It all started with a walk through the eBay website - I saw solar panels and got sick.

Disputes with friends about payback were funny... When buying a car, no one thinks about the return on investment. A car is like a mistress, prepare the amount for pleasure in advance. And here it’s quite the opposite, you spent money and they are still trying to recoup... In addition, I connected an incubator to the solar panels so they still justify their purpose, protecting your future farm from destruction. In general, having an incubator, you depend on many factors, it’s either a master or a layman. When I have time, I’ll write about homemade incubator. Well, okay, why talk about it, everyone has the right to choose.....!

After much waiting, the treasured box with thin, fragile records finally warms my hands and heart.

First of all, of course, the Internet... well, it’s not the gods who burn the pots. Someone else's experience is always useful. And then disappointment set in... As it turned out, about five people made the panels with their own hands, the rest were simply copied onto their websites, some of them, in order to be more original, copied from different developments. Well, God bless them, let this remain on the conscience of the page owners.

I decided to read the forums; the long discussions of theorists on “how to milk a cow” led to complete despondency. Discussions about how plates break due to heat, the difficulties of sealing, etc. I read it and spat on the whole thing. We will go our own way, by trial and error, relying on the experience of “colleagues”, why reinvent the wheel?

Let's set the task:

1) The panel should be made from available materials so as not to stretch your wallet, since the result is unknown.

2) The manufacturing process should not be labor-intensive.

Let's start making a solar panel:

The first thing we purchased was 2 glasses 86x66 cm for the future two panels.

The glass is simple, purchased from plastic window manufacturers. Or maybe not simple...

A long search for aluminum corners, based on experience already tested by “colleagues,” ended in nothing.

Therefore, the manufacturing process began sluggishly, with a feeling of long-term construction.

I won’t describe the process of soldering panels, since there is a lot of information about this on the Internet and even a video. I'll just leave my notes and comments.

The devil is not as scary as he is painted.

Despite the difficulties that are described on the forums, the element plates are soldered easily, both the front side and the back. Also, our Soviet POS-40 solder is quite suitable, in any case, I did not experience any difficulties. And of course, our dear rosin, where would we be without it... During soldering I didn’t break a single element, I think you’d have to be a complete idiot to break them on even glass.

The conductors that come with the panels are very convenient, firstly, they are flat, and secondly, they are tinned, which significantly reduces soldering time. Although it is quite possible to use ordinary wire, I conducted the experiment on spare plates and did not experience any difficulties in soldering. (in the photo there are remains of a flat wire)

It took me about 2 hours to solder 36 plates. Although I read on the forum that people solder for 2 days.

It is advisable to use a 40 W soldering iron. Since the plates easily dissipate heat, and this makes soldering difficult. The first attempts to solder with a 25 Watt soldering iron were tedious and sad.

Also, when soldering, it is advisable to optimally select the amount of flux (rosin). For a large excess of it prevents the tin from sticking to the plate. That’s why we had to practically tin the record, in general, it’s no big deal, everything can be fixed. (look closely at the photo you can see.)

Tin consumption is quite large.

Well, in the photo there are soldered elements, there is a jamb in the second row, one terminal is not soldered, but I noticed nothing important and corrected it.

The glass edging is made with double-sided tape, then a plastic film will be glued to this tape.

The tapes I used.

After soldering, start sealing (adhesive tape will help you).

Well, the plates are glued with tape and the corrected jamb.

Next, remove from the panel edging protective layer double sided tape and stick it on it plastic film with a margin at the edges. (I forgot to take a photo) Oh yes, we make slits in the tape for the outgoing wires. Well, don’t be stupid, you’ll understand what and when... We coat the edges of the glass, as well as the wire leads, corners, with silicone sealant.

And fold the film onto the outside.

A plastic frame was previously made. When installing plastic windows in a house, a plastic profile for the window sill is attached to the window with screws. I thought this part was too thin. So I removed it and made the window sill my own way. Because only 12 windows remained plastic profiles. So to speak, there is an abundance of material.

I glued the frame with a regular, old, Soviet iron. It’s a pity I didn’t film the process, but I think there’s nothing too incomprehensible here. I cut 2 sides at 45 degrees, heated them on the sole of the iron and glued them after installing them on flat angle. The photo shows the frame for the second panel.

Installing glass with elements and protective film into the frame

We cut off the excess film and seal the edges with silicone sealants.

We get this panel.

Yes, I forgot to write that in addition to the film, I glued guides to the frame that prevent the elements from falling if the tape comes off. The space between the elements and guides is filled polyurethane foam. This made it possible to press the elements more tightly to the glass.

Well, let's start testing.

Since I made one panel in advance, the result of one is known to me: Voltage 21 Volts. Short circuit current 3.4 Amperes. Charge current strength battery 40A. h 2.1 Ampere.

Unfortunately I didn't take any photos. It must be said that the current strength depends sharply on the illumination.

Now there are 2 batteries connected in parallel.

The weather at the time of production was cloudy, it was about 4 o'clock in the afternoon.

At first it upset me, and then it even made me happy. After all, these are the most average conditions for a battery, which means the result is more plausible than in bright sunshine. The sun did not shine through the clouds so brightly. I must say that the sun was shining a little from the side.

With this lighting, the short circuit current was 7.12 Amperes. Which I consider an excellent result.

No-load voltage 20.6 Volts. Well, it's stable at about 21 volts.

Battery charging current is 2.78 Ampere. With such lighting, this guarantees the battery charge.

Measurements showed that on a good sunny day the result will be better.

By that time, the weather was getting worse, the clouds had closed, the sun was completely shining, and I began to wonder what would show in this situation. It's almost evening twilight...

The sky looked like this, I specially removed the horizon line. However, on the battery glass itself you can see the sky as if in a mirror.

The voltage in this situation is 20.2 volts. As already mentioned 21st century. it's practically a constant.

Short circuit current 2.48A. In general, it’s great for such lighting! Almost equal to one battery in good sun.

Battery charging current is 1.85 Amperes. What can I say... Even at dusk the battery will be charged.

Conclusion: a solar battery has been built that is not inferior in characteristics industrial designs. Well, as for durability.....we'll see, time will tell.

Oh yes, the battery is charged through 40 A Schottky diodes. Well, what was found.

I also want to say about controllers. It all looks nice, but it's not worth the money spent on the controller.

If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, the circuits are very simple. Do it and enjoy making it.

Well, the wind blew up and the remaining 5 spare elements fell into an uncontrollable flight..... the result was fragments. Well, what can you do, carelessness must be punished. On the other hand... Where should they go?

We decided to make another socket from the fragments, 5 volts. It took 2 hours to make. The remaining materials came at just the right time. This is what happened.

Measurements were taken in the evening.

It must be said that in good lighting the short circuit current is more than 1 ampere.

The pieces are soldered in parallel and in series. The goal is to provide approximately the same area. After all, the current strength is equal to the smallest element. Therefore, when manufacturing, select elements according to the lighting area.

