The arrangement of various types of utilities involves the well-known ventilation pipes installed on the roof. This technique has its own special aspects and requires strict adherence to all installation processes. It is usually used in a private home. In this way, outlet channels are equipped for ventilation of premises, installation of a sewer riser, and ventilation of the attic.

How to insulate ventilation pipes on the roof, and what materials are best used for this?

Ventilation pipes on the roof should be placed in such a way that exhaust air can be removed through them without much difficulty. In this case, its height and diameter are determined based on the required productivity.

Pay attention! The simplest type of device is considered to be the pipe outlet through the roof ridge. In this case, the main condition is considered to be properly insulated to prevent the formation of condensation.

Without additional insulation, moisture will accumulate on the internal sections of the pipes and flow down the walls, penetrating into all leaky places. This will cause the appearance of damp areas on the walls and ceilings and their premature destruction. And your air ducts may also suffer from condensation. To avoid all these unpleasant moments, you should take care of installing insulation around the ventilation ducts.

Which areas need to be insulated?

So, is it necessary to insulate the ventilation, and in what places does this need to be done? The answer suggests itself - insulation should be done in those places where rapid cooling of air masses occurs. A ventilation pipe laid through a solid wall must be passed through a special heat-insulated liner and insulated right up to the deflector element. In private homes, such pipes pass through attics and are discharged outside through the roof. And their insulation is carried out from the point where noticeable cooling begins. Moreover, it is recommended to move the insulating border slightly towards the warm room. This is in case the frosts are more severe than usual.

Insulation materials

You should consider all acceptable methods of insulation and choose the most suitable one. It is important that the method we choose meets certain requirements:

• Good thermal insulation properties.
• Fire safety. The material should not belong to the flammable group.
• Relatively low cost.

We will analyze only those options when the channels are insulated from the outside. After all, it is not always possible to dismantle the structure, and the internal diameter will be noticeably reduced due to insulation. So what is the best way to do such work?

One of the well-known materials is mineral wool. It is a cheap option, has 100% fire safety, and is produced in rolls with a layer thickness of five centimeters. But there are also disadvantages associated with labor-intensive work. The fact is that the cotton wool needs to be wrapped around the pipe, and a protective layer of foil or galvanized steel is placed on top. Work with such material must be carried out in protective equipment that protects the respiratory system and eyes.

During operation, the material cakes somewhat, forming gaps in the insulating layer. If on insulating layer moisture penetrates, it also loses its properties. The best solution is to use a corrugated pipe, which is based on cotton wool. But this method is good at zero point in the construction of ventilation pipes.

A good solution is to use polystyrene foam as an insulating material, especially if you purchased a ready-made split shell. All that remains is to put it on the pipe and connect it together at the seams. This method provides good thermal insulation, is performed quite simply and without danger to health, and is relatively cheap. However, the material is considered flammable and releases toxins when burned.

You can use shells made of polyurethane foam and polypropylene foam. Such materials are stronger than polystyrene foam and are more expensive. To work, they need a bandage made with ordinary knitting wire. The manufacturer produces such insulating structures in the form of tubes of various diameters with cuts. All that remains is to put such blanks on the pipe, and the insulation is ready. The material is cheap, able to withstand moisture and minor mechanical stress.

And another option is self-adhesive material. The method of operation is simple - remove the protective film from the adhesive side, apply it to the pipe and press it. This material is perfect for square or rectangular shafts. The layer of insulation material reaches one centimeter. If necessary, it can be used in several layers.

Remember! The effective operation of your ventilation system depends on the correct insulation.

Video

This video will help you understand what and how best to do when arranging the ventilation of a private house:

Ventilation in apartments is located in the wettest rooms, and in private houses most of the system is located in unheated areas. Increased level humidity and the collision of warm and cold air leads to the formation of destructive condensation on the walls of the outlet. Moisture accelerates the corrosion process and also causes the appearance of fungus and mold. The ventilation system becomes a distributor of microorganism spores that can cause various types of diseases in residents. At the moment, the only way to solve this problem is to insulate the ventilation pipes in the attic, as well as in other unfavorable areas where the system is located.

Advantages of insulated ventilation

The main task of ventilation ducts is to maintain a comfortable level of temperature and humidity in the house. In addition, they are responsible for the supply of fresh air and the removal of dust-contaminated air. Protecting the channel from exposure to adverse factors will not only improve the quality of its operation, but will also significantly extend its service life. Insulated ventilation pipes have the following advantages.

1. Low noise level

Methods for insulating ventilation pipes

Roll materials

This group of insulation materials is universal, as it can also be used for pipe insulation round section, and for insulating square boxes. In addition, they are the simplest and most convenient to use. Installation begins with cleaning the outlet surface, removing rust and moisture stains. Next, a piece of rolled material is wrapped around a certain section of the channel. The number of layers is chosen at your discretion, but it is preferable to have more than one. The edge of the insulator is temporarily secured with tape.

After wrapping the entire accessible area of ​​the system, it is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture penetration. For these purposes, a foil insulator with a thickness of about 4 mm is used, which is wrapped around the insulation in one layer. The joints of the canvases are sealed with reinforced tape, which will prevent moisture and dust from penetrating into the cracks between the joints, and will also securely fix the edges of the materials.

