Outdoor toilet with a cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. New home and even small dacha should delight owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for construction if you approach the design wisely and use modern materials and technologies. When building a house, the drainage system is laid out at the design stage, along with other engineering communications, but even in an old house it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort.

All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewerage system, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the installation of communications inside the premises will be the same for these cases; the only significant difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.

General principles for installing sewerage in a private house

Fundamentally, the sewer system in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of smaller diameter, through which wastewater from a sink, toilet, etc. flows into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into horizontally located large-diameter pipes, and from them into the centralized sewerage system or local autonomous wastewater treatment plants.

When planning a sewer system in a house under construction, it is worth placing the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewer line goes out onto the street. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.

In a large house with a large number of bathrooms and a complex sewer system, installation is rational. sewage pump. A pump may also be needed if the area has absolutely no slope.

When designing a sewer system, the following are also taken into account:

• landscape of the site - wastewater flows down and the septic tank or cesspool should be located at its lowest point,
• the type of soil, its freezing and the height of groundwater - the depth of external sewerage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities depend on this

Selection of materials

At the present stage, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride are the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require a welding machine for assembly. In addition to pipes, you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with sealant.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the pipe diameter is from plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then pipes of a larger diameter should be taken.

Installation of pipes and plumbing connections

Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in a computer program. All horizontal pipes internal sewerage should slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. If you need to turn the pipe 90 degrees, it is better to do it smoothly, using 2 elbows at 45 or 3 elbows at 30 degrees, to prevent blockages.

The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent waste from entering them.

The sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are equipped with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped in a layer mineral wool or cover with a plasterboard box.

Sanitary fixtures are connected to the pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Foul gases from the sewer system cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathtubs are sold already with a siphon, for others you will need to purchase it additionally; toilets have a built-in siphon.

The riser is connected to external pipes using horizontal pipes of the same or larger diameter located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory at turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe runs in the ground or in an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the point of exit from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and connected to the external sewer through a hole in the foundation.

Sewer pipes are attached to the walls using clamps. Additional fastenings are installed near the points of insertion into the riser, connections and transitions.

Sewage ventilation

A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example from a toilet cistern, moving through a pipe, creates an area of ​​​​discharged space behind it. If there is no air entering the system, water leaves the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe, and appears bad smell. For this reason, the sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.

For the pipe, the risers are extended to the roof; the upper end is not closed, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently; an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from being discharged in the pipe.

External sewerage

Outside the home, it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. To lay them, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured onto its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep burial, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.

Inspection hatches are installed at the connection point to the house and near the junction with the central sewerage system or autonomous wastewater treatment plants. It is advisable to install it in a pipe check valve. It will protect the house sewer system from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool overflows, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.

Treatment plants

An autonomous sewer at the end may have:

• cesspool,
• biological treatment station.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can only be recommended for dachas where people do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. A biological treatment station is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. A septic tank is the best option; you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.

A properly designed and installed sewer system will make living in own home even more comfortable.

A cozy country house is the dream of every city dweller, which can be overshadowed by the lack of practical, functional communications. Indeed, private houses are considered residential buildings, and modern people are accustomed to living in comfort. You perceive resources such as electricity and water supply not as a luxury, but as natural needs, which are quite normal and even natural to have in your private home. Needless to say how important normal sewerage is in it.

Purpose and choice of sewerage

Wastewater disposal has a specific universal name - sewerage. It can be centralized, that is, connected via pipes to central sewer networks (usually in a city), or autonomous.

The need for an autonomous sewer system is very strongly felt outside the city or in the private sector, consisting of individual houses and buildings. These can be not only residential, but also public and industrial buildings, the activities of which involve wastewater disposal.

As one of the most important utility systems, sewerage can be divided into two main parts:

In order to correctly and rationally choose the type of sewerage system for your private home, and not make mistakes, be guided by the following parameters:

• Number of consumers (residents) in the house;
• The volume of water consumption per person, taking into account all plumbing fixtures in the house;
• Dimensions of the adjacent plot;
• Soil properties;
• Degree of groundwater occurrence;
• Features of the climate.

All current sewerage installation rules are described in more detail in SNiP 2.04.03-85. “Sewerage. External networks and structures."

Types of autonomous sewerage for a private house

There are different ways to arrange drainage in a private home. Each of the methods listed below has its own advantages and disadvantages, weighing which it is usually not difficult to make your optimal choice.

• cesspool- the most ancient and simplest method of waste disposal, which not long ago had no analogues at all. The primitive design of such a sewer system is a shallow pit with unreinforced walls and without any bottom protection. After it is filled, the hole is covered with earth, and a new one is made in another place. The construction of a cesspool is more or less practical with a very small volume of wastewater, not exceeding 1 m3. The modern version of the cesspool is arranged with reinforced concrete or brickwork its inner part, and a gravel cushion (20 - 30 cm) for soil post-treatment of wastewater. The principle and scheme of operation are very simple: water from the drains, falling to the bottom of the pit, seeps through the gravel base, fecal dense masses accumulate in the pit, and are periodically pumped out by sewer trucks. The addition of aerobic bacteria, which also help fight unpleasant odors, speeds up the wastewater processing process. The cesspool is designed for a small number of plumbing fixtures, and is practically not done in modern country houses. Main disadvantages: low permeability, the bottom of the pit should be located at a distance of a meter from groundwater;

Photo: cesspool from concrete rings without bottom

Important!
Construction of a cesspool, regulated by SNiP rules. To prevent contamination of soil and groundwater, its location must be no less than:

• 3 m from the fence;
• 5 m from a residential building;
• 10 m from the garden;
• 20 - 50 m from a source of drinking water.



• Storage container or tank– a ready-made and inexpensive version of such a container is widely available on the market today, made from HDPE plastic. You can also equip it yourself, using concrete rings and metal tanks. Principle and scheme of operation: wastewater flows into the container through connected pipes by gravity. Specialized plastic sewer tanks are reinforced over the entire area with stiffening ribs, which also make them as stable as possible during installation. Their body is quite durable. They are equipped with an inspection hatch for pumping out wastewater, which should be insulated for the winter. The deepening of such tanks does not require wastewater control, and does not require any special preparation. The only drawback is that the container needs to be emptied frequently.



Important!
The location of such a tank on the site of a private house must be foreseen in advance, since it must be convenient for subsequent cleaning using a sewer truck.

• Septic tank– an autonomous sewerage device that provides wastewater treatment. There are single- and multi-chamber septic tanks, with a passive or forced cleaning process. The simplest is a single-chamber septic tank. In essence, this is the same cesspool, the bottom of which is strewn with a sand and gravel cushion. You can make it yourself from a large container, reinforced concrete rings, or by strengthening the pit with brickwork. The walls of such a septic tank are carefully waterproofed to avoid soil contamination. Disadvantage: low permeability of wastewater, periodic replacement of silted sand and gravel bed.

Photo: single-chamber septic tank with sand and gravel bed

A two-chamber septic tank is a more advanced design, but its design is simple. It provides several compartments: a settling tank and a filtration well. Such a septic tank is made from ready-made HDPE or fiberglass, providing technologically advanced water seals that allow wastewater to flow in only one direction. There are also inspection hatches and additional chambers for preserving oxygen with vents. This is done so that natural aerobic bacteria can be used in the first chamber of this septic tank, helping the cleaning process and eliminating unpleasant odors. Oxygen is required for them, since this process is accompanied by fermentation and decomposition into the elementary components of the main waste biomass.


Photo: diagram of a two-chamber septic tank

This simple structure is often made with your own hands, monolithic or prefabricated from reinforced concrete rings. Its internal part is reliably waterproofed. The material is relatively comfortable, but extremely durable with sufficient waterproofing measures. A monolithic septic tank can be made quite spacious. Its production is more labor-intensive than prefabricated concrete, since to pour concrete it is necessary to install formwork and a connecting reinforcing cage that strengthens the structural elements. The pouring process itself is associated with filling, compacting and subsequent drying of the resulting structure. Such work should be done only during the warm period of the year. A prefabricated concrete septic tank is assembled from separate concrete rings, welding them together “in mortgages”, and coating the joints with mortar and bitumen. The resulting well is divided into two halves by a partition in which a small pipe outlet or blocker is placed. Plastic two-chamber septic tanks sometimes provide soil post-treatment in the form of an additional chamber with water diffusers into the soil through pipes. The output of a two-chamber septic tank produces purified water for technical needs. The septic tank itself requires periodic cleaning of flotation cake and sludge accumulations using a sewer truck.


