The technology of plastering walls, which is simple at first glance, is fraught with many subtleties, without which it will never be possible to correctly and beautifully apply the plaster solution to the wall. One of the fundamental points in plastering walls is the technology of applying plaster mortar.

In the technology of applying plaster mortar, three points should be distinguished:

1. Conditions for applying the plaster mortar;
2. A tool used in plastering walls;
3. Working methods when applying plaster mortar.

Conditions that ensure correct application of the plaster mortar

Preparing the wall for plastering

1. First of all, you need to pay attention to the temperature and humidity in the room where plastering work is being carried out. For plastering works When using conventional cement-sand mortars, the normal temperature is considered to be from plus 5 to plus 30 degrees Celsius with an air humidity of no more than 60 percent. However, when using special solutions, you should follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
2. When using ready-made plaster solutions, be sure to read the instructions for their use.
3. Plastering work begins with the ceiling, then proceeds to plastering the walls.
4. Subsequent layers of plaster are applied after the previous ones have dried, but the solution in the layer is not allowed to dry out, which entails weak fixation of the upper layers.
5. The tools used must be in in perfect order, clean, without dried pieces old plaster and with normal, comfortable handles.

Tools used when applying plaster mortar

Tools required for work

• Construction trowel, large spatulas;
• falcon, can be either wooden or duralumin;
• rule;
• grater;
• grater;
• matting brush, for wetting surfaces before grouting.

Techniques for applying plaster mortar

After the plaster solution has been prepared, it can be applied to the prepared surfaces. To apply plaster on the walls, shingles, reinforcing mesh or, when plastering, must be filled brick walls, the seams between the bricks are cut to a depth of at least four millimeters, and notches are applied to the concrete and the surface is well moistened.

Since the plaster solution is applied in three special layers - spray, primer and covering, each layer has its own working methods.

Spray application

Apply the spray

This is the very first layer of plaster. The strength of the finished plaster on the surface depends on how correctly it is applied. For application, the thinnest consistency plaster solution is used. The spray layer should fill all the cells of the shingles or reinforcing mesh, so the thickness of this layer on wooden surfaces is 10 millimeters, and on brick and concrete 4-5 millimeters.

Before applying the spray, use a construction trowel to place the solution in the middle of a special board - a falcon. Since the solution for this layer is quite liquid, it is better to put less, or even better, place a galvanized basin with the solution on the scaffolding and, without adding large number mortar with the end of a trowel and throw it onto the surface with sharp movements. Since you need to throw from approximately the same distance, you will have to carry the scaffolding along with the solution. The spray does not need to be leveled; it would be even better if its surface is covered in “stalactites”; the thickest areas just need to be cleaned up.

Applying the second layer - primer

Surface primer

The primer layer is applied to the set layer of spray. To determine whether the spray layer is ready, place your open palm on it. The layer of plaster should be hard, but noticeably damp. The primer layer is applied both along the beacons installed to determine the thickness of the layer, and without them. Beacons make it possible to apply a layer as evenly as possible, but their installation itself is quite complicated, so they are rarely used.

The plaster mortar for the primer layer is prepared to be thicker, but plastic; it should not “flow” and smear well, without crumbling under the spatula. Take a falcon, put its solution in the middle and, using a wide spatula, scoop up a certain amount of solution, which with a sharp movement “from yourself” is thrown onto the spray layer. Immediately after a portion of the solution has hit the surface, it is smoothed with a spatula. The principle of applying primer is as follows: you need to apply the plaster solution in small portions, overlapping the “smeared” spot of the solution with the previous spot, and then smooth it out with a wide spatula.

Attention! The larger the spot of mortar applied to the wall, the wider the smoothing movements of the plasterer should be.

Having thus applied about a square meter of mortar, they move to the edge of the laid “spot” of plaster and begin to apply primer in another place, carefully rubbing the joints with a spatula. Having covered about six to eight meters of surface area, they take a long “rule” - a type of spatula, only about a meter wide. With this tool, if walls are being plastered, the entire area of ​​​​the applied plaster is smoothed with sharp movements “from top to bottom”.

