Why don't seeds germinate? Common problems with seedlings and solutions
The successful development of seedlings depends on soil moisture, optimal temperature regime, proper air circulation, sufficient light, nutrients. But knowledge of this information does not always help gardeners obtain full-fledged plants. For successful cultivation It is required to monitor growth step by step and timely eliminate possible errors or prevent their occurrence. What are the problems of growing seedlings from seeds? initial stage will be discussed in the article.
Seedling infections
Change in leaf color
Pale, dull leaf color indicates a lack of light or nitrogen fertilizer.
The seedlings are moved to a lighted place or lighting is used (a 40-watt fluorescent lamp is used per 0.5 m², installed at a distance of 14-25 cm above the plants). The quality of seedlings from seeds sown later and growing at natural light, better than with early sowing under a lamp.
Remember! The darker the room, the lower the temperature the thermometer should show. But the indicators should not fall below +13.5 ° C. At low temperatures, seedlings will stop developing and may die.
In case of nitrogen deficiency, fertilize with a solution of ammonium nitrate or urea (not exceeding the proportion of 7-11 g per 10 liters of water). Blue-red spots on the foliage indicate overcooling of the soil and inaccessibility of phosphorus to plant roots. A dry rim is a sign of potassium starvation. In both cases, the plants are fed complex fertilizer, and create for them favorable conditions.
Suspension of growth after picking
- Common cause are dive errors. For example, the long roots of seedlings are not pinched, and when planted in a substrate they bend and intertwine. This leads to rotting, inhibition of plant growth, or to its death from fungal diseases, the pathogens of which penetrate through the damaged root system.
- If during planting an air cavity is created around the roots. As a result, the root hairs dry out and do not function fully.
- Low temperature and lack of nutrition.
Some plant species react negatively to picking. These include all varieties with a taproot and weak root system - cucumbers, peppers, etc. Such plants are planted in open ground, and peppers and cucumbers are sown in separate pots of several pieces.
Keep this in mind! Before planting in the beds, be sure to harden off the seedlings. You need to start hardening in cloudy weather, gradually accustoming the seedlings to direct sunlight.
Video: growing strong seedlings
Seeds of different crops germinate in different times: some need 3-4 days for this, while others take up to several weeks. The rate of seed germination also depends on their pre-sowing treatment. For example, sprouted seeds will sprout faster. The following reasons for non-germination of seeds can be identified:
If they do not germinate for a long time, it is important to remember that the germination time of different crops varies quite a lot. For example, lettuce, radish and cucumber seeds can germinate in a few days, while parsley and celery seeds can germinate in 3 weeks or more. Even within the same crop, depending on the variety, the timing of seed germination differs.
The reason for the non-germination of seeds may be that the bag of seeds has been open for a long time. Because of this, the germination rate of seeds of some crops is significantly reduced.
Stratification may be required. It is necessary when you need to get earlier shoots. Unfortunately, not everyone uses this method, and the result is poor germination, or even its complete absence.
Perhaps the seeds were sown incorrectly in open ground - too early or, conversely, late. In this case, the sown seeds simply wait for the optimal temperature. However, if they have been in the cold ground for too long, they will not sprout. For most seeds to germinate, a soil temperature of about +21°C is required, sometimes higher, but if it is 5-10°C lower than required, the emergence of seedlings will be delayed.
Often seeds do not germinate because the soil is not loose enough. It is important to consider here that at the initial stage they do not need fertile soil, since they contain the necessary supply of nutrients, but they absolutely need soil air. So to grow healthy seedlings, for germinating seeds it is better to take special mixture, not compacted, soggy soil from the garden. The mixture should be porous and loose.
Seeds do not germinate due to waterlogging of the soil. Air does not penetrate well into the flooded soil, so the seeds may simply suffocate. A common mistake when growing them is to use containers with drainage holes that are too small or without them at all.
Perhaps the seeds were washed away during watering. This is why it is so important to water the soil before sowing, and not after it, otherwise the seeds will be washed away by a stream of water into the corner of the container or will go too deep into the soil.
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Spring has clearly been delayed this year, and therefore many are only now starting to sow their favorite flowers. But if early sowing still gives you “the right to make a mistake” (if the seeds do not sprout, you can try again), then now you no longer have time for this. So is it possible to avoid failure? And are low-quality seeds really to blame most often?
You will be surprised, but this reason is by no means the most common. Although most often you can hear exactly this explanation. So why, instead of the expected Garden of Eden, do you only get an empty pot of soil and complete disappointment on top of it?
