It will be useful for novice home craftsmen to learn about methods for joining wooden parts. We are devoting a short educational program to this topic, which will describe the main types of carpentry joints and joints using glue, nails, screws or dowels, or without them at all.

Rules for selecting a connection depending on the type of load

End connections are the simplest; they are used when it is necessary to extend a part. Such connections best withstand compression loads, however, when cutting locks of a special shape, good resistance to twisting, stretching and bending can be achieved. The standard version of the end connection is with trimming to half the thickness of both parts. The cut can be straight or oblique; if necessary, to prevent bending, stretching or twisting, a spike or an obtuse angle is cut at the end of each cut, or the cut is stepped, forming a kind of “lock”.

1 - straight half-wood overlay; 2 — oblique pad; 3 - straight overlay with a stepped joint; 4 — half-timber overlay with an oblique joint; 5 — oblique patch lock; 6 - half-tree connection with an oblique tenon

Corner and side joints are used to connect straight parts into a truss or frame. Usually this part of the structure is supporting, so the main loads occur in displacement and compression. If the structure is experiencing a static intended load, a rectangular tenon is cut on one of the parts, and a groove or eye of appropriate dimensions is cut on the other. If action on breaking the structure is possible, the tenon and groove are cut in the shape of a trapezoid.

Corner connections: 1 - with an open through tenon; 2 - with a blind closed tenon; 3 - with a through oblique tenon

Overhead cross and T-shaped connections are used, as a rule, for additional connections between critical structural parts. The main load in them is compression, displacement and rupture. The first two types of load are eliminated by cutting half a tree or less, followed by combining the parts. The shoulders of the notches take the main load; all that remains is to secure the connection with screws or overhead staples. In some cases, to strengthen the connection, a dowel is used or a tenon with a wedge is cut out.

1 - cross connection with a half-wood overlay; 2 — cross connection with fit into one socket; 3 - T-shaped connection with a hidden oblique tenon; 4 - T-shaped connection with a straight stepped overlay

A separate type of connection is box connection. They are intended for connecting boards at right angles. Typically, for a box joint, teeth are cut on each board, the width of which is equal to the distance between them. On different boards the teeth are cut offset, so when connected, the corner of the boards looks like one whole. The teeth can also be wedge-shaped, preventing the corner from breaking in one direction, or they can be additionally secured with glue or nails.

Box corner connections: 1 - with straight through spikes; 2 - with oblique through spikes

How to make a tenon joint

To make a tenon joint, you need to outline both parts with a marking line along all edges at a distance from the end equal to the width of the joint. On two opposite sides and the end, the body of the tenon is marked with lines; the markings on both parts are completely identical.

The tenon is cut from the sides with a hacksaw for a cross cut and the wood is chopped using a chisel. The width of the tenon is made 2-3 mm larger for subsequent precise processing with a knife or chisel. The groove is cut with a hacksaw for a longitudinal cut and chipped with a chisel, also leaving a small allowance for processing. Next comes the fitting, during which the parts are combined and the tightest fit is achieved.

With a T-shaped tenon joint, a central tenon or groove is cut on one of the parts, and an eye is hollowed out on the other, or two side cuts are made, depending on the type of the first part. To make an eye, use a chisel, turning the inclined part of the blade into the hole. If the eye is not solid, I make the tenon 8-10 mm deeper and cut off its end in the shape of an expanded wedge. This way, when hammering in, the tenon will open itself and the part will be firmly seated.

To connect wide parts, you can use a box connection by cutting several tenons and grooves. The easiest way to fasten finger joint- drill through it across the tenons and hammer a wooden dowel (window corner joint) into the hole.

How to join boards with glue

A very popular method of joining boards and bars is longitudinal and transverse gluing. When connecting boards with the wide side, the end can be smooth, although in most cases a tongue-and-groove profile is used. It is very important to tightly fit the parts so that the glue layer is as thin as possible, this is the only way to achieve maximum strength. Sometimes a small amount of cotton fiber is applied to the end, lubricated with glue, this improves the quality of the coupling.

The boards can also be joined in profile, but this will require wedge-shaped gear cutting of both ends with the teeth offset to the floor for different parts. At home, this operation can be performed using a hand router.

