A two-story frame house is a capital structure, the basis of which is a solid wooden frame. Residential buildings built using this technology are suitable for permanent living even in harsh climatic conditions. They have many advantages that dispel the doubts of skeptics.

Advantages of two-story frame houses

Choosing two floors instead of one allows you to save space on the site and reduce the cost of building a foundation, purchasing roofing materials and installing a roof. The construction of two-story frame houses is much cheaper, faster and easier than the construction of buildings from blocks, bricks, logs, concrete.

Among the advantages of frame construction, it is worth highlighting:

• High thermal efficiency, which is ensured by a special thermos technology used in construction.
• Economy in use. Heating costs for frame houses are an order of magnitude less than those for providing heat for stone or wood buildings built using traditional technologies.
• Long service life. Frame-type houses do not require major repairs, as well as regular reconstruction of walls or foundations.
• No shrinkage.
• The resistance of materials to various external negative factors.
• Incombustibility of building materials.

It should be noted that the list of benefits is far from complete. Frame buildings are distinguished by good sound insulation parameters and the absence of distortion of wall structures over many years of operation. Interior arrangement and decoration can be made from almost any modern materials.

How to build a two-story frame house

Choosing technology, according to which it is better to build a two-story frame house, you need to study each of them. The construction of insulated projects is a good alternative to the classic solution to the problem of buying or building a house. For construction today, the newest and most modern technologies, safe and affordable materials are used.

Specialists have developed a huge number of projects. And two-story frame houses are especially popular today, in which several generations of one family can live. Due to the large area, they can assume the possibility of zoning the space. The technology itself is of particular interest to consumers, so it is best to study all the subtleties of this process before starting construction.

Features of the construction of a frame house

The skeleton of a two-story frame house, which carries the main load, is the frame. Can be distinguished two types of frames:

• platform (including floor construction of a house);
• through (racks of the first and second floor are through).

The platform type frame is used more often. This can be explained by the fact that such a frame is very simple and quick to assemble. The design differs in smaller sizes and dimensions of all elements.

The platform view of the two-story frame is erected in the following order:

1. Assembly of floor slabs, which are the basis for the walls of the first floor.
2. Installation of first floor racks.
3. Installation of the top floor of the first floor. This overlap is the floor of the second floor.
4. Installation of racks on the second floor.
5. Assembling the ceiling slabs of the second floor, which serve as an attic floor.

The double frame technology is more complex and time consuming. Through racks are temporarily fixed to other structural elements. This method helps to avoid deformation. Racks without interruption pass through the intermediate floors and reach the base of the roof.

As a rule, frame houses of this type are more in demand among people who prefer a classic style. In such buildings, the structures and elements of the building can also serve as elements of the interior at the same time.

For the manufacture of the frame is used beam different section. Each element of the frame structure is rigidly and firmly mounted using steel bolts, connecting corners, plates and other elements for fastening. Most often, from the outside, the frame is sheathed with plates, for example, DSP. Such boards can be manufactured using a variety of technologies, they have water-resistant and fire-resistant properties.

Technologies for the construction of two-story frame houses

Regardless of the type of frame, the following technologies can be used in the construction process:

• Canadian - using platform panels or SIP panels;
• German, including the assembly of panel panels;
• frame-frame.

All of these technologies differ in different approaches to the completeness and use of panel panels. You can assemble the panels directly at the factory or with your own hands at the construction site of a two-story frame house.

Platform technology involves the use of a pre-prepared platform and logs equipped with grooves for attaching double shields at the construction site. The shields are fastened with the help of the upper strapping. The space between the shield panels is filled with insulation.

- This is a double slab or OSB, in which there is a layer of foam. They are produced at the factory and then delivered to the construction site.

German technology involves the manufacture of panel panels, the assembly of which is completely carried out in the factory. Such panels are equipped with the necessary elements, ranging from insulation materials to utilities. Almost all structural elements are assembled at the factory. Then all the parts are delivered to the object using special equipment.

Frame-frame technology largely different from the previous two. The use of this technology provides for the implementation of all assembly work directly at the construction site. The frame of the house consists of glued laminated timber, the cross section of which is 150 mm. Further, it is sheathed with boards, taking into account the requirements of the technology, or moisture-proof boards.

After completing these works, the walls are sheathed with special materials. Most often, frame-frame technology is used when building a house with your own hands. This technology is considered simple and more flexible, its use does not require the use of special equipment. It makes it possible to subsequently make the necessary changes to the design and architectural characteristics of the building.

Stages of building a frame house on two floors

At the very beginning of work, on a previously prepared foundation, it is installed, which will act as the base of the entire frame. For the installation of the lower trim, bars of the required dimensions are used, less often boards or logs. When the floor beams enter the strapping loop, it is performed in two rows. If the floor beams are located on poles, the strapping circuit is made in one row.

Corner connections are made using direct lock. After installing the lower trim and fixing it to the foundation with metal spikes, proceed with the installation of the supporting racks. Racks are divided into corner and ordinary, made of timber with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

Plank struts are attached to the uprights for extra rigidity. As a rule, with the help of straight spikes, the upper harness is attached to the set racks. When using a floor frame, ceiling beams will be mounted into it. After that, the carrier racks of the second floor are installed by analogy with the first.

For wall insulation for a two-story frame house, basalt slabs are used, the thickness of which should not be less than 50 cm. In order to avoid cold bridges, the sheets are overlapped. For external cladding, high-quality lining, siding or special plates are used. To evaporate excess moisture from the insulation layers, it is necessary to leave a gap of up to 30 mm.

Two-story frame house with an attic

The space allotted for the attic is often used as the second floor of a frame house. But to implement such a solution, the structure of the roof slopes must be designed in a special way so that it is possible to increase the attic space if necessary. Such a floor is called an attic floor, and the solution itself makes it possible to significantly save building materials and increase living space.

Very often, the attic floor acts as an office or bedroom. The advantage of arranging the attic can be called a more budgetary cost, due to the exclusion of overlapping of the upper sections of the walls.

Particularly in demand are frame compact attic houses. The standard dimensions of such buildings are 6x4, 6x6, 6x8 or 8x8 m. The total area of ​​​​such a house will be from 50 to 130 square meters. m.

