A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is a sign of a good working style. An accessory for convenience and safety - a stand for a soldering iron with your own hands What to make a stand for a soldering iron from


The topic of stands for soldering irons is covered quite well on our website. How is my stand different from others? — I tried to make it as compact, convenient and functional as possible. Do you want the same? - Please, cut to the chase!

The main feature of this stand is the built-in regulator. It was inconvenient because it constantly got lost and got mixed up with another small pile on the table. This one is tightly screwed to the stand, it will never get lost and will not jump around the table.

The new one is better than the old one in that it has smooth adjustment and operation indication. Here is the diagram according to which I assembled the regulator:

Diode bridge - any one that can withstand the mains voltage and the current consumed by the soldering iron. (formula for calculating current - Soldering iron power / Mains voltage) A suitable diode assembly or bridge can be removed from the input circuit of the computer power supply. Instead of a diode bridge, you can use a diode, then the adjustment range will be from 50 to 100%.

It is advisable to install fuse F1, but not necessary.

Switch S1, S2 - Bipolar toggle switch with middle position. In the middle position, the soldering iron is turned off and the HL1 LED will not light up. In the position indicated in the diagram, the power of the soldering iron is regulated by trimming resistor R3; in the opposite position of the toggle switch, the current flows directly to the load, bypassing the regulator.

I made all these changes personally for myself, and it is not necessary to repeat this scheme exactly. There is a suitable diagram you can get from there.

Regulator board:

To cover the insides of the regulator from external influences, I made a plastic body and bent the edges using a technical hair dryer:

We've sorted out the electronic components of the regulator, now let's move on to creating the components of the stand itself.

In order not to lose various small things and store solders, I made a small box of tin, the corners of which for strength:

The soldering iron stop itself is, in my opinion, the most successful design. In order for the soldering iron to hold well in such a stop, when inserting it, its center line must be below the horns of the stop.

When soldering, a device is often necessary, but there is no need to always clutter the table with such devices - just attach an alligator clip to the stand, which is secured with a screw:

I use it to clean the soldering iron tip. metal sponge for washing dishes, which will be placed in a box with edges made for it:

Stand base - Rectangular chipboard:

Milled recess for rosin:

I crushed rosin from a jar into the recess and warmed it up. construction hairdryer so as not to sleep:

We begin to attach the above nodes to the base; further comment is unnecessary:

The fastening of the main nodes is completed.

To prevent the stand from rolling on the table, I glued rubber rounds to the back side:

Well, to ensure that everything is in accordance with Feng Shui, we glue identification badges onto the regulator body:

The main tool for a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other devices, it cannot simply be placed on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Right! He's hot. Therefore, you will need a special stand.

There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.

In most cases, a soldering iron is needed to perform urgent tasks. repair work. If you are not a professional “homemade” tool, the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, appearing once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first item they come across as a stand.

However, if you put in just a little effort, a DIY soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make electrical circuits.

Minimum required for stand

  1. Stable base. Made from a material that conducts heat poorly or equipped with legs
  2. Soldering iron supports
  3. Container for rosin (flux).

Additional "options"

  1. Tinning area
  2. Solder container
  3. Tip cleaning device
  4. power regulator (can be of two types: smooth adjustment, or stepwise limitation for the time of a break in work).

Leafing through old magazines

In old Radio magazines you can find drawings on how to make a stand with an economical load switch.

  • As a basis ( 1 ) a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made of a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
  • Under the surface there is a 220 volt relay contact group ( 2,4,5 ) with large current collecting areas. The connection circuit transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radio element “cuts off” the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
  • Through traction ( 6 ), spring loaded ( 7 ) button ( 8 ) presses the contacts when the soldering iron is lying on the stand. Electricity consumption is half as much, while the soldering iron almost instantly heats up to full power. The rod is attached to the console ( 9 )
  • The tool itself is located on brackets ( 3 ) And ( 10 )
  • At the rear there is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
  • Between the posts, usually nailed tin can from shoe polish or Vaseline, for storing rosin

The design is simple, but convenient and effective. If you don’t want any hassles with contacts, we’ll make a simple functional stand. Again from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.

Greetings, Samodelkins!

To do this we will need the following tools and materials:
1. Laminate scraps left over after renovation
2. A small piece of 16mm chipboard
3. Clamp for polypropylene pipes
4. Electric jigsaw
5. Wood glue
6. Spray paint. The author used black, but then, in some way, regretted that he had chosen such a gloomy color. dark color. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a more cheerful color.
7. Putty
8. Sandpaper
9. USB lamp from a fix-price store
10. 2 alligator clips
11. A pair of small bolts and nuts for them
12. Copper wire

The author begins work on a homemade product. First you need to decide what you are going to store in your homemade product. To determine the size of the future product, he compactly folds what will be stored in a homemade organizer in the near future.


At this stage, he also notes the approximate dimensions of the future product.
Now, but more precisely, he makes a drawing of the workpiece. When making a drawing, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the materials used.




