More recently, the decoration of the room consisted of pasting the walls simple wallpaper made of paper, nowadays many people have a question about how to properly putty drywall before painting, since the surface must be perfectly flat and smooth. You can do this work yourself, following a certain algorithm of actions.

Why putty drywall?

Some home craftsmen believe that putting drywall putty under wallpaper is a waste of time and effort. This work is very painstaking and requires special perseverance. In some situations, when decorative panels are used for surface cladding, it is possible not to putty the plasterboard surface. In other situations you need to putty.

Seams and fastener heads must always be sealed, regardless of the finishing method. Also, during transportation or improper storage, gypsum fiber boards can become deformed, which can be easily corrected with putty.

Plasterboard walls must be puttied before wallpaper, painting, and decorative plaster. If as facing material will be applied ceramic tiles or PVC panels - just seal the seams and fasteners.

Drywall putty technology

As soon as the plasterboard structure is ready, we proceed to puttying. In order to have an idea of ​​​​the work, we will analyze the complete algorithm for finishing drywall with your own hands for painting. So:

• gypsum board surface primer;
• sealing fastener heads;
• puttying seams using serpyanka;
• installation of a perforated corner;
• applying a starting layer of putty;
• padding;
• finishing layer of putty;
• priming for final cladding.

Which putty is best for drywall? You can use any - gypsum, polymer, cement (for wet areas).

Finishing polymer coatings are applied in a thin layer, resulting in a smooth surface.

There are two types of gypsum putties - starting ones, applied first base layer, and finishing. These compositions differ in their plasticity and the size of the particles that are in the composition. These mixtures are used very often, their cost is not high.

Putty for GVL comes in two forms - in containers, ready for use, and dry, which must be diluted with water before use.

Sealing seams and fasteners

First of all, before final puttying of plasterboard structures, preparatory work should be done: prime the plasterboard and seal all joints. The work should be performed using the following technology:

• dilute the composition according to the manufacturer's instructions. It's worth remembering that gypsum mixtures they do not live long, so you need to dilute exactly as much as you can produce in 30 minutes;
• Using a small spatula, apply the mixture to each fastener head over the entire surface of the gypsum plasterboard. Carefully remove the excess; do not leave too much material on the caps, creating unevenness. Once all the screws are masked, you can begin the graying stage;
• seal the seams in the material. It is worth noting that there are two types of joints when constructing large plasterboard structures - vertical and horizontal, and the puttying technology is different.

To ensure high-quality sealing of seams, it is worth examining the technology of each type in detail.

Vertical connections

It is worth noting that the sheet of drywall on the vertical side has a beveled edge, which should be carefully filled with starting putty before sealing. Then they should be glued with sickle tape to prevent cracks from appearing later. As soon as the seams are glued, a small layer of putty is applied to the serpyanka using a wide spatula, so that the surface becomes even. As soon as all the seams are sealed, work is stopped until the solution dries completely.

Trimmed seams

Before sealing horizontal GVL connections, you need to perform the following steps:

1. unstitch the seams - cut the edge at an angle of 45 degrees on each side of the joint;
2. apply a brush to the primer and walk along the seam to remove dust and increase adhesion;
3. as soon as the soil dries, we fill the joints with putty; it is more convenient to work with a small spatula;
4. level the surface of the seam and glue the serpyanka;
5. Using a large spatula, apply a small layer of putty to the mesh.

At this point, the work of sealing the seams and masking the screw heads can be considered completed.

Arrangement of external and internal corners

Before you begin this process, you need to prepare:

• perforated corner;
• serpyanka

Serpyanka is used for arrangement internal corners when puttingtying plasterboard boxes, wall and ceiling joints. The technology is simple:

• apply a small amount of the compound to the corners;
• glue the serpyanka;
• remove the remaining material using a spatula - this will press the sickle into the solution;
• Apply a thin layer of putty, masking the mesh.

To arrange the outer corner, use perforated, corner profile, for this:

1. cut off element the right size metal scissors;
2. cut the edges by 45 degrees to prevent the edges from curling when puttying;
3. Apply thick putty to the corner of the structure, using small sticks on both sides in checkerboard pattern and press a corner into the material;
4. check level installed element, if necessary, make adjustments immediately until the material has set;
5. remove excess mortar using a spatula so that the surface of the corner is level with the plane;
6. leave the corner until the solution sets, or until it dries completely;
7. Next, the surface is sanded and a small layer of putty is applied over the entire surface of the corner on both sides.

After all the corners are in proper shape, they should be left for 12 hours until completely dry.

Before continuing to putty the surface, you need to carefully sand the corners and joints, so the quality of the drywall finishing with finishing compounds will be better. You need to grind with an abrasive mesh with a mesh size of 180 microns.

Leveling the gypsum plasterboard plane with putty

In order for the work of puttying drywall to be completed quickly, you need to prepare a large spatula (400 mm) and a “helper” spatula (100 mm).

The first layer will be the application of a starting layer of putty - a layer thickness of 5 mm, usually more is not needed for drywall. This layer will be enough to mask all irregularities in the material and possible defects.

The mixture is prepared as written on the packaging from the manufacturer.

The solution should have the consistency of thick sour cream without lumps. This can be achieved using a drill and a mixer attachment.

The technique for puttingtying the surface of drywall is simple: take a large spatula, at its end using a small spatula, lay out a roller of putty. We press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling some part of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade and run it over the newly puttied surface, leveling it. You need to level it as carefully as possible - less time will be required for grinding.

When you have finished puttingtying the drywall, wait until it dries. Then take a familiar tool - a block with a mesh - and smooth out all the flaws. Sanding is completed, remove the dust, and apply a deep penetration primer to the surface again. After drying, begin applying the second layer.

Next, you need to putty the drywall with a finishing compound. As they wrote, it can also be gypsum-based, like the starter one, or it can be polymer-based. Both are suitable, but some are more difficult to work with - they quickly begin to roll and harden.

The finishing putty is made more liquid and applied in a thinner layer. The application technique is the same, nothing changes. Besides the fact that it is more difficult to work with, it spreads worse, but you need to stretch it in a thin layer and quickly level it. Everything is much better with a primer, but without it, the bottom layer quickly draws moisture out of the fresh plaster, and it begins to slide. After applying the finishing putty, they again wait until everything is dry, then they begin to level it, but this time they do not use a mesh - it leaves noticeable grooves, but fine-grained sandpaper. It is not so convenient to work with - it clogs quickly, but the surface is smooth. If you are preparing the surface for painting, we light it from below or from the side and you can use an LED lamp rather than an incandescent one - all flaws are visible. Even very small ones.

To create a beautiful, impeccable interior in an apartment, the walls in the room must be perfectly smooth. Finishing putty on the walls can help with this, which is easy to do with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to adhere to the selected algorithm for performing the work.

roomplan.ru

Puttying drywall under wallpaper is the key to successful repairs

Puttying is one of the main and highly desirable stages of rough finishing of plasterboard surfaces. Today, the finishing of walls and ceilings from plasterboard is becoming increasingly popular. This is due to the fact that the material is inexpensive, easy to install and use. Drywall offers many possibilities. With its help you can level walls and ceilings, create the most various designs. However, just walls and ceilings made of plasterboard will not look very aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, wallpaper or paint is used to decorate it. Plasterboard putty under wallpaper is not prerequisite, but highly desirable.

