July is a busy time for winegrowers, because this month there is increased growth of berries, and there is not much time left before harvest. During this period, grape bushes especially need feeding, thanks to which the clusters will become larger and juicier.

Why do you need to fertilize grapes in July?

The deficiency of nutrients that plants usually receive from the soil must be compensated by fertilizing. In mid-summer, when the foundation of the future harvest is being formed, this is especially important. Shortage minerals manifests itself in weak growth of bushes, berries grow small, contain little sugar, and yield remains low. In addition, with a deficiency of nutrients, the plant becomes defenseless against diseases and pests.

July fertilizing should be done after the bushes bloom, but before the berries ripen.

The use of complex fertilizers and organic matter during this period, especially bird droppings and mullein, is contraindicated due to the high concentration of active nitrogen contained in them, which, instead of the growth of grape bunches, will increase the formation of green mass and delay the ripening of berries.

Before each fertilizing, you need to water the bushes abundantly, so the fertilizers are absorbed into the soil faster.

What to feed grapes in July

If the vineyard is located on an area with depleted or initially poor soil, then young plants, along with old bushes, experience an acute shortage of substances useful for growth, such as potassium and phosphorus, due to which the sugar content of the berries increases and their ripening accelerates. Therefore, in the first 3 weeks of July, it is necessary to organize fertilizing of grapes with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, with the addition of microelements - boron, cobalt, magnesium, manganese, copper, sulfur, zinc. The listed microelements affect the level of sugar content, improve the absorption of phosphates, stimulate the growth of ovaries, increase plant immunity and plant productivity.

Thanks to July fertilizing, the foundation for a high-quality harvest is laid.

This work must begin immediately after the bushes flower and before the fruits ripen, when the berries do not exceed the size of a pea. The maximum effect is observed with the simultaneous use of root and foliar fertilizers.

When growing grapes, it is important to pay attention not only to young bushes, but also to adult plants. It is they who completely deplete the soil over several seasons, and therefore are in dire need of additional fertilizing. Therefore, unlike young plants, which are fully provided with nutrients from the soil in the planting hole, adult bushes must begin to be fed 2 years after planting.

Root feeding

At the beginning of July, it is recommended to fertilize the area where the vineyard is located with an aqueous solution of ash: dissolve 100–200 g of ash in a 10-liter bucket of water and leave to infuse for 2–3 days. The resulting ash solution is enough to water 1 square meter. m of vineyard. The prepared composition is poured into pre-dug trenches 35–40 cm deep, 0.5–0.6 m from the main vine, and then covered with earth.

Before you start using ash, you need to consider that this fertilizer is contraindicated for vineyards located on alkaline soil.

Ash contains a balanced complex of substances, and the effect of its use lasts at least 2 years

A good feeding would be the following composition: 20 g of any potassium fertilizer that does not contain chlorine, since grapes do not tolerate it well, for example, potassium sulfate or potassium salt, and dissolve the same amount of superphosphate in 10 liters of water.

After applying nutritious fertilizer, the area should be watered warm water, at least 3-4 buckets of water per bush, and be sure to mulch with a 5 cm thick layer of straw or sawdust. Thanks to these actions, fungal diseases are prevented, and the berries will become sweeter.

By using drainage pipes ensures rapid supply of fertilizers to the root system of grapes

If you use drainage system feeding grapes, it will not matter on what land and climatic zone there is a vineyard. Even without fertile soil, you can grow large clusters on a sandy or rocky area. The main thing is timely and correct feeding.

During the next two decades of July, it is necessary to completely eliminate nitrogen fertilizing. If this is not done, the growth of the vine will be delayed, and, as a result, the harvest will take a long time to ripen.

In the last ten days of July, when the size of the berries is equal to peas, you need to apply liquid organic fertilizer, for example, a solution of chicken manure, under the grape bushes. To prepare it you will need:

1. Dilute a bucket of chicken manure in 3 liters of water.
2. Infuse the solution for 7 days.
3. After a week, dilute 1 liter of concentrate in 10 liters of water. A correctly prepared solution resembles the color of weakly brewed tea, but if it turns out to be a more saturated color, you need to add more water.
4. Apply the resulting fertilizer completely to the root of one bush.

Chicken manure is a valuable organic fertilizer that improves soil fertility

In order for the fertilizer to be better absorbed into the soil, you need to dig trenches 25–30 cm deep between the grape bushes at a distance of 50–60 cm from the main vine, and pour the prepared fertilizer into them, and then bury them with earth. A solution of chicken manure is used as a top dressing in July only once, and the result of its use will be noticeable after 2 weeks.

Video: root feeding of grapes in July

Foliar feeding

A good effect is achieved by foliar, or, in other words, foliar feeding grapes For foliar feeding, only liquid products are used, which are poured into a sprayer. The sprayer needs to irrigate only the lower surface of the leaves, where the stomata are located, and through them the beneficial substances enter the plant cells. If you don’t have a sprayer, you can wipe the leaves with a cloth soaked in a nutrient solution.

It will take very little time to prepare foliar fertilizing:

• Dissolve 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water. Spray the leaves of the vineyard with the prepared solution.
• Dissolve 1 liter in 1 thousand liters of water liquid humate potassium, the resulting solution is enough to treat a vineyard with an area of ​​1 hectare.

Thanks to potassium humate, nitrates and other harmful substances from berries, and also increases the plant’s immunity to diseases.

The drug Agroverm has excellent characteristics, containing potassium humate, 18 amino acids and microelements necessary for grapes. Its use increases the yield and quality of berries.

Fertilizers applied to leaves are quickly absorbed and give excellent results.

Another foliar feeding contains a rich composition of microelements that dissolve in 10 liters of water:

• drug Novosil - 1 tsp;
• drug Kemira-Lux - 15–20 g;
• Potassium humate - 1 tbsp. l;
• boric acid- 1/2 tbsp. l;
• baking soda - 60–70 g;
• iodine - 1/2 tsp;
• manganese - on the tip of the knife.

An important condition for foliar feeding is dry and windless weather after sunset or a cloudy day. This method of fertilizing is especially effective in cases where the fastest possible delivery of nutrients is required to weakened plants, which will completely absorb them in a matter of minutes.

To enhance the effect of foliar feeding, it is necessary to select a sprayer with a fine spray that produces small drops.

