Today, there are many options to equip the most efficient heating system in your apartment, house or country house. Depending on the intended use of residential premises, heating systems can be primary and auxiliary. In each case, the tenants themselves decide how to heat their home. A lot has already been said about the advantage of water floors. In terms of its efficiency and quality of heating, a water-heated floor is the undoubted leader among the existing heating options. However, from a technological point of view, such a heating scheme is not always suitable as the main source of heat in the house.

Underfloor heating is ideal for the private sector, country houses and summer cottages, which cannot be said about a city apartment in a multi-storey building. However, in this case there is also a way out of this situation. In order to equip an effective heating system in your house or apartment, consider what the schematic diagram of a warm water floor looks like.

Various types of underfloor heating. Fundamental differences

In practice, in private households, three types of underfloor heating are being installed today:

• concrete;
• lungs;
• thin.

Each type has its own technological features, a certain connection scheme, which are largely determined by the type of living space. Underfloor heating based on a concrete screed is installed in houses and buildings with sufficiently strong ceilings. When choosing such a heating scheme, it is important to remember about significant limitations from a technological point of view. We are talking about an additional load on the floor and a decrease in the internal space by raising the floor by 10-15 cm.

Important! When equipping a heating system of this type, technological limitations play an important role. The new concrete screed has a significant weight (200-300 kg / m 2), therefore, when laying a warm floor in a regular room with an area of ​​15 sq. m. concrete monolith weighing 2-3 tons will press on the ceiling.

Note: the installation of underfloor heating with liquid heat transfer agent in residential premises of apartment buildings is prohibited. The main reason for the ban is the technological factor. The water floor piping is not able to withstand the increased flow resistance. The functionality of the heating system can be affected by a poor-quality coolant. In addition, there is always a high probability of violation of the integrity and failure of the water circuit as a result of a water hammer.

For residential buildings with a strong and reliable structure, a concrete water floor is an excellent solution for heating residential premises. For a city apartment, this option looks problematic. The only way to implement such a heating scheme in a city apartment is to use a warm floor as an auxiliary, additional source of heating. The water circuit can be laid on the floor in small rooms. For example, a very common option is underfloor heating in the bathroom and in the nursery.

A sand-cement screed, in which the water circuit is hidden, will protect the pipeline well from damage and provide good heat transfer.

Light water floor - a heating scheme specially designed for equipment in wooden houses. The main advantage in this case is the minimum floor load. In turn, light floors by the type of flooring are divided into wood and polystyrene structures.

The third type of water floors used in everyday life is thin structures. Here, the main focus is on pipes of small diameter, thanks to which the height of the entire cake is 25 mm.

Water floor - heating cake diagram

In most cases, private sector residents, owners of country houses and cottages prefer the concrete type of water floors. This option is mounted much faster. Equipment costs are significantly lower. And the heating system itself is practical and efficient in operation. In order to do it yourself, you should familiarize yourself with what a concrete water floor looks like in a section, which is a so-called puff pie scheme.

A puff pastry is a layered structure that is indispensable when laying the heating circuit on the floor. The lowest layer is a waterproofing coating, the task of which is to protect concrete floors from moisture.

After laying the waterproofing, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the heated room. This element compensates for the pressure of the concrete screed expanding during heating on the wall panels.

Important! Sequential laying of each layer in a puff cake of a concrete water-heated floor is a prerequisite. Neglect of technology can lead to the fact that your heating system will bring only troubles and problems, instead of creating a comfortable living environment.

Thermal insulation is the most important element in this option. Correctly selected materials, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer will minimize heat losses, directing the main flow of heat from the heating pipe upward. Thermal insulation is installed over the entire area of ​​the heated room, regardless of whether there is a water heating circuit in this place or not.

Again, a layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulating layer, which will protect all previous layers of the cake from moisture in the event of a leak.

The heating circuit piping is already being installed on the prepared base. Today there are many ways to fix heating pipes. Anchor shackles, plastic straps and straps are commonly used. The most convenient and practical way is to use molded insulation boards for successful installation. In the design of such plates, special fasteners for the heating pipe are provided.

You should know! If we are talking about the equipment of underfloor heating in small rooms, the reinforcing mesh is not an obligatory element. For large areas, laying reinforcing mesh or polypropylene fiber is mandatory.

The final stage in the formation of a puff pastry is the pouring of concrete. It is imperative to add a plasticizer to the sand-cement mixture. Finishing stage ― shaping the floor covering. Here you can already give free rein to your imagination, giving preference to one or another material. For a bathroom, the most suitable option is porcelain stoneware or tile. For living rooms, the ideal option is to use laminated parquet or laminate flooring.

The puff pie pattern is traditional. Differences can be in the use of materials of various types and types. The laminated structure is usually 100-150 mm thick. The thickness of the screed can be varied depending on the design features of the dwelling and the building itself.

Laying schemes for the water circuit

If the installation of warm water floors is carried out according to the knurled, traditional technology in a clear sequence, then the laying of the heating pipe can be performed in various variations. The main goal pursued when equipping heating floors is to uniformly heat the entire area of ​​the heated room. Laying the pipeline just the way you want means knowingly creating problem areas in the entire structure. The coolant tends to quickly lose temperature as it flows, so the pipes must be laid, starting from the walls, then moving to the entrance to the room or to its center. For this purpose, specially designed optimal layouts for the water circuit, each of which has its own characteristics.

The mixing unit and manifold are the beginning of the entire heating system. The water circuits are connected in a clear sequence. The beginning of the pipeline is to the inlet pipe, the end of the pipe is connected to the check valve.

You can mount a warm floor with your own hands, water, the contour of which will fit as follows:

• pipe installation according to the snake scheme "
• laying the pipeline according to the snail scheme;
• combined scheme.

When equipping heating in corner rooms, a pipe laying scheme is used for enhanced heating.

In each case, we can talk about the advantages of a particular scheme. For example: the snail is the simplest scheme. The pipe bend here reaches 90 0, while in the snake the heating pipe will be bent by 180 0.

On a note: the water circuit of the "snake" type can be operated from a low-power circulation pump. For a bathroom or a nursery, such a styling scheme looks preferable.

Where the heated premises have a linear slope, it is better to mount the pipe according to the "snake" scheme. The pipeline is laid in the direction from the mixing unit in the direction of the slope. Air locks in this version can be easily removed, which cannot be said about a pipe laid according to the "snail" scheme. In rooms with a slope, removing air locks can be problematic.

For premises of a large area, where it is required to use several water circuits of the same length for heating, the "snake" pipeline laying scheme is very convenient. Thanks to this installation method, a balanced operation of the entire heating system can be achieved.