The most popular sizes of two-story frame-type houses

From the total area of ​​​​the house envy not only the cost of construction, but also the cost of maintenance. You need to choose according to the size of the site, family composition and personal needs.

The dimensions of the 6x4 house imply a minimum number of rooms in the project. As a rule, the total area of ​​​​the building is 40 square meters. m. The attic floor of such a house is reserved for a bedroom, and on the first floor there is a kitchen and a living room. The walls of the house are a frame made of timber 100x100 mm or 100x50 mm. Overlappings are beams with dimensions of 150x150 mm. The choice of foundation depends on the type of soil - from pile to slab.

From the outside, the house is sheathed with OSB boards. Izospan is suitable as a waterproofing, and basalt sheets 100 mm thick as a heater. Outside, the house can be finished with siding or decorative tiles. For a roof, a metal tile or ondulin is suitable.

Frame house on two floors 6x6

The area of ​​the frame two-story house 6x6 is 64 sq. m. Due to the larger area in such a house, it is easy to design several more rooms, except for the kitchen, bedroom and living room. For example, on the ground floor you can place a living room, a bathroom and even a sauna with a shower. And on the second floor there are several rooms, or two bedrooms and an office.

Frame house on two floors 8x8

The dimensions of the house give more opportunities for design and design. The area of ​​such a cottage is about 120 square meters. m. In addition to the kitchen and dining room, on the ground floor you can also place a children's room, living room, bathroom, shower, sauna or other rooms at the discretion of the owner.

Second floor frame house is suitable for placing several bedrooms, an office, a lounge. Depending on the configuration of the roof and the design option, the attic floor may have a ceiling of various levels. The roof can be gable, shed, curly or another type.

Taking into account the characteristics of the soil on the site, for construction, you can choose both a concrete and a foundation on piles. Traditionally, all common areas are located on the ground floor. But at the request of the owner of the house, the layout of the interior space can be changed in accordance with the needs and possibilities.

A comfortable two-story frame house can solve the problem of housing at minimal cost. Unlike an ordinary apartment, such housing is more economical, ergo-efficient and functional. A house made of natural materials will be reliable, environmentally friendly and durable.

Video: building a house of 160 sq. m

Have you ever come across the fact that in discussions on the forums the topic of the “right” or “wrong” frame house pops up? Often people are poked with their noses at the fact that the frame is wrong, but they really find it difficult to explain why it is wrong and how it should be. In this article I will try to explain what is usually hidden behind the concept of a “correct” frame, which is the basis of a frame house, just like a human skeleton. In the future, I hope, we will consider other aspects.

Surely you know that the foundation is the foundation of the house. This is true, but the frame house has another basis - no less important than the foundation. This is the frame itself.

Which frame house is “correct”?

I'll start with the main one. Why is it so difficult to talk about the right frame house? because the only correct correct frame house does not exist. What a surprise, isn't it? 🙂

You will ask why? Yes, very simple. A frame house is a large constructor with many solutions. And there are many decisions that can be called correct. There are even more decisions - “semi-correct”, but there are a legion of “wrong” ones.

Nevertheless, among the variety of solutions, one can single out those that are usually meant when speaking of “correctness”. This is a frame of the American and, more rarely, Scandinavian type.

Why are they considered examples of “correctness”? Everything is very simple. The vast majority of private homes for permanent residence in America, and a very significant percentage in Scandinavia, are built using frame technology. This technology has been used there for more than a dozen and perhaps even a hundred years. During this time, all possible cones were filled, all possible options were sorted out and a certain universal scheme was found that says: do this and with a probability of 99.9% you will be fine. Moreover, this scheme is the optimal solution for several characteristics at once:

1. Structural reliability of solutions.
2. Optimal labor costs during construction.
3. Optimal cost of materials.
4. Good thermal performance.

Why step on your own rake if you can use the experience of people who have already stepped on this rake? Why reinvent the wheel if it has already been invented?

Remember. Whenever we are talking about the “correct” frame or about the “correct” nodes of a frame house, then, as a rule, this means standard solutions and nodes used in America and Scandinavia. And the frame itself satisfies all the above criteria.

What frameworks can be called “semi-regular”? Basically, these are those that differ from the typical Scandinavian-American solutions, but, nevertheless, also satisfy at least two criteria - reliable design and good solutions in terms of heat engineering.

Well, I would classify all the rest as “wrong”. Moreover, their “incorrectness” is often conditional. It is not at all a fact that the “wrong” frame will necessarily fall apart. Such a scenario is actually extremely rare, although it does occur. Basically, the “wrongness” lies in some controversial and not the best decisions. As a result, it becomes difficult where it can be done easier. More material is used where less is possible. A colder or more inconvenient design for subsequent work is made than it could be.

The main drawback of the “wrong” frames is that they do not give absolutely any gains compared to the “correct” or “semi-correct” ones - neither in reliability, nor in cost, nor in labor costs ... nothing at all.

Or these advantages are far-fetched and generally questionable. In extreme cases (and there are some), improper framing can be dangerous and result in a home needing a major overhaul in just a few years.

Now let's look at the issue in more detail.

Key Features of the American Frame

The American frame is practically a standard. It is simple, strong, functional and reliable as an iron saw. It is easy to assemble, it has a large margin of safety.

Americans are tight-fisted guys, and if they manage to save a couple of thousand dollars on a construction site, they will definitely do it. At the same time, they will not be able to stoop to outright hack-work, since there is strict control in the construction industry, insurance companies will refuse to pay out in case of problems, and the customers of would-be builders will quickly sue and rip negligent contractors like sticky.

Therefore, the American frame can be called the standard in terms of the ratio: price, reliability, result.

American frame is simple and reliable

Let's take a closer look at the main points that distinguish the American wireframe scheme:

Typical nodes of a frame house

Beam in racks and harnesses is almost never used, unless it is due to some specific conditions. Therefore, the first thing that distinguishes the “correct” frame house is the use of dry lumber and the absence of timber in the walls. By this criterion alone, you can discard 80% of Russian companies and teams operating in the frame market.

