September 28, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Figuring out how to make a partition from plasterboard – even the simplest one – is worth it for any craftsman. The thing is that structures on a metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum plasterboard, have quite acceptable load-bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and if necessary, just as easily dismantled.

An additional advantage of such a solution is its economy: if we need to carry out redevelopment with minimal costs, That better material can't be found. Finally, making partitions from plasterboard is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform the room, dividing it into functional zones.

In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time you need to study it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information, verified from personal experience.

What do you need for work?

Materials

When planning the construction of gypsum plasterboard partitions, we first need to take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profiles for its installation:

1. For cladding, we purchase plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 “Gypsum plasterboard sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms, standard gypsum is used, but when dividing a bathroom into separate bathrooms and toilets, it is better to use moisture-resistant one. Although this material is more expensive, it better resists swelling when moistened.
2. Separately, it is worth mentioning fire-resistant gypsum board (GKLO) and combined option, providing resistance to both moisture and exposure high temperatures(GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of fire, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it is necessary to keep in mind that such sheets also exist!

1. I prefer to make the frame for the partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter we will need a guide profile (PN/UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports - a rack profile (PS/CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.

The guide profile is produced in panels of a standard length of 3 m. With a rack profile, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose in accordance with the ceiling height in the room, since vertical extension of the rack is extremely undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when doing your calculations!

1. Sometimes instead steel profile For the manufacture of the frame, a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic is used. A partition made of bars and plasterboard may be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with a metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically don’t use this option. .

In addition to drywall and frame elements for arranging the partition, we will need other materials:

• hangers and other fasteners for gypsum boards;
• sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
• fasteners (screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
• wooden beam for decorating the doorway;
• perforated corner for decorating the corners of the structure;
• primer for gypsum plasterboard;
• putty on drywall;
• serpyanka tape for gluing seams.

If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with a sound insulator - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials (mats based on mineral fiber and analogues). It is also possible to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable ducts made of non-flammable material, socket boxes and bases for switches.

Tools

To attach the frame to the wall you need concrete drills

On the one hand, the construction of plasterboard partitions does not require the use of special devices, and therefore anyone can cope with this task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with profiles and drywall is still extensive, and without it, work can become seriously complicated.

Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following in hand:

1. A hammer drill with a set of concrete drills.
2. Cordless screwdriver.

We immediately purchase a special bit attachment for gypsum boards, which allows you to tighten the screws exactly to the required depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!

1. Crowns for cutting holes for installing sockets and switches.
2. Shears for metal (if a timber frame is being built, use a wood saw).
3. Roulette.
4. Level.
5. Plumb.
6. Hand tools – hammer, pliers, etc.
7. Painting knife with replaceable blades.
8. Saw for drywall (you can do without it, but it’s more convenient with it).
9. Planer for cleaning the ends of gypsum boards and for cutting seams between individual sheets.
10. Brushes for priming the surface.
11. Spatulas for finishing gypsum board.

It would also be a good idea to think in advance about exactly how we will carry out the cladding. In standard houses or apartments there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling you will have to use a special rack - otherwise it will not be possible to fix the profile and cladding right under the ceiling.

Budgeting information

When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything ourselves, then our budget will be limited only by the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for gypsum plasterboard partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) is different, but the general order of the numbers can be found out from the table I compiled:

Material	Unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Standard plasterboard	sheet 2500x1200x12.5 mm	200 — 250
- moisture resistant	—	250 — 280
- fire resistant	—	300 — 450
Guide profile PN	panel 3000 mm	75 — 300
PS rack profile	panel 3000 – 4000 mm	150 — 350
Perforated corner profile	panel 300 mm	40 — 125
Straight profile hanger	thing	10 -30
Single level connector	thing	10 – 30
Serpyanka ribbon	roll 20m x 50 mm	30 — 60
Sealing tape	roll 20m x 50 mm	200 — 300
Dowel-nail for fastening the profile	200 pieces	320 – 450
Self-tapping screw for gypsum board	1000 pieces	250 – 500
Fugenfuller putty	Packaging 25 kg	350 — 550
Uniloft putty	Packaging 25 kg	1100 — 1500

Installation technology

Marking

So, we’re done with everything we need, now let’s look at how to make partitions strong, even and beautiful. Today, the technology for installing structures with plasterboard sheathing has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in regulatory documents In my work I focus primarily on:

• SP 55-101-2000 “Enclosing structures using plasterboard sheets»;
• SP 163.1325800.2014 “Structures using plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheets, design and installation rules”;
• VSN 27-95 “Instructions for installation technology and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on a metal frame element-by-element assembly"etc.

