MDF panels are an excellent decorative finishing material, which is characterized high speed installation and the absence of the need for “wet” work at all stages of finishing.

The panels also have their drawbacks (for example, MDF, like any wood, is afraid of water and high humidity, less resistant to mechanical damage compared to synthetic materials, work to restore damage to it is associated with a number of difficulties, etc.).

Fastening MDF panels depends on the type of base and the desired result. The most common type of fastening is mechanical (on the base, a frame is often equipped with wooden or metal guides, to which MDF panels are attached using nails, screws or clamps) and chemical - using adhesives.

The latter method assumes a flat monolithic base, since in this case there is no frame made of profiles or guides.

Glue for MDF - review of the best options

The most commonly used adhesives for MDF panels are:

• Liquid nails. A universal adhesive characterized by high adhesion, resistance to corrosion and moisture. Liquid nails do not react with substrates, unlike deep-penetrating glue.
• Polyurethane (or construction) foam. It is characterized by various properties such as thermal insulation, sound insulation and high adhesion.
• Universal construction adhesive. A wide group of products, divided into many segments and areas of application. For MDF panels, it is necessary to use only those adhesives that provide adhesion to the base materials (brick, concrete, plasterboard, tiles, etc.) and wood (MDF consists of fine sawdust).

The most popular adhesive for MDF panels is liquid nails (TYTAN or TITEBOND Multi).

Besides economic effect when choosing an adhesive, you need to take into account the specifics of working with it (time for initial fixation, final drying time, method of application, service life, necessary tool and materials, etc.).

Installation of MDF panels with glue - instructions

Let's consider the technology for installing MDF using the adhesive compositions indicated above.

Liquid nails(similar to— universal construction adhesives). The thickness of the adhesive layer is only 3-5 mm, so the base on which the panels will be glued must be perfectly flat. Otherwise, the panels will follow all the unevenness of the walls or peel off in places where they do not fit tightly.

Therefore, before gluing MDF panels to the wall, it must be leveled.

1. Degrease the surface, remove all dirt, and putty any crumbling areas.
2. Before starting work, you need to make sure that there are no irregularities using a building code, a long level or other tool.
3. The glue is applied in wave-like movements or in another way (for example, pointwise in large drops) so that it is evenly distributed over the width and length of the panel. The pitch between the adhesive strips determines the force with which the panel will adhere to the base. That is, for example, when installing in places of greatest load, the frequency of application can be increased. Usually this is 10-15 cm. If the manufacturer determines the waiting time before gluing, it is necessary to maintain the required pause.
4. Using a construction bubble or laser level the starting panel is installed at the desired angle (depending on the intended pattern and installation direction). Vertical installation of panels is most often used. You should start from the corner.
5. The glue on the first panel must have time to set to the base before installing subsequent ones (the same principle applies to other difficult junctions, for example, internal or external corners). Setting time depends on the type of glue (see instructions).
6. Thanks to the tongue-and-groove connection, subsequent panels can be installed without waiting (except for the waiting time before gluing).

Corners (internal or external), as well as horizontal and vertical junctions without a tongue-and-groove connection, are covered with decorative moldings (universal MDF corners). The glue should be applied to the middle of each side of the decorative corner (so that when pressed, excess glue does not come out).

The main thing is not to damage the decorative layer of the panels.

Option 2. Polyurethane foam.

Installation technology for MDF panels using construction foam is in many ways similar to installation technology using liquid nails or universal glue, with the only difference that the error of wall unevenness using foam can be higher due to a significant increase in foam volume.

The waiting time before gluing the MDF panel to the base depends on the requirements of the foam manufacturer.

VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

Basic installation errors

For liquid nails:

• Do not overexpose the glue before installing the panel on the base. Otherwise, adhesion will be significantly lower.
• Incorrect application of glue - MDF panels will lose their attractive appearance if glue gets on the decorative front surface.
• Wiping off excess glue with a heavily dampened rag may cause the decorative coating to peel off.

For polyurethane foam:

• For gluing, use foam with a low shrinkage coefficient and professional tool(high-quality guns for construction foam can smoothly and strictly dose regulate its supply).
• If you do not wait for the first panel to set, then when subsequent panels move, the foam may collapse and not be fixed to the base.

Question: why can’t you glue MDF onto liquid nails?

Liquid nails glue is distinguished by its versatility. It is suitable for installation large number various building materials. And if “wood” is included in the list of materials to be glued, then liquid nails are not only possible, but also must be used for gluing MDF panels.

Often, ordinary people can confuse “liquid nails” glue with sealants or silicones (they are applied using the same tool, the tube is very similar to the tube of liquid nails and in the store they can be on the same shelf).

However, sealants for gluing MDF panels are not recommended, since their main purpose is to fix plumbing products and seal seams.

Decorating walls with MDF panels has recently become increasingly popular, due to the fact that with their help you can quickly tidy up surfaces of a fairly large area. In addition, installation of the panels will not take much time, since you will not have to wait for numerous layers to dry, as, for example, in the case of plastering work. It also helps that the surface leveled by them does not require any additional finishing, as is the case with drywall. Another advantage of this material is its quite affordable price.

MDF panels wall installation with your own hands, which can be done even if there is absolutely no experience in this work, they are installed quite simply. The main thing is to understand the principle of such cladding, prepare the surfaces and pay attention to special attention accurate calculations and markings.

