Grow good harvestcauliflower not difficult. Thus, you will provide yourself with a supply of the entire complex of vitamins and mineral salts throughout the winter.

Hello friends and guests of the block!

1. Cauliflower– This is a vegetable rich in vitamins and mineral salts, an easily digestible product.

Cauliflower– has always been considered a delicacy. It is used in dietary nutrition, many delicious and nutritious dishes are prepared from it. The part of the plant used for food is the head, formed from fleshy peduncles fused together. This crop can bear fruit under film covers from May to October.

2. Cauliflower is very demanding on soil fertility, soil moisture, and temperature conditions.

When cultivating cauliflower, it is necessary to take into account that growing conditions depend on the timing of cultivation. Cabbage intended for early harvest is best grown in greenhouses. When disembarking at open ground you need to choose warm, sunny places. One of mandatory conditions good harvest - high humidity air. In the shade, cauliflower grows densely leafy, and the heads turn out small and inconspicuous. This crop grows best on humus-rich loamy and sandy loam soils. If the soil is poor, do not skimp on fertilizing. Almost any crop can serve as a precursor for cauliflower. It’s just not advisable to plant it after representatives of the cruciferous family. In some areas, cauliflower is grown in the same places for several years, and at the same time they get excellent harvests, but in the middle zone. Moreover, in the northern regions it is better not to take risks and alternate crops in one place.

3. Sow cauliflower in several stages.

If spring is early and warm, and the soil has warmed up well, you can plant cauliflower in the ground at the end of March - beginning of April. Only in this case it is necessary to make a temporary film shelter. And to guarantee receipt have a good first harvest, use a greenhouse or greenhouse. The time from the moment of planting seedlings to the ripening of the heads will be 50-55 days, so cauliflower will not interfere with the planting and growth of the main residents of the greenhouse - tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers.

Ripens cauliflower not at the same time. In the greenhouse, harvesting lasts 1-2 weeks, in the beds - 3-4 weeks, and in the fall - for the whole month. Therefore, if you want to enjoy tender, tasty inflorescences all summer, sow it every 3-4 weeks. The deadline for possible seeding ranges from July 10 to July 20 for different local climate conditions. Cauliflower is an excellent stubble crop. It can be safely planted after harvesting. early vegetables so that the soil does not become empty.

4. It is very important to choose the right cabbage varieties.

Varieties with a short growing season are suitable for growing in protected soil. But we must take into account that even in greenhouses, small, non-marketable heads can turn out under unfavorable weather conditions. Guarantee of a good harvest - a friendly spring, with abundance sunny days. The most common (and most reliable) are mid-early varieties, which are sown in May and bear fruit in July - August. You should be careful with late varieties with a long growing season - there is always a risk that in our climatic conditions they will not have time to ripen.

5. The guarantee of a guaranteed good harvest - good seedlings

Sign healthy seedlings this is a strong bush, with dark green leaves. To avoid stunting the growth of plants, seedlings are planted together with a clod of earth, and best of all, right in peat pots. Full-fledged heads will not grow from underdeveloped seedlings suffering from a lack of nutrients, or from overgrown ones.

You can sow cauliflower in a greenhouse at the end of February - either in pots, or directly in rows in the garden. It is a good idea to mulch your cabbage plantings with a mixture of peat and sand; this will greatly facilitate the germination of seedlings. The seedlings are transplanted to permanent place in 7-8 weeks.

By following these simple recommendations you will grow a good harvest of cauliflower.

6. When growing cauliflower, only radishes and green crops can be used as compactors because it grows quickly.

Radishes are sown between rows with a distance in the row of 3-5 cm in two rows. At the same time, the radishes should be early, with short term growing season.