In addition, it is worth considering the rules when working fire safety(SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).

We start work with markings:

1. We clear the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle everything finishing materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on load-bearing surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
2. On one wall we set the distance we need twice: once along the floor, the second time along the ceiling. We connect the resulting points, controlling the verticality of the line using a plumb line.

1. We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.

1. We connect the resulting verticals along the floor and ceiling: we should end up with a rectangle, which will form the outline of our partition.

1. In the chosen place we mark the boundaries of the passage. If you plan to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need some extra space for the door frame.

Drawing and calculations

After this, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition onto it.

Be sure to indicate the front and back sides of the structure in the drawing. If you do not do this, then there is a risk of blocking a door or other opening from the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!

1. On the drawing we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack profiles. Optimal step profile - 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per standard gypsum board sheet 120 cm wide). It is not advisable to deviate from these figures, since this will increase the material consumption.
2. Based on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles required to construct the frame. It is quite simple to calculate the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round up.
3. With rack profiles everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater standard sheet GKL, i.e. more than 2500 mm.

It is also worth sketching out the layout of the sheets on the drawing. I usually make two patterns - for the front and back sides. This makes it much more convenient to adjust the placement of the sheathing sheets, trying to different sides The joints of the slabs were located on different racks. For example, from the front surface the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the back - on the second, fourth and sixth.

1. When making calculations, you should focus on the configuration of your partition. To determine the material consumption, you can use the above sketch illustrating possible options GKL layouts and frame configuration.

After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even from experienced craftsmen There are defects, and it is better to have an extra sheet of plasterboard and an extra profile panel on hand.

Frame installation

Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work by installing guide profiles:

1. Using scissors, I cut the guide profile panel to fit the width of the room, and then stick sealing tape onto its flat base.

1. I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its edges (usually the front) runs exactly along the marked marking line.

1. Using a hammer drill with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel +5-10 mm.

1. I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is pressed tightly against the metal.
2. I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a conical point - first I hammer the fastener in with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or a screwdriver to tighten it.

IN wooden house It is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, tightening it without pre-drilling - this will be much more reliable.

1. Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.

1. Next I attach the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it plumb. After that, I secure the rack with self-tapping screws from the bottom and top.

The stiffener should point in the direction from which the sheathing begins. I usually attach sheets moving from left to right, so I orient the profile with the stiffeners to the left.

A little about fastening. Some craftsmen, instead of self-tapping screws, use special profile pliers, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment for fixation. I tried it, but this device did not seem particularly convenient to me: perhaps I just need to get used to it.

Another nuance concerns the screw heads. Sometimes (almost always) they interfere with pressing the gypsum board tightly to the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the wrong side). Then, when the gypsum board is sewn on the front side, I unscrew these screws and install the back sheathing. The rigidity of the connection suffers, if at all, only slightly.

I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the horizontal junction of the sheets.

1. A few words should be said about the doorway. The vertical posts along its edges must be strengthened. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden beams, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.

1. I make the door partition (lintel) like this: I cut off a fragment of the rack profile approximately 20 cm larger than the width of the opening. I cut the side edges exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend it on each side along the resulting 10 cm segment. I insert the part between the side posts of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.

1. I make sure to place at least two vertical posts above the door lintel - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.

Now that the frame is ready, we begin the final operations. So, at this stage I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.

GKL sheathing

The instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not complicated. If we have prepared the load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, then the cladding will go smoothly. If you missed something - and this happens even with experienced masters - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.