What are MDF panels?

The abbreviation “MDF” stands for finely dispersed fraction, from which this finishing material is produced, including wall panels. The production of MDF involves the process of dry pressing a finely dispersed mass of sawdust and chips, using high temperatures and pressure. To bind the mass, urea resins modified with melamine are added to it, which prevents the evaporation of formaldehyde by chemically binding it (formaldehyde emission class - E1). MDF panels are considered an environmentally friendly material, so they are not prohibited from being used for interior decoration premises. The principle of installing panels is similar to installing natural wood panels, but they have a lower price than the latter.

Installation wall MDF panels can be installed in two ways - by attaching them to a frame sheathing or fixing them to the wall surface using an adhesive composition such as “liquid nails”. This glue is used not only for installing wood products and its products, but also for sealing cracks, since it contains sawdust filler. If filling of defects will be carried out on the remaining visible areas of the wall, then the adhesive mass should be selected according to color so that the repaired areas do not stand out against the general background.

MDF panels are produced in a wide variety of shades and can have a textured micro-relief pattern that imitates various types of wood or stone, so they can be matched to any interior design. In addition, the panels are easily combined with each other and can be installed vertically or horizontally, depending on what effect the owners want to achieve.

For example, if the ceiling is too high and makes the room uncomfortable, you can install the panels horizontally, using different shades alternately. If you need to visually raise the wall, then the panels are installed vertically.

Panels are produced different lengths and width, therefore, before choosing the color and shape of the material, you need to think about what effect you will need to achieve.

Tools for finishing work

To make your work comfortable, you need to prepare tools in advance that will speed up the installation of the finishing material, making it as simple as possible. So, the tools you will need are:

• Electric jigsaw or vertical saw.
• Construction level and plumb line.
• Roulette, metal ruler and a construction corner, a simple pencil or marker.
• An electric drill, a screwdriver, or even a regular screwdriver.
• Construction stapler.
• Hammer.
• Pliers.

Basic methods of installing MDF panels and the materials required for this

To install MDF, you will need certain auxiliary materials. Moreover, the purchase of some of them will depend on the choice of mounting method.

Installation of panels on walls can be done in two ways:

• Glue.
• Frame.

Both methods can be used to install panels both in a private house and in an apartment, but for adhesive installation the basic condition must be met - the wall must be perfectly flat. Therefore, if the panels will stick to the surface, then it must first be leveled with plasterboard or the plaster-putty method.

To install the panels with glue, you will need very few auxiliary materials - this is a composition of “liquid nails” and fittings.

If you need to level an uneven wall using MDF panels, while hiding communications behind it or installing insulation and sound insulation, you will first have to install a frame that will bring the entire future surface into one plane.

The frame for installing panels can be made of wooden beam or metal profile. It must be said that it is easier to attach MDF to wooden material, since nails or even staples are suitable for this. When installing panels on a metal profile, metal screws will be needed, and in this case it will no longer be possible to do without them.

When using a frame, a gap will inevitably form between the main wall and the cladding, in which there will be no ventilation air circulation - such conditions are very “attractive” for mold and mildew. Therefore, before installing the sheathing, it is necessary to inspect the wall. If it is wet, it will first need to be dried and then treated with special antiseptic compounds. To external thin walls nevertheless, it is better not to install such cladding at all, since it will quickly become unusable, and in addition, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room over time, which can cause allergic reactions in residents.

To install the facing panels on the frame, you will need the following materials:

• A wooden beam treated with antiseptic compounds, with a section of 15×30, 20×30, 20×40 or 20×50 mm, or a galvanized metal profile - the same as that used when installing drywall.
• The insulation material is foamed polyethylene of selected thickness.
• Metal straight hangers that will help align the guides exactly in one plane.

• Clamps for fastening panels to the frame.

• Small nails or staples for a stapler.
• Dowels for attaching brackets (hangers) or direct guides to the wall.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.
• Fitting profile elements - corner and plinth. It should be noted that the design of the corner for MDF panels is convenient in that it can be used for decorating both external and internal joint planes, even at different angles.

Preparing the wall surface for cladding with MDF panels

Surface preparation can only be carried out if it is dry. If signs are found on it high humidity, you must first determine the cause of this phenomenon and then try to eliminate it. There is no way to cover a damp wall with any panels.

If there are no such obstacles to the installation of MDF panels, then approximately the same preparation of the wall surface is carried out both for the frame system and for gluing. It consists of several operations:

• Cleaning the wall.

If the wall is covered with wallpaper, then it must be completely removed, otherwise in a closed space it can become a breeding ground for mold or even insects. High-quality wallpaper that is difficult to remove must first be wetted with water or steamed with an iron, and then scraped off with a spatula. Sometimes you have to resort to using special compounds for.

If the wall is plastered and whitewashed, or painted with high-quality water-based paint, then it is not necessary to clean it.

• Wall treatment.

In the case where there are mold stains on the wall, the surface must be “treated” - treated with a special “Anti-Mold” compound or with a regular concentrated laundry bleaching agent “Whiteness”. Before treatment, it is recommended to clean the surface to the maximum possible depth with a spatula. When the applied composition is absorbed and dried, the wall must be cleaned again with a spatula, and then the treatment must be repeated. It is advisable to clean the area affected by the fungus down to the base, that is, remove the plaster in this place completely and thoroughly treat the main wall itself.

