In order to lay paving slabs efficiently, it is necessary to properly level the base under the road surface. The service life of the tiles and final result sidewalk construction work.

What should be the base for paving stones?

Preparing the site for installation paving slabs requires compliance with a number of conditions. Basic requirements for the foundation are:

• installation of a drainage cushion to remove accumulated moisture and prevent destruction of paving elements;
• laying a waterproofing layer to prevent the accumulation of excess water;
• arrangement drainage system, as well as drainage channels taking into account the slope of the terrain.

The base must be level to ensure reliable installation of the tile covering.

It is necessary to have a recess to organize drainage and prevent movement of the shaped elements of the paving stones in the event of soil subsidence.

Many people are interested in the question: “Is it possible to lay paving slabs on an old surface?” This possibility depends on two aspects: the condition of the coating itself and its base. If the tiled layer or asphalt is not washed away by water, smooth and without subsidence, paving is carried out without removing the existing coating. In other cases old tiles disassemble and start work from scratch.

How to prepare the base for installation

Materials and tools

Before excavation work, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

• shaped paving elements, curbs;
• pins or stakes made of metal or wood;
• horizontal level;
• a hose with a divider or an ordinary watering can to moisten the underlying layer and base;
• a metal corner, a channel, as well as a rake for leveling the sprinkled area;
• broom.

To mark the area, you will need twine and a garden shovel to remove the top layer of soil and create a trench.

How to prepare the base

Site preparation consists of removing the soil layer in such a way that the final location of the upper level of the base surface is level with the edge of the adjacent soil.

The depth of the land being removed should be such that the surface of the prepared site is 2-4 centimeters lower than the adjacent area.

After completing the excavation work, the bottom of the trench must be properly compacted. If there is fertile soil on top, then it is better not to scatter the soil near the future sidewalk, but to take it to the flower beds.

Soil stabilization and preparation

If the soil layer is fairly level, stabilization work consists of uprooting vegetation, filling holes and compacting. If there are large irregularities on the site, construction equipment - a bulldozer, excavator or scraper - is used to eliminate them. To check how level the site is, modern instrumentation is used: for example, laser level(level).

The next stage is preparing the base for paving the paving slabs. At this stage, a drainage cushion is installed. Sequence of work:

• pour sand into the bottom of the trench;
• compact it, watering it from a watering can or hose, level it;
• pour medium gravel;
• add sand on top to level the crushed stone layer, pour water on it, and compact it.

The thickness of the drainage is 2/3 of the total thickness of the base and is equal to 14-15 centimeters.

After laying the drainage, waterproofing is carried out. A material is spread on the surface that prevents water from penetrating to the top layer.

Geotextiles are considered the best waterproofing material. It is characterized by increased strength and reliable protection against moisture. The material does not decompose or rot.

An alternative option for waterproofing is laying polyethylene film folded in half.

To increase the efficiency of moisture removal, the waterproofing layer should have a slight slope. This fact is taken into account at the stage of drainage arrangement.

Types of underlying layers and their arrangement

The underlying layer is a multi-layer “pie”, for the laying of which various bulk and stone materials. It performs the following functions:

• protects paving elements from destruction in winter due to soil movement;
• visually evens out minor imperfections on the surface.

To select optimal technology organization of the underlying layer, take into account the operating conditions of the tiles and sidewalk path All in all.

When paving stones are used for pedestrian traffic, a sand cushion is used. If cars and trucks will pass through the site, it is advisable to lay the tiles on a monolithic base.

Gartsovka

If the sidewalk has a slight slope, the tiles are mounted on a prism (construction dry mixture). The use of this composition will allow for reliable bonding of paving elements to the base.

The dry laying mixture is a cement-sand or lime-sand mass mixed in different consistencies.

Features of laying trim under tiles:

• the composition is poured onto the finished base in dry form;
• compact and level over the entire area using vibrating plates or tampers;
• Before installing the tiles, the surface of the pad is slightly moistened to improve the quality of adhesion and viscosity.

The garnet layer is suitable for arranging pedestrian paths with minimal mechanical load.

Sand

The installation of a sand cushion will ensure that the paving slabs remain motionless horizontally and vertically. The layer of sand should be 8-10 cm. For light loads on the sidewalk, 5 cm is enough. The sand is compacted and leveled with timber or a plaster rule.

To ensure a smooth sand surface, beacons are installed along the path in an arbitrary number.

Sand can be moistened to improve compaction. This will also ensure the tiles are moisture resistant and durable. The path is paved on a dry sand bed.

Dropout

Screenings are bulk material obtained from processing natural stone. Unlike sand, this composition is characterized by less shrinkage.

Screenings can be poured over crushed stone drainage. Each underlying layer should be 10 cm. Tamping is carried out until there are no traces of shoes left on the surface.

Attention! The total layer of screenings should not be more than 20 cm.

To level the cushion under the paving slabs, use different methods:

• metal guides;
• rule with cut-out grooves;
• wooden lighthouses.

Installing tiles using dropouts is an economical option compared to other methods.

Monolithic base

The essence of the technology is to form a platform from a monolith that is resistant to problematic soil. Such a base will help to evenly distribute the load on the paving stones.

Installing tiles on a monolith base is considered the most expensive method. The technology is used for arranging paths that will be used under conditions of increased loads.

Monolithic base implies two options:

1. Installation of paving elements on asphalt. It is advisable when the asphalt surface has worn out, but dismantling is not carried out. Worn fragments are removed and filled with concrete. The holes are also filled with concrete mortar, and then they begin to arrange the paving stones.
2. Laying paving slabs on concrete. A concrete pad is placed on top of a reinforcing mesh frame. The cell size is 10 by 10 cm. The technology is in demand when laying tile coverings on unstable soils and in places with increased mechanical loads.

Thus, leveling the site for laying paving slabs - important stage when arranging the path. Preparation of the foundation begins with excavation work. Drainage, waterproofing, and soil stabilization are being installed. To ensure stability of the paving stones, a load-bearing layer is laid. Depending on the operating conditions of the sidewalk, a sand cushion, a guard, screening or a monolithic base is chosen as the underlying layer.

Publication date: 05/13/2015

• • Site leveling and embankment construction
• Curbs for finishing the area for paving slabs
• Paving tiles

When constructing any site for paving, it is necessary to ensure a properly prepared base. It is the even base that largely determines the correct installation and decorative appearance. If you do not ensure leveling of the ground, the tile will lie unevenly, its corners will protrude above the surface, and during use, rapid shrinkage and deformation of the entire path are possible, which reduces paving efforts to nothing.

A smooth base is the key to proper installation and aesthetic appearance.

We will find out how to properly prepare the base for paths, what stages of work must be followed.

Preparing the site for paving

In order to properly and efficiently prepare the site for paving with paving slabs, you must first purchase all the required tools and materials:

Use regular twine when marking tiles for a more even layout.