Moments that distinguish the American frame:

1. Corners - There are several different ways to implement corners, but nowhere do you see a beam as a corner post.
2. Double or triple racks in the area of ​​window and door openings.
3. The amplifier above the openings is a board mounted on an edge. The so-called "header" (from the English header).
4. Double top strapping from the board, no timber.
5. The overlap of the lower and upper rows of strapping at key points - corners, different fragments of walls, junctions of internal partitions to external walls.

Ukosina I specifically did not note as a distinctive moment. Since in the American style, in the presence of sheathing with OSB3 boards (OSB) on the frame, there is no need for jibs. The plate can be considered as an infinite number of jibs.

Let's talk in more detail about the key features of the correct frame in the American version.

Correct corners of the frame house

In fact, on the Internet, even in the American segment, you can find about a dozen schemes. But most of them are outdated and rarely used, especially in cold regions. I will highlight three main angle patterns. Although realistically, only the first two are the main ones.

Knots of the corners of the frame house

1. Option 1 - the so-called "California" corner. The most common option. Why "California" - I have no idea :). From the inside, another board or strip of OSB is nailed to the extreme rack of one of the walls. As a result, a shelf is formed on the inside of the corner, which later serves as a support for the interior decoration or any inner layers of the wall.
2. Option 2 - closed corner. Also one of the most popular. The bottom line is an additional rack in order to make a shelf on the inner corner. Of the advantages: the quality of the insulation of the corner is better than in option 1. Among the disadvantages: such an angle can only be insulated from the outside, that is, this must be done before sheathing the frame with something from the outside (plates, membrane, etc.)
3. Option 3 - "Scandinavian" warm corner. A very rare variant, not used in America. I saw it in Scandinavian frames, but not often. Why did I bring him then? Because, in my opinion, this is the warmest version of the corner. And I'm thinking about starting to apply it to our facilities. But before using it, you need to think, since it is structurally inferior to the first two and will not work everywhere.

What is the peculiarity of all these three options and why is a beam a bad option for a corner?

Angle from a bar, the most losing option

If you notice - in all three options from the boards, the corner can be insulated. Somewhere more, somewhere less. In the case of a beam in the corner, we immediately have 2 drawbacks: firstly, from the point of view of heat engineering, such a corner will be the coldest. Secondly, if there is a beam in the corner, then there are no “shelves” from the inside to attach the interior trim to it.

Of course, the last question can be solved. But remember what I said about “wrong” wireframes? Why make it difficult when you can make it easier? Why make a beam, creating a bridge of cold and thinking how to attach the finish to it later, if you can make a warm corner from the boards? Despite the fact that this will not affect the amount of material or the complexity of the work.

Openings and top trim are the most significant difference between the American frame scheme and the Scandinavian one, but more on that later. So, when they talk about the correct openings in the frame, they usually talk about the following scheme (window and door openings are made according to the same principle).

Correct openings in a frame house

The first thing (1) that people usually pay attention to when talking about “wrong” openings is the double and even triple posts on the sides of the opening. It is often believed that this is necessary for some kind of strengthening of the opening to install a window or door. In fact this is not true. A window or door will be fine on single racks. Why then do we need cohesive boards?

Everything is elementary. Remember, I said that the American frame is as simple and reliable as an iron saw? Pay attention to figure 2. And you will understand that cohesive racks are needed solely to support the elements lying on them. So that the edges of these elements do not hang on nails. Simple, reliable and versatile.

In Figure 3 - one of the simplified varieties, when the bottom trim of the window crashes into a broken rack. But at the same time, both window trims still have supports at the edges.

Therefore, it is impossible to speak formally about the fact that if the racks are not doubled, then this is “wrong”. They can also be single, as in the Scandinavian frame. Rather, it is a mistake when the posts along the edges of the openings are cohesive, but do not bear the load from the elements based on them. In this case, they are simply meaningless.

In this case, the horizontal elements are hanging from the fasteners, so there is no point in doubling or tripling the racks on the sides.

Now let's talk about an element that is already more critical and the absence of which can be considered as an "irregularity" of the opening. This is the “header” above the opening (header).

Window header

This is the really important element. As a rule, some kind of load will come from above to the window or doorway - the logs of the second floor, the rafter system. And the wall itself is weakened by deflection in the area of ​​the opening. Therefore, local reinforcements are made in the openings. American style is headers. In fact, this is a board mounted on an edge above the opening. Here it is already important that the edges of the header either rest on the posts (if the classic American scheme with cohesive posts of openings is used), or be cut into the extreme posts, if they are single. Moreover, the cross section of the header directly depends on the loads and dimensions of the opening. The larger the opening and the stronger the load on it, the more powerful the header. It can also be double, triple, increased in height, etc. Again, it depends on the load. But, as a rule, for openings up to 1.5 m wide, a header from a 45x195 board is enough.

Is the absence of a header a sign that the framework is “wrong”? Yes and no. If you act according to the American principle of “simple and reliable”, then the header must be present at every opening. Do this and be sure of the result.

But in fact, you need to dance from the load falling on the opening from above. For example, a narrow window in a one-story house and rafters in this section of the wall are located along the edges of the opening - the load from above on the opening is minimal and you can do without a header.

Therefore, the issue of the header should be treated as follows. If it exists, great. If it is not there, then the builders (contractor) must clearly explain why, in their opinion, it is not needed here, and it will depend, first of all, on the load falling on the opening zone from above.

Double top harness

Double plank top piping, also a distinctive feature of the American frame

Double top harness

The double strapping again gives reinforcement along the top of the wall for deflection from the load from above - the load from the ceiling, rafters, etc. In addition, pay attention to the overlaps of the second row of strapping.

1. Overlap in the corner - we tie together two perpendicular walls.
2. Overlap in the center - we tie together 2 sections of one wall.
3. Overlap on the partition - we tie together the partition with the outer wall.

Thus, the double strapping also performs the second task - ensuring the integrity of the entire wall structure.

In the domestic version, you can often find the upper trim of the timber. And this, again, is not the best solution. Firstly, the beam is thicker than the double strapping. Yes, it may be better for deflection, but it’s not a fact that it is necessary, but the cold bridge at the top of the wall will be more significant. Well, it’s more difficult to implement this overlap to ensure the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, we return again to the fact that why is it difficult to do, if you can make it easier and more reliable?

