Why does the rhododendron, which was purchased from a nursery and planted in compliance with all the specified ceremonies listed on the popular website, not bloom, with meaningful and detailed care information? Because rhododendron can be evergreen, semi-evergreen, deciduous, and grows in different soils and in different climatic conditions. There are southern species, and there are those that take root in the middle zone. Sometimes it is a shrub, and sometimes it is a low tree, and many species are united only by belonging to the genus of heather plants. It can even bloom in different ways - as an umbrella or corymbose inflorescence. They say that a plant planted from seeds grows poorly and does not bloom at all, but plants from a nursery are accepted much better. But in the nursery they are also grown from seeds.

Before you read detailed instructions for rhododendron as an abstract name, which is known to bloom beautifully, and one branch can replace a whole bouquet, it is necessary to find out which species we're talking about. Is it suitable for planting in this climate, and does this particular rhododendron require a certain soil, climatic conditions, presence or absence of sun. Those who deal with roses know that each variety has its own whims and preferences. And that some varieties do not want to bloom in a certain climatic zone. Rhododendron, which is sometimes compared to the rose in beauty, is very similar to it in this respect.

Not all are suitable for growing in temperate and cold climates. Botanists and biologists recommend only a few species that can be successfully grown, achieving flowering even with non-professional care. These include:

• Katevbinsky;
• Schlippenbach;
• Japanese;
• Daursky;
• Caucasian;
• Deciduous;
• hybrid varieties (Azurro, Homer, Waterer).

There are about 1000 plant species, of which about 12 thousand varieties were later grown through hybridization, including Hackmanns, Brigitte, Bernstein, Golbuket, which are evergreen shrubs, but only a few varieties that a novice gardener can handle are considered optimal. Katevbinsky grows in North Carolina, where natural conditions are close to those of the northern zone of Russia, and this allows it to easily endure winter. It blooms with lilac-purple, large flowers, up to 15 cm in diameter. It easily tolerates winter, and in the fall it can decorate any garden with the color of its foliage.

Bloom Japanese look occurs until late autumn, the inflorescences are large, bright orange, with an original aroma. It is classified as frost-resistant, the bush grows up to 2 m, is very branched, and surpasses in beauty almost all species growing in the temperate zone and in the North. Daurian grows naturally in Siberia, on Far East, like the Caucasian species, has a whole spectrum useful substances, due to which it is used in folk medicine and in the pharmaceutical industry. Deciduous species, or Pink, native to Canada, with small flowers that merge into a lush flowering crown, easy to care for, tolerates winter well. Hybrid species are usually evergreen varieties and bloom in June. Resistant to natural conditions is put into them during hatching. Each variety has its own preferences and requirements, which you need to know about when the plant is planted. Flowering is characteristic of those rhododendrons that thrive in their usual climate.

Half the battle is getting it right

It is extremely difficult for a non-professional gardener to grow rhododendron from seeds. The best option is to plant from already grown seedlings purchased from a nursery. Many are sure that it is better to purchase from those nurseries that have a long-term and proven reputation. They are grown there with respect. necessary rules and in good faith. It is recommended to buy trees 2-4 years old, but the older the plant, the more difficult it is for it to adapt to a new place. Planting material needs to be carefully inspected. The leaves and roots must be healthy, and the closer the branches are located along the trunk to the root system, the greater the chance that the future pearl of the garden will take root in a new place.

Correct landing is carried out under certain conditions:

1. 1 The hole for the rhizome must be prepared in advance, and the filler, nutrients, and substrate that will cover the roots must be prepared taking into account the specific variety.
2. 2 The root system is buried shallowly, top layer soil is no more than 5 cm, a covering substrate is required. A mulch roller is made around the planting site to protect the soil from quickly drying out.
3. 3 After planting, the plant requires careful watering. The volume of water required is calculated from the ratio of height to liters. If the height is 40 cm, then 4-5 liters of water are needed, if a meter - 10-11. For a seedling purchased with flower ovaries, part of the ovary is certainly cut off so that the plant is guaranteed to take root.
4. 4 How much and what kind of fertilizer should be applied is decided by taking into account the variety of the purchased plant, its condition after planting, the time required for establishment, the appearance of the rhododendron, which informs about the need for something by the condition of the leaves, stem, color, and cell turgor.