• paving slabs and curbs for them in the calculated quantity;
• wooden or metal stakes and pins;
• ordinary building level(it is necessary to adjust the horizontality of the paving stones);
• a hose with a divider or a regular watering can for moistening the base and sand cushion;
• broom;
• a rake, a metal corner and a channel for leveling the bedding of the base of the paving area.

For marking, you will need an ordinary twine, a shovel and other garden tools to remove the fertile layer of turf, construct a trench for curb stone. Only after all the materials and tools are ready can you begin to work.

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Before paving the tiles, it is necessary to perfectly level the ground surface.

What should be the base for paving slabs? First you need to properly prepare the area. To do this, first mark out the area where the paving stones will be laid. After this, it is necessary to completely remove the fertile layer of soil so that the surface of the paving slabs is not subsequently damaged by germinating plants. This can be done easily using the simplest garden tools: the earth is simply removed to the required depth.

If necessary, the base is added to level the area, since paving is only possible according to ideal conditions. flat surface soil. If the soil is too soft, that is, loads in the future can lead to deformation and severe shrinkage, it is necessary to moisten the soil and then compact it thoroughly.

Further work involves two options:

• base in the form of a layer of cement and reinforcing mesh. It is installed when large loads are planned, there is a possibility of severe shrinkage or spreading of paving slabs;
• a simple base without cement or reinforcement, only on a sand and gravel bed.

Afterwards, it is necessary to fill the gravel with a thickness of 7 cm. Before laying the tiles, the filling must be done strictly according to the level; before further paving of the paths, such an embankment must be carefully compacted and leveled.

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The border is laid at the stage of laying the base for the tiles, and not after the paving stones have already been paved.

Before pouring a sand cushion and laying paving slabs, it is necessary to install curbs. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a trench along the perimeter of the site with a depth depending on the height of the curb stone, at the bottom of which approximately 5 cm of sand is poured. It is necessary to dig such a trench so that approximately 60% of the curb is below the level of the path. This is what will ensure the reliability of the entire installation and prevent the tiles from spreading. Paving in in this case carried out in such a way that the base can withstand not only loads such as steps, but also the entry of a car.

The curb itself can be made from various materials; it is best to make it from the same material as the paving slabs being laid. But granite and other natural stones have a high price, although their strength is high. Most often, borders are made from simple or reinforced concrete.

The trenches must be constructed in exact accordance with the dimensions of the curb so that it fits tightly and the base is not disturbed.

We should not forget that the curb is laid at the stage of laying the base for the tiles, and not after the paving stones have already been paved. It is in this case that all work will be carried out efficiently, the path itself will not only be beautiful, but also resistant to many loads, including collisions with vehicles.

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Using a rake, carefully level the sand mound.

The last stage of preparation before paving with paving slabs is pouring a layer consisting of purified, sifted sand. This stage of work is carried out in this way:

• it is necessary to carefully level the previous layer, and then check the horizontalness using a building level;
• Now the sifted sand is poured onto the site in an even layer. Using a stretched level made from ordinary twine, it must be carefully leveled using an ordinary rake. Next, you need to bring the surface to the ideal level, since otherwise the paving slabs or paving stones will not lie so neatly; some of its edges may protrude greatly above the level of the path. Alignment should be done using a regular metal corner or a piece of channel.

After the entire surface is leveled, you need to start moistening the sand cushion. To do this, use a regular watering can (if the surface is small) or garden hose with a sprayer (for large areas) the sand is moistened, but it should not be too wet. Pressure should not be applied when moistening, as the sand will easily wash away. The sand cushion is thus compacted to the required level.

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Each tile element should be compacted using a rubber hammer.

Laying paving slabs is final stage work, its quality largely depends on how correctly all the preparatory work for laying the foundation of the site was carried out. Laying should begin by defining correct angle to start work. Experts recommend starting to do this from the corner closest to the front door of the house, or from the main element of the surrounding landscape.

The paving stones or tiles themselves must be laid, pressing them tightly to the base. Each element is compacted using a wooden block and a rubber hammer. This is done in this way: the tile is laid in its proper place, after which it is necessary to compact it with a rubber hammer, tapping through the block. After the final laying of paving slabs, it should be processed using a vibrating plate so that the finishing material finally falls into place. After this, the surface of the tile will become very even and smooth, and water will no longer accumulate on the path.

When laying, you should not forget about some nuances, for example, how to correctly lay out corners and turns, bends of paths, what ornament to choose. Gaps should be left between individual elements, but with a width of up to 0.8 cm. When purchasing, you should ensure that you have special corner tiles with rounded edges; regular rectangular ones are completely unsuitable here. Finished tiles after installation, it is filled with sand; often for this purpose, special colored sand is used to match the color of the tiles or with contrasting shades. This makes the coating more decorative.

http://youtu.be/RS7Sl-uZs38

When laying paving slabs, it is important to pay great attention to preparing the base, that is, the site where the paving will be carried out. To do this, it is necessary to carefully level the surface and ensure the presence of a gravel and sand cushion. In this case, the tiles will lie flat, the paving itself will not cause any trouble and will take little time.

1stones.ru

Base for paving slabs: preparation stages and materials

Preparing the base for paving slabs is perhaps the most important stage in the entire cycle of work on arranging paths and areas near the house. The quality of the future masonry and the durability of the coating largely depend on how correctly the foundation is made. In order to avoid serious mistakes, you need to consider this process in more detail.

The most important step in laying paving slabs is preparing the base

There are several basic technologies for laying paving slabs. At the same time, the list of preparatory work and materials used depends on the composition of the mixture on which it is planned to lay paving slabs.

The following methods can be distinguished:

• Sand. The tiles are fixed on a sand cushion without auxiliary materials and are fenced with borders for greater reliability.
• Sand-cement mixture. Dry cement is added to the sand and laid on a sand-cement bed. After pouring water, the mass sets.
• Solution. The tiles are laid on a liquid mortar. In order for the masonry to be even, you need to prepare concrete base.

Options for laying paving slabs

Despite the difference in approaches, the initial stages practically do not differ from each other in terms of work technology.

In order for the final result to satisfy you, and the pavement itself not to deteriorate over time, you must comply with some requirements that are mandatory for laying such material. Most of them relate directly to the quality and degree of preparation of the surface itself.

The following basic requirements can be identified:

• Drainage. Removing accumulated water and preventing its destructive effect on the sidewalk.
• Waterproofing. Prevents excessive moisture accumulation through the use of a special substrate.
• Gutter. Water drainage by constructing a slope and special drainage grooves.
• Evenness. The surface must be leveled almost perfectly in order for all the elements to fit properly.
• Sustainability. No movement of individual elements and no deformation during soil subsidence.
• Deepening. You need to dig a hole to arrange drainage and deepen the path itself.