To glue the parts together, casein glue or high concentration PVA is used; to give strength, sifted wood flour is added to the adhesive. The surfaces are covered with glue and kept in air for 3-5 minutes, after which they are placed under pressure or squeezed with clamps. This connection is stronger than the wood itself and never breaks at the joint.

How to join elements of load-bearing structures

For load-bearing structures Two types of connections are used - extension and articulation. The easiest way to join two parts is to make a half-thick cut with a hacksaw at the same distance from the ends, and then chop off the excess wood with an ax. Once the two pieces are aligned, the joint is usually secured by two flashing strips nailed to the side of the cut. Gluing is also possible, but only if the parts fit tightly.

The ends cut into half a tree can be brought together at almost any angle; this is the main joining method roof trusses. To fasten the parts, an additional tightening tie is required: the timber is applied to the connected parts from the side at a distance of 30-50 cm from the corner and cut to half the thickness at the points of contact, and then the structure is fastened with nails.

Often vertical and inclined structures need support, for example when connecting a rafter system to floor beams. In this case, the landing slots are cut on the horizontal beam into which the racks will be inserted. It is very important to maintain the angle of inclination and cut no more than a third of the thickness of the timber.

Connections with special connections

Almost all carpentry joints are made with additional reinforcing ties. In the very simple example the role of these is played by nails or screws.

When building up parts, the assembly can be strengthened through bolted connection, clamps, staples and capercaillie, or it is simply wrapped with cold-rolled wire. It is enough to fasten the spliced ​​vertical supports with two overhead strips - wooden or metal.

Corner joints are most often secured with staples, overlay plates or angles. In cases where it is necessary to maintain a slight mobility of the connection, use one through bolt, which either stitches across the place where the parts are overlayed, or tightens them in the longitudinal direction with a minimum distance from the overlay.

The place where the special connection is attached must be removed from the edge by at least 10 diameters of the fastening element and have no defects. It is important to remember that often ties do not provide the overall strength of the connection, but only compensate for the unaccounted load.

The rafter system is the most complex and one of the most important elements of the house; the comfort and operating time of the building largely depend on the correctness of its construction. Calculation and design rafter system should only be done by experienced builders or engineers with special training.

Designing a wooden rafter system is much more difficult than any metal structures. Why? In nature, there are no two boards with absolutely identical strength indicators; this parameter is influenced by many factors.

The metal has the same properties, which depend only on the grade of steel. The calculations will be accurate, the error will be minimal. With wood everything is much more complicated. In order to minimize the risk of system destruction, it is necessary to provide a large safety margin. Most decisions are made directly by the builders on site after assessing the condition of the lumber and taking into account the design features. Practical experience is very important.

Why do you need to splice rafters?

There are several reasons why rafters need to be spliced.

1. Roof length exceeds standard lumber length. The standard length of the boards does not exceed six meters. If the slope is large, the boards will have to be lengthened.
2. During construction there is a lot left good boards 3–4 m long. To reduce the estimated cost of the building and reduce the amount of unproductive waste, these pieces can be used to make rafters, having previously spliced ​​them together.

Important. It must be remembered that the strength of spliced ​​rafters is always lower than that of whole rafters. You should try to ensure that the splice point is located as close as possible to the vertical stops.

Splicing methods

There are several ways to splice, there is definitely no better or worse. Craftsmen make decisions taking into account their skills and the specific location of the joint.

Table. Methods of splicing rafters.

Splicing method	Brief description of the technology
	It is used on boards with a thickness of at least 35 mm. Enough complex method, requires practical experience in carpentry. In terms of strength, the connection is the weakest of all existing ones. The advantage is saving lumber. In practice, it is used very rarely on construction sites.
	The length of the rafter legs is increased with the help of an overlay. The cover can be wooden or metal. If the length of two sections of boards is not sufficient according to the parameters of the rafter system, then this method allows you to increase them. The butt connection has the most high performance bending strength, widely used during the construction of various structures.
	Overlapping. Two boards are fixed with an overlap. The simplest method is in the middle position in terms of strength. Disadvantage - the total length of the two boards must be greater than the design length rafter leg.

In this article we will look at the two simplest and most reliable splicing methods: butt and overlap. There is no point in touching the oblique cut; it is almost never used because large quantity shortcomings.

