Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for roofing. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step by step instructions will help you do this without serious errors.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable price;
• lightness of the main elements.

Pay attention! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness but are quite large in size, there is still a risk of damaging them if installed carelessly. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

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Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Pay attention! Do not cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

• a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
• the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
• the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but in the course of the work it is necessary to involve a certain amount Human. Usually 1 person is required for 1.5-2 linear meters sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is installed between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm on all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

Typically used as sheathing edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows can be installed metal profiles. Pass-through type snow guards are optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

Metal tiles have firmly taken a leading position when choosing roofing coverings both among professionals and individual developers. Installing metal tiles with your own hands is a realistic task. You just need a little effort and careful attention to each stage of creating a roof. Our instructions will help you perform the installation correctly.

The first thing you need to do to order a roofing kit is measure ready-made structures roofs. The measurement results are plotted on a plan sketch of the roof. The following quantities are measured:

• The length of the roof slope is the distance from the ridge to the edge of the eaves board. It is recommended to measure three times: along the edges of the overhang and in its central part. The starting and ending reference points are the outer edge of the wind board and the middle of the ridge.
• The lengths of the cornices and the lengths of the ridges should be measured along the entire perimeter of the building.
• The lengths of all internal corners (valleys) and external corners(ridges).
• On the roof sketch you need to include all ventilation shafts, dormer and dormer windows, chimneys, antennas.

Based on the roof plan with the measurement results printed on it, sellers will calculate the quantity and sheets of metal tiles, moldings, fasteners, and necessary accessories.

Preparation of roof structures

Before you start installing metal tiles with your own hands, you need to make sure that all elements rafter system installed correctly. The lathing and counter-lattice are in place, the integrity of the insulating membranes is not compromised. The geometry of the roof overhangs must also be checked. The pitch of the sheathing must correspond to that specified in the accompanying documentation for the metal tiles. The cross-section of the sheathing is calculated depending on the pitch of the rafters and the snow load. The thickness of the first sheathing board from the eaves overhang may be of a different section. The recommended cross-section of the sheathing is usually indicated in the design documentation. In the absence of a design, metal tile suppliers may be able to help you calculate the cross-section. The pitch of the rafters, the cross-section of the rafters and the cross-section of the sheathing differ significantly in the Krasnodar Territory and in Arkhangelsk. If the pitch of the rafters on the roof is more than 900 mm or the construction is carried out in an area with a large snow load, additional sheathing or continuous flooring should be made between the boards in the eaves for attaching roof safety elements (snow guards, roof fencing).

In the ridge part of the roof, one additional board should also be mounted to fasten the ridge elements, and in the valleys (inner corners of the roof), if any, additional boards should be placed between the main sheathing to strengthen these corners and prevent deformation of the metal tiles.

When making a metal tile roof with your own hands, special attention should be paid to the issue of ensuring ventilation of the under-roof space. In the eaves part, air should flow freely and be removed from the ridge part, flowing around, ventilating and drying the underside of the coating sheets on which condensation accumulates. There should be no stagnant air zones or dead-end cavities on the roof.
Violation of this rule can lead to the formation of ice under the metal tiles on the slopes and in the eaves of the walls, leaks during periods of constant thawing and freezing, accumulation of ice and icicles in the area drainage system, very rapid destruction of the sheathing and other negative consequences.
Metal tile installation technology in instructions various manufacturers provides several ways to organize condensate drainage in eaves units. The most correct unit, from the point of view of providing ventilation, is when air penetrates into two cavities: air gaps are provided in the cavities between the sheathing boards and in the cavities between the counter-lattice. Thus, both metal tile sheets and waterproofing are ventilated.
When doing metal roofing with your own hands, you should not forget: everything wooden structures must be treated with fire-bioprotective compounds. Most budget composition– ordinary lime milk. Our ancestors have been painting wooden structures with lime milk for centuries. The modern construction industry offers a variety of easily applied and effective fire-bioprotective coatings.