At the end of July, you can use ash-based foliar feeding: dissolve in 10 liters of water liter jar ash, 3 tbsp. l. granulated sugar, 1 g of boron and 1.5 g of copper.

The sugar content of grapes will increase after feeding with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, which is used as an addition to root feeding. To prepare it you will need to do the following:

1. Dilute 300 g of superphosphate in 3 liters of warm water.
2. Filter the mixture and leave to infuse until it clears.
3. Drain the water from the mixture and mix the grounds with 300 g of ash.
4. Dilute the resulting mass with 10 liters of water and leave to infuse until the solution brightens. All fertilizer received should be used on the day of preparation and should not be stored.

For foliar feeding of grapes, the preparations Aquarin, Novofert, Plantafol are also recommended. It is in July that potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are especially effective, as they are 100% and quickly absorbed by bushes.

How to grow grapes - Feeding calendar to help you (tips from winegrowers)

It would seem that it is enough to feed the grape bushes several times a season with complex fertilizers, and the plants will come to life again. However, in grapes, the need for different nutrients varies depending on the phase of the growing season. And if you want to succeed in viticulture, you should definitely understand how certain microelements affect grapes, at what time they are especially needed by plants, and how they should be added to the soil.

Nutrients needed by grapes:

• Nitrogen. Responsible for the growth of green mass (leaves and shoots), therefore the bulk of nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, at the very beginning of the grape growing season. In summer, the need for nitrogen decreases, but from August, nitrogen fertilizers become harmful to grape bushes, since untimely rapid growth of greenery will prevent the ripening of wood. Added in the form of urea or ammonium nitrate.
• Phosphorus. The vineyard needs it most at the very beginning of flowering: thanks to phosphorus fertilizing (superphosphate), inflorescences develop better, berries set and grapes ripen.
• Potassium. Closer to autumn, it is very useful to feed the vineyard with potassium chloride, as it accelerates ripening grape vines and fruits, and also prepares plants well for winter.
• Copper. Helps increase frost and drought resistance of shoots, enhances their growth.
• Bor. Adding boric acid to the soil helps increase the sugar content of grapes and speed up their ripening. In addition, boron stimulates pollen germination.
• Zinc. Thanks to this microelement, grape yields significantly increase.

Calcium, magnesium, sulfur and iron are also useful for grapes, but these elements are usually found in sufficient quantities in the soil. It is not necessary to additionally feed the vineyard with them.

Mineral fertilizers and organic matter - how to fertilize grapes?

You can feed grapes with one-component mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, potassium salt, potassium chloride, superphosphate, etc.), fertilizers containing two or three elements (nitrophoska, ammophos), or complex ones (Kemira, Florovit, Rastvorin, Novofert, Aquarin).

But only one mineral fertilizers will not be enough: grapes need manure to fully utilize the incoming nutrients. The addition of manure improves the aeration and water permeability of the soil, and also stimulates the development in the soil of microorganisms that grape roots need for the best absorption of microelements. In addition, rotted manure provides the vineyard with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other useful substances.

Instead of manure, you can use compost as an effective and affordable remedy for any gardener. Food waste, tops, grass clippings, sawdust, bird droppings and pet manure, wood ash, chopped branches and other organic waste are suitable for preparing compost. Ready compost is rich in useful substances no less than manure.

Another valuable organic fertilizer is bird droppings. It also contains the most important elements for grapes in a highly digestible form. A week and a half before use, bird droppings are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4, and before direct application to the ground, an infusion is made, diluting with water another 10 times. Half a liter of infusion is consumed per grape bush.

Well, instead of potassium chloride, which can harm the vineyard due to its high chlorine content, it is better to use ash. It will provide the grape bushes with a supply of not only potassium, but also phosphorus. The most useful is the ash from sunflower husks.

Fertilizing grapes - timing and methods of application

To feed root system grapes, you should dig grooves about 40 cm deep around each bush at a distance of at least 50 cm from the trunk. Through such grooves, the main roots of plants absorb nutrients much more efficiently, especially if you combine fertilizing with watering the grapes.

When to apply fertilizer:

• in the spring, before opening the bushes after wintering, superphosphate (20 g), ammonium nitrate (10 g) and potassium salt (5 g) are dissolved in 10 liters of water - this portion is enough to water one grape bush;
• a couple of weeks before the grapes begin to bloom, they are fed with the same aqueous solution;
• Before the grapes ripen, the soil in the vineyard is fertilized with superphosphate and potash fertilizers(no nitrogen is added);
• After harvesting the fruits, the grapes are fed with potassium fertilizers to increase the winter hardiness of the plants.

During spring feeding, you can use slurry instead of mineral fertilizers: for one square meter 1 kg of solution is consumed per planting.

Once every three years in the autumn months, the vineyard should be fertilized with manure with the addition of ash, superphosphate and ammonium sulfate. Fertilizer is distributed over the surface of the earth, after which deep digging is done. If on a plot of soil of sandy loam type, it is worth applying fertilizers for digging every year, then on sandy soil - annually.

Foliar feeding of grapes for a better harvest

Through grape leaves, beneficial substances dissolved in water are remarkably absorbed. Therefore, in addition to the usual root fertilizing, it is advisable to also apply foliar fertilizing - along the leaves. This will help the plants develop better, produce maximum yield and tolerate winter frosts well.

Regardless of the fertilization of the root system, the grape foliage is sprayed for the first time with a solution of microelements before the flowers appear to prevent their shedding and to increase the ovaries, the second time - after flowering, the third time - when the grapes ripen. During the last two sprayings, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded from the feeding composition.

For foliar feeding, you can use solutions of micro- or macrofertilizers, which are easily found on sale in large assortment. An aqueous infusion of ash mixed with fermented herbal infusion from forbs.

Foliage should be sprayed on windless days in the morning or evening, or during the daytime in cloudy weather, so that the plants do not get sunburned, since the solution remains on the leaves in the form of small droplets. For better absorption of microelements, you can add 3 tablespoons to the nutrient solution. Sahara.

Donetsk resident Vladimir Norkin embeds ammonium nitrate into the soil: “Feeding must be combined with loosening!”

It will streamline work in the garden, minimizing the cost of time, effort and money.

Fruit trees

If the garden is not irrigated, then it will be quite enough autumn feeding organic matter and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Early spring add 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m. After the ovaries fall off, nitrogen fertilizing is repeated, increasing the dose to 20-25 g. Regular watering washes out mobile nitrogen from the soil, adding two or three more fertilizing during the growth period.