Heating pipes laid on a prepared base to a manifold that distributes the coolant supply to the system. The distribution cabinet together with the mixing unit is installed either in the heated room or next to it, which significantly reduces the number of pipes and the consumption of other materials. The bends of the water pipe at the point of connection to the collector are sewn into a special protective box.

In each case, you should adhere to a certain order of laying the water pipe. When working with a snail scheme, the pipe is first laid along the perimeter of the walls, after which a turn follows from the farthest wall. In the opposite direction, the pipe is laid in a spiral, reaching the center of the heated room. For the snake scheme, the water circuit is laid as follows. The pipe lays down along the perimeter of the walls, after which uniform bends are made in the opposite direction.

Combined schemes for installing heating pipes for underfloor heating, used in some cases, imply the simultaneous use of both options. One half of the room can be heated by a snake-type water circuit, while the other part of the room will be heated by a snail-mounted pipe.

Connection diagram of the heating water pipe to the manifold

Installation of a concrete screed, laying a water heating pipe - engineering and technological aspects of installing a warm floor. The main stage during installation is the connection of the pipeline to the mixing unit and to the manifold.

It has already been said above about where and how best to place the manifold cabinet. Together with the installation of the mixing unit, the manifold and the circulation pump make up the heating system control unit.

Usually the cabinet has dimensions of 50x50 cm. For a better combination with the interior of the living space, the collector cabinet is made in a recess of 10-15 cm. Accordingly, it is better to hide the water circuits in the connection points into the wall.

Having installed the collector, the necessary highways are connected to it. Traditionally, the connection diagram looks like this:

The difference may be in which heating method is used. This can be the use of a heat carrier supplied through a centralized heating system, or an autonomous heating system powered by a boiler.

On a note: If you use a warm floor and heating radiators at the same time, then you can get by with the installation of one pump. When it comes to a full-fledged heating system, underfloor heating for the entire building, the manifold, the pump and the installation of the mixing unit are indispensable attributes.

The supply and return pipes are connected to the collector through special fittings. If pipe and manifold inlet diameters are different, adapters are used.

A shut-off valve must be installed in the system, which shuts off the supply of hot water to the water circuits. A drain valve must be installed on the return pipe.

To ensure the exact temperature of underfloor heating, special valves and a mixing unit are installed on the collector. If funds are available, you can purchase a ready-made, complex collector, the design of which includes all of the listed elements. Collectors may differ in their design, depending on the number of connected water circuits and the volume of heated rooms.

For reference: in houses where underfloor heating is installed in all living quarters, collectors serve all rooms at once. On one condition, if the layout of the heating pipe is the same everywhere.

When using one pipe laying scheme, the collector has the same number of inlet and outlet connections. When using a combined installation, you will have to have a manifold with a large number of inlet and outlet connections.

Subtleties and nuances of connecting water heated floors

After getting acquainted with the various options for equipment and installation of warm water floors, you should recall the existence of some nuances that must be taken into account. Let's dwell in more detail:

• laying the water circuit;
• checking the functionality of the finished heating system;
• screed pouring, flooring laying.

The first thing to pay attention to is the way of laying the heating pipe. If for you a warm floor is the only heating option in the house, then the pipe is mounted with minimal deviations. The pipe pitch in this case is 15-20 cm.In the event that the warm floor is only an auxiliary heating system for you, the pipe is laid in increments of up to 30 cm.

Important! The maximum allowable step for laying the water circuit should not exceed 30 cm. Otherwise, you will physically feel cold areas in the floor.

The pipe is fixed with special clamps or clips, however, without rigid fixation. When hot coolant is supplied, the pipeline expands, which will inevitably cause a dynamic displacement of the entire circuit. When laying the water pipe according to the snail pattern, do not forget that there is a reverse stroke. The most optimal pipe length for underfloor heating is 70 m. If the entire length is not enough to heat one room, make two water circuits of the same length.

For example: to heat a room of 10 m 2, you will need 67 m of the heating pipe (with a step of 15 cm).

The final stages of work is a trial run, which is carried out to check the operability of the heating system and all structural elements. The first launch is carried out for 2-4 hours. The starting pressure should exceed the operating pressure by 1.5-2 times. Every hour, the working pressure must be reduced by 0.03 MPa, bringing it to optimal parameters. The heating temperature during this period should rise evenly to operating values.

In the end, when the whole system is working, you can start pouring a concrete screed or equipment of a type-setting structure.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can say the following. The connection diagrams for underfloor heating in our apartments and houses may differ, however, there are no fundamental differences in this case. Depending on how you plan to use this heating scheme, it depends on how the wiring will be carried out, the layout of the water pipe and the connection to the hot water source.

It should be recalled that connection to the centralized heating main is prohibited, for technological reasons. The figure shows how you can achieve what you want, but whether your neighbors' heating batteries will be able to work with the same efficiency in your house after that is an open question.

Water heated floors give the maximum possible effect when using autonomous heating sources. Gas boilers are the best sources of heat. Due to the fact that for a warm floor, the maximum permissible heating temperature of the coolant reaches 45-50 0 С, you can use a small-capacity boiler.

With proper installation, using the usual floor heating scheme, you can provide yourself with comfort for a long time. Subject to normal operating conditions, your heating floor will be able to work for 30-50 years.

Water underfloor heating (WTP) is a fairly popular method of heating residential premises in private construction. It is chosen because of its high economic efficiency. Using this type of underfloor heating saves up to 30% energy on heating. In addition, this type of heating is very reliable; with proper installation, the ECP can last up to 50 years.

The most significant disadvantage of this type of underfloor heating is that it cannot be used in apartment buildings that are centrally heated. In theory, you can submit an application to the Heating Network, as well as to the management company, go through numerous checks and approvals, and still install an ECP by connecting it to the centralized heating system. But in reality, in most cases, it will not be possible to agree on a project.

Illegal connection to the general heating circuit is fraught with unpleasant consequences for both you and your neighbors. The temperature and pressure in the heating system are too high for the underfloor heating system, the slightest mistake during installation can lead to leakage of the coolant, you can flood the neighbors from below and leave the neighbors above without heat. Therefore, in apartment buildings, it is preferable to use an electric underfloor heating.

On the other hand, in private houses, VTP allows you to significantly save on heating, due to uniform heating of the air in the room and reaching the highest temperature at the floor, and not at the ceiling, as with a radiator heating system.

Due to its high reliability, ECP is excellent for heating a garage or workshop.

The best heating is achieved by using tiles or marble tiles, as well as laminate flooring, as a topcoat. The situation is a little worse with the carpet, as it does not conduct heat well.

