Having ordered installation work at Thermodynamics company you will definitely receive an additional discount on equipment and materials.

It is advisable to think through the heating system during the construction of the house. It is necessary to provide niches for risers in advance, if necessary - separate room for the boiler room. But even if the house has already been built, you can find a way out of any situation, especially since modern technologies they allow it. To start installation heating system the house must have a roof and windows. Pipes can be laid hidden wiring, for example, install them in the floor, in screeds specially designed for this purpose. If it is not possible to do this, then you will have to lay it in the walls. It is more advisable to install the heating when the walls are already plastered, but the screed has not yet been poured, so that after installing the radiators you do not have to pick at the plaster and adjust the terminals. You can carry out installation in this way - first make pipe leads with a reserve, and after plastering the walls, hang and connect the radiators. But this method takes longer. For maximum accuracy, it is better to follow the following technology. First of all, you need to hang all the radiators, but you do not need to remove the film from them until the heating system is started. If the exits to the radiators will pass from the wall, then it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the grooves, remove the radiator and groove places for the pipes. When everything is ready, you need to hang the radiators back, route the heating pipes and connect them to the radiators. It is better to cover the places where the eyeliner comes out of the wall with alabaster. When the solution has hardened, the radiators can be removed and placed away from the place where they will pass finishing work, otherwise even film will not save them from damage and dust. If the finishing work in the house is completed, there is still the option of installing hidden wiring. Heating pipes can be laid along the walls, below, in boxes specially designed for them. In professional language This installation of pipes is called “plinth wiring”. You can pay money and contact Western pipe manufacturers - you can buy from them ready-made system“plinth wiring”, with all materials and well-thought-out components. But, if you don’t want to pay extra money, you can do this wiring yourself. By the way, you can use plastic ones as boxes. These are often used to hide electrical wires. If the heating system of your home uses triple wiring, it is better to lay the pipes along the walls, but at the same time step back 10-15 cm so as not to spoil them when you nail the baseboards. In the last century, heating systems had slopes towards the taps for drainage. Currently designs modern systems they do not allow this to be ensured, and there is no point in doing so. But main point, which must be taken into account when laying - there should be no large “humps” in the pipes, that is, you need to make sure that over time they do not appear in the heating system air jams. If this problem cannot be avoided, there is a way out - you need to install an automatic air vent at the top point. To go around a doorway with pipes, it is advisable to run them along the floor rather than lay them around the entire opening along the top, thereby creating a large loop. It is not advisable to install a heating system in cold rooms. As a rule, manufacturers of polymer pipes warn that you should not install them at temperatures below 7 degrees. Fragility metal-plastic pipes increases during operation at low temperatures, welding of polypropylene pipes deteriorates, and soldering copper pipes not worth it at all - low temperature it feels quite strong. Therefore, it is worth thinking in advance and calculating the installation so that the system is launched before the cold weather begins.

Hello. There is one in the frame building storey building area = 70 m2, there is a combustion area = 5 m2 (1.7x3 m). Is it possible to install a solid fuel boiler there for radiator heating and hot water supply (kitchen + shower). Schematic diagram heating: two-pipe, forced, closed type. Thank you. Arsenty.

How to get around outer door, 2-pipe heating system of the House. Thank you. Arsenty.

Hello, Arsenty!

Very indicative required thermal power boiler for your home - 10-12 kW. The boiler room area of ​​5 m2 is sufficient to accommodate it, provided that the ceiling height is at least 2.5 m. However, the room is a little narrow. Most likely, 1.7 m is enough to service the boiler and maintain fire safety distances if the walls and ceiling are lined with fireproof material or protected with thermal insulation panels. There is even room for a small supply of firewood. It is also necessary to maintain a distance of at least 2 m from the place where firewood is stored (door opening) to the opposite wall. We can say more precisely if we know the brand of the boiler and the location of the furnace in the house. Heating scheme and building design in in this case doesn't matter.

Go around - in the same way you go around obstacles. Side. For a door that stands vertically, the sides are top and bottom. Accordingly, the heating supply line in a system with natural circulation can be located above the door, under the ceiling, and the return line can be located below the door level, in the floor screed. If the coolant moves using a pump, both pipes are more convenient and easier to place in the floor. You can also think about the project and find a solution in which the heating pipes will not intersect with the door at all.