It's time to talk about the practical application of the solar panels I made.

In the spring I installed two manufactured panels on the roof, 8 meters high at an angle of 35 degrees, oriented to the southeast. This orientation was not chosen by chance, because it was noticed that in this latitude, in the summer, the sun rises at 4 am and by 6-7 o’clock it charges the batteries quite well with a current of 5-6 amperes, and this also applies to the evening. Each panel must have its own diode. In order to prevent elements from burning out when the power of the panels differs. And as a consequence, an unjustified reduction in the power of the panels.
The descent from a height was carried out with multi-core wire with a cross-section of 6 mm2 each core. In this way, it was possible to achieve minimal losses in the wires.

Old, barely alive batteries 150Ah, 75Ah, 55Ah, 60Ah were used as energy storage devices. All batteries are connected in parallel and, taking into account the loss of capacity, the total amount is about 100Ah.
There is no battery charge controller. Although I think installing a controller is necessary. I’m working on the controller circuit now. Since during the day the batteries begin to boil. Therefore, you have to dump excess energy every day by turning on unnecessary load. In my case, I turn on the bathhouse lighting. 100 W. Also, during the day, an LCD TV of approximately 105 W, a fan of 40 W, and in the evening an energy-saving light bulb of 20 W are added.

For those who like to carry out calculations, I will say: THEORY AND PRACTICE are not the same thing. Since such a “sandwich” works quite well for over 12 hours. At the same time, sometimes we charge phones from it. I have never reached the full discharge of the batteries. Which accordingly cancels out the calculations.

As a converter, a 600VA computer uninterruptible power supply (inverter) was used, slightly modified for free starting from batteries, which approximately corresponds to a load of 300W.
I also want to note that the batteries are charged even under a bright moon. In this case, the current is 0.5-1 Ampere, I think for the night this is not bad at all.

Of course, I would like to increase the load, but this requires a powerful inverter. I plan to make an inverter myself according to the diagram below. Since buying an inverter for crazy money is UNREASONABLE!

Living in the “Organic” style, such a popular idea in recent years, presupposes a harmonious “relationship” between a person and the environment. The stumbling block to any environmental approach is the use of minerals for energy.

Emissions of toxic substances and carbon dioxide into the atmosphere released during the combustion of fossil fuels are gradually killing the planet. Therefore, the concept of "green energy", which does not harm the environment, is basic basis many new energy technologies. One of these areas for obtaining environmentally friendly energy is the technology of converting sunlight into electric current. Yes, that’s right, we will talk about solar panels and the possibility of installing autonomous energy supply systems in a country house.

At the moment, industrial power plants based on solar panels, used for the complete energy and heat supply of a cottage, cost at least 15-20 thousand dollars with a guaranteed service life of about 25 years. The cost of any helium system in recalculation of the ratio of the guaranteed service life to the average annual cost of utility maintenance of a country house is quite high: firstly, today the average cost of solar energy is comparable to the purchase of energy resources from central power grids, and secondly, one-time capital investments are required to install the system .

It is usually customary to separate solar systems intended for heat and energy supply. In the first case, technology is used solar collector, in the second - the photoelectric effect for generating electric current in solar panels. We want to talk about the possibility of making solar panels yourself.

The technology for manually assembling a solar energy system is quite simple and affordable. Almost every Russian can assemble individual energy systems with high efficiency at relatively low costs. It's profitable, affordable and even fashionable.

Selecting solar cells for a solar panel

When starting to manufacture a solar system, you need to pay attention that with individual assembly there is no need for a one-time installation of a fully functional system; it can be expanded gradually. If the first experience was successful, then it makes sense to expand the functionality of the solar system.

At its core, a solar battery is a generator that operates on the basis of the photovoltaic effect and converts solar energy into electrical energy. Quanta of light striking a silicon wafer knock an electron out of the last atomic orbit of silicon. This effect creates a sufficient number of free electrons to form a flow of electric current.

Before assembling the battery, you need to decide on the type of photoelectric converter, namely: monocrystalline, polycrystalline and amorphous. To assemble a solar battery yourself, choose commercially available monocrystalline and polycrystalline solar modules.

Above: Monocrystalline modules without soldered contacts. Bottom: Polycrystalline modules with soldered contacts

Panels based on polycrystalline silicon have a fairly low efficiency (7-9%), but this disadvantage is offset by the fact that polycrystals practically do not reduce power in cloudy and cloudy weather; the guaranteed durability of such elements is about 10 years. Panels based on monocrystalline silicon have an efficiency of about 13% with a service life of about 25 years, but these elements greatly reduce power in the absence of direct sunlight. Efficiency indicators of silicon crystals from different manufacturers may vary significantly. According to work practice solar power plants V field conditions we can talk about a service life of monocrystalline modules of more than 30 years, and for polycrystalline modules - more than 20 years. Moreover, over the entire period of operation, the power loss for silicon mono- and polycrystalline cells is no more than 10%, while for thin-film amorphous batteries the power decreases by 10-40% in the first two years.

Evergreen Solar Cells with contacts in a set of 300 pcs.

At the eBay auction you can purchase a Solar Cells kit for assembling a solar battery of 36 and 72 solar cells. Such sets are also available for sale in Russia. As a rule, for self-assembly of solar panels, B-type solar modules are used, that is, modules rejected in industrial production. These modules do not lose their performance characteristics and are much cheaper. Some suppliers offer solar modules on a fiberglass board, which implies high level tightness of elements, and, accordingly, reliability.

Name	Characteristics	Cost, $
Everbright Solar Cells (Ebay) no contacts	polycrystalline, set - 36 pcs., 81x150 mm, 1.75 W (0.5 V), 3A, efficiency (%) - 13 in a set with diodes and acid for soldering in a pencil	$46.00 $8.95shipping
Solar Cells (USA new)	monocrystalline, 156x156 mm, 81x150 mm, 4W (0.5 V), 8A, efficiency (%) - 16.7-17.9	$7.50
	monocrystalline, 153x138 mm, U cold. stroke - 21.6V, I short. deputy - 94 mA, P - 1.53W, efficiency (%) - 13	$15.50
Solar Cells on a fiberglass board	polycrystalline, 116x116 mm, U cold. stroke - 7.2V, I short. deputy - 275 mA., P - 1.5W, efficiency (%) - 10	$14.50
		$87.12 $9.25 shipping
Solar Cells (Ebay) without contacts	polycrystalline, set - 72 pcs., 81x150 mm 1.8W	$56.11 $9.25 shipping
Solar Cells (Ebay) with contacts	monocrystalline, set - 40 pcs., 152x152 mm	$87.25 $14.99 shipping

Development of a helium energy system project

The design of a future solar system largely depends on the method of its installation and installation. Solar panels should be installed at an angle to ensure direct sunlight at right angles. The performance of a solar panel largely depends on the intensity of the light energy, as well as the angle of incidence of the sun's rays. The placement of the solar battery relative to the sun and the angle of inclination depend on the geographical location of the helium system and the time of year.