You should not try too hard to purchase a plant that is already flowering. If planting is done correctly, this is already half the way to future beauty. But flowering plant less chance of surviving the move because some vitality it has already spent on the formation of buds.

The main reasons for the lack of flowering

The main reasons why rhododendron does not bloom are simple things common to all plants:

1. 1 Inconsistency of the soil, its consistency, composition, necessary substances;
2. 2 Excess nitrogen in fertilizers. This leads to many new shoots, but the flower does not set.
3. 3 Bright sun, to which a tree or shrub reacts negatively. Rhododendron requires moderate shade.
4. 4 Missing nutrients. Should be carefully studied external condition plants, requirements of this variety to their availability.
5. 5 The plant loves moisture, but does not like stagnant water under the rhizome; this should be checked.
6. 6 The peat pot in which the seedling was brought could be sour, and this has a depressing effect on the ovary of the flower
7. 7 Dense sandy soil is extremely undesirable; these plants love loose, breathable soil.

Many flower lovers can easily get azaleas to bloom in pots at home, but they won’t be able to force a rhododendron planted on their property to bloom. But indoor plants easily forced to flower using special means purchased from gardening stores. This tactic also works on trees and shrubs planted to decorate the landscape.

Stimuli, messages and impulses

There are a few simple things you can do to get your rhododendron to bloom. Trim some branches in spring or autumn, especially if some of them are old or stand out far from the general crown. Many stimulants offered by commercial outlets, the most productive of which (Ovary, Bud, Gibbersib Baikal EM-1, Domotsvet, Sodium Humate), after consulting with competent people or reading the annotation, can be used to push the rhododendron to the desired ovary of flower abundance. A good remedy is abundant watering warm water(the so-called " warm baths"), after which the soil above the roots is covered with additional substrate.

Biologists recommend using a stress method as a shake-up, in which the plant is not given anything to drink for several days and then watered abundantly. Genetic memory forces him to then produce abundant flower ovaries in order to reproduce seeds. Sometimes this is enough to see a flowering bush in a short time. If you use technical fertilizer for flowering when watering after stress, the result is guaranteed with a high degree of probability. As paradoxical as it may sound, rhododendrons love to be looked after, visited often, and even talked to. There is nothing complicated about this. All living things love care and affection and respond gratefully to them.

I bought a blooming one evergreen rhododendron, planted it in the country. The first year it bloomed well, but the next year no flowers appeared. Tell me how to achieve flowering?

There may be several reasons for the lack of flowering. For example:
1. You may have planted your rhododendron in soil that is not acidic enough. In the first year, he had enough food from a peat ball that was in a pot. Then the root system developed and ended up in soil with a different acidity. Rhododendrons develop normally only in acidic soil pH 3.5-5.
2. Wrong choice of location. The place where the rhododendron grows must be protected from the winds. In winter, rhododendrons suffer not so much from frost as from cold wind.
3. Malnutrition. It is necessary to use special fertilizers for rhododendrons and azaleas, the first time early spring, then after flowering. This contributes to the formation of flower buds for next year.
4. Spring burns. To avoid burning, cover your bush with spunbond in early spring.
5. And very important point- insufficient watering. Watering should be intensive during the budding period and during the period of intensive growth. If this moment is missed, it will negatively affect the formation of flower buds next year.

Rhododendrons are evergreen shrubs belonging to one of the largest genera of the heather family. They bloom very beautifully in spring.

There are three main forms of rhododendrons: deciduous, evergreen and intermediate. The first ones are the easiest to grow, since they overwinter without leaves, wake up in the spring, and are very beautiful during flowering. Their features include decorative painting leaves in autumn. They come in all sorts of shades of red-orange-purple, bringing a vibrant color accent In the autumn color scheme of the garden, the leaves fall only towards the end of November.

An intermediate option is semi-evergreen forms. They are usually small in size, so they winter without problems under snow cover. The plant sheds most of its leathery, blueberry-like leaves in winter. In the spring, during flowering, several pairs of leaves remain on the bushes surrounding the flower buds.

There is an opinion that rhododendrons are difficult to grow. But this is a myth. These plants are better adapted to cold climates than roses, because they are mountain “dwellers”. Moderate watering and shading from the scorching rays of the sun are the main requirements of this culture.

If you are willing to spend a little effort and time caring for these beauties, then they will certainly give you lush blooms.

