Ventilation in the bathhouse is mandatory structural element. Without full air exchange and fresh air flow, even the highest quality wooden building can become completely unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, steamers will have to enjoy such “delights” as dampness, bad smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of a ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. It's not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike its forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths it is generally created “on its own” - only due to a suitable design of the steam room.

How does the natural ventilation system work?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection, which occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, heated air in a room always rises, and cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in a bathhouse is to provide an influx of fresh air (cold) and displace exhaust air (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation inlet usually located below the exhaust. Then the warm air rises and comes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (low pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used as hoods in a bathhouse with natural ventilation. The flow of air is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in log baths), slightly open doors, and ventilation holes. Both supply and exhaust openings (vents, vents) are equipped with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option #1. Burst ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths, burst ventilation is common. This is ordinary ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures or between visits to the steam room. Burst ventilation promotes rapid air change and drying of steam room surfaces.

During burst ventilation, the role ventilation holes perform a door and a window located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after steaming (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure difference is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of burst ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove-heater with a chimney can become driving force ventilation. When fuel burns, exhaust air is drawn into the furnace ash pan and exits through the chimney. In order to allow fresh air to flow in, make a gap of about 5-10 mm at the bottom of the door. Or they don’t close it tightly during procedures. In log bathhouses, when the fire burns in the stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation by means of air outflow through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (for example, in black saunas or in a short-term oven), air change will not be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange performed through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the steaming period (ideally 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust vent is usually located under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It measures 15-20 cm and can be square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

• It is not advisable to place ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. There is a high probability that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This excludes full air circulation, but leads to the formation of a draft.
• The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should coincide with the dimensions of the inlet opening. Or be more. If the size of the hood deviates downward, new clean air will not enter the bathhouse.
• If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the size of the hood makes the supply vent larger. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 supply hole.

For influx clean air in the steam room, an inlet opening is installed, as a rule, 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is advisable to be near the stove so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the steaming zone already warm. The supply opening is covered with a ventilation grill so that air is drawn into the room in separate streams and not in a continuous stream.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The classic operating procedure is as follows:

1. Two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm are made in the walls of the bathhouse. It is advisable to form the vents at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
2. Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. It is better to use in chopped baths wooden boxes, made from boards.
3. A ventilation grille is placed on the supply opening, and a damper is placed on the exhaust opening. If one of the openings faces the street, with outside An insect net is installed on the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of air duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

• simple device and easy installation;
• low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
• economical operation - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
• reliability - absence mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not requiring repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

• dependence of the ventilation strength on the temperature difference in the steam room and outside;
• in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings reduces the temperature in the steam room, and drafts may occur;
• smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. IN small sauna standing on own plot, natural ventilation is the most rational solution. If there are no swimming pools or large washrooms inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If for some reason natural ventilation does not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can convert it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just install fans on the openings!

When asked what a bath should be like, any person will answer the same: hot and “light”. This is an obvious fact for everyone. Therefore, most people approach the insulation process with all responsibility, using all kinds of methods and materials to ensure maximum heat retention inside. It is not surprising that this creates the effect of a thermos.

They don’t take care of providing the second component of an excellent bath, they miss it and wonder why the “steam” didn’t work, and instead of a healing effect, the opposite result was obtained. Unfortunately, even experienced people forget about such an important point as.

But its importance should not be underestimated: during the heating of the furnace, oxygen burns, and instead of it CO2 is released, under the influence of which high chance of getting burned. Our blood becomes oversaturated with carbon monoxide, and there is a possibility of disorientation or loss of consciousness (not to mention more tragic consequences). Therefore, a system is needed that provides oxygen supply and additionally regulates temperature regime inside the steam room.

In addition to the functions of replenishing oxygen, ventilation allows you to dry the structure, reducing negative impact excess moisture and steam, which can lead to the appearance of mold or rot on structures, as well as an unpleasant odor or musty feeling. Lack of exhaust hood can destroy wood in just 2-3 seasons.

A ventilation device is required in any bathhouse, not only brick and block; wooden ones are no less demanding when it comes to drying. An exception may be bathhouses with slots, but here they can no longer be called bathhouses: they will not retain heat.

