How to use old bricks in your dacha. How to make a brick garden path with your own hands - paving techniques and photos Do-it-yourself broken brick path


Landscape design, in addition to beauty, should also bring practicality to the site. Paths in the garden are most likely the most practical solution, which can only be. Convenient access to plants, the ability to move freely around the garden and admire the surrounding beauty. They can be laid out from different material, but brick paths add a special charm to the atmosphere of the garden plot.

The most important thing is that such a track has a low cost, and the effect is amazing. Oddly enough, but laying brick paths is quite a popular phenomenon in many European countries.

Like this, this process is not complicated and everything can be done with your own hands.

Which brick to choose for paths

Most likely you will have to lay out a path in your dacha from existing old bricks. Usually, paving is made of red brick (it is the color that gives that very antique atmosphere). You can also use clinker or sand-lime brick. Perhaps there are construction residues lying somewhere on your summer cottage - broken bricks make chic paths.

Necessary tools for laying a path

To work you need a small list of tools and materials:

  1. Shovel.
  2. Garden wheelbarrow.
  3. Level.
  4. Construction thread.
  5. Rubber hammer.
  6. Tamping.
  7. Cement.
  8. Sand.

Planning the future garden path and preparing for work

Let's decide what you expect from the future track, what functions it should perform. You need to decide on the width of the future coverage. If walks outside the garden are not planned, then a width of up to 1 m will be quite normal, but if the area allows you to walk around the territory not alone, then you can expand it to 1.5 m, or even more.

Don't forget about the slopes - the water should not stagnate and form puddles, but you shouldn't make the slopes too large. The water should leave gradually, and not run in a stream. It is advisable to organize the collection of water in advance, otherwise it may collect at the curbs and wash them away, which can lead to destruction.

As for the location of the path, you should not lay the path too close to growing trees, otherwise their roots may destroy the covering. Also, there is no need to make sharp turns - they should be smooth.

To mark the future path you need to use metal or wooden pegs, as well as thread. Using a thread, adjust the required height of the brick path. If the landscape of the site has already been formed, then most likely it will be necessary to remove the soil. If the soil has not yet been brought to the site and no plants have been planted, then it is enough to clean it working area from weeds.

Preparing the base

Although the paths are not designed for heavy loads, it is still worth treating them responsibly. The base should consist of the following layers, starting from the bottom:

  • gravel layer (acts as drainage);
  • sand or sand-cement layer.

Geotextiles allow liquid to pass through from top to bottom, but block any weeds that may try to get out. The ratio of the sand-cement layer is 5 or 4 to 1, respectively. Each layer is carefully compacted. It’s best to use, but if it’s possible, then it’ll do just fine.

How to lay a brick garden path


Brick paving slabs are not so popular for nothing. She has large number styling options. And yes, this is a classic! To start laying, you need to decide on a pattern.

It is also advisable to start by installing curbs. Bricks placed at the end or can serve as borders. If the installation of curbs on initial stage causes difficulties (you are afraid not to guess with the size or other options), then you can install them after laying the bricks or install borders only on one side.

The garnet layer is leveled using a level or a flat wooden board, and then laid on it. Don't place bricks too close to each other - let there be space between them short distance(about 3 mm).

Final stage

After the brick paths have been laid, you need to carry out finishing work. It is necessary to level the bricks where required, fill everything with sand or light grout and rub all the seams between the bricks. This will secure the bricks into the lock, give strength to the paths and prevent destruction.

Inexpensive and easy to make tracks from granite screenings can turn out to be a beautiful and convenient element of landscaping the territory of a personal garden or summer cottage. Thanks to its simplified design, walkways from this material can be made independently, without turning to specialists. Granite crushed stone has high performance indicators. It is distinguished by strength, durability and frost resistance.

Material characteristics

Granite screenings are obtained from solid rocks by grinding waste from the extraction of natural stone. In addition to being used as a decorative backfill for the surface of garden paths, it is widely used for:

  • preparations concrete mixtures when pouring mosaic floors;
  • production of high-quality asphalt mixtures;
  • finishing plastering works on facades and in interior spaces;
  • when designing landscape design elements;
  • powder for rolled roofing materials;
  • filling mechanical cleaning filters;
  • sprinkling roads during icy conditions;
  • during production building materials.