Many people are concerned about the question of whether it is possible to paste over walls without putty. Theoretically, this option is possible, but professionals advise against doing this.

It is important to take into account that, despite the perfectly smooth surface, which implies unhindered gluing of wallpaper onto drywall, the method of gluing walls and ceilings without putty can ruin the material once and for all.

Drywall requires special preparation before decorating with wallpaper. This procedure will extend the service life of the material and also provide the surface with a beautiful appearance.

If wallpaper is pasted onto a gypsum board surface without prior putty, then the likelihood of damage to the structure during their dismantling increases sharply

Why you can’t glue wallpaper without putty:

• When wallpaper is glued to drywall, it adheres tightly, which makes it impossible to replace the wallpaper in the future. You will either have to tear the wallpaper off the drywall, which will ruin it, or stick new wallpaper on top old decoration.
• Drywall has a characteristic shade that will glow through light-colored wallpaper, causing a change in its natural shade.
• Despite the smooth surface of drywall, when installing it, joints and seams are formed that need to be puttied, otherwise the appearance of the surface covered with wallpaper will be poor.

Putty – important stage finishing works. It gives the surface an ideal shape, provides reliable protection for the material, makes it possible to make the next repair without problems and additional costs.

Do I need to putty drywall before wallpapering?

When doing repairs with your own hands, many people question the advisability of putty. After all, the procedure takes time, and the flat surface of the drywall seems ideal for gluing wallpaper directly onto it.

Whether or not to putty drywall is a personal matter. Before carrying out any repair work, it is important to familiarize yourself with the repair rules and consult with professional builders.

It is the professionals who advise not to glue wallpaper directly onto drywall. The only advantage in this situation will be saving time only for a short period. When you decide to put up new wallpaper, you will have to change not only it, but also install new sheets of drywall.

Plasterboard structures include sheet joints and fastening points, which will be clearly visible on the surface of incorrectly pasted wallpaper

Consequences of wallpapering without putty:

• Uneven surfaces and seams may be visible.
• Light wallpaper may change shade.
• When removing old wallpaper, sheets of plasterboard will also have to be replaced.

You can paste wallpaper onto drywall. For example, if this is the last renovation. When gluing wallpaper directly onto drywall, the wall preparation procedure still cannot be avoided. Before gluing the canvases, you must apply several layers of primer, which will protect the surface from the appearance of mold and mildew.

If the wallpaper is to be replaced in the future, it is better to spend a little time and provide a high-quality surface for finishing work.

How to putty plasterboard under wallpaper correctly

Puttying is a simple construction process when it comes to drywall. It is easy to putty on a smooth surface. The most important task is to putty joints and remove surface defects.

Before puttying, it is important to check the surface of the drywall for the presence of screws that may stick out from the wall. To do this, you need to run a spatula over the entire surface, listening to the metallic sound. If self-tapping screws are found, they should be screwed in even deeper, and the depth should not reach half the thickness of the sheet.

Serpyanka is needed for high-quality sealing of gypsum board joints. It is glued to the surface, then a layer of putty is applied. If you do not use tape, cracks may subsequently appear at the joints of the sheets

The surface preparation process includes putty, primer and sealing of seams with special tape.

1. Prime the surface to protect the drywall from fungi and mold.
2. For better application of putty, the surface can be sanded, removing unnecessary irregularities and dirt.
3. Prepare the necessary working tools. To do this you will need two spatulas: large and small. Use a large spatula to apply the putty material to the surface, and use a small spatula to apply the putty to the large one, distributing the material evenly over the entire surface. work surface spatula.
4. The putty must be applied strictly from top to bottom. It is important to follow all the rules and apply putty in two layers. The first layer will eliminate all defects on the surface, the second will complete the complete finishing of the drywall. After applying the initial layer, you need to let it dry. The second layer can only be applied to a dry surface.
5. After the second layer of putty has dried, it is necessary to sand the surface. For safety reasons, you must use a respirator and safety glasses. Sanding is performed in a circular motion, with minimal pressure on the wall.
6. Apply primer. It will protect the surface and also improve the adhesion of glue and wallpaper. For reliability, the primer can be done twice.

A layer of primer will also protect the surface decorative finishing walls from possible dampness

In order for the wallpaper to lay easily on the surface, the putty must be smooth, without irregularities or depressions. It is important to carry out all its stages correctly, ensure that each layer dries, and only then apply a new layer of putty and primer.

How to choose the right putty

The quality of putty depends on the materials from which it is made. There are many companies on the market that offer putty at a wide variety of prices.

It is important to understand that the minimum price indicates the low quality of materials. Therefore, when choosing putty, you should not skimp.

Putty can be intended for different types of work, so it is important to choose a specialized putty.

It is not recommended to choose bulk putty if you have no experience in finishing work. Failure to comply with the proportions when diluting it can ruin all the work done so far.

Material selection rules:

• You cannot use putty marked “for exterior use.”
• Do not use putty that has already expired.
• Can't be used too much cheap material. Firstly, such material will not ensure the quality of the putty and its reliability. Secondly, the consumption of such materials will be large, which will lead to costs.
• Give preference to ready-made mixtures. This will allow you not to waste time preparing the solution and will ensure confidence in its quality.

Correctly selected material for putty will provide a high-quality surface that will reliable protection for drywall and an ideal surface for wallpapering.

Do-it-yourself drywall putty for wallpaper (video)

Drywall - modern building material, which is widely used for repair work. Consumers choose this material because it is inexpensive, high quality and easy to install. Those who carry out repairs themselves, after installing plasterboards, think about the advisability of putty before applying wallpaper. Professionals definitely recommend puttingtying drywall. This will provide a secure surface. Drywall will last a long time, and tired wallpaper can be replaced with new ones without additional costs or effort.

homeli.ru

Plasterboard putty under wallpaper

Do-it-yourself puttying of plasterboard walls under wallpaper

An important stage of repair work is preparing surfaces for painting and wallpapering. A popular coating is plasterboard, as it perfectly insulates and levels the walls and does not require dirty work, as with plastering. The question is whether to putty plasterboard covering under wallpaper, each owner decides independently, but experts recommend puttingty.

If you do not putty the surface, then when using light-colored wallpaper, the seams will become noticeable, and the wall will not look entirely aesthetically pleasing. In addition, after a while, old wallpaper will be difficult to remove, since it is removed along with the cardboard covering. The walls will have to be updated and sheathed with plasterboard again. Therefore, it is easier to remove old wallpaper if the drywall under the wallpaper has been puttied. After cleaning the old canvas, an even layer remains, ready for pasting with new wallpaper.

What kind of putty should I choose?

The material plays an important role when performing putty work; the speed of the process and the result depend on its quality.

• Do not purchase material marked “for outdoor use.” Such putty can be intended for finishing work on the outside of the house, facades and contain harmful substances;
• Check the expiration date of the material;
• Do not buy cheap putty, as its consumption will be greater and the quality will be worse;
• It is better to use ready-made putty, since the dry material requires mixing using a mixer and special containers. The finished mixture is always prepared correctly and it is easier for the master to work with it.

To level surfaces, putties for various purposes are used.

Types of putty materials

• Leveling putty (masks noticeable defects);
• Putty for the second layer (prevents peeling of the first layer, creates a smooth and perfect flat surface);
• Special putty for repairing cracks and joints.