7. Depending on the variety, the cauliflower planting scheme is adopted.

Cauliflower under glass and film can be planted at a distance of 30x40 cm or 40x40 cm. For early varieties in open ground, it is better to stick to a pattern of 40x40 cm or 50x40 cm. It is recommended to plant mid-early varieties at a distance of 50x50 cm. Later varieties are more bushy and they require a larger “living space” - 60x60 cm. When planting seedlings of early varieties, they should not be buried too deep. It is desirable that the roots of the seedling be in a more sun-warmed, near-surface layer. This will significantly speed up the growth of the plant early spring. After planting the plants, they need to be earthed up two weeks later.

8. Since cauliflower is afraid of frost, build a “protective hut” for it.

Each cabbage bush planted before mid-May will be covered by a zealous owner with a special cap or covering material. Also in early spring, when the danger of frost is especially high, you can cover a bed with seedlings with perforated film (300 holes per 1 sq. m), it is stretched over frames 10-12 cm high in such a way that the film creates a suitable microclimate and at the same time did not crush the plants. Using this method, you can get a cauliflower harvest 6-8 days earlier. The film is removed 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings, depending on the weather).

9. Cauliflower responds well to fertilizers, both mineral and organic.

Therefore, it is recommended to grow it in well-fertilized soils. In addition, cauliflower needs 3-5 fertilizing (5 g of Nitrogen per square meter), first three weeks after planting the seedlings. You can also feed it with mullein. Microelements are also useful for cauliflower - molybdenum and boron are especially important.

Cauliflower prefers soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.8-7.2). On soils with an acidic reaction, liming is necessary in the spring.

10. To obtain a guaranteed harvest, regular plant care is necessary.

Cauliflower does not tolerate drought and is responsive to wet soil. During the head setting period, three to four days of thirst can ruin the harvest! During the growing season, it is necessary to arrange “general watering” 4-5 times: up to two buckets of water for each square meter. m. At the same time, the soil should not be allowed to dry out; the plants should be watered regularly. Excellent results provides soil mulching organic materials At the same time, moisture is retained, the soil remains loose, and a hard crust does not form on it after rains. If for some reason you do not mulch the soil, then you need to systematically weed and loosen the soil.

11. It is important not to miss harvest time!

The heads are cut off, preventing separation of the inflorescences. In the heat, they quickly overripe, darken and separate. Although new varieties are more resistant to sun exposure, it is better to play it safe and shade the heads with broken or tent-tied leaves. Cauliflower late varieties collected before frost. Unripe plants can be transferred to a greenhouse for growing and watered abundantly. You can leave the cabbage in the garden bed, building a film shelter, like in the spring.

You can look at cauliflower recipes

By following these simple recommendations, you are guaranteed to grow a good harvest of cauliflower and provide yourself with a supply of vitamins and mineral salts throughout the winter.

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The seedlings on the windowsill became cramped. And in the loggia it’s not very pleasant either. I want real direct sun, a gentle breeze. The seedlings are asking for space, in the ground. Finally, the seedlings are leaving for the dacha. Now let's begin preparing it for landing in a permanent place.

Hardening

Before planting seedlings outdoors or closed ground, it is necessary to carry out measures to harden it. Pampered seedlings are not capable of sharp changes day and night temperatures form an early harvest.

First of all, you need to accustom her to sun rays. Otherwise, delicate plants will receive ultraviolet burns - whitish spots on the leaves. We will gradually accustom him to the sun, starting with 15 minutes a day. Every day we will lengthen the sunbathing by about 5, and then by 10-15 minutes. The plants will grow stronger before our eyes and acquire a “tan”, i.e. will darken slightly in color. At the same time, they will get used to a large number oxygen-rich air towards the wind.

The last 7-10 days before planting, the seedlings should be watered minimally, because... watering leads to greater tissue tenderness.

We will definitely acclimate the seedlings to low night temperatures. The greatest effect of adaptation to low temperatures is obtained if, a week before planting, night temperatures are lowered to 8-12 °C. To do this, we will begin to leave the seedlings outside not only during the day, but also at night. Good result gives spraying of seedlings with Epin.