1. In April, during bud break: sprinkle 10-15 g of urea or 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate per square meter trunk circle limited by the diameter of the crown, close it with a rake.

It is good to feed with bird droppings (1:20) - 2 liters for each square meter of the trunk circle, or with a solution of slurry (1:5) - 5 buckets are enough for a 7-year-old tree.

2. In early or mid-May, before flowering: similar feeding.

You can fertilize the garden leaf by leaf with a 1-3% solution of urea or ammonium nitrate (10-30 g per 10 liters of water), as well as stimulants - Epin or Zircon.

3. Immediately after flowering: spraying with Bud, Ovary or Plantafol.

4. In mid-June, after discarding the excess ovary: repeat fertilizing with urea or scatter 10 g of ammonium nitrate per square, embedding it into the soil. If the harvest is high, after 20 days, fertilize again, but with nitrophoska (25-30 g per sq. m) or nitroammophoska (20-50 g per sq. m.), with the addition of potassium chloride or sulfate (10 g per sq. m. ).

You can use foliar feeding - leaf spraying (20-30 g of urea per 10 liters of water) or root feeding with mullein infusion (1:4). Before applying to the soil, add 10-15 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of solution, the application rate is a bucket of fertilizer per linear meter.

5. In July - fertilizing trees with little growth or heavy harvest load: per 10 liters of water - 25-30 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt. Salt can be replaced 100-150 g wood ash.

In mid-July, nitrogen is removed from the trees’ “diet,” otherwise the growth of shoots will continue and they will not have time to ripen by winter.

6. In September - mid-October, before digging: give phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for all trees from four years of age - 25-35 g of superphosphate, 18-25 g of potassium chloride or potassium sulfate per square meter. For autumn digging of the trunk circle, humus can be added once every three years - half a bucket per 1 square meter. m area. This mixture also works - half a bucket of humus or compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 35 g of potassium sulfate per 1 square meter. m.

To prevent the fertilizer from being washed away, drill 6-12 holes, 35-40 cm deep, around the perimeter of the crown, apply replenishment, fill it well with water and cover it with soil. Such “targeted delivery” will force the roots to go deeper in search of food and prevent them from freezing in the future.

Instead of chemistry

Slurry. Fill the barrel halfway with manure, sprinkling each 20-centimeter layer with ash, fill it with water and leave for 10 days, stirring occasionally. Before use, dilute 1:10 to avoid burning the roots.

Mullein. Fill the barrel with fresh manure to 1/3 or 1/4 of the volume, fill it to the top with water, stir and let it brew for 10 days.

« Green tea"for plants. Fill the barrel 1/3 full with weeds, add water to the top and let it ferment. And that’s it - the universal fertilizer is ready, all that remains is to dilute it 1:5 for root watering or 1:10 for foliar treatment.

Ash. Mix 100 g of fertilizer with 10 liters of water. Speed ​​is important here: the solution must be poured immediately under the root, otherwise phosphorus will precipitate and become inaccessible to plants. Mixing ash with mullein infusion will also end in failure: nitrogen will evaporate from the fertilizer.

Vineyard

Up to four years, the seedling does not need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (a refill is enough landing pit). Therefore, young growth should be fed in the spring with solutions of slurry or droppings, ammonium nitrate (10 g per 10 l of water), urea (5-6 g per 10 l of water) half - 1 bucket per plant (depending on age). An adult vineyard needs basic autumn fertilizer with humus every three years (9-10 kg for each square of plantings).

1. In early spring: if you did not have time to feed the plants with organic matter, add 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 80-100 g of ash and 100-120 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. m. m.

2. May 5-15 (before flowering): based on 1 sq. m - 40 g of bird droppings, 40 g of ash, dilute in a bucket of water, water at the root. And also - 10 g of potassium salt, 25 g of superphosphate and 15 g of ammonium nitrate for each bush.

5. Autumn fertilizer: once every three years: 9-10 kg of manure or humus or a mixture of 5 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate, 100 g of ash and 50 g of ammonium sulfate (dose per 1 sq. m).

Once every two to three years, the soil is limed, adding up to 150 g of lime for each bush. In autumn it is buried by 20-25 cm, and when applied in spring - no more than 5-7 cm.

Yagodniki

Shrubs are responsive to the application of fertilizers: currants “love” phosphorus, and gooseberries “prefer” potassium. To ensure a balanced diet, choose foliar feeding with microelements in the flowering and green ovary phase (Plantafol, Mortar, Clean Leaf fertilizer). This will increase plant resistance to fungal diseases.

1. Early spring one-time application of nitrogen: 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate or 15-20 g of urea per 1 sq. m embed into the soil.

2. In the first half of June (in years with a large harvest): repeat fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. You can feed them with solutions of mullein or dung.

3. In the fall, for digging: once every three years, humus is added at a rate of 6-8 kg per 1 sq. m. m, annually on currants - 20-25 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium salt or nitrate per 1 sq. m. m, for gooseberries - 15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium fertilizers (preferably potassium sulfate). Work and complex fertilizers- nitroammophoska or ammophoska (15-20 g per 1 sq. m). You can also add ash during digging - 2-3 cups per bush.

“Give plants a boost to grow!”

Director of the Agrosazhenets nursery (Golubivka village, Artyomovsky district), Roman Tonu, considers humus to be the best fertilizer.

If you haven’t managed to bring it in since the fall, it’s not too late! - the specialist encourages. - A bucket per square meter of tree trunk circle is quite enough. They can simply mulch the soil with rain nutrients will definitely get to the roots. Humus can be replaced with compost, ideal for spring application, or peat. Fertilizing with wood ash is also effective - two to three glasses for each square. But you need to be careful with mineral fertilizers: they oversaturate the soil solution, complicating absorption and converting nutrients into a form inaccessible to plants. Therefore, when feeding with ammonium nitrate or nitroammophos main principle- “Do no harm!” It is better to underfeed the plants. The optimal ratio is 12-15 g of fertilizer per square meter.

Remember that nitrogen compounds acidify the soil, so if you are used to fertilizing a lot and often, they must be combined with lime (70-80 g for every 100 g of fertilizing).