From top to bottom: Monocrystalline solar panels (80 watts each) at the dacha are installed almost vertically (winter). Monocrystalline solar panels in the country have a smaller angle (spring). Mechanical system for controlling the angle of the solar battery.

Industrial solar systems are often equipped with sensors that ensure the rotational movement of the solar panel in the direction of movement of the sun's rays, as well as solar concentrator mirrors. In individual systems, such elements significantly complicate and increase the cost of the system, and therefore are not used. The simplest one can be used mechanical system tilt angle control. IN winter time solar panels should be installed almost vertically; this also protects the panel from snow accumulation and icing of the structure.

Scheme for calculating the angle of inclination of a solar panel depending on the time of year

Solar panels are installed on the sunny side of the building to provide the maximum amount of solar energy available during daylight hours. Depending on your geographic location and solstice level, the battery angle that is most suitable for your location is calculated.

If the design becomes more complex, it is possible to create a system for controlling the angle of inclination of the solar battery depending on the time of year and the angle of rotation of the panel depending on the time of day. The energy efficiency of such a system will be higher.

When designing a solar system that will be installed on the roof of a house, it is necessary to find out whether roof structure maintain the required weight. Independent development of the project involves calculating the roof load taking into account the weight of the snow cover in winter.

Selecting the optimal static tilt angle for a monocrystalline roof solar system

For the manufacture of solar panels, you can choose different materials based on specific gravity and other characteristics. When choosing construction materials, it is necessary to take into account the maximum permissible temperature heating the solar cell, since the temperature of the solar module operating at full power should not exceed 250C. When the peak temperature is exceeded, the solar module sharply loses its ability to convert sunlight into electric current. Ready-made solar systems for individual use, as a rule, do not require cooling of solar cells. Do-it-yourself manufacturing may involve cooling the solar system or controlling the angle of the solar panel to ensure the functional temperature of the module, as well as choosing an appropriate transparent material that absorbs IR radiation.

Proper design of the solar system allows you to provide the required power of the solar battery, which will be close to the nominal one. When calculating a structure, it must be taken into account that elements of the same type give the same stress, regardless of the size of the elements. Moreover, the current strength of large-sized elements will be greater, but the battery will also be much heavier. To manufacture a solar system, solar modules of the same size are always taken, since the maximum current will be limited by the maximum current of the small element.

Calculations show that on average, on a clear sunny day, no more than 120 W of power can be obtained from 1 m of solar panel. Such power will not even power a computer. A 10 m system provides more than 1 kW of energy and can power basic household appliances: lamps, TV, computer. For a family of 3-4 people, about 200-300 kW per month is needed, so a solar system installed on the south side, 20 m in size, can fully meet the family's energy needs.

If we consider the average statistical data on the power supply of an individual residential building, then: daily energy consumption is 3 kWh, solar radiation from spring to autumn is 4 kWh/m per day, peak power consumption is 3 kW (when turned on). washing machine, refrigerator, iron and electric kettle). In order to optimize energy consumption for lighting inside the house, it is important to use AC lamps with low energy consumption - LED and fluorescent.

Making a solar battery frame

An aluminum corner is used as the frame of the solar battery. At the eBay auction you can purchase ready-made frames for solar panels. The transparent coating is selected at will, based on the characteristics that are necessary for a given design.

Solar panel frame kit with glass, starting at $33

When choosing a transparent protective material, you can also focus on the following material characteristics:

Material	Refractive index	Light transmittance, %	Specific gravity g/cm 3	Sheet size, mm	Thickness, mm	Cost, rub./m2
Air	1,0002926	—	—	—	—	—
Glass	1,43-2,17	92-99	3,168	—	—	—
Plexiglas	1,51	92-93	1,19	3040x2040	3	960.00
Polycarbonate	1,59	up to 92	0,198	3050 x2050	2	600.00
Plexiglass	1,491	92	1,19	2050x1500	11	640.00
Mineral glass	1,52-1,9	98	1,40	—	—	—

If we consider the refractive index of light as a criterion for choosing a material. Plexiglas has the lowest refractive index; a cheaper option for transparent material is domestic plexiglass, and polycarbonate is less suitable. Polycarbonate with an anti-condensation coating is available for sale; this material also provides a high level of thermal protection. When choosing transparent materials based on specific gravity and ability to absorb the IR spectrum, polycarbonate will be the best. The best transparent materials for solar panels include those with high light transmittance.

When manufacturing a solar battery, it is important to choose transparent materials that do not transmit the IR spectrum and, thus, reduce the heating of silicon elements, which lose their power at temperatures above 250C. In industry, special glasses with a metal oxide coating are used. The ideal glass for solar panels is considered to be a material that transmits the entire spectrum except the infrared range.

Diagram of absorption of UV and IR radiation by various glasses.
a) ordinary glass, b) glass with IR absorption, c) duplex with heat-absorbing and ordinary glass.

Maximum absorption of the IR spectrum will be provided by protective silicate glass with iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3), but it has a greenish tint. The IR spectrum is well absorbed by any mineral glass with the exception of quartz; plexiglass and plexiglass belong to the class of organic glasses. Mineral glass is more resistant to surface damage, but is very expensive and unavailable. For solar panels, special anti-reflective, ultra-transparent glass is also used, transmitting up to 98% of the spectrum. This glass also assumes absorption of most of the IR spectrum.

The optimal choice of optical and spectral characteristics of glass significantly increases the photoconversion efficiency of the solar panel.

Solar panel in a plexiglass case

Many solar panel workshops recommend using plexiglass for the front and back panels. This allows contact inspection. However, a plexiglass structure can hardly be called completely sealed, capable of ensuring uninterrupted operation of the panel for 20 years of operation.

Installation of the solar battery housing

The master class shows how to make a solar panel from 36 polycrystalline solar cells measuring 81x150 mm. Based on these dimensions, you can calculate the size of the future solar battery. When calculating sizes, it is important to do between elements short distance, which will take into account changes in the size of the base under atmospheric influence, that is, there should be 3-5 mm between the elements. The resulting workpiece size should be 835x690 mm with a corner width of 35 mm.

	Homemade solar cell made using aluminum profile, is most similar to a factory-made solar panel. This ensures a high degree of tightness and structural strength.
	For manufacturing, an aluminum corner is taken, and frame blanks of 835x690 mm are made. To allow fastening of hardware, holes should be made in the frame.
	On inner part silicone sealant is applied twice to the corner.
	Be sure to make sure there are no empty spaces. The tightness and durability of the battery depends on the quality of application of the sealant.
	Next, a transparent sheet of the selected material is placed in the frame: polycarbonate, plexiglass, plexiglass, anti-reflective glass. It is important to let the silicone dry outdoors, otherwise the evaporation will create a film on the elements.
	The glass must be carefully pressed and fixed.
	To securely attach the protective glass, you will need hardware. You need to secure 4 corners of the frame and place two hardware around the perimeter on the long side of the frame and one hardware on the short side.
	The hardware is fixed with screws.
	The screws are tightened tightly using a screwdriver.
	The solar battery frame is ready. Before attaching solar cells, it is necessary to clean the glass from dust.