Warehousing and storage of sheets

Metal tiles are usually supplied in measured lengths in sheets up to 7.5 meters. Sheets should be stored in flat surface on wooden spacers installed at intervals of 500 mm. The stack of sheets must be covered and weighted, for example, with one or two sandbags. This will prevent the sheets from moving due to sudden gusts of wind. The sheets are lifted onto the roof using two guide boards. Sheets of metal tiles should be held by the side edges where the waves are stamped.

Installation of metal tiles is carried out using the following tools:

• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Mallet with rubber head.
• Soft brush.
• Tape measure with fabric measuring tape.
• Rake with level.
• Marker.
• One of the devices for cutting profile sheets:
  • Manual circular saw. Used for cutting sheets with large cutting volumes.
  • A jigsaw with an impressive supply of fine-toothed files.
  • Special nozzle for cutting metal for an electric drill.
  • Scissors for cutting metal.

ATTENTION! IT IS PROHIBITED TO USE AN GRINDER. When cutting with this tool, the polymer coating is damaged both in the cut area and across the entire plane of the sheet when hot sawdust falls on the polymer coating and burns through it. Manufacturers void the warranty on sheets cut with a grinder.

Installation step by step

1. Brackets for the drainage system (if provided) should be installed in increments of no more than 700 mm.
2. Fasten the eaves strips with galvanized nails at the rate of 3 fastenings per meter (300 mm pitch). The overlap of the planks should be 100-150 mm. Waterproofing membrane should be placed ON the strip, but should NOT be left hanging in the gutter or sticking outside the eaves. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the films are destroyed. Trim the waterproofing on the eaves trim.
3. Installation of metal tiles can begin from any gable. Depending on the location of the capillary groove on the sheets, when joining sheets, the side edge of the previous sheet must either be lifted or simply overlap the edge of the next sheet. The first sheet must be carefully aligned with the roof slope and temporarily secured at the ridge and at the eaves (one self-tapping screw 4.8x25 mm each). The optimal overhang of sheets in the eaves is 40 mm. More overhang can lead to deformation of the edge of the sheet.

1. While continuing to lift and install the metal tile sheets, temporarily secure 3 more sheets, aligning them along the eaves line and with each other. Fasten the sheets together, ensuring an even and tight joint.

1. Once again, check the position of the sheets, check the overhang of the sheets in the eaves (40 mm), and, if necessary, align them relative to the eaves. Aligning a block of sheets relative to the cornice can be done by rotating around the fastening of the first sheet to the cornice. The temporary ridge screw must be removed.
2. Secure the block of metal tile sheets with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. Fastening of metal tiles should be done with self-tapping screws with a sealing gasket. When fastening the sheets to each other, 4.8×19 self-tapping screws are used, and the sheets are fastened to the sheathing using 4.8×25 mm self-tapping screws. Previously, total consumption self-tapping screws can be taken at the rate of 7–10 pieces per square meter. The sheets should be fastened to each other at an angle close to 90°, and the self-tapping screw should not be directed directly into the capillary groove. The sheets are attached to the sheathing at a distance of 15 mm under the wave, through two waves. In the cornice, ridge and pediment parts - through one wave. Before screwing in the screw, make sure that it will hit the center of the sheathing and will not cause the wood to chip along the edge of the sheathing board.

1. Repeat all operations with three to four more sheets, and then along the entire roof slope. If the funny sheets are not of a measured length and you need to join the sheets vertically, then the installation is carried out according to the so-called “2+2” scheme: first, one row of two panels is connected vertically, and the next row is superimposed on it. The amount of overlap of the vertical joint of the sheets is 100 mm.

1. In the ridge part of the roof you need to nail an additional board, with a cross-section 10 mm higher than the ordinary sheathing. To ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, the distance from the central axis of the ridge to the edge of the roof profile must be at least 80 mm. Install a ridge ventilation tape along the top of the metal tile sheets. Ridge strips should be secured with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the profiles. The installation pitch of the screws is from 300 to 800 mm, the overlap of the ridge strips is at least 100 mm. If there are stamped grooves, the connection is made along them.