First of all, you need to choose the right place. As a rule, evergreen forms require diffuse shade. The pine forest is the perfect place. Rhododendrons will grow excellently under trees with a deep root system - oaks, larches, and are also suitable for neighborhood garden trees: hawthorns, serviceberry, apple trees, pears, cherries. But maples, willows, alder, linden, spruce, poplar and elm are undesirable neighbors.

Also, for rhododendrons, planting on a hill is preferable: even a flower bed raised 15 - 20 cm above the level of the path will provide your handsome plant with decent conditions. After all, these plants often die from the root ball becoming soaked. They need to be provided with natural growing conditions: air- and moisture-intensive soil with an acidic reaction environment. Since rhododendrons have shallow roots, you should not dig a deep planting hole. It is enough to remove 30 - 40 cm of soil and replace garden soil onto a specially prepared earthen substrate consisting of a mixture of sand, pine litter (preferably pine), sawdust coniferous species and high-moor peat (sour). Peat is one of the main components of the soil for rhododendrons.

To the relocation of rhododendrons to permanent place residence needs to be prepared. Before planting, you need to thoroughly wet the soil ball of the plants. For this you can use plain water or a solution of any growth stimulator. But you need to soak not for 10 - 20 minutes, as recommended on the label, but for a day. Otherwise, in a short time, the peat substrate in which the plant is grown in a container does not have time to become saturated with moisture. It is because of this banal mistake that improperly planted rhododendrons die. Moreover, this death is slow; plants sometimes die within two to three years.

If you planted the purchased rhododendron incorrectly, dig up the plant, thoroughly soak the earthen ball with water, and then return it to its place. This can be done either in early spring or in July - August.

Rhododendrons don't like to be disturbed root system, so loosening the soil under them is a very dubious task. It is best to mulch the soil around them after planting. This will protect the plants from moisture loss and weeds. Decorative wood chips, pine nut shells, beautiful pebbles are suitable for this; you can use ordinary pine litter, spread in a layer of at least 3 cm.

Rhododendrons do not tolerate drought; the soil under them should always be moist. Therefore, sprinkling for them is the most best option glaze.

In hot summer weather, it is advisable to carry out additional spraying of plants, providing their leaves with moist conditions. And do not forget to acidify the soil every month during the summer, water the plants with a solution of 9 percent vinegar (50 g per 1 liter of water), citric acid(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or vinegar essence(1 drop per 1 liter of water).

We consider caring for rhododendron in open ground spring, summer, autumn and winter. The following are described in detail: watering, fertilizing, fertilizers, pruning and flowering, as well as preparation for winter, pests and diseases.

Plus regional features: Moscow region, Ural, Siberia, North-West (Leningrad region) and the Middle zone.

How to care for rhododendron in the garden in spring and summer?

Planting lays the foundation for further plant care in open ground. If it is planted in suitable place to the right one soil mixture, That further care much simpler. We described how to do this correctly in a special material - see the bottom of the page.

In spring, the flower awakens after winter and you need to help it recover, save it from drying out and rotting. Caring for rhododendron in spring and summer consists of regular watering and spraying, fertilizing, pruning and disease prevention.

Saving the kidneys from drying out

1. After active snow melting (mid-March - early April), the soil can slowly thaw and the sun can become hot. The evaporation of moisture from the buds and leaves increases, and the roots are constrained and have not awakened.
2. Therefore, free the bush from last year’s frozen mulch (you can loosen it and remove half the layer) so that the ground near the roots thaws faster.
   This will allow the roots to start working and save the buds from drying out. It is especially important to remove the mulch quickly if the winter was cold or with little snow.
3. Water the rose tree hot water(even boiling water) and spray with warm water.
4. If the rhododendron overwintered without shelter, then make a protective shield from the sun on the south and west sides. Drive in the stakes and stretch the fabric. Read more in the article “Preparing for winter” - link at the bottom of the page.
5. After complete thawing of the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm (beginning - mid-April), on a cloudy day or in the evening, remove the protective cover (covering material) or winter shelter.

If you still find signs of burns on the shoots, the buds have dried out and do not begin to grow, then spray them with warm water every day, and every 3-4 days with a growth stimulator (Zircon, Epin, etc.).