Proper jib in a frame house

Another cornerstone. Surely you have come across the phrase “the jibs are made incorrectly”. Let's talk about it. First, what is a slug? This is a diagonal element in the wall, which provides spatial shear rigidity in the lateral plane. Because thanks to the jib, a system of triangular structures appears, and the triangle is the most stable geometric figure.

So, when they talk about the correct jib, then usually we are talking about this option:

Correct jib

Why is such a jib called “correct” and what should I pay attention to?

1. Such a jib is installed with an angle of 45 to 60 degrees - this is the most stable triangle. Of course, the angle may be different, but it is this range that is best.
2. The jib cuts into the upper and lower trim, and does not just rest against the rack - this is quite an important point, so we tie the structure together.
3. The jib crashes into every post in its path.
4. For each node - adjoining to the harness or rack, there must be at least two fastening points. Since one point will give a “hinge” with a certain degree of freedom.
5. The jib cuts into the rib - this way it works better in the structure and interferes less with insulation.

And here is an example of the most “wrong” jib. But nevertheless, it occurs all the time.

It's just a board stuck into the first opening of the frame. What is so “wrong” about it, because formally it is also a triangle?

1. First - a very small angle of inclination.
2. Secondly, in such a plane, the jib board works the worst.
3. Thirdly, it is difficult to fix such a jib to the wall.
4. Fourthly, pay attention to the fact that extremely inconvenient cavities for insulation are formed at the points of junction with the frame. Even if the jib is carefully cut and there is no gap at the end, there is no escape from an acute angle, and it is not an easy task to insulate such an angle with high quality, so most likely it will be done somehow.

Another example, also common. This is a jib cut into the posts, but not cut into the harness.

The jib is not embedded in the harness

This option is already much better than the previous one, but, nevertheless, such a jib will work worse than embedded in the strapping, and after all, the work is 5 minutes more. And if, moreover, it is fixed to each rack with only one nail, then the effect of it will also be minimized.

We will not even consider options for all sorts of small inferior “braces and braces” that do not reach from the top trim to the bottom.

Formally, even the most crooked jib makes at least some contribution. But once again: why do it your way when a good solution already exists?

On this we will finish with the American frame and move on to the Scandinavian one.

Correct scandinavian frame

Unlike America, where the frames are practically standardized and there are very few differences, there are more variations in Scandinavia. Here you can find both the classic American frame and hybrid versions. The Scandinavian frame, in fact, is the development and modernization of the American one. However, basically, when they talk about the Scandinavian frame, we are talking about such a design.

Typical Scandinavian house set

scandinavian frame

Corners, jibs - everything is like the Americans. What to pay attention to?

1. Single strapping on the top of the wall.
2. Power crossbar embedded in racks throughout the wall.
3. Single racks on window and door openings.

In fact, the main difference is this very “Scandinavian” crossbar - it replaces both American headers and double strapping, being a powerful power element.

What, in my opinion, is the advantage of the Scandinavian frame over the American one? The fact that it has a much greater emphasis on minimizing all kinds of cold bridges, which are almost all cohesive boards (double strapping, opening racks). Indeed, between each cohesive boards, a gap can potentially form over time, which you may never know about. Well, it's one thing when the cold bridge has the width of one board and another question - when there are already two or three of them.

Of course, you should not get hung up on cold bridges. You can’t get away from them anyway, and in fact, their importance is often exaggerated. But, nevertheless, they exist, and if it is possible to minimize them relatively painlessly, why not do it?

The Scandinavians in general, unlike the Americans, are very confused about energy saving. The colder, northern climate and expensive energy sources also have an effect. But in terms of climate, Scandinavia is much closer to us (I'm talking primarily about the North-West region) than most American states.

The disadvantage of the Scandinavian frame is its slightly greater complexity, at least in the fact that in all racks you need to make cuts under the crossbar. And the fact that, unlike the American one, it still requires some kind of mental effort. For example: on large openings, double posts to support horizontal elements, and additional crossbars and headers may be required. And somewhere, for example, on the gable walls of one-story buildings, where there is no load from the log or roof, the crossbar may not even be required.

In general, the Scandinavian frame has certain advantages, but requires a little more effort and intelligence than the American one. If the American frame can be assembled with completely disabled brains, then in the Scandinavian one it is better to turn them on, at least on the minimum mode.

"Semi-correct" frames

Let me remind you that by “semi-correct” I mean precisely those that have every right to exist, but differ from typical Scandinavian-American solutions. Therefore, calling them “semi-correct” should be cautious.

I will give a few examples.

An example of how you can "override"

The first example is from our own practice. This house was built by us, but according to the project provided by the customer. We even wanted to redo the project completely, but we were limited by the deadlines, since we had to go to the site; in addition, the customer paid a tangible amount for the project and formally there are no structural violations, but he reconciled with the voiced shortcomings of the current solution.

Why, then, did I classify this frame as “semi-correct”? Pay attention to the fact that there are Scandinavian crossbars, and American headers, and double strapping not only along the top, but also along the bottom of the walls. In short, here is the American scheme, and the Scandinavian one, and another 30% of the stock in Russian is thrown on top, just in case. Well, the prefabricated rack of 6 (!!!) boards under the glued beam of the ridge speaks for itself. Indeed, in this place the only insulation is isoplats from the outside, and cross-insulation from the inside. And if there was a purely American scheme, then there would simply be no insulation in this section of the wall, a bare piece of wood from the outside to the inside.

I call this frame “semi-correct” because from the point of view of constructive reliability, there are no complaints about it. There is a multiple margin of safety "in case of an atomic war." But the abundance of cold bridges, and a huge overrun of material for the frame, and high labor costs, which also affects the price.

This house could be made with a smaller, but sufficient margin of safety, but at the same time reduce the amount of lumber by 30 percent and significantly reduce the number of cold bridges, making the house warmer.

Another example is a “double-volume” framework promoted by a Moscow company.

The main difference is actually a double outer wall, with posts spaced apart from each other. So the frame fully satisfies the strength criteria and is very good from the point of view of heat engineering, due to the minimization of cold bridges, but loses in manufacturability. The task of eliminating cold bridges, which, first of all, is solved by such a frame, can be solved by simpler, more reliable and correct methods such as “cross-insulation”.