1. So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut the sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off approximately 5 - 6 cm - this section is usually made with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
2. We cut sheets using a knife or saw. Of course, it is advisable to use a workbench or a durable long table for this, but if that doesn’t work, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cutting area. It is best to cut from both sides: cut through the sheet almost right through, carefully break it, turn it over and cut through the cardboard on the other side. This will make the ends more neat.

1. We apply the gypsum board sheet to the frame so that the distance between the bottom edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for gypsum boards, we fix the sheet to the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is advisable to make an indent from the edge of the sheet of at least 10 - 15 mm.

1. To securely fix the drywall to the profile, it is very important that the screws are tightened correctly. In this case, the cap should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It is to comply with this rule that I recommended above using a special bit with a limiter: a metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the screw any tighter than necessary.

1. Next important aspect– joining of sheets. Edges can only be joined on a rack profile. The significant width of such parts makes adjustment easier (1-2 cm in one direction or another does not play a special role), but sometimes you still have to trim the edges of the plasterboard. When trimming, it is advisable to clean the end with a special plane and immediately cut off its corners by 450 - this will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.

1. When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we tighten the screws on adjacent sheets “staggered”, and lay the drywall panels with the seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, first we place a whole sheet at the bottom and a narrow strip at the top, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment at the bottom, and then a whole sheet up to the ceiling.

1. Having sheathed one side, we move to the other. At this stage, it is convenient to lay heat- and sound-insulating panels into the frame, make holes for socket boxes and switches with wiring connected to them, etc.

1. On the other hand, we carry out the cladding using the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if a joint was fastened “from the front” to one support, then from the inside the joint should fall on the adjacent support.

Finishing of the sheathed structure

After completing the installation of drywall, the interior partition needs to be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. I will tell you below how to do all the operations correctly at this stage.

The whole process can be divided into four tasks:

1. Masking defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
2. Masking the places where screws are attached.
3. Sealing seams between gypsum board sheets.
4. Design of the corners of the structure.

Here it is best to work according to this scheme:

1. First, we check whether the heads of the screws protrude above the plane of the drywall, and if necessary, tighten them. Let's not overdo it!
2. We cut off any peeling cardboard and then carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
3. If we haven’t done this before (very in vain!), we unstitch the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the joined slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.

The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not require additional embroidery. Anyway, I limit myself to one or two passes of coarse sandpaper for better grip.

1. We treat the surface for better adhesion.
2. We prepare a fairly thick putty (or buy ready-made - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).

1. Using putty as a thick glue, we glue the perforated corner profile to all corners, and strips of sickle tape to all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the sickle and the perforated corner. Completely filling all the holes and cavities underneath.
2. We align the corners first on one side, then on the other. Use a square to control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes.

1. We treat flat areas with putty, masking all defects and places where screws are fixed.
2. On final stage We rub all surfaces with an abrasive material. Under decorative plaster Coarse grain is sufficient, but for wallpaper, and even more so for painting, after the initial sanding, it is imperative to do the finishing sanding - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly smooth walls. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down old plaster and completely plaster along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using plasterboard. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to mount something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Attachment to frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. Standard sizes such: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers position thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select ones that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction level (of good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

The PN profile has a standard depth (wall height) of 40 mm, but can be of different widths: 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends the metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided for and there are no unpleasant sounds.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - place it every 60 cm, if small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the same height door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing them inside wooden block.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electrical wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you install the partition in a wooden house or on wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses from non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, the use of plastic corrugated hoses made of non-flammable raw materials is allowed (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's it. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
• apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
• We place a block under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This method of assembling the frame is non-standard, but this does not mean that it is wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

When arranging your home, it often becomes necessary to erect new partitions and interior walls. This could be a full-scale redevelopment, or a desire to split an existing room into two parts or to form rooms in a new building, which is made into a single space. For the construction of new internal partitions plasterboard and metal profiles are used. This material is so convenient and easy to use that it is possible to build plasterboard walls with your own hands without even resorting to anyone’s help. However, despite the above statement, in the process of forming walls from gypsum plasterboard there are many nuances that should be taken into account. This is the only way to achieve a reliable and durable design.