1. Install the end (pediment) strip so that it covers the upper edge of the wave. Fasten the end strip in increments of 300–600 mm. The gable strips should be installed from bottom to top, from the eaves to the ridge. The overlap between the slats is 50–100 mm.

Construction of valleys and junctions

The interior corners are completed after all full-size sheets of metal tiles have been laid.

1. In valleys, additional sheathing boards should be installed, and in case of large snow load and the likelihood of snow bags forming in valleys, make continuous sheathing from boards. In this case, ventilation gaps of 20 mm must be left between the boards.
2. From bottom to top, from the eaves to the ridge, lay a valley gutter from a bent flat sheet. The vertical overlap at the junction of sheets is 200 mm, the width of the gutter is 500 mm from the valley axis in each direction.
3. At a distance of 100 mm from the valley axis in each direction, draw a marking line with a marker, along which you can subsequently cut the sheets adjacent to it.
4. Attach a universal seal to the valley gutter.
5. Sheets should be trimmed based on the results of measurements and calculation of the distance from the joint line to the marker line on the valley.
6. Attach the trimmed sheets to the sheathing at a distance of at least 250 mm from the valley axis in the nearest place at a distance of 15 mm under the wave stamping.
7. If the edge of the cut metal tile is uneven, the valleys can be covered with decorative overlays. Do not use sealants under decorative trims!

Pipe lining

For passing single elements through the roof, such as ventilation shafts and chimneys, aprons made of flat galvanized sheets with a polymer coating are used. Aprons are installed from the inside, from all sides. The overlap of the galvanized steel apron on the pipe wall on any side must be at least 150 mm. The junction of the aprons to the pipe is sealed with sealants. To drain water that gets under the metal tile, a “tie” is installed - a flat sheet with a small flange connecting the apron and cornice. After installing the apron, tie and sheets of metal tiles, abutment strips are additionally installed at the joint.
The scheme for arranging junctions with walls provides for the installation of junction strips both in a groove in the wall (a groove cut or left in the masonry) and directly on a flat wall with sealing of the joint.

Installation of accessories

If it is necessary to make ventilation outlets, stairs, walkways, roof railings, they should be attached directly to the sheathing through sheets of metal tiles and using universal synthetic gaskets. The technology for installing accessories is detailed in the instructions for them.

Safety precautions

Installation of metal tiles must be carried out wearing protective gloves, safety glasses (when cutting metal tiles), and shoes with soft, non-slip soles. When working at height, you should use a safety belt and rope. It is not recommended to install metal tiles during strong wind and rain.

Care and maintenance

According to the instructions, maintenance of a metal roof consists of inspecting it annually, cleaning valleys, inlet funnels, gutters and ventilation gaps from leaves and debris. If loose fastenings of sheets of metal tiles and molded products are detected, the self-tapping bolts should be tightened and the cornice, end and ridge strips. Scratches on the roof must be treated with repair polymer compounds. Snow cover does not stay on metal tiles for long, but if snow accumulates on the eaves in a layer of more than 150 mm, the roof must be cleaned. You should not resort to the services of “professionals” to clear the roof of snow with crowbars. Compliance with simple technology for installing metal tiles and the rules of proper roof maintenance will provide your home with reliable roof for several decades.

Metal tiles are a popular material for roofing. It has excellent technical characteristics and modest weight. It is customary to invite specialists to install it, but you can carry out all the work yourself, following the step-by-step instructions and observing the necessary criteria.