And, curiously, usually “semi-correct” frames somehow have Scandinavian-American solutions in them. And the differences are rather in an attempt to improve the good. But it often happens that it turns out that “the best is the enemy of the good”.

Such frameworks can safely be called “semi-correct” precisely because there are no gross violations here. There are differences from the typical American-Scandinavian decisions in attempts to improve something or come up with some kind of “trick”. To pay for them or not is the choice of the customer.

"Wrong" frame houses

Now let's talk about the "wrong" frames. The most typical, I would even say, collective, case is presented in the photo below.

The quintessence of "correct" frame housing construction

What can be immediately noted in this photo?

1. Total use of natural moisture material. Moreover, the material is massive, which dries out the most and changes its geometry in the process of shrinkage.
2. The beam in the corners and on the strapping and even on the racks are cold bridges and inconvenience in further work.
3. Lack of headers and reinforcements of openings.
4. Do not understand how the jib is made, poorly fulfilling its role and interfering with insulation.
5. Assembly on corners with black self-tapping screws, the purpose of which is to fasten the plasterboard during finishing (and not use in load-bearing structures).

The photo above shows almost the quintessence of what is commonly called the “wrong” frame or “RSK”. The abbreviation RSK appeared in 2008 at the FH, at the suggestion of one builder who presented a similar product to the world, called the Russian Power Frame. Over time, as people began to figure out what was what, this abbreviation began to be deciphered as Russian Strashen Karkashen. As an apotheosis of meaninglessness with a claim to a unique solution.

What is most curious, if desired, it can also be classified as “semi-correct”: after all, if the self-tapping screws do not rot (black phosphated self-tapping screws are by no means an example of corrosion resistance) and do not burst during the inevitable shrinkage of the beam, this frame is unlikely to fall apart. That is, such a design has the right to life.

What is the main disadvantage of the “wrong” frames? If people know what they're doing, they pretty quickly come to the Canadian-Scandinavian scheme. Fortunately, information is now in bulk. And if they don’t come, then this speaks of one thing: they, by and large, do not care about the result. The classic answer when trying to ask them why it is so is “we have always built it this way, no one complained”. That is, the entire construction is based solely on intuition and ingenuity. Without trying to ask - how is it customary to do this.

What prevented you from making a board instead of a beam? Make reinforcements of openings? Make normal cuts? Collect for nails? That is, do it right? After all, such a frame does not give exactly any advantages! One large set of not the best solutions with a claim to super strength, etc. Moreover, the labor input is the same as that of the “correct” one, the cost is the same, and the material consumption, perhaps even more.

Summarize

As a result: it is customary to call the American-Scandinavian frame scheme “correct”, due to the fact that it has already been repeatedly tested on thousands of houses, proving its viability and the optimal labor-intensive-reliability-quality ratio.

“Semi-correct” and “incorrect” include all other types of frames. In this case, the frame can be quite reliable, but “non-optimal” from the side of the above.

As a rule, if potential contractors cannot justify the use of certain design solutions that differ from the “correct” American-Scandinavian ones, this indicates that they have no idea about these very “correct” decisions and build a house solely on a whim, replacing knowledge with intuition and ingenuity. And this is a very risky path that may come back to haunt the owner of the house in the future.

That's why. Do you want guaranteed correct, optimal solutions? Pay attention to the classic American or Scandinavian scheme of frame housing construction.

about the author

Hello. My name is Alexey, maybe you met me as Porcupine or Gribnick on the Internet. I am the founder of "Finnish House", a project that has grown from a personal blog into a construction company whose goal is to build a quality and comfortable home for you and your children.

A frame house is a great opportunity to acquire your own comfortable housing for reasonable money and in a short time. But so that the first strong wind or heaving of the soil does not fold it like a house of cards, you need to know a clear sequence of work and some secrets of frame construction. We provide step by step instructions on how to do it right.

Design project and house drawing

Significantly reduce construction time, avoid many mistakes and reduce material consumption, design will help you. But this is not only the study of the interior of the rooms. The design project includes blueprints. For the foundation, truss system and wall frame, they are simply necessary.

To develop a design project and drawings, you can turn to professional designers or try to master specialized programs. For example: ArchiCAD, Arcon, WoodEngine, CadWork. However, please note that some programs require the purchase of a license key and time to master.

Laying the foundation for a frame house

The frame house can be independently erected by you on a slab, pile, columnar or strip foundation. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, suitable for a certain type of soil. How to determine which one to choose?

Soil analysis on the construction site

The foundation, selected in accordance with the characteristics of the soil, is not just a reliable basis for the entire structure. It is also the rational use of your money. Not always a frame house needs an expensive slab or deep foundation.

Helping you make the right choice land analysis taken from the construction site. What it will help determine:

1. The depth of groundwater. If they flow close to the soil surface, the cellar device will have to be abandoned.
2. The qualitative composition of the earth (fine sand, gravel, clay, etc.). The best option for construction is gravel soil, the worst is fine sand.
3. The depth of soil freezing. The larger it is, the more time-consuming and costly the work on laying the foundation will be.

For research, you can dig a hole yourself at least one and a half meters deep, take samples of the earth and take them to the laboratory. A less time-consuming option is to invite geotechnical engineers directly to the construction site.

Features of the strip foundation

The strip foundation is a closed loop of reinforced concrete. It is laid under the load-bearing walls of the house along their entire length.

Despite the complexity and high cost of laying, the strip base is the best option for a frame house. It has a large bearing surface, allows you to equip the basement and perform construction work even on heaving soil.

The sequence of erection of the strip foundation:

1. Digging a trench and laying a sand cushion on its bottom.
2. Waterproofing of trench walls.
3. Installation of wooden formwork.
4. Assembly and installation of reinforcing mesh.
5. Filling the formwork with concrete and its compaction.

Strip foundation height must be at least 2 times its width. Under such conditions, transverse deformation does not occur in it.

Pile-screw foundation - a simple and affordable foundation for a house

The pile-screw foundation allows you to build a residential building on weak and uneven terrain without construction experience. It becomes a reliable support for the walls, as the piles firmly cling to solid rocks below the freezing level of the soil.

Screw piles- metal rods, on the pointed ends of which blades are welded. This design allows you to simply screw them into the ground, like a drill. This can be done with the help of special equipment or manually. But in the latter case, you will need at least three people.

