How to make a wooden floor over the cellar. Do-it-yourself insulation of the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement

The traditional cellar is arranged so that its entire room is located below ground level. This design has a lot of advantages: stable temperature throughout the year, free space on the site, the ability to store food. The ceiling of the cellar in this arrangement is at ground level or slightly higher.

Before making any cellar, the level of groundwater is taken into account. If it is above the floor of the storage, then it is necessary to make an effective waterproofing of the room so that during seasonal water movements there is no flooding of the room. As a rule, the simplest materials are used for this - roofing material and brick.

First of all, the walls of the room are plastered with cement mortar. This must be done on both sides. After that, roofing felt is attached to the walls (best in 2-3 layers). Then this simple waterproofing must be pressed with a brick wall. Such a building, despite its simplicity, can withstand groundwater, preventing them from penetrating inside the cellar. The floor of the room can be insulated in a similar way, but there you first need to make a good pillow of sand and gravel.

Pouring a monolithic concrete ceiling

Upon completion of the work related to the construction of walls and the implementation of waterproofing of the premises, the moment comes when it is necessary to resolve the issue of covering the cellar. In some cases, a conventional monolithic concrete slab is used for this, which is made of concrete and a reinforcing cage.

All work can be done by hand. It is very important to build a timber formwork before pouring concrete.

The overlap in size should exceed the dimensions of the room, because the walls of the cellar will be its supports.
Before pouring the ceiling, special supports should be mounted, which should hold the structure of the wooden formwork at the time of filling it with concrete and when it dries. In this case, the formwork must first be sealed so that the solution does not leak during the pouring process.
The next step after creating the formwork is knitting the frame of the concrete slab. The frame, as already noted, is made of reinforcement. The distance between the individual rods should be approximately 20–25 cm. If your cellar is small in size, then one reinforcing cage is enough, but when the storage dimensions are significant, it is better to reinforce the slab in pairs for greater reliability. The reinforcing network should protrude beyond the walls of the cellar by several centimeters from different sides.

As soon as the work on creating the formwork and reinforcing mesh is completed, the process of pouring the concrete solution can begin, which will form the future slab. As a rule, the height of the plate does not exceed 30 cm. This is a reliable, monolithic and high-quality ceiling that will serve you for decades.

Concrete must be poured as evenly as possible, without interruption, until the entire slab is formed. So that cavities do not form inside the structure, the solution must be subjected to vibration before pouring, which is done using an ordinary board or special devices.

After pouring the concrete slab, you need to wait some time (about 3-4 weeks) for it to completely harden and take on its final form. According to experts, such an overlap is the most durable and effective. In addition, if desired, they can even be used as the foundation of a small outbuilding above.

We use prefabricated monolithic slabs

The overlap of prefabricated monolithic slabs is suitable for various types of cellars. But, it must be taken into account that for construction work it will be necessary to hire special lifting equipment.

Installation of such an overlap is carried out by a crane, so, in fact, you don’t have to do anything with your own hands. It is enough to entrust the work to an experienced crane operator, who will install the stove in the right place.

In the case of using concrete slabs, the dimensions of the cellar will have to be correlated with their standard dimensions.

Certain difficulties are associated with the standardization of the dimensions of the slabs, so you will either have to adjust the dimensions of the cellar to the dimensions of the slab, or find out the dimensions of the structure in advance, and based on the information received, make the storage of the desired length and width.

Several prefabricated monolithic slabs can be laid on the cellar. They are fixed to each other with steel beams. At the same time, do not forget about the high-quality heat-insulating layer, which must be laid in the hollow parts. This approach will allow you to maintain a normal temperature in the cellar throughout the year. Upon completion of all work, a certain number of joints are formed, which can be covered with a layer of concrete.

This method of building a ceiling is simple and fast, but it is customary to classify it as very costly (of course, if there is no familiar crane operator). In addition to the use of special equipment, a serious labor force will also be required. It is worth noting that the vault ceiling can be finished as desired.

Option on load-bearing beams

To make a high-quality ceiling for your cellar, you can use load-bearing beams. Metal beams are best suited for this. If possible, you can even use conventional rails, which can often be purchased at construction warehouses or scrap metal collection points. Often the beams from which it is supposed to make the ceiling of the structure are ordered individually at factories.

Even ordinary rails are suitable as load-bearing beams.

When choosing this method of creating a cellar floor, at the stage of its construction, it is necessary to provide for the presence of special holes in the walls that are required for attaching the load-bearing beams. The ceiling of your cellar will experience significant stress. That is why the walls must also be as strong as possible, able to withstand the weight of the beams and soil poured from above. By and large, the walls will be the "foundation" for the ceiling.

For laying beams in the walls, special holes are provided.

The order of work is as follows:

The load-bearing beams are laid in pre-prepared holes in the wall. By and large, this work can be done independently, but with several assistants, because even the rails have significant weight.
In the space that will be formed after laying the load-bearing beams, it is necessary to mount reinforcing bars, and then fix them with a special wire. Next, the reliability of the connection and the stability of the beams are checked. If all is well, then a wooden formwork is made and a waterproofing layer is applied to it.
After the installation of the formwork, it is necessary to install supports that will be designed to take on the load of the cement mortar.
Cement mortar can be mixed with your own hands or ordered ready-made at any construction company. The solution should be poured over the metal frame as evenly as possible and without long breaks. All compartments of the frame must be filled with concrete, something must not be missed. Upon completion of the pouring, the solution is distributed over the entire thickness of the structure.
The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation. In principle, any heat-insulating material is suitable for this.

As a result, you get a reliable floor slab that can withstand heavy loads. The ceiling of the cellar in this case will be perfectly reinforced, insulated and will not cause problems during operation. The resulting overlap after all insulation work must be covered with soil, making a small mound. In some cases, an additional gable roof is installed, which will protect the cellar from the penetration of precipitation.

We provide ventilation

After installing the ceiling, you should also think about organizing a high-quality ventilation system, on the operation of which, in fact, the safety of products in the storage will depend.

Ideally, it is necessary to install two pipes at once, and one will be exhaust (its purpose is to eliminate excessively humid and warm air from the room), and the second supply (responsible for the flow of clean air into the cellar). When using these two pipes in the cellar, the optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be observed throughout the year.

In fact, ventilation must be taken care of even at the stage of the floor installation. For example, you can make two small holes into which ventilation pipes will be installed in the future. If your cellar is small, then it is quite possible to get by with one pipe.

When installing pipes, it is necessary to take into account the fact that precipitation or debris can obstruct the flow of air, so a small cap must be made above the pipe, and a metal mesh must be installed inside, which will also protect insects and rodents from entering the cellar.

Floor insulation

Polyurethane foam evenly fills all seams and cracks.

If you are a connoisseur of everything modern and innovative, then pay attention to polyurethane foam. Today it is one of the best materials that can provide the highest level of thermal insulation of the room. In addition, when using it, you will not need to additionally isolate or fill anything, because when sprayed, polyurethane foam will fill all the cracks and other defects in the wall. It should be noted that the use of this method is very expensive, because polyurethane foam is sprayed using special devices. And for this you will have to hire specialists.