Requirements of building codes and regulations for splicing rafters

Inept splicing of rafters along the length can not only sharply reduce their resistance to bending loads, but also cause complete destruction of the structure. The consequences of this situation are very sad. Construction rules provide for certain rules when choosing the size of fasteners, their installation locations and the length of the overlays. The data is based on many years of practical experience.

Spliced ​​rafters will be much stronger if metal pins, rather than nails, are used to connect them. The instructions will help you make your own connection calculations. The advantage of the method is its versatility; it can be used to solve problems not only with lengthening rafters, but also with building up other roof elements. Specialized companies performed rough calculations and collected the data in a table, but it indicates only the minimum acceptable parameters.

1. Diameter and length of studs. In all cases, the diameter of the studs must be ≥ 8 mm. Thinner ones do not have sufficient strength and are not recommended to be used. Why? IN metal connections The diameter of the studs is calculated based on tensile forces. During tightening, the metal surfaces are pressed against each other so strongly that they are held in place by friction. In wooden structures, the pin works in bending. Individual boards cannot be pulled together with great force; the washers fall into the board. In addition, as the relative humidity changes, the thickness of the boards changes, thereby reducing the tightening force. Studs used for bending must have large size. The specific diameter of the stud must be determined using the formula d w = 0.25×S, where S is the thickness of the board. For example, for a board 40 mm thick, the pin diameter should be 10 mm. Although this is all quite relative, you need to keep in mind the specific loads, and they depend on many factors.

   

2. Board overlap length. This parameter should always be four times the width of the boards. If the rafter width is 30 cm, then the overlap length cannot be less than 1.2 m. We have already mentioned that specific solution accepted by the master taking into account the condition of the lumber, the angle of inclination of the rafters, the distance between them, weight roofing materials And climate zone building location. All these parameters have a great influence on the stability of the rafter system.

   

3. Stud hole spacing. It is recommended to fix the fasteners at a distance of at least seven stud diameters; the distance from the edge of the board should be at least three diameters. These are minimum values; in practice, it is recommended to increase them. But it all depends on the width of the board. By increasing the distance from the edge, you cannot reduce the distance between the rows of studs too much.

   

   

4. Number of tie rods. There are quite complex formulas, but in practice they are not used. Craftsmen install two rows of studs, taking into account the distance between them, the holes are located in checkerboard pattern.

Practical advice. To increase the bending strength of the spliced ​​rafters, the holes of the studs should not be located on the same line; they should be shifted by at least one diameter.

Butt splicing with boards

It is much more convenient to do the work on the ground; prepare a flat area. Place the bars on the ground - the rafters will have to be trimmed, you need clearance for circular saw. Before splicing, find out exactly the length of the rafters. You need to measure it on the structure, use any thin long boards, rope or construction tape. If there is an error of a few centimeters, no problem. When connecting the rafter legs on the roof, this error is eliminated without problems.

Step 1. Place one board on the bars, cut the end exactly at a right angle. It is better to cut with a hand-held electric circular saw.

Important. Follow the safety rules, this is a high-speed and very dangerous tool. Never remove the saw's factory safety features or disable electrical relays overload.

Rafter boards are quite heavy; when cutting, position them so that they do not pinch the saw blade or break prematurely during cutting. Prepare the second board in the same way. Make sure that the cut is only at a right angle. The ends of the spliced ​​boards should fit tightly to each other over the entire surface, this is necessary to increase the strength of the spliced ​​rafters. The fact is that even if the connection of the studs is loosened, the ends during bending will rest against each other along the entire length of the cut and hold the load. Studs and overhead boards will only keep the structure from creeping along its length.

Step 2. Place two prepared rafter boards side by side. Prepare a board for the overlay. We have already mentioned that its length should be approximately four times the width of the board. If the roof slopes have a slight slope, the distance between the rafters is large, and the roof will be insulated mineral wool, then the bending loads increase significantly. Accordingly, the length of the board for splicing must be increased.

Step 3. Place the overlay on two adjacent boards for the joint. Quite often, the thickness and width of boards, even from the same batch, differ by several millimeters. If this is the case, then level the boards on the side to which the sheathing will be nailed.

Practical advice. The science of strength of materials says that the thinner the material, the greater its resistance to bending along a thin plane. This means that, for example, five boards placed side by side, each 1 cm thick, can withstand a significantly greater load than one board 5 cm thick. Conclusion - for splicing it is not at all necessary to cut thick expensive materials; you can use several thin pieces of the required length. There are enough such pieces at any construction site.

