Based on the fact that a change house is a room designed to meet household needs, it requires proper and reliable thermal insulation. Moreover, in some cases, cabins are successfully used as living quarters, when heat loss should be minimal. In any case, the design of such a structure allows fordo-it-yourself insulation of a cabinor with the help of professionals in this matter - with minimal costs.

Huge heat losses in metal cabins occur due to cracks in the floor

In general, there are 3 types of cabins: metal, wooden and combined models. Accordingly, taking into account the material used as insulation, the thermal insulation process itself is carried out. Wooden cabins are especially vulnerable to cold, so they must be insulated by following the following rules:

• The first thing you should pay attention to is the roof, given that most of the heat loss goes through it. Usually the roof is covered with a polymer-coated film, with further use corrugated sheets
• The next stage is the walls, the thermal resistance coefficient of which can be increased through the use of MDF panels. Since they are installed on metal profiles, then the resulting space is filled with any bulk insulation.

As for metal cabins, they are more resistant to negative impacts. This is due, first of all, to the design of the room itself: metal case, as a rule, is protected from moisture penetration by the flooring. However, there is a possibility that the roof will still be subject to corrosion. To prevent this situation, it is necessary to treat the surface polymer coating(or paint). A lining or plastic panels. The thermal insulation material can be, for example, mineral wool or spray polyurethane foam. And since huge heat losses in metal cabins occur due to cracks in the floor, for this purpose it can be additionally reinforced with tongue and groove boards. Thermal insulation of combined cabins is carried out using approximately the same scheme.

Insulating a cabin: choosing a material

Polyurethane foam - perfect material for insulation: the absence of cracks and joints ensures maximum thermal insulation

Most of the materials used to insulate a cabin have a budget cost, which is determined by the purpose of this room. The following materials are especially popular:

• Foam plastic. It is mainly used to insulate walls. It is used most often when finishing wooden cabins. Foam is resistant to moisture and easy to install. However, he also has negative qualities, including low service life if installation technology is violated. In addition, if you choose a low-quality material, the foam may crumble and, thus, cease to be a barrier to cold air. Another disadvantage of polystyrene foam can be considered the volume of its use. For normal insulation of a cabin, a significant layer of material will be required. This reduces the required space, which is already limited. Moreover, polystyrene foam is highly flammable and flammable, which can cause serious problems in the event of a fire.
• Fiberglass or mineral wool. Their main advantage can be considered fire resistance and excellent heat capacity, if all installation conditions are correctly met. When laying a sufficiently large layer, the acoustic characteristics of the room can be significantly improved. But, such material is partially safe for health, because, despite the fact that it does not have harmful impurities, the presence of small fractions of glass fragments or mineral components is harmful to the human body. Look at the insulation technology on the "" page.
• Basalt fibers. They are produced by processing basalt residues rocks. On sale you can find fibers in the form of slabs, which are convenient to cut and lay as internal insulation. Basalt wool completely heat-resistant and does not deform over time. Thermal insulation of the cabin will be achieved through the use of a small layer of material, which significantly saves space and money spent. But large number I cannot name the seams obtained during the installation process that require additional thermal insulation. this material optimal as insulation.

Features of using polyurethane foam for insulating a cabin

Polyurethane foam has a high coefficient of heat resistance, which allows it to be applied in a small layer, thereby increasing the required space in the shed

Today, one of the most popular methods of insulating cabins is the use of polyurethane foam. It is possible to use 2 types: hard polyurethane foam and liquid. In general, it allows you to use both methods. It is best to use “hard” polyurethane foam in order to increase the heat capacity of the external cladding of the cabin. For example, it is used to strengthen the roof and the outside of the walls. The structure of the polyurethane foam allows you to completely hide all roof defects, thereby increasing the temperature inside the room.

For spray-applied polyurethane foam, interior cladding can be considered the optimal application location. The substance completely fills all irregularities, preventing the passage of cold and the formation of cracks. It is noteworthy that polyurethane foam has a number of advantages that distinguish it from other materials used for thermal insulation. These include:

• A high coefficient of heat resistance, which allows you to apply polyurethane foam in a small layer, thereby increasing the required space in the shed.
• Given the foam structure, polyurethane foam quickly hardens and instantly becomes a barrier to cold air.
• The polyurethane foam is applied in an even layer, which eliminates the formation of seams and other fastenings through which a significant amount of heat is lost in most insulation materials.
• Despite the fact that polyurethane foam is a modified plastic, it does not contain harmful impurities, which makes it an environmentally friendly material suitable for improvement inside a living space.
• The high protective properties of polyurethane foam make it possible to protect the coating on which it is applied from harmful effects(such as corrosion, fading or rotting).
• With proper application and normal use, it will last more than 30 years.

In conclusion, answering the question of how to insulate a shed, it should be noted: here it is necessary to take into account a number of circumstances that play a key role when carrying out thermal insulation work:

• Depending on the material from which the cabin is made, you should select suitable way thermal insulation.
• With a combined approach to the process of improving the shed, it is possible to achieve such results that after thermal insulation there is no need for additional heating, that is, it will be completely habitable without additional costs!