In fact, when insulating the cellar, you can use any heat-insulating material that is suitable in accordance with certain conditions. After all, the specifics of the construction and operation of cellars can be different. Therefore, it is necessary to choose exactly what will be suitable in all respects. For all questions, it is best to consult with specialists in advance.

Cellars and undergrounds are best suited for storing crops. But the underground can not be made in every house, but you can make a cellar even in a site with a high level of groundwater. It is important to know where and how.

Choosing a place for the cellar

The optimal place for a cellar is on a natural or man-made hill. If there are no drops on the site, you need to find the “driest” site with a low groundwater location. You can determine by the vegetation - where it is the smallest, there is water far away.

Ideally, if you have a geological study of the site (ordered when planning a house). There, with sufficient accuracy, the occurrence of aquifers is indicated. If there is no such study, the approximate level of groundwater can be determined by the depth at which the water mirror is located in the wells.

The best place to make a cellar is on a natural hill

Another option is to drill a well at a depth of about 2.5 meters in the proposed location. If there is no water in it, you can make a cellar, buried 2 meters or a little more. It is necessary to drill either in the spring, after the snow melts, or in the autumn after heavy rains. At this time, the highest level of groundwater and surprises in the form of flooding, then you will not have to be afraid.

Based on the results of the research, they are determined with the type of cellar:

If the groundwater level is below 1.5 meters from the surface, a deep cellar can be made.
If the water is at the level of 80 cm, you can make it semi-submerged.
The ground cellar is rather a vegetable store. It requires a lot of work and is rarely done in the private sector.

There is another type of cellar - an underground, which is arranged under the house, if the house has a sufficiently high base (1.5 meters and above). Then they dig a small pit about 2 * 2 meters in size, deepening no more than a meter. At the bottom, with entry to the walls of the pit, waterproofing is laid, gravel (10-15 cm) is poured, and a plank floor is laid. If the water is already close, it is better to pour a concrete slab using standard technology.

The walls are laid out with bricks or a log house is made of impregnated timber, they are well insulated from the outside. The cover of the cellar under the house is made below the floor level, also insulated. A slightly larger cover is arranged in the floor. This completed the construction of the subfloor. This type of cellar makes sense only in a house of permanent residence - it will always have a positive temperature. In houses of seasonal residence without heating in winter, it will freeze, so it makes no sense to cost such a cellar in the country.

materials

The choice of material for the cellar also depends on the level of groundwater. In a dry place, you can build with whatever you want - any material suitable for this purpose: impregnated wood, brick, concrete, building blocks.

If the water is close to the surface, it is necessary that the material is not afraid of moisture, has a low hygroscopicity (preferably close to zero) or has the ability to significantly reduce it. But these requirements are met, in general, only concrete and metal. Concrete is preferable - it is definitely not afraid of getting wet, it does not absorb water very much, although it can conduct it through capillaries. Concrete is good because there are various ways to make it almost impervious to water in any form:

Additives are additives that give concrete certain properties. Including there are additives that make it practically non-conductive and non-absorbent.
Hygroscopicity can be reduced by vibrating concrete during laying (there are special vibrators for concrete). Due to the compaction of the structure, its density becomes much higher, hygroscopicity decreases.
Deep penetration treatment. For concrete, cement-based compositions are used, which include polymers. Polymers block the capillaries through which water seeps through. Double treatment allows 6-8 cuts to reduce the amount of moisture seeping through the concrete.
Rubber paint. It is used for swimming pools, but in extreme cases it can help keep moisture out of the cellar.

All these tools in a complex, or one or two to choose from, will help make the cellar dry, even in areas with a high level of groundwater.

You can also build a cellar on high groundwater from metal. A sealed box of the right size is brewed, spacers are welded to the bottom and walls. This metal box is treated from the outside with an anti-corrosion compound (several times) and buried in the ground. If the seams are done well, water will not seep through, but there is another problem - with a lot of water, this box can be pushed to the surface. To prevent this from happening, spacers are welded, but they help only up to a certain pressure created by water. It may well happen that such a cellar “floats up”.

The metal cellar will not leak, but it can “float”

When building a cellar with a high level of groundwater, ceramic bricks are still acceptable. But over time, it crumbles from water, although there is an opportunity to significantly reduce its hygroscopicity - process it several times with the same deep penetration impregnation. And yet, a brick with high water is only an extreme option.

How to make a concrete cellar with mobile formwork

The standard technology for building a concrete cellar has been described many times. It is not very good, because a large amount of material is needed for the formwork, and digging a pit is not happy - it must be much larger than the dimensions of the cellar in order to be able to install this formwork. There is a more rational technology - with a concrete knife and phased pouring of the walls. This tactic is used in the construction of wells, but can be used to build a cellar.

Pour the knife

It all starts with filling the knife. His profile is shown in the picture. In the figure, it is drawn round - under the well, but it is better to make the cellar rectangular. This concrete knife is poured right on the spot. So, we dig a small pit around the perimeter of the future cellar. In cross section, the pit should be triangular, with a bevel directed inside the perimeter (as in the photo above).

We knit a reinforcement frame of the same shape. In this case, fiberglass reinforcement was used - it is cheaper and easier to deliver. Steel will be used for the ceiling and floor.

When making the frame, we leave the reinforcement outlets 15-20 cm long, directed upwards - the next reinforcement belt will be tied to them. The frame is installed in a finished pit, covered with a film. This is necessary so that the walls of the knife are smooth and pass the ground well.

We make concrete in a concrete mixer - the small volumes required for one pour do not allow ordering at the factory. We make concrete grade M 250 (1 part of M 500 cement requires 1.9 parts of sand and 3.1 parts of crushed stone, water - 0.75). To increase the strength, polypropylene fiber is added, and Penetron-Admix (an additive for greater strength) is dissolved in water.

Concrete is made of low flow, as it will be processed by a vibrator. The sides were filled in stages, immediately processing with a submersible vibrator.

Making walls

Next, the concrete was covered with a film, periodically moistened. While he was setting, they were collecting formwork. The edged board 40 * 150 * 6000 mm was passed by a planer, the formwork panels of four boards were knocked down. In height, they turned out to be about 80 cm. When assembling, the boards were fitted tightly so that the mortar would flow out less.

We waited until the concrete gained its design strength (more than a month has passed since the pouring). To make a cellar using this technology, the knife must be durable. The frame of the next row was tied to the reinforcement outlets left earlier. At the same time, we also leave issues of the order of 15-20 cm for the "binding" of the next belt.

To increase the rigidity of the frame, the corners are reinforced with a metal bar bent in the form of the letter “L” (side length 40 cm).

We put formwork panels. So that they do not fall apart when pouring concrete, they are fastened inside and outside with corners. Inside, 4 corners are placed (on self-tapping screws), outside - 2 each. The distance between the two shields is fixed with studs (they are visible in the photo below).

So that the walls of the cellar were smooth and water did not leave the concrete, the inner surface of the formwork was sheathed with polyethylene. The surface of the first standing concrete must be cleaned of dust that has accumulated. We do this with a high pressure washer (available on the farm). Next, we install the formwork, pour concrete, process it with a vibrator.

We cover the poured concrete with polyethylene, periodically water it. Formwork can be removed after two or three days. After a few more days, you can begin to lower the walls. To do this, we take out the soil inside the perimeter. We dig evenly so that the walls sit without distortions.