Step 4. Drill holes for the studs in a checkerboard pattern and at standardized distances. To ensure that when drilling holes individual elements did not move, you need to temporarily fix them together. Use long and thin screws for these purposes; nailing is not recommended. They cut or tear the wood fibers, and the strength of the board is slightly reduced. Self-tapping screws do not cut the fibers, but push them apart; after unscrewing, the boards almost completely restore their original strength characteristics.

Step 5. Drill holes, do not place them on the same line, otherwise the boards may crack during use.

You may find recommendations to separate the boards after drilling the holes and lay jute between them to prevent the appearance of cold bridges. This is not only wasted work, but also harmful. Why? Firstly, no cold bridges arise at the splice points; on the contrary, they have the greatest thickness and, accordingly, the lowest thermal conductivity. But even if they appear, there will be no negative consequences it won’t, it’s a roof truss system, not a room window or door. Secondly, jute reduces the friction force between the splice elements, and this has a very negative effect on their strength. Thirdly, if condensation gets on the material, which is very likely, then it will take a very long time to remove moisture from it. What are the consequences of prolonged contact? wooden structures There is no need to tell about moisture.

Step 6. Insert the studs into the prepared holes, put washers on both sides and tighten firmly with nuts. It is recommended to tighten until the washers are pressed into the wood. The excess length of the studs can be cut off using a cylindrical grinder with a metal disc.

All other rafters are spliced ​​in the same way.

Overlapping splicing

This connection is easier to make, but under one condition - the total length of the two boards allows it; it must be greater than the length of the rafter leg by the amount of overlap.

If you have lumber low quality, then before starting work it is recommended to lay them out on flat surface and do an audit. For long sections of spliced ​​rafters, choose straight ones, and for segments use curves. Although for the rafter system it is strongly recommended to buy only quality materials, this is not the one architectural element buildings on which you can save.

Step 1. Select the boards and place them on top of the beams. If you wish, you can align the ends using circular saw, no desire - don’t match. The condition of the ends does not in any way affect the strength of the overlap splice.

Step 2. Lay the boards on top of each other, adjust the length of the joint and the overall size of the rafters.

Practical advice. The boards must lie strictly parallel to each other. Due to the fact that the upper one is raised above the lower one by the thickness of the material, stands made from pieces should be placed under it and the bars. The thickness of the segments should be equal to the thickness of the bottom board.

Step 3. Align the boards along one of the edges and temporarily fasten them with self-tapping screws. Drill holes, install studs, washers and tighten nuts.

Butt splicing with plywood

One of the methods of splicing rafters helps to save boards and rationally use waste of various lumber. IN in this case Cutting sheet plywood one centimeter thick is used.

Step 1. Lay the rafter boards evenly on the site, close the ends together, pay attention to the parallelism of the side edges. The boards must be extremely equal in thickness, the ends are cut exactly at right angles.

Step 2. Using a brush, generously coat the surface with PVA glue.

Step 3. Place the prepared piece of plywood at the joint and press it firmly with clamps. While fixing, make sure that the plywood does not move from its original location.

Step 4. Using long, strong self-tapping screws in a staggered pattern, screw the plywood to the boards. The length of the screws should be 1–2 times shorter than the total thickness of the boards and plywood; their ends cannot protrude from the reverse side. Be sure to place washers under the screws large diameter. Before tightening the screws, drill holes in the rafters. Their diameter should be 2–3 mm less than the diameter of the threaded part of the hardware.

Step 5. Turn the board over, place it under the ends of the stand, they should not hang in the air. Carefully remove all installed clamps one by one.

Step 6. Apply glue to the surfaces and place a second piece of plywood on them. Clamp it again with clamps.

Step 7 Tighten the screws with great force.

Important. When tightening the screws, make sure that they are not positioned against each other. The displacement must be at least three centimeters.

Step 8 Remove the clamps. To strengthen the splice assembly, tighten it with through pins. They should be placed in the same way as with conventional butt splicing.

Practical advice. The holes for the studs should be 0.5–1.0 mm smaller than the diameter of the stud. There are times when it is impossible to accurately select the diameter of a drill bit for wood. Then it is recommended to use a drill of a slightly smaller diameter, let the pin go in with a fairly large force.