Foam plastic

Insulation of square boxes is carried out using sheet foam. Since this variety is better known, some people do not understand how to insulate a ventilation pipe using this material. Circular channels are insulated using special elements in the form of a shell. Two parts of one segment are connected by tongues and grooves.

Beacons are marked on the element along which cutting will be done. The length of each segment is measured based on the length of sections of the system between its turns and other things. Using a stationery knife, a segment is cut off. Two halves of the segment are applied to the cleaned surface and connected to each other by pressing firmly on their edges. It is necessary to drive the tenons into the grooves from one edge of the segment to the other.

Insulation of pipes with foam plastic

Foamed polyethylene

Installation of this insulator is also one of the easiest jobs to perform. Before fixing the insulation, the pipe is thoroughly cleaned and dried. The length between the exit of the ventilation duct from the wall, either to its entry into the opposite wall, or to its first turn, is measured. A section on a tubular insulating form is measured and cut to the appropriate length. This segment is cut along one of the sides from beginning to end. The cut is made strictly on the place intended for this purpose; on the surface of the material it looks like a seam.

We open one edge of the cut and place the mold on the pipe, gradually moving along the segment. We cover the joints between the individual segments and the places of the cuts with special glue. If desired, the glue can be replaced with sticky mounting tape.

Foil insulation belongs to the category of more expensive materials, but their technical characteristics are superior to other options. The reflective layer allows you to reduce the thickness of the insulation

Polyurethane foam

When it is necessary to increase the level of fire resistance of the channel, the ventilation pipes are insulated with polyurethane foam. Installation of this material also begins with the process of cleaning the outlet surface from dirt, moisture and rust.

Next, the cylindrical insulation is cut into separate segments of the required sizes. Each individual segment is cut lengthwise into two equal parts. At the edges of the semicircles, allowances are made for joining with adjacent elements. On the halves of one segment, half of the material is cut off inside the circle, on the halves of the second - on the outside of the circle. All elements are connected on the pipe, and their joining points are tightened with bandages.

Video: the process of spraying polyurethane onto a pipe

There is no urgent need to use expensive materials, as well as specific work that can only be performed by specialists.

Particular attention is paid to the arrangement of high-quality thermal insulation of external and internal surfaces of residential buildings. At the same time, thermal insulation of ventilation pipes and chimneys is carried out only in exceptional cases. Is it necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe on the roof? This question is of interest to the owners of private households, where an autonomous heating system for the house is provided, there is a chimney and forced ventilation.

Professional builders claim that as a result of reducing the thermal conductivity of chimneys and ventilation pipes, their service life is significantly increased. Carrying out all the construction processes associated with insulating chimney ventilation pipes yourself will not be difficult. This does not require any special knowledge skills, you just need to choose the right quality material and put in a little effort.

The need for insulation measures

The main negative reasons affecting the service life of a brick chimney pipe are smoke or moisture. This is especially evident during the cold period, when there is a sharp change in temperature conditions.

Condensate protruding on the walls of the pipe tightly clogs all the small cracks surfaces brick chimney. The consequence of a sharp drop in temperature is the freezing of moisture and the formation of ice. As you know, water expands when it freezes, so there is pressure from the inside on the structural material of the masonry. Experiencing constant negative impact, the chimney is destroyed.

Besides this, there is another danger. The consequence of fuel combustion is a number of oxides, on their basis solutions of sulfuric or carbonic acid are obtained. Combustion waste along with condensate settles on the walls of the chimney pipe, destroying brick and metal surfaces.

Advantages of an insulated chimney:

• no condensation forms on the pipe walls;
• the probability of fire in the ceilings is zero;
• the amount of resin and soot decreases.

Is it necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe? Definitely necessary! A structure insulated with special material looks more attractive and is easier to care for.

Choosing high-quality thermal insulation

Manufacturers offer large assortment thermal insulation materials for ventilation pipes. Each type has certain characteristics and advantages. When choosing the most suitable thermal insulation option, the following conditions must be taken into account:

• thermal insulation density;
• thermal conductivity of the coating;
• chimney structural material;
• temperature climatic conditions;
• fire safety of the material;
• moisture permeability of insulation;
• permissible loads, installation conditions.

Most commonly used broken brick, glass wool, fiber insulation, slag concrete slabs.

Fiberglass and mineral wool are fireproof. This quality completely eliminates the possibility of self-ignition of the material. In addition, the thermal insulation does not emit substances harmful to human life and perfectly withstands the aggressive influence of the atmospheric environment.

Various methods of thermal insulation

Today there are several options for how to insulate a pipe on the roof.

The most common method of arranging a chimney is using glass wool or mineral wool; preference should be given to materials produced in the form of slabs. During the work, the high vapor permeability of thermal insulation should be taken into account. Pipe insulation based on fibrous materials has a limited service life, it is necessary to install a protective hydrocoating.

