August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

The best way to disguise engineering communications in the plumbing room - construct a box in the bathroom for pipes. I recently renovated a city apartment and constructed a similar structure using plasterboard. The result is a fairly simple and functional design.

Features of the bathroom box

A sanitary room is a room with a specific microclimate in which utilities run public use– water supply and sewerage.

Pipes in the bathroom are also usually equipped with monitoring devices (hot and cold water) and control ( shut-off valves). And herself engineering system requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of connections, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas, and so on.

In this regard, the bathroom box must meet several important requirements:

1. Take up minimal space. Given the small area of ​​the plumbing room, the structure must be made in such a size that it does not take up free space. But at the same time, the casing and profiles must be at least 3 cm away from the pipes.
2. Provide free access to engineering systems. The design of the box should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, meters and taps for inspection or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but as a last resort it is necessary to install a sufficient number of inspection doors.
3. Be safe.
4. To harmonize with the decorative finish of the bathroom.

There are many more requirements that can be named, but these, in my opinion, must be taken into account without fail.

Choosing the right material

Now let's figure out what to make the box from. Most often I had to design it for pipes from plastic panels and drywall.

A plastic box is more suitable for a riser in a plumbing room, the walls and ceiling of which are finished similar material. Then the bathroom interior will look holistic and harmonious.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, when compared with plastic panels, has more benefits which I have listed in the table:

Characteristic	Description
Easy to install	Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed to a frame made of galvanized profiles, so they can be used to construct a box of any shape and size. You do not need to have any special skills or use complex engineering equipment.
Light weight	Plasterboard sheets weigh little, so they do not put additional load on the structural elements of the building. And to hold them, thin and light galvanized parts are sufficient.
Flexibility	When wetted with water and trimmed on one side, the gypsum board can be given a rounded shape, creating a spectacular and unique box in the plumbing room, which will become the central element of the design.
Smooth surface	Drywall sheets have ideal flat surface, which facilitates their subsequent decorative processing of the box. You do not have to perform additional leveling using beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes	The surface of a box made of plasterboard sheets, can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, tiles are glued to gypsum boards, but you can also use wallpaper, paint, and lining (plastic or wood).
Fire safety	The described material consists of hardened gypsum and thin sheets of cardboard, therefore it is difficult to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. When exposed to an open flame, it does not emit toxic smoke or combustion products hazardous to health.
Environmental friendliness	The material has zero level formaldehyde emissions, therefore completely safe for the human body both during installation and during further operation.
Affordable price	The cost of plasterboard sheets is low, so anyone can afford this method of covering a box, even if the amount planned for toilet repair is small.

I would like to note right away that to construct the box it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall, which is painted in green. It tolerates operation better in conditions high humidity and is specially designed for installation in sanitary facilities.

By the way, from plastic panels assembled on galvanized profiles, you can construct an excellent laundry box. Including portable. If you choose the color of the panels to match the tiles or the color of the plumbing fixtures, such a container for dirty things will look quite natural in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to drywall, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use this set for work:

1. UD profiles for constructing frame parts running along walls and ceilings.
2. CD profiles for mounting the frame racks of the future box, as well as the production of stiffening elements for the future structure.
3. Dowel-nails or screws with plastic dowels with which wall profiles will be secured to the surface.
4. Construction level. It is best to use a laser, but regular water is also quite suitable. A long tool is more suitable, since you will have to mark the walls.
5. Reinforcing tape for strengthening seams between sheets of drywall. It is called serpyanka.
6. Knife for cutting drywall sheets. Regular will do a stationery knife with replaceable blades or a specialized tool.
7. Hammer for drilling holes in reinforced concrete walls bathroom.
8. Screwdriver for securing drywall sheets to a constructed galvanized frame.
9. Self-tapping screws for drywall. You will need regular ones (with a sharp tip) and special ones (their tip looks like a metal drill). The latter are useful for installing drywall sheets on the installation frame.
10. Putty for drywall. Used together with serpyanka to seal seams between sheets of sheathing.
11. Acrylic primer. It is used to treat the surface of gypsum boards in order to reduce their absorbency and increase adhesion to tile adhesive (or other decorative material).
12. Metal scissors. With their help, parts of suitable size are cut from long galvanized profiles.
13. Spatulas. Used for puttying drywall joints and gluing tiles.