The principle of operation of the ECP

Plastic or metal pipes are laid in the cement screed, through which, thanks to the circulation pump, the coolant, heated in the heating boiler, continuously flows. It gives off heat to the screed, after which it returns back to the boiler. The screed transfers heat by convection to the finish coating, and from it heats the air in the room. If the ESP is the only source of heating, then the temperature is regulated by the boiler. If the underfloor heating complements the radiator heating, then the temperature control is carried out using a mixing unit, in which the heated and cooled heat carrier is mixed in a set proportion.

Thus, the entire system consists of a heating boiler, a common heating riser, a distribution unit and pipes through which the coolant circulates. The coolant can be ordinary water or a special liquid, for example, antifreeze.

The distribution unit, in turn, consists of a circulation pump, a mixing unit and a manifold group, which carries out the "wiring" of various heating circuits.

What are the consequences of errors during the installation of ECP

When laying pipes, it is important to ensure that they are strictly parallel to the floor. If the height difference between the beginning and the end of the pipe is more than half of its diameter, this will lead to the formation of air locks, which will impede the circulation of the coolant and significantly reduce the heating efficiency.

Each circulation circuit must be made from a single piece of pipe, the connections in the circuit must only be with the collector group. The connection of two pipe sections in one circuit and the pouring of this connection into the screed is highly undesirable. This greatly increases the possibility of leakage of the coolant, and several times reduces the reliability of the entire system.

Before pouring the screed, it is important to conduct hydraulic tests of the entire system with increased pressure at the operating temperature of the coolant. The pressure should remain constant throughout the day, it is important to make sure there are no leaks. Once the screed is poured, it will be extremely difficult to find the leak.

The screed is poured with a filled circuit with a coolant temperature of no more than 25 degrees. Failure to observe this rule can lead to deformation of the pipes, the formation of air pockets and uneven hardening of the screed, which will lead to a deterioration in heating.

It is allowed to start the system at operating temperature no earlier than 28 days after the screed is poured. Heating at an earlier date will lead to the formation of voids inside the screed, which will several times reduce the efficiency of the warm floor.

Advantages and disadvantages of ECP

The advantages of a water-heated floor are:

• high energy efficiency. A more efficient heating scheme saves up to 30% energy. This is the cheapest way to heat indoor floors;
• high system reliability under conditions of correct installation. The average service life of ECP is 50 years;
• ESP can be the only source of heating in a room. This allows you to abandon the use of radiators and more efficiently use the space of the room.

The disadvantages of a water-heated floor include:

• relatively high complexity of design and installation. It is important to carefully consider the placement of all elements of the underfloor heating system and the routing of pipes between rooms. The circulation circuit should not contain joints, therefore, you need to draw a pipe layout diagram in advance and calculate the required length;
• impossibility of use in most apartment buildings due to incompatibility with centralized heating systems.

water heated floor

Step-by-step instructions for installing ECP

Design phase

At this stage, it is necessary to decide whether the ECP will be the main source of heating, or it will only supplement radiator heating. In the first case, you can do without a mixing unit and regulate the temperature directly on the boiler. In this case, as a rule, the boiler heats the coolant up to 45 degrees, after which it enters the floor heating system directly.

If the ECP complements the radiator heating system, then the installation of the mixing unit is strictly necessary. For efficient operation of radiators, the coolant must have a temperature of 70 degrees, this is too high a temperature for the underfloor heating system, therefore the coolant must be cooled in the mixing unit.

You need to design the placement of separate manifolds and mixers for each floor of the building, they must be connected to a common heating riser. It is recommended to place the manifold in the center of the floor so that the length of the pipes to all heated rooms is approximately the same. This will greatly facilitate the configuration of the entire system.

The best option is to use pre-assembled manifold cabinets that are pre-assembled and tested at the factory. You just need to select the required number of collector groups, the power of the circulation pump and the mixing unit, if necessary. The cabinet is mounted into the wall and the heating circuit from the common riser and the circulation circuits of the warm floor are connected to it. The only drawback of using a ready-made collector cabinet is its relatively high price, but when it comes to increased reliability and safety, it makes no sense to save.

For a rough estimate of the required number of pipes, one can proceed from the calculation of 5 running meters of pipe per 1 m2 of floor. Optimal in terms of price / quality ratio are polymer pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene. They weigh little, are unpretentious in installation and have a service life of 50 years. Metal pipes have a longer service life, but they are much more expensive and more difficult to install. Today, most water floor heating systems operate on polymer pipes.

Water heat-insulated floor. The project is drawn up after carrying out measurements and calculations

It is necessary to think over the pipe laying scheme in advance. For small rooms, parallel pipe laying with a "snake" with a pitch of 20-30 cm is suitable. This is the least time-consuming method, but it is not suitable for large rooms and cases where the pipe pitch should be less than 20 cm. In a large room, when laying with a "snake", the temperature the floor in opposite corners of the room will be noticeably different, and when laying with a "snake" with a small pitch, the pipe can easily break due to too strong a bend.

The "spiral" method comes to the rescue, it is more laborious, but gives better results. The floor heating will be as uniform as possible, and the pipe will not experience additional bending loads.

In general, for rooms with an area of ​​less than 10 m2, "snake" laying is used, for an area of ​​10-15 m2, both methods can be used, and for large rooms, as a rule, several parallel spirals are used.

If the warm floor is the only source of heating, then the pipe pitch should be 15-20 cm, but if there are other sources of heating in the room, then the step is increased to 25-30 cm.

XLPE pipe

Preparation of the base

The base for pipe-laying should be as flat as possible. The difference in heights in one circulation circuit of more than 6 mm is not allowed. Fill the floor with a rough concrete screed if necessary.

Video - Preparing the floor for the installation of a warm floor

There must be a sufficient layer of thermal insulation between the sub-screed and the pipes. If there is a heated room under a warm floor, then it will be enough to put a layer of polystyrene or foam foam with a thickness of 3-5 mm. If there is a cold room below, then the layer must be increased to at least 20 mm. If this is the first floor and there is soil below the floor, then the insulation layer should be 60-80 mm.

In the photo there is a damper tape and a multi-foil

After the thermal insulation is laid, do not be too lazy to draw a pipe laying diagram on it using a marker. This will greatly facilitate installation and help to identify possible errors even before the start of pipe-laying work.

Layout and fastening of pipes

The most popular way to secure pipes is to use a special mounting mesh. This is a metal or plastic mesh with a mesh of 100 mm, which is spread over the thermal insulation. Pipes are laid out on a grid in accordance with the diagram and fastened with wire or plastic clamps. The advantages of this method is the additional strengthening of the finishing screed due to reinforcement with mesh, and the disadvantages include high labor costs during installation.

The second common method of installation is the use of polystyrene mats, created specifically for the installation of a water-heated floor. They simultaneously play the role of thermal insulation and fix the pipes in the desired position. This is achieved due to the fact that special projections are made on the front side of the mat, located in a checkerboard pattern. The pipe is laid between these protrusions, which securely fix it in the desired position. This is a more expensive, but also more convenient and quicker way of installing a water-heated floor.