Laying a column foundation

The columnar base is erected only on stable soils with high bearing capacity.

Work is carried out step by step:

1. Round wells are drilled along the selected perimeter in the ground.
2. A metal frame connected from reinforcement is installed in them.
3. The casing formwork is lowered into the wells.
4. Cut off above-ground elements at the same level.
5. The wells are filled with concrete and compacted.

The height of the heads (the above-ground part of the pillars) should not be less than 400 mm. Otherwise, the wood flooring will rot from constant exposure to moisture.

Slab foundation - when a considerable investment justifies itself

The slab foundation is rightfully considered the most expensive. This is due to the large bearing area, which is the main advantage of a monolithic base.

A house built on such a slab is protected from distortions, because even when exposed to frost heaving forces, it moves along with the foundation.

The technology of laying the base involves

1. Removal of the topsoil (fertile).
2. Geofabric laying, backfilling of sand and gravel cushion and its compaction.
3. Flooring waterproofing material.
4. Installation of wooden formwork.
5. Mounting and installation of a mesh connected from ribbed reinforcement.
6. Pouring concrete and its subsequent compaction with a special vibration machine.

The height of the slab base is usually 100 mm.

Lower trim of the house

If you are going to build a frame house with your own hands, you can’t do without a lower trim. It unites all the elements of the foundation, if it is columnar or pile-screw, connects the base of the house with its walls, and serves as a support for laying the floor.

For device bottom strapping use a beam of 150x200 mm or a bunch of boards placed on the end. Lumber must be pre-treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant.

They are fixed on the foundation with the help of anchor bolts with a wide nut. The connection of the beams to each other is carried out using panels or “half-tree”, “in the paw”, additionally strengthening them with nails, steel corners.

Laying and warming the subfloor

The basement beams form the basis of the subfloor. Their function is performed by bars with a cross section of 140x180 mm or boards with a size of at least 160x50 mm. The ideal option is a material with the same cross section as the elements of the lower trim.

The fastening of the floor beams is carried out “in half a tree”, making the appropriate cuts. For additional fixation, two nails are used for each junction of the bars.

Then the flooring and its insulation are performed according to the following scheme:

1. Fastening cranial bars to the bottom of the beams.
2. Fixing subfloor boards on them.
3. Waterproofing beams and flooring with dense polyethylene.
4. Laying insulation in the cells formed by the bars.
5. Installation of vapor barrier.
6. Flooring plywood, floorboard or OSB board.

Such a “pie” is ready for fine finishing at the final stage of self-construction of a frame house.

Stages of erection of the frame of walls and roof

The draft floor with its rigid base is the reference point for erecting the frame of the walls and mounting the truss system under the roof. This is one of the most time-consuming stages of building a frame house.

Installation of vertical racks for external walls

According to the existing lower strapping, markup is made for fixing the vertical racks of the frame. Their length determines the height of the ceiling on the floor minus its fine finish.

Work begins with the installation of corner elements with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm. They are fixed in two main ways:

• With the help of a wooden dowel, which should rise 80-100 mm above the corner connection of the piping. In this case, the rack is literally strung on it.
• With reinforced galvanized metal corners.

For racks on straight sections, a beam with a smaller section is suitable - 50x100 mm. Its connection with the strapping is carried out by complete, incomplete cutting or using steel corners. Here you can use fasteners without reinforcement.

When determining the pitch of the racks, be guided by the width of the insulation or wall sheathing sheet material. To prevent the vertical elements of the frame from heeling, they can be fixed with temporary jibs.

Upper frame frame and interfloor overlap

Only after fixing the racks strictly vertically and in a fixed position, they begin to work on the upper harness. All grooves and fastenings in it should be similar to those that took place in a similar lower belt. This will give the structure good spatial rigidity.

Note! The width of the beams of the upper trim should be equal to the width of the uprights.

Mounted similarly to the basement. Logs from a board 50x200 mm with a step of 600-800 mm are fastened with nails to the bars of the upper trim.

If the ceiling is not an element of the roof truss system, but the floor of the second floor, it must be further reinforced with spacers. Their function is performed by edged boards, which are lined up between the lags in one line and fixed with nails. With a span width of the second floor of 2.5-3 m, one line of spacers is sufficient. For a larger span, you will need two parallel lines.

Assembling the truss system

The truss system determines the shape of the roof of a frame house built from scratch. Most often, it is double-sided.

Suitable for rafters boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 50x200 mm. They are installed on the bars of the upper trim in increments of 0.6-1.1 m.

The rafters are also interconnected, which gives the roof appropriate rigidity and determines its bearing capacity. To do this, use the following elements:

• longitudinal runs;
• crate;
• crossbars;
• racks;
• sill;
• puff.

If the span of the second floor or attic is less than 10 m and there are no load-bearing walls in the house, except for external ones, hanging rafters can be mounted. This system involves fastening each rafter with one end to the strapping, and the other - to the counter element. Tightening in the form of a horizontal beam allows you to strengthen the structure.

Rafters appropriate where there is an intermediate support for them in the form of a load-bearing wall or a columnar element. They are reinforced with internal middle racks.

Thermal insulation of walls and roofs

Work on the insulation of walls and roofs should be proceeded only after the installation of all windows and doors.

In the right frame house, the technology for their implementation is similar and comes down to creating a “pie” consisting of several layers.

• Outer cladding. It can be fiberboard, OSB, DSP or facade board.
• Waterproofing. It is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture from the street.
• Thermal insulation material. It can be polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc.
• Vapor barrier. Usually, a membrane film is used to remove moisture from the room.
• Internal lining. Suitable for these purposes: plywood, OSB, drywall.

The roof is not sheathed on the outside with sheet material. His place is taken by crate, which serves as the basis for the roofing material.

Insulation of the interfloor overlap is similar to the thermal insulation of the subfloor.

Engineering systems of a frame house

Without utilities, a frame house will be a dark and cold box. For this reason, it is necessary to know where and at what stage they are laid.