If the chimney to be insulated is made of brick, you can plaster the surfaces of the pipe. For this, a special slag-lime mixture is used. During further operation, it is necessary to regularly inspect and, if necessary, repair the plastered surfaces of the pipe. Otherwise, from the chimney into formed depressions or scalding soot could get into the cracks. Floors and roofing will suffer from this. One of the main advantages of this method is the relatively low cost of insulation material and ease of installation.

How to insulate an asbestos pipe on a roof? One of the most reliable methods of thermal insulation is the use of broken brick chips or granular backfill. The created layer retains heat well and prevents the formation of condensation products. The material is inexpensive, but additional waterproofing is required. In addition, you will need to create a durable frame.

Stages of construction work

Once a suitable insulation material has been selected, you can begin work on thermal insulation of the chimney.

Attention! Any type of chimney insulation must be carried out taking into account all building codes and requirements.

When creating thermal insulation for a pipe, you should leave the necessary space (about 5 cm) between the brick chimney and the insulating material. The segment of insulating material must be laid so that it takes up about 40 cm on the roof of the attic. Care should be taken to ensure reliable tightness of all existing joints. To carry out insulation work, special adhesives with fire-resistant properties and adhesive tape are used.

High-quality insulation of the external surfaces of a brick chimney is carried out according to a certain scheme:

Upon completion of all construction work, the thermal insulation cake is decorated with facing material, which at the same time serves as protection from the external negative impact and a wonderful decorative element.

Conclusion

It should be noted that in the absence of the necessary experience, it is better to entrust all work related to the insulation of chimneys and ventilation pipes to professionals. But if you are completely confident in your abilities, then you can carry out the insulation yourself. The main thing is to do everything carefully, do not leave gaps on the pipe, otherwise all the work will be in vain. It is from the consistent and correct execution All processes depend on the service life and quality of the chimney.

Insulation is necessary to get rid of the main scourge of pipes - condensation. An uninsulated pipe is doomed to constantly become covered with moisture on the inner surface of the ventilation duct. Draining condensate will certainly seep through the joints and saturate the walls and ceilings. Consequences: damp walls and ceilings, mold, collapse of plaster, etc.

The main question is: why?

It is affected depending on the material from which it is made:

• will gradually lose its protective layer.
• For and PVC condensate not scary.

Another danger that threatens a building due to condensation in ventilation ducts is the freezing of frost outside warm room. If frosts are severe and prolonged, only because of this phenomenon the clearance in the ventilation duct can narrow to zero.

Condensation appears for two reasons:

1. Saturation of the air in a living room with water vapor due to current activities: cooking, washing, and also from breathing. Household appliances during operation can also be a source of water vapor: irons, microwave ovens, humidifiers, etc.
2. In production, equipment can be a constant source of water vapor entering the ventilation ducts.

The amount of steam that can constantly be in the air directly depends on the temperature. The higher the air temperature, the more steam it can contain. A change in temperature, even slightly, leads to a decrease in the ability of the air to hold water in a vapor state, which is why when cooling the air, condensation necessarily settles at the outlet of the ventilation duct.

Where should insulation be done?

The answer is simple: where the temperature difference occurs. When a ventilation pipe passes through the main wall of a building, the hole is lined with thermal insulation, and the pipe itself is insulated right up to the reflector. For example, when outputting ventilation pipe of a private house through an unheated attic to the roof, it is necessary to insulate the point of passage through the ceiling of the topmost floor, and the pipe itself before it exits onto the roof.

Where the temperature of the walls of the ventilation duct changes, condensation occurs. This point is also called the “dew point”. It is from this that the insulation is installed. Calculating the position of this point is the first stage in insulation design.

The situation is somewhat different with supply ventilation. The amount of supply ventilation duct deposited on its outer walls is directly dependent on the length of the ventilation duct and the features of its installation. Here it may be necessary to insulate not only pipes, but also valves. It should be noted that insulated valves are required mainly in very spacious premises (offices, warehouses, production workshops). Externally, it looks like adjustable blinds that can limit air flow and increase the temperature of the supplied air using tubular heaters.

It is possible to regulate the air flow rate through the valve manually using special levers, or using a simple electric drive system. A typical example of the technical characteristics of such a valve: cross-section up to 3.5 sq.m. and the power of heating heating elements is up to 8 kW. Moreover, with such a large cross-sectional area, heating elements will not be able to significantly change the temperature of the supplied air; their task is different: to heat the valve flaps in order to prevent them from icing and accidents.

In each case, when choosing a ventilation insulation option, a preliminary economic calculation is necessary. The total length of the ventilation duct and the costs of its insulation are calculated. The obtained data is also compared with the cost of ventilation repairs. By comparing the numbers, a decision is made on the feasibility of insulation.

Using the table, it is easy to determine, given the calculated indoor air temperature and a known average air humidity, where exactly the “dew point” will be located. Where the duct wall cools to the temperature indicated in the table.

How to insulate?

When there is a need for insulation, the “dew point” has been found, all the necessary calculations have been carried out, the key question remains to be resolved: what material should be used for insulation? Consumers have the same requirements for modern heat-insulating materials:

• High thermal insulation properties;
• Fire safety;
• Affordable price.