Selection and soldering of solar cells

Currently, the eBay auction offers a huge range of products for making solar panels yourself.

Solar Cells kit includes a set of 36 polycrystalline silicon cells, cell leads and busbars, Schottke diodes and a soldering acid pen

Since a solar battery made by yourself is almost 4 times cheaper than a ready-made one, self-production- This is a significant cost savings. You can buy solar cells on eBay that have defects but still remain functional, so the cost of a solar panel can be reduced significantly if you can donate extra appearance batteries.

Damaged photocells do not lose their functionality

For your first experience, it is better to purchase kits for making solar panels; solar cells with soldered conductors are available for sale. Soldering contacts is a rather complex process, the complexity of which is compounded by the fragility of solar cells.

If you purchased silicon elements without conductors, you must first solder the contacts.

	This is what a polycrystalline silicon cell looks like without conductors.
	The conductors are cut using a cardboard blank.
	It is necessary to carefully place the conductor on the photocell.
	Apply soldering acid and solder to the soldering area. For convenience, the conductor is fixed on one side with a heavy object.
	In this position, it is necessary to carefully solder the conductor to the photocell. While soldering, do not press on the crystal because it is very fragile.

Soldering elements is quite a painstaking job. If you cannot get a normal connection, you need to repeat the work. According to standards, silver coating on a conductor must withstand 3 soldering cycles under acceptable thermal conditions, but in practice you are faced with the fact that the coating is destroyed. The destruction of silver plating occurs due to the use of soldering irons with unregulated power (65 W), this can be avoided if you lower the power as follows - you need to turn on a socket with a 100 W light bulb in series with the soldering iron. The power rating of a non-regulated soldering iron is too high for soldering silicon contacts.

Even if conductor sellers claim that there is solder on the connector, it is better to apply it additionally. When soldering, try to handle the elements carefully; with minimal force they will burst; Do not stack the elements in a stack; the weight may cause the lower elements to crack.

Assembling and soldering a solar battery

At the first self-assembly It is better to use a marking substrate for the solar battery, which will help position the elements exactly at a certain distance from each other (5 mm).

Marking substrate for solar battery cells

The base is made of a sheet of plywood with corner markings. After soldering, a piece is attached to each element on the reverse side mounting tape, just press the back panel to the tape, and all the elements are transferred.

Mounting tape used for mounting on the back of the solar cell

With this type of fastening, the elements themselves are not additionally sealed; they can expand freely under the influence of temperature, this will not damage the solar battery or break the contacts and elements. Only the connecting parts of the structure can be sealed. This type of fastening is more suitable for prototypes, but can hardly guarantee long-term operation in the field.

The sequential battery assembly plan looks like this:

	Place the elements on a glass surface. There must be a distance between the elements, which allows for free changes in size without damaging the structure. The elements must be pressed with weights.
	We carry out soldering according to the electrical diagram below. “Positive” current-carrying paths are located on the front side of the elements, “negative” ones - on the back side. Before soldering, you need to apply flux and solder, then carefully solder the silver contacts.
	All solar cells are connected using this principle.
	The contacts of the outer elements are output to the bus, respectively, to “plus” and “minus”. The bus uses the wider silver conductor found in the Solar Cells kit. We also recommend that you remove the “middle” point; with its help, two additional shunt diodes are installed.
	The terminal is also installed on the outside of the frame.
	This is what the diagram of connecting elements looks like without a displayed midpoint.
	This is what the terminal strip looks like with the “middle” point displayed. The “middle” point allows you to install a shunt diode on each half of the battery, which will prevent the battery from discharging when the lighting decreases or one half is darkened.
	The photo shows a bypass diode on the "positive" output, it resists the discharge of batteries through the battery at night and the discharge of other batteries during partial darkness. Most often, Schottke diodes are used as shunt diodes. They provide less loss in the total power of the electrical circuit. Can be used as current carrying wires speaker cable in silicone insulation. For isolation, you can use tubes from under the drip. All wires must be firmly fixed with silicone.
	The elements can be connected in series (see photo), and not through a common bus, then the 2nd and 4th rows must be rotated 1800 relative to the 1st row.

The main problems in assembling a solar panel are related to the quality of the soldering of the contacts, so experts suggest testing it before sealing the panel.

Panel testing before sealing, mains voltage 14 volts, peak power 65 W

Testing can be done after soldering each group of elements. If you pay attention to the photos in the master class, then the part of the table under the solar elements is cut out. This was done intentionally to determine the functionality of the electrical network after soldering the contacts.

Sealing the solar panel

Sealing solar panels when making them yourself is the most controversial issue among experts. On the one hand, sealing panels is necessary to increase durability; it is always used when industrial production. For sealing, foreign experts recommend using the epoxy compound “Sylgard 184”, which gives a transparent polymerized highly elastic surface. The cost of “Sylgard 184” on eBay is about $40.

Sealant with a high degree of elasticity “Sylgard 184”

On the other hand, if you don't want to bear additional costs, it is quite possible to use silicone sealant. However, in this case, you should not completely fill the elements to avoid their possible damage during operation. In this case, the elements can be attached to the back panel using silicone and only the edges of the structure can be sealed. It is difficult to say how effective such sealing is, but we do not recommend using non-recommended waterproofing mastics; the probability of contacts and elements breaking is very high.

	Before starting sealing, it is necessary to prepare the Sylgard 184 mixture.
	First, the joints of the elements are filled. The mixture must set to secure the elements to the glass.
	After fixing the elements, a continuous polymerizing layer of elastic sealant is made; it can be distributed using a brush.
	This is what the surface looks like after applying the sealant. The sealing layer must dry. After complete drying, you can cover the solar panel with the back panel.
	This is what the front side of a homemade solar panel looks like after sealing.

House power supply diagram

Home power supply systems using solar panels are usually called photovoltaic systems, that is, systems that generate energy using the photoelectric effect. For individual residential buildings, three photovoltaic systems are considered: an autonomous energy supply system, a hybrid battery-grid photovoltaic system, a batteryless photovoltaic system connected to central system energy supply.

Each of the systems has its own purpose and advantages, but most often in residential buildings photovoltaic systems with backup batteries and connection to a centralized power grid are used. The power supply to the electrical network is carried out using solar panels, in the dark from batteries, and when they are discharged - from the central power grid. In remote areas where there is no central network, liquid fuel generators are used as a backup source of energy supply.