Photo: monolithic concrete septic tank

A septic tank with biofiltration is a structure of several separate or interconnected chambers, the filtration process in which occurs in a passive mode. Operating principle: multi-stage filtration using various bacteria. The best solution the first stage of purification will use anaerobic bacteria, which do not need oxygen. In the inner part of its last chamber, saturated with oxygen from the aeration tank, a biofilter is placed. It consists of a lattice with a colony of aerobic bacteria placed on it, and a backfill made of expanded clay or granular polymer. This chamber creates ideal conditions for the life of bacteria. The water here is purified up to 95%, which makes it quite suitable for technical needs.

Photo: diagram of a septic tank with biofiltration

Three- and four-chamber septic tanks are the most advanced septic tank designs for a private home at the moment. They are produced by companies that produce specialized equipment for autonomous closed sewers. This means that they do not need any soil treatment. Such devices are so advanced that the usual rules of retreat from residential buildings, penetration into the soil, control of groundwater and climatic changes do not apply to them. All cameras are united by one durable plastic case, and connected by interlocking pipes, the cleaning process is controlled by electronic system sensors, and the movement of wastewater along its internal part is ensured by one or two powerful pumps that can easily cope with volley discharges of water. To provide life support for aerobic bacteria, oxygen is also forced into the septic tank chambers. This septic tank needs to be cleaned once every 3-6 months (depending on the volume of wastewater). And it’s not even difficult to do it yourself without the help of specialists. All that is needed for its operation is a small pit slightly larger than the septic tank itself, pipes and power supply. They are also called deep biological wastewater treatment stations. The only drawback is that it is not a cheap pleasure. However, wastewater treatment with such systems is possible up to 98%!

Photo: diagram of an autonomous sewer system for a private house

When deciding to properly install sewerage in your private home, you need to pay attention to the following features:

• Before starting all work, it is necessary to make a project of the entire sewer system, which will display its entire diagram, pipes with all elements, a septic tank, as well as calculations for its permeability;
• It is best to insulate external sewer pipes so that the water in them does not freeze in frosty weather. Recommended pipe diameter is 100-110 mm, minimum angle slope of gravity sewer - 5 o;
• Connections of sewer pipes must be reliable and sealed, any leaks are excluded.

Equipping a private home with an autonomous sewer system is a very important and not so difficult job. Guided by the rules of SNiPs and SanPinas, you can assemble it yourself, equip it reliably and correctly, providing yourself and your loved ones with exceptional comfort for many years.

From this article you can learn how to create a sewer system in a private house with your own hands: a diagram on the basis of which the construction of a waste system is carried out, its phased production with useful tips and recommendations from specialists, information on pipeline laying and related procedures. Review of popular types of sewage systems, their features, specificity for suburban areas and prices for them.

Unlike city apartments, not every private or country house has all the communication systems. Therefore, the owners of such housing are forced to install them themselves in order to ensure basic comfort conditions. If the organization of this system, along with water supply, was initially included in the building design, then there should be no problems with their construction. It is much more difficult if you have to turn on the sewerage system diagram in a private house, which is already ready.

The simplest option for implementing such an idea would be a project in which the sink and shower are installed inside the building, and the toilet is located outside it on the street. In this case, you can do without complex work on laying the pipeline, as well as installation of treatment facilities. This scheme involves removing the sewer pipe from the house and supplying it to the sewer pit.

The second option is more difficult, since the toilet, shower and sink in this case are located inside the building. If you make incorrect calculations or violate the system construction technology, there is a risk of contamination of the site and the water located nearby with waste. In such situations, you cannot do without a septic tank.

Useful advice! Experts recommend placing the toilet, bathroom and kitchen areas nearby. Due to this, it is possible to organize a single collector, thanks to which the waste liquid will be directed to a waste pit or septic tank.

How to choose a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house

To choose the right sewerage system and scheme for its creation, you need to consider the following factors:

• whether the house is used for permanent or temporary residence;
• groundwater level;
• the number of people living in the house on a permanent basis;
• daily water consumption taking into account the needs of residents and household appliances such as a dishwasher or washing machine;
• climatic conditions;
• area of ​​the summer cottage to determine accessible areas for installation of a cleaning system;
• type of soil and features of its structure;
• regulatory requirements of SNIP.

Conventionally, existing sewage systems can be divided into two categories: storage and purification. A more detailed classification will allow you to choose the type of system that suits the operating conditions, since even schemes of the same type can have significant differences.

A cesspool is most often used for areas with a house used for temporary residence, for example, only a week a month. This does not consume a large amount of water. An important condition is that the groundwater level lies no higher than 1 m from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, water pollution from wastewater is inevitable. This type sewer system is rarely used in modern construction.

Storage tanks are used for the construction of sewerage in a private house with a high groundwater level. Since the tank is sealed, there is no risk of waste contaminating the soil. However, this system has disadvantages. Firstly, additional costs, associated with the need to call a sewage truck for periodic pumping of wastewater. Secondly, the plan will have to provide a place for this equipment to enter the site and its placement.

Types of sewers in a private house with your own hands: photos and features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks are the simplest soil purification systems. Their principle of operation is in many ways similar to cesspools. The scheme is suitable if the groundwater does not lie high. If the house is used for permanent residence and there is active use of water, then it is not recommended to use a single-chamber septic tank for the construction of a sewer system.

Two-chamber septic tanks also depend on the location of the groundwater level. It is desirable that they lie at least 1 m below the bottom of the system.

Useful advice! In order for the sewage system in the form of a two-chamber septic tank to function normally, it is recommended that the sand and crushed stone that was used during construction be changed every 5 years.

Septic tanks with biological filters are considered the best sewage systems in a private house where people live on a permanent basis. To process waste, special microorganisms are used, which are poured into the water. There are no restrictions on such sewage, you just need to connect to the electrical network.

A septic tank with a filtration field carries out two methods of cleaning at once - soil and biological. The tank is divided into two sections. Installation of such a sewer system is possible only if the groundwater lies at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. Construction will require a significant amount of free space. Moreover, the distance to neighboring buildings, as well as the nearest water sources, should not be less than 30 m.

Aeration tanks or systems with forced air supply are very expensive, but due to their advantages they justify the money spent. Such structures are not limited in terms of installation, however, they require a power source and the constant presence of people. The minimum price of sewerage for a private house with installation in this case is approximately $4,000.

How to properly make a sewer system in a private house yourself

The construction of any communications must be carried out according to a previously developed and approved project. Such a project usually has a diagram for creating internal and external sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands.

The internal system includes:

• risers;
• highways;
• areas for connecting plumbing fixtures.

Plumbing fixtures include items such as a shower stall that does not have a tray, a bathtub, a sink and a toilet. The internal system ends with an outlet pipe. This element is located at the level of the foundation part of the building.

When arranging an external sewer system in a dacha with your own hands, there must be an external pipeline that ensures the drainage of wastewater from the building, as well as storage or purification equipment. When the project is ready and approved, you can determine the optimal diameter and size of the pipes, as well as the amount of material required for the work. At the same stage, a sewer collector is selected.

Useful advice! During the construction process, it is better to rely on the requirements regulatory documents. SNIPs will help you decide how to properly install a sewer system in a private house, as well as eliminate errors in the design process.

Choosing a place to install a septic tank for the sewage system of a country house with your own hands

When installing a sewer system, choosing a location for installing a septic tank is extremely important. The following factors influence its placement:

• depth of groundwater;
• relief features of the site (since the movement of water within the system is carried out by gravity, the slope of the territory should be taken into account);
• soil freezing level in winter time;
• placement of drinking water sources;
• soil structure.

Sandy soils have a loose structure. Due to this, liquid can easily pass through the soil, so there is a possibility of contamination of groundwater with waste.

When installing a septic structure, it is important to adhere to certain requirements:

1. The distance from a residential building is at least 5 m.
2. Distance from the source of drinking water (well) – 30 m.
3. The distance from green spaces is at least 3 m.