During its hammering, the first few turns of the thread are crushed by strong blows of the hammer, which makes it very difficult to screw on the nut. To avoid problems, tighten the nuts before driving in the stud; now let the thread on the end jam, it is no longer needed. Before installing the rafters in place, check that the glue is dry. In good weather, it takes about 24 hours for it to completely harden.

The final touch is applying glue

Important. If, when splicing the rafters along the length of the boards, the nuts were tightened until the washer was sunk into the wood, then this cannot be done with plywood. Carefully control the pressing force, do not damage the plywood veneer.

How to correctly hammer nails into rafters when splicing

It is not always possible or necessary to splice individual rafter elements using studs; sometimes it is easier to do this with ordinary smooth nails. But you need to be able to hammer them in correctly, otherwise over time the compression force of the boards will decrease significantly. The length of the nail should be 2.5–3 cm greater than the thickness of the rafter at the junction.

How to correctly drive nails to connect loaded or critical wooden structures?

Step 1. Drive the nail into the boards at a slight angle, but not all the way. It is necessary that the tip protrudes from the back side by about one centimeter.

Step 2. On the back side of the rafter, bend the nail at a right angle with a hammer.

Step 3. Hammer the nail about one more centimeter. Bend the end again, the bend angle should now be much less than 90°. The more you bend it, the more secure the final fixation will be.

Step 4. Now you can drive the nail head all the way in. On the reverse side, bend the protruding part until the sharp end is completely inserted into the board. Remember that the point where the body of the nail exits and the point where its tip is driven in should not lie on the same line.

This technology completely eliminates the independent weakening of the pressing force.

It has already been mentioned that the bending strength of the rafters at the splice is always less than that of the whole element. If possible try to place this node as close as possible to the ridge, Mauerlat or various spacers. Such precautions minimize the risks of mechanical destruction of the rafter leg. If this possibility is not available for one reason or another, then it is not recommended to place the stop under the splice at a distance of more than 15% of the leg length from either end.

Never use black self-tapping screws for connections.. This metal has two significant shortcomings. The first is that it quickly oxidizes and loses its original strength. Secondly, the manufacturing technology of such self-tapping screws involves hardening. Hardened self-tapping screws when exceeding permissible load do not stretch, but burst. During roof operation relative humidity wooden structures change, and the thickness of the boards fluctuates accordingly. And this can significantly increase the tensile force of the self-tapping screw; it will not withstand it and will crack.

Do not overdo it with the amount of hardware. If there are too many of them, then the holes will significantly reduce the strength of the parts being connected, as a result you will get the opposite effect, the build-up will not strengthen, but weaken.

Video - Splicing rafters along the length

Types of connections of wooden structures

Typically, timber products such as beams, planks or planks come in a specific size, but construction often requires materials that are longer, wider or thicker. Therefore, to obtain the required dimensions, there are various types connections using notches, which are made manually according to markings or with special equipment.

Width connections

When joining narrow boards, boards of the required size are obtained.

There are several ways to connect.

1) Joint with a smooth reveal;
With this joining method, each strip or board is called a plot, and the seam that is formed as a result of the connection is called a fugue. The quality of jointing is indicated by the absence of gaps between the joints of the edges of adjacent plots.
2) Rail connection;
Grooves are selected along the edges of the plots and inserted into their slats, which fasten the plots together. The thickness of the slats and the width of the groove should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the board.
3) Quarter connection;
In plots that are fastened, quarters are selected along the entire length. In this case, the dimensions of the quarter, as a rule, do not exceed half the thickness of the plot.
3) Tongue and groove connection (rectangular and triangular);
This type of connection provides the plot with a groove on one side and a ridge on the other. The comb can be either rectangular or triangular, but the latter is rarely used as its strength is slightly inferior. The tongue and groove joint is quite popular and is often used by parquet manufacturers. The disadvantage of this connection is considered to be lower efficiency, since more boards are used.
4) Connection " dovetail»;

This type of fastening is a little similar to the previous one, only the comb has a trapezoidal shape. Well, hence the name.

Also, when assembling panels, dowels, tips in a groove and a comb are used with a lath glued into the end. Among the glued slats, there are triangular, rectangular and glued ones, and when using dowels, the dovetail groove is mainly chosen. All this is needed to securely fasten the shield.

