Every novice gardener dreams of white-foamed blooms. fruit trees in the spring and a bountiful harvest in the fall. Any experienced gardener who considers his luxurious garden a source of pride orchard, knows that the basis of success is right choice seedlings, proper landing and care in the early years.

The whole conversation on this topic comes down to answers to 5 questions:

1. Where and how to choose the right fruit tree seedlings?
2. When is the best time to plant young trees?
3. How to choose a place for fruit trees?
4. How to plant correctly?
5. How to care for young plantings?

Where is the right place to buy young fruit tree seedlings?

Buying tree seedlings, with which a summer resident plans to connect his life for several decades, from a granny on the road or at a spontaneous market is a big risk. If there is no well-tested, reputable gardener selling planting material, then ideal option– contact the nursery.

Nursery specialists will help you choose a suitable seedling, recommend a variety based on the buyer’s requests, and advise on the specifics of planting and care. But no matter how beautifully a consultant speaks, he is first and foremost a seller. Therefore, a beginner in gardening must be well-versed in order to buy a truly high-quality product.

What should a buyer know when choosing seedlings?

• When choosing a variety of fruit trees, it is necessary to take into account adaptation to regional conditions;
• When purchasing a seedling with an open root system, you need to carefully examine the roots.

The root system should be densely branched, with many small flexible roots, fresh, not broken off or damaged during digging, at least 20 cm long for one-year-old seedlings, about 30 cm for two-year-old seedlings;

• When carefully examining the roots, you should pay attention to ensure that there are no growths, lumps, or thickenings that could signal cancer;

• When choosing a seedling with a closed root system in a container, you need to check whether the tree actually grew in this container or whether it was inserted into the container before sale. To do this, you need to carefully lift the tree, holding the trunk near the ground. The earthen lump does not crumble, it is taken out along with the roots - such a product can be taken with confidence.

How to choose the right fruit seedlings?

To be more sure, you can check whether there are roots that have escaped from the pot through the bottom drainage holes;

• Preference should be given to younger seedlings: the optimal age is from one to three years. It is a mistaken belief that older trees will bloom faster and begin to bear fruit earlier. The fact is that the older the specimen, the more difficult it is to take root, the more time and effort it needs to adapt to a new place. As a result, such trees even lag behind in development, bringing undeserved disappointment to the gardener who made the wrong choice;
• After examining the roots, you should no less carefully inspect the trunk: the purchase will be successful if the seedling has an even, smooth, well-formed trunk without mechanical damage and obvious signs of fungal diseases. Annual trees may have no side branches, biennial trees usually have three branches of 30-40 cm each. The height of the plant from the root is about a meter, which is typical for annual trees; biennial trees grow up to one and a half meters.

After purchase, seedlings with an open root system can be placed in water for a couple of days if the roots are sufficiently dry. Before planting, the roots should be carefully wrapped in damp material, preferably burlap. If there are leaves, they should be carefully torn off so that the tree does not lose moisture.

More details about the choice planting material on video:

What is the best time to plant seedlings - spring or autumn?

Fruit trees are planted in both spring and autumn. The choice of planting time depends on the type and variety of tree.

Frost-resistant varieties of apple and pear trees are planted in the fall, when all the main seasonal activities have already been completed, the temperature remains at least 10-15 degrees, and there is still at least a month before the first frost. The root system of the tree has time to strengthen and begins to grow before the onset of cold weather. In the spring, such seedlings begin to grow earlier than those planted at the beginning of the dacha season.

It is preferable to plant heat-loving stone fruits (plums, cherries, apricots) and those varieties of apple and pear trees that are characterized by poor frost resistance. permanent place early spring, before buds open.

Spring planting is also recommended in cases where the soil on the site is too heavy, dense and wet.

Choosing a location for fruit trees

Since fruit trees are planted immediately in a permanent place where they will grow for decades, the choice of planting site must be approached very responsibly. Most trees of this species prefer sunny areas protected from the winds.

Places with traffic should be avoided groundwater close to the soil surface, since with age the tree will be susceptible to rotting.

Tall and wide apple and pear trees are planted at a distance of at least 5 m, medium-sized varieties need to be spaced 3-4 meters apart, and columnar forms need a meter of soil in diameter. If planting is planned near buildings, the same parameters must be observed so as not to interfere with tree growth in the future.

The main rules for planting fruit seedlings

Fruit trees are planted in holes dug at least two weeks before planting. If you plan to plant a tree in the spring, then it is best to prepare the hole in the fall so that the soil has time to compact: this will reduce the risk of deepening the root collar of the plant. The universal pit size is 80 cm in diameter and depth.