Here is a comparative analysis of the most popular heat-insulating materials today with an overview of their advantages and disadvantages:

• Mineral wool. The cheapest to insulate, absolutely fireproof. Disadvantages include: labor-intensive installation, caking, the need to comply with safety measures during direct contact with the material, loss thermal insulation properties when damp.

• Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Very easy to use solution. “Shells” made of foam plastic are available in various diameters and dimensions and are completely ready for installation. The two hemispheres are fixed using a tongue-and-groove connection. Cheapness and durability are two more important advantages. Important disadvantages limit the use of this material: flammability and toxicity of combustion products, as well as inflexibility and fragility.

• Polyurethane foam and polypropylene foam. The principle of making insulation is the same as the previous one. The two plastic shells are also held together using a tongue-and-groove joint. However, the properties of this insulation are different. First of all, it has much higher mechanical strength. The cost of the material is higher than that of foam. Also, for installation, in addition to the groove connection, a wire bandage is used, which increases the cost of installation.

• Foamed polyethylene. Available in the format of split pipes of different diameters. During installation, the tube is simply placed on top of the ventilation duct. That's the whole installation. Key advantages: low cost and moisture resistance, mechanical strength. Available in format penofol– foamed polyethylene with an outer coating of aluminum foil. Due to the coating, the thermal insulation capacity increases, and the system also acquires dust-repellent properties. The fastening is very simple - the surface adjacent to the ventilation duct is self-adhesive.

Conclusion

The need to insulate ventilation ducts must be economically justified, since with a large length of ventilation systems and large diameters of ventilation ducts, the costs of insulation will be serious. Choice heat-insulating material is also carried out with an eye to its characteristics and cost. We bring to your attention a video material that outlines current issues of insulating hoods.

One of the ways to insulate a ventilation pipe

Such questions arise before the owner who equips the premises with a heating and ventilation system. The answer to the first question in most regions of Russia is obvious. But how and with what help you can do this, you should figure it out.

When installing ventilation ducts, various materials are used: galvanized, polypropylene, flexible corrugated. Ventilation ducts often need to be insulated. To save on labor costs and reduce costs, you can use ready-made insulated pipes for ventilation.

Composition and technical characteristics of insulated pipes

Insulated flexible pipe for ventilation has good characteristics, but loses in appearance

Insulated channels are otherwise called sandwich pipes. They received this name because of their design: two pipes, between which insulating material. The pipes have different diameters, the difference between which is the width of the insulation layer.

Stainless steel is usually used as the material for the ventilation pipe. Outer pipe can be made of galvanized steel. Such options are often chosen for chimneys, because stainless steel is resistant to high temperatures and is generally more durable. For ventilation, it is enough to use a sandwich pipe, both components of which are made of galvanized steel. This will also allow you to save about 50% due to the cheapness of the material.

Stainless steel pipe can also be used for a chimney

Basalt fiber is often used as insulation, as it has an optimal set of characteristics:

• Low degree of thermal conductivity: 0.03-0.05 V*m/K.
• Water absorption: 2%. The material practically does not absorb moisture, which ensures its hydrophobic property;
• Strength: 5-80 kPa. Indicators vary for different brands of material.
• Long service life is ensured by strength properties and a low likelihood of deformation occurring over time. Basalt does not rot and does not contribute to the spread of fungus.
• Fire safety. The non-flammable qualities of the material can become an obstacle to the movement of fire. Melting point - 1114°C.
• Vapor permeability. The ability to pass steam without releasing warm air.
• Soundproofing. Basalt fiber reduces vertical sound waves.

It is especially worth emphasizing the low chemical activity of basalt. When it comes into contact with metal surfaces, the risk of rust on the metal is reduced to zero.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Pros

Advantages of sandwich pipes for ventilation:

1. High performance and characteristics ensuring long service life and reliability of the completed ventilation ducts.
2. Working with insulated pipes for ventilation is quite simple. A non-professional can perform all the main stages of installation.
3. Laying sandwich pipes takes much less time than installing a conventional pipe and its subsequent insulation.
4. Attractive appearance. If you insulate ventilation pipes yourself, it is not easy to achieve aesthetics.
5. Longer service life. The sandwich pipe is protected from condensate penetration.

Cons

Among the disadvantages of a ready-made insulated pipe for ventilation, the higher price stands out. You can always use cheaper types of pipes and insulation, and also not make the outer shell of metal, but use any protective materials. But this option is not acceptable if the ventilation duct is located in a clearly visible place.
Also, the disadvantages include the large weight of the sandwich pipe. It is twice the weight of normal metal pipe and several times - polymer or corrugated channels.

Features of installation of insulated ventilation

You can install ventilation yourself, but you should entrust the design to a specialist

To provide optimal ventilation without air injection, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements for pipe laying at the design stage.
In particular, comply with the basic rules and requirements:

• Pipe large section: the larger it is, the less resistance the circulating air will receive. The minimum permissible section is 14x14 cm;
• Channel length. Air discharges faster with higher ducts. The shorter it is, the larger the diameter of the pipe for ventilation should be chosen.
• Number and correspondence of channels. In a private house, one air circulation line is rarely enough. It is advisable to equip all channels identically, otherwise they will have different levels traction.
• Pipe insulation. This will allow you to save it from the occurrence and harmful effects of condensation.