When plastering ceilings, the movement should be “pull forward” or circular. The main thing in working with the “rule” is that the movement should be as uniform and sweeping as possible, “long”. Thus, by covering the surface of the walls “in parts” with plaster and smoothing out the joints between individual “spots” of plaster, a flat surface is achieved over the entire area. You should pay attention to possible depressions or protrusions in the plaster layer, which must be removed (leveled) in small areas. If the plaster has already been applied to the entire surface, and large uneven areas are found, then they can only be smoothed out by applying another layer after the previous one has dried, which is not very good, because the total thickness of the plaster layer will be excessively large.

Applying the finishing layer - covering

Plastering stages

This is the final layer of plaster that covers everything minor defects in the applied soil layer. The solution for it must be prepared especially carefully; it should not contain fractions larger than two millimeters. The thickness of the applied layer is also two millimeters. If the soil layer is too dry, it must be moistened with water using a matting brush. The solution is applied with a wide spatula, not by throwing it on like primer, but by pressing the edge of the spatula against the layer of applied plaster using wide, bottom-up movements. Movements in an arc are allowed, this is even more convenient.

After applying the finishing layer, the plaster layer is grouted, because it is impossible to avoid small irregularities when working with a spatula or trowel. This type of work is called grouting. It is carried out in two stages - roughing and smoothing.

Rough grout

Before grouting, the plaster layer is slightly moistened. In places where the area is small (between the door jamb and the corner) use a grater, the same grater, only smaller. The grater represents wooden die with handle or finger holes. It can be either with a wooden surface or upholstered with felt. The very first grout is done using a grater with a wooden surface. It is performed in a counterclockwise circular motion. Just be careful not to overdo it and tear off the entire layer of covering. After circular movements, take a grater with felt, it can even be moistened with water, and use sharp, straight movements to complete the final grouting. This type of grouting is called “matching”. After this they move on to smoothing.

Grouting by smoothing

Grouting the wall surface

For this work, use a grater with a strip of rubber or a metal gasket. A grater with rubber is for subsequent coating of plaster with adhesive paints, and with a metal gasket - with ordinary oil paints. Smoothing is done first with vertical movements from the ceiling to the floor, then perpendicular, that is, horizontal. No circular movements are allowed until the vertical movements over the entire surface, horizontal movements should also not be started. If the ceiling is plastered, then smoothing is carried out first along the line window openings, then across.

If all plastering techniques are carried out correctly, you will get a very smooth and beautiful surface.

Conclusion

Many ordinary people who repair in own apartments made with their own hands, information such as plastering walls is of great interest. Therefore, on our website you will find a large number of articles devoted to this topic. But in order to more fully comprehend and understand all the information provided in this article, we decided to attach a video to it that will help you see with your own eyes that the repair was carried out correctly.

And the last thing that comes up most often in questions regarding the process described above is how much does it cost to plaster walls? Note that this indicator will be influenced, firstly, by the cost of materials that are necessary for preparing the plaster mortar. There are only two of them: cement and sand; there is no point in counting water. If there is a need for reinforcing mesh, then add its cost here. Secondly, these are the prices for the plaster solutions carried out. If you carry out the repairs yourself, the process will cost you free, the costs will only be temporary. If the repairs are carried out by specialized companies, the contract will indicate both the cost of materials and the prices for the work.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Gypsum plaster is successfully used for leveling walls in apartments. With its help, you can obtain a high-quality surface, which will allow you to minimize putty work.

Important features of gypsum plaster

WITH gypsum plaster convenient to work with correct observance technology, even a beginner in plastering can handle its application. However, this material has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when working with it.

• Gypsum-based plaster hardens very quickly, so the solution must be prepared in small portions, each of which can be used in one go.
• A cured gypsum plaster solution can no longer be made usable.
• It is important to maintain a clear sequence during the process, otherwise it will not stick to the wall.
• To apply plaster in a thin layer, the solution must have a more liquid consistency; for a layer 2 cm thick, it must be thick.
• The room in which plastering work is carried out must be dry, the temperature should be from 5 to 25 degrees.