Rhododendron flower buds in spring after removing winter cover

Rhododendron pruning

Trim the plant only if necessary (once every 2-5 years): if you need to update old copy, shorten a bush that is too tall or remove frozen stems.

Classic formative pruning is not needed due to the fact that natural shape plants are correct and attractive in 99% of cases.

Rules

• Carry out pruning before the buds swell (mid-March - early April).
• The cut should be made directly above the dormant growth point - a small pinkish swelling-thickening. Be sure to learn how to identify them.
• Treat each cut with garden varnish.
• Provide pruned specimens with regular watering and fertilizing during the active growing season.

Species features

1. Small deciduous species need to be rejuvenated every 5-7 years, and large ones (Canadian and others) every 14-18 years.
2. Small-leaved evergreen species up to 4-5 years old need to be pruned to stimulate branching. If desired, you can even create a ball shape. Since powerful flowering is observed even in 20-25 year old branches, they are rarely pruned.
3. Evergreen species with large leaves cut off 1-3 shoots from their total number every spring so that the lateral branches develop better. Otherwise, in a few years these shoots will become ugly and long branches with leaves only at the top. The leaves themselves will become small and the flowering will be weak.

How to trim a large bush?

Trim the shoots in places 2-4 cm thick near dormant buds. After 20-25 days, the dormant buds will wake up and begin to grow, and next year the decorative appearance of the bush will be restored.

How to rejuvenate a bush?

To rejuvenate very old bushes or those seriously damaged by frost and wind, cut the branches at a level of 30-40 cm from the soil near dormant buds: first one half, and after a year the other, to facilitate rehabilitation.

Rejuvenating pruning of evergreen rhododendron after an unsuccessful winter

Advice

If you want a thick and spreading deciduous rhododendron, then pinch out seasonal shoots in June for the first 3-4 years after planting, and cut off all weak stems inside the crown in September.

How to water rhododendron?

A deficiency or excess of water is undesirable for a plant. Prolonged lack of water prevents the seasonal growth of shoots, impairs flowering and reduces decorativeness (leaves dry out, turn yellow, and old leaves fall off en masse).

• Leaves signal a lack of moisture. Due to the loss of turgor, they droop, wither and acquire a matte tint. Lack of watering aggravates the situation: the leaves turn yellow, brown (edges and central vein), dry out and die.

“Rosewood” is harmed by stagnation of water, and it is sensitive to excessive amounts of moisture in the soil. This disrupts the development of the flower, since little oxygen reaches the roots. At the same time, the leaves also turn yellow, wither and fall off.

The frequency of watering is affected by the planting location, the composition of the soil mixture and climatic conditions. Rhododendron, planted in a favorable location and in the correct soil mixture, needs less frequent watering.

Ideally, determine the frequency of watering yourself based on the condition of the leaves and the amount of precipitation. As soon as they become dull (the shine has disappeared) and droop a little, they need moisture. Therefore, watch for these signs and accumulate your personal experience.

The most important periods for watering: active growth and development (April - mid-July) and preparation for winter (mid-September - November).

April - July

During the period of intensive growing season, during the flowering period and after it, there is an increased need for moisture; the root ball should not be allowed to dry out. Therefore, every 4-7 days, water with 10-14 liters of water. trunk circle under an adult bush.

If spring and summer are hot and there is little rain, then you need to water more often and supplement with spraying. Every 2-3 days, early in the morning or late evening, spray the leaves with water.

August and September

At the same time, in August and September it is necessary to water less often - 10-14 liters of water every 8-12 days, otherwise secondary growth of stems is possible.

Loosening the soil

Others believe that it is advisable to weed 3-4 times over the summer, but very carefully: loosen 1-2 times in one place 3-4 cm deep.

Adviсe

Water for watering and spraying the “rose tree” should be soft and acidified (pH 4.0-5.0) - a teaspoon of citric or oxalic acid per 10 liters of water.

Feeding and fertilizers

Proper feeding ensures good growth and development, powerful and beautiful flowering, and also increases the resistance of rhododendron to adverse external factors (pests, frost, disease, wind).

• The most important periods: March - April and immediately after flowering.

It is advisable to use liquid fertilizer. In this case, the nutrient solution requires a low concentration, since rhododendron grows slowly and the roots lie close to the surface.