Video: insulation of a residential trailer (cabin) with sprayed polyurethane foam

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Nothing is as permanent as something temporary. Therefore, insulating a cabin with your own hands is not only possible, but also highly desirable, because even a short stay in a cold room is fraught with health problems. We will look at how to insulate a cabin and how best to do it.

Materials and methods

Internal or external lining

There are three ways to position the insulation:

1. external,
2. interior,
3. intra-wall.

The latter, of course, is preferable, but it is only possible in frame structures. In addition, it is advisable to carry it out during the construction stage, since dismantling the entire internal lining is very problematic and expensive.

If we talk about the remaining two, then it is better to focus on the external location of the thermal insulation, and here’s why:

• Firstly, with an internal location, the already limited internal volume of the room will decrease;
• Secondly, wall structures will not freeze, which will increase their service life;
• Thirdly, for interior work It is undesirable to use many materials due to their chemical composition and influence on the atmosphere of the room;
• Finally, thermal insulation with sheathing will further protect the walls from the influence atmospheric phenomena, corrosion, solar radiation and pests.

Important! It must be borne in mind that the external location of the insulation will require additional covering with siding, clapboard or blockhouse, and this will require certain costs.

If you don’t want to bother with the sheathing, or this is not possible, you can place the insulation from the inside. In the case of using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, this completely simplifies the task, since these materials do not need waterproofing and can remain open, but this option is acceptable only as a temporary measure, for example, as insulation of a shed for builders or workers.

Ecowool

If the insulated change house will be used as a country house or other permanent place habitat, then additional requirements are imposed on thermal insulation:

• The material must be non-flammable, since otherwise there is a serious danger to the life and health of people, as well as the safety of things and furniture;
• The heat insulator must be non-toxic. The change house will be your bedroom, kitchen and shower room at the same time, so it is important that the material does not emit any toxins or chemical compounds harmful to humans;
• The insulation must have a long shelf life. Country houses are used for years, so it is advisable to use a material with an adequate service life.

Ecowool best meets all these requirements - a modern thermal insulation material consisting of 80% recycled waste paper or recycled cellulose, as well as boric acid(12%) as an antiseptic and seven percent impregnation with fire retardants.

There are several ways to lay this material:

• Manual;
• Mechanized dry;
• Mechanized wet.

In case of small volumes (our case), manual laying is used. This allows you to do the work yourself and significantly reduce costs.

Now let’s talk about how to insulate a cabin with your own hands using ecowool. Installation instructions are quite simple:

• A vertical sheathing is placed on the wall. Distance between slats - 40 - 50 cm.

• Starting from the bottom, the sheathing is sheathed with clapboard up to the level 50 cm.
• The ecowool is removed from the packaging and fluffed so that its volume increases three times.

• Fluffy cotton wool is poured into the gap between the lining and the wall and compacted with hands until the material begins to spring back.

• Next, the next line of lining is filled, again by 50 cm, and the process repeats.
• In this way the entire wall is covered.
• Lignin, which is part of cellulose, after interacting with atmospheric moisture, forms a hard crust that will protect the cotton wool from moisture and wind.

Advice! Before installing the sheathing, the wall can be covered with a wind barrier; this will also increase the heat resistance of the cabin.

Foam plastic

Polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene can be glued to metal using liquid nails, and covered with roofing felt on top. As a temporary measure, this is a completely acceptable option, and the insulated metal shed is ready.

You can also use this material for interior cladding. You can also use liquid nails for this. After fixing the sheets on the wall, the cracks and gaps between them should be closed polyurethane foam.

Advice! If there is no foam, you can use tape or tape to insulate the cracks, having previously coated the joints with glue.

If we compare polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, then polystyrene foam will turn out to be a more effective material:

• it is stronger;
• has lower thermal conductivity;
• In addition, the sheets of this material are equipped with locks that will save you from treating the joints with foam.

The price of expanded polystyrene is slightly higher,

Conclusion

Insulating temporary housing is a necessary measure that will preserve your health and improve the quality of life, even in conditions of rare use of the cabin. Insulation work is simple and will not cause significant costs or difficulties. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

August 27, 2016
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

A country insulated cabin is a kind of small house, in which you can live comfortably both in summer and winter, provided that the thermal insulation is of high quality. I will tell you how to insulate a simple wooden structure on your own, we will look at what stages the work process consists of and how to carry it out with minimal time and money. You just need to use the recommendations from the article to achieve excellent results.

Stages of work

First, let's figure out what stages the workflow consists of. To achieve best result, you need to insulate the following building elements:

• Ceiling;
• Walls;
• Window and door openings.

I'll tell you about the most budget and simple version carrying out work that anyone can handle. All recommendations have been tested in practice more than once and have proven their effectiveness.