Minimum set of tools for work

For plastering work using gypsum composition you will need the following tools and materials:

• wide spatula;
• trowel;
• container for preparing the solution;
• construction mixer or drill with an attachment;
• long rule;
• lighthouses;
• smoother or sponge grater;

• dry plaster mixture;
• clean water.

Preparing the walls

Surface preparation before applying gypsum plaster solution is carried out in several stages.

• . It is especially important on which gypsum plaster will not stick. The paint can be removed using metal brush or a special attachment for a drill. If there is old plaster with defects problem areas stripped down to a hard base.
• Removing dirt and dust. It is convenient to use when cleaning walls from dust and small debris.
• . This is done to improve the adhesion of the solution to the surface and reduce the hygroscopicity of the walls. For concrete surfaces, the “Concrete-Contact” composition is suitable. For brick or block walls with increased absorbent properties, you need to select a deep penetration soil. There are also specialized primer compositions for wooden or painted substrates.

Important! To obtain a high-quality result, you need to prime not only the original surface, but also each layer of the solution after it has been applied and dried.

Plastering on beacons

The leveling method using is suitable for large surfaces and provides high quality coverings. Can be used as beacons metal profiles, sold specifically for these purposes, strings, wire or thin cables.

Installation of beacons

The beacons need to be leveled, trying to do this in such a way that the finishing layer ends up being as thin as possible. Let's consider the installation of standard beacons made of perforated profiles, secured with mortar. If you choose this installation method, follow these steps:

1. Determine the position of the beacons using a level and make markings on the walls. The outer beacons should be 20 cm from adjacent walls, the distance between intermediate beacons should be less than the length of the rule.
2. Mix a small amount of mortar and throw it in heaps along the outer marking line at a distance of 30–50 cm from each other.
3. Submerge the bar in the solution, adjusting its position according to the level. Do the same with the second outermost beacon.
4. For convenience, when placing intermediate beacons, you can use a long strip or thread stretched between the outer beacons.

It is advisable not to leave the profiles under a layer of plaster, but to remove them after the finished surface has completely dried, covering the formed grooves with fresh mortar. If the beacons are not removed, they may rust over time. Rust can come to the surface and ruin the finish. You don't have to worry about this unless tiles are laid on top of the plaster.

Application of the solution

Gypsum mortar is convenient because it can not only be thrown on, but also spread. When using beacons, it is most convenient to throw it with a trowel so that the mortar cakes can provide required thickness layer. You can apply the plaster mixture to the wall using spatulas.

Important! The layer of gypsum plaster should not exceed 1 cm. If greater thickness is required, additional layers will have to be made.

There are different techniques for applying gypsum plaster, let's look at one of them.

• Wet the wall with water.
• When throwing or laying plaster on the wall, fill with it the plane bounded by two beacons, the ceiling and the floor.
• Using the rule, distribute the solution over the area between the beacons. Move the rule from bottom to top, resting it on the beacons and moving it a little from side to side.

• Remove excess mortar from the rule with a narrow spatula and apply it to the places where voids have formed.
• After the mortar has set, walk over the surface with a rule to cut off excess plaster. You need to wait the right time so that only the top layer and the whole mass did not follow the rule. You can’t wait too long either; the approximate waiting time is half an hour.
• If there are recesses or small flaws left on the surface, you need to wait for the layer to dry, mix a new solution, apply the plaster with a spatula to problem areas and level it using the rule.
• After the applied mixture has dried, the surface is moistened and rubbed with a grater in a circular motion.
• Additional smoothing can be done using a smoothing iron, sponge grater or. You can achieve a glossy surface by moistening the surface with water a day after the plaster has dried and smoothing it with a spatula until the desired result is obtained.