Materials for work

First, let's decide what we need to build a wall from materials and what tools we need to work with.

To ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, a frame should be initially erected. It is executed from metal profile, which is specially designed for drywall and a number of accessories for its installation.

The profile of two main standard sizes is mainly used:

• D – to form the plane on which the drywall (smaller) will be fixed;
• W – for building a general wall frame (larger).

In addition, for each standard size there are profile options such as support (C) and guide (U). The guide option is a simpler version of a U-shaped profile with smooth walls; a support profile is inserted into it at the end. The support profile, in addition to the U-shape, has a special ribbing made by pressing to obtain greater bending rigidity.

As a result:

1. CD – size 60*27 mm main load-bearing element of the frame;
2. UD – size 28*27 mm guide for fastening the CD profile;
3. CW – size 50*50, 50*75, 50*100 mm rack profile for forming a wall frame;
4. UW – size 50*40, 75*40, 100*40 mm guide for CW profile.
5. In addition, there is a UA profile, which is a version of the CW profile with a thicker wall and reinforced.

To build a simple partition with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles are used. For wider walls with communications, the CD and UD profiles are used, and two parallel guides are mounted on each side of the wall at the required distance.

To secure the profile to the frame you will need a straight hanger and a universal connector (crab). You can do without the latter. The elements must be twisted using flea screws with a “drill” tip and self-tapping screws for fastening drywall to metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip (3.5x35 mm). In the course of describing the technology for constructing a plasterboard wall, it will become clear how many screws of each type are needed. To secure the entire frame to the main walls, you will need plastic dowels with impact screws.

Plasterboard sheets for wall construction are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, always with a wide chamfer on the sides. If the wall is formed in the kitchen or bathroom, then moisture-resistant gypsum board is selected. You can distinguish them by color, because the moisture-resistant sheet is green, the regular sheet is gray.

As a result, you will need to build a wall:

plasterboard, CD, UD, CW, UW profile, wooden beam or AU profile, screws, dowels, sealing tape, mineral wool, metal corner.

If you do not fully understand the specifics of the types of profiles, read about their designations and differences.

Tools

You will need the following set of tools and measuring instruments:

1. roulette;
2. level (80cm, 120cm), rule;
3. plumb line;
4. fishing line, rope;
5. screwdriver or drill with reverse;
6. perforator;
7. metal scissors;
8. construction knife;
9. drywall float.

Beginning the formation of a plasterboard wall frame

So, with the assignment of profiles and the choice of tools completed, you can begin planning and placing the future wall. The floor and adjacent walls to which it will be fixed new wall, must be at the stage immediately before finishing, that is, the floor is level with a screed, the walls are plastered. For example, consider the formation of a wall from the UW, CW profile. On the floor we mark the placement of the future wall. The following points are taken into account:

• Almost nowhere can you find perfectly right angles between walls in rooms. This is especially true for old buildings. The distance between them at different ends may differ by several centimeters. When marking a new plasterboard wall you should take this into account and tie not to one wall, but to both, which run parallel. In this case, the distances are averaged. This way you can avoid the visual curvature of the resulting room.
• If, in addition to the construction of the wall, all walls are sheathed with plasterboard, then first the frame or at least the marking of the sheathing is laid out so as to create the most right angles, and after that you can only begin to build the wall.
• When outlining the first line of the wall, it is taken into account that the guide profile will be aligned along it, and not the resulting wall. The thickness of the plasterboard, a layer of putty and finishing will be added to this mark.

Having decided on the first line on the floor, you can transfer it to the ceiling and walls. A plumb line is used for this. If you can use a laser level, this will greatly simplify the task.

Important:All profiles that are attached directly to the floor, ceiling and existing walls, mounted using sealing tape between it and the supporting surface. The first to be fixed are the UW profile guides to the floor and ceiling. They are secured with dowels and impact screws every half meter and along the edges.