REFERENCE. Particularly noteworthy is the possibility of using natural ventilation, which does not require the use of expensive materials and equipment (however, you shouldn’t leave gaps on purpose either). We will tell you how to organize this process in this article. Let's not ignore the forced supply and exhaust system.

Ventilation in a steam room: why is it necessary?

Above, we have already talked about the dangers of a closed environment from the point of view of exposure to carbon monoxide, and also mentioned the need to create a microclimate for drying the steam room after use. Ventilation in a bathhouse or steam room will definitely increase the comfort of staying there and extend the life of the building.

A distinctive feature of the Russian bath is wet steam. At the same time, the temperature regime also differs, which is lower than that of a sauna. However, warm air saturated with moisture warms up the human body much faster and has a softer and more gentle effect (it does not have a spasmodic effect on blood vessels, it can be visited by elderly people and children).

The design of the furnace is quite specific: as a rule, the stones are placed inside and can be accessed by opening the door. This ensures that the stones retain heat for a longer period of time and are more difficult to fill, even with inappropriate water consumption.

Ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath. The most important thing is to maintain balance, because the steam has a “shock” character, escaping from the stove immediately after water is splashed on the heater. If it is not designed correctly, you can lose all the steam.

In Russian steam rooms, vents are most often used, which are installed in the lower part of the walls and ensure the safety of the heat that accumulates near the ceiling.

Ventilation in the steam room: requirements

When designing ventilation in a steam room, the requirements for it are simple. The following rules must be adhered to:

1. coolness should be near the floor, and heat near the ceiling;
2. even temperature level, without fluctuations;
3. “exhaust” air must be replaced with fresh, oxygen-enriched air.

Ventilation in the steam room: device

It is based on the laws of physics: the influx of fresh air below displaces hot air from above through the corresponding openings, thereby ensuring air exchange. In this case, a vacuum of air occurs (the pressure decreases), and cool air is drawn in. It, in turn, gradually heats up, rushes upward, and further along the cycle. This is how ventilation works in a steam room; its design is quite simple. More .

Natural or forced?

In order to answer the question: natural or forced ventilation for a steam room, you should look at each type.

Natural the microclimate is formed independently in the presence of planned vents (openings) or cracks when the air convection processes described above are started in the building.

The advantages include: low cost of implementation, absence of extraneous noise/vibration from operating devices and use natural features. Possible difficulties: errors in the placement of holes, as a result: lack of draft (the opposite - the appearance of excessive drafts); penetration of foreign (most likely unpleasant) odors from the street.

Forced ventilation system uses equipment and materials that create artificial air movement in the required direction. Regulated by special control units. This is a very expensive solution that requires competent design and further implementation. When placed correctly, it guarantees smooth circulation air flow.

There are combined types for a bath: steam room ventilation, which combines both of these directions and has the pros and cons of each option.

If you decide to do ventilation yourself, it’s better to stick to natural ventilation – it is more in line with the spirit of the bathhouse than the use of intricate devices. However, we do not dissuade you from using forced supply and exhaust ventilation.

Ventilation in the steam room of the bath: diagram

Ventilation in the steam room of a bathhouse - system diagram. It consists of two openings: one of which is supply, and the other is exhaust (several exits can be made). When choosing the size of the exhaust opening, you must follow several rules:

1. the largest should be at the maximum distance from the stove(so that the heat does not go outside in a direct flow);
2. the rest can be placed around the perimeter of the ceiling;
3. The hole size is calculated based on 24 square meters. cm for each cubic meter premises. Most often, the diameter does not exceed 30 cm, but the number is 2 or more.

The traction force is determined by the height difference between the supply and exhaust openings.

IMPORTANT! Do not place the holes exactly opposite each other, this will inevitably cause drafts.

Ventilation in a Russian steam bath: diagram

Ventilation in the Russian steam bath is ensured by a scheme in which there are vents with adjustable plugs, taking into account the above rules. Or by using burst ventilation, which we will discuss later.

Bathhouse: steam room ventilation (if the stove is in the dressing room or rest room)

For a bathhouse or steam room ventilation, where the stove is located in a room other than the steam room, you will most likely have to think about forced ventilation, which will ensure the flow moves in the right direction.