Length connection

Popular types of joints along the length include: end-to-end, tongue-and-groove, tongue-and-groove, toothed adhesive joints, quarter joints, and rail joints. The toothed connection is the most popular because it has better strength.

There is also splicing, where longer sections are joined together. This can happen in several ways. For example, half-tree, oblique cut, oblique and straight overlay lock, oblique and straight tension lock and end-to-end. When choosing a half-tree splice required length connections should be 2 or 2.5 times the thickness of the timber. For greater reliability, dowels are used, for example, this can be found in the construction of cobblestone houses.

When using an oblique cut with trimming the end, the dimensions are 2.5 - 3 times the thickness of the beam and are also secured with dowels.

A connection with a straight or oblique patch lock is used in structures in which tensile forces are present. A straight rim lock is located on a support, and an oblique lock can be placed near the supports.

If you decide to use an oblique cut with an end trim, then the connection should have 2.5 or 3 times the thickness of the timber. In this case, dowels are also used.

When joining with a straight or oblique tension lock, you don’t have to worry about strength, but such a connection is difficult to manufacture, and when the wood dries out, the wedges weaken, so this joining method is not suitable for serious structures.

A butt splice is when the two ends of a beam are placed on a support and securely connected with staples.

The connection of beams or logs can be found during the construction of walls either in the upper or bottom harness V frame houses. The main types of joints include half-tree, half-foot, tenon and corner frying pan.
Half-tree cutting is cutting down or cutting off half the thickness at the ends of the beams, after which they are connected at an angle of 90 degrees.

A half-foot joint is formed by cutting inclined planes at the ends of the beams, thanks to which the beams are tightly connected. The size of the slope is determined by the formula.
Cutting with a corner frying pan is very similar to cutting half a tree, but distinctive feature is that with such a connection one of the beams loses a small part in width.

Height connection

A cross-shaped connection of beams can be found during bridge construction. With this method, you can use a half-tree connection, a third and a quarter of a tree, or notching one beam.

Building up

Building up beams and logs is the connection of elements in height, which is often used in the construction of pillars or matches.

There are several types of extensions:

1) end-to-end with a hidden tenon;
2) end-to-end with a through comb;
3) half-tree with bolt fastening;
4) half-tree with fastening with clamps;
5) half-wood with strip steel fastening;
6) an oblique cut with fastening with clamps;
7) end-to-end with overlays;
8) bolting;

The length of the joints is usually 2-3 times the thickness of the beams being connected or 2-3 times the diameter of the logs.

Tenon connection

When tenoning bars, a tenon is cut on one, and an eye or socket is made on the other. Tenon joints are often used to create joinery, doors, windows or transoms. All connections are made with glue. You can use not only one, but also two or more spikes. The more tenons, the larger the gluing area. This type of connection can be divided into corner end, corner middle and corner box.

With an angular end connection, an open through tenon (one, two or three), a tenon with a through and non-through darkening, and insert dowels are used. Corner middle connections can be found on doors. Corner middle and end joints can additionally use nails, screws, dowels or bolts.

Well, that’s probably all about connection types. This does not include connections made with nails, screws or bolts. Pure wood and a little glue. :)

What could it be easier connection wooden parts on a "mustache"? Despite the simplicity of the method, sometimes difficulties arise with the accuracy and precision of connections. In this article we will give you simple tips, by adopting which, you will achieve incredible results. Your corner joints will always be perfect!

1. Select the direction and structure of the fibers

It doesn’t matter what you are making: a photo frame or a frame for a furniture facade, make sure that the color of the wood, as well as the direction and structure of the fibers on the workpieces match. Selecting parts with similar structures takes a little time, but the result is excellent connections.

2. Fine-tune the cutting angle using sticky pieces of paper

If you've ever tried to adjust yours a few tenths of a degree, then you know how difficult it is to do so. We offer you an easy way to solve this problem: stick several sheets of note paper on the crossbar. Thus, by making test cuts and removing one sheet at a time, you will achieve the ideal cutting angle

3. Use scraps of blanks to try on parts

To accurately determine the length of the trim element, you need to try it on the panel. This is easy to do if you attach trim trim to the panel

4. Use dowels for smooth joints

It is often not easy to position the parts evenly relative to each other and clamp them in clamps, especially when the parts are lubricated with slippery glue. This is why woodworkers use dowels, even in cases where additional joint strength is not required.

