Did we do the right thing, many of us ask ourselves, by ordering or purchasing a ready-made log house? Of course yes! Better wooden bath no, and there won't be. Whatever modern materials have not been invented, there is no alternative to real wood.

The only thing that can really be a little concerning is the capriciousness of this very wood in terms of processing and operation. But if everything is done correctly, then there will be no problems with this. Now let's look at one of the aspects proper construction baths, namely laying the first crown of the log house.

Preparation

Many people have probably heard that in the old days the framed (first) crown was often laid directly on the ground, wrapped only in birch bark. Now no one will dare to do this, and rightly so: good foundation- one of the keys to the durability of future construction. Therefore, before assembling the log house on site, the support for the bathhouse must be completely ready.

We will begin the construction of walls by laying two “embedded” logs. Before assembly, they (and the others too) had to be marked accordingly. They can also be easily identified by diameter and length. Thicker round timber is always chosen as the basis of a log house, and if they are going to lay the foundation for a cold dressing room, then they are made much longer than the rest of the logs of the log house. Well, another sign of the constituent elements of the first row is the connection of the logs in the corners into the so-called “paw”. This, however, applies only to logs chopped “into a bowl.”

Read also: Mold in wooden house: how to deal with it?

So, these logs have been selected, you can start working directly. And we will start with laying waterproofing. You can use the familiar roofing material as it, or better if it is possible to treat the foundation with bitumen.

Backing board: to be or not to be

When constructing log houses, some builders practice laying a backing board or plank on the foundation. Their task is to separate the first row of logs from the cold stone, and accordingly, increase the durability of the wood.

Many, of course, consider this point controversial, because in their opinion this will in no way extend the service life of the log house. If engineering communications If they are carried out incorrectly or are missing altogether, then no lining will save the tree from damage. If the board rots, the crown molding will also rot.

In general, this is food for thought, but if you still think this necessary element, then treat the board several times with an antiseptic. Its thickness must be at least 40mm.

Work order

Regardless of whether you laid the board or not, before laying the mortgages, their lower part must be cut off. This is necessary in order to ensure their stability on the foundation. They do this with a chainsaw, cutting off the top of the log. The edge size should be at least 12-15cm. The horizontal positioning is checked by a level.

Read also: Installation of the roof of a wooden house

Next, the transverse (small) logs of the first crown are found and placed in their places, while aligning the marks made on them with the markings applied to the embedded logs. This is done in order to avoid distortion of the log house. If they are missing or you need to make sure that the correct shape of the cell is maintained, an additional diagonal is set.

A gap is formed between the transverse logs and the foundation, slightly smaller than the diameter of the log. It needs to be sealed, of course. This is a very interesting point; if you do the work incorrectly, you can later become the owner of a cold bath.

There are two ways to solve the problem:

1) A subcut is a piece of log equal in length to the resulting gap. They are prepared in advance from the same forest that was cut down. By removing the required layer of wood from the bottom and top sides, the log is adjusted to the desired size.

Having tried it on and made sure that it fits freely, but with minimal gaps, in its place, we put it in place.

Having removed the small logs, we carefully caulk the places where the undercuts adjoin the mortgages. Then we lay a layer of moss or other inter-crown insulation on top. After which we put the transverse logs in place.

-> Sections of the site -> Log house -> Do-it-yourself log house -> The first (framed) crown of the log house.

The lower crown works in the most difficult conditions - close to the ground, more wet than other crowns during rain and snowfall. Therefore, traditionally, special attention was paid to its production.

Before laying the first (lower) crown of the log house, do not forget about waterproofing, which is 2 - 3 layers of rolled bitumen waterproofing material, laid between the foundation and the logs to prevent the walls from getting wet from the foundation.

The first (flashing) crown is made from the thickest logs.

If you have such an opportunity, then it is best to make the first crown from the types of wood that are most resistant to rotting. Larch or oak are best suited for this purpose.

It is obvious that sides 1, 3 and 2, 4 are at different horizontal levels, which differ in height by half the diameter of the log. Therefore, the first crown, from which the entire frame begins, can be realized in two ways.

Despite some inconveniences, such a crown will be more durable due to the fact that the logs are subject to minimal processing and remain almost solid.

To prevent rotting of the logs of the first crown, special attention must be paid to thoroughly antiseptic surfaces in contact with waterproofing (hewn surfaces). Before laying, coat the hewn surface with an antiseptic using a brush 3 - 5 times. By the way, this is the only place in the bathhouse where I used antiseptic.

Backing boards should not be coated with melted resin (bitumen) or wrapped in roofing felt. A tree clogged with resin or wrapped in roofing felt will rot very quickly.

An inter-crown sealant is laid between the foundation waterproofing and the backing board, between the backing board and the first crown.

The process of making a crown molding is shown in a series of videos frame (first) crown of the log house.

The framed (first) crown of the log house is video technology.