Two-pipe system with forced circulation, supply and return lines are hidden between the wooden floor joists, without interfering with opening front door

Arseny, we are concerned that the question you asked us belongs to the category of “kindergarten questions”. This is not even about complex heating engineering, but about simple hydraulics. Principles of fluid movement - physics textbook for 7th grade secondary school. If his solution caused you difficulty, how are you going to arrange your own heating in the future? After all, there will be more and more questions, and they will become more and more complex. Calculations that are quite complex for a “dummie” will be required, specialized knowledge. Apparently, you are trying to study heating engineering from articles on the Internet and so far your understanding of the subject has not progressed far. It should be understood that this is a rather complex science; heating engineers are trained for five years and, alas, not always successfully. Perhaps, after spending a lot of time and nerves, you will even be able to assemble a more or less efficient heating system. However, will it be rational? Or will we even have to invite “crisis plumbers” to correct mistakes?

Perhaps you should focus on your main job, where you are successful? We strongly recommend that you consider involving a heating device own home professionals. First of all, the designer. A specialist will optimally calculate the parameters of the system, which will make it economical and efficient. The little money that you spend on the project will pay off due to the rational, without overspending, choice of materials and moderate operating costs. Thermal comfort is also worth something. If you decide to install the heating yourself, it will be much easier to do it with a project than without it. You will need to strictly follow the drawings, free time, accuracy and an expensive tool that you don’t have to buy, but rent.

• 1 Design and features of a one-pipe system
• 1.1 Benefits
• 1.2 Disadvantages
• 2 Planning
• 3 Installation
• 4 Videos

Having built a house, many people begin to think about how to heat it. It’s worth noting right away that this approach is fundamentally wrong, since this should have been taken care of at the planning stage. This is due to the fact that if you want to install a single-pipe heating system polypropylene pipes, then it will no longer be so easy, and you may have to destroy what has already been done. This concerns not only making holes in the walls, but also gating the floor, since it is quite understandable to want to make the home not only warm, but also beautiful, by laying the pipes in such a way that they do not spoil the design of the heated room.

Design and features of a one-pipe system

Single pipe system

The peculiarity of a single-pipe heating system is that a pipe runs from the boiler, the second end of which again comes to the boiler. Heating radiators are connected to it without breaking the line.

Such heating systems can be:

• horizontal (flow);
• with top wiring (vertical).

Both systems can be either closed or open.

Radiator thermostat The classic (most often used) is horizontal pipe routing. To upgrade any battery you can purchase:

As mentioned at the beginning of the article, one of the advantages of a single-pipe system is the ability to hide communications in the floor. This important factor, because now few people hide heating radiators behind curtains, and this is not practical, since air circulation near the radiators is disrupted, as a result of which it is necessary to raise the temperature on the boiler, and this leads to unnecessary fuel consumption.

If the assembled system does not have a counter-slope or differences in height, then it can operate without a pump.

Read also Combined systems heating: building systems based on various types fuel

Advantages

Flaws

Mayevsky crane installed

Having talked about the advantages, we need to mention the disadvantages.

Planning

Not everyone can use computer programs to model a 3D projection of your home, which would undoubtedly be very convenient. Taking this nuance into account, let's look at how to make a plan manually by writing everything out on a piece of paper.

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account the peculiarity of installing a system made of polypropylene pipes - it is impossible to make smooth turns in it.

• When making a drawing, you need to take into account that the pipeline must be laid with a slight slope - at least 0.5 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe, otherwise it will not work without a pump.
• We decide on the installation location of the boiler.
• If for some reason the pipes cannot be hidden in the floor, then you will have to outdoor installation or partially hide the pipes in the floor - in the place of greatest depression.
• On the diagram we mark the installation locations of the batteries, noting what power they should be.

It is important to choose the height of the battery and the number of sections

When determining how many sections will be needed for a room, you need to take into account that each subsequent battery heats less efficiently, so you need to increase the number of sections of stacked batteries (or the area if the radiators are steel).

• If taps, a heat regulator, etc. are installed, this should also be reflected in the diagram.
• Having a complete picture, you can calculate how many pipes, fittings and those elements that are planned for completion will be required.