As shown in the diagram:

Bathhouse: ventilation of the steam room (if the stove is in the steam room or the steam room is connected to the washing room)

It is ensured by heating cold air coming from outside from the furnace and repelling it from the heat source, and returning it back after hitting the walls. Air movement can be stimulated by the use of additional fans.

For bathhouses and steam room ventilation, organizing the drying of the bathhouse is especially important, since the water in the washing room can have a truly destructive effect on finishing materials and floor. In addition to the main one, enhanced floor ventilation is required: by installing an exhaust opening between the finished and subfloor, the installation can be accompanied by the installation of a fan.

REFERENCE. Make sure that no water comes into contact with the fan to avoid the risk of a short circuit.

More than 10 different schemes bath ventilation.

Where to place supply and exhaust openings

There are several simple rules for where to place supply and exhaust openings:

1. the supply air (from which freshness comes) should be located below, closer to the floor;
2. exhaust - placed away from the stove, closer to the ceiling.

At the same time It is advisable to locate the inlet opening near the stove so that during the cold season the air warms up a little before entering the steam room.

The height at which the holes are placed is about 30 centimeters: from the floor or ceiling.

It will be effective installation of supply valves in the foundation (under the floor). Using a valve system or installing an additional protective grille on the opening will protect you from possible penetration of rodents. In this case, it is better to lay the floor with small gaps for more free access of oxygen. If you want a smooth and even floor, then you can get by with special ventilation windows, which can be covered with decorative wooden grilles.

IMPORTANT! When placing the valve on the foundation, it is necessary to ensure that fresh air is taken from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise unpleasant odors will come along with the air.

Common layouts include:

• for baths with a constantly running oven: the inlet opposite the stove is 30 centimeters from the floor, and the firebox vent will act as an exhaust hood;
• for baths With pouring floors : the inlet hole is 30 cm from the floor behind the firebox, and the “working off” leaves after cooling through the cracks in the floor;
• location of both holes on the same wall: opposite the stove, but one is near the floor and the other is near the ceiling. A fan is installed at the outlet. Justified where the wall with holes faces the street.
• hole location at the same height, but on opposite walls(do not put it in one line!), the fan is installed in the same way. It is considered not very effective, since the heat will almost immediately escape outside, and the room will dry out faster due to the open door.

Ventilation of walls in a steam frame bath

Frame wall pie. More about insulation frame walls look .

This is done by leaving a ventilated gap between the finishing materials and the vapor barrier, which can reach 5 cm. Ventilation of walls in a steam room frame bath provided with a counter-lattice. Corrugations ventilation system should be designed in advance to place the insulation, taking into account the space for the pipes.

What should not be used when ventilating in a steam room?

Avoid using plastic elements:

1. corrugation;
2. boxes;
3. stubs

This is something that cannot be used when ventilating in a steam room - they cannot withstand high temperatures and will melt, releasing harmful substances and acquiring an unaesthetic appearance.

But their use in the wash room or dressing room is not prohibited.

Only wood can be used as plugs for vents or hatches: metal can burn from heat or rust when exposed to moisture.

Economical solution: burst ventilation in a Russian steam bath

If you are not sure that you can correctly calculate the size of the entrances (exits) or their location, you can use a long-tested method - an economical solution: burst ventilation in a Russian steam bath.

The essence of its application is to quickly ventilate by opening windows and doors wide. They are opened for a short time (no more than 1-2 minutes); for maximum effect, it is best to use the opposite window and door.

This method does not require any financial costs: you use the elements that are in any bathhouse.

IMPORTANT! Do not overdo it with ventilation, you can make the bath too cold. This method is especially good for Russian baths, which are heated in black.

Is it necessary to hire specialists for calculations and design?

If you need a proper, “light” and trouble-free bath, ventilation in the steam room plays a role important role: from the durability of the bath to your own safety.

If the bathhouse is combined with the house, has a rest room or dressing room into which the stove is installed, or there are other reasons for using forced exhaust, then the answer to the question “is it necessary to hire specialists for calculations and design” will be clear: it is necessary.

Otherwise, you can make a mistake in a minor detail, and the purchased calculation equipment will not be suitable for this reason. And this in turn will cause additional expenses.