Box installation technology

This time I will tell you how to install a box in a bathroom made of plasterboard, with which you can not only cover the pipes, but also hide the installation for wall hung toilet(because sanitary room in the case I described it was combined).

I divided the technology for installing such a box into several successive stages, which are shown in the diagram below:

Marking

I'll start by marking the walls for installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I already said, I will sheathe the installation together with the pipelines, to which the toilet will subsequently be attached. Initially field future battle looks like this:

Let's start marking. Despite the apparent simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets, which I want to talk about in more detail:

1. I mark the walls near the vertical pipes. This is done as follows:
   • First you need to find a section of the pipe that protrudes further than others, then measure a distance from it equal to 3-5 cm (minimum acceptable) and make a mark on the wall.

• Using a laser or water level, draw a strictly vertical line that starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark you made and ends at the floor.
• The same should be done with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made indicating the surface of the future box, after which a strictly vertical line is drawn through it.

1. I mark the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and floor. These will be guidelines for securing the profiles to the mentioned surfaces. The work flow is as follows:
   • Near the ceiling, a square is applied to the line on the wall so that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
   • After this, the square is installed flush with a vertical line drawn on the wall.
   • Using a pencil, draw a line on the ceiling along which you subsequently need to secure the U-shaped profile.
   • In a similar way, draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the adjacent wall. The markup should look like this.
   • After this, you need to mark the floor in the same way, on which profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.

1. I mark the installation locations for the profiles near the toilet installation. In this place, the box will occupy a minimum of free space in the bathroom, therefore the profiles will be installed at the same level as the border of the installation frame. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • You should attach a square to the frame, using it as a guide to make a mark on the bathroom wall that will be flush with the frame.
   • Using the marks made, you need to draw lines on the wall.
   • Check that the markings are done correctly using a water level. The marks must be strictly vertical and horizontal.

1. When marking, you can focus not on the dimensions of the pipes, but on geometric parameters tiles In this case, marking the boundaries of the structure is done as follows:
   • In the corner opposite to where the box will be placed, it is necessary to retreat approximately 1.2 cm from the junction of the walls (the thickness of the tile with the adhesive composition) and make a mark with a pencil. Then, through this line, draw a vertical line along the entire wall - from ceiling to floor.

• The distance from this mark to the intended location of the box is measured. After which the resulting value is divided by the width of the tiles used for cladding plus 2 mm for the seam between each.
• Then a mark is placed for the box so that after laying the tiles there is no need to trim them. Or so that the cut tile is wide (that is, the cut part is narrow). This way the box will look as organic as possible.

After completing the marking, you can proceed to the installation of galvanized profiles, onto which the drywall will subsequently be attached.

Installation of profiles

Let's start work by installing frame profiles that will sheathe vertical water and sewer pipes. The installation sequence is as follows:

1. I install galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. To secure them, dowels and nails will be used:
   • First you need to cut the U-shaped galvanized profile so that its length is equal to the length of the mark on the floor. You can cut the part using metal scissors.
   • After this, the cut piece is tried on at the place of its installation. If for some reason protruding parts interfere with its installation, small area the profile can be trimmed with scissors and bent with pliers.

• The fitted part is then pressed to the floor and straight through it into concrete surface Using a puncher, a hole is made with a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the selected dowels (usually 6 mm).

• After this, a plastic dowel with a metal core is driven into the hole, which will firmly hold metal part in the place designated for it.
• Holes are drilled in the same way and the remaining dowels are driven in. The distance between adjacent fasteners is approximately 20 cm.

1. I install galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room. The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly according to the markings. Otherwise, serious difficulties will arise when installing intermediate profiles and securing sheets of drywall.
2. I install vertical parts on the walls. This also requires UD profiles and dowel nails. The work flow is as follows:
   • Using metal scissors, a part is cut from the profile, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
   • After this, the profile is inserted inside the parts that are already fixed to the ceiling and floor.

• Then the profile is nailed to the surface using dowel nails. First, it is better to drill a hole and hammer fasteners near the floor and ceiling so that the part is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate fasteners at a distance of about 20 cm from each other. It is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly along the line drawn on the wall.
• After this, the vertical and horizontal parts must be fastened together using small self-tapping screws (“bugs”). To do this, you need to squeeze the two parts together with pliers, and then screw the self-tapping screw into this place. If this is not done, the surface of the inner part may bend when screwing fasteners into it.