May is the main time for planting seedlings both in open ground and in greenhouses. We plant cabbage, parsley, celery, fennel, tomatoes, and often peppers and eggplants. It should be noted that all the dates indicated below refer to the time when the so-called global warming. At that time, there were night frosts almost every year in early May. However, no such frosts have been observed over the past two years. If such “pleasures” in the weather continue, then the seedlings can be planted earlier than I wrote. In any case, we will closely monitor the weather.

Planting seedlings in open ground

In May we begin to plant cabbage seedlings in the beds. Hardened seedlings white cabbage withstands frosts down to -3-5 °C, colored - up to -2 °C. However, seedlings exposed to such frosts produce a lower yield.

Therefore, the usual timeframes for planting seedlings, which have been worked out for years, so that they do not suffer from frost, are as follows. In the first ten days of May, we plant seedlings of the earliest white cabbage, Savoy, part of the broccoli cabbage seedlings, as well as seedlings of late varieties of white cabbage. If severe night frosts are not expected, then you can plant several cauliflower plants - for early harvest.

We bury each plant into the soil almost up to its ears, i.e. to cotyledons. If the seedlings are very elongated, they will have to be buried almost to the growth point. Before that lower leaves You need to carefully tear it off and dry the resulting wounds. It is useful to put a paper cap on each plant to protect it from the sun; on top of everything it would be nice to put a water bottle with the bottom cut off.

After a day or two, put away the newspaper in the evenings, when the sun begins to set, and then during the day. After a few days, you can remove the bottle. With such protection, the plants do not stretch and easily take root without losing existing leaves. In case of night frosts, the newspaper and bottle can be returned to their place.

In the middle ten days of May, we plant seedlings of white cabbage of medium maturity - for pickling, and cauliflower seedlings. At the end of the decade, we plant the remains of early varieties of broccoli and cauliflower so that the harvest of these crops is extended. We also plant seedlings of Chinese and Japanese cabbage. In mid-May, it is good to plant seedlings of late varieties of red and savoy cabbage. If you didn’t have time or the weather didn’t allow it, you can plant all this in the last ten days. The planting technique is the same as for early varieties.

Around mid-May, we plant petiole celery seedlings. Root celery seedlings are planted in place approximately in the middle or end of May, when the average daily air temperature exceeds 10 ° C. It is not worth planting earlier, because in the event of a prolonged cold spring, the plants may go to the stem.

Hardened seedlings can withstand frosts down to –4 °C. When planting, you must try not to disturb the earthen lump. Also make sure that the growing point is not covered with soil. The same applies to vegetable fennel seedlings. Seedlings leaf celery and parsley can be planted earlier.

Tomatoes

At the end of May, you can plant outdoor tomato seedlings in the garden beds. The specific landing dates are very dependent on the weather.

How to determine the disembarkation time? The time of planting seedlings in the ground is very important. It is known that tomato plants planted at the wrong time sharply reduce yield. It is customary to plant seedlings in open ground after the end of night frosts - in our region this is June 10 (the date is indicated before global warming), or even later.

However, June frosts occur in our region 2-3 times a decade. And plant in such late dates- means losing the harvest. Therefore, to get an early harvest, you can take a risk and plant some of the seedlings on May 20-25, leaving the rest in case of death for re-planting.

If you are at the dacha all the time, then you can plant all the seedlings at once and in case of frost, simply cover them.

Eat folk way determining the time for planting seedlings in open ground or under temporary film shelters- this is when the buds begin to bloom fruit trees. True, in our area trees can make mistakes.

It is better to focus on temperature when planting seedlings. So, at 10 oC, a tomato does not grow, which means that the seedlings will not take root. When frozen at -3 °C, plants are severely damaged; at -4 °C, seedlings completely die.

Some tomato varieties can withstand frosts of -2 °C, but still produce a harvest low quality. Plants, after a long depression from frost, begin to grow, but are far behind in flowering and form fruits when the season is already over. Frosts of –1 °C may not damage the plants externally, but they delay the onset of fruit formation by 10-15 days. Moreover, the yield drops by 70-75% compared to plants that were not exposed to frost. Therefore, planted seedlings should not be exposed to even light frost.