In addition, it will be necessary to equip an area for the entry of sewage disposal equipment.

Arrangement of internal sewerage for a private house: how to organize the work correctly

On the diagram of the internal sewerage system in a private house, you need to mark all the points of the system with your own hands. First, the central riser is installed. Optimal diameter pipe is 110 mm. To ensure that gases leave the room without hindrance, the riser should be installed so that its upper part is discharged into the attic or protrudes above the level of the roof of the building. The central riser must be located at a distance of at least 4 m from the windows of the building.

Next, a horizontal pipeline is laid. Installing inspection hatches will allow you to monitor the condition of the system and promptly clean it. These elements must be placed at the lowest point of the sewer and above the toilet.

For each plumbing fixture, it is necessary to provide a siphon with a water seal. This will prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. When laying a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, it is recommended to avoid turning at an angle of 90°. These elements make it difficult to move wastewater.

The pipe coming from the toilet is connected directly to the system. To do this, it is better to use a pipe with a minimum diameter of 100 mm. For the bathtub and sink, you can take a smaller pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The line should be placed at an angle that will ensure the movement of liquid. You also need to make a blank in the foundation for a hole to bring the system out. A check valve must be installed on this pipe to prevent wastewater from flowing back into the system.

Useful advice! If it is not possible to eliminate 90° turns, the rotating area of ​​the pipeline can be made from two 45° corner pieces.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation technique in a private house: preparation for installation of a septic tank

The design is a two-chamber collector, the sections of which are connected to each other using an overflow pipe. To begin with, a pit is dug 3 m deep of the required volume, taking into account the number of permanent residents in the house. It can be formed manually or using special equipment (excavator). At the bottom it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion up to 15 cm thick.

Then a formwork structure is formed on the basis of chipboard or boards. It must be strengthened with a reinforcing belt, which is made of metal rods. Dressing is carried out using steel wire. After this, you need to make two holes in the formwork and install pipe scraps in them. This will create the entry zones for the system main and the overflow pipe connecting the sections.

The formwork structure is concreted. To ensure that the solution is distributed evenly, you need to use a vibrating tool. The septic tank must be monolithic, so it is filled once.

Related article:

Review of available methods for treating wastewater. The operating principle of various sewerage devices.

Instructions for installing external sewerage: installation of a two-chamber septic tank

The bottom of the first compartment must be formed by pouring concrete. The result should be a sealed section that will be used as a sump. Here the separation of solid large fractions will occur, which will settle at the bottom. Clarified, partially purified water will accumulate on top. Due to the connecting pipe, it will flow into the adjacent compartment.

Useful advice! The use of aerobic bacteria will enhance the decomposition of solid particles.

There is no need to organize the bottom in the second compartment. The section is manufactured on the basis monolithic walls. Laying one on top of the other will also work. The recommended diameter size is 1-1.5 m. A thick cushion of sediment is formed at the bottom of the compartment, which acts as a filter for wastewater. Pebbles, crushed stone, and gravel are suitable for these purposes.

An overflow pipe is installed between the two compartments. Tilt angle 30 mm each linear meter. This pipe is located at the level of the upper third. Most often the owners summer cottages when installing a sewer system in a private house, they use a two-section design, although it is possible to equip a septic tank even with 4 compartments, which will provide best level cleaning.

You can also make the ceiling for the septic tank yourself. For this, formwork and concrete are used. As an alternative, reinforced concrete slabs can be used. It is mandatory to install an inspection hatch that allows monitoring the exhaust and filling of sections. Then the pit must be filled with soil or sand. The septic tank should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Organization of sewerage wiring for a private house: how to lay the pipeline correctly

A line must be laid from the area where the sewer pipe leaves the foundation to the septic tank. The pipeline must be located at a slope, which will ensure the drainage of waste water. The larger the diameter of the pipes used, the smaller the angle of inclination required for full operation of the pipeline. The average is 2°.

In the diagram, the depth of laying sewerage in a private house with your own hands should be below the level of soil freezing in winter. The average is 1 m. In warm regions, there is no need to deepen the pipes; 0.7 m will be enough. If the house is located in a cold region, the depth should be increased to 1.5 m. At the bottom of the trench, before laying the pipes, you need to form a dense sandy layer pillow, compacting it well. This procedure will allow you to securely fix the pipes and prevent the destruction of the main during seasonal mixing of soil.

The most optimal scheme for a summer cottage would be to lay a direct pipeline from the house to the collector. If necessary, you can perform a rotation. A manhole can be installed at this location. Pipes made of cast iron or plastic intended for external sewage are suitable for work. Recommended diameter is 110 mm. All joints must be sealed. The trench with the laid pipeline is first filled with sand and then soil.

Useful advice! If the trenches for pipeline installation are shallow, the pipeline must be additionally insulated using thermal insulation materials.

Features of the construction of country sewerage without pumping

Systems that do not require pumping are usually represented by designs of two- or three-chamber septic tanks operating simultaneously. If the system has two tanks, at least ¾ of the structure is allocated to the sump, for three-chamber tanks - half. In the first section, heavy fractions settle. As it fills, the liquid is poured into the second compartment, where light particles are separated. In the third section, the water is fully purified from waste and supplied to a drainage well or filtration fields. It is important that the two containers are sealed.

This type of system also requires pumping, but not as often as with a conventional septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal pump for sewage, the price of which depends on the manufacturer and power and varies between 2,700-25,000 rubles. This equipment is used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump.

The frequency of the procedure is affected by the composition of the wastewater and the size of the tank. The structure must be cleaned when the height of the sludge reaches the overflow level. Over six months, about 60-90 liters of sediment accumulates in the tank. Based on this data and the capacity of the container, you can approximately determine how much time between cleanings.

To find out the required volume of a septic tank without pumping, you should multiply the daily rate of water consumption per person (200 l) by the number of residents and add another 20% to the resulting result. If the groundwater level is high, it is recommended to carry out concrete screed or lay a concrete slab for reinforcement.

A hole in the ground is dug taking into account the size of the septic tank. Add to this a minimum of 20 cm on each side, or better yet, even more. The pipes are laid on a sand bed in a similar way with a slope to a depth of 0.7-0.8 m.

Construction of a sewer system in a private house: installation price

The price for installing a turnkey septic tank is determined taking into account:

• features of excavation work, for example, the formation of a pit or supply trench;
• the need to build a system for soil purification;
• the cost of laying sewerage per meter in the ground (depending on the type of pipes and the length of the line, the average price is 35-65 rubles per 1 m);
• installation of the necessary equipment;
• need for construction additional system disposal of treated wastewater, etc.

Most often, if turnkey installation of septic equipment is carried out, 2-3 people are involved in the work. Since installation of the structure is carried out manually, there is no need to use specialized heavy equipment. As a result, the landscape remains untouched, and the owner of the site has a chance to save significantly. Changes to the site cannot be avoided if underground sewerage is being laid. The price per square meter of work performed is included in the total cost of turnkey work.

Useful advice! To ensure that the system elements do not move during installation and do not float up, it is recommended to carry out the procedure of concreting the body.

If there are soils at the dacha that do not have filtering properties, like sand, installation work will increase significantly in price. Such soils include loam and clay. To ensure normal conditions for the full functioning of the system on the territory, it will be necessary to form a bulk-type filtration field.

The price of installing a sewerage system in a private house on a turnkey basis:

Septic tank model	Price, rub.
Tank	from 18700
Cedar	from 79900
Uni-Sap	from 56000
TopBio	from 111700

Installing a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

As in the case of a residential building, the bathhouse sewerage system includes internal and external systems. Even if the building has a dry steam room, liquid drainage from the shower will be required. The water collection system depends on how the floors are installed. The sewerage diagram is included in the bathhouse design at the development stage and is laid out at the initial stage of construction even before the floors are installed.

If you plan to install wooden floors from planks, then the elements can be laid closely or with small gaps. If the covering is installed tightly, the floors are formed with a slope from one wall to another. Next, you should find the lowest point near the wall and leave a gap in this place, where the gutter will subsequently be installed (also with a slope). At the lowest point of its placement, a connection is made to the sewer discharge pipe.

Important! If the sauna sewage system involves collecting liquid from several rooms, including from the toilet, it is imperative to install a riser with ventilation.