In addition, in order not to disturb the structure of the building, It is better to design the ventilation of the steam room in advance, before the sauna is built, this is especially true for situations where the air flow inlet must be located on the foundation. Installing a ventilation system in an already constructed building is a troublesome and time-consuming process. It will be necessary to disassemble almost all finishing materials, make room for corrugations, etc.

During construction brick bath without preliminary preparation and cannot be done at all, because not only wooden finishing materials are required, but also wall material - brick, which (some types, for example, silicate) is prone to absorption large quantity water.

Conclusion

Ventilation and renewal of the internal climate are necessary in any case - this is the final conclusion; this is necessary, among other things, to ensure comfort when using the bathhouse. The choice of natural or forced is yours. We hope that, taking into account our material, you will be able to find the most suitable solution for yourself.

For completeness, check out: and.

Article in sections:

Setting up a sauna is a very interesting, but troublesome process. You need to take into account a hundred little things to make it not only cozy, but also safe for health. The latter also depends on air exchange - improperly arranged ventilation in a sauna can create a draft or, conversely, lead to excessive high heat premises!

The steam room is a key place for ventilation

The most important room of any sauna or bathhouse is, of course, the steam room. And in the steam room high temperature largely depends on ventilation, and not only it, but also the quality of rest. What is the use of hot air if it is stagnant and saturated with the smell of dampness and sweat products?

In addition, we must not forget that any steam room is a place with high humidity, and therefore an increased danger for all elements (especially wooden ones) to become a breeding ground for mold and mildew. And what kind of sauna can do without electrics these days? Even at a minimum electrical equipment you need to install a banal light, make a switch - that’s the risk of getting an electric shock when high humidity!

To avoid having to constantly think about high humidity, it is better to think once about high-quality ventilation. Thinking, of course, will not be enough - you also need to implement the plan correctly! Since our school days, we all know that hot air has one distinct feature - it always tends to rise upward, pushing cold air downward. Thanks to this, the natural circulation of air in the atmosphere on a global scale and in each room in particular is ensured. Applicable to the steam room, thanks to this law of physics, we get the hottest places on the upper shelves and relatively cool ones on the lower ones.

According to generally accepted standards, the air in the steam room must be renewed at least three times per hour, the optimal recommendations are all seven times! Such air exchange can be ensured using conventional supply and exhaust ventilation - hot air, rising to the ceiling, exits through the outflow vent, as a result of which a slight vacuum is created in the inflow air duct, and fresh air enters the room. This system is applicable to toilets, but, unlike them, it has its own characteristics.

But the task is complicated by the fact that the hottest steam, which is located on the upper level of the steam room, should not immediately escape into the hood, otherwise you will be left in a cold sauna, which urgently needs to be heated. If this happens, it means that the hood is not installed correctly! Sometimes this is due to the impossibility of correct arrangement of elements due to architectural features buildings, in this case it is necessary to consider ventilation options combined with mechanical means.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the sauna - arrangement diagram

First, let's look at the classics - natural supply and exhaust ventilation. This type of traction law is correct location supply and outlet openings. The correct one is when the inlet hole is located near the stove-heater or under it (if we are talking about electric version), while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Also, cold fresh air will penetrate into the steam room through a specially left 5-7 cm gap under the door.

The supply openings should be located strictly at the bottom so that the cold air can have time to heat up before it enters the area where people are staying.

For proper air circulation, one exhaust hole will not be enough. On the opposite side of the inflow, the first hood is located at a height of about a meter, the second - under the ceiling. Both holes must be connected exhaust duct, which is discharged either into the main ventilation system or into the chimney. If the air duct runs separately, then you need to remember that the higher the pipe rises above the roof level, the more draft there will be in the system - it is important not to overdo it!

So that you can regulate the intensity of air exchange, it is imperative to install shutters on the air vents. How does such a system work? Let's imagine a standard steam room with a heater on the far wall and a door on the nearest one. As expected, a gap is left under the door, and the hoods are located on opposite walls: near the stove and at the door.

Before heating the steam room, it must be properly ventilated so that there is fresh air in the room. The doors and outlets are then closed, leaving only the inlet valve open. The steam room will heat up quickly enough, since the hot air will soon have no place to go out, which means there will be no vacuum in the air inlet.