Signs of need for feeding

Light, pale leaves without shine. Yellowish-green shoots. Small seasonal increase. Weak or no flowering. Old leaves fall off en masse in August.

Change in leaf color is the first symptom of nutrient deficiency.

What fertilizer to use for rhododendrons?

A good option would be to use a special fertilizer; it has a balanced composition of mineral elements and rapid solubility. You can also use complex mineral fertilizers, for example “Kemira-universal” and organic.

Organic fertilizers

According to experts, organic fertilizers are more preferable because they are better absorbed than mineral ones and improve the soil (looseness, moisture and air permeability).

• Of these, it is better to use: blood meal, semi-rotted cow dung and horn meal. Do not use: bird droppings, pig and horse manure.

Fill the semi-rotted manure with water 1:15-20 and leave for 3-4 days. Before fertilizing, water the bush (the root ball should be completely wet). Can only be used from April to the end of June.

In spring or autumn, semi-rotted manure can be scattered near the bush in a 4-5 cm layer on the surface of the ground, so that the necessary elements feed it with the incoming moisture from rain or melting snow.

Mineral fertilizers

Since rosewood prefers acidic soils, it is necessary to use acidic fertilizers. These are mainly: potassium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium phosphate and sulfates - ammonium, potassium, calcium and magnesium. Fertilizers containing chlorine are prohibited.

The nutrient solution for feeding should be 0.1-0.2% i.e. 1 gram of substance per liter of water, and potash fertilizers – 0,05-0,1%.

Feeding schedule

After winter, rhododendron needs to be fed, and if the acidity level has increased (“”), then the soil needs to be slightly acidified.

To acidify, add a tablespoon of vinegar, oxalic or citric acid. Especially if the bush grows on loamy or sandy soil.

1. After the snow melts (late March - early April), water the plant with mullein infusion or dissolve 20 grams of ammonium sulfate, 6 grams of potassium sulfate and 8 grams of superphosphate in 10 liters of water.
   After this, immediately mulch the tree trunk circle with a 6-8 cm layer pine sawdust or peat.
   Such mulch will reduce acidity, retain moisture longer and prevent the active growth of weeds. The base of the bush cannot be covered; it is better to sprinkle it with coarse sand to prevent rot and stagnation of water.
2. After 20-25 days or 10-14 days before flowering (beginning of budding). Same composition.
3. During flowering or immediately after it. To make the bush bloom more powerfully or regain its strength: 8 grams of superphosphate and 6 grams of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.

To maintain the required soil acidity after the first and second fertilizing, it is advisable to water with the following solution: 8 grams of potassium phosphate and potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water. If you watered it with mullein infusion, then there is no need.

2nd option

1. Before flowering. Apply 20-30 grams of special fertilizer or Kemira Universal fertilizer (2-3 grams per liter) under the bush. In any of the options, add nitrogen for growth: 5-10 grams of carbamide (urea) or ammonium nitrate.
2. Immediately after flowering. Similar feeding.
3. Late July – early August. 30 g superphosphate, 15 g potassium sulfate + 10 g complex mineral fertilizer for 10 liters of water. Fertilizing accelerates the lignification of shoots and prevents their growth in late summer - early autumn.

3rd option

1. After the snow melts (late March - early April). Scatter over the surface of the earth per 1 m2 or a specimen above 100 cm: 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g each of potassium sulfate and superphosphate or 50 g each of ammonium sulfate and magnesium.
2. After flowering (late May - early June). 20 grams of ammonium sulfate and 10 grams of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

This option is much lighter than liquid fertilizers and suitable for those who have a large number of plants planted.

Adviсe

• Do not use fertilizers that reduce soil acidity, such as wood ash.
• Do not use slow-release granular fertilizers as they may cause secondary growth of stems in August that will freeze in the winter. They are designed for the European climate with six warm months a year.
• If secondary growth does begin, then spray the bush with potassium sulfate - 10 grams per liter of water.
• The editors of the Flower Festival magazine recommend using more organic fertilizers than mineral ones.

Disease Prevention

At the end of April - beginning of May, spill or spray the “rose tree” with copper-containing fungicides (copper oxychloride “HOM”, copper sulfate).

Preventative treatments are especially important for the species: Canada, Ledebur and evergreen species.