Read also Tiling stair steps

Soldering of polypropylene pipes

To install the heating system discussed in this article, you will not need many tools. This:

• soldering iron for installing plastic pipes;
• scissors for cutting plastic pipes;
• shaver (if pipes with external reinforcement are purchased).

All-polymer products are only suitable for water supply. Need to purchase reinforced pipes, the characteristics of which allow them to be used for heating. It is best if basalt fiber or aluminum foil is used as a reinforcing layer - in this case, the elongation coefficient of the pipe is reduced threefold, in contrast to products with fiberglass.

Trying on the battery

The first step is to mark the walls for each battery. They need to be installed under each window - this will prevent cold air from flowing onto the floor. For the battery to fully fulfill its role, its length must be at least 70% of the width of the window opening. It is also important to maintain distance:

• From the window sill - 10-12 cm.
• From the wall - 3-5 cm.
• From the floor - 8-12 cm.

When purchasing batteries, you must take these requirements into account.

You can read about how to find out how many battery sections you need to install for one room in the article about bimetallic radiators.

Using horizontal markings, you need to mark the places where the fasteners will be installed with such a distance that the installed fasteners are located between the sections of the installed battery.

• Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled in the wall into which we install fasteners.
• Now you need to prepare the batteries. If they are covered with film from the factory, then there is no need to remove it yet.
• Sticking to the plan, we install air vents, thermostats and ball valves.
• We hang the batteries in their places and building level We check the horizontal position of their position.
• Next, the pipes are soldered. It is important not to forget that it is necessary to respect the slope of the main highway.
• It is better to install a bypass with a pump on the return line in front of the boiler.
• It is imperative to install an expansion tank and a block with safety group elements.
• It is not necessary to fill a single-pipe heating system with water from the bottom point, since in any case each radiator will contain air that needs to be vented. If an automatic air vent system is installed, then they will cope with this task themselves.

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How to avoid or correct the most common heating system errors

Boiler room

Not enough air to support combustion

The boiler is equipped atmospheric burners, combustion-supporting air is taken directly from the boiler room.

The boiler will start to work poorly, with interruptions, fluctuations, go out, sometimes popping noises are heard (not always, sometimes the boiler “pops” if air gets into the gas pipeline for some reason), etc. if the air flow is insufficient.

This situation is not so rare - often calling the masters with the question “ Why does the boiler go out?“We forget about oxygen for combustion.

It is easy to correct the situation with your own hands - install ventilators or ventilation in the wall of the boiler room and in its door.

How to fix: Installation of ventilation in the boiler room, holes in the boiler room door.

The boiler was installed in a damp room.

If the boiler (either liquid fuel or gas) is installed in a room with high humidity it will wear out and break many times faster - this is an axiom. It is clear that this situation can only be corrected by installing a boiler room in a dry and ventilated place. Also take note of the fact that in a room where a solid fuel boiler and a gas or liquid fuel boiler are installed together, the latter will also break down faster due to dirt and work worse.

How to fix: Plan in advance to install a boiler room in a suitable room. Do not install a solid fuel boiler or a gas or liquid fuel boiler.

If the chimney is made too low

The chimney must be made so that it has the so-called “effective height” (i.e., this is the distance from the outlet to the firebox) which allows the combustion products to be discharged unhindered.

For oil boiler effective height 5 meters, for gas at least 4 meters.

If the chimney is shorter in length and height, then there will not be enough draft. If the boilers of the old designs work at least poorly, but “refreshing” the air in the boiler room with fuel combustion products, then the boilers of the new design with draft sensors in the chimney will simply turn off.

In lower chimneys, the chimney draft will be insufficient. Modern boilers equipped with chimney draft sensors will turn off in this case, but in older boilers combustion products can penetrate from the firebox into the room.

How to fix: Make a chimney of the required height in advance; as a rule, it is provided for in the design of the house being built.

Installation of a shut-off valve in a heating system

Based on safety precautions, there should be no shut-off or shut-off valves in the heating system. Many people make them in order, for example, to turn on the heating in a “small circle” and not to warm up the whole house. This is dangerous because if you accidentally close the shut-off valve, it will not be able to get into expansion tank, and if so, it will have nowhere to expand, and as the temperature rises, the heating system can simply break, and no modern automation installed in the boiler cannot guarantee you the opposite.