Now the author proceeds directly to making the organizer. First, he cuts the laminate and chipboard to size. Super precision is not needed here, but still try to make the cut as close to 90 degrees as possible. This is what the box should look like.










Next, you need to mark what size the stands for the soldering iron holder should be. The recesses should naturally be higher than the walls of the box, and the stands themselves should be of such length that, when lying down, they fit comfortably in the box, and in one layer. Now you need to cut out a recess for both metal parts. The author does it this way:








After some time, he realizes that this could have been done much easier with a wood crown, and only then cut in half. Well, as they say, a good thought comes to someone else or to ourselves, but late.
This is what ended up happening. All you have to do is tighten a couple of screws and you're done.


Now let's start assembling the box itself. Starts from the bottom. Makes small recesses in advance for the screw heads. Then, in the gluing areas, use sandpaper to remove the entire glossy layer of the laminate. Next is gluing. The author takes a special glue for wood products and glues the wide side walls made of chipboard. When gluing, it is advisable to use clamps. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to secure the entire structure from below with self-tapping screws. Next, check the perpendicularity of the walls. You need to measure the angle between the walls. It should be straight - 90°.










Everything is fine, let's move on. Now this design It has rigidity, so it can be glued and screwed onto screws at the same time. This is what happened.




The author made the lid of the box using a tongue-and-groove connection. It's long and tedious. The author adjusted everything by hand so that it fits tightly enough into one whole. Next he glues all the details. This will be quite enough, since practically no loads are expected on this part of the organizer.




Then you will need sandpaper. It is necessary to use it to sand down all possible irregularities and apply wood putty. Putty is mainly needed to cover the chips on chipboard ends, well, and hide all sorts of jambs that formed during manufacturing. After the putty has hardened, you need to clean it. The same sandpaper will come to the rescue.






The next stage is painting.


It is necessary to paint the box to give it a marketable appearance.
Well, the paint has completely dried and here the author would like to add one point. It was necessary to choose a more cheerful color so that loved ones would not have the desire to take the box away and bury, for example, a hamster in it. Oh well.




Now you can carefully remove the tape from the stand where the hot part of the soldering iron will be. We don't need the smell of burnt paint. If there are adhesive traces left from the tape, you can try to remove them. Or leave it as is. After turning on the soldering iron, the remaining adhesive from the tape on the stand should burn out.






And on the part where the handle will be we put on the original rubber band from the fastener for polypropylene water pipe so that the soldering iron does not slide on the stand.


The mounting of the soldering iron stand itself will be very simple. Nuts are glued into the racks and the whole thing is tightened with bolts with heads to the wall of the box. Here's what we ended up with:






Everything is very simple and practical. If you wish, you can drill several more of the same holes, and if you have more than one soldering iron, then this design feature will be very useful. It will be possible to rearrange the rack under different sizes soldering iron Now the author decided to make a couple of clips in the side wall of the box. They will be used as a third hand for soldering. To make such a design you will need this miracle of Chinese engineering from a fix-price store.


In the store it is positioned as a USB lamp for illuminating a laptop keyboard. It can also be used in conjunction with a power bank, or as a night light. It is better suited as the latter, since, to be honest, its light is so-so, but its flexible leg will be useful to us. You will also need a couple of small screws with mortise nuts.

A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is a very convenient and practical device, which is a kind of table and performs protective function. Before soldering, the soldering iron must be warmed up. When warming up, the case gets very hot, which is why you should use a stand to protect any items.

Design of the soldering iron stand: 1 – base, 2, 4, 5 – contacts from a relay type MKU-48 for 220 V, 3.10 – support posts, 6 – disk, 7 – spring, 8, movable contact rod KP 9 – square , D1 - diode type D7Zh.

The need for a soldering iron stand

A high-quality and practical stand for a soldering iron is needed by all those who deal with soldering. You can make it yourself from scrap materials, you just need to have certain skills and certain tools. A homemade soldering iron stand is quite simple to make and use. In order for a thing to be convenient, it must have certain slots intended for containers with flux and alcohol, boxes for rosin and alcohol, as well as a place for displaying some parts. A homemade soldering iron stand can be used with a tool of any power. When making a structure, it is necessary to arrange all containers in such a way that it is convenient to solder.

The main tool for a home radio amateur is a soldering iron. Unlike other devices, it cannot simply be placed on a table (workbench) while working. Why? Right! He's hot. Therefore, you will need a special stand.

  • 1 Minimum required for stand
  • 2 Leafing through old magazines
  • 3 Third hand - work in comfort
  • 4 Stand and power regulator for soldering iron
    • 4.1 You will need the following items

There are a lot of different devices on sale, from a simple holder to a whole complex called a soldering station.


In most cases, a soldering iron is needed to perform urgent repair work. If you are not a professional “homemade” tool, the instrument usually gathers dust in a box on the balcony, appearing once or twice a year. In such cases, many people use the first item they come across as a stand.


However, if you put in just a little effort, a DIY soldering iron stand will look no worse than a factory one. Especially if you regularly make electrical circuits.