In each case, the required fraction of granite screenings is selected based on technological requirements production. Manufacturers produce gravel of three fractions:

  1. small up to 2 mm;
  2. average 2-5 mm;
  3. large 5-10 mm.

Stones larger than 10 mm are called crushed stone.

For garden paths made of granite screenings, the recommended gravel size should not exceed 5 mm.

For more large stones walking in light and soft shoes will not be comfortable. In addition, the fine and medium fractions are better compacted and provide an almost even and hard surface for garden paths.

Granite gravel does not absorb moisture, making it frost-resistant and does not collapse over time. As a result of use natural materials during its manufacture, it is environmentally friendly for humans and is not susceptible to temperature changes.

Depending on the granite deposit, screening paths can have a variety of color shades. Most inexpensive material- gray, but for a more colorful design, you can lay colored stone of red, burgundy, blue, green, orange or other colors on the surface.

Required materials and tools

For that proper arrangement For garden paths made of granite screenings with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  1. colored granite screening of small and medium fractions;
  2. less expensive gray screening to reduce costs;
  3. crushed stone fraction 10-40 mm for the installation of a drainage layer;
  4. geotextiles with a density of at least 120 g/m (non-woven insulating material);
  5. sand, preferably river sand;
  6. materials for;
  7. cement for fixing curbs;
  8. water;
  9. pegs for marking work and primary securing of curbs at the site of their installation.

From the tools necessary for the job you will need to prepare:

  1. shovel and bayonet shovel;
  2. measuring tape and cord;
  3. buckets and wheelbarrow for moving materials;
  4. hammer and rake;
  5. car or hand tool for compacting paths made of granite screenings.

All these materials and tools are freely available in most construction stores. It is cheaper to rent a tamping machine rather than purchase one.

Marking

Marking with pegs.

Work on installing garden paths begins with markings. It should be taken into account that their location is influenced not only by the general design and the shortest distances, but also by the slopes of the site, the nature of the soil, the presence of trees, the growing roots of which can disrupt the beautiful coating over time.

Marking is done by driving stakes into the ground and pulling colored or white cord. The width of the paths should allow two people to separate when meeting without leaving the covered surface.

Excavation and backfilling of the drainage layer

Before backfilling granite screenings, it is necessary to prepare the base of the path, which consists of:

  • two layers of geotextile;
  • drainage crushed stone layer;
  • sand cushion;
  • backfill from granite screenings.

In addition, a border must be installed along the edges, which can be concrete, brick, wood, plastic or other materials.

To install crushed stone drainage, along the marked lines of the path from stone screenings, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil by digging a trench 20-25 cm deep. Level its bottom and, which then needs to be sprinkled with a 2-3 cm layer of sand. Geotextiles will drain moisture well into the soil and will not allow weeds to sprout. Sand is needed to protect the textile layer from damage by the sharp edges of crushed stone.


Excavation.

Cushion, border and gravel layer

Next, add a 10-15 cm layer of crushed stone and compact it. The drainage layer must be protected with a thin layer of sand and covered with another layer of geotextile. After this, install curbs that will prevent gravel from spilling to the sides and soil from getting onto the surface of the path.

Curbs can be made from treated wood, concrete, or brick. The borders of garden paths are secured with stakes, cement mortar or special plastic fasteners.


Schematic representation of a path made of granite screenings.

Place a layer of sand 5-7 cm thick on top of the textile as a support cushion for the granite screenings. A dry base will be more durable. cement-sand mixture. This support layer must be compacted well. The quality of compaction has an important influence on the stability of the gravel layer.

You need to pour granite gravel onto the sand and spill water on the surface. Thanks to the water, the sand and stone will be well compacted and provide an even and dense coating. For final leveling, use granite screening.

When using gravel gray You can increase the strength of the track surface by pouring liquid cement laitance onto it. It will bind individual pebbles together well, forming a monolith similar in characteristics to concrete.


Installation of plastic borders.

In conclusion

The technology for making paths from granite screenings is one of the simplest. Even without having construction skills, you can make them yourself.

In addition, you do not need to purchase tiles, paving stones or other piece paving materials, and such paths look very beautiful and original.













Garden paths are an integral part of landscape design. They are constructed from different building materials: stone, concrete, brick, wood, and so on. This article will talk about brick paths. Or rather, about the technology of their paving.