How to fix: Don’t install taps at all...

If the boiler you bought is too powerful

“You can’t spoil porridge with oil” is not about heating...

Often we buy boilers with the expectation of a hypothetical “growth” of the house - extensions, attics, etc. Then we settle into the house and the desire to build an extension disappears.

You shouldn’t buy a boiler that exceeds the capacity included in the design of a new house - you’ll decide whether to add on to the house or not, but it’s not clear why you’ll spend money on a more powerful, and therefore more expensive, boiler now.

After all, the required thermal energy and the need for it is calculated based on the most unfavorable conditions, for a temperature of -6 to -25 degrees, and such days during heating season a little, and during them the boiler operates at full capacity. That is, roughly speaking, in the boiler calculated in the project there is already a certain reserve of power “for future use”.

How to fix it: Do not buy a more powerful boiler than is necessary in a given house, or buy and be absolutely sure that you will definitely build it after all - otherwise money will be wasted and heating bills will increase.

Heating system

Using heating system pipes that are not designed for this purpose (e.g. plastic pipes for installation of water supply).

If for system installation central heating You are using pipes that, to put it mildly, are not intended for this, then there are only 2 scenarios - either the service life of the heating system will be much shorter, or constant accidents.

For installation of the heating system use

• Welded steel pipes(usually for the most traditional, conventional systems with branches and installation of risers).
• Copper pipes

• Plastic anti-diffusion pipes

Any pipes that will be used for heating devices must have a certificate confirming this.

How to fix: Use pipes intended for heating, and nothing else.

The diameter of the heating system pipes does not match that described in the project.

If the pipes are smaller in diameter, the hydraulic resistance increases.

If the diameter is larger, then this will increase the inertia of the heating system, higher energy consumption (after all, the coolant needs to be heated), an imbalance occurs in the system, and they are more expensive.

Pipe cross-sections must always correspond to those specified in the project: pipes of a smaller cross-section increase the hydraulic resistance to flow, and larger ones:

How to fix: Make a heating system in advance from pipes with the specified diameter project documentation to your home - this is important.

Heating system made of pipes made of different materials

Each material has its own coefficient of thermal expansion. Not all pipes are compatible with each other not only in physical, but also in chemical indicators and properties.

For example: aluminum and copper are not compatible with each other, since a reaction occurs at their junction, which in turn causes accelerated corrosion of aluminum.

How to fix: use when installing heating at the junction various materials dielectric gaskets and add corrosion inhibitors to water as the main coolant, which will slow it down, but not completely eliminate it.

Advice: Also, when installing a heating system, use all components from the same manufacturer (both pipes and fittings) so as not to lose the warranty, which is only possible when using parts of the same production.

The heating wiring is done incorrectly.

High-quality materials for the installation and installation of a central heating system go without saying, because this is not wallpaper that you no longer like and you can paste others directly on the old ones. As a rule, the heating system usually breaks down during periods of intensive use - and therefore in winter. I don’t think it’s worth describing the consequences of this. Therefore, heating must be done seriously and for a long time, and therefore correctly and in accordance with the project.

Based on this:

1. Lay heating pipes in the chimney or ventilation duct or a mine.
2. Try to avoid laying pipes through expansion gaps, and if this cannot be avoided, lay them in protective sleeves.
3. If some of the heating pipes pass under the floor, then lay plastic ones inside special protective pipes, and therefore take into account their increased coefficient of thermal expansion.
4. The section of the system mounted under the floor (if it is plastic) must be made in one piece - from the radiator to the collector.
5. Plastic pipes are very sensitive to mechanical deformation and damage, and their fragments between the floor and the connection to the battery or radiator must also be protected with sleeves.

At the heating section passing through unheated room no thermal insulation

This can lead to increased home heating costs. After all, water passing through an unheated fragment of the system cools down (and quite decently depending on its length).

How to fix: Actually making thermal insulation, there are now a lot of materials for thermal insulation of pipes, they are inexpensive.

Installation, installation of air valves (Mayevsky taps) in the system

The heating system in the house must be equipped with air valves. For the best, effective removal air from the heating system, it is better to mount them on risers (at the highest points) or on heating radiators (they are often equipped with them at the factory)

There should always be access to them; traffic jams in the system are not such a rare thing. Therefore, do not overwhelm them with furniture, boxes, books, etc.