Minimum required for stand

  • Stable base. Made from a material that conducts heat poorly or equipped with legs
  • Soldering iron supports
  • Container for rosin (flux).
  • Additional "options"
  • Tinning area
  • Solder container
  • Tip cleaning device
  • power regulator (can be of two types: smooth adjustment, or stepwise limitation for the time of a break in work).
  • Leafing through old magazines

    In old Radio magazines you can find drawings on how to make a stand with an economical load switch.



    • As a base (1), a board with a selected middle is used, or a U-shaped structure made from a strip of plywood and two bars along the long edges
    • Under the surface there is a relay contact group for 220 volts (2,4,5) with large current-collecting pads. The connection circuit transfers power either directly or through a diode. The radio element “cuts off” the halves of the half-cycle of an alternating voltage of 220 volts, reducing it to a value of 110
    • Through the rod (6), the spring-loaded (7) button (8) presses the contacts when the soldering iron lies on the stand. Electricity consumption is half as much, while the soldering iron almost instantly heats up to full power. The rod is attached to the console (9)
    • The tool itself is located on brackets (3) and (10)
    • At the rear there is a soldering iron socket connected to the relay output contacts. The power supply wire is connected to the input
    • Between the posts, a tin can of shoe polish or Vaseline was usually nailed for storing rosin.

    The design is simple, but convenient and effective. If you don’t want any hassles with contacts, we’ll make a simple functional stand. Again from the experience of Soviet radio amateurs.




    Third hand - work in comfort

    During suspended soldering, it becomes necessary to hold two parts and a soldering iron at the same time. This is where the term “third hand” comes from. In the next review homemade stand with such a device.
    The materials and tools that will be needed for manufacturing are shown in the photo:



    Factory-made parts - crocodile clips, decorative candles (or rather, cups from them), a flexible leg from an old mini lamp and a spring holder. The donor was a Chinese stand for a soldering iron with a magnifying glass.



    Although you can make such a spiral with your own hands by winding steel wire onto a pipe or screwdriver handle. The rest of the blanks are also replaceable, the homemade product is shareware, made from improvised rubbish.
    Using a drywall bit, we mill out the recesses for the candle cups. Two niches for rosin and solder, and one niche for cleaning cloth.



    IN convenient place(not in the center) mount a spiral holder for the soldering iron. Practice has shown that this scheme is more convenient than the classic horn stand for a soldering iron. The electrical appliance is inserted in one motion, without fear that it will fall on the table.



    We install aluminum cups in the prepared niches and cut off the edges flush with the board. The use of thin-walled containers pays off when working with low-power soldering irons. The less metal there is, the lower the heat capacity. The thick walls of the solder cup can cool the small tip of the soldering iron when touched. On the contrary, thin aluminum foil surrounded by wood retains heat.



    We crimp the “crocodiles” onto the flexible rod and secure the “third arm” to the stand. There are designs with a magnifying glass. Experience shows that the soldering iron stand, on which the clamps and magnifying glass are mounted, is inconvenient to use.

    Optimal options

    • the magnifying glass is combined with the “third hand”, the soldering iron is separate
    • “third hand” on a stand with a soldering iron, a magnifying glass on a separate pedestal (our version).

    The only thing missing is the ability to change temperature conditions work. This is especially true when installing LEDs.

    Soldering iron stand and power regulator

    The simplest and relatively affordable option, this is the purchase of a Chinese kit soldering station. You will be assembling such a KIT yourself, so we will classify it as homemade.



    It can be assembled in the stand housing or as a separate device. The convenience of this design is undeniable, but we are considering the least expensive options. A 220-volt soldering iron is available in almost every home; all that remains is to assemble a power regulator.

    Important! Dimers for incandescent lamps can be used, taking into account the power of the soldering iron.

    But you will have to buy them again. Let's consider a simple circuit of a homemade regulator with a power of up to 200 W.

    You can use an autotransformer, but this is a bulky device with low efficiency. Let's leave such “devices” for the radio engineering museum. Our triac circuit is miniature and economical.



    You will need the following items

  • variable resistor (voltage regulator) R1 rated up to 500 Ohm
  • the second part of the divider is a constant resistor R2 with a nominal value of 4.7 kOhm
  • C1 – capacitor AC 0.1 µF
  • VD1 – diode type 1N4148
  • LED element VD-2 for power indication
  • DB3 series dinistor (VD3 in the diagram)
  • the main element is a BTA06-600 triac, designated VD4.
  • The circuit ensures continuous operation with a load of 200-300 W. Short-term loads up to 500 W are allowed.

    Circuit board drawing for self-etching:


    Carefully assemble the board, carefully soldering the legs of the parts. If the contact breaks, you can get uncontrolled voltage surges at the output.



    The circuit is compact and can easily fit on a soldering iron stand. With power up to 100 W, triac cooling is not required. For larger loads, a small radiator is attached to the body.



    After familiarizing yourself with the material, you yourself will decide which stand to make. Or look visual video lesson on making a stand with your own hands.