5. Assemble frame structures using corner clamps

On some clamps, when assembling the frames, you need to additionally make sure that all corners are connected at 90 degrees. Using corner clamps, there is no need for additional measurements of corners and alignment of diagonals.

6. Increase the open time of your glue

It can be difficult to quickly apply glue to the joints, assemble the frames, and clamp them into the clamps without rushing or fussing before the glue begins to set (often the open time of the glue is less than 5 minutes in a warm, dry room). To increase the open time of the glue, you can slightly dilute it with water. However, do not overdo it - if there is too much water, the strength of the connection may decrease.

7. First, assemble the parts “mustache”, then profile

It is not always convenient to trim profiled workpieces - chips may appear, they are not always easy to clamp in clamps - the outer profile of the product can be damaged. Therefore, simplify your life - first assemble and glue a frame from rectangular blanks, and after the glue has dried, profile it manual router or on

8. Trust your sense of touch.

When you make a frame design, the pieces on opposite sides of the product should be the same length. To verify this, perform a simple test. Place the two pieces together and run your finger along the ends. There should be no differences. You may not notice the difference in length by eye, but you will definitely feel even the slightest discrepancy in the length of the workpieces.

9. Close unsightly cracks

If during the process of assembling products you still were unable to avoid gaps at the corners of the joints, do not despair. Simply close them by pressing the corners into the center of the joint with a blunt, smooth object. You will be surprised, but the gap will disappear, and appearance the product will not deteriorate at all. Believe me, even experienced craftsmen use this method.

10. You can change the proportions of the product in case of an error

If the last part of your binding turns out to be slightly shorter than the opposite one, you can cut it along the inside. And after assembly, cut the remaining parts along the outside. This will reduce the width of the strap slightly. If this is not for example furniture facade, then no one will notice anything

Timber products such as beams, boards or bars are usually produced in a specific size, but often during construction a material that has a greater length, width or thickness may be required. For this reason, to achieve the required size, several types of connections are used using notches made with specialized equipment or manually using markings.

Width connections

After fastening boards with a small width, a shield with the dimensions required for production is obtained. There are several methods for docking:

1)Docking on a smooth fugue;

In this joining method, each board or batten is called a plot, and the formed seam is called a fugue. Jointing can be considered high-quality only when there are no gaps between the joints of the edges of adjacent boards.

2)Rail fastening;
Grooves are selected along the edges of the plot and slats are inserted into them, fastening the boards together. The thickness of the slats and the width of the groove itself cannot exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the timber used

3) Quarter fastening;

in joined plots, quarters are selected completely along the entire length. With this method, quarters cannot exceed 50% of the thickness of the plot itself.

4) Tongue and groove type joining (rectangular and triangular);
This type of joining provides for the presence of a groove on one edge of the plot, and a ridge on the opposite edge, the shape of which can be either rectangular or triangular. However, the latter is used infrequently, due to its lower strength level. This kind of joining is quite in demand and is often used in the manufacture of parquet. Lack of fastening - lower economy due to the use of more boards

5) Dovetail fastening;
this type of joining is somewhat similar to the previous version, but only the crest here has a trapezoidal shape, similar to the tail of swallows. Hence the name of the fastening method.

Connecting boards into panels: a - into a smooth reveal, b - into a quarter, c - into a batten, d - into a groove and a rectangular ridge, e - into a groove and a triangular ridge, f - into a dovetail.

Also, in the production of wood panels, dowels, a comb with glued into the end strip and tips in the groove are often used. The slats for gluing can be rectangular or triangular. When using dowels, it is better to prefer a dovetail groove. All this is necessary for the production of high-quality wood panels.

Boards: a - with keys, 6 - with a tip in the groove and tongue, c - with a glued strip in the end, d - with a glued triangular strip, d - with a glued triangular strip.

Length connection

The most popular methods of joining along the length are: close, tongue-and-groove type, miter-type fastening, jagged type of adhesive fastening, quarter-joint, and also rail fastening. The gear type joining is most actively used, due to its extremely high level of strength.

Connection of bars along the length: a - end-to-end, b - in a groove and tongue, c - on a miter, d, e - on a toothed adhesive joint, f - in a quarter, g - on a rail.