Preparing the foundation is an important step that requires compliance certain rules

The question often arises: is it possible to lay new paving slabs on old tiles or asphalt? The answer depends on the condition of the foundation under the working platform. If there is a risk of ground subsidence, you need to radically rebuild the sidewalk, starting work from scratch. If the old coating has simply outlived its usefulness, and the base remains in good condition, you can install it on top of it. Please note that the track level will increase. This may require additional clearance of adjacent areas.

Gravel bed

The first thing on which paving slabs are subsequently laid is gravel and crushed stone. This is where you need to begin work on arranging the site. First you need to prepare a sufficient recess. In most cases, it is enough to remove a layer of soil up to 25 cm. If you are planning to create a parking lot or driveway to your house, due to the significant load, you can increase the depth by another 10 cm.

The soil is removed in such a way that borders can be secured and drainage laid out. To prevent subsidence, the soil is thoroughly compacted using water. After it dries, you can add gravel. The thickness of the drainage pad should be approximately 2/3 of the total thickness of the sidewalk with the base.

Schematic representation of the base structure for paving slabs

Since crushed stone contains particles of different sizes and shapes, the mass must be vibrated to compact the substrate. This will prevent further shrinkage and make the shock-absorbing cushion more resistant to stress. Sand is additionally used to fill voids. It needs to be spread over the surface and filled with water. Next, the procedure is repeated until it is created level base. Further work should not violate the integrity of the drainage layer.

Water drain and insulation

It is very important to provide the base with protection from water, which can over time wash away some of the material and lead to the destruction of the site. Among the entire list modern materials Geotextiles should be used for laying paving slabs. This material provides reliable waterproofing. It is also used for arranging garden ponds. It does not rot and is highly durable, and it also prevents plants from growing in the joints between the tiles.

In order for the waterproofing to be carried out according to all the rules, and for moisture to not accumulate in the structure of the sidewalk after precipitation, it is important to provide for a slope for water drainage. On average it is 2 degrees per meter of track. You need to plan such a slope at the stage of removing the soil layer, but if you forget about this, the situation can be corrected by laying gravel in a layer of different thicknesses.

To drain water, it is also necessary to additionally provide for the presence of drainage grooves; they are mounted together with the tile itself.

To prevent moisture from accumulating under the tiles, it is necessary to provide a waterproofing layer and water drainage

sand cushion

After the basic work is completed, you can begin to design the final layer. It consists of pure sifted river sand. In order for the sidewalk to be stable, but at the same time maintain shock absorption, you need to fill the sand with a layer of about 7 cm. It is best to navigate by the thickness of the tile itself, because it will be partially buried in it.

Such a thick layer of sand is necessary for the first two laying methods. For the second method, you need to additionally fill about a third of the total layer with a mixture of sand and cement powder. A little more mixture should be left for further processing of the seams.

The base for laying on sand is prepared in several stages. First you need to fill in the dry raw materials and compact them thoroughly. For the best effect, use a vibration installation. Additionally, it is recommended to spray the surface with water to compact the material. It is better to repeat this procedure several times until the desired layer thickness is achieved.

Before laying, it is necessary to level the dried sand. To do this, you can use rules and guidelines. Only after achieving a perfectly flat surface in compliance with the specified slope can you begin installing the sidewalk.

To level the sand layer, guides and rules are used required length

Concrete base

Another installation method is on a mortar. In this case, you need to take care of constructing a reliable concrete foundation. Since the base will take up some space, you need to go deeper into the soil 5-10 cm more than usual.

The initial stage of arranging a site or path essentially coincides completely with the activities already described. However, you do not need to add too thick a layer of sand. Only a couple of centimeters will be enough to fill the voids in the gravel. The remaining space will be filled with concrete mass.

When laying paving slabs on the mortar, it is necessary to prepare a solid concrete base

The solution can be prepared using different methods. The most popular method is to combine sand, cement and fine screenings, as well as adding slaked lime as a plasticizer. It can be replaced with PVA glue or detergent. Concrete must be poured in such a way that it can be leveled using a rule. In order to maintain the contours of the sidewalk, formwork made of wooden boards or plywood is installed on the sides. It is recommended to lubricate it with grease to prevent concrete from sticking.

The tiles can be laid on the subfloor without preliminary screed after drying. Some craftsmen lay the pavement directly on the liquid mass. In this case, you need to ensure that the layer thickness is sufficient to fit the elements.

It is quite difficult to answer unequivocally what exactly is best to lay paving slabs. It all depends on specific conditions and the capabilities of the master. If a large load is not planned, you can get by with sand and cement, but if we're talking about about the parking space, it is best to pre-fill the concrete area.

gidpoplitke.ru

How to make a cushion for paving slabs

The cushion under the paving slabs acts as a reliable base that will support the tiles and protect them from destruction. Making such a pillow is the most important part of the work, on which the effectiveness of the entire installation depends. If you approach this matter carelessly, pits and other irregularities will soon begin to appear on the surface of the tile. Preparing a cushion for paving slabs involves several mandatory steps.

Foundation preparation process

Preparation begins with determining the location for the paving slabs. The area is marked with ropes and pegs so that a path can be laid without deviating from the intended line. The first stage of work is creating a trench. The top layer of soil is removed: if you plan to lay a conventional covering for a pedestrian path, then the thickness of the pad under the paving slabs should be 15-20 cm. If you plan to create a base for the roadway, then its thickness should be at least 50 cm.

Preparing the trench

Creating a cushion for regular paving slabs is done as follows:

• The locations of water drainage are determined. Drainage is mandatory for the home blind area so that moisture does not accumulate near the foundation, which leads to its gradual destruction. In addition, it is advisable to make drains across the paths so that water does not stagnate at the base of the tiles.
• The soil at the site of the future path needs to be leveled, it is advisable to compact it further, then the base will be more dense. The bottom layer of the pillow becomes crushed stone, the thickness of this layer is 13-15 cm. It must be compacted.

Pay attention!!! Crushed stone is the most reliable base that will provide the tile with sufficient support.

Rubble layer

• The next layer is screening, the thickness does not exceed 7 cm. It also needs additional compaction.
• The last layer is sand, which removes excess moisture. It is poured in a thin layer and leveled.

Sand leveling

The resulting base can already be covered with a cement-sand mixture and a tile covering can be laid on it. Curb stones will be installed on the sides of the path or site to prevent erosion and spreading of the coating. For the border, in addition to the standard base of crushed stone and sand, you will need concrete foundation, which will make it as durable as possible and allow it to withstand significant loads. As a result, the border should rise above the base by about 15 cm.

Important points when creating a foundation

Before laying the base, it is advisable to level the soil surface. The holes need to be filled in; in sharply rising areas, the top layer of soil must first be removed. It is difficult to find completely flat areas, so it is rarely possible to do without excavation work. If the soil is too soft, water it before compacting. This will immediately make the base denser, which will have a good effect on the strength of the finished coating. Before backfilling the sand layer, geotextiles can be laid. This simple action will get rid of weeds between the tiles, which quickly destroy the coating with their roots.

trotuaplitka.ru

How to make a base for paving slabs?