When the sauna has warmed up, we still leave the upper channel closed, while we open the lower channel slightly - thanks to this, air circulation in the steam room will begin, while the upper layers of the heated air will not leave the room. Cold air will again begin to enter through the supply channel, but thanks to the proximity of the heater to the resting people, it will enter already warmed up, gradually rising upward and replacing the stagnant air.

Thanks to this air exchange, the room will have fresh and warm air. Vacationers may not even notice such a change, enjoying the process. This system ensures economical handling of already heated air, which means you will also save on coolant consumption. In addition, problems with mold and mildew will not affect you - thanks to such circulation, all elements will be properly dried.

Combined system - when there are no other options

The structural features do not always allow us to provide ventilation strictly according to the scheme described above. For example, a steam room has three adjacent walls with other rooms, and the entrance and exit holes have to be placed on one wall. In this case, the correct location must be observed: the supply opening should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, while the outlet should be located at the same distance, only from the ceiling.

Cold air currents entering the room will pass through the stove, heat up and rise upward, refreshing and warming the room. The disadvantage of this method is that the air circulation is too intense, which must be strictly regulated using valves on the holes.

There is also an option in which the inlet opening is located not below, under the stove, but above the heater. If the outlet channel is located at a higher level on the opposite wall, we will get relatively normal movement of air masses. True, it may not be enough, so in such cases a fan is placed in the outlet to circulate air. This will be combined ventilation.

Classic mistakes - what not to do

The most common mistake when arranging supply and exhaust ventilation is the location of the ventilation holes at the same level. As a result, we get a draft below, and the hot air at the upper levels will practically not take part in the air exchange.

If you make only one hole for the air outlet under the ceiling, even with the correct placement of the entrance and exit, the mixing of hot and cold air flows will be too fast - the steam room can cool down in a few minutes! Typically, the top hole is used only in cases where you want to quickly reduce the temperature or completely ventilate the room.

The positive effects of regular bath procedures on the body are invaluable. At the same time, a bathhouse is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits are easily outweighed by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no efficient ventilation.

Importance of the system

Even in ancient times, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in a bathhouse could quickly cause the appearance of dampness, mold, and fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why, even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they helped improve air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Nowadays, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, since after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constantly high humidity, and if the bathhouse is built according to frame technology, then its service life will be even shorter. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable when the stove is lit. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous to life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development dangerous diseases bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in a bathhouse must necessarily comply with basic requirements and safety principles:

• Correct redistribution of air masses. As you know from a school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush upward, while cold ones, on the contrary, descend. Therefore, the flow should be directed so that the feet do not freeze and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
• Maintaining a given heating level in the steam room. Ventilation under no circumstances should interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, cooling the air is unacceptable.
• Use of water-resistant materials. To arrange steam rooms and organize ventilation in them, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to humidity and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating effective system air exchange is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot humid air from all parts of the bathhouse, but at the same time it is necessary to prevent the temperature in the hot steam room from dropping, therefore modern systems, as a rule, they use the installation of hoods that prevent cold air from blowing in from the street. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas ovens, since such circuits require a large volume of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How does this work?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of ventilation and complete drying of all functional zones, as well as walls, floors, the attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roofing and the materials used to make it. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally installed, which allows for ventilation between the layer of thermal insulation material and the other layers of the roofing cake. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensation in the bathhouse.

But for the best drying of floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is installed. Such options should be considered at the planning stage. construction work. To do this, lay a subfloor and pour concrete at an angle, then lay the boards in such a way that there are small gaps between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all rooms of the bathhouse need ventilation: steam room, sink, relaxation room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, you should select in advance a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bathhouse and its operating conditions.

Experienced builders do not advise constructing complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods, which may be suitable for each individual case. Here the statement is 100% true that the simpler the better, and in terms of cost this option will be much cheaper.

The operating principle of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the entry of fresh street air, and the second allows the overheated and humid air to escape outside. How these windows are located in relation to each other largely determines which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the firebox will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths, instead of a single outlet, two are cut out, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

The dimensions of the windows are also of fundamental importance, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the lumen. To do this, special valves are attached to them, allowing you to cover any open cracks.