High-quality applied plaster does not require puttying before

The article describes how to prepare the primer yourself and what types are sold in stores. What primer to apply on walls made of different materials.

All the subtleties and secrets of priming walls before plastering

First you need to decide whether it’s really worth spending extra time priming the surface?

We can safely say - it's worth it. The only exceptions are those cases when a temporary cosmetic repairs, for example, when renting an apartment. If you plan to produce a finish that will last at least a decade, then it is better to take care of choosing the most best primer, approaching the matter with all seriousness.

Why is priming necessary before plastering?

During private repairs, it is very important to pay attention to the primer, because it is this that ensures good adhesion of the surface to finishing material. The fact is that priming increases the adhesion of the base, creating an additional film coating. The result is noticeable already in the first stages of repair, for example, when wallpapering. Even heavy wallpaper easily adheres to the treated surface, which saves glue and speeds up work.

What primer to use

You can go to any construction supermarket for a good primer. It’s worth noting right away that it’s more profitable to take a concentrate, especially since it can be diluted 1 to 3 instead of 1 to 6, giving the walls excellent adhesion properties.

It is also better not to take a universal primer, preferring a special one designed for a specific type of surface. Some are better for wood, while others are better for metal. Then you need to choose between dry and liquid, alkyd and acrylic, mineral, although there is no fundamental difference.

It is better to pay attention to which group the primer belongs to - strengthening or adhesive. The former are excellent for porous and loose walls, since they glue the top layer of the surface, saturating the entire base. Adhesive ones are better suited for a good base and are applied immediately before applying paint, wallpapering or laying tiles.

Do I need to treat it on a plaster wall?

If plaster wall very uneven, it is better to prime it. To do this, the surface in front of the wall is covered with newspapers or film in several layers:

1. The primer is poured into a new plastic tray.
2. A brush (roller) is carefully dipped into the tray.
3. The brush (roller) is pressed against the wall of the tray so that excess primer drains from it.
4. Using careful, slow movements, apply the primer to the wall from top to bottom.
5. If the wall is of poor quality, then after the first layer has dried, the walls are primed a second time.

How to treat a chipboard wall and how to prepare it for plastering

To select a primer for a chipboard wall, you should be guided by what the room is intended for:

1. If this is an ordinary room, for example a bedroom, a hallway, then it is quite possible to prime the walls with any universal primer or a primer that is intended for wood.
2. If the room can form high humidity, for example, this is a bathroom, kitchen, then they purchase a moisture-resistant primer, to which they add a drug that protects against fungus and rot. When treating a wall, you need to take into account that chipboard intensively absorbs moisture and swells, because of this it is better to buy a deeply penetrating primer, then it will provide better protection from moisture.
3. If the wall is located outdoors, that is, on the street, then it is better to buy a primer for facade works on wood, it will maximally protect the wall from moisture penetration, sudden changes in air temperature and scorching sun rays. It’s even better if you add an antiseptic to the primer, which will prevent rot and a fire retardant compound, which will protect against fire.

Preparing old concrete walls

WITH concrete walls scrape off roughness, dirt and dust, this is done with a wide spatula, placing it at an acute angle.

For priming, it is better to use not an ordinary brush, but a wide brush. In this case, the risk of splashing the solution will be reduced to a minimum, which means you will get a good uniform layer on the wall. But applying a primer with a brush is only suitable for further wallpapering or laying tiles.

Preparation for textured painting

Before painting, the primer should only be applied with a new roller. Otherwise, the paint layer will be uneven due to the small grooves left by the bristles.

Making your own primer

There are 3 recipes for preparing primers. All of them are easy to make with your own hands.

To increase strength

1. Pour 7 liters of water into an enamel bucket or pan, place it on the stove, light the fire and wait for the water to boil.
2. Rub 1 piece laundry soap(65%) grated.
3. Pour soap into boiling water and turn the heat to low. Continuously stir the mixture with a wooden spoon.
4. After the soap has completely dissolved, pour in 500 ml of wood glue and add 100 g of copper sulfate.
5. Mix the mixture thoroughly for half an hour. It is impossible for lumps to appear.
6. Then strain the hot mixture through a sieve and cool.