“Treatment” of affected areas of the wall with antiseptic compounds

This work should be carried out in compliance with mandatory safety measures, wearing a respirator or a special mask, in order to avoid inhaling particles of fungus-affected plaster.

• Sealing cracks.

If, after removing wallpaper or “weak” plaster, cracks are found on the wall, it is recommended to repair them, especially when planning to place heat and soundproofing materials. Cracks must be sealed so that they do not become bridges of cold, and also a place where dampness accumulates, various insects or even mold can find refuge.

The cracks are first cut in breadth and depth, ...

In order for the putty or plaster solution to adhere well to the gap in the crack, it needs to be slightly widened and deepened. Then it is cleaned of the remnants of old plaster and processed using a brush.

... and then tightly filled with repair mortar

After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with a putty mixture or plaster solution. In this case, it is necessary to try to ensure that the expanded gap is filled to its entire depth.

• Surface primer.

The next step is priming the entire surface of the walls. Moreover, it is necessary to choose a primer composition containing antiseptic components that will resist the occurrence and development of mold, as well as other manifestations harmful to humans.

Mandatory operation - thorough priming of the entire surface of the wall

If you plan to sheathe wooden walls, it is recommended to choose a primer that contains not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants - they will increase the fire resistance of the wood.

The primer is applied to the wall using a roller in two or three layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before applying the next.

• Installation of insulating material.

Next, if the panels will be attached to the sheathing, you can proceed to gluing the insulating material. Penofol, which is glued to a primed surface, is well suited for this purpose.

The most convenient to use is penofol with a self-adhesive base.

Today you can find self-adhesive “penofol” on sale - you can very easily fix it on the wall with foil towards the room by removing the protective film backing. If such material is not found, then ordinary “penofol” is purchased. It is cut to the height of the wall and glued to Teploflex glue, applied in an even layer to the wall surface or directly to the insulation. The “penofol” sheets are pressed to the surface, and the air is expelled from under it using a rubber spatula.

Gluing the joints of adjacent penofol strips with tape

Sheets of material are mounted end-to-end, and then the glue must be allowed to dry, after which the joints are sealed with special foil tape.

Installation of frame structure

Carrying out marking

If you decide to install MDF panels on a frame, you first need to decide how the elements will be installed, vertically or horizontally, since the location of the sheathing guides depends on this factor. For horizontal orientation of the panels, the guide battens are mounted vertically. And vice versa, if the panels are mounted vertically, the frame elements are installed perpendicular to them, horizontally.

The frame is fixed on top of the insulating material. The pitch between the sheathing guides is usually selected within 500÷600 mm from each other, and they must be installed perfectly evenly.

To find the ideal vertical, you need to use a plumb line with a colored cord, with which you can mark straight lines on the wall. If lines are marked on a foil surface, then immediately after marking, each of them is additionally highlighted with a black marker using a ruler.

To determine the horizontal I resort to the help of a level. Most exact result will give laser or water. If there are no such tools, then you can use a regular construction tool, pushing the bubble into the middle with special care. Having outlined the currents, they are also connected by lines using a colored cord.

Based on the markings, it will be quite easy to correctly secure the guide battens.

When marking, you need to take into account that the first frame guide is installed at the junction of two surfaces, that is, in the corner of the room or along the floor surface. The first racks will serve as a reference line for the remaining elements, maintaining the established step.

Wooden frame

Wooden blocks, despite the marking lines, when installed on a wall are still checked with a building level for evenness. Then, they are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes are drilled directly through the beams into which plastic dowels are driven, after which self-tapping screws are screwed into them (or driven dowel-nails are used). Fastening elements are installed at a distance of 350÷400 mm from each other. The length of the dowels or self-tapping screws is selected so that they extend into the thickness of the wall by at least 50÷60 mm, and the thickness of the sheathing beam is added to this parameter, taking into account that the head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.

It is more difficult to bring all the posts of the sheathing to the same level if the wall requires leveling with sheathing, and the bars themselves will have to be secured to hangers. In this case, the installation of the frame is carried out in the same way for wooden bars and metal profiles.

First, hangers are attached to the wall along the marking lines. I fix them on the wall with two dowels, maintaining a spacing between adjacent ones of 350÷400 mm from each other. The shelves of the hangers are bent perpendicular to the wall surface.

Then the two outermost beams on the wall are installed, leveled and relative to the wall. They are attached on both sides with self-tapping screws to the shelves of the suspensions. The protruding parts of the shelves are bent back towards the wall.

The installed outer guides are connected along the outer edge with stretched cords at the top and bottom (or right and left - if the frame is horizontally oriented) - these will become reference lines (beacons) for correct installation the remaining guides in a single plane.

Metal frame

Metal profiles prepared to size are fixed to the wall according to the same principle as wooden blocks, but sometimes for structural rigidity they have liners made of timber. To secure the profile, hangers must be used, even if the wall is perfectly flat and the racks will fit closely to it.

If the frame is mounted on a wooden wall, then the hangers for attaching the sheathing guides are fixed to the wall using wood screws. If installation on another wall base is necessary, then the hangers are best secured with driven dowel-nails.

If the trim is attached to a wall that has a window or doorway, then appropriate guides must be installed along its edge, on which the cladding will first be attached, and subsequently the slopes and trims.