If the wooden flooring will be made with cracks, small gaps (5 mm) should be left between the boards. Under the floor is done concrete base with a slope towards the central part of the room. A gutter and sewer pipe will be installed in this area. Instead of a concrete base, you can lay it on top of an insulated floor metal pallets under wooden flooring. If the floors are self-leveling or tiled, a water inlet ladder is installed at the lowest point of the slope, which drains the wastewater into the pipe.

A step-by-step guide to building a sewer system in a bathhouse with your own hands

To install sewer pipes, you need to form ditches with a slope of 2 cm by 1 m. Their depth is 50-60 cm. A cushion should be made at the bottom of these trenches. To do this, pour a layer of sand 15 cm thick and compact it thoroughly. At the same time, do not forget about the slope.

Next, the sewer line is installed. Polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are laid in trenches. If necessary, a sewer riser is installed. It needs to be fixed to the wall using clamps. Ventilation must be provided. When the system is ready, the floor covering is installed using one of the previously discussed methods.

Upon completion of all work, the drains and gratings provided for by the project are connected to the system in the designated places. In the area where the water inlet connects to the outlet pipe, it is advisable to install a siphon. It will prevent odors from the sewer from penetrating back into the room. Most often, ladders are equipped with built-in water seals.

On sale you can find gutters made of asbestos cement, plastic or cast iron. It is not recommended to use wood and steel products, because they quickly collapse under the influence of moisture. The minimum permissible gutter diameter is 5 cm. If the project provides for a toilet or other sanitary equipment, it is installed and connected. This concludes the work on organizing internal sewerage. The external system is performed in the manner described earlier and can be a septic tank or a drainage well.

Construction of a sewer system in a private house: ventilation diagram in a bathhouse

Air exchange in the bath can be organized in various ways. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. Having studied the specifics of each method, you can choose the best option for a bath.

The first method involves creating a hole intended for feeding fresh air. It should be located behind the stove at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level. The exhaust air will be discharged through the hole on the opposite side. It must be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor. To enhance the movement air flow at the outlet you need to install exhaust fan. All openings are covered with gratings.

Useful advice! The lower the ventilation hood is placed, the more intense the air exchange process will occur. It is important not to overdo it with the steam room in this regard, otherwise significant heat loss will occur.

The second method involves placing both holes in the same plane. In this case, the work will affect the wall opposite the one where the stove is located. The exhaust duct is placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor level; at a similar distance from the ceiling, you need to make an exhaust hole and install a fan in it. The channels are closed with gratings.

The third method is suitable for floor coverings, where the boards are laid with gaps to drain liquid. The entrance hole is made at a height of 0.3 m from the floor on the wall behind the stove. In this case, there will be no need to install an outlet channel, since the exhaust air will exit through the gaps between the boards.

Do-it-yourself installation of an autonomous sewer system in a private house: video and recommendations

Polypropylene is used as a material for the manufacture of autonomous sewers, characterized by low weight, environmental friendliness, strength and high rate thermal conductivity. Wastewater treatment is carried out by certain types of bacteria that feed on organic waste. Oxygen access – prerequisite for the life of these microorganisms. The price of an autonomous sewer system in a private house is much higher than the cost of installing a conventional septic tank.

This is due to the numerous advantages of autonomous systems:

• high level of wastewater treatment;
• unique aeration cleaning system;
• no service costs;
• no need for additional acquisition of microorganisms;
• compact dimensions;
• no need to call a sewer truck;
• possibility of installation at high groundwater levels;
• absence of odors;
• long service life (up to 50 cm).

How much will it cost to build a sewer system in a private house: turnkey price

The capabilities of autonomous sewers Unilos Astra 5 and Topas 5 are considered the most optimal for summer cottages. These structures are reliable, they are able to provide comfortable living and necessary household amenities for residents of a country house. These manufacturers also offer other, no less effective models.

Average price of autonomous sewers Topas:

Name	Price, rub.
Topas 4	77310
Topas-S 5	80730
Topas 5	89010
Topas-S 8	98730
Topas-S 9	103050
Topas 8	107750
Topas 15	165510
Topaero 3	212300
Topaero 6	341700
Topaero 7	410300

Pay attention! The features of the autonomous sewage system Astra, Topas, Biotank and other models listed in the tables allow for deep biological treatment of drains. This figure in some cases reaches 98%. As a result of treatment, the wastewater turns into clear water with a small admixture of silt.

Average price of autonomous sewers Unilos:

Name	Price, rub.
Astra 3	66300
Astra 4	69700
Astra 5	76670
Astra 8	94350
Astra 10	115950
Scarab 3	190000
Scarab 5	253000
Scarab 8	308800
Scarab 10	573000
Scarab 30	771100

The tables indicate standard system costs. The final price for installing an autonomous sewerage system on a turnkey basis is determined taking into account the prices for laying an external pipeline and other issues affecting excavation and installation work in general.

Average price of autonomous Tank type sewers:

Name	Price, rub.
Biotank 3	40000
Biotank 4	48500
Biotank 5	56000
Biotank 6	62800
Biotank 8	70150

Tips for installing an autonomous sewer system in a summer cottage

As with any other system, it is recommended to install the pipeline at an angle from the house towards the cleaning tank. The optimal angle is from 2 to 5° per meter. If you do not adhere to this requirement, full disposal of wastewater by an autonomous sewage system for your dacha will become impossible.

When laying the highway, care should be taken to securely fix its elements. To eliminate the risk of pipe deformation and displacement during soil subsidence, the soil at the bottom of the trenches must be thoroughly compacted. If you fill the bottom with concrete, you will get a more reliable fixed base. When installing pipes, it is advisable to adhere to a straight path.

Be sure to check the joints for leaks. Liquid clay is usually used for joining. It is permissible to use specialized products recommended by the pipe manufacturer. If a highway is installed using elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the maximum permissible length of straight sections of the system is 5 m. When using products with a diameter of 100 mm, this figure is 8 m maximum.

Important! A waste storage tank cannot be placed at a distance of less than 10 m from residential buildings.

Do-it-yourself construction of an autonomous sewer system in a private house

First, the optimal location for installing the wastewater tank is selected. To do this, you can use the data recommended for installing a conventional septic tank, then you can begin excavation work. A pit is dug to install the container. The dimensions of the recess in the ground must correspond to the dimensions of the tank with an allowance of 30 cm on each side.

The technology allows for the installation of a biological filter and a septic tank in one pit. Excavation also involves the formation of trenches for laying the pipeline. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a slope of 2 cm for every 0.1 m of the highway. The bottom of the pit is compacted and filled with concrete. After the site has completely dried and hardened, you can install the plastic container. To fix the structure to the base, it is advisable to use cables.

At the next stage, the autonomous sewage system of a country house is assembled and the pipeline is supplied in accordance with a pre-designed scheme. At the same time, the biological filter blocks are filled. For these purposes, an absorbent with a bioactive effect and expanded clay can be used.

Once the entire system is installed, the depressions in the soil are filled back in. For this, earth and sand are used; the use of a cement-sand mixture is allowed. All this is poured in layers and carefully compacted. At the same time, water is poured into the septic tank. The liquid level should be slightly above the top of the fill material. The pipeline is covered with sand and then with earth. In this case, there is no need to compact the backfill. The system can only be connected after the sewerage system has been checked.

Taking into account the above, manual installation autonomous equipment not that complicated. The use of ready-made structures eliminates any inconvenience associated with the drainage and treatment of wastewater. By following the manufacturer's instructions, any owner of a summer cottage can install an efficient and trouble-free system with a long service life with his own hands. If another system is being installed, an ideal result is only possible if correct execution calculations.

Technology for constructing sewerage systems in a private house: video instructions

Sewage in the house must be collected and directed to the central sewer system or to.

This task is performed by a system of pipelines inside and outside the house - internal and external sewerage.

How to properly lay sewer pipes in a private house

The sewerage diagram shows two vertical pipes crossing the house from the basement to the roof - these are sewer risers, which collect wastewater from nearby sanitary fixtures.

Drains from sanitary fixtures move by gravity to sewer risers, and from there to horizontal sewer pipes and then to the external sewer outlet.

Features of the movement of wastewater through sewer pipes

When developing a sewerage scheme, consider the following.