Rhododendron blossom

All gardeners expect unique and powerful flowering of the bush every year. Despite his attractive appearance all season long, it is the luxurious inflorescences that create maximum decorativeness and captivate millions of eyes.

When does rhododendron bloom or flowering time?

The timing of flowering depends on the climatic conditions of a particular area and year, the variety and condition of the plant. Typically the flowering period lasts from April to June. Early flowering species (Daurian, Canadian, Ledebura) bloom in mid-late April and in early-mid May they stop blooming.

Then the evergreen large-leaved species begin to bloom in early to mid-May, and are soon joined by deciduous species and varieties based on them.

How long or how long does rhododendron bloom?

Flowering period for different types and varieties is different quantities days, on average 16-20 (30-45). The duration of flowering depends on many factors: amount of light, temperature, species characteristics, amount of nutrients, etc.

Care after flowering

To ensure that the “rose tree” blooms profusely every year, break out the inflorescences immediately after they have bloomed (there will be no seeds!). The inflorescence at the base breaks off effortlessly with your hands, but you need to be careful not to damage the young shoots.

This procedure will help the bush direct all its forces to the formation of lateral buds and abundant flowering next season. It will also become more lush, because not one, but 2-3 young shoots will appear at the base of the inflorescence.

Then water the plant generously and feed it with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

• It is especially important to break out the inflorescences of large-leaved species.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky "Grandiflorum" (Grandiflorum)

Rhododendron: care in autumn and preparation for winter

Caring for rhododendron in the fall comes down to preparing for wintering, which includes proper watering, disease prevention, mulching and, if necessary, protection with covering material or construction of a shelter.

Watering

In September we water more often than in August, and in October we need abundant watering before winter, especially in dry autumn and for evergreen species and varieties. Water them until the November frosts. If it is not possible to go to the country in November, then it is better to plant only deciduous rhododendrons.

In rainy autumn, often in the Moscow region and Leningrad region, watering is rare.

• A sufficient amount of moisture in September – October – November contributes to the successful wintering of the plant, increases its endurance, and drought reduces resistance to external negative factors.

Disease Prevention

At the end of September - beginning of October (before frost), treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate or a copper-containing fungicide to prevent fungal diseases.

Preparing for winter and sheltering for the winter

By the beginning of October, the bush should have formed flower (large, round) and growth (smaller and sharper) buds next year. The main task is to preserve these buds until spring from freezing, burns, breakage and drying out.

• Since this is a very serious point in caring for rhododendron, we covered it in a special article - see the link at the bottom of the page.

Pests and diseases

Depending on the species and variety, the susceptibility of rhododendrons to diseases and pests differs. According to the observations of flower growers, in the open and sunny area evergreen species are more likely to suffer from pests and diseases than in light partial shade.

At the same time, a strong and strong plant is less susceptible to encountering “uninvited guests.” That's why, proper care in open ground behind rhododendron and here it is of decisive importance.

Pests

Possible problems during cultivation

Why do rhododendron leaves have brown leaves?

Often the leaves become brown(central vein and edges) not due to any fungal disease, but due to lack of moisture. This is the main factor.

The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry out due to sunburn in spring or moisture deficiency due to heat.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

In addition to a lack or excess of moisture, the reason often lies in low acidity of the soil. Set aside and acidify the water before watering, feed with a buffer solution - the composition in the first feeding option.

Flower buds fall off

Reason – high temperature air and low humidity.

Why do the leaves curl?

Flowers wither due to insufficient watering or low humidity. Spray the plant more often.

If this happened after the first autumn frosts, then there is no need to worry - this is a natural process. Read about this in the article “Preparing for winter.”

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish proper development and beautiful flowering!

Here is another, in my opinion, most interesting article about rhododendrons, taken from the magazine Magic garden. Let's read and learn the skill, take notes!

"Readers ask us to tell you more about rhododendrons. Planting material is available for sale. Many people buy them, groom and cherish them. But is the gardener always satisfied with the result of his work? Often the rhododendron does not show such magnificent flowering as in magazines, or even dies in the first winter There are a number of reasons for this, and mainly this is a violation of agricultural technology and the choice of non-winter-hardy species or varieties.

The fact is that the genus rhododendron is the largest genus in the heather family. Exact number It is difficult to name species, since many of them grow in hard-to-reach areas and have been little studied, but there are definitely more than 1000 of them.