Installation of MDF panels on a frame

Before installing the cladding, all electrical or other cable communications are carried out and secured under the frame, immediately determining the installation locations of sockets and switches, if they are provided on the wall being finished.

Installation begins with the preparation of MDF panels - they need to be cut to the height or length of the wall. The panels are marked using a tape measure and a construction angle, the corresponding lines are drawn along which the cut is made using a jigsaw, a manual vertical circular saw, or even an ordinary hacksaw.

• The first panel must be leveled until the ideal vertical (or horizontal) is achieved, otherwise the entire cladding will then be skewed.
• The starting panel is installed with a tenon in the corner and secured to the guides on the corner side in two or three places with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, clamps are inserted into the groove of the panel at the places where it intersects with the sheathing guides, through which it is finally fixed with nails or staples to wooden frame. When using metal frame The clamps are fixed using small self-tapping screws with a low head so that, after being fully screwed in, it does not interfere with subsequent installation.

• To begin with, the tenon of each next panel is tightly driven into the groove of the already installed one - this joining edge is already fixed. Mandatory level adjustment of the panel is carried out, since the configuration of this connection allows for a certain backlash. After precise alignment, the panel is fixed in the same way with clamps.
• So continue the cladding until the end of the wall (or until the end of the section, for example, to the doorway). The last panel on the plane is cut to its thickness so that it fits freely into the groove, leaving a gap of about 5 mm in the corner. The final fixation of the final panel is carried out with self-tapping screws, directly through it. It's okay - the fastener caps at the beginning and end of the lined wall will be hidden decorative corners.

Horizontal installation of panels is carried out in the direction from floor to ceiling, and the first panel must also be perfectly level. Fastening to the sheathing follows exactly the same principle as with a vertical arrangement.

• The panel on which the socket or switch is to be installed is pre-cut round hole with a diameter corresponding to the size of a standard socket box (usually 67 mm). Drilling is carried out using a core drill.

The socket must be securely fastened and not bend when inserting the plug of electrical appliances. To ensure rigid support against the wall, it is recommended to additionally secure wooden fragments of suitable thickness on the back side. The front part of the socket and switch is screwed onto cladding panels or to the corresponding sockets of the electrical outlet.

Installation of MDF panels with glue

It is somewhat easier to install MDF panels with glue than with lathing, but using this method, it will not be possible to install insulation.

• To install the first panel, you need to mark a vertical or horizontal line on the wall, depending on how you plan to install it.

When gluing, the position of the panel must be checked by level.

• Particular attention should be paid to the choice of adhesive for working with MDF panels - it must have some special properties:

— The glue must remain sufficiently plastic even after its initial hardening, otherwise there is a risk of deformation of the panels. A composition must be selected that will not be affected by humidity and temperature changes.

— The glue must have a sufficiently thick consistency so that it can be applied in a thick or thin layer, depending on the circumstances, and also be evenly distributed over the surface to be glued.

The best option- “liquid nails” glue

The “Liquid Nails” composition precisely meets these requirements in terms of basic parameters. The primer with which the walls are treated in advance will create good adhesion for the glue on their surface, so the panels will adhere securely to it.

• The glue is applied to the back side of the MDF lining in dotted or wavy lines. The panel with the glue applied is first pressed firmly against the wall, and then torn off and left to “weather” the glue for 3-5 minutes. After this, for final fixation, the panel is reinstalled and pressed into in the right place, and is held on the wall surface for several seconds until the adhesive composition has set securely.

The adhesive can be applied to the back side of the panels pointwise or in a “snake” pattern.

Therefore, in order to speed up the gluing process, the composition is applied immediately to 8 ÷ 10 canvases, which are pressed against the wall and then torn off. Having spread, applied and torn off the last of the 10 panels, they glue the first, second and so on until it comes to the last. When installing the canvases, they need to be pressed very well against the wall surface, and for better fixation, you can even grab each of them with self-tapping screws in two places. They are screwed into the groove of the panel, and then the self-tapping screw is closed with the installed tenon of the next one.

• If the trim is installed horizontally, it is recommended to wait until the glue under the lowest fixed panel has dried well - it is necessary to create a reliable support for the remaining panels. If there is no time to wait, then the panel can also be secured to the wall with self-tapping screws.
• The last mounted panel, if necessary, is reduced in width - it is measured, lined up and the excess part is sawed off using a jigsaw. In the corner, the last panel is screwed to the sheathing or wall with a self-tapping screw.
• The final installation elements are corner fittings and plinths. The corners are glued at the junctions of two planes using “liquid nails,” covering the heads of the screws that secure the panels to the corners of the wall. In the same way, these fittings are fixed around door and window openings(if special profiles are not used - platbands or slopes).

They can be mounted in different ways, depending on the chosen design - glued with the same glue, installed on special fasteners, or screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall surface. Attaching skirting boards to the floor would be a very serious mistake.

Find out how to produce by reading step by step instructions in an article on our portal.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing walls with MDF panels

Having become familiar with technological process installation of MDF panels, we can, summing up, formulate their main positive and negative qualities.