For the first time, the walls sagged by about 60 cm. This is the height of the wall pour (about 20 cm of the formwork overlaps the previous fill.

Further, according to the “knurled” technology - we tie the reinforcement, reinforce the corners, put the formwork. Only this time, in order to make it more convenient to place the shields, inside, about 15 cm below the edge, pieces of boards are stuffed. They rest on the inner shield.

Then the outer shields are installed. They "hang" on the lower studs threaded through both shields. The top studs fix the required wall width. Shields are tightened in the corners with metal corners.

Studs on which the shield "hangs"

Next - pouring, vibrating, covering, waiting. After a week and a half, you can continue to deepen. We do this until the walls are of the design height. In this case, it took 4 fills of 60 cm each. The total height turned out to be 2.4 m. They buried it so that the upper cut was slightly below the ground level.

Those bottles that are put on the reinforcement are necessary so that the film covering the concrete does not tear. The idea turned out to be very useful.

On the earthen floor was spread out. It will compensate for uneven loads. It also serves as a "rug - then a lot of work on your knees.

Stopper

Connected frame for the "stopper" of the knife

To install it, we drill holes in the knife, into which we drive reinforcing bars. We tie the connected frame to them, leaving the outlets of the reinforcement for connection with the reinforcement of the floor.

We put the formwork, fill the “stopper” with concrete.

Former knife turned into an "anchor"

Concrete cellar floor

After the concrete has set, we disassemble the formwork, it's time to make the floor. First, the base is made. Sand was poured onto the geotextile (about 10 cm), leveled with a shovel, then with a rake, then with a roller. Two buckets of cement were scattered over the entire surface, mixed with a rake with a top layer of sand, and again compacted with a roller. They spilled water from a watering can with a dissolved Penetron-Admix additive, rammed it with a manual rammer. After tamping, sand is not crushed underfoot.

This operation was repeated two more times. The top layer is flush with the edge of the stopper. Let the preparation under the stove dry. After drying, the crust is very durable.

The base was washed and dried. They laid the finished stack of 6 mm wire in 10 mm increments. The grid was connected with the releases of the reinforcement from the knife. She was put on pieces of boards, which were removed as they were poured.

From two strings stretched from corner to corner, beacons were made for pouring concrete - the total height of the slab is 10 cm.

Overlapping and ventilation

We disassemble one formwork shield, nail the docks, stepping back from the upper edge of the wall 40 mm - this is exactly the thickness of the boards. In one corner we install a meter pipe, fasten it with one clamp, in the opposite we put a three-meter pipe on three clamps.

Three formwork panels fit perfectly on the attached boards. We disassemble the rest, cut it so that there is a hatch for the entrance. The gaps between the boards are sealed with mounting foam, after polymerization, the excess is cut flush with the boards.

Below, from the cellar, spacers are installed. At the top they are fixed with corners, at the bottom, trimmings are laid under the boards so as not to push through the not fully matured concrete.

From above, the boards and the wall are washed with a high pressure washer and dried. Covered with a layer of roofing material, which was attached to the boards with staples from a construction stapler. The entrance to the cellar is 1*1 meter in size, its edges are limited by formwork boards.

Next, formwork is installed around the perimeter. We fasten the boards, tighten them in the corners with long nails. Then we wrap it with roofing felt, install spacers that rest on driven stakes. Powerful struts are needed - the weight will press a lot.

We also make three reinforcing beams - two lower bars 16 mm, two upper 14 mm, they are interconnected by an 8 mm bar. Two beams were tied, ready to be laid in place, connecting them with the releases of reinforcement from the walls. The third was assembled on the spot - its rods pass through the finished beams.

After 12 mm reinforcement, we knit a mesh with a step of 20 cm. We tie the bars to the outlets from the wall. Some difficulties arose when bypassing the ventilation pipes. I had to bend the armature. The bars that ended near the entrance were bent 15-20 cm up. The reinforcing cage for the entrance will then be attached to them.

In order to conduct electricity to the cellar, two holes were drilled, the wires in the corrugated pipe were passed through them. Next, they filled everything with concrete.

A few days later, when he seized, a formwork was installed over the entrance. First, the inner box, then the reinforcement frame, then the outer one. Also filled with concrete.

After the concrete gained design strength (28 days from pouring), the wall half a meter down and the floor slab were sheathed with insulation - EPS (extruded polystyrene foam). He was "planted" on bituminous mastic - along with waterproofing.

The props inside are left for two months. Then almost everything was removed, leaving only a couple, just in case. The first crop appeared in the cellar.

Now you know how to make a concrete cellar with a phased pouring of the walls. It took a lot of time, but the costs turned out to be stretched over time.

Cellar in a country house made of bricks (under)

For the construction of a brick cellar, our summer cottage is 100% suitable - groundwater is below 3 meters, the soils are dense, non-porous, so they dug a pit 2.5 meters deep. The dimensions of the cellar are 2.2 * 3.5 m, the pit, respectively, is slightly larger. The entrance to the cellar will be from a viewing hole, and a utility block (metal container) will be installed above the entire “complex”. To save a used brick is taken.

The floor was done as the old people advised: rubble and broken bricks were poured into the bottom in layers, all this was covered with clay and rammed. They leveled the floor, pouring sand, it was also tamped down, after wetting it. Then they began to lay the walls in half a brick. The soil is non-porous, so there is no need to worry about the fact that the walls will be squeezed out.

The gap remaining between the brick and the wall of the pit was covered with clay, which was also well rammed - protection from the top water, which will look for where to leak.

The walls were driven out a little above the ground level, they were covered with a cut board. They laid it tightly - this will be the formwork for the cellar floor slab. From below, the boards were supported with spacers, and a film was laid on top - so that the concrete would not seep into the existing cracks. We put up the sides of the boards, limiting the future slab. The boards in the corners were fastened with corner ties.

Two plastic pipes are inserted into the future ceiling, in opposite corners of the cellar. This is a ventilation system. The slab will be insulated - 5 cm of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) will be laid.

On top of the insulation made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, a mesh is connected with a step of 20 cm. The mesh rests on pieces of brick. It is raised above the EPS by 4 cm, the total thickness of the plate is about 10 cm.

Concrete was ordered at the factory - there is an entrance to the dacha. When poured, they bayoneted well.

While the concrete is "ripening", the walls of the inspection pit and the steps into it are laid out.

After removing the formwork, it will be possible to put a metal hozblok on top.

Basement floor is cold
Mold and fungus will gradually grow on its surface and on the walls.

The appearance of such troubles leads to:

To damage the repair
To the accelerated destruction of the structure
Deteriorating the health of people living in the house

When an unheated basement is planned in a residential building, thermal insulation of the floor above the basement is always necessary. Since, firstly, the walls in the cold basement are not insulated, and the temperature in the basement is negative in winter. A cold floor means uncomfortable conditions in the room, and a significant cost overrun of energy for heating. And, secondly, the moist soil in the underground throughout the year continuously releases moisture in the form of water vapor, which saturates the wooden logs. The surface of the basement ceiling, which is not insulated and not protected from moisture, will easily transfer cold and dampness to the room, which is located above. The basement microclimate promotes the development of mold and fungus on the walls.