The base for paving slabs, like the foundation of a house, is the support on which stability and durability depend road surface. Paving slabs are successfully used for paving paths and platforms. It is found everywhere: both in urban areas (for example, near shops and shopping centers), and in suburban dacha and garden plots. This material differs from analogues in its aesthetics, variety of shapes and sizes.

Base diagram for paving slabs.

But uneven masonry and protruding or sunken tiles are unlikely to make the road beautiful and comfortable. The occurrence of holes, dips and other deformations is a consequence of a low-quality foundation, which was carried out in violation of technology and existing recommendations. Forming the base for paving slabs requires special attention, some knowledge and a basic understanding of the process. Therefore, many owners rush to immediately call specialists, without even trying to handle the matter themselves. This only increases their costs, because the same work can be done independently. The main thing is to know how to do everything right.

Selection of base material

The point of creating a path or platform on a piece of land is to get a smooth, stable surface, free of dirt and grass thickets. It should be comfortable to walk or drive on. The whole secret durable coating without holes and potholes lies in a high-quality base lying under the tile surface. But, before laying the foundation for paving slabs, you should decide on the type building material. A special “cushion” will be formed from it in the future for subsequent laying of the road surface. For these purposes, materials and their combinations are often used, such as:

Scheme of the gravel substrate structure.

• gravel, pebbles;
• concrete, cement;
• sand, screenings;
• slag, crushed stone.

The concrete base is a uniformly poured cement mixture a piece of land on which tile elements are laid on top. This method is used when increased strength and resistance to the impact of massive objects, such as machinery and vehicles, which can exert strong pressure on the plane of the sidewalk are required. On a concrete base it is much easier to level the slabs to the same level. Hardening concrete does not shrink and hides all soil imperfections, including dips and subsidence due to insufficient compaction.

However, this type of foundation is used less frequently than others due to problems with moisture drainage. A layer of concrete, unlike a sand-cement base, prevents water from penetrating through the paving surface into the soil. As a result, moisture accumulates in the gaps between the tiles, cracks and pores. At severe frost, expanding, it can split or deform the paved surface. Therefore for of this type sidewalks should be provided with such methods of drainage as storm drains, moisture inlets, etc. The gravel and sand-cement layers do not need such devices, and the process technology is much simpler and more accessible, which determines its comparative benefit.

Preparatory work

Scheme of the foundation with a concrete screed.

Preparation of the base for paving slabs begins with the arrangement of the site where the work will be carried out. The entire coating structure will be based directly on the soil, which is the most vulnerable layer that creates the most problems. It is because of soil subsidence that deformation of the surface of the tile masonry often occurs, so first of all it is necessary to improve the strength and stability of the ground cover. To do this, you need to mow down all the vegetation, remove debris, and then compact the selected area of ​​land, periodically filling it with water. The soil should become level and dense: this will provide the necessary stability. It is better to cut off excess hills and ledges with a shovel, and fill holes and depressions with earth, slag or crushed stone.

The next stage of preparation is dividing the work site into sections and installing guidelines, called “red marks”. These marks are strands of twine stretched tightly between stakes driven into the soil. The thread is attached at a certain height corresponding to the future level of the sidewalk surface. A slope angle of several degrees should be taken into account if you plan to use water intakes. Red marks are needed to ensure that the slabs are laid as evenly as possible.

You should immediately install fixing curbs along the edges of the site. This can be done after the foundation layer has been formed, but then it will be necessary to construct protective formwork to prevent the soil from crumbling.

It is best to choose a border with a height of about 50 cm, then the sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. Dig a ditch 30 cm deep.
2. Cover the bottom with a layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick.
3. Apply a layer of cement about 2 cm on top.
4. Install curb slabs into the trench. For better drainage, the curb is laid so that its edge is below the level of the paving stone surface.

Formation of the base layer

Preparing the sand surface for tiles.

The base for the tiles can have different configurations. As a rule, the number of layers and types of materials used vary. It is recommended to create two key layers: fundamental and surface. The first layer is created with the aim of creating a flat surface that hides the curvature of the soil. Here you can use two fundamentally different materials: concrete or gravel. Filling with concrete is recommended for roads and areas with increased traffic, and backfilling with gravel is recommended for ordinary sidewalks. If necessary, their combination is allowed.

If gravel is chosen as the foundation, it should be borne in mind that it requires careful compaction. The height of the layer can reach 15 cm or more. This is a fairly significant amount, and compacting such a foundation will be difficult, so it is recommended to lay out the gravel in thin layers in stages, compacting each one in turn. It is most effective to use a vibrating plate - a special road-building device for compacting bulk materials. But in the absence of such tools, you will have to use a manual tamper, and this is a significant disadvantage.

The surface coating of the base is formed from sand or sand-cement grout. Sand is used only if well-compacted gravel is used as the foundation. In other cases, a prancing mixture is prepared from purified sand and M-400 cement in a ratio of 5:1 (it is recommended to use a concrete mixer). The herring layer forms a special corrective cushion for the paving cloth; its thickness ranges from 5-10 cm.

Features of pouring concrete

If concrete has been chosen as the foundation layer, there are a number of recommendations. Concrete filling should begin the day after the cemented curb slabs have hardened. When creating a site on which massive, large-sized vehicles are expected to move, the concrete foundation must be reinforced using reinforcement with cells up to 20 cm. For pedestrian sidewalks, this procedure is not required.

To ensure the free passage of moisture into the soil, drainage holes must be provided. They can be made using a pipe cut into pieces of approximately 20 cm (the length of the piece should correspond to the height of the concrete layer). These pieces are distributed over the entire area (one per square meter).

Then a standard concrete mixture is prepared from grade 150-200 cement. The thickness of the poured mortar must be at least 15 cm, and when reinforced - 20 cm. After hardening, all drainage holes must be filled with crushed stone.

A high-quality base for tiles is the key to the beauty and durability of paved areas and sidewalks.

Now everyone can handle the formation of a base from any material.

Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in a country house perform two functions - aesthetic and utilitarian. The key to high-quality implementation of both is the correct laying of paving slabs.

Many people trust this to professionals, trusting that they know their job. Is this so? Will a hired worker always perform the installation better than the owner himself?

The main thing is to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.

A good help will be step-by-step instructions, which, in addition to the order of work, will reveal all the nuances of this rather simple and fascinating process. Where the result appears with the first tile laid.

Preparation for laying paving slabs

Planning is the key to ensuring that your homemade path will not fail for a long time.

• Site layout. Few people decide to lay out the entire space on the site with tiles, just as it is difficult to do without paths, at least from the gate to the cottage and outbuildings. Ideal option- think over the paths to the house and from it to the main buildings on the site. This way the lawn is preserved, and there is no need to knead the dirt when it rains. In addition, you will not have to uproot trees and other perennial plantings.