Cover crown. Part 2. Chopping logs

The crown of a log house is one solid horizontal row of timber or logs, which are laid perpendicular to each other and fastened in the corners. These rows form the walls of the house. There are several types of crowns depending on location. The first row is called the frame, the second is the lower trim, then the window sills go to the beginning of the window. To create openings for windows, rows of windows made of shortened lumber are used. The remaining log house is occupied by rows above the windows.

Before laying, each log or timber must undergo drying and antiseptic treatment. High-quality dried and treated products will last longer. They will not become covered with cracks, mold or rot, and will remain presentable for a long time. appearance and initial physical properties. And in order for the lumber to dry evenly both inside and outside, experts recommend using a modern safe one.

Technique for laying crowns

The trim crowns are laid first and are made from thick, powerful and durable timber or logs. After this they put bottom trim. At the same time it is very important building level check the evenness of the rows and lay the lumber evenly. In addition, you need to check the angles using the diagonal method. To do this, measure the diagonal of the crowns and, if necessary, change the position of the row by moving the desired end.

Special attention should be paid to window crowns and installation of window frames. To install these rows, shortened materials are used. In already assembled log house install a socket or casing box. This wooden frame, which is installed in the window opening. It prevents the formation of cracks and deformation of the window structure during shrinkage.

Experts recommend assembling the log house in separate parts. And only then the assembled parts are laid on the installed foundation. And to strengthen and stabilize the structure, the first row of the building is cut from the bottom side. After shrinkage, the log house is insulated. To do this, make caulk and lay insulation between the crowns. Jute and acrylic sealant. More details on how and with what to insulate log or timber walls, read.

Assembling a log frame and laying crowns is a rather difficult task that requires certain knowledge and skills. Without following construction technologies, the walls will turn out uneven, and the frame will be moved. In addition, improper masonry will not provide reliable thermal insulation. The house will be blown out, and moisture will accumulate on the lumber. This will lead to the formation of mold and rot, and the gradual destruction of wooden walls.

To avoid problems, contact professionals. The “MariSrub” craftsmen will reliably and quickly assemble the log house and lay the crowns evenly, competently and correctly. We carry out construction and finishing wooden houses according to standard and individual project, we produce lumber, install the foundation and roof, conduct and connect utility networks, we insulate the log house.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: Repair of the most vulnerable part wooden house- lower crowns - the work is very labor-intensive. Usually it requires the involvement of specialized teams with appropriate equipment, but in some cases it can be done with your own hands. It all depends on the type of foundation and the extent of damage to the wood of the lower crowns of the house.

Repairing the most vulnerable part of a wooden house - the lower crowns - is a very labor-intensive job. Usually it requires the involvement of specialized teams with appropriate equipment, but in some cases it can be done with your own hands. It all depends on the type of foundation and the extent of damage to the wood of the lower crowns of the house.

Types of repairs to the lower crowns of a house

Let's consider the types of repairs, as well as the technology for performing work in each of the possible options.

Repair without raising the house:

• with replacement of a section of the lower crown;
• complete replacement of the lower crowns with fragments of logs;
• replacing the lower crown with brickwork.

Repair with house raising:

• replacement of the crowns of a house with a pile (columnar) foundation;
• replacement of the crowns of a house with a strip foundation.

The specified types of repair of the lower rims are arranged in order of increasing complexity of production. Replacement without raising the house can be done independently, without outside help. Raising a house requires synchronizing the efforts of at least two people working with jacks to avoid distortion and destruction of the house, or its sliding off the foundation.

Preparing the house for replacing crowns

The first stage of replacement is to strengthen the structure of the log house. Even if you do not plan to lift the house with jacks, it would be useful to strengthen the structure. Used for strengthening wooden beam thickness of at least 40 mm, located vertically along the outer and inner surface walls.

The lower edge of the beam should be located at the level of the crown, which is not subject to replacement, the upper edge - at the level upper crown log house The screed bars are attached to the wall with nails. At the top and bottom points they are fixed with a tie (dowels of at least 10 mm) through a through hole drilled in the wall (log). The ties are located at a distance of 300–400 mm from the edge of the section of the crown to be replaced, or in all inter-window spaces of the wall.

Scheme for replacing a section of log

First, the affected area of ​​the wood is determined. It is visually difficult to understand how widespread the rot has become. To accurately determine the damage, use either a chisel, which is used to chisel the log from the side of the visible area of ​​​​the damage, or a feather drill for wood, which is used to drill holes using an electric drill.

The condition of the wood is determined by the condition and color of the chips. Having decided on the area to be replaced, they retreat 200 mm to the sides from its boundaries, and using a chain saw or electric saw, a section of the lower crown is cut out. After this, waterproofing is laid on the foundation in two layers.

Replacing a crown part. 1. Damaged area. 2. A cut area with a margin of at least 10 cm from the identified damage. 3. Liner

In the unaffected areas of the lower crown, notches are cut out with a saw for more reliable fixation of the insert element. The lower part of the second crown is treated with an antiseptic. An insert is cut from a log of the appropriate diameter; its length should be 10–20 mm shorter than the cut section.