How to lay a path in the garden from ordinary bricks

So let's start with what it requires solid brick, that is, without any holes or voids. He must be high quality, because the long-term operation of the garden alley will depend on this.

Additionally you will need sand and geotextiles. Instead of sand, you can use gravel, crushed stone or a mixture of sand and crushed stone in a 1:1 ratio.

    First stage – determine the width of the path and apply its contours to the area. If this is an alley from the gate to the house, then its width can be torn out to 2 m. If this is a garden path, then within 80 cm.

    Marking is carried out or chalk powder, or pegs, between which string (twine) is pulled. However, the path itself does not have to be straight. Bends, bends, turns, connections with two or three paths - it's a matter of landscape design ordinary.

    The second stage of constructing brick garden paths - earthworks . Their volume depends on whether the brick will be sunk into the ground or remain on the surface. In the first case, the depth of the ditch under the path is 15 cm, plus the thickness of the brick. In the second case - only 15 cm.

    The bottom of the trench is leveled and compacted. Then they are covered with a 15-centimeter layer of coarse sand, which is also leveled and compacted. Better with water.

    Third stage – brick laying. If it is not recessed into the ground, then you will first have to install limiters along the boundaries. These may be temporary elements or permanent ones. Temporary ones include the bricks themselves, laid on edge. Or metal or wooden pins driven into the ground. You can even use boards. That is, with the help of these elements the border of the alley is formed, plus stops that will prevent the bricks from “moving apart” in different directions.

Constant stops (limiters) should be discussed separately.

How to form the boundaries of a garden path

There are several options.

The first one is the simplest. The boundaries are formed from the bricks themselves. So that they are high bearing capacity, brick blocks installed vertically in length. That is, half is buried in the ground, the other half will stick out above the ground. No fastening solutions or additional materials. The main thing is to accurately calculate the required amount for both the path and the curbs.

Of course, the vertical position of the bricks in the thrust device is not necessary. They can be laid horizontally or with a slight slope. In the latter case, the corners of the blocks will protrude outward, which will significantly distinguish them from the bulk of the building material laid on the plane of the path. The photo below shows just such an option.

The second option is to use ready-made borders made of concrete or stone. On the market you can select these landscape design elements according to length, width and thickness, which is very convenient. For example, massive borders are suitable for wide alleys, and miniature ones for narrow ones.

The third option is a monolithically poured border. It is made from concrete mortar, which is poured into the installed formwork. Typically, filling is done to the entire depth of the excavated pit. The height of the protruding part may be greater than the thickness of the brick being laid. The width is within 5-10 cm. Subsequently, the concrete border is painted or lined, for example, ceramic tiles. If the concrete product is well sanded, then there is no need to cover it with anything for decorative purposes. Concrete and brick themselves look good together.

The fourth option is special corner bricks. They are laid in the masonry of the garden path. Moreover, they must be mounted along the edge of the structure. It is with their short side that they are held in the ground, preventing the finishing elements from moving apart.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most . In the filters you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.

Fifth option– these are special small sizes columns made of concrete. They can be round, rectangular or polygonal. For example, the diameter of round products varies in the range of 10-12 cm, length up to 30 cm. They are simply installed on the border of the path, often “planted” on concrete mortar. Be sure to level everything in height.

In principle, options for forming borders country paths made of brick - huge amount. Let's add to those already mentioned:

    stone;

    rubble concrete, this is when stones are filled with concrete;

    paving slabs , installed on the edge;

    paving stones;

    plastic pipes, closed with plugs.

Brick installation

So, the ditch for the path is ready, the boundaries have been formed. All that remains is to lay the brick itself. First of all, you need to decide on the masonry scheme. There aren't many options here. The simplest is the type of bandage, when the cladding elements are laid offset by half the stone. And other schemes:

    herringbone;

    interspersed a whole brick and a half;

    parquet styling;

    curly.

We will not discuss which option is better or worse, simpler or more complex, cheaper or more expensive. Let's just label them in the photo below. And already every owner suburban area he decides which one he likes.

And one more thing. Which brick to choose for this in terms of its color. Here again, the owner of the dacha decides. But keep in mind that garden paths made of red brick look bright; they divide the area well into zones. It is difficult to hide them even with vegetation, but this fact makes it possible to emphasize the layout of the paths. This option enhances the functionality of landscape design.