When water is discharged in one burst through the toilet, a portion of water fills the entire, or almost all, section of the sewer pipe, moving along the pipe and acts like a piston. Behind the flow of water in the pipe a vacuum is created, which, if there is no ventilation, sucks water from the siphons of sanitary fixtures connected to the pipe behind the flow.

A pressure is created ahead of the water flow, which pushes water out of the siphons of sanitary fixtures connected ahead along the flow.

The effect of increasing pressure in the pipe is usually less noticeable because the sewer pipe at the front end usually has an open outlet. Vacuum in the pipes due to improper sewerage in the house often leads to the suction of water from the siphons of sanitary appliances and the appearance of an odor in the house.

Similar processes in sewer pipes can occur:

• When emptying the bathtub or draining the washing machine under pressure generated by the pump.
• In very long pipes there are connections from sanitary fixtures to the riser.
• If there is a large difference in height between the beginning and end of the supply pipe.

Rules for laying sewerage in the house

When developing a sewerage scheme for a private house, the following rules are observed:

1. The toilet must have a separate connection to the riser. No other sanitary fixtures should be connected to the pipe between the toilet and the riser. Failure to comply with this rule can lead to the fact that when flushing the toilet, water will be sucked out of the siphons of other sanitary appliances along the full cross-section of the pipe.

2. The connection of other sanitary fixtures to the riser on the floor should not be lower than the connection point of the toilet. Otherwise, when flushing the toilet, waste water may appear in the drain hole of neighboring appliances.

Other sanitary fixtures, except the toilet, may have one common pipe connections to the riser.

3. When choosing the diameter of the pipes, they are guided by the rule - the diameter of the supply pipe to the riser should not be less than the diameter of the drain pipe of the sanitary fixture. If several devices are connected to one supply pipe, then the diameter of the pipe is taken according to the largest cross-section of the pipe of the connected devices.

The diameter of the riser pipe should not be less than the diameter of the toilet drain pipe - 100 mm.; or 50 mm.- for a riser without a toilet.

4. The length of the supply pipe to the riser from the toilet should be no more than 1 m. The length of pipes for connections from other sanitary fixtures is no more than 3 m. For longer lines (up to 5 meters), it is necessary to increase the pipe diameter to 70-75 mm. Eyeliners longer than 5 m made from pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm. There is no need to increase the diameter of the supply pipes if the upper ends of the supply lines are ventilated using an aeration vacuum valve or by connecting the supply line to the ventilation pipe of the riser. The length of the toilet line can be increased provided that the end connected to the toilet is ventilated.

5. The slope of the pipes for effective self-cleaning should be within 2 - 15% (2 - 15 cm. per meter of length). The height difference between the beginning and end of the supply line to the toilet should not exceed 1 m. For other eyeliners - no more than 3 m. If the height difference is greater, then ventilation of the upper end of the liner is necessary.

6. Installation of corner fittings with an angle of 90 degrees should be avoided at pipe bends. The angles of rotation and connection of pipes must be formed smoothly, from standard parts with an angle of 135 degrees along the flow of liquid.

7. Sewer pipes are laid with a socket in the direction opposite to the flow.

8. Be sure to ventilate the risers. To do this, the riser pipes are brought up, at least 0.5 m. above the roof surface. Lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of vacuum in the pipes when draining water, emptying of siphons of sanitary appliances and the appearance of a sewer smell in the house and on the site. The ventilation of the sewer riser should not be connected to the natural ventilation channels of the premises.

9. To ventilate risers and connections, in the cases indicated above, an aeration vacuum valve is installed at the upper end of the room. The aeration valve allows air only into the pipe, but does not release gases outside. The operation of the valve prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the pipe, which leads to the emptying of siphons of sanitary appliances. If an aeration valve is installed, such a riser does not need to be ventilated. But ventilation of at least one riser in the house should be done.

10. It is necessary to provide sound insulation of sewer risers. To do this, it is better to place the risers in wall niches, cover them with a layer of mineral wool, and cover the niches with plasterboard.

11. The riser pipe at the ceiling level is fixed rigidly. On the floor, between the floors, the pipes are connected and secured in such a way as to ensure movement during temperature deformations. On ground floor At home, in an accessible place, a hatch is installed in the riser - an inspection.

12. Horizontal pipes connecting the risers and the outlet of the external sewerage system are laid in the basement of the house along the walls, in the ground under the floor. Every 15 m. and at each turn an inspection hatch is installed in the pipes.

13. The diameter of the horizontal pipes must be no less than the diameter of the riser pipes. The angles of rotation and connection of pipes are made at an angle of no more than 60 degrees. Pipes laid in the unheated part of the house are insulated.

It's dangerous to do this! A horizontal groove in the wall for sewer pipes reduces the strength of the walls. The possibility of installing a horizontal groove in the wall must be confirmed by the designer's calculations.

A device for laying sewer pipes in a vertical niche in the wall, to the entire height of the floor, or in a horizontal groove, leads to a weakening of the strength of the wall. You should not make niches and grooves anywhere, at your own peril and risk. Niches and grooves with a depth of more than 3 cm. for laying communications in the walls must be provided for in the house design.

It is allowed, without agreement with the designer, to install vertical grooves in the lower part of the wall to a height of no more than 1/3 of the floor height.

External sewer outlet

Sewer outlet - an external section of pipe from the house, connected to the well of the central sewerage system of the village (if there is one), or to a drainless storage septic tank for removal of wastewater by a sewage disposal machine, or to the septic tank of local treatment facilities on the site.

It is recommended to install an inspection well on the exhaust pipe outside, directly next to the house. It is recommended to install a check valve in the pipe in the well. The valve will prevent flooding of the underground part of the building (for example, when a septic tank overflows) and prevent rodents from entering the house through sewer pipes.

The external pipe at the exit from the inspection well is connected to the central sewerage system or to the septic tank of an autonomous sewerage system of a private house.

The outer pipe to the septic tank is laid with a slope of 2.5 - 3%, at a depth of about 0.4 m. If the release length is more than 5 m., then the pipe along its entire length is insulated with a shell made of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

The outlet pipe should not be buried- otherwise, this will lead to the need to install a septic tank at great depth, which will cost more and complicate the operation of the septic tank.

Siphon in the sewer

The drain pipe of each sanitary fixture is connected to the supply pipe through a siphon. The siphon is a U-shaped elbow, in the lower part of which there is always a layer of drained liquid.

Some sanitary fixtures, such as toilets, have a built-in siphon. The layer of water in the siphon serves as a barrier for gases, preventing them from escaping from the sewer pipe into the room.

The siphon of a sanitary fixture may not be filled with water and allow gases to enter the room in the following cases:

1. If the sanitary appliance is not used for a long time, the water in the siphon dries out. During periods of inactivity (more than two weeks), it is recommended to close the drain holes of sanitary appliances.
2. When water is sucked out of a siphon as a result of the vacuum created in the pipes. The risk of water being sucked out of siphons increases with increasing length and decreasing diameter of the supply pipe, as well as in the absence of ventilation of risers and long supply pipes.

Sewage pumps with grinder for home

Effluent moves in sewer pipes by gravity, due to the laying of pipes with a slope.

However, situations sometimes arise in the house when it is difficult to create the necessary slope of pipes from sanitary fixtures. For example, if a sanitary room is installed in the basement of a house. Or it is necessary to move the drains a considerable distance (from the bathhouse), but it is not possible to create the required slope of the pipes.

A fecal pump with a grinder is attached to the toilet. The pump also takes wastewater from the washbasin.

To receive and forcefully move wastewater, special electric sewage pumps are installed. The fecal pump has a device for grinding the contents of wastewater and pumping it into higher-lying pipes of the sewer system.

A pump for forced movement of wastewater is installed after each sanitary fixture or for pumping wastewater from a group of closely located sanitary fixtures.

A fecal pump can lift wastewater to a height of up to 10 meters and move it several tens of meters.

Air flow into sewer pipes for ventilation occurs through the open end of the pipe in the septic tank or the receiving well of the central sewer system. The outlet of the sewer pipe through which wastewater flows from the house to the septic tank, should always be above the level of wastewater in it.