It is very important to produce correct calculations windows taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, the steam room simply will not be able to warm up to the required temperature and more electricity will have to be spent. And if the windows turn out to be too small, then the intensity of the flow will be reduced and the air may become completely oversaturated with water vapor.

The size and location of ventilation windows primarily affects the entry and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from an overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Species

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room to 50 years and even more. The ventilation system option is selected individually in each case and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All ventilation options developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and combined.

Natural ventilation assumes that air change is carried out due to the unhindered entry of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of paired rooms and the removal of waste through special openings.

Forced The system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed for exhaust and much less often - for supply. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

Combined option as the name suggests, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, the most widespread is “bastu”. It involves the formation of a small hole with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind the stove or under it.

As additional elements, vents are installed above the stove, which are controlled using a gate valve and a valve - it is through them that outside air enters through vents from the underground. Typically, the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, but as soon as there is a need to reduce the humidity level in the bathhouse, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is not suitable in every case, so in some situations, installing an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the lower part of the duct. If you install it in the supply opening behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist, superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. On the outside of the building, such openings are connected to each other by a special ventilation duct. Less commonly, an exhaust hood is installed in bathhouses, in which there is only one channel for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are installed at the same height from the floor level: one is located behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation forced ventilation.

The most unsuccessful method involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, bumps into the feet of those steaming. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such arrangement also occurs quite often when it is not technically possible to make holes on different sides of the room.

Materials

The choice of ventilation system for a bathhouse is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bathhouse is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bathhouse has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be treated especially carefully to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must include a fan, which will help effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bathhouse can be connected to elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are installed directly in the walls, and later they are brought to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of buildings using the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of thermal insulation layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with flaps.

In bathhouses built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to individual characteristics materials are installed in galvanized air ducts. To do this, they buy ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, having previously given them the necessary configuration and reliably sealed the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in Russian classical log sauna. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all rooms of the bathhouse, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem of creating optimal proportions between the air coming from outside and the air going out into the street often arises. To prevent the occurrence of drafts and not “heat the street”, experts recommend additionally well insulating the bathhouse and equipping it inside thermal insulation material small holes with special valves that serve for flow in and out.

In wooden buildings, a burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings do not initially provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately understand how many steamers will take bath procedures. If a bathhouse is being built for a small family, then you can simply design a small supply vent near the stove and an exhaust vent under the ceiling, but if the structure is aimed at a large company, then preference should be given to forced options.

How to make it yourself?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. You can carry it out in a bathhouse either on your own or with the assistance of specialists. To do this, you will need a work project, materials and tools, as well as a little effort and time.

What will you need?

For installation ventilation ducts The bath requires preparation. The following components will be needed for this work:

• several ventilation valves;
• valve;
• metal grill;
• mosquito net;
• ventilation box;
• corrugated air duct;
• hygrometer;
• fan;

• thermometer;
• metallized tape;
• clamp;
• polyurethane foam;
• sealant;
• fasteners;
• decorative overlays for lining inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely available in any store in a wide variety of colors and textures, so purchase best option won't be any problem. Ventilation valves are installed on exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Valves are used to quickly open or close holes. They are made from the most various materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and strength of fixation they are in no way inferior to store-bought options.

A grid with a mesh, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier against insects and rodents, whose presence is extremely undesirable either at home or in the bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box is usually secured with external wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid on top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some people make the box themselves using corrugated pipes. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for steam rooms, since under the influence of high temperatures most types of plastic begin to deform.

The fan in the steam room is used both for the supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it works only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially produced for Finnish saunas and baths. A thermometer and a hygrometer are used to make the use of the bathhouse as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its operating indicators, open the supply valve or start the hood.

Layout for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some nuances installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bathhouse; it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. Sami adjustable windows recorded only after completion of work on decorative finishing complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, but if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust opening with a diameter lower than that of the supply opening is strictly prohibited, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

The system must certainly have dampers and valves, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow the openings to be closed with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable dampers are also important because air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the time of year. In winter, when outside the window prevail negative temperatures, cold air masses penetrate more intensively into the bathhouse, which is why in the autumn-winter period the windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the entry of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, its size cross section calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conventionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are carried out with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too ventilated or vice versa.