Reason one: seeds with expired expiration date
This is what is most often considered the cause of failure. Although in fact this is perhaps the least likely explanation for the lack of seedlings. Modern manufacturers seeds are very careful about the expiration dates of their products and are sure to indicate it on the bag (and, as a rule, with a reserve). So, if you planted seeds that, according to the information on the packaging, have not yet expired or have just expired, the reason for the failure is something else.
However, it is worth knowing that due to storage at too high or too low temperatures and air humidity, the shelf life of the seeds may be reduced. And be stored in a similar way they could either in the store or at your place. That's why best option– these are seeds placed in a special foil package, which protects them from external influences and increases their shelf life several times.
Reason two: “out-of-breed” seeds
All of the above (about exact expiration dates and special packaging) applies only to serious seed companies that value their reputation. If you bought a bag from some unknown manufacturer, you should not hope that the “non-pedigreed” seeds will sprout from it and subsequently delight you with exactly the same flowers that are shown on beautiful picture. Of course, the seeds are from famous manufacturer They cost a little more, but believe me, it's worth it!
Reason three: these seeds required special treatment before sowing
If you are a novice gardener, then you may have no idea that not all seeds germinate just because they are buried in the ground and watered. Alas, information about the necessary pre-sowing treatment is not always contained on the bag of seeds. Perhaps producers believe that such subtleties may scare off the buyer, and he will not purchase such “complex” seeds.
So how should you treat seeds before sowing?
Large seeds with a hard shell (such as castor beans) germinate more easily if the shell is disturbed. You can do this using sandpaper or a sharp blade, slightly filing or scoring the shell. But this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the embryo. In general, the same castor bean can germinate without such tricks, but it will take much longer to do so.
Stratification is another method of seed treatment. It is most often used when grown from seeds. perennial plants. The fact is that in nature, most perennials produce seeds in late summer - autumn, after which they are exposed to low temperatures for several months and only then germinate. This is why many perennial species simply cannot germinate without such a “cold period”. You can create it in two ways: either sow the seeds in the ground before winter, or keep the bowl with the seeds for several months on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator (unless, of course, your family doesn’t mind!).
Reason four: these seeds just take a very long time to germinate
The seeds of many flowers (especially perennials) can take almost six months to germinate. So sometimes you just need to be patient and not give up on the results of your work if the sprouts do not appear after a week.
Among perennials there are a lot of such “slow-witted” ones, but, fortunately, most of us still often grow annuals, which rarely sprout for more than a month. The most “thoughtful” include castor bean, verbena, nasturtium, kobeya and some others.
Reason five: you sowed them incorrectly
The fact is that some seeds need light to germinate, and therefore they should never be covered with soil, while some, on the contrary, germinate only in the dark (it is even recommended to cover the pot or bed with them with something dark).
In addition, some plants have very small seeds that simply cannot break through even the smallest layer of soil. And if the seeds of some nasturtium are quite capable of hatching from under a two-centimeter layer of soil, then lobelia or petunia can germinate only with surface sowing.
By the way, many manufacturers indicate information about sowing depth and light conditions on the packaging. So, read carefully!
Reason six: you forgot to water them on time and they just dried out
If you watered the seeds when sowing, this does not mean that the resulting moisture will be enough for them until they germinate. Very often the seed swells, a future sprout begins to form in it and... it is at this moment that the moisture in the soil runs out. As a result, the sprout dies and subsequent watering cannot correct the situation.
Reason seven: they require higher temperatures to germinate.
This reason is especially relevant when seeds are sown directly into the ground in the spring. The fact is that most of the flowers grown in our gardens and on balconies (especially annuals) come from southern countries, and therefore they need a temperature of at least 15 or even 20 degrees to germinate. In cold and wet soil they simply rot. This is why it is recommended to grow most annuals as seedlings. By the way, information about optimal temperature germination is also quite often indicated on seed bags.
Reason eight: they sprouted, but immediately died
If you haven’t checked the seedlings for a week or two, then during this time the newly appeared sprouts may crawl out, bend, and even... completely disappear (especially if they were very tiny).
So, remember that if you sowed seeds in a garden bed and left the dacha, then during your absence the seedlings may not only have time to appear, but also die from frost or drying out of the top layer of soil. The best way to protect them from these problems - cover the crops with a film that retains moisture and heat.
