to install the latter so that they are oriented relative to the cord with the same parts as the first two installed devices.

There is one more point that must be taken into account when installing brackets. The result should be such that the edges of the roofing material overlap the gutter by a maximum of one third of its width. It is this arrangement that can guarantee that the flowing water will accurately enter the tray without overflowing.

So, the brackets are installed exactly level, you can remove the cord and proceed to laying the gutters.

Installation of the grooved structure

In principle, you can start laying gutters from any side. It is recommended to start from the location of the downspouts. At this point, connections will be made between two systems: horizontal and vertical. The element connecting them is a funnel. Therefore, first the gutter is adjusted to the funnel and the place where the hole will be made in the tray is determined.

It is done with a hacksaw for metal. You just need to make an angle cut on both sides, taking into account the distance between the cuts, equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is recommended to process the cut edges so that there are no unevenness or burrs..

Sawing the hole for the funnel and installing it

A plug is placed on the outer gutter. This can be done on an already installed structure. But it’s more convenient to do this before installation. The edge of the grooved part is inserted into the groove of the plug, where a rubber cuff is located inside, ensuring the tightness of the joint. Now the gutters can be laid alternately with the edges of each joint overlapping. The overlap size is 5–10 cm. Many manufacturers of plastic trays today offer connecting elements, which are gutters 25 cm long complete with rubber cuffs, like plugs. By inserting two gutters with different sides connecting device, you get a sealed joint.

Exactly the same designs are made for funnels. Using them, there is no need to cut holes in the gutters. The latter are simply connected by a funnel to each other. Simple and convenient.

Regarding the attachment of gutters to brackets. There are different fastening technologies. Two types are most often used:

• clamps with throwing the element through the gutter; previously they used ordinary wire;
• The clamps that hold the edges of the gutters together are flexible and hook-like.

Installation of drainage risers

The process can be described as follows: the risers are strictly aligned vertically and attached to the wall of the house with clamps. First, clamps are installed. From the center of the funnel pipe, you need to lower a vertical line along the wall with a plumb line. It's better to beat her off wall surface. It is optimal to install fasteners of this type at the junction of two pipes, a pipe and a drain.

The first clamp is attached to the wall at a distance of 30–50 cm from the ground, taking into account the distance from the drain to the ground and the size of the drain pipe itself. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws into plastic dowels, so holes are made in the wall at the installation points, into which the latter are driven with a hammer.

Please note that the clamp should be located below any joint at a distance of approximately 10 cm.

The riser assembly itself involves installing pipes into clamps and connecting them together using sealant or special connecting pipe elements with rubber cuffs (double-sided couplings). In the first case, this is a socket connection, which is often used when assembling a sewerage system.

Installation process couplings

If the riser is located far from the wall, then it is connected to the funnel with two bends (elbows). Therefore, first, bends are installed on the funnel up to the wall, on which a vertical line is then drawn with its exact passage through the center of the section of the lower bend.

Sometimes two elbows do not connect to each other with pipes. The reason is the wide overhang of the roof. Between them you need to install a piece of pipe, which is cut from the pipe element of the riser. The distance between the branch pipes is measured, and 3–4 cm on each side is added to the obtained value. The allowances are the joining edges for fitting into the bends. Important - you need to correctly connect both outlets through the cut pipe to each other. First, the pipe section is put on the upper branch, that is, the elbow pipe should be inside it. Then the second elbow pipe is put on the second free end of the pipe section. The first one should be inside the second one. Both joints are treated with sealant.

Video instructions for DIY installation

Conclusion

So, we discussed the topic of how to properly install a drainage system. Manufacturing materials, elements and assembly technology were analyzed. Despite the apparent simplicity of the installation process, this is not an easy undertaking. It requires care and accuracy. The main thing is to accurately mark the location of the gutters. Because making a drain, that is, assembling it, is easier if the calculations and markings are done correctly.

Problems with constantly wet foundations and damp walls the buildings are familiar firsthand to many owners of private cottages. The best option The solution to problems of this kind is the installation of a plastic drainage system.

Features and stages of work on installing a plastic drain

Of course, when purchasing and installing a drain, every owner of a private home “cherishes the hope” of spending once and not thinking about excess moisture again for many years.