Donetsk resident Lyudmila Pashkovskaya is partial to grapes: there are already 16 varieties on her plot, and the collection is constantly growing. Now she advises not to relax and watch the plants to prevent the appearance of mites.

Fruitful shoots should be shortened, leaving areas with five leaves - this will direct the plant’s energy to ripen the berries. Moreover, this number of leaves is quite enough to “feed” the bunch. Some of my varieties suffered from frost, then from heat - this was the reason for the peas. From such brushes you need to remove small underdeveloped berries by carefully plucking them with tweezers.

I advise beginning winegrowers to buy complex-resistant varieties so as not to waste energy on the endless struggle for survival of those that have good taste, but are defenseless against pests and low temperatures. For example, from pink varieties I have Victoria and Pink Flamingo growing up.

The first, despite the amazing taste and good yield, turned out to be very vulnerable to ticks. Kesha is not very resistant to pests either. Of those varieties that are able to withstand the problem, I would recommend Laura, Codryanka, Moldova - I have had them for several years now. I also love the Captor - very reliable, frost-resistant. It does not need to be covered for the winter and sprayed; it is practically not affected by ticks.

How to defeat a tick

Contacts to the editor about grapes literally eaten by mites have become more frequent. To help cope with this scourge, we turned for advice to Alexander Andreichenko, agronomist of the private enterprise “Leader” (TM “Green World”):

It is easier to overcome a pest at the initial stage of its development than to wait for it to multiply in incredible quantities. To do this, I offer you two options for mixtures:

1. Confidor (1 g) + Apollo (4 ml) per 10 liters of water.

2. Actellik (20 ml) per 8-10 liters of water. The consumption of the working solution is from 2 to 5 liters per plant (depending on the size, leaf surface area and pest infestation). The frequency of treatments is two to three times every two weeks.

It is important that the soil for growing and during the ripening period is rich in nutrients. If fertilizers are not applied in a timely manner, the yield will deteriorate every year. Plants will begin to suffer from frost and drought, as well as from lack of necessary components. The use of fertilizing compounds is an integral component normal height.

For normal growth and harvesting of good bunches of grapes in August, it is necessary to periodically apply mixtures that contain:

Nitrogen is necessary for the normal growth of green mass. Leaves and shoots cannot develop normally without this element. In summer, the need for such an element decreases. Since August, such actions can even cause harm, so you should not use them at this time. Feeding grapes in August should be different from spring. It's important to remember this.

Fertilizer for grapes should also contain phosphorus. It is needed in the initial flowering period so that the plant can bear fruit well. Thanks to the addition of this element (superphosphate), the inflorescences will develop much better.

When answering the question of how to fertilize grapes, one cannot help but mention potassium and copper. The first component is needed to accelerate ripening and growth. Copper improves frost resistance. An additional element should be zinc. It is important that it is also included in the fertilizer for young grapes. This will significantly increase fruiting.

Boron or boric acid increases the sugar content of fruits. This element also allows you to prepare the plant for the winter.

Mineral fertilizers (one-component) – best choice. Ammonium nitrate, potassium chloride, superphosphate - all this is necessary for the plant. Many inexperienced gardeners ask: how to fertilize grapes and what to feed them with? It is important to use mixtures that contain two or three elements (ammophos, nitrophoska). The use of complex drugs is acceptable and recommended. “Aquarin”, “Novofert”, “Kemira”, “Floravit” are recognized as some of the best. Fertilizing grapes with such compounds will allow you to get good harvest subsequently.

It is extremely important to correctly determine the composition that is suitable for feeding the plant in a given season.

During this period, the main task of the gardener is to saturate the soil with microelements. Use the medications described above. They will ensure good fruiting later. A mixture of sulfate and other growth components in the vineyards during this period will contribute to a good harvest.

Fertilizing should be done in mid-May.

Remember that such a plant needs to be fed in spring and summer. Outside root feeding grapes in July is a guarantee of rapid growth and ripening.

Please note that during the ripening of berries, different feeding is required than during the growth period. During growth, it is very important to apply manure to improve soil permeability and stimulate the development of necessary microorganisms.

Feeding grapes in June is suitable if the plants are characterized by low growth or, conversely, too much harvest load. To do this, mix potassium salt, superphosphate and saltpeter, then dilute with water. Nitrogen should not be used, otherwise the fruits will take too long to fill with juice.

What to do with grapes in July? Bird droppings are another fertilizer that should be applied at this time. It is worth feeding grapes in the summer using manure. Why is it important to feed grapes in summer? Because at this time it needs to saturate the soil with useful microelements.

Before feeding, you need to dilute the droppings with water in a ratio of 1:4. Then dilute with water immediately before watering. It is also permissible to fertilize grapes with ash to further saturate the soil. Grape ash is an inexpensive and simple method for proper cultivation plants.

Feeding grapes in the fall is also important stage. An ideal choice will become a vine that should be prepared in advance. It is recommended to add zinc, iodine, boron, and manganese to the fertilizer mixture. This mixture can be applied either dry or as a water-based solution.

Don't use too much large number such mixtures. It is important to add them at regular intervals in small portions. In this case, you will ensure normal growth and maturation.

It is important to follow a number of rules that will ensure you a good harvest. Saturate the soil useful elements described above. A couple of weeks before flowering, feed the plants with a solution of superphosphate, nitrate and potassium salt with water. Before ripening, add superphosphate. Potassium fertilizers for grapes are also suitable.

Remember that once every three years it is necessary to treat the plant (root system) with manure and vines, as well as ammonium sulfate and superphosphate. If you grow in sandy loam soil, such additives must be applied every two years. For normal growth on sandy soil, this must be done every year.

From this video you will learn about the best way to feed grapes in the summer.

We have already talked about grapes, or more precisely, about pruning the plant, but this is far from the only method of caring for a beautiful shrub with sweet fruits. Let's continue the conversation and try to take a closer look at ways to increase the yield, proper care of the crop, and also consider a special vineyard calendar created by specialists.

From early spring to late autumn, grapes develop, fill with juices, throw out clusters of berries and ripen to bring us pleasure and enjoyment of the taste of wonderful fruits. But it also happens that tasty and high-quality grapes grow in poor conditions, without care, correct pruning, watering, fertilizer and insulation on winter period. To achieve a good and juicy harvest, you need to follow hundreds of rules, which are simply impossible to remember at once. That is why we will gradually remind you of how to properly care for the crop. To begin with, I would like to consider the year-round care calendar, which was compiled by specialists.