A more economical alternative to a hybrid battery-grid power system would be a batteryless solar system connected to the central grid. Electricity is supplied from solar panels, and at night the network is powered from the central network. Such a network is more applicable for institutions, because in residential buildings most of the energy is consumed in the evening.

Diagrams of three types of photovoltaic systems

Let's look at a typical battery-grid photovoltaic system installation. Solar panels, which are connected through a junction box, act as an electricity generator. Next, a solar charge controller is installed in the network to avoid short circuits during peak load. Electricity is accumulated in backup batteries and is also supplied through an inverter to consumers: lighting, household appliances, electric stoves, and possibly used to heat water. To install a heating system, it is more effective to use solar collectors, which belong to alternative solar technology.

Hybrid battery-grid photovoltaic system with alternating current

There are two types of power grids used in photovoltaic systems: DC and AC. The use of an alternating current network allows you to place electrical consumers at a distance exceeding 10-15 m, as well as provide a conditionally unlimited network load.

For a private residential building, the following components of a photovoltaic system are usually used:

• the total power of solar panels should be 1000 W, they will provide a generation of about 5 kWh;
• batteries with a total capacity of 800 A/h at a voltage of 12 V;
• the inverter must have a rated power of 3 kW with a peak load of up to 6 kW, input voltage 24-48 V;
• solar discharge controller 40-50 A at a voltage of 24 V;
• source uninterruptible power supply to provide a short-term charge with a current of up to 150 A.

Thus, for a photovoltaic power supply system you will need 15 panels with 36 elements, an example of assembly of which is given in the master class. Each panel provides a total power of 65 watts. Solar batteries based on monocrystals will be more powerful. For example, a solar panel of 40 monocrystals has a peak power of 160 W, but such panels are sensitive to cloudy weather. In this case, solar panels based on polycrystalline modules are optimal for use in the northern part of Russia.

The basic principle of operation of the device is that it converts solar energy into electricity using photocells. The technology involves combining such elements into one complex. After the energy has been processed, the electricity flows into special batteries.

In this article we will look at why people are increasingly installing solar panels with their own hands.

A homemade solar battery is a progressive method of saving, because you will not only receive electricity (solar cells will provide this), but you will also not spend enormous sums on purchasing batteries.

The whole process is not complicated; the main thing here is a clear sequence of actions. We will help you with this, let's get started.

How much electricity you ultimately receive will depend on the size of your solar module.

How does this work

First, let's get acquainted with the subtleties that it has process. Photodiodes are mounted on a silicon (or copper) wafer. When light hits them, a photo-emf is generated at their outputs. In order to make a solar battery with your own hands, you need to combine such plates (their combination is called a module).

The approximate value of the energy generated from one such plate is 0.5 - 0.55 V. You should not set too high goals, because to get 220 volts you will need a battery of impressive proportions. A more realistic goal is to get 12-24 volts. These will be processed by other solar cells.

Such power can fill 12 batteries with electricity. The main elements that the design has:

1. solar panel that will generate energy
2. energy storage batteries
3. inverter for converting low voltage energy into standard

It is necessary to create homemade solar panels based on calculations of the energy required for a particular room. For each building the value will be individual. First of all, calculate how many batteries you will need for your purposes. The number of batteries depends on the size of the solar panel.

In order to create a high-quality solar battery at home, you will need to purchase an inverter. This important structural element is not manufactured independently. When purchasing, be guided by the needs of your premises (minimum recommended value 1-2 kW).

Selection of photocells

The solar battery device on the modern market is presented in the form of two options - the solar battery can be assembled from monocrystalline silicon and polycrystalline silicon:

• the first ones have an efficiency of 13% (they are characterized by low efficiency when it is cloudy outside);
• the latter have lower efficiency - 9%, but they perform well in bad weather conditions.

In accordance with the advice of experts, in order to assemble a solar battery with your own hands, the second option will be sufficient.

The solar cells that you will use to make your own solar panels must be purchased in the same size. Otherwise, the electricity they will generate will be limited to the performance of the smallest cell.

Other materials

To get homemade solar panels you will need:

1. frame (it can be made of wood, aluminum)
2. photocells
3. substrate made according to fiberboard standards
4. glass (plexiglass is used as an alternative)
5. conductors
6. diodes

Choosing an installation location

When choosing a location when assembling solar panels with your own hands, you need to be guided by the main principle - the sun's rays should hit the structure as perpendicularly as possible.

The most popular location for solar cells is the roof of the room. In general, it is recommended to install as high as possible. As alternative option serve as places where the rays hit most actively.

Installation process

Frame

In the question of how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands, the first thing you need to start with is assembling the frame. It will provide solar cells with the necessary level of protection. For this you will need:

1. corners made of aluminum (30x30)
2. wooden blocks are used as an alternative

The first option is more common and effective. The tool you will need is a file. On one of the shelves you need to use it to remove the chamfer. This should be done at an angle of 45 degrees. Using the same angle of inclination as a basis, cut off the second shelf.

When the frame elements are processed, they are twisted using squares. The material of the angles must match the material of the frame.

After this it comes final stage— a fully finished frame is complemented protective glass. It is mounted using silicone.

Soldering plates

Making a solar battery with your own hands requires special attention to this stage. The first thing production technology requires is understanding basic principle when soldering:

• series connection will increase the voltage;
• parallel connection increases the current.

The solar cell circuit requires a gap of 5 mm when installing silicon wafers on glass. It is strictly recommended to observe this value, because it is necessary in order to suppress the thermal expansion of parts of the structure when heated.

The converters are easy to understand, because their design involves only two tracks (plus and minus). Elements for solar panels must be connected in series into one chain.

It is recommended not to limit yourself to just the required number of panels. The process of manufacturing solar panels can bring unexpected surprises - damage to the panels during installation (they are fragile and this is not so difficult to do even with all the care). For this reason, you should stock up on a few spare panels.

After completing this work, all that remains is to connect the conductors to the common bus.

Now you need to understand how to test the solar battery and the voltage it will produce at the output. A multimeter is used for these purposes. Optimal indicator which a home-made battery should have is 18-19 volts.

Assembling the panel

A homemade solar panel is a particularly important stage at this stage of production. After work with the case is completed, it is necessary to place the converters that were previously soldered into it. Next, to assemble the solar battery, perform the following steps:

• silicone is applied to the silicon elements (in the center)
• To ensure reliable fixation, cover the substrate (fibreboard) on top
• Next you need to close the structure with a lid
• sealing joints (use sealant or silicone as an alternative)

When all the steps have been completed and the panel has taken its final form, it must be mounted on a frame or holder.

transistor battery

A do-it-yourself solar battery is assembled from scrap materials using diodes and transistors from foil.

If you decide to make a design using a transistor, pay attention exclusively to these types - KT, P. This will be the most optimal choice because semiconductors are ideal for the production of electrical energy.