In this regard, before purchasing a drainage structure, he must carry out comparative analysis gutters made from different materials. We will conduct the same analysis by comparing metal and plastic systems:

• almost all types of plastic drainage systems are distinguished by great structural diversity; they can have a rectangular, round or even shaped shape;
• when hitting plastic pipe(gutter, funnel) masses of water flow down almost silently (unlike a metal gutter);
• galvanized steel gutters even the most high quality inferior to their plastic counterparts in this regard important parameter, as a period of trouble-free operation;
• the production of high-quality steel products is many times more expensive than the production of plastic structures;
• all discussions about the imaginary fragility of plastic drainage systems have no basis in evidence. Many years of experience in their use is a serious confirmation of the durability and reliability of plastic systems;
• due to low weight plastic construction it is very easy to assemble and install. In addition, with this approach it is possible to reduce the load on a number of structural elements of the building;
• probability of leakage in option with plastic drain– very small. This is primarily due to geometry. plastic elements designs.

About preparatory work

A well-drafted project for future assembly and installation work - good opportunity reduce real costs. First of all, you need to decide on two the most important moments: the number of drainage pipes and the length of the hanging gutters of the system.

Based on these two parameters, you can calculate the number of other auxiliary elements that require installation. We are talking about drainage funnels, clamps and holder brackets, corner bends, plugs for gutters, and so on.

The diameter of gutters and pipes is usually selected based on two indicators - the roof area of ​​the building and the approximate amount of precipitation falling in a given area (see special tables).

The number of necessary auxiliary parts will again depend on the area of ​​the roof and its configuration (how many slopes). If we are dealing with non-standard or complex roof, you should, among other things, take into account every break and angle. In the case of a very long roof (length), the drainage funnels of the gutters should be located at a distance of no more than 24 meters from each other.

About installation of gutters

Exists general recommendation for installing a gutter, - observe an angle of 2 degrees when installing the structure. In order to ensure a smooth drainage system for moisture from the roof, we recommend using a simple and reliable method. We install a pair of outer brackets with a pre-calculated interval, and place the remaining brackets along the rope with an interval of 60 centimeters and attach them to rafter system or front boards.

The uppermost ends of the gutters should be located three to four centimeters below the edges of the roof slopes. In this case, the snow mass will enter the drainage system without delay.

The outer edges of the gutters should be located below the inner ones, then if water overflows over the edge, it will not fall on the wall surface.

High-quality roof gutters should be installed in such a way that moisture collects in the middle of the gutters. For this purpose, special gaskets are used, which are placed under the bases of the brackets.

Installation of the gutter is carried out in the direction from the roof to the ground. There are two main ways to seal connections. In this case we're talking about about permanent adhesive joints and rubber gaskets. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The joining of adjacent elements is made using understatements. Each assembly part must be inserted all the way. For option with rubber gaskets There is a fairly serious drawback - they will have to be changed over time (this is inevitable). Replacing a failed drainage system part yourself is a rather difficult and time-consuming process.

The standard length of plastic gutters for roof gutters is three or four meters.

It is known that cutting plastic is very simple work. However, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum. Each of the burrs formed during the work should be removed using a knife or file (thus, the contact of the joints is improved).

If you have a small one-story house, and you have made a choice in favor of the adhesive type of connections - the gutter can be assembled on the ground.

An important point: installation of gutters is difficult without outside help.

About the installation of funnels

Water inlet funnels are attached to the gutter or to the surface of the wall (in the second case, the funnel simultaneously plays the role of an additional support and connecting part of the gutter). In the option of hanging the water collector on the gutter, it is necessary to make a drain hole in the wall of the gutter.

Water collectors are one of the key components of the entire system. If leaves or other debris gets inside the funnel, it can cause the passage to be blocked. The result of this is often the rupture of drainage pipes. In this regard, it would not be superfluous to equip the funnels with “options” for collecting garbage (we are talking about nets and spiders).

About pipe installation

Most often, when installing a drainage pipe to a wall, an elbow with an angle of 35 degrees is used. The use of such an elbow ensures smooth water flow in the future.

The structure is fastened to the wall using two (or more) clamp holders (the interval between clamps is 2 meters). The recommended interval between the drain and the wall surface is 3 centimeters. This figure can be used as a guide when cutting sections of pipes connecting elbows (here it is necessary to take into account the length of the connecting sections inside and the length of the fittings on the outside).

Water jets are attached to the lower ends of the pipes, which are necessary to drain water flows from the walls.

If we are talking about installing a drainage system in a house where people will live on a permanent basis, it is worth investing in a heating cable. This option is a good way to prevent ice in pipes, catch basins and drain funnels.

Video: Installation of PVC gutters