• Heating pipes and water supply systems are mounted inside the frame walls. Do this before warming them up. The cold water supply pipe is placed in a corrugated moisture-resistant "sleeve", which is associated with the constant formation of condensate on it.
• Sewer pipes are mounted in the walls and under the floor. Their supply to septic tanks is provided at the stage of laying the foundation.
• Electrical cables are located inside the walls, under the false ceiling or in the channels of the skirting boards.
• Laying hidden electrical cables can only be carried out in special pipes and ducts. These works are also performed before the thermal insulation of the walls.

Video: unacceptable mistakes in construction

Cottages with a full second floor are the most popular in suburban construction. Even on a plot of a small area, they allow you to create all the conditions for a comfortable stay for your family. At the same time, living space increases and it becomes possible to remove bedrooms from noisy common areas.

The 2-story frame house is lightweight and does not need an expensive foundation. The load-bearing frame is made of planed lumber that has undergone chamber drying, and the sheathing is made of OSB-boards and environmentally friendly insulation. Such buildings themselves maintain a comfortable microclimate, they are resistant to mechanical loads and aggressive environmental influences.

The Dachny Sezon company designs and builds turnkey two-story frame houses according to ready-made and individual projects. Using modern technologies of Finnish and Canadian housing construction, we build beautiful, reliable and warm housing in 1.5-2 months.

Order a 2-storey house in the company "Dachny Sezon"

The site presents projects of two-story frame houses, floor drawings, photos of already built objects. At your discretion, three configuration options are offered: "Basic", "Basic" and "Turnkey". It is possible to make any changes to the requirements of the customer, as well as the development of an individual project from scratch.

Our advantages:

• Staged payment - 1% - 14% - 20% - 20% - 20% - 20% - 5%
• Internal redevelopment - free of charge
• Technical supervision at all stages of construction
• Own production of lumber
• Free delivery of materials in Moscow and the Moscow region (up to 100 km from MKAD)
• 7 years house warranty

Additionally, you can inexpensively order finishing work, the construction of a porch, veranda or terrace, filing the roof with spotlights, laying water supply, heating and sewage networks around the house. Any project from our database can be purchased separately, without ordering construction work. For more information about available projects and prices for additional services, call: +7 (499) 650–50–18.

A warm and inexpensive house that can be built in one season is the dream of any owner. It is these requirements that frame housing construction meets. The light weight of all structural elements makes it possible to do without the involvement of lifting and other special equipment, and modern heat-insulating materials make frame houses suitable for life even in harsh northern winters. But it is not enough to know how to build a frame house, it is necessary to comply with all the requirements of the technology and take into account the phased features of the construction of the structure. We asked the specialists of the City of Houses company to tell about all the nuances of frame housing construction.

Finished frame house Source premium-sk.ru

Basic rules for frame construction

So that the end result of the construction does not disappoint, before construction, you need to familiarize yourself with simple rules:

• The main criterion when choosing lumber is quality. It is better to give preference to kiln-dried wood than wood of natural moisture, which can crack when dried out. A good option would be technical drying of the timber, which minimizes the amount of moisture in the tree.
• Entrust the work to professionals. Building a house in which you will live is not the most suitable platform for experiments, if something is done wrong, then at best it will lead to uncomfortable living conditions, and at worst - to emergency situations. And this is not even taking into account the fact that construction is not only the erection of walls, but also a lot of narrow-profile types of work: wiring communications (sewage, electricity, heating), roofing at height and much more.

A professional team builds a frame house in a short time Source analytspectr.ru

• Every little thing matters. Trying to save on fasteners, insulation or wood impregnations can be expensive. Poor-quality, but cheap insulation can release harmful substances that are hazardous to health. Unreliable fastening of the elements can lead to a violation of the integrity of the frame.

The technology for building a frame house is a phased work, which in itself will help save budget funds. Therefore, you should not save on building materials.

Site selection

Two groups of factors that influence the place of the future home are recommendatory and binding.

The latter include:

• Fire regulations. They regulate the rules for the location of buildings depending on the fire hazard. For example, the distance between buildings made of non-combustible materials is at least 6 meters, for wood and other combustible materials - 12 m.
• Sanitary standards. They regulate the distance from the house to outbuildings, power lines, trees and other things.

Choosing the right location for your home requires many factors to consider. Source goroddomov.ru

• Horizon Orientation. Exit windows to the south or east will maximize natural light.
• Accounting for prevailing winds. Do not arrange additional windows and doors on the leeward side.
• Distance to the road. The greater the distance to the road, the quieter it will be in the house, but will increase the access road.
• Appearance from the window. The location of windows overlooking the garden is preferable than the courtyard of the estate and outbuildings.

To comply with all norms and choose the most suitable place, you must contact the design organization.

The foundation for the house - the basis of the basics

A strong foundation is the key to a strong and durable home. For frame buildings, a foundation of one of the types is usually erected:

• shallow-depth tape;
• pile-screw.

In the first case, earthworks will be carried out first, so that there is a place to fill the foundation, then formwork is made and a reinforcing frame is laid out in it.

The second stage is pouring concrete. It is technologically correct to do this in one go, but sometimes layered pouring is also allowed. As the formwork hardens, it is removed - the foundation must gain strength within 30 days. After that, waterproofing work is carried out, and the assembly of the lower trim begins.

Scheme of a strip foundation for a frame house Source goroddomov.ru

The pile foundation, in turn, is considered one of the most budgetary and prefabricated.

The pile is a thick metal pipe, the end of which is equipped with a helical blade. They are twisted into the ground with the involvement of special equipment. There are some types of driven piles, but they are rarely used.

Source goroddomov.ru

Video description

What are the pros and cons of a pile screw foundation? Is it possible to make a quality foundation for little money? More in the video:

Piles are an innovative method of foundation installation that has recently appeared on the domestic market. Therefore, while he enjoys the distrust of consumers. However, proper installation in compliance with all requirements will ensure the reliability of construction and a long service life.

Bottom harness and floor

To protect the strapping from moisture from below, a roofing material or hydroisol is laid on the foundation. You can use bituminous mastic, but it will be more expensive than rolled material. Sometimes materials are combined: once the foundation is covered with mastic, and waterproofing is laid on top.