Grape care schedule

January

Prepare in advance all the necessary fertilizers for grapes: wood ash, compost, humus, as well as mineral fertilizers – “Novofert”, “Master” and others. Do not forget that in the spring it will be necessary to treat the plant with remedies for diseases and pests. During this period the condition should be checked: if they are too dry, moisten them a little; if they are too wet, open them slightly and ventilate. If the weather in January is warm, you can prune uncovered varieties, and in cold weather, cover the already insulated vineyard with snow.

February

You can begin preparing for the warm season: clean the arches and tensions from the old vine, prepare tools and fertilizers, remember the shortcomings of last year and make every effort to avoid them again. In indoor conditions, you can start growing seedlings and check planting material in storage.

March

During this period, you should finish pruning uncovered varieties to avoid excessive sap flow. Start selecting new seedlings for planting, determine their location on your site. Such places should be carefully prepared.

April

Covering varieties should only be opened at the beginning of the month unless frost is expected. This applies only to shelters on loams and black soils: bushes covered with pine needles, sawdust or peat are opened until the eyes swell. Now you can add organic matter to the planting sites, carry out water-recharging watering of the grapes and apply liquid fertilizers. You should also spray with agents against pests and diseases (it can be very weak against them). Processing should be carried out at a temperature not lower than +4–5 °C. In the second half of the month, when the temperature rises, you can garter. Sleeves should be tied obliquely, young shoots should be tied horizontally. At the same moment, you can begin to plant the stronger seedlings in the ground.

May

The beginning of May is the period when it is necessary to start green work. The first cutting of excess grape shoots is carried out immediately after bud break. Unnecessary buds should be removed from perennial parts of the grape bush, extra doubles and tees on fruit shoots, leaving only the most developed ones. The next cutting is carried out when the shoots reach a height of 15 cm, the third - when the shoots grow to 35–40 cm. Also in May, you need to remove all excess above-ground growth that has formed from the rhizome and begin with fungicides. If last year was “clean” from diseases and they are not expected now, you can skip the treatment.

Gradually continue tying up the shoots as they grow, transfer the shoots to the wire of the arch higher and higher, make even garters along the wire. Do not forget to remove stepsons on the shoots. 10 days before flowering, you can carry out another liquid feeding. During flowering, remove the top (2nd, 3rd, 4th) inflorescences to regulate the load on the grape bush.

Towards the end of May, weaker seedlings, green vegetative plants, can be planted in the ground in holes that have been prepared and fertilized in advance. At this stage, perhaps, we can finish spring care for grapes and move on to summer ones.

June

You can continue planting young and insufficiently mature seedlings. It is also necessary to pinch out the buds on vigorous shoots - this will give a certain bonus during pollination. Before flowering, it is necessary to fertilize with elements that enhance flowering and budding; complex mineral elements can be used. At this time, it is better to treat the grape bushes again with fungicides, since damage during the flowering period is the most dangerous. Continue gartering, pinching, and after flowering, apply foliar feeding. Try to remove extra bunches in order to normalize the harvest; extra bunches are not worth sparing at all. At the moment when the berries grow to the size of a cherry pit, spray with the following fungicides - “Topaz” and “Ridomil Gold”.

July

From the very beginning of the month, it is important to begin protecting the bushes from fungal diseases. For this purpose, systemic medications are used (in rainy weather - 2 times a month). An effective remedy“Flint” may perform. While filling the berries, the grapes should be fed special drugs containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, For the best effect, apply foliar feeding with Novofert or Aquarin.

Don’t forget about feeding young seedlings that have recently been planted in open ground. Caring for young grapes is also important. For this process you will need mineral fertilizers (25 g per 10 liters of water). Pay attention to the growth of the grapes, tie them up and remove the shoots. At the end of the month, early varieties may begin to ripen.

August

Remember: Caring for grapes in the summer is very important, so try to follow all the rules, because the fruits are ripening right now and there is every chance of getting a good harvest.

At the beginning of the month, not forgetting about the constant green operations of gartering and removing stepchildren, feed the grapes with mineral fertilizers, and the newly growing, young grapes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Do not use nitrogen in either the first or second case. Now you can still water if you see that the plant needs moisture, but it must be stopped in the second half of August. If ripening is weak, you can again add fertilizing to the soil - Plantafol or potassium monophosphate. Also treat the grapes against pests and diseases, use “Quadris” (a drug that copes quite well with oidium and mildew). At this time, the time comes for the early varieties to ripen.

September

In September, the same work is carried out on medium-ripening grape varieties as on early-ripening grape varieties in August. Do not forget to regulate the overload of bushes by cutting off excess bunches(first of all, all the nutrients that enter the bush should go towards ripening the fruits and ripening the vine). Repeat phosphorus-potassium fertilizing. If diseases appear, treat the grapes with the drugs mentioned earlier.

October

The harvest is being completed. Immediately after this, if the bushes are affected by pests and diseases, they are again treated with drugs. IN given time Strong seedlings from the school are planted in the ground; they are now taking root well. Young bushes should be covered with pine needles or peat. After harvesting, the necessary cuttings are cut from old bushes, and the covering vine is placed in an inclined state in the grooves. Excess vines, residual plant material, are dried and burned. Use this material cannot be composted to avoid possible infection. The soil between the rows is dug up. If the last months have been dry, watering should be done (40–60 liters of water for each bush).

November

Autumn care for grapes, it is no less important than the summer season. During this period, you should thoroughly prepare for the winter, so as not to lose fruit-bearing bushes and young, rooted cuttings planted during the current season. Now you need to finish the work of pruning the covering varieties. Also, before the soil freezes, you should properly cover the bushes. For this, vines, pine needles, sawdust, peat, and soil are used that were previously bent and placed in grooves. Do not forget to do moisture-replenishing watering - without moisture, grapes do not winter well. Now that the covering work is completed and the vineyard is ready for winter, you can start cleaning and cleaning the arch, repairing and updating the tools.

December

In December, all grape care consists of the same basic criteria as in January: preparing fertilizers for the season, purchasing drugs and supplies, preparing the planting site, adjusting humidity, and so on.

According to experts, if you follow this calendar, try to fertilize and trim on time, closely monitor the growth of seedlings and generally provide proper care for the grapes, the harvest from each bush will be significant.