Also, boards can be joined using the splicing method, when segments of timber are joined together in length. This is done in several ways. For example, in half a tree or with a cut of an oblique type, an overhead lock of an oblique type and a straight one, close to each other, as well as a tension lock of both a straight type and an oblique one. When splicing using the half-tree method, the required length must be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the bar. To increase the level of reliability, dowels are used. For example, similar option can be observed during the construction of log cottages.

When using an oblique cut with cutting the ends, the size should be equal to 2.5-3 times the thickness of the bar. It is also secured with dowels.

Fastening using an oblique or straight type of overhead lock is used in those structures where there is a tensile force. A direct type rim lock is placed directly on the support itself, and an oblique type lock can be placed at the support.

If you have decided to use an oblique type cut with cutting the ends, then the fastening must be 2.5-3 times the thickness of the bar. In such situations, dowels can also be used.

When fastening using an oblique or straight type tension lock, it is achieved high level strength. But at the same time, such a joining is difficult to manufacture, and the wedges become somewhat weakened as the wood dries out. For these reasons, this fastening method is not suitable for structures bearing high loads.

Splicing back-to-back involves moving both ends of the beam onto a support and then fastening it together with staples.

Splicing: a - half-tree, b - oblique cut, c - straight patch lock, d - oblique patch lock, e - straight tension lock, f - oblique tension lock, g - end-to-end.

The fastening of logs or beams can be observed during the construction of walls frame houses, in the upper or lower part of the harness. The key types of fastenings are: half-wood, corner pan, tenon type and half-foot.

Joining half a tree - direct cutting or cutting off 50% of the thickness at the edges of the bars, as well as their subsequent fastening at right angles.

A half-foot joint is formed by cutting inclined planes at the edges of the beams, resulting in a tight connection of the beams. The amount of slope must be determined using a special formula.

Cutting using a corner frying pan is extremely similar to cutting using the half-tree method, but differs from it in that when this type After fastening, one of the bars loses a little in width.

Connection of beams at an angle: a - half-tree, b - half-foot, c - tenon, d - angular.

Height connection

Cross-shaped fastening of bars is often observed during the construction of bridge structures. With this option, you can use joining in half a tree, in thirds and quarters, and also in notching only one of the bars.

Cross-shaped connection of beams: a - half a tree, b - a third of a tree, c - a quarter of a tree, d - with a notch of one beam.

The method of increasing boards or bars in height is called fastening materials in height, which is very actively used in the construction of pillars or masts.

Extension is divided into the following types:

1. Close with a hidden type spike.
2. Closely with a through-type comb.
3. Half-wood with bolted fastening.
4. Half-wood with fastening on clamps.
5. Half-wood with fastening with a steel strip.
6. An oblique cut-off with fastening on clamps.
7. Close with overlays.
8. Fastening with bolts.

The length of the joints themselves, as a rule, is equal to 2/3 of the thickness of the joined bars or 2/3 of the diameter of the logs.

Connection of logs when building up: a - end-to-end with a hidden tenon, b - end-to-end with a through ridge, c - half-tree with fastening with bolts, d - half-tree with fastening with strip steel, e - half-tree with fastening with clamps, f - oblique cut with fastening with clamps, g - end-to-end with linings and fastening with bolts.

Tenon connection

When fastening beams with tenons, a direct tenon is cut on one of them, and an eye or a socket is made on the other. Knitting beams using the tenon method is actively used in the production of joinery products such as doors, windows or transoms. Each fastening is based on glue. It is allowed to use not only one spike, but also several. How larger number spikes are planned to be made, the correspondingly larger the gluing area will be.

This type of joining is divided into: corner end type, corner middle type and corner box type.

When corner fastening of the end type is used, open through tenons (no more than three), tenons with darkness of the through and non-through type, as well as an insert dowel are used. A mid-type corner connection is quite common on doors. For corner fastenings of the middle and end type, you can additionally use screws, nails or bolts.

Angular middle connections on the tenon: a - non-through type US-1, b through US-2, c - through double US-3, d - non-through in the groove and tongue US-4, e - non-through in the groove US-5, f - non-through on round dowels US-6.

That's all the key information about the existing types of connections. This does not include connections made with nails, screws or bolts. Pure wood and a little glue. 🙂