• Material selection. Paving slabs are gradually gaining ground over other types of paving. The main advantages: ease of operation, the ability to dismantle the coating, does not “float” like asphalt when heated, does not burst from the cold (frost-resistant), and does not require maintenance. A path lined with paving slabs allows moisture to pass through, thereby not harming the soil (environmentally friendly).

• Tile. When choosing a tile, you need to know that according to the manufacturing method, it can be vibrocast (possibly self-production) and vibration-pressed (made in industrial conditions). Varies in color, thickness and shape. Requires a base of different composition. All these factors determine the technology for laying paving slabs.

Tile covering of paths and platforms - parameters

A comparative analysis of tiled paving is provided in the table

The type of soil also influences the choice of base for paving slabs. Movable soil requires the construction of a concrete foundation even for a pedestrian path, while dense soil allows you to get by with a sand-cement cushion even under a car.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

General tips and rules on how to lay paving slabs correctly:

• provide drains for water drainage. If paving slabs are laid on sand, then water will go into the gaps between the tiles, and if on a concrete base, then a transverse, longitudinal or transverse-longitudinal slope is required. Thus, water, rain or melt, will not collect between the concrete and the tiles. Consequently, the possibility of swelling of sections of the track is eliminated. Optimal slope paving slabs 1 cm by 1 meter. Please note: the gap for water drainage should be located between the curb and the tile surface;

• correlate the size of the tiles with the dimensions allocated for the path. The wider the path, the larger the tiled elements should be (subjective opinion), or vice versa, from small tiles. It would seem that large tiles will make the layout quicker and simpler, but in reality, it may turn out differently. The large dimensions of the tiles are directly reflected in the weight; the weight of paving slabs 40x40 cm is 15-16 kg (depending on thickness). As a result, such slabs are difficult to lift, move, or level. While you adjust the height, you will have to lift the weight several times to add sand;

• lay (bring up) communications before laying paving slabs. Otherwise, it will need to be dismantled and reassembled. If there is no need for communications yet, then conditions can be created for their installation later. To do this, it is recommended to lay plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm under the path in the most likely places where future communications will pass;

• Installation of paving slabs is not carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation. The soil and the laid cushion must dry out. Optimal humidity of the base ensures that the tiles will not spread over time;

• the base for laying paving slabs must be perfectly level. The sand used for backfilling should not contain clay or other impurities;

• choose the optimal track size. It is reasonable to select the width of the path based on the size of the paving slabs, plus a value equal to the sum of the gaps between them. In this way, it will be possible to avoid labor-intensive and not always beautiful cutting of tiles. The same applies to patterned layout. However, this approach is only possible when laying tiles with the correct geometry. The use of imitation natural stone, a circular pattern, and complex geometry does not always make it possible to do without cutting. In this case, you need to think about the exact location of individual whole and trimmed elements.

Stage 1 - Layout of paving slabs - diagrams, patterns, drawings

To create a beautiful tile path, you need to make the right sketch. A drawing or diagram of laying paving slabs will help not only to visualize the project, but also to calculate the required amount of material.

The choice of laying scheme is influenced by the shape (geometry) of the tiles (see photo) and the planned layout design.

Considerable room for maneuver is created by the use of rectangular paving slabs, with standard sizes 100x200 mm, “paving stones” or “brick” type. They give greatest number styling options.

Traditional options for laying paving slabs:

1. Geometric styling. Can be represented by colored canvases or illusions.

By playing with colors and tile layout you can create unique design garden paths. Examples in the photo (rhombus, square, circle, new and old town, parquet, checkerboard, fan, coil, butterfly, wedge sheet, hexagon or honeycomb).

2. 3D illusions - paving slabs with a 3D effect. Laying tiles with a pattern that creates a three-dimensional stereoscopic (three-dimensional) image is a clever technology for deceiving the eye.

An example of which is provided below, does not have a diagram in the classical sense. Involves laying out tiles in artistic disorder. If the tiles are monochromatic, then the size of the tiles varies during laying; if they are multi-colored, the colors vary.

4. Artistic laying of paving slabs, the photo of which is provided below, gives an idea of ​​the variety of different styling options. The complexity of the design is determined by the skill or perseverance of the artist.

Stage 2 - Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs

For work you will need: sand, cement, tiles, curb. The following tools will be useful: nylon thread, pegs, rubber hammer, long rule, level, tamper, trowel, broom. In case of trimming, you need a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. Knee pads are a handy thing, because work takes a lot of time with an emphasis on these parts of the body.

Stage 3 - Marking for laying paving slabs

Marking the site consists of determining the contour of the future path. The area around the entire perimeter is marked with pegs, between which a nylon thread is stretched. Due to the fact that it serves as a guide for laying out the tiles, it must be pulled strictly level.

Stage 4 - preparing the base for paving slabs

To install the base, you need to remove the top layer of turf, level the bed, pour water and compact it using a tamper. Dense soil does not require such work. There are stones, roots of trees and shrubs in the soil - all this should be removed.

Note. You can leave the soil, but then the path will be much higher than the rest of the cover on the site, which can lead to it being washed away by melt or rain water.

The resulting bed is covered with a drainage bearing layer, for example, crushed stone or gravel 150-200 mm high. For a car path (platform), the layer thickness increases to 400 mm. Many people place geotextiles under the gravel and on it to eliminate the possibility of the cushion being washed away by groundwater. 20 mm is poured on top of crushed stone. sand to level the base.

Stage 5 - Technology for laying paving slabs

Step by step instructions

1. Installing a curb for paving slabs or curbs

The purpose of the curb stone is to mark the path and protect the tiles from spreading. But there are examples of laying paving slabs without a border.

The curb is installed on a leveled base. For greater reliability, it is laid on a concrete base (concrete castle).

You can install a plastic border for tiles

The border can be installed flush with the tiles or protrude by a few cm. It is recommended to lay the tiles just above the curb (curb) by 5 mm, this is a gap for shrinkage.

There are three types of base:

Laying paving slabs on sand.

In this case, the distance between the curbs (or the tensioned thread if they are absent) is filled with sand. The height of the sand layer is 50-60 mm. Before work, the sand is watered with water using a spray bottle and left to dry a little. Next, it is leveled and compacted. The laying is done on moist, but not wet sand.

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On the base prepared at the fifth stage, a second layer of sand (30-40 mm) is laid, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. The mesh is covered on top with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1:4.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base.

The composition of the “pie” is shown in the diagram.

Note. Laying tiles on concrete is not best option. This is due to the fact that the concrete base does not allow moisture to pass through. Water gets trapped between concrete and tiles and at sub-zero temperatures leads to deformation of the path.

3. Laying tiles

Simple rules for high-quality and efficient work.

How to lay paving slabs correctly:

• the tiles are laid from the lowest point upward;

• The masonry is carried out using the manual method. That is, when performing work, the master moves along an already laid path so as not to damage the compacted and leveled base;

• Installation of tiles in a circular manner begins from the center of the pattern.