After you decide on the right amount radio components, the metal cover is removed from them. Holding the radio component in a vice, carefully cut off top part. For these purposes a hacksaw will do on metal. The plate located in the inner part will serve as a photocell.

Next steps:

1. assembly must take place on a surface that has dielectric properties
2. we use a collector junction (it is characterized by the largest potential difference in contrast to the base and emitter)
3. The transistor is soldered into a separate series circuit
4. chains must be connected in parallel

Indicators of the output voltage from one transistor using the specified semiconductors:

• 0.35 volts
• current during short circuit is 0.25 µA

Thus, from available materials you can create effective panels with your own hands.

We use diodes

At correct assembly, a solar battery made of diodes for a private home or cottage can also be very effective. The voltage generation indicators of one diode are 350 mV.

To correctly use a diode with your own hands in such a design, decide in advance on the optimal number of radio components. This production of solar panels requires placing them in a container for treatment with acetone before starting work.

Other solvents can be used as an alternative to acetone. You need to leave the radio components in this position for at least a couple of hours.

Such solar panels for the home are made using the following steps:

1. We make markings on the plate that will indicate the places for soldering the power supply elements
2. soaking allows without special labor remove paint
3. it is necessary to bend the positive contact (for these purposes we use a multimeter)

Manufacturing of solar panels of this type For maximum efficiency in obtaining voltage, it requires vertical soldering of diodes. Practice confirms that this is the most optimal position for the crystal.

Solar battery made of foil

This technique is distinguished by much lower power indicators compared to the previous ones. Foil solar cells are produced in accordance with clear instructions - to start with, copper foil (45 sq.m.) is useful. You need to remove all the fat from it:

• use soap solution
• wash your hands thoroughly to prevent the formation of grease stains

The next stage of processing is the elimination of corrosion and the protective oxide film that is located on the cutting plane. This is easy to do using regular sandpaper.

The sheet of foil must be heated to the point where red-orange spots begin to appear. The end of this process can be considered the surface adopting a black color.

This indicates the formation of copper oxide. It's best to do this on a burner. electric stove. The minimum power indicator should be 1.1 kW.

In order to obtain an oxide film with optimal thickness, from the moment the oxide forms, the sheet needs to be heated for another half hour. After this frying, you can proceed to further steps:

1. oxide peels off; all of its residue is removed by washing with ordinary water
2. any deformation of the sheet, bending, or attempts to remove oxide by mechanical means are excluded
3. cut out another sheet, based on the parameters of the previous one
4. cut the throat plastic bottle(from 2 to 5 l.)
5. We place two pieces of foil in it, and then secure them
6. any contact of these pieces is excluded
7. terminal with a minus for the processed piece, with a plus for the other
8. the jar is filled with a special solution

The top edge should be separated from the electrodes by 2.5 cm. To prepare the mixture you will need a few tablespoons of salt. Its quantity should be proportional to the volume of the container.

A solar battery made of transistors, a solar battery made of LEDs and other varieties of them have proven their effectiveness over years of practice. A solar-powered fan will also be productive.

The use of silicon and copper types is increasingly being used by our compatriots. Now you know what equipment is needed for the production of solar panels, how to independently produce the necessary solar cell, and accurately calculate the cross-section.

With the help of the acquired knowledge, you can easily make solar panels yourself, use a solar panel for your home and garden extremely effectively - see for yourself!

This section contains experience different people for making solar panels at home. Various approaches, designs and manufacturing methods. Trials and errors, conclusions and opinions. Over time, other information on the topic will be added. For example, about controllers, circuits and methods for connecting and charging batteries, various ways to organize and optimize energy consumption and other things that may be useful in matters of using solar energy.

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DIY solar panel, sealing elements with epoxy resin

Fabrication of two solar panels using transparent optical resin. The base is ordinary window glass, the frame is made of aluminum, the glass is glued with silicone sealant. The result is durable and cheap panels with completely sealed elements.

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Homemade panel on plexiglass

The elements in this solar panel are sandwiched between two sheets of plexiglass. The back is 4mm, and the front sheet is 2mm. The panel was assembled using mounting tape; the elements inside are held on by small pieces of this tape; the plexiglass is also glued together around the perimeter with double-sided tape.

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Sealing elements with conventional silicone sealant

A small photo report on the manufacture of a solar panel and sealing the elements using ordinary cheap silicone sealant. The panel is made with a slightly higher voltage than usual; instead of 36 elements, the panel has four rows of 12 elements for a total of 48 elements.

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Homemade solar panel filled with epoxy resin

A homemade solar panel (more precisely, 3 pieces) from a photo of electrical modules 125*125*150, purchased from the OJSC "PHMZ" enterprise. The peculiarity of this solar panel is that the elements are filled with ordinary epoxy resin. The structure on which the panels are attached is portable and can be rotated all 360 degrees, though it turned out to be heavy, but quite reliable.

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Electrification of a house in a settlement using homemade solar panels

The first part of a large photo story about autonomous power supply to a house in a settlement based on homemade solar panels made from wooden frames. Making the very first panel from elements on an old window frame and its first tests.

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Second part, making a new panel

The second panel was made on a large glass where two sets for solar cells were placed at once. The elements were also attached to the glass using tape. The finished glass with soldered elements was inserted into wooden box, but first the film was spread over the box and the glass was inserted along with it, this is to protect the back side from moisture.

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Part 3, House Wiring and System Upgrades

Now that it has become clear that the system is working, by the way, it now consists of 7 panels, things have come to internal wiring around the house. For the batteries, a shelf was made under the ceiling to reduce the length of the wire from the panels, and the wire itself was thickened to reduce losses.

In the modern world it is difficult to imagine existence without electrical energy. Lighting, heating, communications and other joys comfortable life directly depend on it. This forces us to look for alternative and independent sources, one of which is the sun. This area of ​​energy is not yet very developed, and industrial installations they are not cheap. The solution is to make solar panels yourself.

What is a solar battery

A solar battery is a panel consisting of interconnected photocells. It directly converts solar energy into electrical current. Depending on the design of the system, electrical energy is accumulated or immediately used to power buildings, mechanisms and devices.

A solar battery consists of interconnected photocells

Almost everyone used the simplest photocells. They are built into calculators, flashlights, batteries for recharging electronic gadgets, and garden lanterns. But the use is not limited to this. There are electric cars that charge from the sun; in space this is one of the main sources of energy.

In countries with a large number sunny days batteries are installed on the roofs of houses and are used for heating and water heating. This type is called collectors; they convert the sun's energy into heat.

Often, entire cities and towns are supplied with electricity only through this type of energy. Power plants powered by solar radiation are being built. They are especially widespread in the USA, Japan and Germany.

Device

The solar battery is based on the phenomenon of the photoelectric effect, discovered in the twentieth century by A. Einstein. It turned out that in some substances, under the influence of sunlight or other substances, charged particles are detached. This discovery led to the creation of the first solar module in 1953.