Plant seedlings in early dates dangerous not only because of frost, but also because of low soil temperature. A sign of plant hypothermia - purple tint stems. Such plants are severely stunted in growth. For example, scientists give the following results: when planting seedlings, when the soil temperature was 10-15 oC, 132 g of fruits were obtained from one plant of the “Gruntovy Gribovsky” variety, not a single one of them was ripe. At a soil temperature of 15-20 oC, 379 g of fruits were already obtained, of which 318 g were fully ripe on the bushes. Impressive results. Moreover, it was found that with a lack of heat, stems, leaves, and roots grow, but the plants do not bloom or set fruit. Therefore, there is no need to rush to plant seedlings in the ground or in a greenhouse, nor should you be late. After all, the healthiest and most delicious fruits are those that ripen on the plant, and not in warm corner in felt boots.
Therefore, you need to try to insulate the greenhouse and garden bed in the open ground in advance by covering them with film.

If you live permanently in the country, seedlings can be saved from frost by simply covering them with something warm. In any case, it is useful to cover seedlings outdoors with lutrasil. Therefore, you need to monitor the weather very carefully, and if frost is expected, cover the plantings well. Or wait it out and drop it off a few days later.

When planting, plants are buried in the ground until the first true leaves. If by this time the cotyledon leaves have been preserved, they can be removed and the wounds formed on the stem can be dried.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Seedlings are usually planted in a greenhouse two weeks earlier than in open ground. There is no need to rush here, you won’t win anyway. As mentioned above, if tomato seedlings are planted in cold soil, the yield on such bushes will be low. This is exactly what I got once when I planted seedlings in early May. It is better to overcome your desire to harvest before your neighbor, and start planting when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 15 ° C, or better yet, even more. But not below 10 oC.

When planting seedlings, one must not forget that the tomato is one of the most light-loving plants, so one of the main rules must be followed - do not thicken the plantings. Otherwise, it will not be possible to grow large fruits, and the chances of plants getting sick increase significantly.

If you have resorted to using biofuel, or you have a stationary greenhouse, then the seedlings can be planted even earlier, based on the soil temperature at the depth of the roots, which must be measured before planting.
In case of frost, the seedlings are covered inside the greenhouse with additional film or covering material.

Disembarkation methods

Seedlings need to be planted in such a way that the root system is no deeper than 20 cm in the ground. If the seedlings are strong and squat, they are planted vertically. If it is elongated and long-legged, then on the eve of planting you will have to tear off all the excess leaves so that the wounds dry out, and plant it in trenches in a reclining position.

Dug trenches need to be quickly filled warm water and put it there root system and part of the plant stem. Cover with earth. That's it, the plant is planted. In this case, the crown with leaves should look south so that the stem, protected by leaves, does not get sunburn. A stem without leaves will be covered with soil, and in the future new roots will grow from it.

It is better to plant tomatoes not at soil level, but on elevated ridges, at least 15-20 cm, to improve temperature and air modes soil.

If the weather is hot and sunny, the plants can be covered with newspaper for several days until they take root. Then gradually remove the newspapers, first at night, and then during the day. It is recommended not to water the first 10-15 days after planting the plant, so that the roots that form in the plant grow in depth and not near the surface. Although some experienced gardeners believe that, on the contrary, it is necessary to water the planted plants every day. Then the plants will be stronger and the harvest will be higher. Dear gardeners, try watering this way and that, and share your experience.

Peppers

Before planting in the greenhouse, I do not allow the plants to bloom; I mercilessly pluck out not only the bud in the first fork, but also other buds that are about to bloom. The first flowering is allowed only after planting in a greenhouse. Experience shows that the yield with such planting is much higher. Many gardeners are happy that when planting in the ground, ovaries have already formed. And in vain, because seedlings take root in ovaries more difficult than in buds.

I plant peppers in the same greenhouse with tomatoes and eggplants. I plant peppers “with my team”; they like more humid air than tomatoes.