Leveling putty can be made from cement, gypsum or polymer materials. It should be noted that it is not advisable to use gypsum putty in a damp room, since this material is not resistant to moisture. It is better to use cement putty, but it can create microcracks when drying. Most acceptable polymer material, but it is more expensive.

Most often, builders use finishing putties from famous manufacturers. Such putties eliminate the most minor defects and are applied in a thin layer not exceeding 1-1.5 mm. Layers using “super-finishing putties” are even thinner - less than 0.3-0.5 mm. The variety of putties allows you to choose the optimal material and perform quality work.

Plasterboard putty

Plasterboard puttying under wallpaper is carried out in several stages, starting with surface preparation, priming, putty, and ending with surface sanding. Allow the primer to dry thoroughly before applying the first coat. The optimal wall temperature is at least 5?, otherwise the adhesion of the putty material to the drywall will be fragile. It is better to use all the ready-made mixture in buckets at once, since the unused mass becomes unusable after storage. If you prepare the mixture yourself, then you will need a drill and a mixer; infuse the prepared putty or apply it immediately (indicated in the instructions).

Sanding drywall

To obtain a perfectly smooth surface, drywall after putty is sanded using a special-purpose float with fine sandpaper. However, you should sand the surface carefully so as not to remove too much, otherwise the cardboard covering will show through.

After this process, the room is cleared of dust, then a primer is applied to the surface of the drywall. After completing the above work, the drywall is ready for painting or wallpapering. It should be remembered that all processes (cleaning, puttying, priming, grouting) must take place on a dry wall and apply each subsequent layer after the previous one has dried. Otherwise, pellets may form, which will negatively affect work.

Drywall primer

Preparatory work include cleaning the surface from dirt and dust, removing incorrectly screwed screws, and applying mesh (serpyanka) between the joints of drywall so that cracks do not form afterwards. Next, the defects are eliminated - dents or scratches are covered with putty. The primer is applied to a whole sheet of drywall, or joints, corners and repaired areas are selectively primed. To perform this operation you will need a roller and a special primer. The material consumption is small, one layer is usually enough and there is no need to skimp on the primer.

Nuances when carrying out puttying work

• For convenience, it is better to have two spatulas - wide and narrow. A wide spatula will be needed for applying layers and leveling the surface, and a narrow one is needed for finer work and removing the remnants of the first layer;
• For working in corners, a corner spatula is useful;
• Can be used building level in order to determine how evenly the layers are laid;
• Processing of seams begins from the top, putty is applied to the seams and lightly pressed into the recess using longitudinal movements. When performing this work, you should not save material, since after the putty dries, pits may form at the joints;
• When applying several layers, the next layer is always applied after the previous one has dried.

The main key to successful work is accuracy and patience, since wallpapering requires a perfectly flat and smooth surface. To check the quality of the putty, you can make control strokes; this will allow you to feel the material and find out its properties (how quickly it sets). If you comply correct angle and the pressure of the spatula, then as a result of sweeping movements a smooth and even surface is obtained. The resulting minor protrusions are easily removed with an abrasive mesh. Sanding drywall

Tools used during work

To carry out puttying work, you will need special tools - spatulas of different widths, an abrasive mesh, a roller, a grater. To level, you need a wide spatula, and to remove an excess layer of putty or work in hard-to-reach places, you will need a narrow spatula. When working with corner connections use an angle spatula or special plastic or aluminum corners. It is recommended to first treat all corners, and then apply the entire layer of putty.

For priming work, use a roller, and for sanding, use a grater with fine emery cloth. To clean the surface or remove excess layer, use an abrasive mesh. Finished surfaces should be treated with care with a mesh to avoid minor scratches. If the master prepares the mixture himself, then it is necessary to have a low-speed drill and a mixer attachment.

Thus, plastering plasterboard walls under wallpaper is an important and painstaking process that requires dexterity and skill; the quality of the work done depends on the accuracy of the master. Your home will become cozy, beautiful, and the interior stylish and fashionable if the best materials are used and the renovation processes are carried out efficiently and correctly.

shabashka-pro.ru

Plasterboard putty for wallpaper + video

Recently, drywall has become often used for insulation and leveling of walls. This choice is very convenient, as it allows you to quickly and efficiently level the surface. Also, such work is considered clean and after completion you will not need to waste time removing contaminants. In this article we will look at how to putty drywall under wallpaper with your own hands.

Why putty drywall?

Many people don’t understand why putty on drywall under wallpaper if the surface is already perfectly flat. The thing is that without putty the wallpaper will be very difficult to remove from the wall. The sheets will be removed along with the drywall layer and the wall covering will have to be re-covered. Also, if you decide to hang thin, light-colored wallpaper, the seams between the sheets will be visible. Therefore, we highly recommend plastering the walls to avoid possible problems with wallpapering.

Which putty to buy

It is very important to buy quality material. To ensure your purchase meets your expectations, follow these tips:

The first step is to clean the dust and debris from the surface of the sheet. Then you will need to inspect the drywall to identify incorrectly screwed screws. You will need to run a spatula across the sheet; if the blade does not cling to anything, you do not need to change anything. If obstacles prevent the spatula from moving, you will need to tighten the screws.

Also make sure that the screws are not screwed too deeply into the walls, otherwise problems with the putty may arise. If the screw is screwed in deeply, remove it and a short distance screw in the new one.

If defects are found on the surface - cracks, dents and scratches, they will need to be repaired with putty before applying the base layer. If the defect is serious, the seal must be carried out in several layers, but remember that the layer of mortar must be dry before continuing.

Surface primer

We recommend applying the primer to the entire sheet. In no case should you skimp on the material, since the success of the work done depends on the primer. It will protect the walls from mold and other bacteria, and will also help prevent the wallpaper from peeling off.

The primer must be applied using a roller. You only need one layer, so it won’t take a lot of time and effort. Afterwards you will need to seal the joints with a special reinforcing tape. It must be applied so that it is exactly in the middle of the seam formed by two sheets of drywall. Watch a video that will help you better understand priming the surface with your own hands:

Preparing putty

If you purchased a ready-made mixture, you can proceed to puttying and wallpapering immediately. But the dry solution will first need to be prepared according to the instructions on the package. Usually it is necessary to dilute it in warm water and mix well, using construction mixer. If you don't have a mixer, try using a special attachment on a drill, it can also help. Under no circumstances try to mix the mixture by hand, as you will not succeed and will most likely ruin the solution.

Remember that some mixtures require infusion, while others are recommended to be used immediately. After preparation, you need to stir the solution again. In order to prepare efficiently, be sure to follow the advice and instructions on the packaging, otherwise you risk ruining the putty and putting the wallpapering at risk.

To do the work with your own hands efficiently and avoid making stupid mistakes, we recommend using the following tips:

To understand in more detail all the nuances of putty plasterboard walls under the wallpaper with your own hands, we strongly recommend watching the following training video:

Surface grinding

Since wallpaper can only be glued to a perfectly flat surface, putty walls will also need to be sanded. To do this you will need to use an emery grater. Do not forget that a lot of dust will be generated during the process, so we recommend wearing protective equipment that can protect your eyes and body.