• If the length of your existing profile is not enough, then you can build a suitable part from two. To do this, they are nested into each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this area must be reinforced with a separate dowel and screw.

1. I install a corner piece for the vertical part of the box. It uses not UD, but a CD profile, which has the required strength. The installation diagram is simple. It is necessary to cut the part to the required length, then insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and floor, and then fasten it together with small self-tapping screws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
2. I install intermediate stiffeners. They are made from CD profiles. The vertical distance between adjacent elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the profile near the wall with the central part and provide the necessary rigidity and strength of the structure during subsequent cladding and operation. Make sure that the stiffeners are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should get something like this design (1 – wall profile, 2 – central profile, 3 – stiffener).

1. I install galvanized profiles for the box that covers the installation. The workflow here is even simpler:
   • First, UD profiles are attached to the wall using pre-made marks using dowel nails or screws.
   • Then the corner of the installation is connected to the profiles on the wall with another piece. All of them are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws (node ​​number 1 in the figure below).
   • Please note that in the case I am describing, the frame for covering the installation was attached after covering the vertical box with plasterboard. However, I describe this process here so as not to violate the logic of presentation (node ​​number 2 in the figure below).

At this point, the frame manufacturing process is completed and you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

Fastening drywall sheets

How to attach drywall to a made frame:

1. I cut gypsum boards into parts the right size. Despite the apparent simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances that I would like to dwell on in more detail:
   • First, using a tape measure, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, and then transfer these dimensions to the plasterboard sheets.

• Then, along the resulting lines, the sheets are cut into parts. To do this, apply to the line aluminum rule(or level), after which a knife cuts through the cardboard layer on the plasterboard and part of the plaster. The part is then turned over to the other side and broken. All that remains is to cut off the second layer of cardboard and trim the end.

• If necessary, technological holes must be made in the sheathing sheets before screwing them to the frame. To do this, drywall is applied to the installation site, after which the areas to be removed are marked. Then they are cut out using the same knife or a piece of blade from a metal saw (for round-shaped holes, you can’t imagine anything better).

• Holes are required for installing inspection doors. Usually they are cut in places where meters or shut-off valves are located. It is also necessary to provide access to inspection holes in sewer pipes to clean them if they become clogged.

1. I screw the plasterboard sheets to the profiles and guides. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • To secure the gypsum board to the frame, black self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used.
   • You need to tighten the fasteners using a screwdriver that can rotate at low speeds.

• The profiles are attached to both the side and intermediate guides. The distance between adjacent screws is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sheathe all sections of the constructed frame. I came up with this design.

1. I am covering an installation for a wall-hung toilet with plasterboard. There are several here important features, which are worth special mention:
   • I started constructing the box and covering the installation only after finishing work with vertical part box, since part of the guide, according to my idea, is attached to drywall.

• The top and side parts of the installation are sheathed with plasterboard sheets in one layer, since they do not experience increased loads during operation, and the front side of the structure must be sheathed with two layers of plasterboard.

• To secure the gypsum board to a metal installation, you need to use special self-tapping screws (number 1 in the figure below), the tip of which is shaped like a metal drill. If you don’t have these, then before screwing in a regular self-tapping screw (in the figure below, number 2) in the installation, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

• First, the first sheet of drywall is screwed to the front side of the installation, and then, on top of it, the second. All necessary technological holes must be pre-cut in both parts.

At this point, the process of attaching drywall to the frame of our box can be considered complete. I ended up with this design.

Now you can start decorative finishing surface of the box.

Finishing

As finishing For my installation box, I chose ceramic tiles. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be finished with any decorative material- with wallpaper, paint, and, if desired, plastic.

The work plan for gluing tiles is as follows:

1. I fill the gaps between the gypsum boards. For this, joint putty is used. For example, Knauf Fugenfüller. To further strengthen these areas, you can use fiberglass tape - serpyanka. The work is done in this order:
   • The seams are treated with drywall primer. It will remove dust from these areas of the box and improve the adhesion of the surface to the putty used.
   • The mixture, pre-mixed with water or a ready-made mixture, must be applied with a spatula to the seams between the sheets, and then carefully pressed inward.
   • Glue the sickle strip on top of the seam, then apply a small amount of mortar on top and level it with a spatula.