Regardless of which installation scheme and installation method you choose, avoid excessive bending of the pipes, try not to step on them again and do not drop heavy objects. Even a slight damage to the pipe will require replacing the entire circuit.

Cut the pipe only in place, that is, start laying from the supply manifold and cut off the rest of the pipe only after bringing it to the return manifold. Do not skimp on pipes, do not place them in an interference fit and do not try to make a connection between two sections. The potential savings are not worth the potential problems associated with coolant leaks.

When laying pipes “snake”, try to place the beginning of the pipe against the “cold” wall of the room or by the window to compensate for uneven heating of the floor. When laying in a "spiral" there is no such need, the floor will always be warmed up evenly.

After all the circuits are laid out and connected to the manifold group, you can proceed to hydraulic testing of the system.

underfloor heating pump

ECP tests

Before pouring the screed, it is necessary to test the entire system with increased pressure and temperature. Fill the system with heating medium. Make sure all circuits attached to the manifold group are filled. Then bring the pressure in the system to 5 bar. The pressure will gradually decrease, this is normal. When the pressure reaches 2-3 bar, the decrease should stop. Bring the pressure back to 5 bar, repeat this cycle several times. Carefully inspect all circulation circuits, make sure that there are no even minor leaks.

Video - Mixing unit for underfloor heating

Bring the pressure in the system to 1.5-2 bar, which corresponds to the working pressure, and leave it there for a day. The pressure should not drop. If everything is in order, then you can proceed to the final tests.

Set the boiler to the maximum working temperature and set the circulation pumps to reach the working pressure. If the underfloor heating complements the radiator heating, then set the regulators of the mixing units to the operating marks. Wait for the entire system to warm up completely. Make sure that all circulation circuits are warm and at approximately the same level. Check it out again in a day. If everything is in order, then you can turn off the heating and get ready to pour the finishing screed.

Pouring the finishing screed

The screed can only be poured onto completely cooled pipes; it is not allowed to pour the screed if the temperature of the pipes is above 25 degrees.

The best option is to use a special screed for a warm floor, it has the best thermal conductivity and heats up as evenly as possible.

It is not allowed to turn on the heating of the warm floor until the screed is completely dry, usually this requires at least 28 days.

Any topcoat can be placed on top of the screed, but the best effect is achieved with tiles and laminates.

Video - Technology of laying a water-heated floor

11 minutes to read. Posted on 21.10.2019

Recently, warm water floor has attracted more and more interest. This is quite natural: it is superior in efficiency to an electrically heated floor, but at the same time it is much more economical. Consider how to make a warm water floor with your own hands.

Recently, warm water floor has attracted more and more interest. This is quite natural: it is superior in efficiency to an electrically heated floor, but at the same time it is much more economical. However, installation of the structure is not cheap. Therefore, many are interested in the question: can you do it yourself? Let's talk in more detail about whether it is possible to assemble a warm water floor with your own hands in an apartment or a private house.

Advantages of a water-heated floor

So, what are the advantages of a warm water floor system compared to other similar schemes? Here are the main pros.

• Profitability... The warm water floor can be powered from the heating boiler of a private house. This allows the attachment to be used at no additional cost. Electric floor heating does not have such an advantage - it must be connected to the network and it consumes quite a lot of energy.
• Long service life... The duration of the structure's operation is on average 50 years. And if you use high quality pipes, it will be much larger. In the case of an electrical device, such a service life cannot be achieved - the heating elements wear out very quickly and can easily burn out.
• Can be used instead of batteries... The design is capable of completely replacing the heating system batteries. They are dismantled, and the hot one is sent to the floor system.
• Possibility of fine adjustment of temperature... The design includes a pump, with which you can easily control the heating temperature of the floor covering. And if you include a thermostat in the system, this process can be automated - the desired temperature will be maintained without human intervention.
• Low price... Unlike an electric underfloor heating, a water one does not need heating elements. When assembling, only pipes made of polymer material are used. And they are much cheaper than electrical components.
• High level of security... When using an electrical design, a burnout of the heating element can in some cases lead to a short circuit. This, in turn, can cause a fire in the wiring and a fire in a residential area. Water circuits do not carry such a risk when used - the most that can happen is water leakage and malfunctioning of the heating system. This, of course, is not very pleasant, but not as critical as wiring problems that threaten a fire.

Underfloor heating construction

The construction of a warm floor powered by water includes the following elements:

• concrete base;
• aluminum substrates;
• plastic pipes;
• concrete pavement with screeds;
• finishing coating (tiles, parquet, laminate);
• pump.

Plastic pipes with good thermal conductivity in the floor are laid on aluminum substrates placed on a concrete base. A layer of concrete is poured over them, and on it there is a fine floor covering.

Sometimes a layer of foamed polyethylene or moisture-resistant cardboard is placed between the pipes and the concrete layer as additional protection.

Also, a thermostat can be included in the design, which works on the principle of a relay and allows you to regulate the floor temperature in automatic mode.

Requirements for rooms where a warm water floor will be installed

It is customary to carry out a warm water floor at the construction stage, when the dwelling has not yet been commissioned. However, it can also be mounted in premises that are already in use. However, it should be remembered that they must meet a number of criteria that are due to the design features of the warm floor, as well as some safety requirements. These criteria are:

• Sufficient ceiling height... The warm floor is large enough. Its total thickness can reach 25 centimeters, and sometimes even exceed this figure. Thus, after installation, the distance to the ceiling will be reduced. If it was low before, then the room will be uncomfortable.
• High doorways... Everything is exactly the same as with ceilings - after installation, doorways will lose some of their height. Therefore, they must be at least 210 centimeters.
• Solid floor... The laid pipes, through which hot water will circulate, are poured with concrete. This leads to the fact that the finished structure is quite heavy. Also, its weight increases significantly after water begins to circulate through the pipes. Therefore, the base on which the installation takes place must be strong enough to withstand the additional load.
• There should be no serious heat loss in the room... Their total volume should not exceed 100 watts per 1 square meter. Otherwise, the entire effectiveness of the warm floor will come to naught - it simply will not be able to cope with its work and heat a cold room.
• The pipe-laying base must be flat, do not have depressions, protrusions, or other irregularities. Their presence will lead to deformation of the tubes. And such deformation, in turn, will significantly disrupt the circulation of water. This can negatively affect not only the operation of the warmest floor, but also adversely affect the functioning of the entire heating system as a whole, causing stagnation in it.

Calculation of the cost of a warm water floor

The cost of a warm water floor depends on four main factors:

• materials used in the work;
• in addition, work is being carried out with the involvement of a contractor or independently;
• the area of ​​the room where the structure is mounted;
• installation method and system features.