After completing the work, do not forget to remove dirt with a vacuum cleaner. You will need to apply another layer of primer to the surface, and now you can proceed directly to wallpapering. Watch the following video to better understand the nuances of sanding for wallpapering:

As you can see, applying drywall putty under the wallpaper with your own hands is not so difficult. The main thing is to do everything carefully and not to rush anywhere. Remember that if a mistake is made, the entire wallpapering project will be at great risk. To better familiarize yourself with puttying walls under wallpaper, we recommend watching the training video:

Painting the surface of drywall and gypsum fiber is the most common method of finishing them in practice. The process of applying a paint coating to the surface to be finished consists of the following stages: surface preparation, priming, puttying, sanding and, finally, painting.

Puttying

This operation is intended to level surfaces. Thick and insufficiently elastic layers of putty may crack during operation, as a result the protective properties of the coating will be reduced. Therefore, the putty should be applied in a thin layer (no more than 1 mm). First, local putty is applied to the primed surface, and then continuous putty. Each layer of putty must be thoroughly dried. The number of layers should not be more than three. If necessary, use more Between the layers of putty, a layer of primer is applied between them.

Nowadays, surface preparation for painting with water-dispersion compositions in Russia is carried out using latex putty from domestic manufacturers. Latex putty is a mixture of fillers and aqueous dispersion of synthetic polymer (latex) with the addition of auxiliary substances.

Purpose: used for sealing seams between plasterboard boards and for leveling surfaces used indoors for subsequent painting or wallpapering.

Directions for use: Before starting work, clean seams or other surfaces to be puttied from grease, dust and other contaminants. Before puttying, it is recommended to treat flat heat-affected surfaces of gypsum boards with latex diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. Prime concrete and plastered surfaces with latex diluted with water in a ratio of 1:6. Apply the putty with a spatula at a temperature not lower than 10 and not higher than 30°C. Upon completion of work, rinse tools with water.

Sand with sandpaper No. 0-6 or sanding mesh No. 120, as well as a damp sponge.

Consumption: 230g/sq.m. with a two-layer coating.

Drying time each layer at 120±2°C - 2 hours.

The exposure time of the putty layer before applying paint must be at least 24 hours at 120±2°C.

Latex putty is environmentally friendly, non-toxic, fire and explosion proof.

Grinding

The putty surface after drying has unevenness and roughness. Irregularities and specks are also observed on dried surfaces of primers and paints. Grinding is used to remove irregularities, debris and smooth out roughness. During the grinding process, the surface being processed is exposed to many tiny abrasive grains, as a result of which scratches are formed and it becomes dull. This significantly improves adhesion between coating layers.

For grinding, abrasive sandpaper on a paper and fabric basis is used, as well as a sanding mesh, which is attached to a sanding device. The grain size (No.) of the sanding sandpapers (or meshes) is selected depending on the type of coating being processed.

Application of paint coatings

The protective and decorative functions of paint and varnish coatings have been known for a very long time. From the very beginning paint and varnish materials(LKM) both the materials themselves and the methods of their application are constantly being improved. Paintwork materials began to be widely used in the most various areas already in the nineteenth century. Over the past time, the range of paints and varnishes has changed dramatically: from natural paints they gradually moved to synthetic-based materials, organically diluted, with a high solids, powder, etc.

The first and simplest method of applying paint is brush. Unfortunately, in addition to its undeniable advantages, the brush has many disadvantages, primarily the low painting speed (about 10 sq.m./h).

Using a roller instead of a brush can significantly increase the speed of painting, in particular large and flat surfaces, such as ceilings, but with its help it is difficult or even impossible to paint quick-drying varnishes or materials with a viscosity of more than 120 sec (using the VZ-246 funnel).

Other known methods: pneumatic spraying, airless spraying, painting products in electric field high voltage, dipping and jet painting are practically not used in construction.

In the practice of finishing work, small horizontal or vertical surfaces are painted with swing brushes, metal lattice structures, and appliances. central heating, pipes - with hand-operated brushes. Large, flat surfaces are painted with rollers and pads.

The ceiling is a large surface. Therefore, to paint it, it is recommended to use a brush as wide as possible. Work will be difficult with her. For large, flat areas, a 75mm or 100mm brush is best. An even wider one, 126 mm, requires special skills when handling it.

The bristles of brushes are most often made from bristles, horsehair, plant fibers and synthetic threads. The bristles take up more paint and are very flexible. But sometimes it is mixed with horsehair to make the brush cheaper. Fiber and synthetic fibers are added to the bristles to make the brush tougher.

For various types of paint, it is recommended and different types brushes Alkyd and oil paints can be applied with brushes like natural hair, and from artificial ones. It is best to paint with enamels using a natural bristle brush. But latex paints It is recommended to apply with artificial fiber brushes. They retain their shape better and remain resilient regardless of the water content in the paint. Optimal choice- brushes made of polyester fibers. They are quite expensive, but if properly stored and cleaned after use, they last for years without losing their qualities.

It is very important to choose a brush of the appropriate shape. Regular flat, with right angles, designed for general works on a flat surface. For fine, precise edges and lines, you will need a flat, thin brush with chisel-shaped bristles. A small, angular brush works well for painting hard-to-reach areas, while round or oval brushes are used for painting thin, curved surfaces (such as pipes).

Before use, new brushes must be immersed in water for 1-1.5 hours or “knocked” against a hard edge of an object or corner in order to smooth the bristles and remove loose hairs, which during painting can remain on the wall and spoil its appearance. .

But one brush is not enough to paint the ceiling. Makes your work much easier and faster roller. It should be used wherever possible. You can paint with a roller twice as fast as with a brush, and, naturally, labor costs will be less. Especially if you also purchase a sliding extension of the roller handle for working on high areas of walls and ceilings.

When painting a surface with a roller, keep in mind that the roller should include a vessel with high sides and a paint grid inserted into it. Rollers can have short or elongated handles, which allows you to paint rooms of normal height without the use of scaffolding.

Rollers They come with different piles - short, medium and long. A short pile that holds a small amount of paint is best for glossy paint. After working with it, you get a thin, very smooth layer. Medium pile holds any type of paint well and gives a soft, punctuated effect. A long-haired roller is used to roll a thick layer of paint onto an uneven, textured, damaged or very porous surface. After working with such a roller, you get a punctuated effect.

Before working with a roller, the surface of gypsum board and gypsum fiber board is painted with a brush in places of wall protrusions, at platbands, baseboards, electrical fittings and at the border of two different colors. The roller is dipped into a vessel with a paint composition and the excess is squeezed out by rolling it over a plastic grid. The surface of the ceiling is painted in two or three passes: the first is done in horizontal stripes parallel to the floor, moving the roller along the ceiling from the door to the window, the second - in a perpendicular direction, with shading of the applied layer. When applying the third layer of paint, the roller is moved over the second layer towards the window.

There is another, no less common tool for painting - a pillow. “Cushion” is a square or rectangular piece of short-pile fabric glued to a sponge and mounted on a metal or plastic handle. The “cushion” is immersed in a shallow container of paint or loaded in a trough with a drum and then pressed against the surface to be painted, moving across it. "Pillows" come in different sizes.

It applies less paint than a brush and roller, but doesn't leave the smears that a brush can leave. Therefore, using a pillow is easier to obtain an even coating. Special edge pads allow you to ensure a smooth edge of the painted wall at its junction with the ceiling. This pillow is equipped with wheels that guide it along the ceiling.