This primer can be applied to walls made of concrete and brick.

To improve adhesion

It can be applied to any glossy surface, for example, on metal pipes, sheets of tin.

1. Bring 1 liter of water to a boil in an enamel bowl, place 250 g of potassium alum.
2. Pour 200 g of dry paint glue into a separate bowl and pour in 2 liters of water.
3. Place the dish with glue on the stove, light the burner, add a grated piece of laundry soap (70%), mix thoroughly.
4. Grind 2 kg of chalk to a dust state.
5. After dissolving the soap, pour in 30 ml of drying oil and 2 kg of chalk powder and mix.
6. If the primer is too thick, add water.

Deep penetration

1. Pour 1 liter of PVA glue into an enamel bowl, gradually add 8 liters of water, stirring until the mixture becomes homogeneous.
2. Add 1 trowel of cement and mix thoroughly.
3. Strain through gauze folded in 2 layers and prime the walls.
4. The prepared mixture is immediately applied to the walls.

The best primers from the store

How long can it take to plaster?

It all depends on what kind of primer you used. Thus, acrylic primer dries in 8 hours, while oil, glyphthalic or contact primer takes a much longer time to dry, about 24 hours. Mineral soil dries in different ways, it all depends on the thickness of the applied layer - from 3 hours to a day. Phenolic soil takes approximately 15 hours to dry.

Quick-drying primers are also sold; after treating them, walls can be plastered in 6-7 hours. Alkyd primer dries in 10-12 hours. And perchlorovinyl primer, when applied in 1 layer in summer in hot weather, dries in 60 minutes.

Polyvinyl acetate primer dries in half an hour.

You can treat the walls with a primer yourself. It’s better not to be lazy and spend a little extra time so as not to be disappointed with the result. Moreover, applying a primer is not so difficult; minimal skills in working with a brush or paint roller, although for large-scale work it is better to use a professional spray gun.

Useful video

Plastering walls is used quite often. The main task of such work is to level the surface and prepare it for finishing. Although today decorative plaster is often used as a complete wall covering. Read more about all its features here. And today we will try to reveal to you all the secrets of plastering walls: from preparing the solution to grouting the surface.

The most commonly used is lime-sand or cement-sand mortar.

The cement-sand mixture is prepared as follows: Portland cement (M400), fine quartz sand and lime flour are mixed in a ratio of 1 x 2 x 1 and filled with water. The volume of water is determined by calculation or test batch. Where is this solution used:

• when sealing seams in blocks on staircase and panels;
• For internal slopes when finishing drywall;
• when adding rustications at the joints of panel floors and ceilings;
• with a covering layer over the ground, if coarse sand was present in the solution.

The lime-sand mixture is prepared as follows: fine quartz sand, lime flour and ground lime in the proportion 2 x 1 x 1. The volume of water is 44% of the mass of the dry mixture (18 liters of water are used per 40 kg bag of dry mixture). After mixing, you must wait about 30 minutes for the quenching process to be completed. The solution is used:

• with ordinary wet plaster;
• Grouting the surfaces of blocks and panels.

Plastering walls begins with preparatory work

Before you start plastering, the surface must be prepared: cleaned of old materials and plaster, pollutants, plaque, etc. Otherwise new plaster may peel off. If the plaster is applied to a concrete surface, it is better to make notches first, so the material will adhere better. The wall should also be cleaned of dust and primed.

How to prevent cracking of plaster? To do this, the surface should be covered with reinforcing mesh. This will be especially useful if the wall has various kinds of cracks, marks and joints from various materials, or it is planned to apply a thick layer of plaster. The fiberglass mesh must be “drowned” in the solution, and the metal mesh must be attached with dowels (Fig. No. 1).