So to merits Such finishing material includes the following qualities:

• Quite simple installation with the ability to mount panels both vertically and horizontally.
• A wide variety of colors and textured patterns will allow you to choose a finish to suit every taste and interior style.
• When installing MDF panels on a frame sheathing, cable communications can be hidden behind them.
• With the help of panels, even curved walls can be given a respectable appearance and visual evenness, especially when the right combination shades.
• Panels, unlike drywall, do not require additional finishing - this saves time, effort, and materials.
• MDF finishes are easy to care for, as the surface only needs to be wiped periodically with a damp soft cloth.
• MDF finishing wall panels have a very affordable price.

Disadvantages Such panels include the following points:

• This type of finishing does not create a perfectly smooth surface, since small gaps or depressions almost always form at the joints, depending on the design of the panel.
• When attaching such cladding to the sheathing, a gap remains between it and the wall, in which, if pre-treatment is insufficient or other unfavorable conditions, dampness can accumulate, and microflora that is unsafe for humans may develop. Very often, especially if the walls of a private house are lined, this empty space becomes a favorable place for nests or travel routes for rodents.
• The coating of the panels is not highly resistant to mechanical stress - it is easy to damage it, for example, by moving pieces of furniture without sufficient care.
• MDF is in no way a moisture-resistant material, so if the wall behind the cladding begins to get damp, the panels may swell and the cladding will begin to deform.

However, it can be noted that despite the above disadvantages, MDF panels are only gaining popularity and fully compete with. Installation of such cladding can easily be carried out even by one person without outside help, and with absolutely no experience in such work, if, of course, he follows all technological recommendations.

And in conclusion - a small visual aid» in the form of a video about the installation of MDF panels:

Video: how to install MDF panels on walls

MDF panels are widely popular in the field of interior design. Consumer interest in this finishing material is explained by its low cost, excellent decorative qualities and environmental friendliness. Another important advantage is that wall cladding with MDF panels does not require any special construction knowledge and skills, therefore, it is possible to save on the services of professional craftsmen. All work can be easily done with your own hands, you just need to show basic care and prepare the necessary set of tools.

Purchase of finishing materials and additional elements

Before purchasing panels, it is necessary to take measurements of the room that will be finished. When selecting material, you should focus not only on the squaring of the surfaces, but also on the dimensions of the panels themselves, taking into account possible waste. Also count the number of external and internal corners in the room in order to purchase special finishing corners that match the color of the selected panels.

The finishing corners are thin MDF strips pressed with protective and decorative film. Folding lengthwise, they form an internal or outside corner any radius. Finishing with overlay laminated corners allows you to hide the corner joints of the panels and give a finished look to the room.

Besides finishing materials It is also necessary to acquire wooden slats or special metal profiles for installing the sheathing. The choice of these materials will depend on the layout of the room itself.

Sheathing internal partition walls is carried out without additional insulation, so wooden blocks of 50x40 mm are quite suitable for lathing. If you intend to finish the external walls, then it is more advisable to purchase metal CD and UD profiles or 40x40 timber, which will create space for placing heat-insulating material in the gap between the wall and the panels. If you use profiles, you will also need special U-shaped brackets.

The number of elements for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the distance between them should be on average 0.4-0.5 m. In addition, you need to stock up on self-tapping screws of the appropriate length for installing the sheathing, as well as self-tapping screws, clamps or staplers (if the sheathing is wooden) for fastening panel strips. You will also need socket boxes (mounting boxes for drywall), if there is a need to install a switch or socket, and glue for decorative corners (for example, liquid nails).

However, all these additional elements may not be needed if interior walls have a perfectly flat surface and are not expected to dismantle the panels after a short period of time. In this case, their installation can be done simply by gluing. Liquid mounting nails are perfect for this purpose.

A set of tools for covering walls with MDF panels with your own hands

• screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver (for self-tapping screws);
• hammer drill (for making holes in concrete walls) or drill (for plaster, wood, brick and other walls);
• bench square (for precise marking of corners);
• sawing tool for MDF panels and slats: jigsaw (with a fine wood file), manual electric circular saw or regular hand saw with fine teeth (you can use a hacksaw);
• grinder or metal scissors (for cutting metal profiles);
• any type of building level or homemade plumb line for proper vertical installation of panels;
• furniture stapler (if necessary).

Installation technology

MDF panels are rigid strips of a certain thickness, width and length, with locking joints. It is impossible to make radius bends using this material. They can only sheathe smooth surfaces(walls, ceilings, slopes).

If you install the panels yourself on the lathing, no special preparation of the walls is required, i.e. clear them of old paint, no plaster or wallpaper needed.

Manufacturing of sheathing

Initially, you need to determine the so-called control point. To do this, you need to examine the wall for protruding areas. The most protruding place will play the role of a starting point, focusing on which, the sheathing elements are fixed to the level.

Depending on the design idea, panel strips can be positioned vertically, horizontally or diagonally, and the installation of slats or profiles is carried out in a direction perpendicular to the panels.

The slats or beams are attached in increments of 40-50 cm. It is not recommended to increase the distance between them, because the structure will lose its rigidity and may bend. If there are differences in height on the surface, use pads required thickness to level out depressions.

Properly made metal frame

The technology for arranging lathing from profiles is somewhat different from the “wooden” version. In this case, a frame of UD profiles is initially installed along the perimeter of each wall. The distance from the wall surface should correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Then the locations of the transverse CD profiles are marked. U-shaped brackets are attached along the marking line with a pitch of approximately 40 cm. CD profiles are inserted into the starting UD profiles, after which they are fixed with brackets using metal screws.