If we assume that materials of the middle price category will be used during installation, the assembly will be done on our own, and the structure will include a thermostat for automatic temperature control, then the cost of the installation, taking into account the area of ​​the room, will look like this.

It should be borne in mind that the table shows approximate average prices. In different regions of the Russian Federation, they may differ (sometimes quite significantly). In addition, when working with premises of a large area, it is possible to purchase building materials at wholesale or close to them prices, which significantly reduces the total cost of work. Therefore, the calculation in each case will be individual.

Methods for installing water circuits

There are two most common methods for installing the water circuits of the underfloor heating system:

• spiral;
• coil.

The most popular of all is pipe-laying in a spiral. This is due to the fact that this installation method contributes to a more even distribution of warm water throughout the system and prevents heat loss. Thus, it has the best energy efficiency.

The second type of styling is "snake". Compared to the spiral, it works much worse. Due to the fact that hot water enters from one end and exits from the other, while overcoming a considerable distance inside the tubes, a lot of heat is lost. Nevertheless, the "snake" is widely used. The fact is that when laying in a spiral it is very difficult to get around obstacles. For example, it is very difficult to lay pipes in a spiral manner in a room with a complex layout. But with the "snake" there are no special problems.

There is a third, less common type of styling - a double "snake". When using it, the pipe is folded in two, and only then a coil is formed from it. The installation of such a system is somewhat simpler, and the heat loss is slightly lower compared to a traditional coil. However, its implementation requires a longer tube length, so it is somewhat more expensive.

The choice of material for underfloor heating

How to choose a good floor heating pipe

Here are a few rules to help you choose really good pipes for your underfloor heating system.

• In no case should metal be used. This is due to two factors. Firstly, the use of metal pipes is prohibited by building codes. Secondly, they significantly increase the weight of the structure and can lead to deformation of the concrete base of the floor.
• It is necessary to use heat-resistant pipes. The pipes must withstand a thermal load close to 100 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, when the temperature in the heating system rises, they may deform or leak.
• The inside of the pipes must be perfectly smooth. This will make the circulation of fluid through them unhindered and as efficient as possible.
• It is best to choose pipes reinforced with metal fibers. They are more expensive, but they are able to withstand the pressure of the concrete that is above them. Polyethylene pipes without reinforcement are also suitable.
• The tube diameter should be between 16 and 20 millimeters. If it is less than this range, the pressure in the system will be too high, if it is more, it will be too low.

Heating pipe

The choice of insulation for a warm floor

For underfloor heating, the following types of insulation are used.

• Thermal insulation boards made of polystyrene or natural cork. The main advantage of this type of insulation is that it passes water evaporation well, preventing the formation of excessive moisture between the layers of the structure.
• Mineral wool. It retains heat well and allows fumes to pass through, is cheap, but easily deformed, while losing its properties.
• Profile systems. The main advantage of this type of insulation is ease of installation. The disadvantage is poor moisture conductivity.

Thermal insulation

Choice of a collector-mixing unit

• Give preference to steel devices. Headers for underfloor heating are made of brass or stainless steel. Brass fixtures are susceptible to corrosion. But steel structures are devoid of this drawback. There are also polymer collectors in stores. They are cheaper than the other two options, but they are not very reliable.
• Choose a powerful collector. The more powerful the collector, the better the fluid circulates in the system, which means the warmer the floor. However, it should be remembered that for small rooms too powerful collectors are redundant - they can be fully heated by the efforts of weaker devices.

Collector group for underfloor heating

DIY installation of a water-heated floor

Let's consider in more detail the procedure for self-installation of a water-heated floor. Below is a step-by-step instruction on how to properly lay the underfloor heating system.

DIY tools for installing a warm water floor

In order to put a warm floor, you will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• pliers;
• nippers;
• building level;
• screwdriver;
• puncher;
• drill screwdriver;
• pipe cutter;
• water key;
• apparatus for welding polymer pipes (if unreinforced polypropylene pipes are used);
• set of wrenches;
• container for mixing cement.

drill driver

Installation of insulation and waterproofing

When the preparation of the concrete base is completed, thermal insulation material is evenly laid on it. When fully laid, waterproofing is placed on top of it.

It is worth noting that some craftsmen put waterproofing underneath the insulation.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Before laying the pipes, a reinforcing mesh is placed on the insulation. It firmly fixes the system and prevents the displacement of its elements when pouring concrete. There are no secrets of its installation - the mesh is simply evenly distributed over the surface to be treated.

When the reinforcement is laid, pipes are laid on it, and then attached to it. It should be remembered that in no case should the pipes be pulled to the grid too strongly - when heated, they expand and strong contraction can create an obstacle to the movement of water through the system.

The pipes are connected to the mesh using small pieces of steel wire purchased from the hardware store with mounting steel clamps or in any other convenient way.

reinforcing mesh for floor screed

Installation of a pipe for a warm water floor

After laying the hydro and thermal insulation, the pipes of the underfloor heating are laid. In this case, the distance from the pipe to the wall should not be less than 20 centimeters. When laying, the pipes are fixed with steel clamps or wire. If the pipe does not bend well, it can be heated slightly to give it elasticity. In some cases, polypropylene pipes cannot be bent at all, so they are cut and then welded using plumbing corners. With reinforced pipes, this problem does not arise - they can be easily bent by hand without the use of additional tools.

When the pipes are completely laid, they are connected to the manifold. To do this, you need a water tap or a regular wrench. The connection must be reliable and completely exclude liquid leaks.

Underfloor heating mat

System testing

When all layers of the system are installed and it is connected to the manifold, it is tested. It is important to do this before the concrete is poured, as there will be no way to troubleshoot afterwards. When testing, pay attention to the following points:

• how well the water circulates through the pipes;
• are there any leaks;
• whether the heat is conducted well.

Pouring concrete screed

If the testing was successful and no shortcomings were identified during its course, the mounted structure is evenly poured with concrete.

To obtain the most even floor, this is done using:

• beacon profiles;
• additional reinforcing mesh.

When using an additional mesh, it is important that it is very light. Otherwise, it can put strong pressure on the pipes and disrupt the circulation of water inside them.

The total thickness of the concrete pour should be 5-7 centimeters.

Conclusion

Warm water floor is an effective means of heating a living space. It has a number of advantages over its electrical counterpart: inexpensive and simple assembly, reliability, and efficiency. You can mount the structure yourself. However, in order to avoid mistakes during installation, you need to follow simple rules and remember a few important nuances.

In this article, we will look at how you can make a warm water floor yourself. What tools and materials will you need. What are the important points and nuances to consider during installation. And also consider the popular schemes for underfloor heating.