How to care for grapes: bush formation (video)

How to properly water a vineyard

Grapes are one of those plants for which a special watering schedule has been drawn up, that is, you cannot water the plant whenever you want if you want to get a harvest from a strong and “living” bush. For example, in industrial vineyards, watering is carried out up to nine times per season with an interval of 15 days between waterings. In home vineyards, watering should be carried out only at peak demand.

First watering carried out immediately after dry garter, it is recommended to combine it with fertilizing the soil with ammonium nitrate. At this point, the soil has not yet warmed up, and the plants may experience nitrogen starvation.

Second watering carried out after pruning, within 5–7 days.

Third watering It is advisable to carry out at the moment when the shoots grow to 25–30 cm. During the growth period, moisture is necessary. Feeding won't hurt either.

Fourth watering required before flowering (not at the beginning and not during flowering), otherwise without moisture the clusters will be sparse. Along with watering, we add microelements, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, zinc salts and mag-boron.

Fifth watering occurs at a time when the berries of the clusters reach the size of a pea - due to timely watering, the berries will grow.

Sixth– softening of berries. Lack of moisture during this period can lead to a long delay in crop ripening. We feed the grapes with infusion of ash, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Seventh- after harvest. This irrigation requires the addition of superphosphate.

Subsequent Watering is carried out only if the last months have been dry.

It is necessary to observe not only the watering schedule, but also its correctness. On sandy soils the procedure is carried out more often, but in small portions; on clay soils - abundantly, but less frequently. It is also necessary to remember the specifics of watering: you cannot pour water under the bush itself, especially if young grapes are being irrigated. Water pours into a groove that should be made around the bush, the distance from the bush is 30–45 cm, the depth is up to 20 cm. It is not recommended to water the vineyard by completely flooding the growing area - as a result, the air conditions may worsen. Too frequent watering is also not recommended: it washes out all the nutrients from the soil and causes the root system to rot, as a result of which the bush may die.

Fertilizer and feeding

Fertilizers are a very important component proper care for grapes of any variety, after all, without the right fertilizing, the vine will not be able to grow and gain juices, the color will be weak and begin to fall off, and the berries will no longer form normally and will be small and few in number. Therefore, in order to ensure a stable and timely harvest, attention should be paid to the application the right fertilizers within the required time frame. These can be organic fertilizers - compost, manure, green fertilizers, as well as individual mineral fertilizers. Even before planting the seedlings, the soil must be well seasoned with all the beneficial substances that the plant will need for growth and fruiting.

How to feed young grapes

If young plants are placed in rich soil, they will only need feeding for the first few years. Liquid fertilizers are most suitable. This can be slurry or with water (1:3), ammonium nitrate (10 g per 10 l of water), urea (5–6 g per 10 l of water). The slurry must first be infused (for 10–15 days), then the solution is diluted approximately 5 times and applied in portions of 1 bucket per 1 plant for each bush. To improve the penetration of fertilizers into the soil, small holes or holes are made around the bush.

How to fertilize fruit-bearing grapes

The soil under the grapes is fertilized every three years(9–10 kg per square meter of planting). Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers can be used simultaneously with organic matter. In this case, it is better to apply manure in the fall, and compost in the spring. If the soil has been fertilized with organic matter since the fall, mineral fertilizers are not used in the spring. If not, then in the spring you need to add 50 g of ammonium nitrate, 80–100 g of wood ash and 100–120 g of superphosphate per square meter. It is best to apply fertilizer before the plants are opened.

IN summer period grapes are fed after they have bloomed and at the beginning of fruit ripening. Add 10 g of potassium salt, 25 g of superphosphate and 15 g of ammonium nitrate for each bush. At the beginning of ripening, saltpeter is not used. It would be best to add such fertilizers into special recesses made with a crowbar.

Grapes: planting and care (video)

To provide the soil with calcium, you need to add lime (up to 150 g) under each bush. If lime is added to the soil in the fall, then it should be deepened by 20–25 cm, but if in the spring, then by no more than 5–7 cm.

Do I need to apply fertilizers to get an environmentally friendly harvest? Feeding grapes in questions and answers.

Grape feeding. Battery value

Many people, especially those who are not involved in the cultivation of fruit, vegetable and field crops, have the belief that if they do not apply fertilizers, then the resulting harvest will be environmentally friendly. No, unfortunately, this is not the case. The explanation for this lies in the physiology of the plant. This cannot be said in a few words. But there is a wonderful clear example influence of nutrients on the quantity and quality of the crop - Dobeneck barrel (Fig. 1).

Fig.1. Daubenek barrel

Imagine that each stave of a barrel is a certain element of plant nutrition - nitrogen, potassium, carbon, etc. (a significant part of the periodic table). The length of the stave varies; it is determined by the amount of a specific nutrient required to form the crop. Tell me how much water (harvest) can be poured into such a barrel? The answer is simple, exactly as much as the shortest riveting allows. It turns out that longer rivets will not be able to increase the amount of water in the barrel. Those. they cannot compensate for the shortest riveting. The same thing happens in the plant.

We need to understand something else. The lack of one nutrient will lead not only to a shortage of crops, but also to a sharp decrease in the quality of the crop. All nitrogen in a plant is predominantly in nitrate form; in order for this nitrogen to be included in the composition of sugars, acids, and vitamins, various enzymes and catalysts are needed, which are (or are part of) sodium, boron, zinc, iron and other trace elements. It turns out that if there is little zinc or boron in the soil, for example, then there will not be enough of them in the plant for the normal functioning of the body, which will lead to a decrease in the synthesis of sugars (for example) and will increase the nitrate content in the plant, since it will be impossible to process them. But excess phosphorus or calcium in the soil will not help.

There is no way to do without the use of mineral fertilizers. To understand this, consider the balance of nutrients in the soil.

Grape feeding. Battery consumption:

– Absorption of the main crop (in our case, grapes), takes into account all the absorption of nutrients not only for the formation of the crop, but also for the growth of leaves, stems, roots, etc., the so-called biological removal. The nutrients are removed along with the berries, leaves and cut vines or remain in the plant - the form of tissue of perennial parts of the bush. Very little of what is absorbed will return back to the soil.

– Absorption of nutrients by weeds that are weeded out and removed from the site.

– Washing of nutrients (such as nitrogen, potassium, etc.) with rain and irrigation water. This is inevitable and natural for any soil.