But if the seeds were sown at home, then the tender seedlings have a chance to die without your attention both from the lack of water and from its excess. In the latter case, a disease such as “black leg” poses a danger. It leads to tender seedlings rotting at the base and dying in just a few days (asters, lobelia, petunia, gillyflowers, etc. are especially susceptible to this).
Reason nine: when sowing granulated seeds, you did not moisten the granules enough
Of course, seeds in granules are very convenient. Especially when the seeds themselves are very small and it is almost impossible to sow them at a normal distance from each other. In addition, granules usually contain a supply of nutrients for the first period of growth, as well as drugs that protect young plants from certain diseases. Everything is fine, but there is one “but”! In order for a seed to be able to destroy the granule shell, it requires very good watering. That is, just slightly moisten top layer There is clearly not enough soil!
If the seeds require only surface sowing (that is, they cannot be covered with soil), the granules are simply laid out on the surface of the soil and thoroughly moistened with a sprayer (it is better to use a watering can only when sowing in open ground, when the granules or the seeds themselves are large) and cover the bowl with glass or film.
If it is recommended to cover the granules with soil, then before doing this they still need to be watered, then sprinkled with a thin layer of soil and watered again. Covering the crops with glass or film is also necessary in this case.
Reason ten: the Moon is to blame for everything
And finally, the most controversial of all possible explanations. Perhaps the fact is that you sowed the seeds during an unfavorable period. lunar calendar(that is, when this cannot be done, because the energy of seed germination during such a period is greatly reduced). Although, to be honest, I treat such calendars with a great deal of skepticism. Many times I was convinced that seeds sown in the “correct” period did not germinate, but, on the contrary, in the “wrong” period, they sprouted almost the next day. However, if there are no other explanations for the failure, it is very convenient to blame everything on the Moon. Based on this, it is better not to even look at such calendars in advance. Well, so that later you can reassure yourself that you didn’t know that the day for sowing was not suitable. Just in case you still fail!
However, I wish you that you do not have such problems and that your favorite flowers not only sprout quickly, but also grow beautifully, delighting you with their beauty all summer long!
In February, the sun finally appeared, and my soul felt warmer - spring is near! The stores are quickly selling out beautiful packets of seeds. It's interesting to see who chooses which. Some look at the picture and the appearance of the flower, others are only interested in reliable manufacturer. Experienced gardeners have long noticed how much the quality of seeds depends on the manufacturer. Moreover, quality always costs more. But it’s better to overpay than to be disappointed later. The seeds did not germinate and time was lost. This means that the desired flowers will bloom later (if new seeds sprout). So why don't they sprout?
One reason has already been mentioned - the quality of the seeds, and it depends on the manufacturer. How to determine a supplier you can trust?
Firstly, the name of the company. If you know it and, as they say, “have heard of it,” then this good sign. Sellers with many years of experience value their reputation. This gives reason to hope that they offer a quality product.
Secondly, the information on the packaging. The following information must be indicated on the bag: name of the crop, variety or hybrid; the standard and lot number are indicated; number of seeds in grams or pieces; name of the manufacturer; her full coordinates (address and telephone); implementation period.
If any of this data is missing, then this should alert you. Apparently the supplier has something to hide. An incomplete address means there is nowhere to file a claim. The standard and batch number are not indicated - most likely, the seeds are not of the best quality.
Unfortunately, there are many fakes on sale, and fly-by-night companies sell under the name of a well-known supplier. Sometimes they copy the packaging so accurately that it is difficult to recognize the fake. Please note the deadline. It is established by law: seeds in single paper bags must be sold before the end of the year following the year of packaging; in double bags (with a layer of foil, polyethylene or other airtight materials), seeds can be sold from the date of packaging until the end of the second year of sale. If the bags have a longer shelf life, then, as a rule, they sell stale goods.
And one more important point: The deadline should under no circumstances be written in typographic font. This means that the bags were printed in advance and it is not known when the purchased seeds were packaged in them. According to the rules, the sales date is printed after packaging and applied with a special stamp in blue or black ink. Let's look at a few more issues to consider.
Who is selling?
Seeds are now sold everywhere: in large garden centers, small shops, open-air markets and even grocery stores. On the one hand, this is good - the seed market has become wider.
On the other hand, where is this product stored? Outdoor tents and basements can be very humid. Temperature changes and humidity reduce germination several times. So it turns out that you can buy non-germinating seeds on the street from a private seller.
Sometimes it's the other way around. The private owner saves the seeds “like the apple of his eye,” but in a large store they lie in a warehouse where the roof is leaking. When purchasing, inspect the bag to see if there are any signs of moisture on it.