Paneling

If the project provided for thermal insulation of the wall, then immediately between the sheathing elements, strips of insulation are laid and secured. Along the way, electrical cables are laid inside the structure and taken out beyond the sheathing, so that after installing the panels, their length allows for connecting sockets or switches.

Installation of panels starts from the corner and continues along the surface of the wall. Each previous strip is carefully attached to the sheathing pieces through the tongue groove, after which the next panel is inserted into the lock. If the last strip does not fit entirely in width, it will have to be cut. Fastening is done along the edge, so that later the fastening elements can hide the decorative corner.

In the places where sockets and switches will be located, as the work progresses, holes are made using a special attachment on a drill, into which the wires are routed.

Several methods are used to attach panels to the sheathing:

Finishing a room with MDF panels using the adhesive method is carried out by dotted or zigzag application of special glue over the entire area of ​​the strip. Before gluing the panels, the walls must be treated with a deep-penetrating primer and allowed to dry. A few seconds after applying the glue, the strip is carefully pressed and fixed to the wall.

All the technologies described above are also applicable for the construction of slopes. If the slopes are small, then it will be enough to build a sheathing frame around the perimeter, without transverse elements.

On last stage The outer and inner corners of the room are finished with finishing decorative corners, for fixing which glue is used. Corners can also be placed around the perimeter of the ceiling instead of a ceiling frieze.

At the locations of electrical points, special boxes are installed and sockets or switches are installed.

This information is intended for those who want to quickly and cheaply decorate MDF walls on their own, or for those who simply want to broaden their horizons. By studying this article, you will understand that finishing it yourself is not very difficult. After all, the installation is alternately painted and shown in the form of photographs.

MDF material is wood waste (shavings) mixed with a special adhesive solution and put under pressure.

This structure of the material makes it similar to boards, but at the same time is significantly different. For example, the high temperature of processing wood waste during the production of particle boards makes it possible to avoid adding various resins and other negative chemical compounds to the gluing mixture.

Despite this, they have excellent technical performance, as a result of which they are widely in demand today.

Let's take a closer look

Interestingly, this material is used for finishing works all surfaces, from ceiling to floor. On the other side, this type materials are much more common in various administrative premises And public places. Perhaps people do not use it for their home due to the lack of home warmth and comfort of this material.

Advantages of MDF

The advantages of this finishing material include several qualities.

• One of the main advantages is the ease and accessibility of installation.
• As a result, to carry it out it is not necessary to have this process.
• In addition, installation of this material does not require special preparation of the wall surface, since installation is the final point.
• It is also worth noting that during the installation process there is not a lot of dirt and dust.
• Repair including dismantling damaged panel and installing a new one is quite simple and does not take much time.
• Today, there are also requirements for heat and sound insulation, which for this finishing material is quite good.
• As for caring for them, it is very simple; for example, you just need to wash them with warm water.
• Don’t forget about the long service life combined with the environmental friendliness of the material.
• And finally, it’s worth saying a few words about the texture and color of MDF panels, which is quite wide and imitates different materials from wood to stone.
• At the same time, the cost of this type of material varies widely.

Flaws

Along with the advantages, they also have some disadvantages. For example, this finishing material,

• not very resistant to high humidity, and becomes deformed. At the same time, manufacturers are working on this drawback, and now there are special moisture-resistant particle boards that are intended for finishing rooms such as the kitchen and bathroom. This material is also suitable for finishing a house or cottage.
• It is also worth noting the low strength, which is less than that of other finishing materials, in particular laminate. So, a strong enough blow from the ball may well deform our finishing slab.
• And finally, this finishing material burns well; therefore, experts recommend placing electrical wiring in special protective boxes (fire-resistant).

Installation

The installation process will require equipment such as special wiring boxes, a screwdriver, edge profiles, gluers, screws, and so on. In general, the installation process does not require special skills, but knowing the little tricks will allow you to carry it out as efficiently as possible.

Preparation for installation

• And so, before you start finishing, it’s worth removing wallpaper that is swollen or simply does not hold tightly.
• After that, treat the surface of the walls with a special raster primer. The fact is that this solution prevents the proliferation of fungi, which often appear in voids.
• To increase the thermal insulation of walls, you can use insulation and cover all the walls with it. Some types, for example, are mounted on the wall using adhesive solution, while the thickness of the insulation can be 0.5 cm. As a rule, such insulation materials are glued end-to-end. It is worth noting that the sparkling side of the insulation is glued directly inside.

Installation of MDF wall panels

Let's look at the first example of finishing, in which they are installed in a standard bullfighting room three-room apartment, in a multi-story building. Considering the fact that there are no external walls, additional insulation is not required. Installation work must begin from the ceiling.

• To determine the lowest angle in the room, you should use a building level and draw a horizontal line exactly 5 cm below, which will directly determine the position of the upper UD profile.
• To attach it you should use quick installation. Sometimes used as a frame wooden slats, but this is not always effective. The fact is that if the wood is even slightly damp, then for some time it can become deformed during the drying process.

• Next comes the stage of attaching the suspensions to the ceiling surface, and they should be approximately 60 - 70 cm apart from each other. To attach them, you can also use quick installation, the parameters of which range from 4 to 6 cm. Of course, before this you should do the necessary holes on top.

• After that, the SD profile is mounted on the suspensions.