To install metal tiles with your own hands without errors, you must follow the following rules::

1. Sheets of material are laid in two methods: from the left side to the right and vice versa. In the first option, the previous sheet must be superimposed. In the second, each subsequent sheet is laid overlapping the previous element.
2. Each sheet is not attached immediately and entirely. Before screwing the material, lay 3-4 sheets and lightly secure them with fasteners to secure them. Make sure they are in the correct positions and adjust them if necessary. For final fastening, one self-tapping screw is used. And it permeates all the sheets.
3. The service life of the roof is seriously affected by the quality of the screws used. Use galvanized products with special seals on the heads. They will hermetically close all holes when the self-tapping screw is fully screwed into the hole.
4. In those areas where one fastener fixes several sheets at the same time, compaction occurs. To smooth it, cut off part of the corner, or straighten the capillary pit located under the stamping line.
5. The end strips are fixed with an overlap of 2 cm. The wave parameter is adjusted to the width of the slope. Otherwise, there will be a ridge on the pediment.
6. The cornice strip also has an overlap. It is 10 cm and is located on the lower sheathing bar. The plank is fixed to it with nails.
7. The roofing strip and the tile sheet must be separated by a layer of sealant.
8. The components located below the ridge are equipped with single-module sheets. For the pipe and window opening you need 2 pieces each.
9. If there is a sloping roof slope, an aerial roller is installed. It is located between the metal tile and the ridge strip. Thanks to this measure, precipitation will not fall under the ridge.
10. The skate is fixed to the bars located at the end general design. The calculations take into account the required protrusion (2-3 cm). If the ridge is flat, then the fastening is arranged with an overlap. When working with semicircular analogues, fasteners are based on the profile line.

Before installing thermal insulation, a vapor barrier is first placed on the rafters. The maximum layer of material to retain heat is 25 cm. An antioxidant film is mounted on it, and fastening occurs with wooden blocks to the rafters.

To ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, fix the thermal insulation with a slight allowance (2-3 cm).

Technology and instructions for installing metal tiles

This work consists of several stages:

1. Carrying out calculations.
2. Waterproofing is being installed.
3. A counter-lattice is created.
4. The brackets are attached to the drain.
5. The sheathing is installed.
6. The cornice strip is installed.
7. Endova joins.
8. Sheets of material are laid and fixed.
9. Additional elements are mounted (ridge, end strip, etc.)

Preliminary calculations are necessary to determine the required amount of materials. Mathematics comes down to the following operations:

1. Calculating the area of ​​each slope;
2. Calculation of the effective parameter of a sheet of material. From its total area it is necessary to subtract the area in the overlap.
3. Determining the number of rows of material on the slope. Its functional length is divided by the width of the tile sheet.
4. Counting the number of sheets in a line (row).
5. Multiplying the number of rows and sheets in each of them. Here you should also take into account the overlap parameter, which is approximately 15-20 cm.

There is guaranteed to be enough material if you round all the figures up.

It is useful to draw up a material calculation diagram. For example, she might be like this:

Also, before purchasing, pay attention roof angle. He must be at least 11 degrees. This is the minimum indicator for installation.

For the work itself you will need the following tools:

1. Metal scissors.
2. Electric drill.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Roulette.
5. Hammer.
6. Special tape for installation.
7. Marker.

Also provide yourself with a stepladder and protective equipment(glasses and gloves).

In addition to metal tiles, the work requires the following:

• materials for waterproofing;
• roofing strips;
• aerorollers;
• ridge and end strips;
• boards 2.5 x 10 cm;
• guide board;
• screws and seals for them.

Laying waterproofing

The most popular materials are polyethylene films. Better to use diffusion membranes. They can be laid on insulation boards without fear of condensation. from the insulation side.

The arrangement scheme is as follows:

A vapor barrier is a barrier that blocks moisture from entering the interior of the roof. It is located at the very bottom of the roof formation, under the rafters, to which it is mounted, and with thermal insulation. It is also protected from condensation.

Installation of counter-lattice

The counter-lattice forms a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing. Its slats should be installed in significant increments. Between them there is a void filled with air.