• the beginning of installation occurs at the optically visible boundary, i.e. to the place where the eye first falls: front door, porch, veranda, gazebo, etc.

• The tiles are not laid out in even rows, but diagonally. This makes it easier to align horizontally.

When starting to lay, the first thing to do is pull the cord across the width of the path, and level the first row of tiles along it. The horizontal line should be checked with a level every 2-3 rows.

"Planting" paving slabs The tiles are placed in the intended place and installed accurately by lightly tapping them with a rubber hammer. If a tile falls through, add sand or a mixture underneath it.

The gap between paving slabs is usually 2-3 mm (enough for water to escape). Exact gaps are maintained using crosses (but, this is a theory, it does not occur in practice).

Some manufacturers have provided limiters (distance locks) on the tiles, allowing them to be laid at the same distance from each other without the use of additional devices.

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Appeared new technology- paving slabs that glow in the dark. Installing such tiles will mark the boundaries and make it safer to move along the path at night. Glowing paint It is applied over tiles and is absolutely safe for users and the soil.

Another option for decorative path lighting is LED paving slabs. In this case, during the installation process, brick blocks are installed - LED lamps powered by electricity or solar panels.

Stage 6 - Grouting the joints of paving slabs

In addition to understanding how to lay paving slabs, you need to know how to seal the seams. Filling the seams between paving slabs is done in two approaches. To begin with, pour a thin layer of clean, sifted, dry sand onto the laid tiles. Using a broom or brush, the backfill is swept between the seams. Then a layer of sand (if the base is sandy) or a sand-cement mixture in a 1:1 ratio (for a cement-sand or concrete base) is poured onto the path and the seams are also filled (spilled) using a broom.

You can purchase a ready-made dry mixture for filling the joints of paving slabs: M150 (120 rubles/25 kg) and Quick-mix PFN (1650 rubles/25 kg).

At the end of the work, the path is watered with water using a sprayer. Watering is carried out until puddles form on the path.

Important. The distance between the curb and the tiles is not concreted, and is also filled with dry mixture.

Note. Professionals advise vibrating the seams with a special board, but users argue that in private construction this is unnecessary.

Caring for paving slabs

It is not enough to know how to lay paving slabs; you also need to provide them with constant care so that they last the estimated period. Simple maintenance consists of periodically sweeping and washing the paving slab path (in order to colored tiles remained just as beautiful). In winter, you should not use metal shovels to clear snow, and do not use crowbars or ice axes to remove ice, and also sprinkle the path with anti-ice compounds containing salt.

Water repellent for paving slabs

The porous structure of concrete acts like a sponge - it absorbs water. Hygroscopicity plays its detrimental role precisely in winter, when water penetrates the pores of concrete, freezes, expands and destroys the structure of the concrete base. As a result, the appearance of microcracks, dents, cavities, and color changes.

To prevent this, use protective impregnations- water repellents for paving slabs

Water-repellent compounds (materials, additives, liquids) do not protect the tiles from fading in the sun and abrasion, but only saturate the surface of the concrete and thereby prevent “saturation” with water (provide water-repellent properties).

Many owners of private houses are interested in how to lay paving slabs. This finishing material is now very popular for decorating local areas. Paving slabs allow you to create not only ordinary masonry, but also a kind of multi-colored mosaic of elements irregular shape.

The main advantages of paving slabs

Not everyone knows how to lay paving slabs correctly. After all, this is a relatively new material. However, paving slabs have already become more in demand than the well-known paving stones.

Among the main advantages of paving slabs are the following properties:

• low cost;
• simple installation technology;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• resistance to aggressive environmental influences;
• variety of shapes and colors;
• the ability to create bright and original elements landscape design.

To lay a path or area with paving slabs yourself, you do not need any special technical skills or knowledge, only the ability to handle ordinary tools. If you follow the procedure exactly during the installation process and try a little, everything will definitely work out.

How to choose a tile

Thick tiles (more than 60mm) can support the weight of a full truck. These tiles are usually in the form of small bars. This gives the cladding additional strength.

It’s not difficult to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly. The main condition for a novice master is to choose a small area for his first experiments. Best fit garden path. It is better to choose one-color, square or rectangular tiles.

Marking the site and preparing the base

First you need to calculate the area of ​​the path or site. It is calculated according to required quantity tiles You need to purchase material with a reserve of 10-15% in case of damage to the material. In order not to make mistakes when making calculations, you can draw a plan of the future site. This will make it easier to carry out the necessary calculations and calculations.

Curbs are required along the edges of the path. This will help maintain the integrity of the structure. The border should be several times thicker than the selected tile. It is necessary to lay tiles only on a properly prepared base; not only the appearance, but also the strength of the structure depends on this.

The correct base for paving slabs

To fulfill all necessary work The following tools will be required:

• shovels - shovel and bayonet;
• grinder saw;
• spatulas;
• rule;
• building level;
• roulette;
• rubber mallet or mallet;
• twine or cord, scaffolding;
• trowel;
• rake;
• container for preparing the mixture.

First you need to outline the location of the path or site. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground on both sides of the route. A cord or twine is tied to them. You need to walk along the marked area different directions to determine the correct marking and optimal location of the site or path. The markings can be adjusted during operation.

Drainage system

The technology for laying paving slabs with your own hands requires drainage work. On clayey, swampy soil with a high location groundwater internal drainage is required. To do this, during the excavation process, the required slope is formed, and drainage pipes for water drainage.

On dry soil, it is enough to arrange external drainage. To do this, paving slabs are laid on the path with a slope of 2 or 3° towards the curb. Some water will seep through the seams between the tiles.

Construction of the foundation

You need to dig a ditch under the foundation. Top layer the soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. Remains of vegetation must be removed. The bottom must be leveled and compacted. If the soil is very weak, a concrete screed is laid under the future paving slab structure. This will strengthen the base and ensure the longevity of the path or area.

Concrete reinforced base under paving slabs

Then the curbs are installed. A cushion of fine-grained (10-20) crushed stone or gravel is poured between them. Bulk material needs to be leveled and compacted a little.

Curbs on both sides of the path must be installed parallel. The internal space between them should accommodate the required number of tiles. In this case, it is necessary to take into account mounting clearances of 2-3 mm. Then a solution is prepared for concreting the curbs. Cement grade M300 or higher and sifted sand are taken. Proportion 1:2.

The gravel pad at the bottom of the trench is filled with coarse wet sand, which must be leveled. The thickness of the sand cushion after compacting the sand should be at least 3-5 cm. To control from the top edge of the curb downwards, you need to measure 1.5 times the thickness of the tile.

Tiles are laid on top. If its position exceeds the desired level by 1 cm, the sand can be compacted. To do this, the finished pillow must be moistened generously and left for several hours. Pack tightly. After a day, you can begin laying the tiles. The main thing is that the concrete poured under the curbs is completely hardened.