Most species are distributed in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere, in the mountains East Asia, but there are rhododendrons that grow in the tropical zone. Therefore, before you buy the plant you like, you need to find out whether it is suitable for Middle zone Russia.

Unfortunately, stores do not write such information on labels. But with a high probability we can say that imported material brought from warmer Europe will be less winter-hardy than seedlings from local nurseries.

THE MOST RESISTANT RHODODENDRONS

For more than 30 years, the Botanical Garden of UNN has been working on testing and acclimatizing these wonderful plants. During this period, dozens of species of rhododendrons passed through our hands. Many could not stand our cold winters. But a number of species not only winter well in our conditions, but also delight abundant flowering almost every year.

These are primarily North American species. Total in North America There are 29 species of rhododendrons. We tested 17 species (6 evergreen and 11 deciduous). All of them, with the exception of two, are completely stable in our conditions. And four species: Canadian rhododendron, p. grayish, b. holly and r. Vazea are the most winter-hardy in our collection.

Today we will talk about these types of rhododendrons; this is where an inexperienced gardener should start.

These types of rhododendrons do not have the largest flowers, they do not have a wide variety of colors, they can be called “Cinderellas” among other types of rhododendrons. But during the flowering period they simply amaze the imagination! These are real pink clouds of flowers, behind which no branches or leaves are visible.

The first of this group to bloom is the Canadian rhododendron; it is the shortest. Height up to one meter. Its leaves are small, bluish-green. The flowers are medium-sized, lilac-pink, graceful and butterfly-like, since, unlike most other rhododendrons, their upper petals are wider and shorter than the lower ones.

During flowering the mass pink flowers with long stamens creates the impression of a fluffy pink cloud. Also, Canadian rhododendron has delicate white-flowered forms. This species is not afraid of our frosts.

Following the Canadian one, the Vazeya rhododendron is blooming. This is a deciduous tall shrub (ours is about 1.5 meters tall). The leaves are large, very beautiful, and in the fall they turn crimson! The flowers are light pink or white with a short tube and beautiful crimson specks on the upper petals. At the ends of the branches they are collected in inflorescences of 5-8 pieces. The flowers bloom even before the leaves, which gives the plant additional charm.

Following this species comes the turn of the holly and grey-leaved rhododendrons.

Gray rhododendrons and holly rhododendrons are very close to each other in morphology. The ranges of these two species in their homeland overlap, they easily interbreed and produce hybrids both in nature and in culture, so they can be difficult to distinguish from each other. They are often confused and called by the same name - pink rhododendron. In the literature and articles you can find a description of pink rhododendron.

However, this is not entirely correct. Botanists distinguish two species by their pubescence and smell. At the r. holly strong spicy aroma, near the river. grayish - weaker. These species have been noted to have large quantity decorative forms, which differ in shades of color, flower size and number in the inflorescence.

Unique hybrids of these types of rhododendrons have been selected in the Botanical Garden of UNN. For example, in the open-pollinated hybrid "Pink Ball" instead of one flower bud At the end of the shoot, several are formed, and as a result, up to 30 or more fragrant flowers bloom in the inflorescence! The long curved stamens, like “eyelashes” of a brighter color, add a special charm.

The hybrid "Star of the North" amazes with its abundance of flowering and exceptionally delicate shade of flowers. The hybrid "Vostorg" blooms about a week earlier than these hybrids and is characterized by abundant salmon pink flowers.

In autumn, with warm sunny weather, the second peak of rhododendron decorativeness begins. The color of their leaves is unusually beautiful. The many shades of orange, red and yellow tones surprise and delight. Perhaps they are no less beautiful in autumn than in spring.

HOW TO GROW RHODODENDRONS CORRECTLY

The agricultural technology of North American species does not differ from the agricultural technology of other deciduous rhododendrons.

SELECTION OF LOCATION. These species can be grown both in the sun and in a semi-shaded place protected from the wind. On full sun more compact, dense, abundant flowering bushes. This requires regular watering, preferably spraying. In partial shade they bloom less profusely, but a little longer, and the flowers do not fade. The ideal place is under the protection of pine trees or next to thujas. The proximity of trees with a superficial root system is unacceptable: linden, maple, willow, birch, etc.

The planting site is prepared in the fall, and soil mixture is added in the spring as needed. Plant better in group from several copies. One bush planted on the lawn feels uncomfortable.