Support posts made of CW profile are attached to the edges of the guides. Also, racks are installed in places where a door or window opening will be formed, which are necessary during construction interior wall from plasterboard. It is best to secure the profiles first to the bottom rail. Then it is threaded into the upper guide and installed strictly vertically in level. Only after this is it fixed to the upper guide. When positioning these profiles, allowance is made for covering strips of plasterboard over the profile. The profiles are installed with the front side facing into the opening. The racks are secured to the guides using flea screws.

The structure of a plasterboard partition.

Support profiles around the perimeter of door and window openings it is necessary to strengthen it with wooden blocks, which are inserted inside the profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The bar is selected according to the width of the profile. If an AU profile is used, then you can do without bars.

The next step begins the installation of vertical CW support profiles along the entire length of the frame. The first profile from the adjacent wall is installed at a distance of 550 mm, all subsequent ones are strictly at a distance of 600 mm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each profile. The vertical installation of the profiles must be checked.

In order to mark the top of the doorway and the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW guide profile is used. A piece of profile is cut 30 cm larger than the width of the opening. On the front side, on the bend of the side bends of the profile, marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. The distance between the marks is equal to the width of the opening. The profile sides are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the edge of the profile to the mark and to the base of the profile. After this, the edges of the profile are bent, and a U-shaped structure is obtained.

The resulting blank is placed with its bent edges onto the posts on the sides of the opening and raised to the required height. It is secured using self-tapping screws, which screw the edges of the profile to the posts. The resulting oblique ears, which formed on the main horizontal part of the workpiece, are also screwed on. The perimeter of window openings is formed in the same way.

This completes the formation of the frame. You can proceed to the process of fixing the drywall sheets. The sheet sizes are standardized: 1200x2000 mm, 1200x2500 or 1200x3000 mm. In most cases, ceilings in residential areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so one sheet of height may not be enough. Small strips of drywall will need to be added.

The first sheet that will be installed close to the edge, most often to the adjacent wall, must be removed from the side chamfer. To do this, a strip 50 mm wide is cut along its entire length on one side.

Result of work

How to cut drywall?

An ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades is used for this. The sheet must be placed on a flat, hard surface. Mark the cut line with a pencil and make an incision with a knife. top layer cardboard After this, the sheet is shifted along the cut line to the edge of the support and carefully broken. Having returned the sheet to its original position, it turns on its edge and bends. The cardboard is also cut on the second side, but not all the way through. By turning the sheet over and moving it to the edge of the support, you can finally chip it.

To ensure a gap that can be properly sealed later with putty, a bevel is formed on the cut edge of the sheet with an inclination of 22.5 degrees or close to it. A special plasterboard plane is used for this. Also, a chamfer is made on the edge of the sheet that will be adjacent to the gypsum board strip located above or below the sheet.

Fastening drywall sheets

Attach the sheet to metal frame should be done using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges of the sheet are secured first, followed by the edges and the midline. For this purpose, there is a special marking marking the position of the screws every 250 mm. The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more. The screws are screwed in so that the caps go slightly deeper into the plasterboard and do not stick out above the wall level.

Important: The sheets are secured at a distance of 10-15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

Having secured the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece of plasterboard is cut off. It is also chamfered on the sides where it will dock to the bottom or top sheet and to the ceiling.

Subsequent sheets are installed entirely without chamfering and in checkerboard pattern. That is, after the first row, a whole sheet of drywall is installed under the ceiling, and the missing part is installed below. Thus, one side of the wall is sheathed.

Laying out wiring and installing sockets and switches

Before covering the second side, you can, if necessary, lay wires. To pass through the rack profiles, holes of 35 mm in size are made in them, strictly in the middle of the profile at the required height. It is advisable that the edges of the hole be concave to one side and bent so as not to subsequently damage the wires. The wires are mounted in accordance with the requirements in a corrugated pipe.

Soundproofing plasterboard walls

Mineral wool is used for this. This will make the plasterboard wall less transparent to sound, because without soundproofing all the noise from one room will be heard in another. Easier to use roll version of this material with a width of 600 or 1200 mm. The second option is cut in half lengthwise. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the rack profiles without gaps. There is no need to secure it further. For reliability, you can form horizontal jumpers from wooden beam along the width of the wall on which mineral wool of shorter length than the height of the ceilings will rest. This method is suitable for places where there is a risk of moisture getting inside the wall. However, sufficient ventilation of the interior must also be ensured.