1. Primer surface of drywall. It is better to process gypsum board twice. The putty can be applied using a roller or a regular brush. Processing in two layers increases the adhesion strength of the glue and, accordingly, the latter is better able to hold the tile on the surface of the finished box.

1. I am laying tiles. This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those interested can refer to them for the necessary information. I will not dwell on this process here.

After finishing laying the tiles and drying the glue using silicone

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Pipes left in sight are not the best addition to a bathroom interior. In order for the room to have a neat and complete look, communications need to be hidden. Moreover, it is advisable to do this in such a way as to have access to pipe connections, valves, meters and filters. The optimal solution This task will be making a box. Let's look at how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom from plastic panels.

Advantages of a plastic box

The structure for masking pipes can be made of plastic or. Each of these options is good in its own way, but from the point of view of practicality it is in the lead plastic box. It has many undeniable advantages:

• Opportunity quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially important for pipes joined using fittings and threaded connections that are not immune to leaks. After eliminating the breakdown or planned maintenance The pipe box is easy to put back together.
• No need for further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already a finishing decorative material, unlike drywall, which requires final processing.

• Resistance to deformation and ease of repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it is less likely to be damaged than tiles, which can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
• Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or gets wet due to condensation forming on the pipes.
• Easy to install. Installation of the box will take only a few hours and will not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
• Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms are one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
• Spacious and compact. Due to the small thickness of the panels plastic construction it is very roomy and will not take up much extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is very practical: it can be disassembled and assembled required quantity once.

Preparatory work

Before you begin assembling the box, you need to carry out several preliminary activities.

• Inspect all pipes that will be hidden. Eliminate defects while communications are visible. If a new pipeline is being installed at the same time, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum.

• Decide what appearance the box will have in the bathroom. It can hide only a small area where the pipes pass, or occupy a fairly large area. The advantage of the first option is the saving of material and the absence of the need to sacrifice free space. When choosing a more voluminous modification, additional space inside the structure can be adapted for storing things.

• silicone sealant;
• PVC skirting boards for masking joints;
• self-tapping screws;
• sharp construction knife.

Making the frame of the box

When installing the structure frame, follow the following instructions.

• On the walls adjacent to the corner, install guides (UD profiles) that will determine the dimensions of the box. Don't forget to use a level. To attach load-bearing profiles to the wall, use European screws and dowels. If the surface is tiled, you can take metal screws 2.5 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter. They are screwed into the seams between the tiles.

Tip: To save space in the bathroom, install profiles closer to the pipes. The minimum distance is 3 centimeters.

• If the pipes run horizontally, place the profile parallel to the floor and secure it to it.
• Start forming outside corner. Twist a corner post from two UD profiles. Send their regiments to different sides at a right angle and connect with small screws - “fleas”.

• Cut the CD supporting profile into pieces, the length of which will correspond to the dimensions of the structure. Attach the corner stiffener to the wall. Insert the finished profile pieces with one end into the guide installed at the first stage, and the other into the stiffening rib. Thus, both parts of the corner are connected to the profile.
• Every 50 centimeters, add jumpers, which are necessary for the subsequent fastening of PVC panels.
• The second corner profile is attached in a similar way to another wall.

We cover the frame with PVC panels

Once ready load-bearing structure, you can start covering it. This should be done in the following sequence:

• Install starting profile. Carefully, avoiding deformation, secure it with fleas to the installed guide.
• Measure a strip of plastic panel to the required length and cut it sharp knife.
• Fix one panel in the starting profile, attach the second to corner profile and install it to another plane of the box. To connect, use the same “fleas” or “bugs”.
• Assemble the second side of the box in the same way. Fix the starting profile on the last plastic panel, then secure it. If you do this with silicone, you can ensure ease of dismantling in the future if an emergency arises.
• Cut inspection holes in places where you need unobstructed access to important elements pipeline: taps, meters and joints. By using silicone sealant secure special hatches in the holes.