About the processes that occur when wastewater moves through sewer pipes, about the design and correct use of an aeration valve watch this video:

Sewage options - drainage of wastewater from a private home

What to do with wastewater in a private house if there is no central sewerage system nearby?!

There are two sewer options- drainage of wastewater from a private house:

1. Discharge water into a drainless storage septic tank (reservoir, cesspool) with periodic, as it fills, pumping and removal of wastewater by a sewage truck to the treatment plant of the nearest populated area.
2. Construction of local treatment facilities on the site and discharge of purified water into the natural environment - into the ground or onto the terrain.

The first method ensures the minimum construction cost sewerage, but the annual operating costs (removal of wastewater) can be significant.

The sewerage option with local treatment facilities is more expensive to construct, but can provide lower ongoing costs for maintaining the system.

Methods for cleaning sewer drains from a private home

Local wastewater treatment plants use a biological method to remove contaminants from wastewater. Wastewater treatment is carried out by microorganisms capable of decomposing organic pollutants. The main task of biological treatment is to remove organic substances from wastewater. Biochemical reactions occurring during biological treatment are partially removed from wastewater and many chemical elements, reducing their concentration in wastewater.

Distinguish anaerobic(bacteria without oxygen access) and aerobic(bacteria in the presence of oxygen) biological treatment processes.

Two types of local sewage treatment facilities for a private home

To treat wastewater from a private home, use:

1. Anaerobic septic tanks, supplemented by ground treatment facilities with filter drainage through the soil layer. In soil filters, the process of post-treatment of wastewater occurs using aerobic bacteria.
2. Active septic tanks - cleaning devices, in which the process of intensive biological wastewater treatment using aerobic bacteria has been established. Treated wastewater after active septic tank, as a rule, are dumped into the ground or onto the terrain.

The first option, anaerobic septic tank with drainage of wastewater into the ground, as a rule, cheaper to set up and operate. Here, in treatment facilities, conditions close to natural are created for the life of microorganisms. A simple device ensures long-term and reliable operation of the sewer system.

The second option with an active septic tank- more expensive and difficult to operate. An active septic tank is a high-tech factory-made apparatus in which artificial conditions for the vital activity of aerobic microorganisms, which can significantly speed up the cleaning process.

Sewage of a private house with an active septic tank provides the highest degree of wastewater treatment. Treated wastewater from an active septic tank is directed into the ground through the drainage system. If the soils on the site are impermeable, wastewater is discharged onto the terrain, into a ditch.

An active septic tank requires connection to the electrical network, does not tolerate long interruptions in the supply of wastewater, is sensitive to power outages, and requires constant monitoring of operation, as well as timely repair and maintenance.

Advantages: small dimensions, quick installation, independence from soil conditions on the site. For an economy-class house, it makes sense to use an active septic tank when there is not enough space on the site to accommodate ground filter drainage or when the groundwater level is high.

Cleaning sewer drains from a private house in an active septic tank Topas

Autonomous sewage system Topas - efficient and rational decision for the private sector, country and country estates, where there is a connection to central system sewerage is impossible. Many consumers have already appreciated the presented system and characterize it from the best side, but what is it?

The Topas septic tank is a system for accumulating and treating wastewater, as a result of which the purest technical water is brought to the surface. The range of such devices is very wide - each buyer can choose the optimal product that can serve as a separate private house, and a small cottage village.

The essence of autonomous sewage system Topas

In the production of Topas septic tanks, foamed polypropylene is used; in addition, storage chambers are equipped with stiffeners. This production technology makes it possible to achieve the following device parameters:

• High strength characteristics.
• Installation of the system in any weather conditions.
• System operation even in winter period time.
• Independence of soil type and groundwater level.

Let's note some advantages of autonomous sewerage:

• high level of water purification;
• there is no need to develop additional aeration areas;
• long service life;
• compact size, which allows you to install a septic tank in a minimum space;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of maintenance with a minimum of labor and financial costs and does not require calling out special equipment;
• secondary processing products can be used as fertilizer, and purified water for watering plantings;
• no foreign odors or noise;
• absolute tightness of the structure.

It is worth noting cons of the system, although it’s hard to call it a disadvantage:

• dependence on electricity;
• high cost of the product, but over time the costs will pay off;
• For installation, you will need to call a team of specialists, although self-installation is possible.

The principle of operation of an active septic tank

The operating principle of an autonomous sewage system can be divided into several stages:

1. Wastewater enters the receiving chamber, where it is purified from impurities and heavy contaminants. The filling level of the chamber is regulated; after filling, the wastewater enters the aeration tank.
2. An aeration process occurs, as a result of which the sewage is treated with oxygen and special bacteria.
3. Treated wastewater accumulates in a settling tank, from where the sludge that settles at the bottom is subsequently pumped out.
4. Process water goes into a stabilizer, from where it can be disposed of in the ground or used, for example, for irrigation.

Rules for operating an active septic tank Topas

Any Topas septic tank model is equipped with detailed operating instructions, but we will highlight several rules that must be followed:

1. During a power outage, try to limit the flow of wastewater into the collection chamber to avoid overflow.
2. Do not allow aggressive chemicals, alkalis, acids, etc. to enter the system. – they will destroy the beneficial microorganisms of the device.
3. Do not throw garbage that is not intended for it into the sewer - leftover food, bags, plastic, etc. solid household waste.
4. Sludge cleaning takes place twice a year.
5. Some parts of the device must be replaced, for example, Air Mac compressor membranes - once every 2 years, aeration elements - once every 12 years.

Installation of an active septic tank Topas

Installing an autonomous sewer system will not cause any particular difficulties; the whole process is divided into several stages:

1. Finding a place where the septic tank will be installed - a distance of at least 5 meters must be maintained from the foundation of the buildings, while it is worth remembering about the trenches, pit, and drainage area that need to be dug.
2. Digging a pit, the dimensions of which vary depending on the size of the station. If the soil type is unstable, formwork will have to be installed.
3. Laying a sand or concrete cushion to prevent the station from floating. For small models, a sand cushion is provided, and for stations designed for maintenance large quantity users - made of concrete.
4. Installation of the station in a pit - manual or automatic method.
5. Laying sewer pipes.
6. Sealing sewer pipes at their connection to the device. A special polypropylene cord is used, which is included with the station.
7. Connecting the power cord that runs underground in a corrugated pipe.
8. Backfilling with soil is the last stage, in which water is simultaneously poured into the pit to a depth of 35 cm and covered with sand. The station must be completely immersed in the ground, otherwise there will be no normalization of external pressure.

Selecting an autonomous station model

When choosing a Topas septic tank, you should consider the following factors:

• number of future users;
• depth of the sewer pipe;
• Method of release of treated wastewater - forced or free.

Any Topas septic tank model will last a long time if the operating and installation rules are followed. It is worth turning to professionals who will not only quickly and competently provide all services for the selection and installation of an autonomous station, but also provide a warranty for all installation work.

How to make an anaerobic septic tank and ground treatment facilities for autonomous sewerage in a private house with your own hands

More articles on this topic:

Where to direct sewer drains in a private house

Disposal of human waste products is an indispensable condition for organizing comfortable living in private property. Therefore especially important stage drainage system design is the development of a sewerage system in a private house.

Gone are the days when the standard device for a private country home was an ordinary country toilet, which is a plank booth and a cesspool. We invite you to read the article.

In modern times, a sewage system in a house is an indispensable attribute.

Types of sewerage systems for a private home

Water is necessary in your home or dacha; there is no point in arguing with this statement. But its excess is even more harmful than its deficiency. An excessively watered area is even more useless in an economic sense than a dehydrated one. Therefore, special systems are created to remove excess moisture:

1. A drainage sewer system designed to collect and remove liquid from moisture-saturated soil layers.

1. A storm sewer system that performs the function of collecting rain and melt water, its sewerage into special storage tanks and subsequent discharge into storm sewer or into devices for use for household needs during dry periods.

1. Fecal sewerage, responsible for the collection, purification and disposal of household wastewater and human waste products. We suggest you read the article about that.

Each of these devices performs a specific function and has its own design differences in accordance with its purpose.

The nature of the wastewater in each system requires separate collection and sewerage of liquid from each type of specified device.

How to make a sewerage diagram in a house with your own hands

Such a document is a graphical action plan. A sewerage project makes it possible to correctly calculate the need for materials for installing a sewerage system for your home.