Completing the construction of a plasterboard wall

After this, you can sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side of the wall is sheathed, you can begin filling all the end surfaces.

Between the sheets of plasterboard there is a distance of 100 mm formed by chamfers, which is slightly recessed. The joints are glued with a mounting mesh and compared with the general level of the wall using starting putty. Finishing putty is applied to all places where self-tapping screws are installed or to the entire surface, especially if the wall will subsequently be painted or pasted over. thin wallpaper. Using abrasive mesh and a trowel, the putty layer is finally leveled. After this, the wall is ready for cladding with any suitable material.

Video: forming walls from plasterboard with your own hands

Using drywall for re-planning movements - great choice in favor of quality and easy installation. And gypsum board sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of plasterboard partitions is easy to do yourself if you choose quality materials and tools to make the process easier.

Before planning and destroying old floors, you must obtain permission from the building management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment layout may affect the safety of the entire house. If the redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for installing plasterboard partitions is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being built for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door, and there are no shelves or other heavy parts on the sides, then the thickness of the product can be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is not selected “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders highlight a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. This material is used in rooms with normal humidity levels. If the partition is being made in a bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used, as they are not reliable enough. Most often, reinforced guides and rack profiles made of metal are used. They happen different types and thickness - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

• dowels;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• screws for metal;
• sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
• acrylic primer;
• putty;
• serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools required to construct the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for work

When installing a gypsum plasterboard partition, construction tools are used.

It’s better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for installing a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes or additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing metal profiles.

How to install a plasterboard partition

Before installing a plasterboard partition, you need to make sure you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Installing a partition with your own hands takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is applying markings. Never skip it, especially if you are installing such a structure for the first time.

Marking

It is necessary to begin the installation of plasterboard partitions by applying markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a construction corner.

The line must be perfectly straight, because subsequently the profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with particular precision, otherwise the structure will turn out crooked, which will lead to its premature wear and impossibility of installing the door.

Frame installation

After the markings have been applied and the alignment is ensured, guide profiles are installed. First, place the part on the floor and secure it with dowels, bypassing the space for the door.

Advice! Holes for fastenings are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markings, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers dowel plugs into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. Then they make a final check of the markings, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, attach the rack profile along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal according to the level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal guide. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, proceed to installing the ceiling rail.

Advice! Screws must be screwed in at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Attaching to the ceiling is done using the same method as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, checking the floor markings with the ceiling. Measure the height of the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut out with scissors.

The vertical profile should be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden beam. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed at the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then installation interior partitions accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are attached approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings and calculate how many vertical posts are required. They are mounted 300-600 mm from each other. Cut from a metal profile required quantity racks, then install their ends inside the guides. The process is controlled building level. The profiles must be fastened with self-tapping screws with larger heads.

Electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, the inside is made electrical wiring. This can be done after the installation of plasterboard partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. You need to make holes in the profiles through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Covering the frame with plasterboard

The big stage is covering the frame with gypsum plasterboard sheets to size. It is necessary to screw drywall with visible self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fastening gypsum boards). The fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheet sizes are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of plasterboard partitions. To make a chamfer, you can use a plane with a beveled knife.

Advice! If the partition will use elements to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the required diameter. Wires are routed through them after the structure is completely installed.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Space cannot be left empty, otherwise it will lead to an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Door frame installation

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

1. The door jamb with hinges is installed level, using larger self-tapping screws.
2. The heads of the screws are deepened into the wooden posts of the box.
3. The door is hung (it is advisable to choose the lightest possible material).

If problems arise due to insufficiently level installation of the profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled polyurethane foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Sealing seams

The final stage of installation of gypsum plasterboard partitions is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with glue applied, then installation will be faster:

After all procedures, proceed to the stage finishing finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is necessary to ensure that the decorative materials lie flat and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy appearance will negate all the efforts of the builder.

Finishing is completed with a final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grain sandpaper.