It is impossible to imagine a modern bathroom without communications. But sewer and water pipes will not add attractiveness to the room. Therefore, during the renovation process, apartment and house owners hide these systems under boxes. It is quite possible to carry out such designs yourself, without the involvement of professionals. Just to start, you need to select the material. To implement the described task, you can use one of several methods and complete the installation:

• boxes;
• furniture;
• roller blinds;
• pipes in the wall.

When choosing an option, it is worth considering the possibility of pipe maintenance. If they break, the decor of the room should not be affected. Once the box can be installed, you can mount collapsible design or make access doors.

The pipe box in the bathroom can be installed depending on the location of the lines. You can cover just the pipes or the entire wall. The first option involves decorating individual areas, so there is an opportunity to save on materials.

If you sew up the entire plane, the room will look more attractive, but such a design will reduce usable area. You can use the space partially occupied by pipes by storing various things there.

Preparation of tools and materials

Like all other rooms in your home, the bathroom should look attractive. The indoor pipe box can be made from different materials- it can be drywall, plastic or wood. However, before starting work, you should make sure that you have some tools, including:

• roulette;
• impact drill;
• construction knife;
• plumb line;
• construction corner;
• hammer;
• bubble level.

It will be enough to make boxes standard sheet plasterboard with dimensions 2500x1200 mm. The thickness can range from 9 to 12.5 mm. It is better to purchase moisture-resistant material, because the sewer riser and water pipes are covered with perspiration, so the humidity will be significant.

The frame can be made from wooden blocks square section with a side of 40 or 50 mm. As alternative solution there is a galvanized profile designed for working with drywall. The latter option is more practical, because the profile does not require special training, and it is much easier to install.

Material selection

Before making a box for pipes in the bathroom, you should select the material. It must be moisture-resistant, have a small thickness and weight, and also be based on environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit into the atmosphere. harmful substances. According to these requirements, you can choose plywood, plastic, MDF or moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Conducting training

Before you install a pipe box in your bathroom, you need to think about where problems are most likely to occur. Problems with the plumbing or sewer system occur at the connections. If you plan to install the box after laying the pipes, then you should make sure that the main has fewer connections.

If it is not planned to replace the pipeline, then before hiding the pipes, it is necessary to inspect them. Without fear of leaks, you can close welded or soldered connections. As for fittings, they should be easily accessible. Their inspection should be carried out periodically. This indicates that threaded connections cannot be bricked up. Access must also be guaranteed to valves, filters and meters.

Making a box: determining dimensions

The pipe box in the bathroom should be made only after its future dimensions can be determined. The distance from the walls of the box to the pipes should not be less than 3 cm. Once the markings on the floor have been completed, using a plumb line, the contours of the future box can be transferred to the ceiling and walls.

Frame installation

Before backfilling the communication system, the frame should be installed. It is better to make it from a galvanized profile, because the air in the room will be constantly humid, so wood is not suitable. If the latter option is still preferable for you, then you should choose bars made from rocks that are resistant to rotting. Before use, the elements are treated with an antiseptic.

The components of the frame are fastened together with self-tapping screws or cutters. To fix the profile to the wall, you can stock up on European screws or dowels. The box covering the bathroom pipes must initially be mounted on the walls. At the next stage, the racks that will form the front edge are mounted. Next, guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be made between them. They are required for a frame with a width of more than 0.25 m. A distance of no more than a meter should be left between the jumpers. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom so that it lasts for many years? You must treat the cut area with mastic if you use wooden elements. This will not only protect the material from damage, but also prevent its deformation.

Frame covering

When preparing parts for the box, it is necessary to form entire elements. First you need to cut the side walls. They are cut so that the edges do not extend beyond the frame profile. Then the front part of the box is cut out, which should cover the sides. After cutting, the material is installed on the posts. To do this, use 3.5 cm screws. The step between them should be 2.5 cm. This will provide the frame with strength, so there is no need to fix the material to the jumpers.

To make doors, you can use elements that will be fixed with magnets. Sometimes the box for pipes in the bathroom is made completely collapsible. To do this, sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws at the very edge. Final finishing does not involve decorating them, this is necessary if final stage used ceramic tiles. In order to make the box complete, you can use a plinth or If it is necessary to dismantle the box, the plinth is removed, the screws are unscrewed, finishing material removed.

A plasterboard pipe box in a bathroom is the most common solution for decorating communications. To cover the frame, you should prepare plasterboard, the thickness of which will be 9.5 mm. The joints should be puttied, and then the surface is painted or covered with another material as desired.