Unscrupulous sellers often sell expired goods. They cover the expiration date with a strip of paper on which they place new date. Do not buy such seeds, even if there are big discounts on them.
Who sows?
This time it's about you and me. Sometimes we ourselves make mistakes when sowing seeds. And the reason is often not that there is not enough knowledge, but that there is too much diligence.
For example, some bags are marked “Pro” - these seeds are very high quality, intended for experienced gardeners. Typically, these seeds have already been treated with biologically active substances, fungicides, and microelements. They do not need to be soaked or disinfected before sowing. On the contrary, we begin to stimulate them, disinfect and germinate them. Such concern can have the opposite effect.
Beginners make other mistakes as well. Most often, the seeds are buried very deeply in the ground and then watered excessively.
You should know that a number of plants germinate in the light (in particular with small seeds). They are sown superficially, and when incorporated into the soil, their germination rate drops sharply.
Excessive watering causes a crust to form on top, and sprouts cannot break through it. The earth becomes denser and there is almost no air left in it. The seeds may rot.
Overdried soil also leads to the death of seeds. The sprouted seeds will simply dry out in it.
When and how to sow?
Sowing dates are great value, but other criteria are also important. Namely: what conditions are the seeds in after they hit the ground? During normal sowing in a room, the seeds are at high temperature(+20..24С), which almost does not change during the day.
In nature everything is different. The seeds fall into the ground in the fall and remain there until spring. At the same time, they experience both cold and sharp changes temperatures, and humidification with melted “living” water.
Therefore, most perennial flowers require stratification. This is a procedure in which the seeds go through an “artificial” winter. They will not germinate without refrigeration. Usually it is written on the packaging whether stratification is needed or not.
The duration of stratification depends on the type of plant. The longer this period, the earlier sowing begins. Without stratification, seeds may not germinate, or germination will be extremely low. IN best case scenario, the seeds will sprout next year.
If you sowed seeds and they did not germinate on day 10-11, then most likely you need to send them for stratification. For some crops with a short period of stratification (4-8 weeks), it is not too late to carry out it. These include perennial bells, in particular alpine species.
Stratification is not scary
Many gardeners are afraid of this procedure, and they do not buy seeds that require stratification. In fact, everything is not that difficult.
For stratification, seeds can be sown in loose, moist soil. First, the container is left at home for 3-4 days to allow the seeds to swell. Then they put it in the refrigerator (not the freezer) or bury it in the snow.
The option with snow is better, since for many crops not only the cooling process itself is important, but also natural temperature changes (as in nature). After 1-2 months, the container is taken out from under the snow (from the refrigerator) and transferred indoors. It is advisable that the temperature changes gradually: the seeds stand on the loggia or in the vestibule for several days (+10..12C), and then at home.
In a few days the shoots will appear. And here a new danger awaits them - the dry air of the room. A mini-greenhouse will help protect you from it. It is very easy to organize. Place the container with the crops (mayonnaise jar) in a bag and tie it so that air remains inside. If there are a lot of jars, then we use a shelf (for example, for dishes) and cover it with film (photo 2). For ventilation, open the bags and film every day.
Light is the key to success
When sowing, three main conditions must be observed: good drainage, loose soil and sufficient lighting.
The first two requirements are easy to fulfill. High-quality loose soil can be purchased at the store. Good drainage will provide expanded clay and large drain holes(diameter about a pencil). These conditions guarantee that the seeds will not die from the soil crust and will not rot due to stagnant moisture.
As for lighting, you will have to work hard here. First of all, buy lighting fixture- a fluorescent lamp or a special lamp. Then mount it on the wall, on a window or on special shelves (bookshelves, kitchen shelves, etc.). The height above the plants should be 20-25 cm.
Seedlings need bright light as soon as they appear on the surface. Without it, the thin stems stretch and fall to the ground under the weight of the cotyledon leaves. This happens in just a few hours. Such plants often get sick and die. You can save them if you add sand and earth to the cotyledon leaves. And the main thing is to provide light. But it is better to immediately keep the crops under the lamp, at least from the fifth to sixth day (some sprout on the third day, others on the tenth).
Most annual flowers can be sown in late February - early March. Many manage to grow even with later sowings. It all depends on the lighting. If you took care and provided lighting, feel free to sow in February. If there is no additional lighting, the seedlings will stretch out and may die from blackleg. It is better to sow without additional lighting in April.