Paint pads are available different forms and sizes. Models are available with removable handles, with spacer rollers, models with replaceable pads and models with inclined pads designed for painting corners.

From the point of view of the compatibility of previous and subsequent coatings, the rule here is “like to like”. However, it is possible to apply materials of different chemical bases to each other, but only after preliminary surface preparation, which includes all the steps outlined above.

XXX- applies very well,

XX- applies normally,

October 22, 2016
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and installation floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Today I will tell you how to seal drywall seams with your own hands - this process is not difficult, but any violation of the technology leads to disastrous results. You need to carefully understand the work before you begin, this is the only way you can be sure that the finish will be reliable and durable. For simplicity, I have divided all the work into 3 stages, you just need to follow all the recommendations below.

Workflow Description

Let's begin to understand the specific actions that need to be performed in order for the result of the work to be the best. It is important to do everything in the right sequence and not to rush - rushing is unacceptable, especially if you have little experience.

Moreover, all problems in the form of cracks most often appear precisely because of haste, although the quality of materials is of great importance.

Stage one - preliminary activities and purchasing everything you need

No serious work is carried out without preliminary preparation. Sealing gypsum board joints is no exception; in this case, preparation is of fundamental importance. First of all, you need to figure out how to join plasterboard sheets.

Very often I am asked the question, is it necessary to leave a gap between the sheets? There is a lot of information on the Internet, but it is often contradictory and ambiguous. I have covered hundreds of square meters of walls and ceilings in my time, so I can be guided own experience and give advice from practice, and not from articles and reviews.

So, between the sheets you need to leave a small gap of 1-2 mm, this allows you to eliminate surface deformation when the building elements move; in the worst case, your putty will crack, but the sheets will remain intact.

You also need to immediately clarify how to join plasterboard sheets at the end and cut ends of the material. Here you should maintain a gap of 2 mm and additionally prepare the connection for putty, but I’ll talk about this a little later.

Now let’s look at what needs to be purchased to carry out the work; the list of materials and tools is small, so understanding it won’t be difficult:

Materials	Description
Putty composition	First of all, you need to figure out how to putty the drywall joints. Personally, I use a proven composition from the Knauf brand called “Fugen”, it is ideal for sealing joints on gypsum boards and using a sickle mesh, but it can be used to putty completely on surfaces, that is, the mixture will definitely not be wasted. The advantage is the absence of shrinkage and high resistance to cracks; the price for a bag weighing 25 kg is approximately 400-450 rubles
Serpyanka mesh	With its help, we will strengthen all joints and significantly increase their resistance to cracking. The mesh is most often sold in two widths: 45-50 and 100 mm, I use the first type in buildings made of brick and concrete, and the second in houses made of wood, since it “walks” more and needs to be strengthened more thoroughly. I recommend using self-adhesive serpyanka, it is much more convenient to use, a roll 90 meters long costs about 100 rubles
Primer	The primer allows you to strengthen the base and improve the adhesion of the putty to the surface; in addition, it creates an additional barrier to moisture penetration, which prevents the finish from peeling off in the future. I use acrylic strengthening compounds; a container of 5 liters of ready-to-use primer will cost you 200-300 rubles
Spatulas	It is impossible to apply the primer without a good spatula; for sealing joints it is best to use a wide version of 250-350 mm, and to apply the mixture and distribute it you need a narrow one hundred millimeter spatula. When choosing, be sure to check whether the tool is level; I usually go through 5-6 products until I find something normal, especially when it comes to inexpensive spatulas
Additional tool	All others should be included here necessary equipment: from a construction knife for cutting chamfers to a brush or roller for applying a primer and a screwdriver for tightening screws. The easiest way to prepare the mixture is with a drill with a mixer attachment; wide, capacious containers are well suited for the work, but, in extreme cases, you can get by with an ordinary bucket

The putty should be produced no more than 3-4 months ago, in addition, buy it only where it is stored in a heated warehouse. Violation of storage conditions reduces the quality of the composition, and very significantly.

Stage two - preparatory activities

If everything you need is at hand and the drywall is fixed to the frame or glued to the surface (by the way, you can glue it with the same “Fugen”), then you can begin the preparatory work.

The workflow looks like this:

• First of all, it is worth cleaning the surface from dust; if there are burrs or burrs at the joints, then they should be carefully cut off with a construction tool; there should be no protrusions or other flaws. You can wipe it with an ordinary rag, most often there is little dust, but if the walls have been standing for some time, then they definitely need to be cleaned, especially since it is not difficult and will not take much time and effort;
• Checking the heads of the screws is another important step, which for some reason many people skip; as a result, later, when putting putty, the spatula bounces and you have to get dirty in the mixture and tighten the fasteners. But everything can be made simpler: run your hand over the fastening points, if somewhere the screw protrudes above the surface, you will feel it. The cap must be recessed below the level of the drywall using a screwdriver or screwdriver;

• The factory edges of the sheets do not need any additional processing, but if you have joints of straight end sides or cut elements, then they need to be trimmed. A chamfer is made at the connection at an angle of 45 degrees, its width and depth should ultimately be 5 mm, cutting is done using a regular construction knife. To make it clearer to you how to cut seams, below is a photo of the chamfer cutting process;

• Before sealing the seams, it is necessary to apply a strengthening primer to the surface. Everything is very simple here: if you have a concentrate, you need to dilute it with water in the proportions prescribed in the instructions, and if you have a ready-made composition, then you need to mix it well, after which you can apply it. The treated areas are clearly visible on the drywall, so you can clearly control the process - the seams are primed 15 cm on both sides of the joint.

Stage three - sealing the seams

Now we will figure out how to properly seal the seams, there is also nothing complicated here, the main thing is to prepare the surface well and use quality materials. The workflow looks like this:

• As I said above, the seams need to be puttied with tape, and if earlier it was necessary to apply the composition and embed the serpyanka into it, then nowadays everything is much simpler. The fiberglass mesh has a self-adhesive layer, so you just need to carefully open it and, gradually unscrewing it, press it at the junction of the sheets. At this point, the consideration of how to glue serpyanka can be considered complete - when the joint is glued, the material is cut off with a construction knife;

• Before you putty the joints, you need to prepare the composition. To do this, take a container into which a certain amount of water is poured and the composition is poured; the instructions on the package will tell you all the proportions. Next, you need to stir the ingredients until a uniform mass is obtained; it is better to use a drill, since with it the quality of the mixture will be much higher, and it will be easier for you to carry out the work; the putty should have the consistency of thick sour cream;

• Let's figure out how to seal the joints; to do this, you need to apply a small amount of putty on a wide spatula; the easiest way to do this is with a narrow spatula. First of all, you need to fill the seam between the sheets, everything is simple: with movements across the joint you need to cover the recess, pressing the mass into it. This is the primary stage, the purpose of which is to fill all cavities with a composition for maximum strength;
• Now let's look at how to putty the seams correctly; the composition is leveled along the joints so that the seam recess is completely filled. That is why we need a spatula with a width of more than 200 mm. As for direct joints with a cut chamfer, in order to level the plane, the composition is applied in a wide strip - 150 mm in each direction, this will level the plane;

• We also need to tell you how to putty corners. To strengthen them, it is best to glue a 100 mm wide serpyanka mesh; it helps prevent cracking in these difficult areas. In order not to have to worry about drawing straight lines, the easiest way is to purchase a special corner spatula; it can be used for both external and internal corners; with its help you can achieve an ideal result when working with minimal costs time and effort;

Prepare no more than 5 liters of the mixture at a time, as it begins to set after 30 minutes, and you will have to throw away the putty if you do not have time to use it up.