Making a plastic box

The first thing you need to do before going into the bathroom is to cover the pipes with a frame. This was discussed above. However, if you want to use polystyrene panels as the lining of the box, then the lining will be done slightly differently. The advantage of this solution is the ability to adjust the structure in height.

The panels have legs, which allows you to level out uneven floors. With the help of these legs you can cover irregularities up to 10 cm. Installation of the panels will look like this. An end support is mounted on the wall. The top and side edges need to be coated with glue and installed in place. Spanner will allow you to tighten the legs of the panels. A plastic pipe box in the bathroom is not only easy to install, but is also durable and reliable.

Recommendations from a specialist for covering the frame of the box with PVC panels

After installing the starting profile, in order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to fix it with fleas on the guide profile. You need to measure the required size on the plastic panel, then cut it with a sharp knife. In the starter profile, the first panel is fixed, while the other is attached to the corner profile.

For connection it is necessary to use bugs or fleas. The second side of the box is assembled according to the same principle. On last panel you need to fix the starting profile. By using silicone, you will ensure ease of dismantling when emergencies arise. In those places where it is necessary to ensure unobstructed access to pipeline elements, it is necessary to cut inspection holes. Special hatches are installed using silicone sealant.

Conclusion

Before making a box, you need to think about what material the frame will be made from. If you plan to use a profile, you should purchase UD and CD guides. If you prefer wood, then to connect elements from it it is better to purchase hardened self-tapping screws, the length of which will be twice the size of the timber used.

In each of these cases, to secure the plasterboard sheets, it is better to stock up on hardened self-tapping screws, the dimensions of which are 35-45 mm. It is important to choose fasteners that have a piercing tip. It will be easier to work with, and it will not damage the material.

Communications located in the bathrooms look unattractive, so in most cases, when starting an apartment renovation, the owners of the living space also want to build a plasterboard box for the pipes. Someone invites a master for this, but if there is even a minimal idea about construction tool You can close the pipes yourself.

Selection of material and necessary tools

Building a box is not a complicated process, but there are some nuances in this work that are worth knowing for a positive result. For installation you need to buy materials, and:

• fasteners – connection elements, “seeds”, dowel-nails;
• plaster;
• silicone-based sealant - useful for sealing joints with the floor;
• inspection hatch;
• drywall
• profile – and .

Material to create plasterboard construction

To work you will need tools, there are not many of them, so preparing it will not be difficult:

• spatula;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• drill 6 mm;
• metal scissors;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• roulette;
• knife and hacksaw;
• bath;
• container for mixing the mixture.

Tools for working with drywall

Once everything is ready, you can assemble the plasterboard box, let's look at the step-by-step instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for making a pipe box

Before you start assembling a drywall box, you need to draw up a project. You should not ignore this stage, as it is one of the important ones, since the quality of the box made on your own depends on it.

Step by step instructions Assembling a plasterboard box to hide waste pipes will be described using the example of a bathroom and toilet; the process of installing a structure to hide pipes in the kitchen is identical to that described.

No need to create exact drawing, it is enough to simply make a schematic drawing with the dimensions of the future structure transferred to it.

Diagram of a plasterboard box for pipes

Watch the video: how to cover pipes with a plasterboard box.

• Next, you need to mark on the floor and ceiling the location of the guide profile; for this you need a construction corner. Place the corner with the short edge to the corner at the intersection of the floor and the wall, and draw a straight line on the floor. The angle between the strip on the wall and the strip on the floor should be 90 degrees;

• The same should be done on the ceiling.

The marking is ready, you can proceed to the next stage.

Mounting and installation of a frame made of profiles

Before the construction metal frame needs to be cut required quantity profile segments equal to the marked lines.

Watch the video: assembling the frame for the future gypsum plasterboard box.