It is better to entrust the design of ventilation to professionals, so that the individual conditions of the house are taken into account and the following basic parameters are developed: location of channels, diameter, length and type of pipes.

At an outdoor temperature of 12°C and an indoor temperature of 20-24°C, natural circulation occurs through ventilation ducts. If it is missing, errors were made during channel design or installation.

Do not forget that to ensure the operation of natural ventilation it is necessary to provide normal access fresh air. To do this, you need to regularly ventilate the rooms.

Which is installed on the roof. So, ventilation needs to be arranged: sewerage, room ventilation, attic ventilation, etc. Its manufacture requires compliance with a number of requirements and installation processes. In particular, during work the question may arise about how to insulate a ventilation pipe in a private house and whether it is necessary at all. This is what this article will be devoted to.

Insulation of ventilation. Is it necessary?

First you need to understand whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe, which is located on the roof and attic. Here the answer is obvious, but then another question arises: why insulate it? The reason lies in condensation. If there is no insulation on the pipe, then condensation will form inside the pipe. Accordingly, it will flow down and flow into all the cracks and joints. This leads to the formation of wet spots in the ceiling or wall. And if at the same time on the street severe frost, then the internal diameter of the pipe may decrease due to frost that has appeared.

Why is this phenomenon observed? This is explained by the fact that warm air contains a large amount of moisture. When in winter period he comes into contact with cold pipe, then it cools down. As a result, condensation appears, formed from air vapor. This physical process can only be stopped by insulating the ventilation pipe.

Based on the above, it becomes obvious that it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe in the place where there will be active contact of warm air flow with cold. So, for example, if you have a ventilation pipe leading through the wall, then the section leading to the deflector needs insulation. Also, pipes often pass through the uninsulated attic of a private house. In this place there is also a need for pipe insulation.

Office or industrial premises are equipped with insulated ventilation valve. This device works on the principle of blinds, opening and closing air flows. In such a system it is possible to heat the exhaust air. For this purpose, the valve flaps are heated by a special heating element, due to which the likelihood of condensation is reduced to a minimum.

This method is very expensive, so not everyone can afford to purchase an insulated ventilation valve. Therefore, you will need to find the temperature dew point, i.e. the place where condensation begins to appear.

Below you can see a table that shows how to find where condensation appears:

How to insulate a ventilation pipe

So, it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe in an unheated attic. Now let's look at possible materials that can be used for this purpose. First you need to decide what requirements the selected insulation must meet:

• High thermal insulation characteristics.
• The material used must be fireproof.
• Affordable price.

Unlike all other insulation materials, mineral wool will cost you the least. Plus, it is completely fireproof. But despite this, insulation has a number of negative aspects that are important to consider:

• Difficult installation. The insulation process is quite labor-intensive. First of all, the pipe is wrapped with cotton wool. Next, the second layer is foil or galvanized. Finally, the structure must be tightened with a bandage.
• Harmful to eyes and breathing. When working with mineral wool, you must equip yourself with protective equipment.
• After a while, the cotton wool cakes. This leads to the appearance of gaps between the pipe and the insulation.
• As the humidity level increases, the material loses its thermal insulation qualities.

There is another option using ready-made insulated corrugation, which has 2 layers of aluminum foil sleeve and reinforced steel wire. But for its implementation, ventilation is made from scratch.

Foam plastic

In this case, we mean a ready-made split shell made of polystyrene foam. Unlike mineral wool, it is more convenient to use. But let's take a look at the pros and cons.

Advantages of dense foam shells:

• Simple installation method. The design has a tongue-and-groove connection. The two halves are placed on the pipe and pressed together, forming a tight connection.
• The material provides good thermal insulation. Regardless of changes in humidity levels, it does not lose its characteristics.
• Affordable price.

The main disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability.

When burning, foam releases toxic fumes. Moreover, it will be problematic to use the shell on frequent turns; it is more convenient for it to work on straight sections of the ventilation pipe.

Polyurethane foam and polypropylene foam

This material is similar in appearance to a shell made of dense foam. It’s just that it is made from polyurethane foam or polypropylene foam. What's the difference?

• They have a high price.
• Mechanical strength is much higher.
• During installation it is necessary to use a bandage. Typically, a binding wire is used in this role.

This insulation appears in the form of cut tubes with different sizes and diameter. The installation process of foamed polyethylene is very simple - the material is put on the pipe. Its advantages include:

• Not afraid of high humidity.
• Resistant to mechanical stress.
• The structure of the insulation does not allow rodents to get in.

If you live primarily in a cold climate, then pay attention to other features of this material:

1. Penofol (analogue of polyethylene foam with a layer of aluminum foil). This insulation prevents the accumulation of dust and other contaminants.
2. Self-adhesive insulation (made from polyethylene foam). The presence of a sticky base greatly simplifies its installation. To do this, remove the protective film and press the insulation to the surface of the pipe. If necessary, it can be glued in several layers.