Even at the bathhouse design stage, you should remember that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required heating areas. The hood openings should be located slightly below the ceiling level. This is due to the fact that warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed outside, and if the holes are located low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the overall microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since constant contact with water wooden surfaces after 3-5 years they lose their performance characteristics, therefore There are important requirements for a ventilated floor:

• to create the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
• the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter between the boards;
• the finishing floor must be laid above the level of the blower, which helps the stove begin to work as an additional hood;
• After taking bath procedures, you should leave the front door completely open until the floor dries.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to arrange ventilation here, since in such a room there is no direct contact with water. As a rule, a combined or natural way ventilation, when cool air enters inside through the supply channel and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the influence of a fan.

In addition, installation of ventilators is allowed here, which may require connecting to an electrical network and going outside.. Regarding washing room, then they usually build here forced ventilation, and air exchange here occurs with the help of an electric motor.

We organize an exhaust hood in an already built bathhouse

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation natural traction. Depending on how the bathhouse was heated - black or white - it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct vaping, so for ventilation they were used open windows and doors. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid out at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip a hood in an already constructed building.

To do this, you should punch holes directly in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is made in the area of ​​the furnace vent, and the second one is made near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bathhouse is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then creating openings and installing an exhaust hood will be much more problematic, since in the process of such work the integrity of the walls can be damaged in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bathhouse as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not do your own ventilation in bathhouses that are already in use. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, read the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that basic principles creating an effective ventilation system largely depends on the dimensions of the bathhouse and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be met regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for the influx, the second for the removal of air masses. If you plan the exhaust in advance in a bathhouse under construction, you can avoid serious problems during the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam zone.

It is absolutely unacceptable for installed ventilation to create the following problems:

Many novice developers very often ask the question: Is ventilation needed in the bathhouse? Why let cold air in if so much effort and materials went into insulating it? On the one hand, this is a paradox, but on the other hand, it is a necessity, and in order to understand this issue, you need to weigh all the pros and cons (if any) of installing ventilation in the steam room.

What are the dangers of lack of ventilation in a bathhouse?

In ancient times, when they knew absolutely nothing about ventilation, in Rus' bathhouses, like houses, were made without ventilation holes. But there is an explanation for this. As building material logs were used. The lower crown of the logs was made free, which made it possible to fresh air, through the cracks of the log house. We regulated the temperature in the steam room by opening front door. Here you have the simplest, but no less effective ventilation of the bathhouse, which was used by our ancestors.

IN modern construction They use completely different materials, and the approach to the construction of buildings is somewhat different. But if you don’t think about installing a ventilation system during the construction of the bathhouse, then the consequences of this will not keep you waiting, namely:

• Rapid wear and tear of the materials used for lining and insulating the bathhouse. Without proper ventilation baths, after a few years of operation, the owner will have to change not only the lining, but also the floor, and, quite possibly, the insulation. Temperature changes and moisture, which is an inevitable companion of a steam room, are a destructive force that destroys materials in 3-5 years.
• The appearance of an unpleasant odor. This will inevitably happen in a steam room without ventilation, since dampness and warmth are an excellent microclimate for the appearance of mold and fungi. It is almost impossible to get rid of the smell of mold and mustiness in such a room, since using chemicals in the bathhouse is strictly prohibited. This is not only harmful, but also deadly.
• Poisoned air in the steam room. First of all, without proper air exchange, the level of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide in the steam room can sharply increase. Probably, there is no need to tell anyone what will happen to a person if the concentration of carbon monoxide increases by at least 0.1%. On top of this is the high temperature of the air in the steam room, which is filled with evaporated sweat from your body. Well, in general, there can be no question of any health-improving effect in such an atmosphere.

The above arguments are enough to understand the axiom: ventilation in the steam room of a bathhouse is not just necessary, but vital.

What should be the ventilation in the bathhouse?

As a rule, steam room ventilation is limited to two to three ventilation holes of the required cross-section. One is for supply air, and the rest are for removing “exhaust” air. It must be taken into account that for comfortable well-being, the air circulation in such a room must be at least 5 times. This means that the entire volume of air in the steam room must change five times in 1 hour. There are several nuances that are required for the installation of any ventilation scheme.