The counter grille does not carry a load-bearing load, but performs the following functions:

1. Support for workers when creating the main sheathing.
2. Protection of waterproofing from damage and sheathing from moisture.
3. Fixing the waterproof film, keeping it from sagging less.

Its installation itself is carried out in this order:

After these steps, the main sheathing boards are installed. Work starts from the cornice.

Attaching brackets for the drainage system

In solving this problem, one should rely on the following criteria:

1. If the wall is three-layer, the brackets are attached only to the surface layer. With a density of 9 cm, the anchor deepens by 6 cm, and with a density of 12 cm, by 8-9 cm.
2. If the wall has two layers, the fastening component is placed 6-9 cm deep and goes into the next layer.
3. The penetration into a single-layer wall is 6-7 cm. Screws or expansion dowels are used for fastening.
4. If the wall is wooden, the holder is attached with self-tapping screws. A sharp long rod is used.

Myself installation of a gutter takes place in the following algorithm:

Installation of sheathing

Since metal tiles do not have an impressive mass, they do not require the creation of a powerful foundation.

The sheathing is nailed to the rafters. The distance between the initial and subsequent boards is 35-40 cm between the centers of the boards. The curves of the sheet matter here. This indicator is different for different models metal tiles.

It is worth knowing that you cannot install rafters above the windows themselves!

In areas where there are valleys and metal tiles adjacent to the pipe, as well as near the windows, a continuous sheathing is created.

This component is attached after creating the front board, which is held at the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails.

The fastening goes in this order:

1. Hemming the veneer board to the front section of the base.
2. Attaching the support beam to the wall. It becomes a support when installing the overhang of the curtain rod system.
3. Installation of brackets on the drain. Places for their attachment: rafter legs or cornice board.
4. Assembling the bar itself. The areas where it is placed are those areas where the drain connects to the cornice or front board. The screws are spaced at least 30-35 cm apart from each other.

In this work, for each such component it is necessary to attach an additional board. The process starts from the bottom and gradually moves up. An overlap of 25-30 cm must be maintained.

Below the eaves line, the bottom strip is cut. After which a flange is arranged, and a sealant is placed under it.

The sheets of material and the axle are separated by a gap of 8-10 cm.

Screws are screwed into the cut material 1.5 cm from the stamping line. The fastener is 25 cm away from the axis. So the sheet at the fastening point is joined to the board on which the valley is concentrated.

The valley below is installed before the roof is laid. Thanks to this, the water will flow directly into the additional component.

Installation of metal roofing according to the valley arrangement scheme it looks like this:

To cover areas where cut material is visible, use decorative overlays.

Valley design diagram

If the beginning or end of the valley is located directly on the slope, a separate board is placed, a hole is created in the tile sheet for the window, and a ceiling in the form of a plank is made for the eaves cut. In this situation, a sealant is laid along the walls.

Laying and fastening metal tile sheets

This work begins on a rectangular slope, or rather on its right extreme side. In the reverse direction, each new sheet is placed under the previous one.

The technology for installing a metal tile roof on a triangle slope is based on the following criteria: the initial sheet is placed in the middle of the slope. Other sheets are mounted to it on both sides.

Procedure for laying metal tiles here's the next one:

1. Laying the initial row. The sheets are not firmly fixed, but are grabbed at one point and then aligned with each other at the edge of the slope. Their first line hangs from the cornice by about 4-6 cm. The process begins on either side: right or left.
2. Fixation with self-tapping screws through the wave. They are screwed tightly, but their O-ring is not pinched.
3. At the joint section, the corner is cut, this eliminates the seal. You can straighten the capillary pit under the stamping.
4. The process is duplicated for the second and subsequent lines.
5. Fixing the end strips. They are laid with an overlap of 2 cm.

Installation of the ridge, the end strip of the metal tile and the connection to the wall

The ridge is mounted in the following sequence:

How to lay metal tiles on the roof? For heating or ventilation pipes Aprons are arranged. Work goes like this:

The end strips are fixed with an overlap of 2 cm. The wave parameter and the width of the slope must be identical. Otherwise, the ridge will be placed on the pediment.