Interestingly, such a base allows you to install any type of finishing materials such as: plastic, plasterboard or particle board. As for slabs made of compressed sawdust, it is better to use clamps and screws for their installation.

Remember, first lay out all communications (electrical wiring, etc.), and only then install the panels.

• On one side the material should be attached with self-tapping screws, and the other end is fixed with gluers. Interestingly, the gluers are attached to the frame using bugs. Observing this technology you can quickly and easily cover the entire surface of the ceiling.

• If you want to mount spotlight, then a hammer drill with special crowns will help you with this, which will make the necessary hole in this panel.

• Next comes the turn lighting fixtures, the installation of which is described in more detail by their manufacturer.

• As for the installation of wall panels, you should not forget about special boxes for electrical wiring.

• The next step is to create the base of the frame. Here again you can use hangers that are fixed on the surface of the walls.
• And the SD profile is already installed on them.
• The top and them are directly separated by the UD profile.

As for the location of the horizontal profile, you should focus on those places that are most often exposed to impact, for example, in the area of ​​the knee, shoulder, and so on. The distance between this profile should be maintained at 60-70 cm.

The option of surface cladding using MDF panels is currently gaining popularity. The reason is that with their help you can quickly carry out facing work over a large area. An additional plus is that when working with them, the wall will not require additional finishing in the future. It is also worth noting that decorating walls with panels yourself is doubly economical.

An important advantage of the panels is that their installation is simple and understandable to everyone, and anyone can install them.

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MDF - what is it?

MDF - fine faction From this faction are being manufactured wall panels for interior decoration. The manufacturing stages are as follows: wood shavings, fine in composition granules, are sent under a dry press. An important point is processing using high temperature and high pressure.

In order to bind the particles together and make the panel monolithic, special resins (usually urea) are added to it, which are modified with melamine.

An undoubted advantage in choosing MDF panels is that they belong to the class of highly environmentally friendly materials. According to the principle of installation and installation, use in home interior finishing using MDF panels is reminiscent of the process of working with lining. However, such panels are cheaper in price.

Installation is usually carried out in two ways - by mounting on a lathing, which acts as a frame, or by mounting on a wall using various adhesives or “liquid” nails.

Such compositions are used when installing wooden materials, as well as when sealing various holes and cracks, because their structure contains filler in the form of sawdust.

The main thing is to choose an adhesive composition that matches the color, since otherwise the areas of “grease” will stand out inharmoniously against the general background.

It should also be noted that MDF plates are made in a huge range of colors and tones, and can have patterns of different relief structures. You can find imitation stone. All this suggests that such panels can be suitable for almost any interior. Their undeniable advantage is that during installation the panels can be combined in both vertical and horizontal positions.

It is worth noting that often, when the room seems not high enough, the vertical arrangement of the panels on the wall will help to visually “grow” the finished wall. For tall but narrow rooms, all recommendations are exactly the opposite.

It is important to take into account when choosing that such panels are produced in different formats (length and width), so first of all we need to decide what result we want to see in the end.

Required Tools

For convenience and ease of finishing work, it is recommended to prepare and collect the tools necessary for the work in advance. They will speed up the installation of panels and make it quite easy. So, we need:

1. A jigsaw or a special saw that will allow you to cut vertically.
2. Ordinary bubble level.
3. Measuring tools – rulers, angles, pencils and markers.
4. Drill or ordinary screwdriver.
5. Stapler (preferably a construction one).
6. Hammer.
7. Pliers.

Main rules for installing panels

Installation of MDF panels on any surface is carried out in two ways - using adhesives and installing a frame.

Both installation options can easily be used for finishing private houses and simple residential apartments with MDF panels. When working with adhesive compositions, it is important to take into account one important nuance - the surface of the wall for cladding must be perfectly flat and smooth. In this case, it is recommended to first carry out the work using plasterboard or using plasters or putties.

When installing panels using adhesive compounds, only adhesive compounds or “liquid” nails and some fittings will serve as additional materials.

In cases where it is necessary to hide communications under MDF panels or insulation, it is better to use the option of installing lamellas on a frame base. In addition, such a frame will make an ideal plane out of any, even the most uneven surface, which will become an important foundation for a reliable MDF installations panels.

The frame itself can be assembled from bars (wooden) or profiles (metal). It should be noted that attaching panels to a wooden frame is much easier than to a metal one. In the case of wood, regular nails or staples from a construction stapler will do. A metal frame will require self-tapping screws, which necessitates the use of an additional tool - a screwdriver.

When a frame is used, a gap is formed between the wall and the cladding; wires, pipes can be removed into it, or insulation materials can be laid. However, it should be understood that such gaps, dark and sometimes damp, are attractive to fungal colonies such as mold. So it is very important to dry the wall before the installation process, if it is wet, and additionally treat it with special protective compounds, in order to avoid the formation of fungi.

So, to build the frame we will need:

Preparing the surface

You can start preparing the surface only when it has been previously dried (of course, if such a measure is required and the wall in the room is damp). We have already emphasized earlier why this is important. The main thing is to never carry out facing work on top of a damp wall.

The process of preparing the walls itself consists of the following simple steps:

• Cleaning the wall. When the surface is covered with wallpaper, it is important to remove it, because in a confined space old wallpaper will become a very attractive environment for the appearance and proliferation of fungi and mold, and sometimes insect pests. If the wallpaper is glued well enough, you will first have to wet it or steam it using the same clothes iron; then removing it will not be difficult if you use an ordinary spatula. In rare cases, it may be necessary to use special staff, which will help get rid of the wallpaper layer. In case the wall is plastered or well painted water-based paints, cleaning work can be skipped.