If you have decided in our article "" that in your home you want exactly a water-heated floor, then let's learn how to do it yourself. Even if you entrust the installation of underfloor heating to specialists, knowledge of the installation process and its important points will help you to control workers more effectively.

Pipe

For water heated floors, pipes made of cross-linked polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are used. Read more. Important points when choosing a pipe are its working pressure (10 bar) and the withstanding temperature (above 90 ° C). Pipes certified for sale have predetermined characteristics, so this point is usually not paid attention to. More attention is being paid to pipe diameter and characteristics such as anti-oxygen coating. The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the calculation of the warm floor and varies between 16-20 mm. If you do not want to make the calculation or cannot, your choice is a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. The anti-oxygen coating of the pipe is designed to provide a minimum amount of air in the underfloor heating system. Note that with proper installation and a sufficient pipe cross-section, such a pipe characteristic becomes unnecessary. All other characteristics and features of pipes for a water-heated floor are designed by marketers to ensure a comfortable existence for pipe manufacturers, so consider them based on your own beliefs and capabilities.

Collector (switch cabinet)

An important part of the underfloor heating system. All branches and loops of underfloor heating pipes are collected here. This is where hot and cold water is mixed to the desired temperature. Here are the valves that regulate the heat of your floors by increasing or decreasing the amount of water in a separate circuit. As well as the temperature of the entire system as a whole. A pump can be installed in the control cabinet to pump the coolant through the pipes, if the power of the pump built into the boiler is not enough for this operation.

Important points.

• The number of valves should be equal to the number of return and flow pipes. If you have five underfloor heating circuits, take a collector with 10 valves (5x2 pipes).
• Variable valve manifold is highly recommended. This way you can customize each of the underfloor heating branches separately from the others. This is important because different rooms warm up differently. You should be able to increase or decrease the temperature in a separate room without changing the overall temperature of the heating medium.
• An air valve on the manifold is desirable to remove air bubbles from the underfloor heating system.

Insulation

Before laying pipes for a water-heated floor, the surface must be leveled (drops should not be more than 1 centimeter) and insulated. Concrete bases should be insulated, while wooden ones do not require insulation if they are of sufficient height. The thickness of the insulation layer varies between 20-150 mm, depending on what is underneath. If there is a ceiling of a heated room, then the layer will be small, and if cold floors are on the ground, then the layer thickness will increase. We recommend using extruded polystyrene foam as underfloor heating. It has the required strength, waterproofing and thermal insulation properties.

Fittings and consumables

Any specialized store will help you choose the necessary fittings and accessories for installing a warm water floor. There is nothing complicated about it.

• For the installation of pipe endings, "Eurocones" are taken.
• For pipe insulation - foam polypropylene insulation.
• You can also purchase pipe clamps. They serve to fix floor heating pipes in a contour with a given pitch.
• An important consumable is a damper tape. It will need to be glued around the perimeter of the thermal circuit to compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete floor screed. Without it, the screed may burst.
• Waterproofing film.
• It is generally recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh. Its role is rather dubious, so whether to put it or not is entirely your choice. We believe that with the proper screed thickness, pipe clamps and a solid base, no reinforcement mesh is needed. But if you do not have at least one of the listed factors, then reinforcement is worth thinking about.

Laying schemes for a water-heated floor

There are several schemes for laying pipes for a warm water floor. The main ones are:

• "Snail"
• "Snake"
• Combined

The meaning of various pipe laying schemes is in a more even heating of the floor. The scheme is selected depending on the type of room, the number of external walls, etc. The principle is that from the side of the outer walls, the pipe is laid in more frequent steps or with warmer water.

Design of a water heated floor

When designing, it is important to remember that the length of the pipe in one circuit should not exceed 90 meters. Otherwise, the water in the "return" will be too cold. And the resistance in a pipe of this length will be excessive. Therefore, the optimal pipe length for one circuit is 70-80 meters.

Divide all heated rooms into circuits with approximately the same pipe length. You will be helped to make all the calculations in our section of construction calculators. Remember that the colder the outside temperature is expected, the more often the pipe spacing should be. The standard for the laying step is a distance of 10-30 cm. With a larger laying step, the alternation of cold and warm areas of the floor cannot be avoided. And more often, there may be problems with bending pipes in the required bending points.

The procedure for installing a water heated floor

1. To begin with, the floor surface is thoroughly cleaned and leveled. Do not allow a height difference of more than 10 mm.
2. This is followed by waterproofing, if any.
3. After that, if thermal insulation is provided, it is laid. If it is not required, for example, a warm water floor is mounted on a wooden base, then proceed to the next step.
4. We fix the damper tape around the perimeter. It is important to take into account that it must be fixed along the perimeter of the heating circuit, and not the room. If the room is large in area, then it is divided into several thermal circuits. And the tape is laid along their perimeter. Let's say you have a living room of 4x6 meters. Divide it into 2 contours of 12 sq.m. and block them with a damper tape.
5. The next step is to mount the collector. From it we begin to do the piping. The part of the pipe that goes to the contour can be insulated with expanded polypropylene. This will allow you to more accurately regulate the temperature in different rooms. We fix the pipes either on rails or with special clips. Do not fasten too tightly, because the pipe should be able to expand with temperature.
6. If you have reinforcement, then lay a mesh of wire or reinforcement on top of the pipe. If reinforcement is not required, then the mesh can be useful for attaching floor heating pipes to it. Then it fits BEFORE the pipe.
7. We check the reliability of the assembled system. We fill the pipes with water and bring the pressure in the system to 4-6 bar. After a day, we look at the subject of leaks and pressure loss. If everything is in order, proceed to the next step.
8. We carry out the screed and let it dry for 28 days. Filling should take place with a filled system at operating pressure. But you do not need to turn on the hot water supply, because the screed should dry on its own, there is no need to speed up this process.
9. We finish the floor and enjoy the comfort of warm floors.

As you can see, making a water-heated floor with your own hands is not such a difficult task. And believe me, your spent work will pay off a hundredfold when you feel all the charm of walking on a warm floor in the cold winter season. Do not forget that underfloor heating is a rather inert heating system. And it will take several days to warm it up. Therefore, do not expect a harsh cold, but turn it on at the first sign of frost.

How to properly lay a warm floor. Video tutorial

Do you want to make your home cozy, modern and warm? Pay attention to the warm water floor. In this article, we will describe in detail all its advantages and disadvantages, we will tell you how to choose pipes and lay them, we will describe the diagram of the collector and the control system.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water-heated floor. Preparation of the base. The nuances of installation. Selection of pipes, methods of laying them, frequency of turns and fixing options. Screed and ripening dates.

Device and principle of operation

Water underfloor heating is a room heating system in which the coolant circulates along the circuit under the floor covering. Please note that the pipes are not always in the screed. There are "floor systems" in which the contour is not poured with concrete.