The materials used to make the elements are semiconductors - combined plates of two materials with different conductivities. Most often, polycrystalline or monocrystalline silicon with various additives is used for their manufacture.

Under the influence of sunlight, an excess of electrons appears in one layer, and a deficiency in the other. “Extra” electrons move into the region with their deficiency, this process has received name р-n transition.

A solar cell consists of two semiconductor layers with different conductivities

Between the materials that form an excess and deficiency of electrons, a barrier layer is placed that prevents the transition. This is necessary to ensure that current occurs only when there is a source of energy consumption.

Photons of light incident on the surface knock out electrons and supply them with the necessary energy to overcome the barrier layer. Negative electrons move from the p-conductor to the n-conductor, and positive electrons travel the other way.

Due to the different conductivities of semiconductor materials, it is possible to create a directed movement of electrons. This creates an electric current.

The elements are connected in series to each other, forming a panel of larger or smaller area, which is called a battery. Such batteries can be directly connected to the source of consumption. But since solar activity changes during the day, and stops altogether at night; they use batteries that accumulate energy during the absence of sunlight.

The necessary component in this case is the controller. It serves to monitor battery charging and turns off the battery when fully charged.

The current produced by a solar battery is constant and must be converted to alternating current to be used. An inverter is used for this.

Because everything electrical appliances, consuming energy, are designed for a certain voltage; a stabilizer is needed in the system to provide the required values.

Additional devices are installed between the solar module and the consumer

Only if all these components are present can you obtain functional system, supplying energy to consumers and not threatening to disable them.

Types of elements for modules

There are three main types of solar panels: polycrystalline, monocrystalline and thin-film. Most often, all three types are made from silicon with various additives. Cadmium telluride and copper-cadmium selenide are also used, especially for the production of film panels. These additives help increase cell efficiency by 5-10%.

Crystalline

The most popular are monocrystalline. They are made from single crystals and have a uniform structure. Such plates have the shape of a polygon or rectangle with cut corners.

The monocrystalline cell has the shape of a rectangle with beveled corners

A battery assembled from monocrystalline cells has greater performance compared to other types, its efficiency is 13%. It is light and compact, is not afraid of slight bending, can be installed on an uneven surface, and has a service life of 30 years.

The disadvantages include a significant reduction in power during cloudy conditions, up to a complete cessation of energy production. The same happens when it gets dark; the battery will not work at night.

The polycrystalline cell has the shape of a rectangle, which allows you to assemble the panel without gaps

Polycrystalline are produced by casting, have a rectangular or square shape and a heterogeneous structure. Their efficiency is lower than monocrystalline ones, the efficiency is only 7-9%, but the drop in output during cloudiness, dust or twilight is insignificant.

Therefore, they are used in the device street lighting, they are more often used by homemade products. The cost of such wafers is lower than single crystals, the service life is 20 years.

Film

Tocfilm or flexible elements are made from an amorphous form of silicon. The flexibility of the panels makes them mobile; by rolling them up you can take them with you when traveling and have an independent source of energy anywhere. The same property allows them to be mounted on curved surfaces.

The film battery is made of amorphous silicon

In terms of efficiency, film panels are two times inferior to crystalline ones; to produce the same amount, double the battery area is required. And the film is no different in durability - in the first 2 years, their effectiveness drops by 20-40%.

But when it is cloudy or dark, energy production is reduced by only 10-15%. Their relative cheapness can be considered an undoubted advantage.

What can you make a solar panel from at home?

Despite all the advantages of batteries industrial production, their main disadvantage is their high price. This trouble can be avoided by making a simple panel with your own hands from scrap materials.

From diodes

A diode is a crystal in a plastic case that acts as a lens. It concentrates the sun's rays on a conductor, resulting in an electric current. By connecting a large number of diodes together, we get a solar battery. You can use cardboard as a board.

The problem is that the power of the energy received is small; to generate a sufficient amount you will need a huge number of diodes. In terms of financial and labor costs, such a battery is much superior to the factory one, and in terms of power it is much inferior to it.

In addition, production drops sharply when illumination decreases. And the diodes themselves behave incorrectly - spontaneous glow often occurs. That is, the diodes themselves consume the energy produced. The conclusion suggests itself: ineffective.

From transistors

As in diodes, the main element of the transistor is the crystal. But it is contained in metal case, does not allow sunlight to pass through. To make a battery, the housing cover is cut off with a hacksaw.

A small power battery can be assembled from transistors

Then the elements are attached to a plate made of textolite or other material suitable for the role of a board and connected to each other. In this way, you can assemble a battery whose energy is sufficient to operate a flashlight or radio, but you should not expect much power from such a device.

But it is quite suitable as a low-power camping energy source. Especially if you are fascinated by the creation process itself and the practical benefits of the result are not very important.

Craftsmen suggest using CDs and even copper plates as photocells. It’s easy to make a portable phone charger from photocells from garden lanterns.

The best solution would be to buy ready-made plates. Some online sites sell modules with minor manufacturing defects. reasonable price, they are quite suitable for use.

Rational placement of batteries

The placement of the modules greatly determines how much energy the system will produce. The more rays that hit the photocells, the more energy they produce. For an optimal location, the following conditions must be met:

Important! The battery current is determined by the performance of the weakest element. Even a small shadow on one module can reduce system performance by 10 to 50%.

How to calculate the required power

Before you begin assembling the battery, you need to determine the required power. The number of cells purchased and total area finished batteries.

The system can be either autonomous (supplying the house with electricity on its own) or combined, combining the energy of the sun and a traditional source.

The calculation consists of three steps:

1. Find out the total power consumption.
2. Determine the sufficient capacity of the battery and the power of the inverter.
3. Calculate required quantity cells based on insolation data in your region.

Power consumption

For autonomous system You can determine it by your electric meter. Divide the total amount of energy consumed per month by the number of days and get the average daily consumption.

If only some of the devices will be powered from the battery, find out their power from the passport or markings on the device. Multiply the resulting values ​​by the number of hours of work per day. By adding up the obtained values ​​for all devices, you get the average consumption per day.

AB capacity (rechargeable battery) and inverter power

AB for solar systems must withstand a large number of discharge and discharge cycles, have low self-discharge, withstand high charging current, operate at high and low temperatures, while requiring minimal maintenance. These parameters are optimal for lead-acid batteries.

Another important indicator is capacity, the maximum charge that the battery can accept and store. Insufficient capacity is increased by connecting batteries in parallel, in series or combining both connections.

Calculation will help you find out the required number of batteries. Let's consider it to concentrate the energy reserve for 1 day in a battery with a capacity of 200 Ah and a voltage of 12 V.

Let's assume that the daily demand is 4800 V.h., the output voltage of the system is 24 V. Taking into account that the losses on the inverter will be 20%, we will introduce a correction factor of 1.2.

4800:24x1.2=240 Ah

The depth of battery discharge should not exceed 30-40%, let's take this into account.