It is best to use automatic air valves. They have a special float which, depending on the presence of water or air, lowers, releasing air and eliminating the plug, or floats up, blocking the hole when water begins to flow.

There are also automatic air valves with a float that lowers when air is present (releases air) and floats up (blocking the hole) when water is present.

Convenient filling of the system with water.

If the system is made of pipes of small diameter, if it is large and complex (for example, in a two-story or multi-level house), then the longer it takes to fill it with water, while simultaneously removing air from it that forms plugs.

To prevent this from turning into a painful task, install a tap and a pipe at the lowest point of the heating system with the ability to attach a hose coming from the water supply. If you do this, it’s a couple of trifles to expel the air from the system, and you can fill the heating with water within 5-7 minutes (that’s how long my system is filled in a 2-story building. The signal for filling the system with water - water begins to pour out of the pipe facing the street (through wall) from the expansion tank on the second floor).

Should I drain the water from the system for the summer or not?

I’ll give you a short answer: don’t leak it. If there is a need to repair, maintain or upgrade the heating system, drain it, do the necessary work, and if everything is in order, fill it back.

I talk a lot about this topic with other craftsmen - they all say that the heating breaks down more often if the water is drained in the summer.

Installation room thermostat which controls the operation of the boiler in the wrong place

Such places may be a place that is too sunlit, a draft, or a “dead” room. In this case, it will not react correctly and will either be too hot or too cold.

Lack of required headroom when installing heated floors.

Incorrect installation of heated floors most often occurs when the decision to install them is made after the construction of the house, or, for example, after renovation.

All this happens because a layer of thermal insulation, for example on interfloor covering the thermal insulation layer is much smaller than a similar layer laid on the ground, and the required height margin required for an underfloor heating system directly depends on this distance.

Photo 1: To implement a heated floor system, it is necessary to provide an appropriate thickness margin to accommodate all the layers provided for in the project

How to fix it: Decide in advance whether you will install heated floors or not, and calculate the required estimated height.

They did not check the underfloor heating system for leaks before closing it with finishing floor covering(screed, laminate, tile).

After installing the heated floor, be sure to check whether its installation is done correctly and airtight. It can easily happen that you, doing the installation of a heated floor system with your own hands, are not to blame - but the manufacturer is to blame for releasing the defect and the system is “leaking” - it is better to check everything immediately after assembly rather than breaking the tiles or screed later.

They made a screed on a system of plastic pipes, but did not fill it with water.

Similar to the previous error, but not the same. The bottom line is that when installing a screed, tension occurs in the material in the pipes and often leads to damage to both individual components and the entire system. The situation is, of course, quite rare, but you shouldn’t write it off - since filling the system with water in advance is not much of a hassle. In addition, this way you will protect the screed from cracks.

Dilatation gaps are not made or made incorrectly.

Expansion gaps serve to prevent cracking, deformation and the possible appearance of cracks in the heated surface.

Thus, the installation of dilatation gaps is necessary:

1. If the room or other space is narrow and long (more than eight meters long, with one side of the room longer than the other by more than 100%)
2. Under the doors
3. In rooms with a large area
4. If the room complex shape(“G” or “T” shaped).

Attention: The dilatation gap must be done through ALL (!) layers, up to the finishing. It is usually filled with special tapes.

We turned on the heated floors for heating when the screed had not yet dried out.

Since the vast majority of installations of “warm” floor systems take place under a screed, this mistake is often common. The owners turn on the heated floor immediately after pouring the concrete in the hope that the screed will “dry faster.” The result is cracking of the screed, which means you will have to break it and make a new one.

What to do: Don’t rush, but let the screed dry naturally.

Errors in connecting radiators and fittings

When installing heating, the “supply” and “return” in the radiators were confused.

The overwhelming majority of radiators with bottom connections have a device in which the supply pipe of the heating system must be connected to the pipe that is closer to the center (i.e., internal), and the return pipe, on the contrary, to the outermost one.

If the panel radiator is connected incorrectly and vice versa (supply to the outer one, and return to the inner one), then heat transfer can decrease by 50%, sometimes even more.

Connecting a panel radiator with top connection to the system inside the floor.