Upon closer examination, the water floor heating cake consists of the following elements:

1. Prepared base;
2. Screed (5 cm);
3. Heat insulator (5 cm);
4. Pipes (2 cm);
5. Screed (4 cm);
6. Floor covering (2 cm).

Depending on the pipes used, there may be several layers of waterproofing. The base is a subfloor in the basement or on the first floor of a private house. The first layer of screed is required precisely in the absence of a flat surface.

A heat insulator with a thickness of 5 cm is a standard solution. But if possible, it is better to increase the thickness to 10 cm. This increases the efficiency of the entire system by 10-15%. Especially if the water heated floor is arranged on the first floor. The best material for this layer is extruded polystyrene foam.

Pipes in the vast majority of water-heated floors are used with a diameter of 16 mm.

The second layer of the screed covers the entire system and serves as a giant heat accumulator.

The thickness of the cake of a water-heated floor varies from 18 to 23 cm. And the mass of 1 m 2 of this system reaches a quarter of a ton! Such harsh conditions significantly limit the spread of water-heated floors.

The circuit is connected to the pump and the boiler through a regulation and control system.

Where can I use

In view of the sufficient thickness and mass of the entire system, its use is limited to private housing construction. It is extremely irrational to install a water heated floor in apartments.

The main reason is the difficulty with connecting the power supply. It is possible to connect to the central heating system only after permission from the regulatory authorities. And getting it is almost impossible. Even if it does, the main leitmotif - autonomy - will disappear. We know of options for installing electric and even gas boilers in an apartment, but these are isolated cases that only confirm the rule: water underfloor heating is used only in private houses.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of underfloor heating are fully disclosed only when using cheap energy sources, such as: gas, coal, firewood. Heating the coolant with an electric boiler is about 7 times more expensive than when using gas equipment.

The giant heat capacity of the water floor heating system is another plus. The room in which there is ≈ 100 kg / m2 of heated concrete cannot cool down quickly (only the top layer of the screed is taken into account).

But there are also disadvantages. First of all, it is a monstrous inertia. It takes time and energy to warm up such a layer of screed.

The inertia leads to the fact that the temperature control of the heated water floor is very conditional. Control equipment takes temperature readings from the coolant, floor surface and air (in some thermostats). But changes made through the thermostat appear very slowly.

Installation of underfloor heating

The task is quite difficult, but doable. Only first you need to level the base. This is a very important requirement, given that it will still be necessary to level it and do it more efficiently with the first layer of screed. Why?

For example, the height difference in the room is 3 cm. If you immediately lay the pipe and only then level it with a screed, it turns out that in one corner the height of the cement mixture will be minimum - 4 cm, and in the other 7. So, during the operation of warm floors, with On one side, they will warm up 4, and on the other, 7 cm of concrete. Such an uneven load has a very detrimental effect on the entire system as a whole and leads to rapid damage to the floor covering.

Therefore, the first and important step is leveling the floors along the horizon. To prepare concrete floors you will need:

• Beacon profile;
• Laser level;
• Construction square;
• 5-10 kg of plaster;
• Primer;
• Mobile concrete mixer;
• Cement;
• The fiber is polypropylene.

Work progress:

The floors are swept and primed. While the soil dries, beacons are set up. For this, a laser level is set in the middle of the room so that the projection of the horizontal beam is at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. Then the height from the floor to the beam in different corners of the room is measured with a square and the highest point is determined from the results. In this place, the height of the screed will be the minimum permissible - 4 cm. In other places - according to the need.

For the installation of beacons, plaster of paris is diluted to a state of thick sour cream. Then, from the resulting mass, small heaps are made along one wall, with a step of 60-80 cm, a beacon profile is laid on them. Attaching a square to it, align it with the horizon, placing it at the desired height. There should be 50 cm from the wall to the first lighthouse. The distance between adjacent lighthouses varies depending on the length of the rule (focus on 1-1.3 m). Note, the plaster sets quickly, the work is carried out "without a smoke break."

After about 30-40 m, the screed can be poured. Cement is diluted with ASG in a ratio of 1: 5. Polypropylene fiber is added at the rate of 80 gr. per 100 liters of the mixture. Fiber is an element of dispersed reinforcement, qualitatively increasing the strength of the coating. In addition, after curing, the new surface will be perfectly smooth.

The resulting mixture is poured in such a way that each next portion goes 10-15 cm to the previous one. The screed is leveled according to the level of the rule, with an orientation along the beacons.

After pouring the entire surface, it takes time for the technical maturation of the cement-sand screed. Calculation, approximately, the next 1 cm of thickness - 1 week.

Thermal insulator laying

Extruded polystyrene foam and cross-linked polyethylene foam, only these two materials can be used for thermal insulation in a water-heated floor system.

Before laying the sheets of heat insulator, a damper tape 10-12 mm thick is glued around the perimeter of the room. It serves not only to compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed, but also to prevent heat from escaping into the walls. In height, it should protrude beyond the boundaries of the top layer of the screed.

The sheets of the heat insulator are laid out randomly and necessarily on the waterproofing layer. For waterproofing, it is best to use a polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.2 mm.

If you decide to make the insulation 10 cm thick, it will be better if you lay two layers of 5 cm thick slabs.

There is an option to use special slabs as a heat insulator designed for organizing water-heated floors. Their difference is in the bosses on one of the surfaces. A pipe is laid between these lugs. But their cost is unreasonably high. In addition, not all pipes will be held in such slabs. For example, polypropylene and polyethylene pipes are too resilient and will require additional fixation.

The pipes are not attached to the heat insulator. The fasteners must go through the foam layer and fix in the screed. This is a very time consuming process considering the amount of work involved.

Mounting tapes are a more acceptable solution, but it is very difficult to lay the pipe on them with a spiral (snail).

The best option would be to fix the pipes to the mesh. In this case, the mesh will serve specifically for fastening pipes, and not for reinforcing the screed.

There are special meshes made of biaxially oriented polypropylene, or you can use a simple masonry mesh.

Selection of pipes and their laying

The following types of pipes are suitable for a water-heated floor:

• Copper;
• Polypropylene;
• Polyethylene PERT and PEX;
• Reinforced plastic;
• Corrugated stainless steel.

They have their own strengths and weaknesses.

Characteristic Material	Radius	Heat transfer	Elasticity	Electrical conductivity	Life time*	Price for 1 m. **	Comments (1)
Polypropylene	Ø 8	Low	High	No	20 years	22 RUR	Bend only with heating. Frost resistant.
Polyethylene PERT / PEX	Ø 5	Low	High	No	20/25 years old	36/55 RUR	Cannot withstand overheating.
Metal-plastic	Ø 8	Below the average	No	No	25 years	60 RUR	Bending only with special equipment. Not frost resistant.
Copper	Ø3	High	No	Yes, requires grounding	50 years	240 RUR	Good electrical conductivity can cause corrosion. Grounding required.
Corrugated stainless steel	Ø 2.5-3	High	No	Yes, requires grounding	30 years	92 RUR

Note:

* the characteristics of pipes are considered when operating in water heated floors.