How to install:

• You need to start by installing guide profiles on the floor and ceiling, and then on the walls. They are installed strictly along the lines and secured with dowel nails. To do this, press the profile firmly to the floor and drill holes in the floor directly through it at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Insert dowels into the holes and screw in self-tapping screws;

• After this, you can begin installing rack profiles. It is inserted along guides at the top and bottom. The profile is pressed and secured using dowel nails. The ends of the flexible connection are bent inward or cut off. The main requirement in this situation is that the profile must be level;
• The next step will be the installation of a corner connecting profile; it is screwed with small self-tapping screws to the intersection of the guides at the corner of the future box;

Attaching the rack profile to the guide using self-tapping screws

• Then the stiffening frame is mounted in the pipe box - the profile at the wall and the profile at the corner are connected in small sections. The segments are located strictly parallel to the floor at a distance of 30 cm from each other, along the entire height of the frame on both sides.

Important! The entire assembly must be controlled by level, even a small deviation, which can lead to poor-quality assembly of the structure. This instruction will help you assemble and install a box that can cover heating pipes.

Firstly, for this structure, reinforcement is made from profiles, according to size.

Secondly, such hatches are quite heavy, so you need to secure it carefully, sparing no screws.

Also at this stage you need to determine where it will be installed ventilation grille, it is necessary to prevent condensation from forming inside the box.

Communications passing through the bathroom most often present an unattractive sight. The most simple solution in this case, a repairman may be invited. However, if you have the skills to work with tools and have an idea of ​​how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom, then you can do it yourself.

Box made of moisture-resistant plasterboard

There is only one solution for improving communications - covering it with a decorative box. Occasionally, when the pipe distribution is dispersed over the surface of the wall, it is possible to use a false wall. In most apartments, the layouts are not particularly spacious. When the risers are located in the corners or in the case of compact localization of the wiring the best solution there will be a use of a bathroom box. This way you can get the most compact arrangement, creating the illusion of a more spacious room.

Sewer and water pipes without a duct look unsightly

There are two more questions that need to be resolved before starting work - what can the bathtub box be made from and what size should it be. The main requirement for materials is resistance to high humidity:

• PVC wall panels;

Pipes hidden in a plasterboard box

Pipes are hidden under the frame for PVC panels

Pipes in a plastic channel box

As for the dimensions of the bathtub box, they should be determined by the principle of reasonable expediency. The pipes must be completely covered with decorative walls with a small margin. The size of the internal empty space should ensure, if repairs are necessary, the possibility of access through a removable hatch to key components (revisions, places for installing gaskets, threaded connections pipelines).

Pipe box with inspection door

Disadvantages of drywall

A do-it-yourself bathroom box is most often made from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the low cost, availability and ease of processing of the material. To finish the assembled structure, moisture-resistant paints or tiles can be used.

When purchasing material, you should pay attention to the color of the sheet - moisture-resistant drywall has a green outer paper layer.

The main disadvantage that should be taken into account is the relatively small mechanical strength. When making a box for a bathroom, a sheet of drywall is quite easy to accidentally break. In addition, the resistance of the material to prolonged exposure to moisture is quite limited. Protective compounds Only the outer paper layer is impregnated. When cutting a large sheet, the resulting edges will be unprotected.

Appearance of moisture-resistant drywall

The most critical is the formation of puddles on the floor near the wall of the box under the bathtub. In this case, quite a long time may pass from the moment water appears to detection. Through micro-slits at the junction of the box wall and the floor, moisture can seep inside. When installing the box in the bathroom, you can protect the bottom edge of the drywall sheet from getting wet using a strip of silicone sealant.

What tools and materials will be needed for the job?

Execution decorative box for a bath, not the most difficult, but still quite a labor-intensive process. In addition to the drywall itself, you will need a number of auxiliary materials:

• Galvanized metal profiles - the frame is assembled from them;
• Fasteners - self-tapping screws and dowel-nails for connecting elements supporting structure, attaching it to the surface of the floor and walls, fixing sheets of drywall;
• Silicone sealant - for treating joints with the floor;
• Serpyanka and putty - they are necessary for masking screw heads and sealing sheet joints (used when preparing the surface of a bathroom frame for painting);
• Inspection hatch – for performing maintenance.

Assembling a frame from a metal profile

The set of tools that will be needed to complete the work is not that large. It is quite possible to get by with the necessary minimum, consisting of a screwdriver with a set of bits, a hammer drill, a construction knife and metal scissors.

Necessary tools for making a box

Execution of the frame

Work begins with marking the walls, floor, and, if necessary, the ceiling. The size and location of the lines will indicate the position of the walls of the box. To prevent frame distortions, the markings must be checked with a level. Situations should be avoided where the walls of the plasterboard box in the bathroom will interfere with the opening of the furniture door or the entrance door.