• Surface treatment. In cases where your wall has already been attacked by mold or other types of fungi, or perhaps insects, it is recommended to thoroughly treat it. It is advisable to use compositions such as “anti-mold” or “whiteness”. Before the processing process, you can scrape the surface with a spatula. After applying antiseptics and healing compounds to the wall, it is recommended to go over the wall again with a spatula, and then repeat the treatment process. Ideal option will be when the affected surface is cleaned to the ground: all traces of fungi or insect activity are completely removed.

It is important to understand that it is better to carry out such work when using means personal protection such as respirators or masks. Indeed, in case of unintentional inhalation of plaster particles or suspensions affected by fungus, unpleasant health consequences can occur.

• Treatment of cracks. If, after removing the wallpaper layer or poorly applied plaster, cracks are found on the surfaces, it is recommended to carry out work to eliminate them. This procedure is especially important if it is planned to place under MDF panels thermal insulation materials or soundproofing. It is important to understand that unsealed cracks can become “bridges” for the entry of cold into the room, creating factors favorable for the formation of mold, such as dampness and darkness. In order for the layer of plaster or putty to adhere well, it is recommended to widen the crack a little and, if possible, deepen it. Next, you should get rid of traces of old plaster and treat the crack using a deep penetration primer. After the primer has dried, the cracks are sealed with putty or plaster. It is important to fill the crack to its full depth.

• Application of primer. When the first three steps are completed, you should start priming the entire surface. It is important to choose soil compositions so that they contain antiseptics. This choice will help prevent the formation of mold and fungi and protect against insects settling under the panels. In case of cladding wooden walls it is necessary to select a soil that also includes special fire retardants. They are designed to increase resistance to fire influences. It is important to remember that the primer is applied in two or three layers, each previous one must dry thoroughly before applying the next.
• Installation of insulation. We go through this stage if the MDF is installed on the lathing. Penofol is ideal for this purpose; it is usually glued to a primed surface.

Frame installation process

It is important to install the frame correctly and correctly. First you need to decide how the frame elements will be installed - vertically or horizontally. For horizontal orientation, the guides are installed vertically, and vice versa for vertical orientation.

The frame is attached to a layer of insulation. You should choose a step between the guides of 5-6 centimeters. It is important to observe and control the evenness of the installation.

In order to determine the vertical (ideal), a plumb line is used. An ordinary level is suitable for determining horizontal lines. After marking it, it is not difficult to install our guides for future sheathing. It is important to consider that it is better to install the first guide in the corner of the room or along the floor area.

Installing MDF panels on a frame

When the frame is ready, and the communications are installed and hidden properly, we begin the most important process - installation of the panels.

This work begins with the preparation of the panels themselves. With the help measuring instruments A marking is made along which a cut is made using a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw.

It is important to remember that:

1. The first MDF panel must be mounted at a level for ideal horizontal or vertical, otherwise the cladding and installation of other subsequent elements will be crooked and uneven.
2. The starting panels are installed with tenons in the corners and secured with self-tapping screws. When using a metal frame, the clamps are secured with small self-tapping screws with a small head.
3. The tenon of each new panel fits closely to the groove of the already installed one. Next, it is important to adjust the position of the panel using a level.
4. Thus, the paneling is carried out to the end of the surface. It is recommended to fix the final panel using self-tapping screws. We will hide them in the future with the help of decorative corners.

Installation with adhesive solution

It is worth immediately noting that this option for installing panels is much simpler and lighter than the first, frame method of fastening.

Particular attention should be paid to adhesive compositions. They must meet certain requirements. Among them:

1. The plasticity of the glue must be maintained even after its initial drying, otherwise deformation of the MDF panels is likely. It is important to choose a composition that is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes.
2. The consistency of the composition should be thick in order to be able to apply it in a thin layer or a thicker layer.

“Liquid” nails, which can easily be found in any hardware store, ideally meet these requirements.

So let's begin. On inner surface Apply glue to the panels in a thin layer or in waves. After this, the panel is pressed tightly against the wall, torn off, left to stand for 5 minutes, and then pressed again to the required location. It will take half a minute to hold it in this position for secure fixation.

The finishing panel, if necessary, is measured and cut to fit right size. The last panel is fixed with a self-tapping screw.

At the end of the work, we install the fittings. We attach pre-prepared corners and baseboards at the joints of planes and at doorways.

Pros and cons

Decorating walls with MDF panels yourself is good, but you should take into account the nuances.

Pros: ease of installation, variety of colors and textures, the ability to install communications when choosing a frame installation method, no additional finishing in the future, ease of maintenance, accessibility.

Cons: the presence of protrusions and gaps; when choosing a frame, the formation of gaps between the wall and the lamella, which reduces the area of ​​the room, and also provides an opportunity for the development of fungus and mold - if the wall is not carefully treated, insufficient mechanical strength, minimal moisture resistance.

Bottom line

Now that you are so familiar with features of MDF panels and the intricacies of their installation, all that remains is to make your choice of the most suitable lamellas for the design. Finishing MDF walls panels - good choice for your home. Good luck! And let your home be beautiful and cozy.