Well, shall we get started?
So, we chose a supplier, checked all the details on the packaging and bought the seeds. Prepared at home good soil and provided lighting. You can start sowing. Beginners may be intimidated by all these subtleties. For them - a list of crops that sprout without special tricks (on page 27). And if you want something new, rare, then before you buy an unfamiliar flower, find information about it. Take verbena, for example: if you sow it too early, it will not grow well. The fact is that her seeds “sleep” for a long time. The seedlings turn out weak and grow slowly. Because of this, many people consider verbena to be capricious, although this is not at all the case. In March, verbena emerges quickly and grows much better. Knowing the characteristics of the plant will help you achieve success.
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Our customers, among whom there are many beginning gardeners and gardeners, often ask the sales staff of the chain stores “ Harvest bed“Why purchased seeds don’t always germinate. Yes, we cannot guarantee the quality 100% seed material(defects, of course, happen in any production), but we work only with reliable and proven agricultural companies, whose products have virtually no “failures.” In further dialogue, it usually turns out that the seeds are not the issue. There may be several reasons why seeds do not germinate. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the TOP 5 most common mistakes.
I. Retraining of seeds for seedlings
This error is due to simple inattention and/or lack of experience. Many elite seeds are already properly prepared for sowing. The package of prepared seeds always contains a corresponding mark or recommendations for cultivation. Unfortunately, the information on the packaging is often ignored. Therefore, depending on the crop, the seeds begin to be additionally prepared (warmed, soaked, hardened, disinfected). And then they wonder why the seeds don’t germinate or why they germinate, but not all of them.
II. Shelf life of seeds
Each bag of seeds indicates the expiration date (sometimes with a “reserve”) and storage conditions. The average shelf life of vegetable and flower seeds without loss of germination is 3-5 years. The more time passes from the moment you purchased the bag, the less likely it is that something will grow at all - the germination percentage decreases every year. Of course, you can buy seeds for future use (they may be more expensive in a year), but there is another way to save money - practice joint purchases: cooperate with your neighbors in the country and welcome to our store for a discount on volume.
| Shelf life* | Vegetable seeds | Flower seeds |
|---|---|---|
| 1-2 years | Parsnip, celery | Aster, calendula, verbena, gatsania, godetia, kochia, foxglove, |
| 2-3 years | Onion | Ageratum, chrysanthemum, viola, gaillardia, dahlia annua, delphinium, iberis, bellflower, lobelia, scabiosa, zinnia, purslane, hollyhock |
| 3-4 years | Peppers, eggplants, lettuce, spinach, beets, carrots, turnips, kohlrabi | Carnation, snapdragon, nemesia, lavatera, poppy, eschscholzia, petunia, marigolds, nasturtium, sweet peas, lupine, cosmos, salvia, decorative beans, sage. |
| 4-5 years | Radish, radish, white cabbage, cauliflower | Alyssum, balsam, cornflower |
| 5-6 years | Tomato, beans, peas | Amaranth, leftover |
| 6-7 years | Corn, beans, watermelon, melon, zucchini, cucumber, squash, pumpkin | Celosia |
* The table shows the shelf life of seeds without loss of germination. The period may vary depending on the variety and storage conditions.
Failure to follow storage recommendations can also reduce germination. Even if the “factory” moisture-proof packaging has been preserved, the seeds of some crops cannot be stored at very high or too high temperatures. low temperatures. The seeds are afraid of frost, but can easily survive it, losing their germination percentage.
III. Poor soil quality
The soil mixture directly affects germination. Despite the fact that many seed packets contain recommendations on the composition of the soil (or even list specific brands of mixtures), some gardeners stubbornly prepare the substrate themselves, the old-fashioned way. Most often, additional components (sand, sawdust, peat, ash, humus, fertilizers, etc.), which are not always useful when growing seedlings, are to blame for the low quality of garden soil. Preparing the soil yourself (freezing it on the balcony for the winter, steaming it, spilling it with a bitter solution of potassium permanganate) does not guarantee that all pathogenic microorganisms in the soil will die. The solution to the problem is to purchase a ready-made “sterile” soil mixture with a balanced set of elements. If you still plan to prepare the soil yourself, then for the prevention and treatment of fungal and bacterial diseases, we recommend spraying the soil with the biofungicide “Fitosporin-M”. By the way, there is no need to add fertilizers to the soil immediately before sowing seeds - in case of nutritional deficiency root system will develop faster and better. Feeding will be required only after seedlings appear.