Watch video

The basis for drawing up drainage diagrams is a building project, which clearly indicates the installation locations of plumbing fixtures and their names, which allows you to select the correct materials.

Factors influencing the composition and design of sewage systems in the house

To determine the size and placement of the main elements when installing a sewer system in a private house, it is necessary to determine the level of water consumption. The calculation uses average consumption data.

As a first approximation, you can use the standard of 100 liters per person. When designing, you should adhere to the basic rule of placing the main external sewerage equipment at a distance of no closer than 4 meters from the border of the site and no closer than 10 meters from a residential building.

In this case, the distance to the nearest water intake (well or borehole) must be at least 35 meters.

If your neighbors complain about you, then the inspection authorities (the sanitary and epidemiological service) will demand that the distance be no less than the figure indicated above!

Below is an example project.

The purpose of drawing up a plan is to locate the main equipment of the drainage system, determine the cross-section of sewer outlets and select the appropriate fittings for the installation of a gravity drainage network.

Elements of the internal sewer system

These include the following details;

1. Kitchen sink siphon and drain pipe.
2. The same device for the washbasin in the bathroom.
3. There is also a siphon and drain pipe from the bathtub, and a drain with a siphon from the shower stall.
4. The drain pipe and siphon from the bidet are in the toilet. There is also a siphon and an elbow connecting the toilet to the sewer riser.

IN two-story house these elements may be repeated on each floor, but they may also be missing, in which case appropriate adjustments must be made to the list provided.

All of the listed parts are connected to a horizontally located outlet pipe. Since we are talking about a gravity drainage system, when laying the drainage channel, it is installed with a slope of 2-5 millimeters in the direction of the drainage and is connected to the riser of the drainage system.

The size of the outlet pipe may vary within the nominal diameter 32-50 millimeters. In practice, they usually prefer to make do with one, maximum diameter, which simplifies the selection of fittings. See the diagram below.

All data on the use of plumbing elements are summarized in an axonometric drawing, according to which it is necessary to calculate the need for materials.

When laying sewer pipes in a country house, all connections must be made at an angle of 135 degrees, for which appropriate fittings are produced.

How to make a diagram of the internal sewage system at home yourself

Such a graphic document provides for the display of all communications in the house, including the drainage diagram. The following circumstances are taken into account:

1. All plumbing fixtures are installed on the floor along one wall, common to rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

1. The kitchen is equipped with a sink, dishwasher and washing machine.
2. These units are connected to a common outlet pipe through siphons, which prevent air from the sewer with characteristic odors from entering the room.
3. The outlet pipe passes through a hole in the wall into the bathroom, where the following plumbing fixtures can be connected: washbasin, bathtub, washing machine - each device with its own siphon.

1. The next hole in the wall opens into the toilet, where a bidet and toilet can be placed.
2. All connections are made to an outlet pipe with a diameter of 40-50 millimeters using tees at an angle of 135 degrees. The connections must be made “in a socket”, equipped with a sealing collar for tightness.

The system for collecting and disposing of wastewater is free-flowing, so the sewerage drainage line. This rule must be followed very scrupulously.

Another revision is installed at the upper end of the riser in the house, to which the base of the fan pipe is attached. It is discharged through the ceiling and roofing. The upper end must be at least half a meter above the roof ridge to reliably remove unpleasant sewer odors.

In addition, when the riser pipe is completely filled with drain water, the siphon may break.

A vacuum is created in the filled riser pipe, as a result of which the water seals in the siphons are sucked into the riser. Air, not at all scented, penetrates into the living space of the house through empty water seals. The result is obvious.

This unsightly situation is completely resolved by installing a fan pipe through which air enters the system, equalizing the pressure.

The fan pipe must be protected by the head from clogging with debris and leaves. They are most often made in the form of a deflector, creating an upward air flow for ventilation.

Thus, the riser plays a vital role in the overall drainage system and all the features of its design must be taken into account when designing the sewer system.

Features of sewerage installation in a two-story private house

The installation of the upper floor in a country house also involves the use of a drainage system. There are fewer drain points, usually a shower and a toilet.

To save money, the sewerage distribution on the second floor is carried out in parallel to a similar network on the first floor. This simplifies the design and installation of the system, since there is no need to install a second riser - the drain will be connected to the existing one.

Elements of the external sewer system

The external wastewater treatment and disposal system consists of a number of units, the action of which is aimed at disinfecting wastewater.

The main ones are:

1. Filter wells or septic tanks. The first ones are the easiest to manufacture and operate. They are a pit in the ground up to three meters deep. The transverse size can reach two meters regardless of its shape. The walls of the pit are reinforced with concrete or brickwork. They can be solid or perforated with holes of 40-60 millimeters. A filter up to 80 centimeters thick is installed at the bottom of the well.

You can use slag, gravel, broken bricks for it. The latter is laid in a top layer of broken brick, the size of the fraction is about 50 millimeters. For the gravel filter, material from 15 millimeters is used.

1. Septic tanks. The container is divided by one or more partitions.

The drained liquid fills the first chamber. At the site where the liquid jet falls, you need to install a protective plate that will not allow it to erode the silt layer. A cartridge with a bacterial culture, which will become the basis of an aerobic filter, must be placed in the chamber.

In it, the biological mass decomposes pollution. Water overflows over the upper edge of the partition and enters the second chamber, where an aerator is installed and the water is blown through with sprayed air. In this case, the contaminants are oxidized and further processed, this time by anaerobic bacteria in the presence of oxygen

When using a septic tank, the degree of wastewater treatment reaches 75–90%, which indicates the need for additional purification for complete disinfection.

1. Soil field filtration
2. Sewage installation projects are carried out individually depending on actual conditions.

This method is used for post-treatment of wastewater as it passes through soils. From the septic tank, the liquid enters the drainage pipe system, passing through a gravel filter and a double layer of geofabric.

At the same time, all fine particles are retained in them, and the degree of purification reaches 98%.

The limitation for the use of this method of additional wastewater treatment is the characteristics of the soil. Fields are ineffective on soils with low permeability - dense loams and clays. Sandy gravel and sandy soils are the most favorable, allowing for high-quality filtration of wastewater.

1. Infiltrators. Infiltrates are installed on low-permeability soils. These are box-shaped plastic products with side bars, closed at the top and open at the bottom. Depending on the volume of processing, up to 3-4 devices can be installed sequentially.

Any of the described objects can be used both together and in the configuration chosen by the buyer. The connection of objects is made by laying plastic pipes with a diameter of 100-150 millimeters, less often - for large objects - pipes of 200 millimeters are used.

In addition, each external sewerage facility is equipped with a ventilation system; inside the building, vent pipes are used for this purpose.

The use of septic tanks is most popular in areas with insufficient rainfall, while the purified liquid is actively used for reuse for household needs.

Design of external sewerage

These two components of a single task are completely opposite. If the internal sewerage system is intended for collecting wastewater, then the external one is for its disinfection and disposal.

Therefore, the rules for its design have only one similarity with internal requirements - the slope from the foundation of the house towards the storage tank should be 1-2 millimeters per meter for the same reasons (see above).

The factors of the first group include the absence of a special closed shaft for placing a vent pipe. We have already seen its necessity. In such a situation, it is installed with an outlet through the wall in a wall-mounted version; it is fastened to the wall using brackets.

If installing a drain pipe in this option is also undesirable, you can use air valve to relieve pressure in the sewer drain.

Types of sewerage facilities and their functioning

To disinfect and purify wastewater sewered in a private home, several techniques are used:

1. Accumulation of liquid in a special container. Here the primary separation of the waste into solid liquid fractions occurs. It uses chemical and biological preparations that help liquefy the mass and its partial processing by active bacteria. Culture can be purchased in specialized stores or at the construction market.

The above cleaning scheme is used in industrial conditions, but most operations in one form or another are also performed on home cleaning devices.

INFORMATION TO HELP!!! Thus, chemical and bacteriological treatment of wastewater is carried out in the storage tank. Further purification occurs in the filter well. Filter in in this case consists of gravel and sand. Good results are obtained by using granulated slag and broken bricks, which are good adsorbents.