Many designers are trying to diversify their approach to the design of alleys. Therefore, they combine bricks different colors. But here you have to be careful. Especially the tracks local area. This element should not become the main design element. It should highlight the architecture and decoration of the house, and not set it off.

So, let’s move directly to the section of laying a brick path in a country house. Let’s say right away that the main tool for this process is building level. Because each brick must be aligned with the horizon. At the same time, it should be in the same plane as the other stones.

Laying can begin from any end of the path. Each brick is installed exactly according to the chosen scheme. The finishing elements are installed close to each other or a small gap is left between them. There is no need to strengthen the material with masonry mortar. If some brick is laid higher than the rest, then it is removed, the layer of sand bedding is removed and installed in place. If, on the contrary, it turns out to be lower, then add a little more sand or gravel under the block.

If the width of the path is large, then the process of laying bricks can be carried out using a level, which is a thread stretched between two pegs. That is, they hammer two pegs along the edges of the ditch, tie a thread to one of them, pull its free end to the opposite peg, align it horizontally using a level and tie it. It is along this stretched thread that the bricks are laid in one row.

When the entire garden alley is laid with bricks, its surface is sprinkled with sand so that it fills the seams between the finishing elements. Gradually sweep the sand from one edge to the opposite with a broom or brush. After which it is better to water the entire path with plenty of water. And then fill it with sand again so that it complements the settled layer.

Video description

The video shows how to build a garden brick path:

English track

There is such a term in landscape design. Essentially, these are paths made of old brick. They are laid without curbs or other restrictions. That is, a path is formed in the form of a ditch, where sand is poured, and old bricks are laid on top of it. Their upper plane should be located at the level of the ground or be slightly higher.

This is the simplest option that does not require large amounts of money and time. The only requirement is that there is no vegetation that would grow between the cladding elements. Therefore, the bottom of the dug ditch is covered with geotextiles. This material will not allow plants to break through, but it allows water to pass through it well. Geotextiles are laid so that they cover the walls of the pit.

If this nonwoven material no, then a gap of 1-2 cm is left between the bricks, which is subsequently filled cement-sand mortar. Just such an option is shown in the photo below.

English brick path

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out the bricks for paths in the country, examined the options and technologies for forming alleys, and also outlined several ways to make the boundaries of paths. It should be noted that brick alleys are not the most durable, say, like stone or concrete. Under the influence of water, subzero temperatures, ice and snow, the brick quickly fails. It begins to crack, delaminate and collapse. This especially applies to material from the “used” category. But even a path made from old brick will last at least 10 years. And this is with small financial investments.

Publication date: 05/16/2015

How to do garden path with your own hands?

If daily walking summer cottage turns into an obstacle because the owner of the site is drowning in mud up to his ankles, then it’s time to start building a brick path. Garden paths are an integral part of the landscape today country house. Such a path will not only make the passage from the gate to the house strong and clean, but also add style to the landscape of the house. Moreover, a brick path is built with your own hands without special labor, and the dacha will look well-groomed and respectable. And for this it is not at all necessary to have “golden hands”; it is enough just to follow the step-by-step instructions.

To build a quality walkway you will need three things: boundaries, bricks and foundations.

In order to build a brick path at your dacha with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • hacksaw;
  • shovel;
  • manual rammer;
  • 1.2 m level;
  • hammer;
  • drill;
  • mechanical brush.

Necessary materials for laying the path

First of all, you need to choose a brick that can withstand harsh weather conditions.

You need to measure the brick you like and calculate the amount needed for the path.

A graded base (a combination of rock dust and crushed stone) will be needed to create a porous, strong base. You will also need stone dust to create a porous, smooth base between the bricks and the graded base.

You cannot do without composite lumber, which is used as temporary guides along the edges of the path. Combined materials are easier to bend than standard ones. You can choose the latter, but it’s easier to make a path with your own hands using combined materials. Pegs will be needed to secure the guides, and screws will be needed to screw them in place. To make a sand screed, you will need lumber. To give the path a finished and neat look, you can use a border.

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Overview of garden path construction

Each brick path needs a border to hold the material in place. When building a path, guides are used to help hold the bricks.

To build a quality walkway you will need three things: boundaries, bricks and foundations. Material that is suitable for harsh conditions weather conditions, not only will it last for more than one season, but it will also not crack after daily walking. If “old-fashioned standard” bricks (their length is twice the width) are used in construction, in order to create a durable surface and prevent weeds from appearing, such material is recommended to be laid at maximum density.