– Some of the nutrients become inaccessible to the plant, phosphorus is especially guilty of this. This nutritional element seems to be in the soil, but in such a form (chemical form) that it is inaccessible to the plant.

– The soil microflora (and the more fertile the soil, the more microorganisms) consumes a large amount of nutrients. Bacteria and other microorganisms seriously compete with the plant for nutrients.

– Some other factors (erosion, blowing) that take place, but in Belarus of great importance don't have.

Grape feeding. Supply of batteries:

– Organic fertilizers.

– Plant remains. But since we remove the bulk of foliage and weeds, the income is small.

By and large, these are all the main “income items” of the soil. You can, of course, add an article - photosynthesis, but it concerns carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, but they are absorbed from the air, mainly. And the main elements of mineral nutrition - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - come only from the soil. In nature, all plant remains remain in place and, rotting, give life to new plants. But the natural process of increasing fertility occurs over decades, or even centuries. We won't be able to wait that long.

Therefore, in order for the harvests to be regular, annual and abundant, it is necessary to add to the soil every year those nutrients that were taken from there. And the basis here is mineral fertilizer. Competent, reasonable use of fertilizers has never harmed anyone.

Fertilizer feeding. How to determine how much fertilizer to apply to grapes?

The biological annual removal of one grape bush, which produces 5 kg of harvest, is approximately:

25-40 g of nitrogen;

7.5-12.5 g phosphorus;

25-50 g potassium;

0.2-0.3 g of iron, and also (in decreasing order of quantity) - chlorine (0.05-0.08 g), manganese, boron, copper, titanium, zinc, nickel, chromium, molybdenum, cobalt , lead and some others.

The removal of nutrients depends on many factors - the soil, variety, weather and other things. Of course, if a bush produces not 5 kg, but 25 kg of harvest, then the removal of nutrients will be greater, which must be taken into account.

Knowing the removal of nutrients, you can determine the dose of fertilizers that need to be applied to your vineyard. Table 1 shows the approximate composition of organic fertilizers, and Table 2 shows the range of mineral fertilizers that can be found in stores and agriculture, and the content of the active substance in them.

Grape feeding. Table 1. Amount of nutrients entering the soil with organic fertilizers, kg/t

Types of organic fertilizers	Active ingredient
Cattle manure on straw bedding
Cattle manure on peat bedding
Liquid cattle manure
Semi-liquid cattle manure
Liquid pig manure
Compost (manure: peat = 1:2)
Compost (manure: peat = 2:1)
Bird droppings
Compost (litter: peat = 1:1)
Compost (litter: peat = 2:1)
Litter manure and composts on average

Grape feeding. Table.2. Range of mineral fertilizers and content of active substance in 100 g of fertilizers

Name of fertilizer	Chemical
Nitrogen fertilizers
Sodium nitrate
Calcium nitrate
Ammonium sulfate
Sodium ammonium sulfate	(NH4)2SO4х Na2SO4
Ammonium chloride
Ammonium carbonate
Ammonium bicarbonate
Anhydrous ammonia
Ammonia water
Ammonium nitrate
Urea (urea)
Urea-ammonium mixture (UAS)
Urea with humid, phosphate, polymer shells
Phosphorus
Superphosphate	Ca(H2PO4)2. H2O + 2CaSO4. H2O
Double superphosphate	Ca(H2PO4)2. H2O
Superfos
Precipitate	CaHRO4. 2H2O
Thermophosphate	Na2O . 3CaO. Р2О5 + SiО2
Defluorinated phosphate
Phosphorite flour
Vivianite	Fe3(PO4)2 . 8H2O
Potash
Potassium chloride
Potassium salt	KSI+KSI . NaСI
Potassium sulfate
Calimagnesia	K2SO4 . МgSO4
Silvinite	KSI . NaСI
Cainite	KSI MgSO4 3H2O
Potash
Cement dust
Complex fertilizers
Potassium nitrate
Ammophos
Diammofos
Magnesium ammonium phosphate	MgNH4PO4 . H2O
Nitrophos	NH4NO3, Co(H2PO4)2, CaHPO4, CaSO4
Nitrophoska	– ” – + NН4СI, КNO3
Ammophosphate
Nitroammophos
Nitroammofoska
Azofoska
Ammophosphate	NH4H2PO4, CaHPO4, Ca(H2PO4), CaSO4
Ammoniated superphosphate
Crystalline
Mortar
LCF (liquid complex fertilizer)

It should be taken into account that if you add 100 g of nitrogen fertilizers, according to the active substance (abbreviated as a.v.), into the soil, then only about 60 g of them will get into the plant, the rest will be wasted by the soil, microorganisms and weeds. For phosphate fertilizers: out of 100 g of active substance, no more than 40 g will enter the plant; for potassium - no more than 50-60 g.

Therefore, it turns out that in order for 40 g of nitrogen to enter the plant, it is necessary to add 67 g (according to the active value), this amount is contained in 145 g of urea or 191 g of ammonium nitrate. We calculate similarly for phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Phosphorus calculation:

You need 12.5 g to get into the plant, so you should add 60% more, i.e. 20.8 g. This amount is contained in 105 g of simple superphosphate or 55 g of double superphosphate.

Potassium calculation:

the plant should absorb 50 g, so we add 40-50% more, i.e. 100 g. This amount is contained in 160 g of potassium chloride or 250 g of potassium salt.

This is how you get the dose of fertilizer that needs to be applied to the grape bush.

Grape feeding. When and how to apply fertilizers?

Organic fertilizers are applied once every 3 years in a dose of 10-20 kg per bush. Manure or composts must be well decomposed (rotted), then they will only bring benefits. Fresh manure can burn young roots, be a source of weeds and some diseases, and it will not bring much benefit as a fertilizer. Organic matter can be applied in the fall, after harvest, or in the spring, before the eyes open. Fertilizer is scattered in a radius of up to 1 m around the bush and must be incorporated into the soil.

Often, beds are made near the grape bush in which vegetables and flowers are grown. Since the roots of an adult grape bush have “gone” away from the bush by 1-2 m, or even more, you can not apply special organic fertilizers to the bush, but apply it in the garden bed. The roots of the grapes and the necessary nutrition will be obtained from the garden bed.

You shouldn’t get carried away and annually apply organic fertilizers to grapes, they don’t really like it, and besides, organics strongly acidify the soil, which is harmful for grapes.