What else needs to be checked before applying the solution? Of course, these are vertical deviations. This is done using a rule with a level or plumb line. By the way, it is easier to plaster the surface if you use guide beacons, which are installed in the same plane (1 or 2 meters from each other) and to the thickness of the plaster solution. You also need to wet the walls with water. This is very important point, if you do not wet the walls, they will absorb all the moisture from the solution, subsequently the plaster will lose its strength and begin to fall off. Once the surface is ready, you can begin plastering the wall.

Plastering consists of three layers: spray, primer and topcoat. They are applied in two ways: by rolling and throwing. Winding is considered a simpler procedure, but is used only for soil solutions and a covering layer. While the spray is sure to be pounced on and you cannot do without some experience.

If the concrete or brick surface is smooth, then you can begin to apply a thin layer of mortar, trying to rub it as hard as possible into various roughnesses.

Spray - completely covers the surface to be treated. This type of plastering should fill all the unevenness in the wall. You need to prepare a creamy solution, take a trowel or spatula and start casting from bottom to top. In order for the plaster to adhere more firmly to the surface, this layer is not leveled. No need to make a layer too thick, optimal thickness 5 mm. If the spraying is done on wooden surface, then the thickness should not exceed 9 mm.

Soil - this layer is intended to level the surface. Before you start this species work, make sure that the first layers (spray) have hardened well. Sometimes you have to apply several of these layers to make the wall perfectly flat. Each subsequent layer must be leveled, especially the last one. The solution is applied to the surface by spreading from bottom to top, using a large trowel. By the way, it is better to use a dough-like solution. So you should be able to flat surface. Then, while the primer layer has not hardened, make notches along the entire wall with a depth of 2 mm, so that the primer layer is well bonded to the final covering.

Covering - the last layer of creamy solution (2-4 mm thickness). The same solution is used as for soil. The only thing is that it is better to use sifted sand through a sieve (cells 1.5 x 1.5 mm). Apply to carefully leveled soil. If the soil is dry, it must be moistened with water. But the best option Applying a boil is considered to be soil that has set, but has not yet dried. In this case, adhesion to the surface will be the strongest. The thickness of the solution depends on the evenness of the application of the primer. After all the applied layers have dried a little, you can start rubbing the surface. To do this you will need a wooden grater with felt upholstery. Start rubbing from top to bottom in a circular motion. Adding solution, if necessary, to possible depressions on the wall.

1. If on concrete surface the optimal thickness of the solution is 5 mm, then at brick plaster It’s better to make it thicker, about 10 mm. This is due to the fact that the seams in the masonry can be visible through a thin layer of plaster.
2. A thin layer of plaster, although more economical, is subject to destruction faster and retains heat less well.
3. If plastering occurs on low-quality tiles or bricks, where a thick layer of mortar is required, then it is better to lay a metal mesh in advance. Using wire, the mesh is tied to anchors, which, in turn, are fixed in the wall.
4. Today you can often find fiberglass mesh, which has cells of 5 x 5 mm. It is often used to reinforce various junctions of door and window openings with the wall. It prevents the plaster solution from spilling out. It is also used in the restoration of old plaster and in the installation of self-leveling floors. The mesh is laid on the freshly applied layer. Then, after pasting the corners of the walls with the stack, adjoining the wall and filling the openings, metal protective corner elements. Now you can begin applying clean exterior plaster.
5. Surfaces made of wood are rarely plastered. This is due to the emergence of new materials that allow us to move away from wet method preparation (the most expensive and labor-intensive). But if the wooden surface still needs to be plastered, then you need to know a few nuances. Firstly, the thickness of the plaster solution should not be less than 25 mm and is calculated from the base of the wall.
6. With a thick layer of plaster, additional preparation is often required, which consists of driving nails into the surface and wrapping them with wire. It is better to use soft steel wire with a thickness of several millimeters (2-3).
7. Thick layers of mortar should not be applied at once; after drying, they will crack or slide off.
8. Lime-gypsum mortar is often applied to window and door slopes layer up to 50 mm.

Plastering walls requires certain skills and experience. Therefore, it is better to practice in other, smaller areas in advance.