• After the surface has dried, it must be leveled using a special sanding block and sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Here it is important to make the surface as even as possible; if after finishing sanding you find flaws, you can repair them and level the surface again. Other works follow, but this is a topic for a separate review.

We figured out how and with what to seal the seams on drywall, everything is very simple if you know the technology and use high-quality materials and convenient tools. You just need to repeat all the steps to complete the job yourself.

In order for the plasterboard structure to acquire a finished look, it must be puttied. How to putty drywall, remove corners, seal joints—everything in this article.

Do I need to putty drywall?

Nobody wants to do extra work. In addition, putty is a long, difficult process that takes a lot of time. A reasonable question arises: why putty on the flat surface of plasterboard sheets. Maybe you can do without it during finishing? With some types of finishing it is possible, but not with all.

You should always seal sheet joints, corners and screw heads. For any type of finish. Be sure to putty the gypsum board before painting. The surface of the drywall is far from ideal, and new irregularities are added during transportation and installation. If you paint the surface without first leveling it, they will all be clearly visible, especially if there is at least a slight degree of gloss.

Preparing drywall for wallpapering - you can only putty the seams, then prime the surface

The Knauf company, one of the leaders in the production of plasterboard, allows the entire surface of the sheets not to be puttied under tiles and wallpaper. Only joints, corners and screws. No one uses putty for laying tiles, but yes, for wallpaper. And all because wallpaper pasted without pre-treatment sometimes comes off along with the cardboard and sometimes even down to the plaster. So the second time, putty is simply inevitable.

You can avoid puttingty the entire surface of the sheet by using a primer. IN in this case The soil is a water-dispersed solution diluted with water. acrylic paint. It creates a film on the surface with which the glue interacts well, but this film also prevents the cardboard from being damaged when the wallpaper is torn off.

So, it is absolutely necessary to putty the drywall before painting, preferably before wallpapering (at least in one layer) and only seal the screws and seams under the tiles.

Primer for drywall: why, what and when

The primer does two things various functions. The first is that it improves the adhesion (adhesion) of two materials. As a result, when puttying, the chances of bubbles forming and material peeling are reduced. The second function is that it evens out absorbency. The result is less material consumption, and when puttying, a more even surface. So it is not advisable to skip the primer.

In theory, priming during finishing work should be done before each new operation. For example, before puttying, plasterboard sheets need to be primed to improve adhesion to the putty. Before painting or wallpapering - to reduce the consumption of paint and glue. You also need a primer before applying the finishing layer - the starting layer has to be leveled, which is why the surface turns out dusty. Without primer treatment, the finishing layer does not apply well, rolls off and may even fall off.

What primers are needed? Depends on the stage and the type of finishing material:

• Before puttying gypsum board (starting and finishing layers), use a deep penetration primer or for porous, highly absorbent surfaces.
• The same composition can be used before painting and wallpapering.
• The putty surface of the plasterboard under the wallpaper can be primed with wallpaper glue diluted with water. The proportions are indicated on the glue package.
• When painting, you need to look at the manufacturers' recommendations. Sometimes the primer is paint diluted with water. If there are no other instructions, use a deep penetration composition.

To summarize, it is worth saying that priming is a necessary operation. It allows you to get good results and reduce material consumption.

Technology: sequence of work

After the gypsum board sheets are fixed to the frame, it is time to prepare the drywall for finishing. Consider the case with full cycle- for painting. In this case, the drywall must be puttied in at least two layers. For other types of finishing that are less demanding on surface quality, we simply remove unnecessary steps. The order of work is as follows:

A few words about which putty is best to use for gypsum board. Any one will do - gypsum or polymer based (latex). Polymer putties are usually finishing - they provide a very thin layer and a smooth surface. There are both starting and finishing plaster ones. Difference in particle size. You can use any, as long as the quality is good.

There are two forms of drywall putty - dry in bags and diluted in buckets. Before use, dry mixture must be diluted with water in the indicated proportions and stirred until lumps dissolve. Compositions in buckets are already ready for use, but are more expensive. But they are guaranteed to have no lumps.

Primer coating

Before you putty the drywall, prime the surface. Any primer is applied to a dry, clean base. Therefore, we first remove dirt from the surface and remove dust (you can use a vacuum cleaner or a slightly damp cloth). After this, prepare the soil according to the instructions (sometimes you need to dilute it with water, sometimes you just need to stir it), pour it into a container and apply it with a brush or roller.

Drywall primer is available for dry and wet areas. For the bathroom and kitchen, choose soil for wet rooms; for the rest, you can use any soil. When choosing soil, pay attention to the presence of antibacterial components. They prevent the development of mold and fungi. This is especially true for the kitchen and bathroom.

Name	Consumption	Purpose	Drying time	Additional properties	Price
Penetrating primer Optimum (10 l)	6-8 sq.m/l	For priming brick, concrete, plasterboard in dry rooms.	30-40 min		600 rub for 10 kg
GLIMS Grunt (10 l)	5 sq.m/l	For rooms with normal and high humidity	30 minutes		600 rubles for 10 l
Tex Universal acrylate primer	5-14 sq.m/l		30-40 min	For dry rooms and rooms with high humidity	650 rubles for 10 l
Internal primer Prospector 10l	5-10 sq.m/l	For priming porous surfaces, including plasterboard and putty surfaces	60 min	Anti-fungal and anti-mold additives	350-400 rubles for 10 l
Feidal Tiefgrund LF 10 l	10 sq.m./l	For highly absorbent surfaces, including drywall	quick-drying	For indoor and outdoor use, frost-resistant	850 rub for 10 l

Usually, for priming drywall, it is enough to apply the composition in one layer, but in the kitchen or bathroom you can use two: to guarantee the result. After the soil has dried (the time indicated in the instructions), you can proceed to the next stage.

Sealing screws and seams

For seams there are special compounds Knauf-Fugen, Knauf Uniflot, Fugenfuller and their analogues. After the soil has dried, dilute the putty to the consistency of thick sour cream. Please note that these putties dry quickly, so dilute a small amount at a time.

We take a small spatula, apply the composition to the places where the screws are installed, and remove the excess. There should be just enough putty in this place so that the surface is even. This way we go through all the screws. They can be sealed parallel to the seams, or they can be sealed first. It doesn't matter.

The principle of working with putty is that a roller of the compound is placed on the edge of the spatula, then it is stretched in the right place

There are two types of drywall joints. Along the long side of the gypsum board, the edges are uneven - for easier sealing of this joint. But the sheets are also connected in height, where there are no ledges. You also have to cut the sheets and the joint is also end-to-end. Such connections require special technology, which will be discussed below.

Vertical joints

When puttingtying vertical joints of drywall with normal factory edges, they are first carefully filled and then glued.

After filling, while the composition is still wet, it is glued with a sickle mesh or paper reinforcing tape. This is necessary so that cracks do not form at the joints. If tape is used, it is torn into the required pieces, soaked in clean water for 10 minutes (while filling the seam).