In the year when organic fertilizers are applied, the doses of mineral fertilizers are reduced, depending on what kind of organic fertilizer was used (see Table 1).

It is advisable to apply lime fertilizers once every 3-4 years in the fall. In the spring, you can also apply lime fertilizers, but after application, you need to dig up the soil to mix the lime or water it well. Fertilizers are applied around the bush trunk within a radius of up to 1.5 m.

The dose of lime is approximately 300-500 g per bush. In the year of liming, the dose of potassium fertilizers is increased by 25-30%. This is due to the fact that calcium, which is contained in lime, makes it difficult for potassium to enter the plant.

Can be used as lime fertilizer dolomite flour(up to 0.5 kg), eggshells, deciduous tree ash, bone meal (last 3 elements 1-2 liters each).

It is advisable to apply mineral fertilizers (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and microelements) in those phases of grape development when the plant really needs it. Usually these are phases associated with the active growth of shoots, harvest or ripening of the vine. An approximate scheme for applying fertilizers is given in table. 3. In the table, fertilizers are applied to an average grape bush, for which calculations of the nutrient requirements were made a little higher. During the season, it is necessary to add 191 ammonium nitrate, 55 g of double superphosphate and 250 g of potassium salt.

Top dressing of grapes. Table 3. Approximate scheme for the use of mineral fertilizers on grapes, grams

Microelements are sold in complexes in stores. The set of microelements in them is determined by the manufacturer, and it is impossible to influence the ratio of nutrients here. Therefore, use a complex of microfertilizers with the maximum a large number batteries and add it in the concentrations and quantities specified by the manufacturer of the complex.

When choosing a set of microelements, pay attention to the following fact - whether all trace elements are present in the complex in a water-soluble form. As a rule, such sets of microelements are quite expensive. The fact is that sets of microelements are often sold, some of the fertilizers of which are very difficult to dissolve in water. This is bad, because only from the soil solution (i.e. in a dissolved state) can the plant absorb them with its roots.

Fertilizers can be applied to the soil (root application) and on the leaves (foliar application).

According to the fertilizer application scheme outlined in table. 3, all fertilizers are planned to be applied to the soil and only microelements are best applied by foliar treatment. It is very difficult to apply 50 g of ammonium nitrate per plant by foliar method, because the concentration of the treatment solution should not exceed 0.1-0.2%. It turns out that in order to apply a given dose of nitrogen to a plant, almost 5 liters should be poured. solution. In such an amount, the solution will drain from the leaves and will not bring the benefit that is hoped for.

More often, foliar treatment with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers is carried out together with the treatment of grapes with plant protection products or in the intervals between root applications. The concentration of the treatment solution should be 0.1-0.2%; a higher concentration can burn the leaves.

When foliar feeding, the fertilizer solution is applied to the plants with a sprayer. When spraying, it is necessary that the solution evenly wets the entire surface of the leaf, but does not drain from it. Usually, 150-300 g of solution is enough to treat 1 bush, i.e. in this way, only 0.1-0.3 g of fertilizer can be applied. Nutrients introduced in this way very quickly enter the plant and are included in vital processes (photosynthesis, etc.). Therefore, it is not possible to get by with just foliar feeding.

Grape feeding. Leaf diagnostics

One of the elements of monitoring the content of nutrients in the plant and indirectly in the soil is leaf diagnostics.

Visual signs of deficiency of one or another battery are as follows:

Nitrogen– the first signs of deficiency appear on lower leaves, they become pale green, and young leaves retain an intense green color, but are small and do not reach the required size. Leaf petioles often become redder. The internodes are shortened, the berries are small. Development phases (flowering, etc.) occur in a shorter period of time).

Phosphorus– the leaves remain dark green, but the petioles and veins acquire a rich red color. The size of the bunches decreases, the berries do not gain their size. Sometimes brown spots appear closer to the edges of young leaves. It should be noted that phosphorus deficiency is a rare phenomenon and is most often present on very acidic soils.

Potassium– young leaves become pale, small, underdeveloped. On ripe leaves, the edges begin to change color to brown (Fig. 21), and then die (necrosis). This process goes from the edge of the sheet to its center. The bunches and berries become smaller, the plant becomes very susceptible to fungal diseases.

Bor– a slight deficiency of boron manifests itself in the shedding of flowers and the appearance of small berries (no more than 2-3 mm in diameter). Subsequently, marbling of the leaves appears (alternating green light and dark areas), the internodes are shortened and sometimes even “fall out,” and the tops of the stepsons and shoots may die off.

The lack of boron can be corrected by adding borax (5-7 g/10m2) or using boron superphosphate.

Another disadvantage of boron deficiency is that it can be confused with frost damage to flowers or poor pollination due to cold weather. Therefore, grapes must be sprayed with a set of microelements with boron during the flowering period.

Zinc– a typical sign of a lack of this nutrient is a violation of the symmetry of the leaves and the appearance of a metallic tint (tint) in their color. Additionally, there is a weakening of the growth processes of shoots, bunches and berries.

Magnesium– Magnesium deficiency resembles potassium deficiency. The difference is that chlorosis (destruction of chlorophyll) begins at the edges of the leaf and between the main veins. In light-colored varieties, chlorosis manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves (Fig. 23), and in dark-colored varieties - in a red-brown color. Severe magnesium deficiency in the plant leads to the death of leaves. Signs of deficiency appear first on the lower leaves. Magnesium deficiency can be easily avoided by using dolomite flour as a lime fertilizer.

Iron- manifests itself in continuous yellowing of young leaves; with a severe deficiency, chlorosis can develop. The leaves turn yellow throughout the blade, only the veins remain dark green. However, similar signs can also occur in cold weather, sharp changes temperature.

Unfortunately, weather, soil and air humidity, grape variety, and soil play a very important role in the absorption of nutrients by grapes. In different soil and climatic conditions, the system of application of fertilizers (doses, timing, forms) will vary, and there will be some differences in the manifestation of a lack of nutrients.

Therefore, it is very difficult to give strict recommendations. And treat with a certain degree of skepticism categorical statements (recommendations) regarding how much and what fertilizers should be applied if they do not take into account the variety, soil and climatic conditions of your region and agricultural techniques for growing grapes.

Material prepared by: Candidate of Agricultural Sciences