Each brick path needs a border to hold the material in place. When building a path, guides are used to help hold the bricks in place while the path is being laid. But then you still need to make a permanent restriction, which is formed from bricks turned on their sides. In this case, the bricks must be buried deeper into the ground to provide the necessary support.

Regardless of the quality of the material, garden paths will only be durable if there is a good foundation underneath them. The path in the country house is laid at a distance of at least 60 cm from those trees that have large root systems. Another big threat is water - if it is not absorbed properly, it will seep to the surface, and when frosts and warm temperatures come, this will lead to the brick sticking out over the entire surface. In order to prevent this, it is necessary to redirect the drains; for this, a small slope is made on one side of the path.

Under the bricks there is a layer of graded base (a mixture of crushed stone and dust), and sand must be poured on top to ensure proper drainage. All layers must be compacted properly in order to have a solid base; this is not difficult to do with your own hands.

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Construction of a garden path at the dacha

First you need to determine how wide the path will be, and then add 5 cm to this. Then you need to highlight its location in width using a rope, a hose and paint. Top layer The earth is removed with a shovel between the markings, and you need to dig to the depth until the color of the earth changes. The soil that has been dug up must be laid on a tarpaulin so that everything around is clean, because then you will also need to clean everything up with your own hands.

Now that the path has been dug, 5 cm of the graduated base is poured out, and its surface needs to be sprinkled with water. Take a hand tamper and compact the base layer evenly, then add another couple of centimeters of base, and the process is repeated again until the compacted layer reaches a height of 7.5 cm.

Near the edges of the graduated guide base, narrow trenches are dug along the edges with a shovel. Installed on each side wooden board 2.5 by 10 cm, then ties are installed on top of them, and the boards are then hammered in.

Now you need to start working on the screed; it can also be used as a spacer when installing the guides. This is done as follows: a wooden board 5 by 10 cm is cut with a hacksaw so that it is 15 cm longer than the width of the path. Then they dig holes at the ends, the width of which should be 8 cm.

Near the edges of the graduated guide base, narrow trenches are dug along the edges with a shovel. A wooden board 2.5 by 10 cm is installed on each side, then ties are installed on top of them, and the boards are then hammered in. And then the brick garden path will look neat. In order for the guides to stay in place, it is recommended to drive wooden stakes to a depth of 15 cm, and they need to be installed every 90 cm. The pegs are attached to the boards with screws, then the boards are cut to the same level as the guides.

In order for the path to be smooth, you need to cut small piece made of wood for every 30 cm of path width. Then place a level between the guides so that the wood is located at the top of the guides. Then, using a hammer, the guides are pressed to the ground until the level is level. Now sand is poured between the guides and compacted, and a screed is installed between the guides so that the surface of the sand is even. If necessary, sand is added and everything is compacted again.

During installation, levelness should be regularly checked using a level.

Shallow trenches (about 6 cm) are dug on both sides of the guides, the bricks are laid on edge in these trenches and leveled at the same level with the top of the guides (the blunt part of a hammer is used for this). Then, using a level, the bricks are checked for evenness. The material is laid along the edges until the entire path is laid out.

The recesses on the sides widen so that the screed is installed between the bricks on both sides. The actual laying of bricks begins between the edging: the brick is held above the sand, pressed against the edge of the edging and placed flush with the beginning of the path. Then the bricks are pressed with a hammer so that they are flush with the edge of the edging. During installation, the evenness is regularly checked using a level. Bricks should not be dragged along sand, otherwise the joints will be filled with sand, which will lead to leaks.

A layer of stone dust or sand is poured on top of the brick, then the sand or stone dust is swept between the joints using a large broom. The path needs to be watered with water from a hose, and then, when the sand becomes wet, place it in the joints until they are tightly filled. It must be remembered that garden paths should not only be beautiful in appearance, but also durable.

The sand sets in about one week, and after this time the seams are filled with sand again. When another week has passed, you can unscrew the pegs and guides. Thus, it becomes clear that homesteads built with your own hands are not something very complicated. You can also decorate garden paths with colored bricks, which will look very original, and here everything is limited only by your imagination. AND step by step instructions will help with this. you can not only build, but also decorate.