The length of the notch should correspond to that on the undamaged areas of the lower crown. After this, the insert is installed (hammered with a sledgehammer) into the opening and the existing cracks are caulked with moss or other available material.

Thus, it is possible to gradually replace the entire perimeter of the rotted crown. Replacement begins from the corners from the bottom log of the frame.

Alternatively, it is possible to replace the damaged area without wooden inserts, but brickwork.

Replacing a log house on a columnar (pile) foundation

This is a simpler option because it does not require demolition of the foundation. The distance between piles or foundation columns is usually sufficient for installing jacks. To prevent deformation of the log house and its sliding off the posts, it is advisable to lift the house simultaneously from all four corners of a simple rectangular log house. Only in extreme cases is it possible to lift only one side of the house.

The jacks are placed under the top log of the frame. A support is placed under the jack to prevent it from falling into the ground ( wooden shield not less than 500x500 mm). The jack rod should not rest directly on the log, but should have a metal gasket-plate. After lifting with jacks, the lower beam of the dressing is freed from the load and can be replaced. Temporary supports made of logs or bricks are installed on it and jacks are lowered.

At the same time as the jacks, the upper logs of the frame will also be lowered. They are also replaced and immediately jacked up. After this, the temporary supports are removed from the lower logs of the dressing and the jacks are lowered. The log house is falling into place.

Replacing the crowns of a log house on a strip foundation

This work is the most difficult because it requires either partial destruction of the foundation to create niches for installing jacks, or the use of a lever system for lifting the corners of the house.

Replacing the crowns, as in the case of columnar foundation, begin by replacing the lower logs of the frame. To do this, niches are dug in the foundation at a distance of 200–300 mm from the corners of the house under the top dressing logs. After installing the jacks, the replacement procedure is similar to that described above.

When using a lever system, foundation destruction is not required. The initial stage is to remove half the thickness of the top log of the log frame 1000–1500 mm from its edge from all four corners of the log house.

After this, a metal channel or rail is placed in the resulting niche, and the corner of the house is raised using a jack. As it rises, wooden wedges are hammered between the foundation and the channel (rail) until the lower beam of the dressing is freed from the load. It is removed and temporary supports are placed.

Next, knock out the wedges between the channel and the foundation and remove it. The top log of the dressing is released and can be replaced with a new one. After this, the channel or rail is reinstalled and the house is raised in the same way, using wedges. Temporary supports are removed and new lower logs of the frame are laid. By lowering the jacks and knocking out the wedges, they lower the frame onto the lower beam of the dressing. The frame fell into place.

Despite the technology for replacing the lower rims of wooden log houses, which has been developed over the centuries, this work still remains very labor-intensive and requires great physical strength. It is impossible to do it alone. But it's not just a matter of physical activity, but also in the need to synchronize the lifting of the log house at 2 or 4 points simultaneously. And when complex design log house - in more more points. However, replacing only the lower crowns is a much less labor-intensive process than completely overhauling the entire frame. published

Any construction is always divided into several interconnected successive stages. Starts the development process project documentation, completes interior decoration. By analogy with our life, which actually consists of little things, in construction the final result also depends on all the constituent elements. In particular, each row of the wall of a log house or bathhouse.

The crown of a log house is a whole row of logs interconnected in a horizontal orientation. Includes all outdoor load-bearing walls and internal walls called pereruby. The logs in each crown are connected to each other by a corner notch. They are built end to end (if necessary) in a long wall, with fixation on a forged bracket during assembly. The cutting of logs is done taking into account the joining of logs in the cuts. If interior wall in this place is not needed, the docking is masked with a false cut. The diameter of the log within one crown is always the same at the top. The lower embedded rows are sometimes cut from larger diameter than the rest.

The crowns are laid between each other during assembly using insulation (jute). The upper and lower ones are fixed wooden dowels(dowels). Which prevent displacement, arching, and torsion of rows in the wall of the house. These materials (together with other fasteners, components, lumber) are included in the log house kit. Supplied for assembly with a log house. The package for the first crown usually includes a board made of Larch. There are also “house kits”. This is the name for building materials - made in the form of disassembled walls for a project from timber or rounded logs (without a log house kit). Log houses, due to the lack self made, such options cannot be named.

When preparing for felling, the deflection of timber is taken into account. Each log is at least barbed (Hydroblow, Strug, Skobel). Some of the log houses are planed with a planer. Especially in winter, when it is easier (and cleaner) to plan a frozen log before cutting, and water hammer due to low temperatures Due to the nature of the technology, air cannot be used. Almost every log house, for the beauty and durability of the wall surfaces, is sanded half a year / year after assembly on the foundation. All inter-crown connections are subject to double-sided caulking afterwards. Exception - Canadian cabin good quality.