So, this article examined the features of insulating a ventilation pipe on the roof. You also learned about possible options performing this work with various types of insulation. Now the choice is yours. But at the same time, be sure to take into account the requirements for insulation of the ventilation pipe. We and our readers will be interested to know what kind of insulation you used for the ventilation pipe. Leave your comments at the end of this article.

Video

Learn more about the method of insulating a ventilation pipe from the video provided:

To maintain optimal humidity and temperature conditions Insulation of ventilation pipes is necessary. Thermal insulation of ventilation systems prevents the formation of condensation, which entails the gradual destruction of pipes and the loss of their original operational and technical parameters.

External and internal thermal insulation of ventilation pipes

Insulation of exhaust pipes performs the following functions:

• Provides fire resistance and prevents the spread of fire in case of fire.
• Prevents the occurrence of condensation on the external and inner surface pipes.
• Reduces heat transfer between the external environment and the air in the system.
• Reduces vibration and noise generated during air movement.

Insulation of the ventilation pipe can be done from the inside or outside. When internal thermal insulation is required to maintain the necessary bandwidth the air duct to increase its cross-section.

Today, providing sound insulation through thermal insulation material is not relevant, since this problem is often now solved by sound insulation measures at the sound source or by installing mufflers. Therefore, at the moment, the use of external insulation is preferable.

Another circumstance when choosing whether to insulate the ventilation pipe internal way– this is the possibility of the appearance of pockets of bacteria with such a solution, the formation of deposits of dirt and dust, due to which the material may begin to lose its properties. With external insulation, these disadvantages are absent. Insulating the outside of the pipe in the event of a fire significantly reduces the risk of fire spreading.

Materials for insulation of ventilation systems

Thermal insulation of ventilation pipes is made using various materials:

• Mineral fibers. Thermal insulation materials from glass wool or mineral wool are produced in the form of semi-rigid or rigid pipe panels and sections, in the form of a material that can be given the required shape and density by pressing during installation.
• Felt. When installed internally, the rolled felt is protected with fiberglass with surface impregnation. For external use – aluminum reinforced kraft sheet. Pipe sections are used for external cladding with aluminum reinforced protection.
• Elastomer foams are flexible, closed-cell foams. Refers to self-extinguishing materials. This insulation is not susceptible to microorganisms and mold, resistant to vapor permeation and moisture absorption.
• Derivatives of carbohydrate polymerization (polyethylene, polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride). As a rule, they are produced in the form of pipe sections, blocks, plates.

Installation of thermal insulation on ventilation pipes

Expanded polystyrene insulation

Ventilation pipes insulated with polystyrene foam are less susceptible to corrosion, which significantly increases their service life.

To install polystyrene foam shells, you do not need any special skills. To install it:

1. Determine the shell size that is needed.
2. Use a saw or knife to cut the shells.
3. Place the shell parts on the pipe, offset by a few centimeters from each other, and carefully close the side joints.

From ventilation pipes that are insulated with polystyrene foam shells, in case emergency situation They are quite easy to dismantle and just as easy to install back.

Polypropylene and polyurethane foam

These materials have significantly lower thermal conductivity and high fire resistance. Ventilation pipes are insulated with polyurethane foam and polypropylene as follows:

1. Determine the required size.
2. Cut the material into half-cylinders.
3. Provide an allowance for the cover layer.
4. Install half-cylinders on the ventilation pipes.
5. Securely secure the joints using bandages.

Insulation with foamed polyethylene

A ventilation pipe insulated with this material is the most popular today. Foamed polyethylene is a finished shell that completely encloses and insulates the pipes.

To perform thermal insulation of pipes:

1. Take measurements of the material.
2. Separate the insulating shell along a special seam.
3. Attach the casing to the pipe.
4. Using mounting tape or glue, secure the joints and seams of the insulating shells.

For air ducts square section produce foamed polyethylene in rolls (for example, Energoflex Star Duct)

Regardless of how to insulate the exhaust pipe or the location of the thermal insulation material, the main thing is to prevent cold bridges, which reduce the effectiveness of insulation, and to ensure high vapor resistance. For this special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the places where the ducts join the building structures, where there is the greatest likelihood of cold bridges appearing.

Some engineering communications require mandatory ventilation, which is installed on the roof. So, ventilation needs to be arranged: sewerage, room ventilation, attic ventilation, etc. Its manufacture requires compliance with a number of requirements and installation processes. In particular, during work the question may arise about how to insulate a ventilation pipe in a private house and whether it is necessary at all. This is what this article will be devoted to.

Insulation of ventilation. Is it necessary?

First you need to understand whether it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe, which is located on the roof and attic. Here the answer is obvious, but then another question arises: why insulate it? The reason lies in condensation. If there is no insulation on the pipe, then condensation will form inside the pipe. Accordingly, it will flow down and flow into all the cracks and joints. This leads to the formation of wet spots in the ceiling or wall. And if there is severe frost outside, then the internal diameter of the pipe may decrease due to frost that has appeared.

Why is this phenomenon observed? This is explained by the fact that warm air contains a large amount of moisture. When it comes into contact with a cold pipe in winter, it cools down. As a result, condensation appears, formed from air vapor. This physical process can only be stopped by insulating the ventilation pipe.