SOIL PREPARATION. It is the composition and acidity of the soil that play a decisive role in successful cultivation rhododendrons. Failures are suffered by those who ignore their demands and plant in ordinary garden soil.

The soil should be loose, well-drained and acidic (pH 4.5). Best Blend: acidic sphagnum peat (1/3) + coniferous (pine) soil (1/3) + oak leaf soil (1/3) + special complete mineral fertilizer.

Practice shows that on loose soils this composition can be simplified: mix high-moor peat (from the banks of a forest swamp) and pine litter in equal proportions. (Editor's note.)

Garden soil from landing pit you need to remove it and completely replace it with the prepared mixture. The depth of soil replacement is 50-70 cm, depending on the composition of the surrounding soil.

If the soil at the planting site is not suitable for acidity or physical properties, That seat it is necessary to isolate it from it with some kind of material (lay a piece of linoleum or roofing felt along the walls of the pit).

Only at first glance these recommendations seem complicated. In fact, all the components (high-moor peat, pine litter) are easy to find in the forest, and now can be bought in the store. Moreover, you only need to prepare the hole once, and then just add peat and litter on top.

If you compose the soil correctly, then in the future rhododendrons will grow like ordinary unpretentious plants.

LANDING. Rhododendrons are preferably planted in spring. It is necessary to plant from the container after the end of frost. When disembarking, adaptation is required (hold for 5 days outdoors, in partial shade).

Canadian rhododendron can be planted 3 pieces per 1 square meter. m, other types are larger, so not less than 1 sq. m for each copy. After planting, water well and mulch with pine needles or fine bark.

Following several important recommendations, you will ensure that rhododendrons will definitely take root in the garden. Due to the huge variety of species, planting and care may vary somewhat. But they are still united by common growing techniques.

The best time to plant rhododendrons is spring. Over the summer months, the plants will take root and become stronger. When choosing seedlings, do not chase older plants. It is better to wander the baby, who will settle down faster in the new place. Most often, deciduous and evergreen plants are on sale.

Choosing a landing site

The optimal place for rhododendron will be partial shade. Plants should receive sun rays, at least half a day. Rhododendrons do well when there are trees or buildings nearby. This will additionally protect the seedlings from strong winds. Rhododendrons will not be comfortable in the open sun.

Soil

An important component of success is soil preparation. Rhododendrons do not tolerate clayey, heavy, damp places. Therefore, it is so necessary to properly prepare the planting hole. The size of the hole depends on the size of the root system. Experts advise a depth of about 50 cm. But it would be more correct to focus on the root ball. The hole is dug 20 - 35 cm deeper than the height of the root ball and 10 - 25 cm more than its width. Rhododendrons have a shallow root system, and it is very important to put drainage (expanded clay, coarse sand, broken brick, fine gravel), the layer of which is at least 20 cm.

The soil for filling the hole is prepared separately. The following mixture is suitable: leaf soil (3 parts), coniferous forest litter (1 part) and peat (2 parts), you can also use fine coniferous bark. About 60 - 70 g of mineral fertilizer per pit is added to the mixture. Fertilizers should not contain chlorine and calcium. You can use the Kemira Universal fertilizer (now it has a different name, Fertika). When planting, care must be taken not to deepen root collar rhododendron. The plant should be planted the same way it was in the pot. It is allowed to plant 2 - 3 cm deeper, taking into account the plant's settlement.

Care

If the planting pit is well filled, rhododendrons can do without additional feeding for two years. In the future, two main nutritional supplements are applied annually. The first - in early spring in dry form. It includes urea (nitrogen, 2 parts), superphosphate (1 part) and potassium sulfate (1.5 parts). Large doses of superphosphate are dangerous for rhododendrons. Phosphorus inhibits iron absorption, important element in the development of plants, which becomes noticeable on the leaves (chlorosis).

The second time, complex fertilizer is applied in liquid form. It is desirable that the nitrogen content in it be low. It is better to fertilize in low concentrations. Rhododendrons do not accept excess salt.

In dry weather, plants need watering and spraying. Rhododendrons love moist air. After rains or heavy watering, you can loosen the soil around the roots. This should be done carefully, not deeply, so as not to tear the roots. The best solution is mulching with peat, forest needles, and sawdust.