Video: Installation of metal tiles - video instructions.

Installation of snow guards

These devices can be tubular, lattice and angular. The first ones are recorded in this order:

1. Creating device location markings.
2. Reinforcing the sheathing with an additional bar.
3. Assembly of the structure. Bolts are not tightened.
4. The installation itself is to the roof, in which holes for fasteners are created. Only the lower wave adjacent to the sheathing is suitable for their placement.
5. Connection to the ramp with bolts. 0.8 x 6 cm. Step – 30-50 cm.
6. Waterproofing of holes - rubber gaskets are used.
7. Inserting the tubes themselves.

If there is an attic, they are arranged above everyone window openings. Their distance from the extreme part of the roof is 40-50 cm.

The latter are placed at a significant angle where huge volumes of snow are concentrated. The maximum height of the grille is 20 cm.

Still others are fixed with self-tapping screws or steel corners, always on the upper wave of the material. Variations of arrangement: chaotic or in one row.

Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bitumen shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical characteristics make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of best options for home decoration. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

• light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;

It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.

• simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
• large assortment color solutions;
• the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
• the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
• the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased level noise on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before we begin reviewing the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.

Looking at photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from the best method in in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

• different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
• special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
• elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
• internal and external valleys;
• other necessary elements– wall profiles, pediments, eaves strips of metal tiles, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.

Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.

So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:

• presence of polymers;
• how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
• production date and period warranty period material use;
• manufacturer's name;
• sheet thickness.

During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.

Important! If we're talking about about material purchased from major manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.

Useful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow you to correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.

When purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.

Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands

In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• measuring tape;
• hammer;
• marker;
• mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. itself, you will also need fastening elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Useful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.

How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work, before proceeding with installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced foundation, it is completely regular one will do wooden, made of slats.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that when attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.

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Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss, and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, first lay on the rafters vapor barrier material, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.

This “pie” is the maximum efficient system thermal insulation of the roof, which is allowed by the installation technology of metal tiles. As for the choice thermal insulation material, then there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules

Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:

1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
2. There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw that passes through all the sheets.
3. The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary groove, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

• the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
• for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
• It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
• for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
• if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aeroroller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;

• The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
• It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.

Useful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether installation is possible specific model ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need complete replacement the entire roof covering.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, like under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

• installation must be done from the bottom up;
• a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
• the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
• fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, we can consider the case when a dormer window is installed. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge, special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. Bright polyurethane foam is used as an auxiliary material, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

• extremely high level resistance of the material to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
• due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout the entire service life;
• the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
• multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
• due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
• using this option is a great saving since there is no need to big step between fastenings. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two disadvantages - large number residues after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:

• For various models of this material, it is necessary to prepare various lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
• in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
• on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
• the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
• Before installing the material must be removed protective coating, since this may not be possible in the future.

It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a metal roof covering

After studying the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal tiles is polymer material, which is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

• remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
• If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning products, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. Use aggressive chemicals strictly prohibited, as they destroy protective layer and render the material unusable;
• cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
• It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of damaging the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes when installing a metal roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

• installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
• It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
• Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
• when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
• You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.

Taking these simple rules into account, as well as acting in accordance with the technology for laying metal tiles, you can make a beautiful and reliable roof yourself.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow exerts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.

In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow retainers for metal roofing: how to attach correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow retainers for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow retainers on the roof of a metal roof, use self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in metal tiles

It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where rafter step very small, they install two small windows in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tiles if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A clear demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.

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Laying the roof on the roof and installation drainage system– the final stage of building a house box, depending on weather conditions. All further construction work interior spaces can be performed at any time of the year and in any weather, which greatly simplifies and speeds up the construction process. Roofing work is carried out at high altitudes, this creates additional difficulties and requires unconditional compliance with safety regulations.