Frame components are mounted level

If all the rules are followed and the markings are done correctly, you can begin assembling the frame of the box for the bathtub. Metal profiles are cut to the required size using metal scissors. First, the sections are attached to the floor and walls - they create reference points for attaching the frame. Then, the vertical posts of the supporting frame of the box under the bathtub are installed. The assembly is completed by installing the top guide, which combines all the elements into a single rigid structure. To service metering devices and sewer inspection, auxiliary guides are installed. In the future, they will serve as the basis on which the inspection hatch will be attached.

The frame is assembled from metal guides

The profiles are connected to each other using self-tapping screws (“seeds”). There is a notch on the surface of the metal that prevents the tip of the screw from slipping. Resting against these recesses, you can easily install the fasteners.

Assembling the frame

Frame covering

Standard sheets of drywall are cut to the required, pre-calculated size. It's a fairly simple process:

• The sheet is laid on a flat surface (in extreme cases, cutting in a vertical or slightly inclined position is allowed);
• Using a tape measure, the required size is measured and small marks are made on the surface with a knife;
• The received marks are superimposed metal ruler or a flat, long wooden strip;
• A construction knife is used to make a cut along the guide;
• The drywall breaks off along the resulting line;
• The resulting edge is trimmed with a knife if necessary.

The frame is covered with plasterboard

Cut sheets of drywall are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The sheet is pressed tightly, the screw is screwed first into the sheet and then into metal profile. As a result, the entire area of ​​the frame (except for the space provided for the hatch) must be sewn up. To facilitate puttying, the fastener heads must be recessed when screwing. To avoid cracking at the edges, fastening must be done with a slight indentation (2-3 cm).

We check all elements for evenness

We apply mineral wool for sound insulation

Ready frame

Preparation for finishing

In order to protect the material of the bathroom box from exposure to water, all joints and junctions are treated with sealant. It is best to use silicone with fungicide additives that prevent the development of mold. The junctions should be sealed especially carefully for the box under the bathtub, where access will be difficult.

Surface preparation before tiling is limited to treatment with a primer solution. The entire area of ​​the box under the bathtub and along the walls in an open space is covered with the working composition using a brush or roller. In internal and external corners perforated corners are fixed, and then the tiles are glued using specialized compounds. These can be either dry mixtures that need to be diluted with water, or ready-to-use mastics. Sometimes to save money consumables the box under the bathtub is covered with paint instead of tiles. Preparation for this type of work involves gluing the joints of individual sheets with sickle tape. A leveling layer of putty is applied over the reinforcing tape and recessed fastener heads.

At the end of the finishing process, an inspection hatch is installed. Its installation is carried out using standard mounting lugs. It is necessary that the hatch dimensions coincide with the hole left for it, and its size is sufficient for servicing.

Tiled plasterboard box with hatch

Application of finished polymer products

The pipe box in the bathroom can be assembled using plastic materials - finishing wall panels and channels. In the first case, the sequence of work is almost identical to that already discussed - the frame is assembled and its sheathing is performed. Installation of plastic panels is carried out using construction adhesives"liquid nails" To make the entire structure look neat, the joints and corners are masked with decorative strips. The inspection hatch is installed on its seat in the bathroom box, secured with fastening tabs to the surface of the panel profiles.

A good solution is to use standard plastic channels to make a bathroom box in which you can hide the pipework. For this purpose, both specialized products and air duct elements are used. Dignity this method is that there is no need to perform additional operations (frame assembly, material cutting, finishing). It is enough to choose a plastic box for the bathroom that is suitable in color for pipes of the required dimensions and fix them on the wall using a hammer drill.

Difficulties arise when it is necessary to cover the sewer riser. Finding shaped parts from which you can make a bathtub box for pipes of the required size can be quite difficult. Another point to consider is the installation of metering devices. It will have to be done either open or using a plastic box.

Regardless of what material is chosen for the manufacture of the box, all operations (cutting, installation, finishing) must be performed carefully. Otherwise, there is no point in taking on the job, there is no need to carry out the work - the best option would be to invite a hired craftsman.

The pipes are hidden in a box made of PVC panels