Laying tiles on sand and crushed stone

The tiles are laid in clear, dry weather. Wind, rain, and dampness make the installation process difficult and can worsen the result, especially if the master does not yet have the necessary skills. The path is laid out in the direction away from you; you cannot stand on the sand and gravel pad while working.

Before laying paving slabs with your own hands, you need to prepare the installation mixture. For it, take dry sifted fine sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1 or a ready-made composition purchased at a building materials store.

Laying tiles on cement sand mixture

So that the path can be dismantled later, the tiles must be laid only on sand. The dry mixture or sand is poured to a thickness of no more than 4 cm; the pillow needs to be leveled. When backfilling, you can use guides made of reinforcing rods, tubes, etc. The mixture is distributed over the working surface with a trowel or rake and leveled using a rule.

If the path is narrow, sand is poured between the curbs and leveled with a trowel. Using a level you need to create a drainage slope. While working, the master moves along the length of the path, holding a bucket of sand and tools at hand. On a wide path, the dry mixture is poured along the beacons. The height of the beacons is reduced by 1 cm every meter of the width of the future path to ensure water drainage.

Aligning the base with beacons

You need to pour sand on top of the finished masonry and use a hard mop to grout the laid surface. Instead of sand, you can use special grouting compounds. The procedure for working with them is indicated on the packaging.

Laying tiles on a concrete base

Preparatory work for laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out in the same way. First, the tiles are laid on a work surface covered with sand.

To prepare the solution, use M500 cement. It must be diluted with water to the required consistency. It is better to mix the solution with an electric drill or a construction mixer. Gradually add sand to the mixture of water and cement. It should be 4 times more than dry cement.

When laying on concrete, a strict sequence must be observed. The tiles are removed one by one from the sand cushion. You need to remove 4 elements of preliminary masonry at a time. The solution is applied to the vacant area. It needs to be evenly distributed. Having laid the tiles on top of the mortar, it is necessary to trim and lightly press down with a mallet. When laying, special wooden spacers are installed between the tiles to obtain the required gap. When the entire path or area has been laid out, the remaining mortar must be removed from the surface.

Some rules for laying tiles

In order for the laid material to be smooth and beautiful along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to lay out the initial row of tiles especially carefully. You need to stretch the line across the path, maintaining a drainage slope towards the curb. The first tile is installed 0.5 cm from the curb. In the longitudinal direction, laying is controlled by a level.

On the path, the tiles are laid diagonally and compacted with a mallet. Between the elements you need to leave a gap of 2 mm. The laid out row must be carefully inspected and all errors must be corrected immediately. Usually it is enough to adjust the amount of sand under protruding or sinking elements. An evenly laid initial row is the key to ensuring that the entire path will turn out neat and beautiful.

Tamping will speed up the work of laying paving slabs

If the masonry is supposed to contain partial tiles, they should be laid out last. To correctly mark the cutting line, the tile must be attached to the installation site. A hacksaw is suitable for cutting tiles, but the work will go very slowly. Therefore, you need to cut paving slabs with a grinder. A diamond disc is installed on it. You can use a special knife. You need to wear safety glasses when working.

Sealing seams and cracks

When the installation of paving slabs is completed, it is necessary to seal small cracks. To do this, you need to prepare a cement solution with a high content liquid glass. This will make the structure resistant to aggressive environmental influences. A mixture of sand and cement or sand is poured into the assembly joints between the individual elements.

Sand for filling cracks and assembly seams Only clean ones can be used. A small amount of organic elements or salts will subsequently lead to the appearance of small flora on the paved area. Plants will spoil the appearance of the structure and reduce its strength.

Sand is compacted using a hose with a narrow spray nozzle. The procedure must be repeated several times. Bulk material is added each time. The density of filling the assembly joints will ensure the strength and durability of the entire masonry.

Options for laying paving slabs

Paving slabs allow you to create various shapes and patterns on local area. Can be used ready-made diagrams laying or come up with your own version of the design of the path or site.

The most common options for laying paving slabs:

• herringbone;
• network;
• chessboard;
• random mix;
• circular pattern.

Using colorful elements different shapes By alternating installation options, you can create interesting compositions based on the principle of regular mosaics or puzzles.

Geometric laying of paving slabs

It is better to perform figured masonry first in an area near the work site. This will allow you to correct individual errors or change something in advance. When work surface will be ready, the tiles are gradually transferred to it and laid in the required order.

To tile a round area, you need to make a primitive compass from wooden slats with pointed ends. With its help, a circle is drawn on the prepared area on top of the sand cushion. Next, the tiles are laid from the outer edge to the center of the site.

Use and care

A freshly laid paving slab path will be ready for use 2-3 days after all work is completed. To remove dust and debris, the path is usually swept with a broom and washed with a stream of water from a hose. Deep patterns with bright colors need to be cleaned more often and more carefully than regular masonry.

The sand placed in the tile joints is gradually washed away as the path or platform is used. Therefore, it needs to be topped up as needed. Damaged structural elements (for example, cracked tiles) are easily replaced with new ones.

Paving slabs are not resistant to mechanical stress, so they cannot be cleaned with abrasive powder. It is better to use sifted river sand.

Do not use strong chemicals to remove stains. A weak soap solution is sufficient. It is applied with a soft brush and then washed off with water from a hose.

In winter, snow and ice must be carefully removed without using metal tools. Can be used with rubber tip. This will preserve the decorative tiles. To prevent the path from being slippery, it should be sprinkled with regular clean sand.

If you intend to build a house or other structure (for example, a bathhouse) on a plot of land, you will need to level the soil surface. The leveling procedure is a responsible and mandatory event, since the construction of the foundation requires a fairly flat ground surface. Below we describe how to level the site for the foundation and other features of the preparatory work.

Before you start building a foundation, it is necessary to level the area on which it will be built, since if this is not done, then the foundation, and subsequently the entire house, will be crooked.

Site cleaning

The first step is to carry out general cleaning of the area, that is, thoroughly clean the soil surface of various debris. Next, existing trees, shrubs and their root systems are removed. If there are long-lived trees on the site - old trees of large diameter - then it is better to place the foundation in another suitable place, since cutting down trees of this scale takes a lot of time and effort. The next action will be to remove the top fertile layer of soil. The thickness of the cut layer varies from 10 to 30 cm, this value depends on the soil on the site, or more precisely its type (clayey, peat, etc.). You will still need this layer of earth, so you shouldn’t get rid of it. During construction, it will be possible to fill the foundation, or rather the space inside it, with earth, or use it to renew the flattened soil surface around the house. So that the turf does not interfere with the construction work, it is laid in the corner of the site or immediately at the place where the construction of a vegetable garden (garden) is planned.

And now more about several types of soil:

• for example, clay soil. The presence of such soil on the construction site implies the installation of a separate sand and gravel cushion;
• Loamy soil and sandy loam also require the arrangement of an additional layer (cushion). And if, after cutting the turf, you find sandy soil with medium or large grains (or small stones), then an additional sand layer will not be required. This type of soil is suitable for constructing a foundation without additional processing;
• The most difficult and financially expensive soil is peat or silty soil. Such a base is not suitable for constructing a foundation. It needs to be completely updated.