Basic landing rules:

• Place a layer of expanded clay at the bottom of the hole, last year’s leaves on top, then sprinkle well with wood ash;

• Mix a bucket of humus or compost with fertile soil removed from the hole during the digging process, place this mixture at the bottom of the hole;
• Place the seedling on this layer, straighten the roots, then add another bucket of humus or compost, shaking the seedling to fill the entire hole space with soil as much as possible;

• Compact the soil and carefully pour out two buckets of water;

• When the water is completely absorbed, the hole is filled to the top with fertile soil, watered well again and mulched trunk circle rotted sawdust, wood chips, leaves.

Mulching will conserve soil moisture and prevent the formation of a hard surface crust.

• When planting, it is extremely important not to deepen the root collar of the plant or expose it by planting the tree at an insufficient depth.

Once again about the root collar of a seedling in the video:

This charge will be enough for the young tree for the first couple of years, during which all its care will be reduced to watering.

How to care for a young, freshly planted tree

Regular abundant watering is all a seedling needs to good development. Even autumn seedlings need to be watered before the first frost. Watering is the basis for the future health of the tree.

Disease prevention and pest protection should not be neglected, because it will be difficult for the seedling to withstand these problems. The first wintering also requires a responsible approach: the bark of young fruit trees is often nibbled by mice and hares, so the trunk must be protected. After whitewashing it is wrapped plastic bottles, lay hoses around or car tires to repel rodents.

Even frost-resistant varieties can freeze slightly in the first years of life, especially in winters with little snow. To avoid this, the trees are covered with spruce branches.

When the fruit tree blooms for the first time, especially if this happens in the first year after planting, you need to muster up the will and remove the long-awaited flowers so that the tree concentrates all its energy on development, on the formation of the root system and crown, and does not spend it on ripening a pair of fruits.

By following all these rules, the gardener will receive his first harvest in a few years, and the garden will become a source of pride and admiration.

A beautiful and well-kept garden giving bountiful harvest berries and fruits are the pride of anyone personal plot, be it country house, cottage or summer hacienda. To achieve good results recommendations should be followed experienced gardeners who apply their own experience, collected over the years. First of all, you need to understand that any plant is a living being, which is influenced not only by compliance certain rules agricultural technology, but also lunar phases, climatic conditions, soil indicators and even the mood of the gardener involved in planting or care. It is advisable to carry out all work in accordance with life cycles certain types of crops.

How to properly care for seedlings - from selection and planting to fruiting

Selection of seedlings

Of course, the choice of planting material directly affects the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of the future harvest. Buy plants from specialized gardening stores, reputable nurseries, or from familiar gardeners who guarantee their quality.

It is advisable to replant all trees and shrubs, especially stone fruits, before the age of 1 year. Two-year-old plants much more often do not take root in a new place, get sick or bear little fruit. This is due to the fact that younger seedlings have a less developed crown and a short, thin trunk, due to which the process of adaptation to a new place of residence is not only faster and easier, but also more painless.

The normal height of annual stone fruit trees is 1.1 to 1.3 meters, and that of pome trees is 0.9 to 1 meter. These recommendations apply to plants with a bare root system (no earthen ball on the roots).

What are the criteria for selecting seedlings?

1. Special attention You should pay attention to the roots: if they are long, but the main rhizomes do not have sufficient small roots (“hairy” roots), then it is better to refrain from purchasing them. It is the small branches that allow the plant to absorb the maximum amount. nutrients from the soil.

2. Seedlings take root better if they are dug up in early autumn. Such plants lack the characteristic immature green top, which is characteristic of seedlings removed from the ground in August or even at the end of July.

Preparing seats

Planting holes are dug in advance. Even if planting is planned in the spring, it is still advisable to prepare the holes in the fall. The top fertile layer of soil (it is darker in color) is deposited separately from the rest of the earth. The depth of the hole is at least 0.6 m, and the diameter is 1 m, since it is necessary to provide space for the root system. Lower (infertile, light color, from sand and clay), a layer of soil is no longer needed - it can be scattered in a thin layer around the site or in the garden. The bottom is lined with drainage from river sand and fine gravel or pebbles. Spill generously seat clean water. It is advisable to start planting no earlier than after 1 month.

Planting seedlings:

1. Before planting, the root system of the plant is checked: the tips are cut off (1-2 cm), broken rhizomes or those with signs of rotting are removed.

2. A soil mixture consisting of 2 parts of fertile soil (set aside in a separate pile), 1 part of rotted manure or garden compost and 1 part of peat is poured onto the bottom of the hole.

3. The seedling is placed in the center of the pile to be grafted ( root collar) was 3-4 cm above the surface level of the site (deepening can lead to the plant rotting and dying), while the lower roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound.