Peppers are a more heat-loving crop than tomatoes. So, at a temperature of 13 oC, pepper no longer grows. Therefore, seedlings are planted in the greenhouse even later than tomatoes. Often you have to plant it not in May, but in the first ten days of June, when the night frosts end.

When planting, I dig a hole under each plant and pour it there. warm water, and I lower the roots into it, trying to gut the earthen lump a little - this way the roots grow better later. I cover it with earth in such a way that root collar deepened by no more than 1 cm. Usually in this place the seedlings form root tubercles, from which additional roots subsequently grow. The distance between plants is 40-45 cm.

The bushes grow up to 80 cm, they slightly shade each other. But this does not prevent them from developing normally and is even beneficial, protecting them from the too bright July sun, from the excess of which the plants suffer.
After planting, I cover the seedlings from the sun with newspapers. If it’s very hot during the day, I spray the plants with warm water, or you can water them from a watering can directly over the newspaper. I remove the shading in two weeks, when the seedlings have taken root and become more cheerful.

Text: Lyubov Bobrovskaya

“Garden Affairs” No. 5 (58), 2012

Need to pick up the right time for harvesting, use the appropriate tools and prepare the cabbage for long-term storage. You will also have to consider weather conditions and timely monitor the degree of maturity of a fastidious product.

Are you afraid of frost?

Is cauliflower afraid of autumn frosts? Cauliflower is known among other vegetables for being extremely thermophilic..

If the temperature environment falls below +8-10˚ C, then small heads begin to form at the base of the white inflorescence, which will subsequently become spare shoots. The development of the main inflorescence will most likely stop.

With the onset of cold weather, the growth of cauliflower slows down significantly, which requires immediately sending them for ripening at home. Severe frosts can damage cabbage heads, but it is still possible to save them with the help of greenhouses.

This is easy to implement only if a stable temperature of +10° C is maintained inside.

Whatever variety of cauliflower grows on your plot, pay close attention to the ripening period, keep track of those that are already ripe, and carefully cut them with a clean knife. An excellent time for harvesting will be warm weather, when there has been no rain for several weeks.

Try not to leave vegetables in the garden longer than expected, otherwise the inflorescences will turn yellow, become loose and lose an impressive amount of taste and nutrients.

There is no reason to worry if the cabbage is not yet ripe and it is starting to get cold outside. It is possible to collect the victims of low temperatures heads of cabbage with a diameter of 5 cm and send them for ripening in a greenhouse.

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Cabbage is a plant that is grown by almost every owner of a home garden or summer house. This delicious product is used for all kinds of salads, first courses, and also for cooking sauerkraut- the richest source of vitamin C, which we so lack in winter period. An important advantage of this vegetable is its resistance to all kinds of weather troubles, due to which some varieties are harvested at the end of autumn.

Cabbage is planted as seedlings, since this method is considered much more effective than simply sowing seeds in the ground. However, there is important nuance– timing of planting seedlings in open ground. Sprouted bushes are replanted in the first ten days of May, when there is still a risk of a drop in temperature at night. Therefore, a common question is whether planted cabbage seedlings can withstand frost. This is exactly what we will talk about today, and we will also figure out what to do in order to get good and tasty fruits.

Should you be afraid of crop loss?

In order to answer this question unambiguously, it is necessary to pay attention to whether the seedlings were hardened off. This criterion is key for the survival of young bushes. The difference is this:

1. Hardened seedlings can survive May frosts without much loss. If this procedure is carried out correctly, young plants will calmly survive a temperature drop to -3 degrees. Some gardeners claim that their cabbage withstood -4-5 degrees.
2. Unhardened seedlings. As a rule, it is grown in greenhouses, where there are no opportunities for hardening as such. Unfortunately, bushes very rarely tolerate even a minimal drop in temperature, which means that a good harvest is unlikely.

Thus, if you have carried out the hardening procedure, be calm about the survival of the bushes.