Therefore, floor insulation should be taken seriously: layers of steam, hydro and thermal insulation should be included in the floor construction.

As a rule, when constructing floors, wooden beams 150 mm wide are used. When installing a heater between the beams, the heat-insulating layer turns out to be heterogeneous, because every 60-100 cm, instead of a heater, a load-bearing wooden beam will be located. Depending on the step of the beams, the share of insulation in such a “pseudo-thermal-insulating” layer is from 70 to 85%. And the rest of the floor surface is nothing but heat-conducting inclusions called cold bridges. In order for a wooden beam not to be a bridge of cold, but to perform heat-saving functions, its thickness must be at least 60 cm (for example, a house in the Moscow region). It becomes obvious that even when using a wooden beam with a section of 20x20 cm, that is, a height less than necessary three times, heat losses through cold bridges will be three times higher than normalized ones!

From this we can draw 3 conclusions:

cold bridges do not provide full insulation
installation of insulation between wooden beams should be done only in seasonal residences (for example, summer cottages)
insulation between the beams should be considered only as an additional to the main continuous layer, in order to increase the heat-shielding properties of the floor structure.

So how to properly insulate the floor above a cold basement so as not to pay for heat loss?

The right solution for floor insulation is the installation of a continuous thermal insulation layer, without cold bridges, which are formed when insulation is laid between wooden beams. This is possible in the case when the insulation layer will be located not between the beams, but under them or on top of them. At the same time, when laying, it must ensure the density of the joints, be strong and rigid in order to transfer all loads from the floors to the floor beams.

The heater must:

withstand loads - do not shrink like fibrous insulation
be durable - not fibrous and does not crumble like foam balls
be energy efficient - have a minimum thermal conductivity (maximum thermal insulation)
and, of course, to be environmentally friendly, that is, not emitting harmful substances into the room, such as phenols or styrenes

All these advantages are contained in an innovative insulation - thermal insulation PIR boards based on polyisocyanurate foam. Polyisocyanurate foam, despite its "long" name, is a type of polyurethane with significantly improved thermal conductivity and fire resistance characteristics.

Used to insulate floors above a cold basement PIR boards PIRRO 30, 50 and 100 mm thick. The slabs have "quarter" and "thorn-groove" profiles on all sides, which provide a tight joint during laying and the absence of cold bridges.

PIR plate PIRRO– thermal insulation board made of rigid polyisocyanurate (PIR), lined with alumina laminate. Foil and aluminum laminate linings play the role of a diffusion-tight coating that provides vapor and air tightness and stability of the thermal characteristics of the material for the entire service life

Fire safety. PIR thermal insulation of floors above the basement has high fire-resistant properties: under the influence of a flame, polyisocyanurate is charred, forming a crust that protects intact polymer layers.
Moisture resistance. Low water absorption ensures the stability of the characteristics of the plate throughout the entire service life.
Easy installation. PIR insulation in slabs for basement wooden floors is cut with a construction knife, a hacksaw. During the work with a plate fibrous dust is not formed, means of protection of respiratory organs are not required. PIR insulation for the basement has a low volumetric weight.
Environmental friendliness. PIR thermal insulation for the basement is environmentally friendly in operation, does not contain styrenes and formaldehydes, is a chemically inert product. Not affected by mold and mildew.
High strength. The insulation in PIR-plates for basement floors is designed for free movement along them during the installation of floors.

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroUniversal

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroThermo

Specifications of Pirro PIR BoardsWall

Technical characteristics of PIR-plates PirroKraft

Instructions for insulating concrete floors above a cold basement

1 step

Preparation of the bottom surface of the plate. For ceilings made of reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to check the quality of the joints between the slabs, if necessary, caulk with a cement-sand mortar. To clear a surface of plates of solution deposits.

2 step

The device of the heat-insulating layer. When installing the plates, they should be placed with an offset in adjacent rows, in a checkerboard pattern. As fasteners, plate-shaped dowels with a driving expansion element or a screw are used. Gaps in the places where the heat-insulating layer adjoins the walls must be filled with polyurethane foam.
Note: It is also possible to insulate the concrete floor above the cold basement from the side of the warm room - according to the technology of warming the interfloor floor, but without measures for the installation of floating floors.

Instructions for warming wooden floors above a cold basement (over beams)

1 step

Foundation preparation. Treat wooden beams with a bioprotective compound. It is recommended to arrange a sparse boardwalk, which will ensure the convenience of work and serve as a basis for laying PIR boards in the future.

2 step

The device of the heat-insulating layer. Lay the insulation boards across the beams (or across the completed boardwalk).
When laying the slabs, they should be placed offset in adjacent rows, in a checkerboard pattern.
To provide the plates with a given position, fix them from displacement with nails or self-tapping screws. In the future, do not dismantle the fastener if its caps are recessed into the slab. Gaps in the places where the heat-insulating layer adjoins the walls must be filled with polyurethane foam.

3 step

The device is hydro-, vapor barrier. If the floors are tiled on the screed, then use plastic wrap as a vapor barrier. For wooden floors, an alternative insulation method is to glue the board joints with aluminum adhesive tape. Fix the film from displacement using a construction stapler; it is recommended to connect the joints of the panels with adhesive tape, providing an overlap of at least 15 cm.

4 step

The device of a basis under floors. For tiled floors: perform a cement-sand or prefabricated screed. The screed is carried out directly on the vapor barrier. For wooden floors: batten with a board at least 100 mm wide, fastening it to wooden beams (or sparse decking) with wood screws.

5 step

Floor covering.

Recommendations for the insulation of wooden and reinforced concrete floors above an unheated basement

If the floor covering will be made of wood, for example, tongue-and-groove boards, then a layer of lathing is required between such a covering and vapor-waterproofing. The crate is installed along the beams and forms an air gap. In case of leaks from above, the floor will remain dry.
A screed for laying a tiled floor can be made with a cement-sand mortar or a two-layer prefabricated one, for example, from DSP or GVLV sheets. The layers in the prefabricated screed are performed with mandatory dressing of the seams, that is, the joints of the sheets of the upper layer should be offset relative to the joints of the lower layer of the sheet width.
You should carefully consider the level of humidity in a cold basement (underground). The traditional way to maintain normal humidity is ventilation through vents - holes in the basement wall located around the perimeter of the house and having a cross section of at least 1/400 of the area of the basement floor. Through the vents, water vapor is removed from the unheated basement to the street (provided that the humidity in the basement is higher than on the street).
Thus, the durability of the wooden floor is ensured - the load-bearing wooden beams of the floor remain dry, and the conditions for the formation of mold and fungus disappear.
For houses of seasonal residence for the winter, the vents should be left open (put a grid), for heated houses (year-round use), the section of the vents should be reduced, or closed, provided that normal humidity is ensured in the basement (for example, when installing vapor barrier soil, when installing a ventilation system).

For owners of private houses, the cellar is an indispensable building for storing food for a long time. arrange below ground level.

This design has many advantages - the place on the site remains free, a stable temperature is maintained throughout the year. The ceiling of the cellar, made in accordance with building codes, must ensure the strength of the structure, maintain the required temperature and humidity conditions.