The assembly of a frame house begins with strapping. For it, boards with a section of 15x5 cm or a beam of 15x15 cm are used. The boards are laid around the perimeter and aligned along the outer edge of the foundation. Holes for studs are drilled in the right places. The second layer of boards is laid in such a way as to cover the bottom joints of the boards. This gives the structure additional strength. It is easier and faster to install timber, but its price is higher than boards. In addition, the total bearing capacity of a double board will be higher than that of a single beam.

This is what fixed lags look like Source goroddomov.ru

A 20x5 cm board is installed on the harness on the edge. It is also aligned along the outer edge of the foundation and fastened with self-tapping screws. Logs are mounted from boards of the same section. Fasten with screws or special corners. Installation step - 30–60 cm.

Important! The longer the span of the lag, the smaller the step. This will ensure an even distribution of the load on the floor, minimize the deflection of the lag and eliminate the “trampoline” effect.

The next step is warming. Here it is important to choose a quality insulation.

Joints with lags must be sealed with sealing materials. Source 9dach.ru

Important! It is undesirable to use foam. It refers to combustible materials, respectively, represents an increased danger to wooden structures. Most often, stone wool slabs are used for thermal insulation of the floor.

For the construction of the subfloor, a 10x2.5 cm edged board is used. Plywood 0.5–0.6 cm thick is laid on top of it. Plywood sheets can be laid immediately without flooring from the boards. In this case, the thickness of the sheets should be at least 1.5 cm. This option is faster, but in some cases more expensive. Like brickwork, plywood is stacked. A gap of several centimeters between the sheets compensates for the expansion with increasing humidity.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of frame houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

A strong frame is the key to a strong home

There are two schemes for building a frame house:

• construction of a wall on the floor and its subsequent installation in a vertical position;
• assembly of all elements at once on the spot.

The first method is usually used in factories for the production of modules for frame-panel houses. In some cases, assembly on the floor is easier than on site, but the resulting structure will be quite heavy, so it will take several people to lift and install it.

Installation of an already assembled wall Source serbet.edg.access.ly

Even one person can collect elements vertically at once. This method is slower, but it will help to avoid inaccuracies in size - the parts are assembled "in place".

To calculate the pitch, there are special formulas that take into account the load on the structure. But in practice, most often the step between the racks depends on the width of the insulation. The distance between them should be a few centimeters less than the insulation. This will ensure a snug fit to the racks and retain heat.

There are two options for assembling the frame: on self-tapping screws or on nails.

Depending on the type of outer skin, permanent or temporary cuttings are made. If the outer part is sheathed with sheet material with sufficient strength, it will add additional rigidity to the structure and constant mowing will not be required.

If the exterior finish is hard, this option for mounting the slopes is possible Source doma-vmoskve.ru

If the finishing material is type-setting - siding or lining, then permanent mowing will be required.

Particular attention is required to the installation of corner posts. The technology is simple, but just an installed vertical bar can freeze through. Therefore, a warm corner is used in the construction of frame houses.

Vertically installed racks are fixed with slopes Source goroddomov.ru

If lumber of a smaller section is used or the owners want to additionally insulate the corner elements, then several options are possible:

• To increase the thickness, two boards are nailed to the corner posts with a depth equal to the depth of the post and a width of 5 cm. After external finishing, a special trim is stuffed into the corner, which provides an air gap between the corner and the trim board. This will reduce heat loss.
• Before the start of the outer skin, a counter-batten is mounted to hold the waterproofing. A beam of 5x5 or 5x4 cm is usually used. 5 cm is the optimal size for the ventilation gap between the wall and the finishing material. The selected material is attached to the counter-crate - lining, siding, imitation of timber.

overlap

Ceiling beams are attached to the upper trim by cutting or on metal corners. The notch should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. The cross section and step of the beams depends on the purpose of the second floor.

• If it is assumed that there is an attic or a full-fledged residential floor, then the construction of the ceiling is similar to the floor of the first floor.
• If there is only an attic at the top, then the beams are taken with a smaller section.

For the convenience of work, a draft floor is laid on the ceiling from a board of 10x2.5 cm. This will facilitate movement and make work safer.

If the house assumes a one-story structure, then the upper beams are mounted with a 30 cm outlet for the walls of the frame. This is done to attach the rafters.

Beam fastening Source goroddomov.ru

Installation of the truss system

An important stage in the construction of a frame house, as with any other technology, is the choice of type and installation of the roof. Frame construction is positioned as a fast construction. Therefore, most often choose the usual gable design. Subject to all construction standards, the roof of a frame house can be built of any configuration and complexity, but this will take more time.

For good snow removal, the slope of the roof should be more than 28 degrees, but should not exceed 50 degrees - the wind load on such a roof increases several times.

Source goroddomov.ru

For the construction of rafters, boards 20x5 cm 6 m long are taken. The first pair of rafters is assembled from two boards and installed on the edge of the frame. The same pair is installed on the opposite side. Cords are pulled between two pairs of rafters on both sides to control the plane of the roof. The rest of the rafters are exposed on them. The step between them varies from 60 to 80 cm, depending on the choice of insulation. For strengthening, wooden crossbars with a section of 20x5 cm are used. They fasten a pair of rafters like the letter “A”.

Video description

How to make a truss system of a frame house is shown in the video:

The nature of the crate depends on the selected roofing material. It can be soft tiles, corrugated board or metal tiles. The limitation will be the weight of the roofing material. For example, the use of clay or clinker tiles is not recommended - a large weight will create an additional load on the frame of the house.

Photo frame houses

Frame house with a balcony Source: vash-remontik.ru

Frame house with classic German exterior finish Source lesstroy.net

Original frame house with a small slope of the roof Source all-companies.ru

Frame house with a veranda and a sloping roof

Two-story prefabricated frame house Source mebel-go.ru

Construction of a frame house in winter Source pinterest.ca

Frame house with a 4-pitched combined roof Source cdd.su

Conclusion

A frame house is a technology that is only gaining popularity in domestic housing construction. Short construction time and cost savings are significant advantages over other construction methods. But the technology for building a frame house will require strict adherence to all technological processes and stages of construction, which will allow you to fully appreciate its advantages.

Additionally

The exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country" expresses its sincere gratitude to the specialists of the company "City of Houses" for their help in creating the material.

The City of Houses company is its own design department, a guarantee of quality and the use of proven and profitable solutions in the construction of country houses and cottages.