If you place plants in difficult conditions, some of them may not be able to withstand this, but the strongest shoots will only become stronger. When grown in greenhouse conditions the risk of losing seedlings is very high. Therefore, if you live in an unfavorable climate with regular frosts in early May, it is better not to risk it. As a last resort, you can get by with varieties that are planted in the ground later. Next, let's look at the tips. experienced gardeners about how to properly harden plants so that they can withstand harsh conditions without loss.

How is hardening carried out?

Many summer residents know that hardening off seedlings - the most important stage during its cultivation. Fragile, barely germinated plants may not withstand harsh conditions, so they must be prepared for planting. In fact, there is nothing fundamentally difficult about this. Let's look at the procedure in more detail.

The first stage of hardening is carried out during germination. Optimal temperature for this is 18-20 degrees. However, when seedlings begin to appear, it is recommended to tighten the regime somewhat:

• during the day – 15-17 degrees;
• at night – 8-10 degrees.

This solution helps not only to avoid freezing of the seedlings, but also to prevent the seedlings from stretching out.

About 10 days before planting cabbage in open ground, it is accustomed to fresh air. You need to start with the usual
opening the window. 3-4 hours of ventilation is quite enough. After a few days, you should begin to take out the seedlings fresh air. If you live in a private house, display them in the yard. If you live in an apartment and will be planting at the dacha, you can simply place the pots on the balcony. Please note: excessive light should not be allowed. If the last month of spring turned out to be sunny, it is recommended to slightly shade the seedlings, accustoming them to possible disadvantage Sveta.

When 4 days remain before the planned planting, the cabbage should be completely moved to fresh air. It is important to know that these days their watering is significantly reduced. You shouldn’t give too much water, but you shouldn’t overdry the soil either. It is recommended to moisten the soil in pots. In this way, the bushes will be accustomed to summer drought and insufficient moisture.

We can no longer imagine our diet without cabbage. Some people prefer it fresh, but it is also good fermented, as well as boiled, stewed and even fried, separately and as part of combined snacks and dishes. Cabbage gained its popularity due to its low calorie content and rich content of vitamins A, B1, B2, C, and calcium. The vegetable is resistant to cold, which is important for the middle zone and northern latitudes. However, due to prolonged exposure to low temperatures, cabbage loses its nutritional suitability.

General temperature requirements

A comfortable temperature for growing cabbage is 15-20° C. Heat above +25 is oppressive; in such heat, a head of cabbage will not form. It is necessary to moisten the soil well and maintain high ambient humidity. Hardened seedlings are not afraid spring frosts up to –5°. In autumn, cabbage can withstand frosts down to –8° C.

Despite this, cabbage seedlings are susceptible to prolonged cold (below –10° C). Under such conditions and with improper care, the vegetable often produces flowering shoots. Normally, they appear only in the second year of the plant’s life - this property is used to collect your own cabbage seeds.

If flower stalks appear in the first year of life, they must be removed immediately, otherwise the cabbage will be unsuitable for food: the head will not form, that’s all. nutrients the plant will focus on flowers and fruits to the detriment of foliage.

Advice! To avoid getting flowers instead of heads of cabbage, experienced gardeners It is recommended to grow cabbage from seeds rather than buying ready-made seedlings.

The right conditions for seeds and seedlings

Before sowing, the seeds are kept for a day in cold water(+2°C). This procedure increases germination and gives frost resistance to the crop. There are already fully prepared cabbage seeds on sale that are colored bright colors. However, they will also need soaking if they have been stored for a long time.

The landing time is determined taking into account varietal characteristics and climate conditions. The time required for growing seedlings is subtracted from the planned time of relocation to open ground.

These deadlines different varieties different:

• for red and white cabbage - 50-60 days;
• broccoli - 45 days;
• color - 50 days;
• Savoy - 30-50 days;
• kohlrabi - 35 days.