Before starting the construction of the cellar with your own hands, you must consider the following points:

work begins with the layout of the premises;
determine the level of groundwater. Waterproofing the room is necessary if the groundwater level is higher than the cellar floor. For this, as a rule, roofing material and brick are used. - an important point that affects the temperature and humidity of the room.

At the end of the work related to the construction of walls and waterproofing of the premises, the question arises - how to make the ceiling of the cellar.

Types of floors

To ensure the tightness of the cellars, various designs are used, in which they are used:

solid reinforced concrete slabs;
reinforced concrete monolithic prefabricated elements;
bearing beams;
wooden structures;
monolithic covering on a professional flooring.

A common option, practical and reliable, is a monolithic reinforced concrete block made of concrete and a reinforcing cage.

Monolithic overlap

The cellar is covered with concrete after the construction of the wooden formwork. Overlapping in its dimensions should exceed the dimensions of the room. Special supports must withstand the formwork structure after pouring it with concrete and during drying. Formwork is pre-sealed to prevent leakage of mortar during pouring.

After the formwork is installed, the concrete slab frame is strapped. The reinforcing mesh of the frame should protrude beyond the walls of the cellar by several centimeters from all sides. The interval between the bars of the mesh is 20-25 cm. A single-layer reinforcing cage provides reliability, but to increase strength, it is recommended to perform two-layer reinforcement.

Then the process of pouring the concrete composition begins, which forms the future slab; usually, the height of the slab does not exceed 30 cm. The pouring of concrete is carried out evenly, continuously, until the entire slab is formed.

During pouring, the concrete is subjected to vibration with an ordinary board or rebar to prevent the formation of air cavities. Proper pouring of the composition will make the ceiling monolithic and durable, which will last for decades. After pouring, the concrete slab should stand for a month until it completely hardens.

According to experts, such a do-it-yourself cellar overlap is durable and effective. The high strength of the monolithic structure allows it to be used as a foundation for the construction of various buildings.

Plates

Overlapping from prefabricated monolithic slabs can be used for various types of cellars. For carrying out construction work, it is required to hire special lifting equipment. In this case, the dimensions of the cellar are adjusted to the dimensions of the slab at the stage of developing the premises.

Several slabs are laid on the cellar. A heat-insulating layer is laid in the hollow spaces of the plates. The joints between the slabs are sealed with concrete. This method of construction significantly reduces the time of work.

Use of beams

Method of overlapping on load-bearing beams. How to cover the cellar? It is possible to use conventional rails. I-beams are also distinguished by high strength as load-bearing beams.

Metal load-bearing beams can be used to cover the cellar. For this purpose, conventional rails are suitable, which can be purchased at metal depots or at scrap metal collection points.

With this method of erecting the cellar floor at the stage of wall construction, it is necessary to provide for the presence of special grooves for attaching the supporting beams. A ceiling with beams will exert significant loads on the walls, so the walls must be as strong as possible.

Work order:

Bearing beams are laid in pre-prepared grooves in the wall. Beams can be of considerable weight, so it is more convenient to stack them with two people.
Reinforcing bars fixed with wire are mounted in the space between the beams.
A wooden formwork is installed and a waterproofing layer is applied to it. After the formwork is installed, supports are placed that can withstand the load of the cement mortar.
The concrete mortar is evenly poured into the formwork without interruption. The solution is compacted with wooden rammers so that there are no voids in the thickness of the structure.

Thermal waterproofing of concrete floors

Overlapping requires high-quality thermal insulation. For this purpose, you can use almost any heat-insulating material available for sale. A concrete floor made in this way can withstand severe loads. After waterproofing work, the ceiling can be covered with soil from above or additionally protected from precipitation by a gable roof.

wooden structures

Wooden beams - a time-tested material for overlapping. Work order:

treat with an antiseptic all the wooden parts of the structure;
wrap the supporting surfaces of the beams with two layers of roofing material;
install wooden beams on the top of the cellar walls;
fix the end part of the beams with small planks, creating the basis for the rolling boards;
lay the boardwalk, securing it with self-tapping screws.

Before overlapping with wooden beams, waterproofing is laid

We cover with corrugated board

Monolithic flooring on corrugated board is a modern way to cover the cellar. The technology does not require significant costs and reduces the time of work.

An I-beam is placed in the grooves on the cellar wall. A sheet of corrugated board is installed on an I-beam. The corrugation is oriented with its expansion downwards. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws at the joints and at the junction with the beams.

A longitudinal reinforcement is placed in each rib with a pitch of 190-200 mm and connected with a transverse bar placed over the sheet in vertical segments. Supports are evenly mounted between the beams to avoid deflection of the corrugated board. Concrete is being poured. A month later, the supports are dismantled.

In another embodiment, corrugated board is laid out on the inner shelf of the I-beam. Laying is carried out along the length of the sheet, i.e. corrugations across the span of the beams. The structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured over the entire thickness of the I-beam.

In the third option, the corrugated board is installed without supporting beams. Installation is carried out with the support of corrugated board and reinforcement on the walls with temporary supporting supports. The sheet of corrugated board is fixed on the embedded columns with an anchor for metal. The reinforcement is welded to the embedded columns at all points of contact. Overlapping is recommended to be poured with concrete at a time.

Ventilation

When choosing options for how to block the cellar, it is necessary to think over the installation of ventilation in advance. At the stage of the overlap device, it is recommended to make holes for the installation of ventilation pipes in the future.

The safety of products in storage largely depends on high-quality ventilation. The best ventilation will be provided by two pipes, one of which will be exhaust and the other supply. The pipes are placed diagonally in opposite corners, due to which the air circulation will be more intense.

One of the asbestos-cement pipes should be lowered almost to the basement floor and not reach it by 15-20 cm. The other pipe should be installed almost at the level of the basement ceiling and protrude no more than 5-7 cm.

No objects should be placed near the pipes so as not to obstruct the air flow. To prevent precipitation, debris, insects and rodents from entering the cellar, caps are mounted above the ventilation pipes, and a metal mesh is installed inside the pipe.

Floor insulation

Floor insulation is another important stage of construction along with waterproofing and thermal insulation of walls. The heat-insulating layer can be created with a cement mortar with wood chips about 4 cm thick.

A high level of thermal insulation is provided by modern polyurethane foam material. The advantage of the material is ease of installation; it practically does not increase the weight of the insulated surface. The disadvantage is that the material is expensive.

How to fill the ceiling in the cellar - the answer to the question depends on financial capabilities, individual preferences. The right choice will make the room functional and durable.

The owners of private houses use the basement to ensure the safety of the crop and conservation. The construction does not require additional space, since the cellar is located below the soil level in the foundation part of the building. In this case, it is important to carry out the overlap of the cellar in compliance with the rules of construction. This will ensure the reliability of the design, will maintain favorable humidity and temperature. Consider how to make the ceiling of the cellar on your own.

Getting ready to build a ceiling for the cellar - preparatory work

Storage for grown crops is often arranged in a garage. When planning to build a basement in a garage with your own hands, it is important to take into account all the nuances:

make sure that there are no engineering communications below the soil level at the work site. This requirement is especially relevant in the city, where various highways can be located. If it is possible to go deep into the soil up to three meters, you can proceed to the next task;
carry out survey activities aimed at determining the depth of the aquifers and assessing the quality of the soil. Professional surveyors will perform research, present an official conclusion. With increased moisture saturation, drainage and reliable protection of walls and floors should be provided;
develop an optimal layout of the basement, taking into account all the features. You should pay attention to the shape and dimensions of the basement, which in size should correspond to the contour of the garage room. It is important to choose the right material, as well as the technology for building the foundation.