4. At a distance of about 10 cm from the trunk, drive in prepared wooden pegs (to support young trees) in an amount from 1 to 3, with a height equal to the height of the seedling.

5. Fill the hole evenly by distributing the fertile soil.

6. Firmly compact the soil with your feet (this stage is carried out to remove air bubbles remaining from the soil during planting, which cause root rotting), then water the plant at the rate of 10 to 12 liters per seedling.

7. The settled soil must be replenished with soil to the previous level.

8. Mulch the tree trunk circle with peat (a covering layer of about 2 cm), then tie the plant well, but not tightly, to the peg(s).

Watering seedlings

Plants need regular watering for at least two years. It is during this period that complete rooting occurs, and the tree becomes strong and hardy. Watering is carried out in all months except cold ones (from the first frost until the snow completely melts). The volume of water for each plant and the frequency of watering depend on the current weather conditions. In the absence of precipitation, trees are watered for 12-14 days until water begins to be absorbed into the soil with a delay. With this method of watering, a soil crust forms over the next day, which is loosened to a shallow depth.

Fruiting

Future productivity directly depends on how strong the tree becomes. Annual apples and peaches will bear their first fruits after 2-3 years, apricots, cherries and plums - 3-4, and pears - about 5 years. If young trees bloom earlier than the agreed date, then all flowers are removed so as not to weaken the plants.

Wishing you abundant harvests in your garden!

• Preparing holes immediately before planting seedlings. Certain processes must go through in the soil in order to prepare the plant to take its place.
• When planting trees, the root collar of the seedlings is buried. The bark deteriorates at the base of the trunk, and the tree may die in 3-4 years. Remember that apple, pear, plum, cherry, raspberry are those species whose root collar should be at the level of the soil surface when planted.
• Transportation of seedlings with foliage and uncovered roots. This is unacceptable. Be sure to remove the leaves and cover the roots with damp material. If they do dry out, put them in water for 1-2 days so that they gain moisture before planting.
• Planting an adult seedling 3-5 years old leads to the fact that they get sick for a long time, most likely do not produce fruit, and often die from loss of roots during digging. The best seedlings Fruit trees are biennials and annuals.

What is an approximate scheme for working with tree crowns throughout the year?

February-March: We lighten, rejuvenate trees, remove dead and old branches, while there is still time and there is no garden under the trees.

April-May: Lightening and thinning of crowns to prevent shedding of ovaries and enlargement of fruits. Plenty of light and good ventilation reduce fruit rot. Now the condition of the branches and their fertility is clearly visible, and the wounds are more likely to heal on the bark, in which active life has begun.

June-July: It is better to revive old overgrown pome trees now than in the fall. Pinching and cleaning enhances the harvest.

August-September: stone fruits have already produced their harvest and are ready for any work. In addition, after this work they will have time to prepare for winter. True, a flower bed under a tree or a fruit-bearing corner of the garden gets in the way.

October-November: You can do whatever you want with any breeds. You just need to treat the wounds well after removing the branches, and in the spring, clean them again with a knife to the living bark.

What does a tree and its owner need?

A person believes that the purpose of a tree is to grow and produce more fruit. The tree mainly fights for light and space. Here are the characteristics of an effective summer cottage tree:

1. It should not be higher than you. A tall tree is a difficulty that you create for yourself. In fact, than more compact tree, the easier it is for him to accumulate fruits, giving all his strength to them, and not to the mass of branches going into the sky.
2. All branches must be easily accessible. And not only to collect fruits, but also to pinch shoots.
3. Each branch of the crown should be fruiting, that is, inclined or horizontal and open to the sun most of the day. A tree will only be productive when it directs all its strength to feeding the fruit. Why should he be “distracted” by growing branches?
4. The tree takes up minimal space and does not shade the area (unless it is a recreation area).

Planting and caring for fruit tree seedlings

Plant summer cottage plot You can use seedlings of different ages. But of course it is better to plant annuals. Older trees take root less well. For planting a garden You need to take only high-quality seedlings with developed roots, without damage to the trunk and branches.

There is no need to plant trees with frozen roots. You can check the degree of freezing by cutting the skeletal roots; if half of the cut is dark brown, then such a seedling should not be planted. Before planting, the trees need to be buried in the ground. If there is nowhere to dig, you can save the seedlings on the balcony or in the basement by wrapping them in plastic and moistening the roots with wet sawdust or peat.

Trees are planted about a month before soil frosts in the fall and in the spring after the soil has dried.

Holes for planting need to be dug approximately 60cm deep. and diameter 100cm. If the soil is too dense, you can dig less.

When you dig a hole, fertile soil layer deposited in one direction, more clayey deposits in the other. The roots of the seedling need to be buried with a fertile layer. Be sure to straighten the roots and trample the ground.