After clearing the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait until it dries completely. Now you can paste wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a partition from plasterboard with your own hands is not only simple, but also exciting process, which even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip steps.

It happens that you need to make zoning in a large room, sometimes it is necessary to separate part of a spacious room for an office or a nursery, in general, situations are different, but there is only one solution - installing plasterboard partitions. It is not at all necessary to make a wall that completely cuts off the space to be separated; sometimes a small partition, a hint of a partition, is enough, especially since this option will be much cheaper.

Why is installing plasterboard partitions better than walls made of other materials?

The main advantage of this material over others used in the construction of walls is the price. If you opt for brick, you will have to buy quite large number building blocks, cement and sand (cheap materials in volume also affect costs), primer, finishing materials. To ensure that the technology for installing plasterboard partitions does not have any flaws, a few sheets of this material and a certain number of metal profiles, as well as a couple of kilograms of screws, are enough. We will talk about this in more detail below.

A number of other advantages can be listed at once, since all these advantages relate directly to working with the material. Firstly, one person can do the installation, and even without haste, the partitions will be assembled in short terms. Secondly, the process of assembling the frame in particular and installing plasterboard partitions in general is not too labor-intensive and does not involve a large number of construction waste(and generally with dirt). And thirdly, this material opens limitless possibilities for your creativity, in the sense that the designs can be given, the result is flat wall, which can be applied to almost any finish.

The undoubted advantage of lightweight frame partitions is the ability to change their configuration literally on the go. That is, if additional sockets or switches are needed, it is easy to dismantle part of the structure, run additional wiring and install the elements necessary to supply the apartment with electricity. Two advantages immediately follow from this: the convenience of laying various communications inside the partitions and the ease of their dismantling if necessary.

How to make an estimate for the installation of plasterboard partitions?

To ensure that during the process of assembling the frame it does not become clear that there is not enough materials, or that subsequently there is no surplus left, which would be enough for another structure, the consumption of profiles and drywall should be calculated. Also, before making a frame for the partition, you need to calculate the amount of accompanying materials. First, we measure the room and determine what kind of partition it will be. If it is continuous, across the entire room, then we simply take the necessary measurements without taking into account the doorway and estimate the number of CW and UW profiles, based on the fact that they are installed in increments of 60 centimeters, and their lengths are 2.75, 3, 4, 4.5 and 6 meters. Measuring the wall is even easier.

The cost of installing frame plasterboard partitions directly depends on their area. As a rule, sheet sizes are 1.2x2.5 or 1.2x3 meters. It is logical that if the ceiling height is 2.5 meters, the first option is preferable, and if it is higher, then the second, in order to eliminate horizontal seams, which are inevitable in high-ceiling apartments. The sheet area is either 3 or 3.6 square meters. Now all that remains is to divide the previously recorded area of ​​the partition by the square footage of a unit of drywall and get the number of sheets, which should be multiplied by two, since the sheathing will be double-sided. And add a reserve 10%.

As for additional materials, you will need mounting brackets, the total number of which can be calculated based on the fact that they are mounted on the walls with an interval of about 50 centimeters. You can attach profiles directly to walls, ceilings and floors. Installation of the profile around the perimeter of the future frame is carried out with self-tapping screws, with or without dowels, every 30-50 centimeters, and for fastening drywall, about 60 screws per sheet are required. It is better to take damper tape or serpyanka with a reserve. Quantity mineral wool for sound insulation it corresponds to the area of ​​a partition made in one layer, and for a multi-layer construction, 2 times more wool will be needed.

It is advisable to lay serpyanka or damper tape at the junction of a metal profile or wooden beam with sheets of plasterboard, this will significantly increase the sound insulation of the structure.

Step-by-step installation of interior plasterboard partitions

So, the materials have been calculated and purchased, profiles, plasterboard sheets, damper tape, screws and dowels, corrugated pipes, as well as soundproofing material are available.

However, before doing frame partition, it is necessary to prepare and necessary tools. We will need an electric drill with a hammer drill function, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a construction knife, metal scissors, a plumb line, a level, a measuring tape, a tapping thread, and a pencil.