The roof covering is carried out in the most difficult conditions, maximum care and caution is required. The roof is one of the most important elements of any building or structure. That is why experienced builders who not only theoretically know all the intricacies of the work, but also have solid practical experience, should lay metal tiles on the roof.

The fact is that life is much more complicated than any book; none of them can foresee all the problems that arise during roofing works situations. This article will give practical advice and detailed step-by-step instructions are considered, the knowledge gained will help you take it yourself right decisions to solve various problems.

Working at height is dangerous; it is highly undesirable to be distracted by faulty tools. Before starting work you need to check them technical condition, replace cutting elements, etc. Professionals strongly advise buying a special carpenter's belt. It has many different pockets and securing devices hand tools and hardware, they are always at hand, attention is not diverted to searches, time is not wasted.

Coating technology requires preparing the following tools:

Important. It is strongly recommended that, at the same time as purchasing metal tiles, you purchase a can of the same paint. It is necessary for painting cut areas, scratches on the surface of sheets and other minor mechanical damage roofs.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Preparatory activities

To ensure that unforeseen situations do not arise during the work, the process does not slow down and the quality of the roof does not deteriorate, all your actions need to be thought through and divided into several stages.

The first stage is delivery of materials

It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the roof slopes, calculate the number and length of valleys and ridges, and draw a drainage diagram. Based on these data, store employees, using special program will calculate the optimal quantity of each element, hardware and calculate the amount. It is not necessary to immediately order the material; you can make such calculations in several trading enterprises and, based on the available information, choose the best one for yourself. suitable option. You should immediately agree on the delivery of the roof; the length of the car body must be no less than the length of the metal tile sheets.

Practical advice. If such a car is expensive or difficult to find, then you can nail it to a short body long boards. Roofing can also be transported over short distances using such adapted vehicles.

Immediately select a site for storing materials, level its surface, and, if necessary, make a temporary canopy.

The second stage is the manufacture of fixtures

You must have at least three devices; they significantly speed up the process of installing metal tiles and increase work safety.

Name of device	Purpose and brief description
	Used during installation of cornice strips and drainage system. At the top it has two special legs that rest against the wall of the house. Due to this design, the possibility of damage to the overhang of the tiles is eliminated, and the gutter does not bend. The ladder is lightweight and can be moved to a new location without any problems if technologically necessary.
	They not only make installation work much easier, but also make it safe. On two-story houses Scaffolding must be installed and have special handrails for support. They can be homemade or factory-made; there are a large number of options for making scaffolding; a specific one should be chosen taking into account individual conditions.
	Outwardly it looks like a wooden staircase; in the upper part there are special hooks for fixing it to the roof ridge. Allows you to move along the installed roof without damaging it. It makes the process of screwing in self-tapping screws, bypassing chimneys, and sealing joints much easier. This device is considered mandatory according to safety requirements.
	The simplest device. It is enough to fasten together two parallel boards of the required length. The device is used to feed sheets of metal tiles onto the roof of a house.

You need to work in shoes with soft and non-slip soles; clothing should be loose, not interfere with movements, and without hanging parts.

The third stage is checking the dimensions of the rafter system

It is not too late to eliminate the problems of the rafter system. First you should make sure that the slopes of the gable roof are rectangular. This is done simply, you need to measure two diagonals, if they are the same, everything is normal. If there is a difference, then the defect must be eliminated. Triangular slopes should have the shape of isosceles triangles, check the location of the vertex, its projection should be located exactly in the middle.

At the same time, you need to take measurements of the distance between the sheathing slats. These parameters depend on the type of metal tile.

Stage four - roofing work

You should only start with them careful preparation. You need to check the weather forecast and choose sunny days. This is especially important if you plan to make a warm roof. Mineral wool gets wet quickly and takes a very long time to dry. If a problem occurs with the insulation already laid between the rafters, it will have to be removed. This not only takes a long time, but can also cause mechanical damage to the insulation.