Routing and laying of pipes

As a result of the accumulated experience, certain rules for the installation of internal and external pipelines when laying sewers have been formed. They look like this:

1. Regardless of the location and method of its placement, the type of pipes and other conditions, it is mandatory to observe when laying a slope towards the drain. In this case, you should be guided by the requirements of SNiPs, since each pipe size requires a certain slope. Violation of the rules regarding its size usually leads to the formation of a blockage.
2. The distances between sewerage objects must be optimal in length; if they exceed 4-5 meters, an inspection insert is necessary. An inspection well must be installed in 10-meter sections.
3. When laying sewerage in a country house ( underground installation) you must follow the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85 and 2.04.01-85 regarding compliance with the distances between individual sewer network objects.
4. In Russian conditions, an important factor is the placement of the pipeline below the zero freezing point of the soil. To ensure this factor, the trench must be deep enough, but you can take the path of insulating the sewer, even using heating cables during installation.
5. Laying of sewer pipes is carried out only on a bed of sand and the covering is also provided on top. This stage is very important for their integrity.

When using plastic pipes, tamp the sand layer carefully. The best results are obtained by pouring copious amounts of water onto the cover. In this case, the highest quality compaction occurs, after which it is possible to backfill with soil.
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The correct autonomous sewage system for a country house can work long time subject to quality installation and proper maintenance.

Insulation of sewer pipes

In sealed cesspools, the contents are retained for the entire time between pumping. With a large family, such operations are performed quite often, because each person produces about 100 liters of wastewater per day.

The cesspool is located in a place convenient for access by a sewage truck, no more than 6 meters from the border of the site.

The danger of cesspools lies in insufficient wastewater treatment. If in sealed devices this issue is not considered at all, then in filtration devices the degree of purification is about 75%, which is clearly not enough and contaminants gradually accumulate in the soil.

Filter wells

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house is also possible in other ways. So, the outer part is made in the form of filter wells. This becomes possible on marl or sandy soils with high permeability.

The composition of the filter in this case is heterogeneous:

• in the lower part a layer of blast furnace slag up to half a meter thick is poured;
• then there is a layer of gravel with a fraction of 15 millimeters;
• The top layer should be properly filled with broken bricks, which exhibit strong adsorbing characteristics.

On upper layers In such a filter, large components of the filtrate are deposited, followed by smaller ones. Filter wells are effective if biological wastewater treatment is used. Aerobic bacteria gradually develop in the filter, capable of processing organic matter contained in wastewater.

It is possible and often used to dispose of filtered liquid through drainage ditches into the nearest body of water. Waste water in the drainage ditch undergoes additional cleaning, passing through a gravel-sand filter.

The degree of purification in a filter well, depending on the throughput characteristics of the soil, can reach 90-95%.

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In general, a filter well is a transitional step from a cesspool to a septic tank. If you add another compartment with an aeration unit to the container, you can get a full-fledged septic tank. Sprayed air actively oxidizes the wastewater biomass, forming another bactericidal sludge layer, in this case it is represented by anaerobic bacteria.

Calculation of the volume of filter structures for sewerage at home

You should understand the responsibility of the residents of the house for the environmental condition of their place of residence. And it largely depends on the purity of groundwater. Therefore, a number of documents regulating water consumption and water treatment have been developed:

• Building codes and regulations 2.04.03.85, regulating the installation of external sewage systems in private houses, as well as the arrangement of sanitary protection zones for small protective structures;
• SNiP 2.04.01.85 for internal networks and water supply in terms of determining the volume of wastewater;
• a manual on the procedure for designing engineering support systems MDS 40.2.200, which provides calculations for calculating the volume of wastewater in private housing construction.

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Calculation of the volume of a septic tank can be performed for both a single-chamber scheme and a multi-chamber one. When the volume of consumption per day is about one cubic meter, one chamber is enough for the complete biocenosis of the contents of the septic tank.

With a larger number of drains, you need to use two or more containers, which are installed in series. Septic tanks of two or more chambers are divided equally, but it is possible to use devices in which the first chamber occupies up to 75% of the volume. Important - according to sanitary standards, making cesspools is prohibited!

The use of biochemical treatment of wastewater makes it possible to purify it to a degree of 98%, so this water can be used for watering the garden and at the same time obtaining an increase in the harvest. To fertilize the soil you can

The main difference between drain systems and other pipelines is the following features:

1. Gravity flow when working under atmospheric pressure conditions. Liquid flows through pipe products under the influence of gravity along a predetermined slope.
2. The flow rate is set by the angle of inclination of the pipeline towards the outflow. Moreover, its value should be strictly within 1-2 millimeters per meter. The reasons have already been mentioned above.
3. Tightness. For a gravity pipeline, it is provided by a socket connection of the elements using a rubber collar for sealing.

When installing a sewer system, it is not allowed to connect pipes skewed from the common axis. Otherwise, a gap will form between the wall of the part and the cuff with leakage of the transported liquid.

Which pipe products to choose at home

For waste disposal systems, pipelines made of various materials are used:

1. For many decades, the market leaders have been cast iron sewer pipes. This material is almost ideal for this application. The manufacturing material is resistant to corrosion in most environments and has fairly high strength characteristics. The accuracy of the socket connection is ensured by the production method - casting. In addition, the use of cast iron pipes allows the use of caulking during their installation to improve the tightness of the connection.

To facilitate the installation of cast iron pipelines, a wide range of fittings are produced.

1. Asbestos pipes. Some positive characteristics of asbestos pipes do not cancel the main thing negative point– such materials are prohibited for use in residential construction.
2. Plastic sewer pipes today have practically replaced all other types. Simple delivery and unloading, manufacturability of the material during installation and durability have led to the fact that they have become the main materials for those who decided to make sewage systems with their own hands. The main method of assembling pipelines is in a socket. For internal systems the main dimensions are:
   • For outlets from plumbing fixtures - diameters of 40 or 50 millimeters;
   • For the riser and drain pipe - size 100 or 110 mm;
   • For the outlet pipe from the house to the septic tank 100, 110 or 150.

Laying a pipeline from the house to the tank

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Therefore, a rule has been established that determines the installation of a storage tank at a distance of at least 10 meters from a residential building. However, there are sources that regulate this value at 5 meters.

It should be understood that this is a random discrepancy, but it is better to stick to the first installation option. In this case it will be impossible to make a claim. But, strictly speaking, correct installation capacity depends on the throughput and filtering capacity of the soil on the site.

It is mandatory to comply with the slope in the parameters mentioned above.

To lay a sewer outlet pipe, you will need to dig a trench of the required depth, determined by the level of soil freezing. Let’s imagine the labor costs associated with fulfilling this requirement, because we also need to provide for the thickness of the drainage layer. If in the Moscow region the soil freezes to 1.8 meters, then the depth of the trench will be more than 2.2. That's why many people prefer ditches shallow, insulating the pipes with a protective jacket and heating cable.

The order of work is as follows:

1. The route is marked with pegs or a cord.
2. Excavation of soil to a connection depth of about 60 centimeters.
3. Backfilling of the drainage - about 20 centimeters of gravel and 10 centimeters of sand at the bottom.
4. Filling the drainage with water to seal.
5. Marking the slope is done using a cord and a building level. The upper end at the exit from the building should be 20 centimeters higher than the opposite end at a ten-meter distance.
6. The pipes are laid section by section to a depth according to the laying pattern, the position is regulated by placing bricks under them and adding sand.
7. The heating cable is installed and secured with tape.
8. During installation, a thermal insulating casing is placed on the pipe.
9. The pipe with cable and insulation is covered with sand, then with previously removed soil.

The use of plastic pipes for the external drainage system will ensure their integrity during seasonal soil movements, since they are elastic enough to withstand such loads. Installing a sewer system in your home from this material ensures its performance for up to 50 years.

DIY installation cost

Paying for the services of invited specialists costs a lot of money. But if you analyze the installation technology according to the wiring diagram of the sewer system, it becomes obvious that there is nothing in it that cannot be done correctly yourself.

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How to increase efficiency

The uninterrupted operation of the drain system is, first of all, ensured by high-quality installation.

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The only thing that can be advised to the user is to install a waste shredder under the sink in addition to the sewerage system; doing this correctly is not difficult. This action will significantly protect the system from the formation of blockages.