In this case, it is best to seek help from specialists. They have the capabilities to conduct a geological examination of the soil, and then decide what composition is needed to ensure that the foundation of your house is reliable and safe. Another important factor is the depth of soil freezing in the area. The depth of the foundation being built will depend on its value. The average value characteristic of a given area is taken as a basis.

Tools and materials

When carrying out work related to the arrangement of the foundation, a wide variety of tools and materials are used:

• shovel;
• rake;
• tractor (if any);
• chainsaw;
• level;
• level;
• construction wheelbarrow;
• sledgehammer;
• lacing;
• cultivator;
• and others that may be required during work (for example, the same tape measure, gas drill or hammer).

Alignment methods

So, let's return to the preparatory work preceding the construction of the foundation. After the future construction site has been cleared, it must be leveled. To do this, you need to tear down the existing hills, and fill the holes with earth and compact them well. This stage of work allows you to do without the use of a level; it is enough to use a building level with a flat bar screwed to it, the length of which can be from 2 to 3 m.

Level the terrain taking into account the general slope.

Foundation: 1 – formwork for the blind area; 2 – foundation formwork; 3 – spacer boards; 4 – concrete; 5 – formwork racks; 6 – gravel-sand backfill; 7 – special connecting element; 8 – connecting corner; 9 – screws.

Leveling is carried out by moving the soil available on the site, or by filling holes and uneven areas using imported soil. In order to level the construction site, leveling soils such as sand, crushed stone, expanded clay and other options are used. As has already become clear, leveling the site is a necessary procedure; it will greatly facilitate the subsequent marking of the foundation. For leveling, the most appropriate option is to use a tractor with a milling cutter, rake and plow. The use of equipment such as a tractor is only possible on a completely empty area in the absence of trees and structures. If it is not possible to use a tractor, then you can use a motor cultivator. And with great love for physical activity Leveling can be done using your hands and a shovel. Of course, there is no such thing as a perfectly flat surface. land plot. This means that any relief requires a procedure such as leveling.

Construction of the foundation and lower trim: 1 – strip foundation; 2 – base; 3 – roofing felt; 4 – bottom harness; 5 – support columns; 6 – logs; 7 – longitudinal elements of the first crown; 8 – transverse elements of the first crown; 9 – racks door frames; 10 – anchor; 11 – sand cushion; 12 – formwork boards; 13 – overlay; 14 – support stake; 15 – spacer; 16 – strut; 17 – vestibule; 18 – dowel; 19 – groove for fastening the partition; 20 – through groove.

One of the alignment methods involves using a level. A level is a special geodetic instrument that is used to geometrically level the soil surface. Simply put, its use helps calculate the difference in height between points on a surface. Before you start leveling a site with a rather complex relief surface, you need to decide whether it is worth it or not, since in order to save time and money needed for excavation work, you can simply change the layout of the site. On the existing hill it is possible to build an alpine slide, and in a natural depression to make a swimming pool, naturally, placing the house in another place on the site (more level). You can find other options that eliminate labor-intensive excavation work for leveling, but in the absence of a level area for the location of the house, leveling is the only way out. There are several main types of leveling. These include:

• geometric leveling. The method is one of the simplest and most accurate, but it is not suitable when there are sudden changes terrain;
• trigonometric leveling. The convenience of this method lies in the ability to determine any elevation between points from one station if the points have mutual visibility. The disadvantage of this method is the inaccurate value of the influence of vertical angles and the deviation of the plumb line;
• hydrostatic leveling. This method is quite accurate and simple; it can be used to determine the existing excess between points even in the absence of mutual visibility.

You can carry out leveling yourself or seek professional help. In any case, the result will be a determination of the excesses existing between points on the earth's surface. Now you can level the site, remove excess soil and add soil in the required places. For the leveling procedure, you can use a factory-made device, as well as one you make yourself. If there is a sharp slope to one side of the site, horizontal leveling is replaced by the terracing procedure. This method will help save time and finances necessary to carry out the excavation work.

Territory marking

Before equipping the foundation, it is necessary to mark it in accordance with the dimensions indicated in the plan (drawing). To mark, you can use small reinforcement parts, the cross-section of which corresponds to 10 mm, and fishing line. The use of fishing line for marking is the most acceptable option, since it does not stretch and is not subject to sagging, and its characteristics are not affected temperature conditions. Most often, one of two existing markup options is used. This is a marking carried out according to the dimensions of the foundation walls and markings with an indentation (5 cm) on both sides of the foundation. The latter option is more convenient in terms of performing earthworks: it allows you not to affect the markings. First, you need to mark the perimeter, after which the prepared reinforcement is driven into the ground and the corners of the planned foundation are checked. In order to align the corners, it is necessary to measure the diagonals of the future foundation. If their sizes match, the angles correspond to the desired value of 90°. If the dimensions of the diagonals do not match, it is necessary to make adjustments to the markings. After which the fishing line is stretched along the outside of the marking. Now you can outline the inner boundary of the foundation. To do this, we retreat from the outer border to the required distance and mark internal borders. In the same way we mark the internal partitions. After the foundation is marked and its depth is determined, you can begin to sample the soil and its further placement. Depending on what foundation you have chosen, or rather what type of foundation, you may need a tool such as a gas drill or garden auger (if you are installing a columnar foundation), a shovel or an excavator (if your choice is a strip or slab foundation). Useful advice: Do not place excess soil in internal space buildings. This is due to the difficulty of removing it at a later stage of construction work. Inside the future foundation, it is necessary to remove the entire top soil layer along with the grass and other vegetation on it.

Trench for the foundation

There are two options to dig a trench under the foundation: use the manual method and a shovel, or hire special equipment - a hydraulic excavator. The choice depends on your financial capabilities and the characteristics of the foundation.

• Before you dig a trench, mark the trench boundary lines on the soil surface. It is also necessary to provide a place for placing soil;
• When digging a trench in the immediate vicinity of a house, pay attention to how these actions may affect the structural rigidity of the house. Make sure that when constructing a trench you will not damage the foundation of an existing building on the site;
• To transport soil from a trench, you can use a construction wheelbarrow - this is the most convenient option, which does not require much effort.

The bottom of the trench, which is intended for constructing a foundation, must be carefully leveled. To do this, you can use a building level (laser). Now regarding the installation of a pillow under the foundation. It performs the function of reducing the degree of load on the foundation. Her upper part is leveled in the same way as the bottom of the trench - using a level.

In order to speed up the process of arranging the pillow, it is necessary to stretch the fishing line, indicating its depth, and then begin laying it. When pouring sand into a trench, ensure that the filling is uniform, after which it is necessary to carry out the compaction process. When performing actions aimed at compacting the sand layer, use water, since wet sand practically does not require outside intervention, but compacts itself.