** Prices are taken from the Yandex.market.

The choice is very difficult when trying to save money on yourself. Of course, you can not take copper for consideration - it is very expensive. But corrugated stainless steel, at a higher price, has extremely good heat transfer. The temperature difference in the return and in the supply is the largest. This means that they give off heat better than their competitors. Considering the small bend radius, ease of use and high performance, this is the most worthy choice.

Laying of pipes is possible with a spiral and a snake. Each option has pros and cons:

• The snake is a simple installation, almost always there is a "zebra effect".
• Snail - uniform heating, material consumption increases by 20%, laying is more laborious and laborious.

But these methods can be combined within the same contour. For example, along the walls "looking" to the street, the pipe is laid with a snake, and on the rest of the area with a snail. You can also change the frequency of the turns.

There are generally accepted standards that professionals are guided by:

• Step - 20 cm;
• The length of the pipe in one circuit is not more than 120 m;
• If there are several contours, then their length should be the same.

It is better not to start pipes for stationary and large-sized interior items. For example, under a gas stove.

IMPORTANT: be sure to draw the installation scheme to scale.

Laying begins from the collector. By unwinding the coil, the pipe is fixed according to the diagram. It is convenient to use plastic clamps for fastening.

Corrugated stainless steel is produced in coils of 50 m. To connect it, use proprietary couplings.

The last element laid between the pipe turns is a thermal sensor. It is pushed into the corrugated pipe, the end of which is plugged and tied to the mesh. The distance from the wall is at least 0.5 m. Do not forget: 1 circuit - 1 thermal sensor. The other end of the corrugated pipe is brought out to the wall and then, along the shortest path, is brought to the thermostat.

Control system and pressure testing of the circuit

The water underfloor heating control system includes:

1. Pump;
2. Boiler;
3. Collector;
4. Thermostat.

The arrangement of all elements in compliance with the technical parameters is a very difficult heat engineering task. The calculation takes into account the mass of parameters starting from the number of fittings and the length of the pipes, and ending with the thickness of the walls and the region of the country. In general terms, you can focus on the following data:

1. The pump can only be used as a circulating pump. "Wet" type of pump, more reliable than "Dry" and less demanding in service.

To calculate performance, use the following formula:

P = 0.172 x W.

Where W is the power of the heating system.

For example, with a system power of 20 kW, the pump capacity should be 20 x 0.172 = 3.44 m 3 / h. Round the result up.

The pressure is calculated by a more complex technique. After all, the pipes are located horizontally, and the pump characteristics show the vertical head. Use the following formula: H = (L * K) + Z / 10. Where L is the total length of the circuits, K is the coefficient of pressure loss from friction (indicated in the pipe passport, translated into MPa), Z is the coefficient of pressure reduction in additional elements

Z 1 - 1.7 thermostat valve;

Z 2 - 1.2 mixer;

Z 3 - 1,3 valves and fittings.

For example, it looks like this, for example, there are 3 circuits, 120 m each. In total, there are 18 fittings, 3 thermostat valves, 1 mixer. Pipe - corrugated stainless steel ø16 mm, loss factor 0.025 MPa.

H = (120 * 3 * 0.025) + ((1.7 * 3) + (1.3 * 1) + (1.2 * 18)) / 10 = 9 + (5.1 + 1.3 + 21 , 6) / 10 = 11.8 m.The result is rounded up - the pump head is 12 m.

1. Boiler power is calculated according to the formula W = S * 0.1. Where S is the area of ​​the house. There are also a lot of correction factors, depending on the thickness and material of the walls of the house, the climate of the region, number of storeys, the presence of adjacent rooms.

Please note that the leaving water temperature must be over 30 - 35'˚C. To withstand this temperature, a mixer is installed in front of the manifold. In it, water is mixed to the desired temperature before being fed into the circuit.

1. The manifold regulates the water supply in each circuit. Without it, water will follow the path of least resistance to flow, that is, along the shortest path. The regulation is carried out by servo drives, according to the data from the thermostat.
2. Thermostats monitor the temperature in controlled rooms by taking readings from temperature sensors.

Before pressing the circuit, it is flushed and only then connected to the manifold. Water is supplied under normal pressure, but the temperature is increased by 4˚C per hour to 50˚C. In this mode, the system should function for 60-72 hours. IMPORTANT: constant monitoring is required during crimping!

At home, without the use of special equipment, it is impossible to pressurize with high pressure.

If the check did not reveal any flaws in the installation, then you can proceed to further operations.

Screed

IMPORTANT: the top layer of the screed is poured only when the contour is filled. But before that, the metal pipes are grounded and covered with a thick plastic wrap. This is an important condition to prevent corrosion due to electrochemical interactions of materials.

The issue of reinforcement can be solved in two ways. The first is to put a masonry mesh on top of the pipe. But with this option, cracks may appear as a result of shrinkage.

Another way is dispersed fiber reinforcement. When pouring water-heated floors, steel fiber is the best choice. Added in the amount of 1 kg / m 3 of the solution, it will be evenly distributed throughout the volume and will qualitatively increase the strength of the hardened concrete. Polypropylene fiber is much less suitable for the top layer of the screed, because the strength characteristics of steel and polypropylene do not even compete with each other.

Beacons are installed and the solution is mixed according to the above recipe. The screed thickness must be at least 4 cm above the pipe surface. Considering that the pipe ø is 16 mm, the total thickness will reach 6 cm. The maturation time of such a layer of cement screed is 1.5 months. IMPORTANT: It is unacceptable to speed up the process by including floor heating! It is a complex chemical reaction of "cement stone" formation that occurs in the presence of water. And heating will cause it to evaporate.

The ripening of the screed can be accelerated by including special additives in the recipe. Some of them cause complete hydration of the cement within 7 days. And besides this, they significantly reduce shrinkage.

You can determine the readiness of the screed by placing a roll of toilet paper on the surface and covering it with a saucepan. If the ripening process is over, then in the morning the paper will be dry.

First turn on

A very important stage in the operation of a water heated floor. So that the screed does not crack from uneven heating, and the pipes are not damaged, the inclusion is carried out according to the following scheme:

1 day - temperature 20 ˚C.

2 days - increase the temperature by 3 ˚C.

On the 3rd and the next day, the temperature is raised by 4 ˚C, until the operating mode is reached.

Only after that, you can proceed to the installation of the floor covering.