Where should ventilation be insulated?

Based on the above, it becomes obvious that it is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipe in the place where there will be active contact of the warm air flow with the cold one. So, for example, if you have a ventilation pipe leading through the wall, then the section leading to the deflector needs insulation. Also, pipes often pass through the uninsulated attic of a private house. In this place there is also a need for pipe insulation.

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Independent insulation of ventilation pipes - a whim or an urgent need

Few people now doubt the need to install ventilation systems. But many young owners are perplexed why it is necessary to insulate ventilation pipes in the attic or in other unheated rooms, because this is not plumbing or heating, and there is nothing to freeze there.

However, if you leave this issue without proper attention, you may end up with serious problems over time. In this material I will try to explain the meaning of such insulation and tell you how and with what you can insulate ventilation ducts with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists.

What is the point of insulating ventilation?

The main enemy of any ventilation system is condensation, which is actively formed when warm and cold flows collide. In addition to proper planning of the system itself, insulated pipes for ventilation are one of the main means of preventing moisture loss. I’ll tell you later why this condensation in the ventilation system is so scary.

In fact, the insulation itself is necessary to prevent the occurrence of the so-called dew point. According to the construction standard SP-50.1333-2012, this term refers to the temperature at which water vapor contained in the air precipitates in the form of water on surrounding objects, that is, condenses. Naturally, the dew point directly depends on air humidity; the higher it is, the closer the dew point is to the ambient temperature.

• Let's start with the fact that on an unprotected pipe in the attic floor, condensation can fall out both from the inside and from above the air duct. This moisture is dangerous in its own way in both cases. So the water constantly flowing down the pipe will naturally be absorbed into the ceiling. And here it doesn’t matter whether it’s concrete, wood or any other material, sooner or later it will begin to collapse. Add to this the unpleasant stains around the pipe on the ceiling of the top floor;
• More than half of the ventilation ducts and pipes are now made of galvanized iron. Zinc coating is a good thing, but if it is damaged, which is inevitable when cutting and installing, the thin iron sheet will begin to rust and it will take a little time for holes to appear on the pipe, no more than 2 - 3 years;

• In addition to domestic ventilation, in houses of 2 floors and above it is installed fan ventilation For sewer system. Simply put, this is a continuation of the sewer riser leading to the roof. So, with the extreme humidity that exists in the sewer system, the attic sector of such a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm freezes tightly already at a temperature of -5ºC or -7ºC within a week. And this already entails problems with the operation of the sewerage system;
• In addition to its direct function, insulation for ventilation pipes is a good sound insulator. Having installed such a system, you will not have to listen to the howling of the wind in your pipes;
• But the rotten ceiling, the damaged ceiling, the constant music of the wind, bad smell from the sink and the sewage system frozen in winter are just “little flowers”; the appearance of mold and mildew inside the household ventilation system is much more dangerous. The fact is that such “vegetation” spreads by aerosol; in other words, mold spores are carried by air currents. Naturally, once in ventilation system, they will regularly irrigate the entire house, and the people living in the house will constantly breathe in all this bouquet. The consequences can be very different, from mild malaise to chronic headaches and allergies.

Now weigh the pros and cons and decide for yourself whether you need to insulate the ventilation pipes in your home. I think the answer is obvious and further we will dwell in detail on common materials and methods of their installation.

How and how to insulate ventilation pipes

Installation of a ventilation pipe through a side wall is not so common and in most cases it is not domestic ventilation in its pure form, but a chimney for a heating boiler, but in any case, thermal insulation is installed on such air ducts, starting from the warm room or boiler and to the deflector at the end of the pipe .

As a rule, this is a heat-resistant cocoon made in a factory. As for installing ventilation insulation with your own hands, this type of work is more relevant for attic spaces.

From the mass of various modern thermal insulation materials I have selected a few of the most common options. In general, when choosing, you need to be guided by three main criteria:

1. First of all, this is the lowest possible level of thermal conductivity. With the current range of similar materials on the market, this task is easily accomplished;
2. Second, but no less important criterion is the level fire safety. Everything is more complicated here; not every material meets this requirement. Although, in the end, you are not going to barbecue in your attic, and even next to the pipes. Therefore, small compromises can be made;
3. And finally, about the painful issue, the price of the material. Here I can please you, almost all the most popular materials fit well into the average budget.

Mineral wool and glass wool

Glass wool can be safely called the patriarch of domestic insulation. There are no complaints about the level of thermal insulation here. As for fire safety, even the most meticulous inspector cannot find fault with it. The price of this material will also please you; it is one of the lowest among its competitors. On the market this material presented in the form of soft mats of various types.

• But this, perhaps, is where all the advantages of glass wool end. It is believed that, compared to other materials, the installation instructions for this heat insulator are the most complex, although I personally do not share this opinion;
• Such mats tend to absorb moisture and the worst thing is that after drying they are no longer restored, the coating only needs to be changed;
• But even in absolutely dry rooms, glass wool gradually cakes; in fact, such insulation will have to be changed every 5–7 years;
• Plus, during the installation of such mats you will have to “wrap yourself up” as tightly as possible. In addition to safety glasses, a mask and gloves, it would be a good idea to get a thick overall. The fact is that this material is not called that for nothing; these mats are saturated with many small glass needles and if you work without protective equipment, then you will itch for at least a couple of days.