15-20 kg of humus introduced from top layer soil into the planting hole.

Cherry seedlings, pear and apple trees take root both in autumn and spring. Berry crops, apricots and peaches are best planted in spring. Cherries are planted in the first days of spring field work. In the first year, flower buds must be removed.

Approximately one day before planting seedlings you need to put it in water, and when planting, dip it in the ground so that the roots do not dry out.

In areas exposed to the wind, seedlings need to be tied to a stake.

Having planted a seedling, in the spring, trim the crown in accordance with the root system. If this is not done, it will be difficult for the tree to take root and grow.

Each branch of the crown is pruned in such a way that the lower branch is always slightly longer than the upper one. There is no need to prune the young trees any further. To form a crown, you need to promptly pinch out unnecessary shoots or tie them up. Seedlings are always pruned in the spring.

After planting, you need to thoroughly water the seedlings with 3-4 buckets of water. Fruit trees really need watering during bud break and after flowering, with the growth of new shoots and swelling flower buds. Heavy watering in August can have a bad effect on the growing season and the ripening of wood.

The need of seedlings for fertilizers can be determined by studying chemical composition soil or from observations of plant growth and fertility. If young trees annually grow by 50-60 cm, and fruit-bearing trees grow by 25-35 cm, then it is considered that the soil nutrition is quite sufficient.

You can prevent tree burns from sudden changes in temperature at night by whitewashing or tying the base of skeletal branches with newspapers.

At the end of winter, you need to remember to trample the snow around the trees, compacted snow will melt more slowly, retaining more moisture in the ground.

We must remember that the younger the seedling, the faster it grows before grafting, the faster the crown will recover!

Fruit trees can be planted in spring and autumn while the plants are leafless and their buds have not yet begun to bloom.

Spring - best time for planting fruit trees in the north and in middle lane. In the southern regions it is better to plant in the fall. There is no threat of a harsh winter, and spring plantings cannot be affected by the spring drought that is common in areas of the southern zone.

In Siberia and the Urals, in areas with sufficient snow cover, fruit trees are planted in the fall, and in areas with little snow - in the spring. In central areas, with less harsh winters and large snow cover, trees can be planted in the fall, but no later than 20-25 days before the onset of the first stable frost.

It is more convenient to plant together. One person installs the seedling so that the roots extend evenly in all directions from the stem, and the other person covers the roots with prepared soil. It is necessary to ensure that the transition point of the roots into the trunk, called the root collar, is 5-7 cm above the soil surface. It is especially necessary to monitor the grafting site, which must be above the soil level.

When filling the roots, shake the seedling slightly so that the soil fills all the voids between the roots. The buried roots are lightly compacted with feet and, if necessary, more soil is added. A mound of any soil is poured around the trunk along the perimeter of the hole, forming a funnel for irrigation. After planting, watering is required, pouring two or three buckets onto one seedling. After watering, the soil is lightly covered with dry soil or peat to protect the soil from drying out and cracking. When planting a tree, the stake located in the center of the hole should almost touch the trunk of the seedling and cover the tree on the south side. This position of the stake will protect the tree bark from overheating sun rays. The seedling is tied to the stake with twine using a figure of eight pattern.

In areas with a steep slope (10-12%), terraces are made, the width of which is determined by the projection of the crown of an adult tree and should be at least 2.5-3 m.

Pruning planted trees

Plants planted in the garden are greatly shortened when dug up. root system, the ground part of them has been completely preserved. It is clear that shortened roots are not able to provide food and water aboveground part plants. To reduce the load on the damaged root system, it is necessary to partially shorten the main branches of the crown, cutting them off by about one-third of the entire length.

At spring planting pruning is carried out immediately, and trees planted in the fall are left unpruned until spring. In spring, pruning is done as early as possible, before the plant buds have time to bloom. When pruning, the side branches are shortened by about one-third of their length, while the central shoot, growing straight up, is cut so that it is 20-25 cm higher than the other branches of the tree. The branches need to be trimmed with a sharply sharpened knife above the outer bud. Cherries and plums should not be pruned, as their wounds heal very slowly and often lead to disease.

Protecting plants from damage

At autumn planting after the first slight frost, the trunks of planted trees should be covered with mounds of earth up to 40 cm high. This will protect the plants from freezing. Early spring The trees must be freed from mounds of earth and the soil under them must be loosened.

Autumn plantings for the winter are protected from mice, hares and other rodents by tying the stems along their entire length with spruce branches with the needles facing down. If spruce branches cannot be obtained, the trunks of planted plants can be tied with roofing felt (or other material) and tied with twine so that the roofing felt fits tightly to the tree trunk.