Based on this, early white and red cabbage varieties middle lane planted on March 5-10, late varieties - on March 15-30, and mid-season - approximately on April 15-20. Cauliflower and broccoli are planted in two stages: first on March 15, and then in the second half of May. By the end of April, Brussels sprouts are sown, and on March 15 -. Seedlings are grown in an open, illuminated place.

Composition of soil for seedlings

Seeds should be sown in soft but not too loose seedling soil containing 80% peat, approximately 5% sand and 20% turf. It is recommended to add compost to improve the quality and fertility of the soil. For 10 liters of soil you can also add 1 tbsp. l. lime, 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 3 tbsp. l. ash.

The soil mixture must be poured into containers for seedlings, thoroughly leveled and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. Make grooves on the surface of the earth with an interval of 3 cm. The seeds are sown in these hollows with an interval of 1 cm and sprinkled with the same prepared soil. Water carefully with warm water.

The box with seedlings is placed on the windowsill, and the soil is sprayed with water once a day. The seeds will sprout on the 5-7th day if the temperature is maintained at +18-20° C. When sprouts appear, the box with cabbage is taken out to a cool room with a temperature no higher than +7-8° C. If the seedlings are left in a warm place, they will drag on and most likely die.

Technology of picking seedlings

After 10 days, it is necessary to carry out a pick. Before the procedure, cabbage seedlings should be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. Then the seedlings are planted in containers measuring 6x6 centimeters, which are filled with the same soil. Each bush must be deepened to the cotyledon leaves.

Containers with picked seedlings are placed on the windowsill, where the temperature is +17-18° C, for 4-5 days to take root. Then the temperature drops during the day to +12-15°C, and at night - +10°C-12°C. Watering the seedlings is done when the soil dries out. Water temperature - +18-20° C. The room should be good ventilation.

Caring for cabbage seedlings

In the first two weeks, the growth of seedlings is very slow, then it becomes active. Plants with five to six true leaves are planted. 2-3 weeks before moving to open ground, they begin to harden cabbage seedlings with low temperature and light. To do this, containers are taken outside or to a cold place during the daytime.

Advice! Box with cabbage seedlings It is not recommended to keep at home. When you go to the country, take it with you. If the snow has not yet melted, then it must be cleared away and the box placed on cold soil. You need to choose an open, sun-warmed area. You can additionally install arcs on which to stretch the film. Under such conditions, you can expect the emergence of seedlings on the 10-12th day.

If there is a greenhouse in the garden, it is recommended to place a box with cabbage seedlings in it; installation of additional arcs with film is not required. An exception is necessary only for cauliflower seedlings, which cannot tolerate frost. Cabbage, Brussels sprouts and other varieties and species can withstand cold temperatures down to –5°C.

First foliar feeding carried out when the seedlings have 2 true leaves. To do this, make an aqueous solution of the drug containing microelements. The next time the fertilizer is applied at the beginning of the hardening course, using a small watering can. To do this, urea and potassium sulfate (one tablespoon each) are dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Planting in a permanent place

White cabbage is transplanted into the ground at the following times:

• early ripening varieties - from April 20 to May 5;
• mid-season - May 21-31;
• late ripening - May 15-20.

Spacing between rows of plants early variety should be 0.5 m, and the gap between bushes in a row should be 0.25 m. For mid-season and late varieties, these figures are 0.6 m and 0.35 m, respectively. Planting is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour or two before transplanting, the plants must be thoroughly watered. clean water. When moving, about a liter of water is poured into the hole, the seedlings are deepened to the lower true leaves and dug in. During the first three days, seedlings should be shaded. After 3-5 days, new ones are planted instead of dried bushes.

Advice! If your dacha has a permanent glass greenhouse, sow cabbage seeds directly in it, and not in a box. After all, from early spring the soil in the greenhouse is perfectly heated by the sun.

So, cold conditions for growing seedlings are a guarantee healthy harvest cabbage, but prolonged frosts should be avoided. By following our advice, you will get excellent, resilient cabbage seedlings that can develop into large, strong and tasty heads of cabbage.