Having filled the seam, take out the tape, hold it between your fingers, remove excess water, and glue it to the seam. Then take a spatula 8 cm wide (this is a must) and press the tape below the surface of the gypsum board. She “sits” on one of the factory ledges. They begin to press from the middle to the edges. When pressed, the putty is squeezed out from under the tape; we collect it. As a result, if you apply a wide, hard spatula (at least 20 cm wide) to the surface, you can see that the tape is below the surface of the cardboard. Then they go through putty again, leveling the joint level with the surface.

Trimmed seams

It is better to putty plasterboard in places of horizontal joints - where two slabs are connected or on vertical ones, but without edges, after pre-treatment. First, the surface is moistened with water - dip the brush in water and coat the joint well. Walk several times until the plaster gets wet. Then sharp knife cut grooves at an angle of 45°. These joints can be treated before priming. It's even more convenient.

We coat the prepared joints with primer. In this case, it is more convenient to use a brush. After drying, fill the seam with a composition for puttying drywall joints. It is more convenient to work with spatulas 10 cm wide and hard 20 cm. Apply the composition with a small one, and remove the excess with a large one. Fill well, pressing the composition into the seam. If you did everything correctly, a small roller will form, slightly protruding above the surface.

Once again we go through the seam, applying fresh putty about 0.5 mm thick, take the soaked reinforcing tape and glue it to this compound. Use a spatula 8 cm wide and press the tape well onto the surface, squeezing out the excess putty from underneath it.

In this case, a wave of paper is formed (you can see it in the photo), we make sure that it does not wrinkle, we catch it to the end, where it straightens out. Remove excess solution into the tape and adjacent area of ​​the sheet. And the last stage - again take the putty and coat the pasted tape on top with a thin layer. We make this layer as thin as possible, as they say - “to tear off”. Actually, we stretch the remaining putty in a very thin layer.

Second technology: first tape then putty

There is a second technology - first, serpyanka or paper reinforcing tape is glued onto the plaster, then it is puttied. This works faster, but the disadvantage is the voids that remain under the tape. In these places, the wallpaper may wrinkle or the putty or decorative plaster may crack.

They also use sickle mesh instead of paper tape. Serpyanka is more difficult to work with - it is rigid and its edges often stick out from the mortar. To make it a little easier, the mesh is pre-glued, and after the glue has completely dried, it is puttied. In order not to think about glue and speed up the work, use a self-adhesive serpyanka (there is such a thing).

But, anyway, it’s more difficult to putty drywall - its surface is uneven, the spatula “jumps” on the fibers and you get a small wave that is not at all easy to smooth out.

External and internal corners

External and internal corners are made using:

Paper and serpyanka are most often used to decorate internal corners - the junction of walls, as well as walls and ceilings. The technology is similar to seam sealing. A certain amount of putty is applied to the corner, paper or sickle is glued onto it, the reinforcing strip is pressed into the composition with a narrow spatula, and excess putty is removed. After this, they go through the corner again, applying a thin layer of putty on top.

Perforated corners are used to design external corners - slopes, protrusions, etc. First, a piece of the required length is cut. The metal is very thin, it can be cut even with ordinary large scissors, but if you have metal scissors, the work is easier. Edges are cut at an angle of 45° or less, rather than at 90°. So, when puttingtying drywall, the edge will not curl up.

Putty is applied to the outer corner on both sides in small islands approximately every 10 cm (can be done in a checkerboard pattern). A perforated corner is pressed into the solution, its installation is checked whether it is vertical or horizontal, and adjusted. Use a spatula to pick up excess mortar, aligning the edges in one plane with the surface of the sheet. The installed corner is left for some time until the putty dries, after which it is sanded and puttyed again if necessary.

How is it different? metal corner Sheetrock? Thin strips of metal are applied to paper base. They are more rigid than simple reinforcing paper, but it is more convenient to work with them than with conventional perforated ones, since due to the presence of paper the transition to plane is smoother.

Sanding seams and corners

If the layer is well leveled when sealing seams on drywall, sanding can be kept to a minimum. Why is it better to sand less? Because firstly, it’s long, and secondly, it’s dusty. Moreover, the dust is very fine, floats in the air for a long time and rises again from any movement. To reduce the amount of flying dust, wet rags, wet sawdust, etc. can be placed on the floor. Doors leading out of the room are covered with a wet cloth; it should be larger than the size of the door - so that dust does not fly into other rooms.

To begin with, you can go over it with a sharp, even spatula and cut off all the most protruding irregularities. Next is the sanding process. Since corners and seams at this stage do not need to be sanded to perfect smoothness, take a sanding mesh with a mesh size of 180-200 and a wooden block. A mesh is attached to the block (you can use staples from it, but the staples should not stick out). This device levels the surface. When working, it is advisable to highlight it with oblique light - this way all the irregularities are more visible. But you can’t putty plasterboard under wallpaper so carefully.

One thing - it’s better to grind in a respirator and safety glasses. Gloves will be a good idea. The dust is very fine and penetrates literally everywhere. After the seams and corners are sanded, the surface is primed again. Moreover, all of it, since dust has also settled on the untreated areas, and it worsens adhesion.

The most inconvenient places for puttying and sanding are the inner corners. For the secrets of fast, high-quality grinding of corners, watch the following video.

How to putty drywall: level the planes

To putty surfaces, you will need a large spatula - with a blade of 40 cm or more and a narrow one - 10 cm. The first layer is applied with starting putty. It is applied in a layer of about 5 mm (the maximum should be checked in the instructions for the specific putty) and hides all the unevenness. Dilute it with water until it becomes thick sour cream, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps.

The technique for puttingtying the surface of drywall is simple: take a large spatula, at its end using a small spatula, lay out a roller of putty. We press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling some part of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade and run it over the newly puttied surface, leveling it. You need to level it as carefully as possible - less time will be required for grinding.

When you have finished puttingtying the drywall, wait until it dries. Then you take a familiar tool - a block with a mesh - and smooth out all the flaws. Sanding is completed, remove the dust, and cover the surface again with a deep penetration primer. After drying, begin applying the second layer.

Next, you need to putty the drywall with a finishing compound. As they wrote, it can also be gypsum-based, like the starter one, or it can be polymer-based. Both are suitable, but some are more difficult to work with - they quickly begin to roll and harden.

The finishing putty is made more liquid and applied in a thinner layer. The application technique is the same, nothing changes. Besides the fact that it is more difficult to work with, it spreads worse, but you need to stretch it in a thin layer and quickly level it. Everything is much better with a primer, but without it, the bottom layer quickly draws moisture out of the fresh plaster and it begins to roll off. After applying the finishing putty, wait until everything dries again, then begin leveling. But this time they do not use a mesh - it leaves noticeable grooves, but fine-grained sandpaper. It is not so convenient to work with - it clogs quickly, but the surface is smooth. If you are preparing the surface for painting, we light it from below or from the side and you can use an LED lamp rather than an incandescent lamp - all flaws are visible. Even very small ones.

It is difficult to describe in words how to putty drywall - the movements are difficult to describe. In the video you can see how to hold the spatula, how to move it, how to apply or remove the solution. See the video for more details on the technology.

The question often arises, what is used to reinforce the seams in a plasterboard structure? There are various types of reinforcing tapes for gypsum board joints. Each tape performs specific functions and has its own degree of reliability. Let's figure out what is better to use serpyanka or paper tape Kurt from Knauf. Let's find out why we need a tape with metal inserts and how to install it. In the selected video you can see the subtleties and nuances that are important to observe when working with putty of gypsum board joints.