240x0.4= 600 Ah

The resulting value is three times the battery capacity, so to store the required amount you will need 3 batteries connected in parallel. But at the same time, the battery voltage is 12 V, to double it, you will need 3 more batteries connected in series.

To obtain a voltage of 48 V, connect two parallel chains of 4 AB each in parallel.

The inverter is used to convert direct current into alternating current. Select it according to peak, maximum load. On some consuming devices, the inrush current is significantly higher than the rated current. It is this indicator that is taken into account. In other cases, nominal values ​​are taken into account.

The shape of the voltage also matters. The best option is a pure sine wave. For devices that are not sensitive to voltage changes, a square shape is suitable. You should also consider the possibility of switching the device from the battery directly to solar panels.

Required number of cells

Insolation rates vary greatly in different areas. To make a correct calculation, you need to know these numbers for your area; the data is easy to find on the Internet or at a weather station.

Insolation table by month for different regions

Insolation depends not only on the time of year, but also on the angle of the battery

When calculating, focus on the lowest insolation levels during the year, otherwise the battery will not generate enough energy during this period.

Suppose the minimum indicators are in January, 0.69, the maximum in July, 5.09.

Correction factors for winter time are 0.7, for summer time - 0.5.

The required amount of energy is 4800 Wh.

One panel has a power of 260 W and a voltage of 24 V.

Losses on the battery and inverter are 20%.

We calculate consumption taking into account losses: 4800 × 1.2 = 5760 Wh = 5.76 kWh.

We determine the performance of one panel.

Summer: 0.5×260×5.09= 661.7 Wh.

In winter: 0.7×260×0.69=125.5 Wh.

We calculate the required number of batteries by dividing the energy consumed by the performance of the panels.

In summer: 5760/661.7=8.7 pcs.

In winter: 5760/125.5=45.8 pcs.

It turns out that for full provision, in winter you will need five times more modules than in summer. Therefore, it is worth immediately installing more batteries or winter period provide a hybrid power supply system.

How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands

The assembly consists of several stages: manufacturing the case, soldering the elements, assembling the system and installing it. Before you start work, stock up on everything you need.

The battery consists of several layers

Materials and tools

• photocells;
• flat conductors;
• alcohol-rosin flux;
• soldering iron;
• aluminum profile;
• aluminum corners;
• hardware;
• silicone sealant;
• hacksaw for metal;
• screwdriver;
• glass, plexiglass or plexiglass;
• diodes;
• measuring instruments.

It is better to order photocells complete with conductors; they are specially designed for this purpose. Other conductors are more fragile, which can be a problem during soldering and assembly. There are cells with already soldered conductors. They cost more, but significantly save time and labor costs.

Buy plates with conductors, this will reduce operating time

The housing frame is usually made of aluminum angle, but it is possible to use wooden slats or bars square section 2x2. This option is less preferable as it does not provide sufficient protection from weather conditions.

For a transparent panel, choose a material with a minimum refractive index. Any obstacle in the path of the rays increases energy loss. It is desirable that the material transmits as little infrared radiation as possible.

Important! The more the panel is charged, the less energy it produces.

Frame calculation

The dimensions of the frame are calculated based on the size of the cells. It is important to provide a small distance of 3-5 mm between adjacent elements and take into account the width of the frame so that it does not overlap the edges of the elements.

The cells are available in various sizes; consider a variant of 36 plates, 81x150 mm in size. We arrange the elements in 4 rows, 9 pieces in one. Based on these data, the dimensions of the frame are 835x690 mm.

Making a box

Soldering of elements and assembly of modules

If the elements were purchased without contacts, they must first be soldered to each plate. To do this, cut the conductor into equal pieces.

1. Cut a rectangle out of cardboard the right size and wrap the conductor around it, then cut it on both sides.
2. Apply flux to each conductor and attach the strip to the element.
3. Carefully solder the conductor along the entire length of the cell.

   Solder conductors to each plate

4. Place the cells in a row one after another with a gap of 3-5 mm and solder them together sequentially.

   During installation, periodically check the functionality of the modules

5. Transfer the finished rows of 9 cells into the housing and align them relative to each other and the contour of the frame.
6. Solder in parallel, using wider bars and observing polarity.

   Place rows of elements on a transparent backing and solder them together

7. Output the “+” and “-” contacts.
8. Apply 4 drops of sealant to each element and place the second glass on top.
9. Let the glue dry.
10. Fill the perimeter with sealant to prevent moisture from getting inside.
11. Secure the panel to the housing using corners, screwing them into the sides of the aluminum profile.
12. Install a Schottke blocking diode using sealant to prevent the battery from discharging through the module.
13. Provide the output wire with a two-pin connector, and then connect the controller to it.
14. Screw the corners to the frame to secure the battery to the support.

Video: soldering and assembling a solar module

The battery is ready, all that remains is to install it. For more efficient work you can make a tracker.

Manufacturing of the rotary mechanism

The simplest turning mechanism is easy to make yourself. The principle of its operation is based on a system of counterweights.

1. From wooden blocks or an aluminum profile, assemble a support for the battery in the form of a stepladder.
2. Using two bearings and a metal rod or pipe, place the battery on top so that it is centered on the larger side.
3. Orient the structure from east to west and wait until the sun is at its zenith.
4. Rotate the panel so that the rays hit it vertically.
5. Attach a container of water to one end and balance it at the other end with a weight.
6. Make a hole in the container so that the water flows out little by little.

As the water flows out, the weight of the vessel will decrease and the edge of the panel will rise up, turning the battery behind the sun. The size of the hole will have to be determined experimentally.

The simplest solar tracker is made on the principle of a water clock

All you need is to pour water into the container in the morning. This design cannot be installed on the roof, but for garden plot or the lawn in front of the house, it is quite suitable. There are other, more complex tracker designs, but they will be more expensive.

Video: how to make your own electronic solar tracker

Battery Installation

Now you can conduct a test and enjoy free electricity.

Module maintenance

Solar panels do not require special maintenance, because they have no moving parts. For their normal functioning, it is enough to clean the surface from time to time from dirt, dust and bird droppings.

Wash the batteries out garden hose, with good water pressure, you don’t even need to climb onto the roof to do this. Make sure it's working properly additional equipment.

How soon will the costs be recouped?

You should not expect immediate benefits from a solar power supply system. Its average payback is approximately 10 years for an autonomous system at home.

The more energy you consume, the faster your costs will pay off. After all, both small and large consumption require the purchase of additional equipment: battery, inverter, controller, and they account for a small part of the costs.

Also consider the service life of the equipment, and the panels themselves, so that you don’t have to change them before they pay for themselves.

Despite all the costs and disadvantages, solar energy is the future. The sun is a renewable energy source and will last at least another 5 thousand years. And science does not stand still; new materials for photovoltaic cells are appearing, with much greater efficiency. This means that they will soon be more affordable. But you can use the energy of the sun now.