Not everything is so sad with mineral wool; it is a newer and more advanced representative of this trend. Such mats are dense, durable and resistant to external influences.

They combine all the positive characteristics of glass wool. It is easier to work with mineral wool; overalls are no longer needed. Although this material is still afraid of moisture.

Thermal insulation of high-temperature surfaces (for example, chimneys) is carried out using insulation from a line of mineral materials.

Now let's move on to the issue of installation. As I already said, this is not particularly difficult. Soft glass wool is more suitable for curved and round surfaces. This “blanket” is wrapped around the ventilation pipe. But you can’t leave the glass wool like that; it needs to be additionally wrapped in a layer technical foil or, as a last resort, roofing felt.

And in order for this whole “pie” to hold securely, it needs to be secured on top with some kind of bandage. You can use metal or synthetic packaging tape as a bandage, but it is cheaper and easiest to secure such a cocoon with annealed steel wire, which is used for tying reinforcement.

Mineral wool slabs are denser than glass wool and are more suitable for insulating straight and flat surfaces. It's practically ideal option for arranging thermal insulation of rectangular and square ventilation ducts.

You just need to cut such a slab into segments of the required size, cover the box with them, then wrap it in foil and secure it with bandages. It will be easier to work if you first degrease the pipe with an alcohol-containing solution and plant mineral slabs for liquid nails.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

These two types of insulation have fairly high thermal insulation characteristics. They are durable and absolutely not afraid of moisture. But both of these materials are tough and cannot be wrapped around anything. Therefore for complex surfaces This option is not suitable.

From a fire safety point of view, they are absolutely the same. Both polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam melt easily and burn well, and during combustion they release harmful and toxic compounds. So they cannot be installed in fire hazardous areas or on hot pipes.

As for the differences between polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, both of these insulation materials have the same base. But polystyrene foam is less dense, therefore, not as strong and rigid as polystyrene foam. Although polystyrene foam has one undeniable and important advantage, its price is an order of magnitude lower than that of its competitor.

I believe that if you need inexpensive insulation for ventilation pipes in the attic, then polystyrene foam is a worthy and completely acceptable option. Expanded polystyrene is certainly strong, but in the attic this strength does not play any role, and why pay more if there is practically no point in it.

It is even easier to install foam plastic insulation of pipes for ventilation with your own hands. For round pipes ready-made cocoons are sold. These segments consist of two or four semicircular sectors, which are connected to each other according to the tongue-and-groove principle. They can be covered with foil or go without it; in a dry attic this special significance does not have. The segments on the pipe are laid with a shift according to the principle of brickwork.

You just need to connect them tightly together and tighten them with a bandage. Although in in this case I prefer to use liquid nails or any other glue for installation. Insulation of square and rectangular ventilation ducts with polystyrene foam is carried out according to the same scheme as the installation of mineral mats.

Foamed polyethylene

If you are looking for the simplest and cheap way ventilation insulation, then foamed polyethylene is just for you; in some sources this material is called penofol. By appearance it is similar to regular foam rubber, but with a larger structure. You've probably seen gray foam tubes of different diameters on the market, and this is one of the options for such insulation.

You select a “wrapper” of the appropriate diameter for your pipe. Each braid is already cut lengthwise, so it will be easy to put it on the pipe. In order for the penofol to stick, you need to wrap it in several places with tape and that’s it.

In addition, penofol is sold in the form of a wide sheet up to 10 mm thick. This “blanket” can be used to wrap any non-standard part ventilation duct and at the end secure with construction tape or regular tape. The same canvas can be covered with foil. This material is more expensive, but the thermal insulation effect is much higher.

Recently, another model of foamed polyethylene appeared on the market. It is well suited for ventilation insulation.

This canvas differs from existing options by the presence of a self-adhesive surface on one of the sides. Elementary instructions, removed protective film and stuck it on the ventilation pipe or box. If a thick coating is required, penofol is wrapped in several layers.

A few important points

At the moment, insulation is widespread attic floors with the help of a special construction foam. The pleasure is certainly not cheap, but the effect is very worthy. It is possible to insulate ventilation pipes in this way, but it is better to entrust this to professionals. Because there, in addition to the foam itself, you need special equipment, plus strict adherence to technology.

And there is no need to try to “blow out” the surface of the air duct with ordinary foam, not counting the high cost of this project, polyurethane foam It will last a maximum of a year in the open air, after which it will begin to crumble. After all, this one is convenient building material intended for slightly different purposes.

And you definitely shouldn’t wrap ventilation pipes with old rags and cotton mattresses. Ordinary fabric or cotton wool will gradually become saturated with moisture and there will be practically no benefit from this idea, except that the external condensation will be absorbed into these rags.

Conclusion

As you can see self-insulation ventilation pipes, both in the attic and in any other room, is not something exorbitant. And if desired, a good owner will be able to cope with this task. The photos and videos in this article show options for installing such insulation. If you have anything to add or have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

July 22, 2016

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