The traditional cellar is arranged so that its entire room is located below ground level.

To ensure a comfortable microclimate, it is important to pay attention to the following points:

providing reliable moisture insulation. Under conditions of normal humidity, dampness will not develop;
performance of effective thermal insulation. One of the main tasks in this case is the correct insulation of the ceiling in the cellar;
building a ventilation system. Thanks to air circulation, comfortable conditions will be maintained.

Having comprehensively solved the listed tasks, it is possible to equip the ceiling of the cellar in the garage.

How to protect the cellar from moisture with your own hands

Basement waterproofing protects it from moisture saturation. It is produced according to the following algorithm:

Plaster the wall surfaces with a moisture-resistant cement mortar.
Glue the sheet roofing felt to the surface of the plaster.
Build the brickwork by pressing the waterproofing material.

To waterproof the floor, pour a gravel-sand mixture on the surface, compact it to a thickness of 15–20 cm.

This design has many advantages: stable temperature throughout the year

The construction of the basement ceiling is carried out after the construction of the walls, the concreting of the base and the performance of waterproofing works. There are a number of points to consider:

choose the material for the manufacture of the ceiling;
study the technology of work;
calculate the amount of necessary building materials;
determine the overall level of costs;
prepare tools and building materials.

To maintain a comfortable humidity, it is necessary to consider the design of the hood. Air exchange is carried out in various ways:

natural. Ventilation is provided with the help of a supply line and an exhaust pipe due to a temperature difference;
forced. To improve circulation efficiency, a small-sized fan unit is used.

By doing all the activities yourself, you can save a lot of money.

Before making any cellar, the level of groundwater is taken into account

What designs of ceilings for the cellar are used

For the construction of the basement ceiling, various solutions are used:

solid concrete slabs reinforced with reinforcement;
prefabricated reinforced concrete ceilings made of standard elements;
beam structures made of wood;
durable beams made from rolled metal.

Let us dwell in detail on the features of each option and construction technology.

How to make a cellar ceiling in the form of a monolithic slab

When thinking about how to make a cellar with your own hands, it is important to ensure the reliability of the ceiling structure. Many prefer a solid ceiling made of reinforced concrete.

The sequence of actions for the formation of a monolithic concrete surface:

Decide on the dimensions of the solid block, cut the material for the manufacture of formwork.
Assemble the panel formwork, securely reinforce it with strong vertical supports.
Check the tightness of the wooden structure and, if necessary, seal the cracks.
Tie the spatial reinforcement grid using steel rods with a diameter of 1–1.2 cm.
Make sure that the frame is immobile, as well as a fixed distance to the formwork edge of 40–50 mm.
Fill the assembled formwork with concrete mortar without stopping until the volume is completely filled.
Remove air bubbles from the slurry using special vibrators or rebar.
Ensure the immobility of the hardening concrete for a month, then dismantle the formwork.

As soon as the work on creating formwork and reinforcing mesh is completed, the process of pouring concrete mortar can begin.

To ensure the strength of the erected structures, the following requirements must be observed:

ensure a distance between horizontal formwork beams of 0.5–0.6 m;
observe a constant interval between vertical posts of 1–1.5 m;
maintain a step between reinforcing bars equal to 15–20 cm;
form a solid reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 18–20 cm.

For the construction of the shield frame, moisture-resistant plywood can be used, and the supporting structure can be made of steel telescopic racks. The formed reinforced concrete slab must rest on the walls of the basement by at least 15 cm.

We form the ceiling of the cellar in the garage from prefabricated panels

To form the flow, you can use prefabricated-monolithic technology. It involves the use of standard reinforced concrete panels produced in an industrial environment.

Given the significant mass and size of the plates, certain difficulties arise when performing work:

transportation requires lifting equipment and the involvement of professionals who will install the ceiling for the basement;
the dimensions of the room must correspond to the dimensions of the plates. Standard reinforced concrete panels are 9–12 meters long;
plates must be ordered in advance, as well as delivered to the work site in a timely manner;
the width of the basement should be a multiple of the width of the panel, taking into account the gaps that must be carefully concreted.

Overlapping of prefabricated monolithic slabs is suitable for various types of cellars

The sequence of actions for installing a prefabricated monolithic structure:

Lay the slabs with a minimum gap on the top plane of the walls.
Seal the joints with heat-insulating material.
Fill the gaps between the panels with concrete mix.
Glue the roofing material to the surface of the plates with mastic.

The advantages of this method are an insignificant level of costs and the ability to reduce the time of work.

We make a floor in the basement of wood

Using a wooden beam structure is a proven method for arranging a basement floor.

Sequence of work:

Saturate the wood with an antiseptic.
Waterproof the supporting planes of the beams with roofing material.
Install the beams on the end surface of the walls, fix them.
Attach boards to the beams, lay the heat-insulating material.
Cover the thermal insulation with sheet roofing material.
Fill the resulting structure with soil or fill it with a thin layer of screed.

To ensure the rigidity of the structure, it is important to install the bars in pre-prepared grooves.

The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation.

We build a steel ceiling in the cellar

With the help of an I-beam, you can easily form a reliable structure by performing work in the following order:

Install the profiles, secure them with steel rods.
Assemble the panel formwork and secure it with vertical posts.
Lay waterproofing, fill the formwork with concrete mix.
Spread and compact the concrete evenly.

This design is capable of taking significant loads.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling for the cellar

Various materials are used for thermal insulation of premises:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
expanded polystyrene.

It is allowed to use sawdust, which is mixed with cement and applied in a uniform layer on the surface.

How to block the ceiling - summing up

The decision to choose the optimal flooring option is made individually. It is important to figure out how to make the ceiling of the cellar, and carefully study the technology. A properly made structure can be used for decades.

pobetony.expert

Cellar or basement cover

The size of the cellar room primarily depends on how much things you plan to store in it, and in shape it can be round, square and multifaceted. The design of the cellar includes: the lower part, which goes into the ground, and the ground part (cellar), which is designed to protect the premises from high summer temperatures and winter frosts.

We will talk about how best to make the ceiling of the cellar, what are the nuances and what you need to pay special attention to in certain options for building a basement.

External arrangement of the basement

For the construction of the cellar, various building materials can be used, such as wood, concrete, natural stone, brick, or boards with their further backfilling. The cellar can be used as a regular pantry. Above the cellar room, a ceiling is made in the form of flooring from boards on pre-mounted beams, and from above it is covered with heat-insulating material.

It is necessary to take a very responsible attitude to the construction of the vault of the cellar:

an earthen cellar should have a gable roof that descends to ground level. For its construction, you can use reeds, branches or straw, which is mixed with clay. The roof sheathing itself is made of boards, under the bottom of which roofing material or roofing felt is placed. Often, in order to exclude freezing, the ceiling is insulated with peat;
the roof of the cellar, in the design of which the cellar is provided, is pitched, and to ensure the dryness of the walls, the overhangs must be protruding;
performing the correct calculation and masonry of the vaulted roof of the stone cellar will ensure the strength and reliability of the entire building. It is made on formwork made of wood with circles, which must be carried out simultaneously on both sides. In the presence of dry places, vaults can be built from unfired red brick;
the roof of the ground cellar with deboning is made of clay, which is mixed with straw. After that, polyethylene or roofing material is applied to it.