• You need to think about the location and size of the ventilation holes in the bathhouse at the stage of its construction, since it will be very difficult to make holes in the finished steam room.
• The dimensions of the supply and exhaust vents must match. In some cases, the dimensions of the hood may be larger than the inflow.
• Ventilation openings must be equipped with valves. This will allow you to regulate the intensity of air circulation, and when heating the steam room, you can close them completely to raise the temperature more quickly.
• A very important parameter is the cross-section of the ventilation vents. It is important to know that their cross-section depends entirely on the volume of the steam room. There should be 24 cm2 of ventilation per 1 m3 of volume.

Installation of a ventilation system in a bathhouse

We have already talked a lot about what kind of ventilation there is. The same laws apply for a bathhouse, and ventilation in it can be:

• Natural. With this type of ventilation, the circulation of air masses is created due to the difference in temperature and pressure between the air flow and the exhaust hood. Good air circulation can only be achieved correct installation ventilation openings: supply at the bottom and exhaust at the top of the room. As is known from school courses According to physics, hot air rises up and cold air goes down, so such a ventilation device in a bathhouse will not be very convenient from the point of view of warming it up.
• Combined. This ventilation method assumes the presence of one natural ventilation hole and one vent with a fan installed in it. The inflow will be mechanized or exhaust - it all depends on the scheme you choose.
• Mechanical. Such a ventilation system independently controls the flow of air masses and their exhaust, temperature and humidity, using automation. From the point of view of comfort, it comes first, but prices - such a system is practically not used in baths due to the complexity of installation, and the high cost of equipment, design and maintenance.

Examples of ready-made ventilation schemes

There are several working ventilation schemes in the bathhouse, which ensure good air circulation, despite the fact that the steam room does not get cold.

1. The supply opening should be located at floor level, behind the stove, and the exhaust openings should be located near the ceiling, but on the opposite wall from the supply. Thanks to this arrangement, the incoming, colder air will enter the steam room and be immediately heated by the heater. After which it rises to the ceiling, goes around it and lowers slightly to exit into the exhaust vent.
2. If your stove works constantly during bath procedures, you can use this option, where the inlet hole is located 30 cm from the floor, on the opposite side from the stove, and the vent and chimney will act as a hood.
3. If your bathhouse has ventilated floors, then you can make an inflow behind the stove, at a height of 20-30 cm from the floor. Cold air will enter the steam room, be heated by the stove and rise upward. Cooler masses will sink, pass through floor vents and be discharged outside the room.

Here are several options for the location of inlet and outlet using an exhaust fan.

1. The supply opening is located 30 cm from the floor - behind the stove, and the hood is located on the opposite wall, 20 cm from the floor. One caveat: a fan is installed in the hood, which will create air circulation.
2. The inlet and exhaust vents are located on the same wall, but only one is at the top and the other is at the bottom. The supply unit, located 30 cm from the floor, is equipped exhaust fan given power.
3. The inlet is installed behind the stove, at a height of 30 cm from the floor and is equipped with a fan. The exhaust hole is made on the opposite wall 20 cm from the floor. The blown air is heated by the stove and evenly heats the entire steam room. After which, it cools down and goes down, where it exits through the hood.

Important!
To calculate the fan power, you need to multiply the volume of the steam room by the air circulation rate. Example: A steam room is 2 m by 3 m. Its area is 6 m2. Ceiling height 2 m. Total: 6 x 2 = 12 m3. Now we multiply 12 m3 by the recommended air circulation rate of 5 and get 60 m3/hour fan performance for our steam room.

The most common mistakes when arranging ventilation in a bathhouse

One of the most common mistakes made by those who decide to do the ventilation of a bathhouse with their own hands is the location of the supply and exhaust vents at the same level. There will be no benefit from such an arrangement, other than a draft. If you used this arrangement of ventilation holes, then the inflow should be located behind the stove and equipped with a fan, and the outlet should be at the same level, but on the opposite wall.

Another mistake novice builders make is that many try to seal the bathhouse as much as possible from air getting into it, make small windows and forget about arranging floor ventilation. Yes, such a steam room will heat up very quickly, but it will be impossible to take health procedures in it.

In fact, there are many shortcomings, and it is simply impossible to count them all, but, observing certain rules, you can build the bathhouse of your dreams with your own hands, without additional costs for correcting mistakes.