Application of reinforcing tape

Doing renovation work in an apartment, sooner or later every master or owner is faced with the use of drywall, and also needs gypsum plasterboard tape for seams and joints. This building material is unique because its application is wide:

• for leveling walls and ceilings;
• creation of multi-level ceilings;
• the work of arches, partitions, bar counters;
• creating a fireplace, niche, box;
• production of furniture elements.

Drywall has a perfectly flat surface, which is practical for finishing work. But, in order to start painting or wallpapering, the drywall should be brought in.

GVL tape is used to cover joints of plasterboard sheets. At the border of the 2 sheets there is a small depression formed by a chamfer made in advance. This depression should be sealed with reinforced tape. It performs the functions:

1. The joint is strengthened. During long-term use, drywall will not deform or crack. This is mainly due to temperature changes. Even if the temperature does not change much - only 5 degrees, the plasterboard surface is susceptible to this.
2. Brings the plasterboard surface to a perfectly flat surface.
3. If the plasterboard absorbs moisture, it will expand, and after drying it will shrink. Reinforced drywall tape maintains the integrity of the entire coating. Moisture changes can occur in private homes; when it’s spring or autumn outside, the house also becomes damp. GCR absorbs moisture. As the temperature rises, the surface dries out.
4. Reinforced tape with a metal strip insert is designed for plasterboard corners. It protects corners from cracks, as well as from mechanical stress.

To seal large cracks on the surface, use Kurt tape under drywall. It is wider in size and accordingly has a higher percentage of strength. Reinforcing tape for plasterboard Kurt is also produced for reinforcing large joints.

Without the use of tape, a plasterboard structure will not last long. As a result, deformation will occur and the surface will become covered with cracks.

Types of tape for GVL

The construction market offers a variety of materials to create the strength of a plasterboard structure. Before purchasing drywall tape, you should familiarize yourself with its application, as well as the manufacturer.

There are different types of reinforcing tape for drywall:

It is worth noting that Knauf paper tape for drywall has special, small holes to allow air to pass through, which can get under the paper when it is applied to the surface.

With application reinforced tape, a plasterboard surface or product has a fairly long shelf life - 10 years.

Mixtures for sealing joints in drywall

To reinforce the joint, you should choose the right mixture. The material used must be gypsum based and have good adhesion.

Knauf Fugen - putty produced by specialists for sealing seams between plasterboard sheets. But, sometimes it is used as an adhesive.

Knauf Uniflot is a durable waterproof mixture. After drying, this putty does not absorb moisture, so it is intended for rooms with high humidity. When using putty, reinforcing tape is not needed. The mixture is also used to seal cracks on plasterboard surfaces.

Semin CE78 - “New Formula” is intended for sealing seams in plasterboard construction. It has sufficient strength, does not crack after drying, and reinforces joints well.

JS weber vetonit is a polymer putty for sealing drywall joints. Maximum thickness applied putty up to 5mm.

Volma Shov is a non-shrinking putty mixture intended for reinforcing seams and correcting defects on drywall. The thickness of the applied putty is up to 5mm.

Serpyanka

Serpyanka goes on sale in rolls. It's a sticky bandage. The tape is made from threads using glass, which gives it strength and practicality. Knauf tape for drywall has high quality, according to many positive reviews from the masters.

Serpyanka is applicable in:

1. Sealing the seams of a plasterboard structure.
2. Elimination of cracks that have appeared. To prevent the crack from increasing in length along the surface, tape should be used.
3. At the boundaries of ceiling slabs.
4. Strengthening the internal corners of the transition between the wall and ceiling.

With all the positive characteristics of the serpyanka, there is one minus - when there is a large load on it, it stretches.

Sealing seams in gypsum boards

First, let's be clear, special gypsum putties with increased resistance to cracks are used for joints. The Knauf company recommends using Uniflot putty to seal cracks; it is durable and strong, but the cost is sometimes daunting. Therefore, it is often replaced with Fugenfüller, whose price is several times cheaper.

Putties that are used for drywall joints.

How to seal joints on drywall? Observing step by step instructions sealing the joint will not require a long time, special skills or the cost of hard physical labor.

The surface must be carefully prepared. The joint should be cleaned of dust and small pieces of drywall. Next, a dry and clean surface must be coated with a primer.

How to apply tape to drywall? There are 2 methods of installing serpyanka.

If the tape is sticky, then:

If the tape does not have an adhesive layer, sealing joints on drywall occurs as follows:

• A layer of putty from Knauf (Uniflot or Fugen) is applied to the primed surface. Layer thickness 1mm.
• Serpyanka is placed on the wet putty so that its center coincides with the joint.
• The serpyanka is slightly trampled into the putty. This can be done using a narrow spatula. At the same time, when the edges of the tape are pressed, the remains of the putty “climb out.” They need to be removed immediately.
• After gluing the tape, the putty should harden a little. Another layer of putty is applied on top of the tape; it already covers the tape and the places where the plasterboard sheet is fastened.

When installing reinforced tape, it is required that the humidity in the room be moderate. At high humidity the drywall will absorb water and when this moisture is released, the tape may not withstand stretching.

Serpyanka at the junction of plasterboard foxes

After drying, the entire putty surface is polished with fine sandpaper, all imperfections are removed.

Paper tape

Paper tape for drywall seams has not lost its relevance even now, when there are many other reinforcing materials for drywall on the construction market. The tape is used in repair work because it has many advantages:

1. The thinness of the tape allows you to quickly level the surface after gluing it.
2. When installed on a putty surface, the wet tape retains its functionality.
3. Craftsmen consider paper tape to be budget-friendly because its price is relatively low.
4. No need to use tape to use special mixtures and materials.

The temperature regime during installation work must be maintained within the range from +18 to +25 degrees. When too high temperature, the air in the room is dry, and at low humidity there is high humidity.

How to apply paper tape to drywall joints?

Paper tape is used for finishing plasterboard seams, for... To prevent the crack from growing larger, it is cleaned by making a small depression. Afterwards they prime. After drying, apply a thin layer of putty and apply paper tape. If air gets inside, the bubble should be pierced with a needle and the air will come out.

Before you start attaching the tape, you need to check the strength of the plasterboard structure. At the slightest movement of the plasterboard, the tape will not help in strength.

To reinforce gypsum board joints:

1. All drywall seams must be coated with primer.
2. After drying, the tape needs to be wetted for strength.
3. A thin layer of putty is applied to the joint, and tape is glued on top using a narrow spatula.
4. All work done is left until completely dry.
5. After the time has passed, you need to check how the tape has stuck and apply another layer of putty material on top.
6. The final action will be to smooth out excess roughness and get rid of excess putty.

When are they held? installation work There should be no drafts with reinforcing tape. Open windows and it's better to close the doors.

The procedure for installing the tape on the solution

Knauf paper tape is strong and durable. It does not tear or stretch under certain loads.

Tape with metal inserts.

Reinforcing tape with metal inserts

Tape with metal insert reinforcing for plasterboard Knauf It is not used for eliminating cracks and for reinforcing joints; it is intended for gypsum board corners. Durable, able to withstand not only changes in drywall during temperature changes, but also mechanical stress on external corners. The metal strip is made of a material that is resistant to corrosion.