This cannot be said to be a mistake - sometimes craftsmen resort to this connection method out of necessity, but in any case this is fraught with a decrease in power and the formation of an air plug in the panel radiator.

Installation decorative screens on radiators

Also, in principle, by and large, this cannot be called a mistake, especially in houses with old batteries, which are easier to “paint over completely than to tear off”...

It's all about the circulation of hot air and heat transfer - it can decrease by up to 20% when installing a blank screen, especially if the gap between the battery and the floor below and the window sill and radiator above is small.

Exit: Do not install at all protective screens completely or install screens in the form of a lattice.

Installing a screen next to the thermostatic valve.

If you install the screen next to the thermostatic valve, it will respond incorrectly to the readings, since it will be in hotter air than the rest of the living space and will stubbornly turn off the heating in the radiator when the room is still cold.

How to fix: Output 2 – do not install screens nearby or install a thermostatic valve with remote sensor, installed in the desired part of the room, away from the radiator.

Installing the thermostatic head vertically

Warm air from the radiator or battery will rise vertically, upward, “enveloping” the head sensor, as a result of which the sensor head will not be in contact with the bulk of the air in the room, but with the heated air from the battery - the readings will be incorrect, and the thermostatic sensor will work incorrectly.

How does a thermostatic valve work?

Thermostatic valve (thermostat) consists of a valve and a thermostatic head. The principle of its operation is simple. Under the influence of temperature, the substance located in the bellows of the head increases its volume. This causes pressure on the stem and the valve closes. Duct hot water through the radiator it stops. Conversely, if the room temperature decreases, the bellows contracts and the valve opens the flow of hot water through the radiator. Using the rotary dial you can set the desired room temperature. It can usually be set in the range of 6-28°C. The minimum temperature – 6-8°C – is the so-called standby temperature. If the room temperature drops below this value, the valve opens automatically; This prevents the water in the system from freezing, as well as excessive cooling of the room.

Photo 2: Operating principle and drawing diagram of a thermostatic valve

In the drawing in numbers:

Tips for a DIY heating installer

1. A tap must not be installed on the pipe connecting the expansion tank to the boiler. Accidentally blocking it can lead to destruction of the system.
2. The chimney of a boiler installed in the attic may be too short. For installation in such a place, a boiler with a closed combustion chamber is more suitable; the air supply to it and the removal of combustion products will be carried out through a coaxial channel of the “pipe-in-pipe” type, led through the wall or roof.
3. One of the conditions proper operation boiler is the supply of sufficient air for combustion. To do this, in the outer foam you can perform inlet. From the boiler room side, this hole should be approximately 30 cm above the floor.
4. A gas boiler, especially a modern one, will only work well in a clean, dry and well-ventilated area.
5. It is desirable that the entire system be made of the same material. But some boiler manufacturers recommend plastic systems install the area next to the boiler from copper or steel pipes.
6. Steel pipes, compared to plastic ones, have a significantly lower coefficient of thermal linear expansion.
7. Taking into account their high coefficient of thermal linear expansion, it is necessary to lay plastic pipes in the floor only in protective pipes.
8. When installing a central heating system, only pipes designed for this purpose should be used. The pipes must be marked accordingly.
9. To ensure that the system laid in the floor does not leak during operation, the connection from the collector to the radiator must be made in one piece and a pressure test must be carried out after installation.
10. The section of pipes between the floor and the radiator must be laid in the wall or covered with protective sleeves.
11. Manual air valves are standard equipment on new radiators. In addition, automatic air valves are used to remove air from the system.
12. Special brackets are used to secure the pipes to the floor. Where pipes pass through the expansion gap, they are laid in special sleeves (top photo), which protect them from possible damage.
13. If you really want to close the radiator, it is better to use an openwork screen for this. It is also necessary to leave the thermostatic valve head uncovered.
14. A vertically mounted head will reduce the flow of hot water into the radiator more than it would if it were installed correctly. As a result, less heat will enter the room than needed.
15. Head with remote (remote) temperature sensor. The length of the capillary connecting the sensor to the head is 2 m.
16. TO panel radiators with a bottom connection, the supply pipe must be connected to the inner (closer to the center) pipe, and the return pipe to the outer one. Reverse connection will reduce the radiator power by almost half.