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Basement floor options

The scheme of waterproofing from the side of the cellar: 1- cellar overlap; 2- wooden frame; 3- brick wall of the cellar; 4- coating with bituminous mastic; 5- backfilling of the sinuses; 6- concrete base; 7- preparation from compacted rubble; 8- pasting anti-pressure waterproofing; 9 - protective wall; 10 - cement plaster.

After the foundation pit is filled at ground level, the next stage of construction follows - the cellar overlap. As a rule, for this purpose, a kind of cornice is built around the entire perimeter of the pit of ceramic red brick. It should be noted that the laying of each row of bricks should protrude outward by about 3 cm more than the previous row. Then the cornice is covered with roofing material, on top of which any of the bulk insulation must be laid. After that, you need to make a cement screed, the thickness of which is at least 2 cm, and paste over with roofing material.

For the construction of the vault, various materials can be used, it all depends on the type of structure and the availability of funds for this, but in any case, the structure must be strong, since it will be subjected to a large load. In addition, close attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the basement floor.

You can also make a basement ceiling out of wood. For this, beams are initially made, and after that they are covered with bars or boards. It should be noted that when using wood for the construction of a basement floor, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

After installation of the floor from the boards, thermal insulation material is applied. Alternatively, you can use ordinary clay, which is subsequently covered with dry earth. The thermal insulation layer must be at least 0.5 m thick.

In the use of wood for the construction of the basement, there is one, but a very significant drawback - the wood is susceptible to decay.

The scheme of the cellar overlap is from a slab insulated with clay grease and earth.

Therefore, wooden floors quite often have to be repaired.

According to experts, the best material for covering the basement is a reinforced concrete slab or concrete mixture. Of course, due to the presence of reinforcement in a reinforced concrete slab, it is much stronger than concrete. With this design of the overlap, special attention should be paid to the sealing of the seams. For this purpose, you need to use a cement mortar. Often, it is necessary to produce concrete, and mortar, at home, while it is best to give preference to cement with the M 200 or M 300 brand.

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Features of the use of concrete slabs

After the reinforced concrete slabs are laid, and the joints are sealed with cement mortar, their surface is covered with 2 layers of heated bitumen, and sheet roofing material is laid on top of them. For insulation of the plate, as a rule, slag wool is used.

Often, a cellar is built above the cellar with such an overlap, this will create additional protection for it. The shelter of the cellar itself is recommended to be made of materials that do not transmit heat well. Experts also argue that the door must be built on the north side so that on a hot summer day it is less heated by the sun's rays.

In the basement floor, a hatch is often made, which is intended for the entry of fresh air. It is recommended to build a ventilation system in the basement. For this, only two pipes are needed, which are brought out into the street through a hatch or directly through the ceiling.

A cellar can be built either under a building or in an open area. In the first option, the floor is always built flat, and in the second it can also be made gable.

The correct overlap created under the building must necessarily rest on the ground or on the beams. In both options, it is best to use large-panel reinforced concrete slabs. It should not be forgotten that before installing them, it is necessary to first lay boards under the plates, which will be necessary for filing the ceiling surface. The resulting ceiling voids must be filled with heat-insulating material before filing. The slabs must be welded at their crest and rest on the beam, and the lower part on the ground. This position of the plates will reduce the load on the walls.

How to make a basement floor in the absence of large-panel reinforced concrete slabs? According to experts, slate can be used, under which a solid base must first be mounted. At the same time, the floor seams are sealed with cement mortar, after which the slate floor is covered with soil, which is tightly compacted.

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Covering the basement during the construction of the garage

Many vehicle owners have a garage that has a concrete block basement. Such a garage will allow you to store in it not only equipment and spare parts, but also products. In order to feel completely safe while in the garage, you need to adhere to some fundamental conditions when building a cellar.

When building a basement, the main attention should be paid to the design of the floor itself, since its diversity depends on the size of the garage, the size of the basement, and, of course, on the amount of equipment that will be left in the garage. Experts recommend providing for a basement in terms of construction work even before they begin. Then, when organizing the sequence of work, it will be possible to optimally take into account all the requirements imposed on the design.

One of the important parameters of the overlap is its strength. It should not be forgotten that it primarily depends on the strength of the support of this overlap. In the complex construction of a garage with a basement, it is best to use standard concrete slabs as a floor. Thus, the basement walls will act as a supporting foundation for the entire garage building and at the same time a support element.

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The influence of soil on the construction of the basement

During operation, the basement walls will be subjected to horizontal forces from all sides of the surrounding soil. These forces are trying to deform them. Based on this, the thickness of the walls being erected should increase in proportion to the depth of the pit. Cellar walls are best built from concrete blocks. If there are not enough funds to purchase them, concrete walls can be built using slipforms instead.

The bottom of the cellar is covered with a layer of crushed stone approximately 10 cm thick and a layer of sand at least 5 cm thick. After that, a strip foundation is built. It should be noted that the walls of the cellar, its ceiling and the entire structure of the garage space will affect this foundation.

In order to do everything properly, experts recommend conducting survey work at the building site. This will make it possible to find out if underground utilities are located below, for example, an electric or telephone cable, or maybe groundwater is close enough to the surface.

When the garage is planned to be placed on soil that is abundantly saturated with moisture, it is necessary to create a circular drainage system - this will allow moisture to be removed from the area adjacent to the garage. But under any circumstances, it is necessary to perform external waterproofing of the cellar foundation.

If the construction will take place on sufficiently dry ground, waterproofing can be done by applying two layers of hot bitumen. If the soil at the construction site is wet, it will be necessary to glue the concrete blocks with a rolled roofing material, which has a bitumen base.

Expanded polystyrene is considered an excellent waterproof and at the same time insulating material. This material is highly resistant to rot and mildew. Installation of this type of insulation is done by gluing concrete blocks from their outer side. It should be noted that the size of the plates is carefully adjusted to each other, and the joints are also subject to finishing.

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Basement ceiling in an already erected garage

Scheme of an earthen cellar on a slope: 1- knurler; 2- clay; 3- soil, 30 cm; 4- close.

How to make a basement ceiling if the garage has already been built? Of course, in a built garage it is impossible to use standard reinforced concrete slabs to cover the cellar, since special equipment is required for their installation. But there is still an answer to this question.

In this case, the ceiling is constructed using the installation of load-bearing beams. Experts recommend using beams with an I-section for this purpose. Often, motorists use railway rails for this, pieces of which can be purchased at any scrap metal collection point. It should be noted that mine rails will be rather weak for a carrier beam. They are excellent as transverse elements that are laid perpendicular to the supporting beams.

You need to know that for the ends of the load-bearing beams on the walls of the basement, you need to provide a bed. Thus, the basement walls will play the role of the foundation for the entire garage structure. After the load-bearing beams are mounted, reinforcement is placed in the space formed between them. Then the lower formwork is mounted and concrete is poured. You will get a self-made reinforced concrete slab.