Installation of plasterboard partitions - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking the room

Depending on the size of the area, you may need more than one partition.

Let’s consider just this option, and, for simplicity, a single-layer one. First, we measure the required distance from the wall parallel to which the structure will be installed, and make marks.

We transfer it to the wall and ceiling using a plumb line, which we hold exactly above the line, placing pencil dots at small intervals until the markings for the guides cover the room with a vertical belt.

Step 2: Installing the Guides

So, the lines cover the vertical perimeter of the room everywhere where the partitions should go, installing guides for which we will now proceed. To begin with, we glue damper tape onto the profiles; it will serve as vibration insulation for structural parts fixed to the floor, walls and ceiling.

We lay the profile exactly along the line, down with the tape, drill a hole if, then use a screw with a dowel, and fix it on wooden surfaces with self-tapping screws.

We mark doorways in advance and do not install profiles in their place.

Step 3: Frame installation

Depending on the length of the purchased profiles, we cut them off or extend them, focusing on the height of the ceiling, and insert the finished elements into the guides at equal sixty-centimeter intervals.

It is not necessary to fasten them immediately; only profiles require fixing them with screws to the guides doorways, and you need to especially carefully check their verticality.

Step 4: Forming Openings

For the lintels, we cut off pieces of profiles, the length of which should be 6 centimeters greater than the width of the openings. Along the edges, we cut out 3 centimeters in the shelves of the bases of the resulting parts, leaving the sidewalls, after which we fix them clearly horizontally with screws at a height of 207 centimeters.

As an additional fastener, we use a vertical piece of profile (cut at the edges in the same way), connecting the lintel to the upper rail.

To make the doors stronger, we install additional vertical profiles at a distance of ten centimeters from the “jambs”.

Step 5: Preparing the Drywall

Let's start installing drywall. If the sheets are slightly larger than the height of the room, cut them to required sizes using a construction knife. To do this, make a deep cut, after which we carefully bend it along it until the fragment to be separated breaks off, then along the fold of the second cardboard side we finally cut off the excess piece. You can use a saw, but there will be more dust. If the sheets match the height of the ceiling, we immediately begin installation.

Step 6: Installation of the first side of the partition

The step between the screws in the process of fixing the sheets is kept to no more than 20 centimeters.

If, after marking, it turns out that the partition will need several whole sheets and one halved one, and the drywall is planned to be laid in two layers, we start the first layer with half, finish it, and start the second layer with a whole sheet.

It may turn out that the sheets are shorter than the height of the room, then you will have to supplement them with small fragments.

In this case, frame interior room partitions made of plasterboard can be assembled with your own hands according to a simple scheme. When laying the coating in one layer, we move each sheet in relation to the previous one up or down so that the horizontal seams are either at the floor or at the ceiling.

For two-layer coating bottom sheets we lay it so that the horizontal seams run along the floor, and top sheets We install it by laying additional fragments along the ceiling.

Step 7: Difficult areas of the structure

Having fixed the drywall on the doorway, we go around the frame and, on the back side of the sheet, make an incision with a construction knife inside the opening, along the profile itself, then take a saw and cut out the entire rectangle of the door. By extending the sheets with additional strips, it is not enough to attach the latter only to the frame, so from the inside we put profile scraps on the seams and fasten them with outside screws.

If the structure is mounted in the attic, you will definitely be faced with the need to give the drywall the appropriate shape.

We make all measurements of the bevels using a plumb line and a tape measure directly on the frame, after which we make the corresponding marks on the sheet and cut it with a construction knife, as mentioned above.

The filler will hold perfectly if one edge is inserted into the profile and the other is rested against the base of the adjacent frame post.

Step 9: Installation of the second side of the partition

Before the installation of interior plasterboard partitions is completed, namely, the installation of sheets on the other side of the frame, it is necessary to outline in advance where the sockets and switches for lighting fixtures will be located. For them, as well as for light wall lamps, you should immediately, using a special crown-shaped attachment on a drill, cut holes and lead the wires into them. Only after this we fix the drywall in the same way as we did before.