When the planned cellar is small compared to the area of the garage, then there is another option for constructing a basement floor. In this case, the cellar will be located in a place where there is no load from the weight of the equipment, and its overlap can be made lighter.

In all variants of the construction of the ceiling above the basement, the structure needs to be insulated.

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Basement ceiling insulation

In order to prevent condensation on the ceiling surface of the cellar, and dampness does not form in your basement or fungus does not spread, you need to insulate the ceiling.

So, for example, the insulation of the basement ceiling in the garage will ensure the absence of condensate, which negatively affects all the metal elements of the car.

Reinforced concrete floors can be insulated using various heat-insulating materials, such as foam concrete, sand, semi-rigid mineral wool slabs, foam plastic, straw mats.

Here is one of the easiest ways. First of all, the concrete floor is primed with a solution of bitumen and diesel fuel (proportion 1: 3). After that, you need to mix the sawdust with a cement-sand mortar (1: 8 ratio) and lay it in a thick layer (about 30 cm) with further tamping. After 48 hours, a cement-sand screed is performed.

When erecting a free-standing cellar structure, its ceiling can be insulated by applying clay to it, and then covered with dry sand or slag.

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Before making any cellar, the level of groundwater is taken into account. If it is above the floor of the storage, then it is necessary to make an effective waterproofing of the room so that during seasonal water movements there is no flooding of the room. As a rule, the simplest materials are used for this - roofing material and brick.

All work can be done by hand. It is very important to build a timber formwork before pouring concrete.

Before pouring the ceiling, special supports should be mounted, which should hold the structure of the wooden formwork at the time of filling it with concrete and when it dries. In this case, the formwork must first be sealed so that the solution does not leak during the pouring process.
The next step after creating the formwork is knitting the frame of the concrete slab. The frame, as already noted, is made of reinforcement. The distance between the individual rods should be approximately 20–25 cm. If your cellar is small in size, then one reinforcing cage is enough, but when the storage dimensions are significant, it is better to reinforce the slab in pairs for greater reliability. The reinforcing network should protrude beyond the walls of the cellar by several centimeters from different sides.

After pouring the concrete slab, you need to wait some time (about 3-4 weeks) for it to completely harden and take on its final form. According to experts, such an overlap is the most durable and effective. In addition, if desired, they can even be used as the foundation of a small outbuilding above an earthen cellar.

In the case of using concrete slabs, the dimensions of the cellar will have to be correlated with their standard dimensions.

Certain difficulties are associated with the standardization of the dimensions of the slabs, so you will either have to adjust the dimensions of the cellar to the dimensions of the slab, or find out the dimensions of the structure in advance, and based on the information received, make the storage of the desired length and width.

Even ordinary rails are suitable as load-bearing beams.

For laying beams in the walls, special holes are provided.

The order of work is as follows:

The load-bearing beams are laid in pre-prepared holes in the wall. By and large, this work can be done independently, but with several assistants, because even the rails have significant weight.
In the space that will be formed after laying the load-bearing beams, it is necessary to mount reinforcing bars, and then fix them with a special wire. Next, the reliability of the connection and the stability of the beams are checked. If all is well, then a wooden formwork is made and a waterproofing layer is applied to it.
After the installation of the formwork, it is necessary to install supports that will be designed to take on the load of the cement mortar.
Cement mortar can be mixed with your own hands or ordered ready-made at any construction company. The solution should be poured over the metal frame as evenly as possible and without long breaks. All compartments of the frame must be filled with concrete, something must not be missed. Upon completion of the pouring, the solution is distributed over the entire thickness of the structure.
The overlap, which is obtained after using this method, needs high-quality thermal insulation. In principle, any heat-insulating material is suitable for this.

After installing the ceiling, you should also think about organizing a high-quality ventilation system, on the operation of which, in fact, the safety of products in the storage will depend.

When installing pipes, it is necessary to take into account the fact that precipitation or debris can obstruct the flow of air, so a small cap must be made above the pipe, and a metal mesh must be installed inside, which will also protect insects and rodents from entering the cellar.

Without proper insulation of the basement ceiling, storage or cellar, any work related to waterproofing and thermal insulation of walls and floors will simply be useless.

To insulate the ceiling of the cellar, it is recommended to use cement mortar and simple sawdust (or any other analogue). In this case, the heat-insulating layer created by concrete will be approximately 20 cm thick. It is applied evenly over the entire surface of the floor. Such a coating will be convenient to use if you want to finish the ceiling in the cellar in the future. For example, it can be painted or plastered.

Polyurethane foam evenly fills all seams and cracks.

Chief editor of the site, civil engineer. He graduated from SibSTRIN in 1994, since then he has worked for more than 14 years in construction companies, after which he started his own business. Owner of a construction company.

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Grave with your own hands. Cellar ceiling

After the walls of the cellar are laid out, you can proceed to its overlap. To be honest, I wanted to use a reinforced concrete slab as a cellar ceiling. As the saying goes, do it for a long time. However, I did not find the slab, so I decided to use boards and steel boards from the Kalkhida truck for the construction of the ceiling.

As lintels for the ceiling of the cellar, I used a bar with a section of 150 x 150 mm. The beam would have been burned with a blowtorch (the life of the tree, judging by the construction literature, is increased by 20%), and then soaked with used oil from the Moskvich car.

Apparently, working out is still that disgusting, because. the beetle that tasted it remained on the log.

Beetle poisoned by used car oil

At first I thought that the beetle was just stuck, but no, it really got poisoned. According to the stories of experienced builders, I know that transformer oil protects wood very well from rotting and insects. It is easily absorbed into the wood, as it is quite liquid.

After the beam was soaked with oil and lay in the sun for several days, my friend and I wrapped it in roofing material. Here, in fact, everything is simple: we wrap the beam in roofing material and fasten the roofing material with the help of a construction stapler.

We wrap the beam in roofing felt and fasten it with a stapler

At the ends, we carefully bend the roofing material in the likeness of an envelope and fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

The beams were laid in such a way that the width of the passage into the cellar after facing was at least 70 cm. After laying the floor beams on the walls of the cellar, the ceiling of the cellar was knocked out from below with a septate board 25 mm thick. Roofing material was laid on the boards, a layer of adgelin 5 mm thick, and expanded clay was covered on top (it is advisable to take expanded clay not very large so that it lies more densely).

Sawdust should not be used to insulate the cellar, because dampness will probably cause a fungus to appear in it, and different living creatures can also start. As for expanded clay, it quickly takes away excess moisture and dries quickly.

At the corners of the cellar, pipes for ventilation were removed. 110 mm exhaust pipe and 50 mm supply pipe (circled in the figures with red frames). After that, steel boards from Kalkhida were laid.

For ventilation of the cellar, two PVC pipes are installed in different corners.

I decided to immediately fill the floors, while there are no walls. Before pouring the floors, he laid out a socle of silicate brick, placing a layer of roofing material under it.

Filling the ceiling with concrete

Surely the described option is not optimal, but I hope it will give food for thought.

Finally, close the cellar lid as tightly as possible in winter, otherwise it may turn out that warm air will escape through it, and not through the pipe intended for “exhaust”. This will wet the lid and cause mold to grow on it.