Preparatory stage

For work you will need the following materials:

Foam plastic	With his help the work will be carried out. For walls, floors and ceilings, I recommend using the PSB-S 25 brand, although there will be no load on the insulation, extra strength will not hurt, and the characteristics of the material are higher than those of the least dense option.
Penofol	This is a new generation of insulation, which is made of foamed polyethylene, one side of which is covered with reflective material. With a small thickness (about 5 mm), it has high heat and sound insulating properties, and its use in conjunction with polystyrene foam can increase heat saving rates by one and a half times. A roll 30 meters long and 120 cm wide with a thickness of 5 mm will cost you about 2,000 rubles
Polyurethane foam	Without this composition, the process of insulating the cabin would take much longer and more difficult. Thanks to polyurethane foam, you can quickly and efficiently fill all joints and seal voids and cracks. As for the cost, a high-quality cylinder with a yield of about 65 liters will cost you about 300 rubles
Silicone sealant	With its help, all external joints are sealed for reliable protection from moisture. This is especially true for all openings, because it is through them that moisture most often enters the structure. One package with a capacity of 300 ml will cost 80-100 rubles

It is better to purchase a spray foam gun and use professional cylinders. This, firstly, is more convenient during application, and secondly, this option allows you to accurately dose the foam and fill even small crevices with it.

As for the tools, when doing the work yourself you will need the following devices:

• A screwdriver with different attachments and a set of wood drills. During the work, you will have to fasten many different elements, so working with a screwdriver is not the best solution;
• In order for all surfaces to be smooth and the frame to have the necessary parameters, it is worth using a tape measure, a square and building level. A carpenter's pencil is best suited for marking;

• If you are building a frame, then you need to take care of devices for cutting wood. It can be either a regular hacksaw or any suitable tool: jigsaw, power saw, circular saw etc.;
• For high-quality and accurate application of polyurethane foam and silicone sealant It is better to purchase special pistols.

Floor insulation

I want to start reviewing the work precisely from this part of the structure, since without a reliable floor, carrying out any work on the walls will be very problematic. The workflow consists of several stages:

• If you have not yet nailed the rough flooring, this should be done before starting work. You also need to clean the surface of debris; if there are protruding nails, it is better to bend them. Naturally, the surfaces must be dry; covering wet wood is not the best solution;
• Waterproofing material is laid on the prepared base; it will prevent moisture from penetrating from below, which is very important for maintaining the reliability of the structure. The easiest way to fasten it is with a construction stapler; for reliability, the joints should be quite large - at least 20 cm, it is also advisable to glue them with tape;

• Then all the spaces between the lags are filled with polystyrene foam, as I noted above, the minimum layer for normal thermal insulation is 10 cm, but if it is possible to put 15-20 cm, it will be even better. There is no need to look for insulation of such thickness; you can put it in several layers, the main thing is to move the joints for greater reliability;

• After finishing laying the foam, carefully inspect the surface for any cracks.. All these places need to be carefully filled with polyurethane foam, the composition dries within an hour or two, after which its excess is cut off with a construction knife. Do not try to squeeze more foam into the voids - it tends to expand, and you will simply waste excess composition, which will simply come out;
• Penofol is laid completely on the base; this material not only retains heat in the room, but also reflects it inside. The work is simple: the roll is spread out and cut to the required length, the entire surface is covered, after which the joints are sealed with special metallized tape. The easiest way to fasten the material is with a stapler; you need to nail a 20-30 mm thick strip or board on top along the logs so that the flooring does not squeeze the penofol;

• Lastly, it is attached finishing coat, the easiest way is to use moisture-resistant plywood or oriented strand board. The sheets are screwed with self-tapping screws, after which you can lay linoleum on them or even just paint them.

This insulation option is also well suited for a summer house with a terrace, which is closed from external influences. Insulated residential cabins for living for a long period of time can be insulated in the same way, but instead of polystyrene foam, use more expensive mineral wool; its thermal insulation values ​​are higher, which allows you to achieve maximum operating efficiency.

Wall insulation

If you are thinking about how to build a summer cottage from scratch, then the best option will frame construction, in which the walls are made of timber with a width of at least 200 mm. In this case, you will simply need to fill all the cells of the structure with insulation and cover it on both sides with finishing material.

The structure of such walls is shown in the picture below, everything is very simple and effective, but I will dwell in detail on the insulation stage, since this is what my review is devoted to:

• First of all, you need to sheathe outer part constructions with OSB plywood, this is necessary so that you can safely install insulation without fear of pushing it out;
• Insulation work begins with attaching a waterproofing, vapor-permeable film, which will allow moisture from the material to escape, but will not allow water to pass through outside. The range of such films is wide; it is important to choose a high-quality option with good reviews and secure it correctly, the inscriptions serve as a guide, they should always look outward;
• Then the entire space is tightly filled with polystyrene foam, I advise you to build a frame, taking into account the size of the sheets, so that you can place them without cutting. This will simplify the workflow and speed it up significantly. The distance between the bars should be at least 5 mm less than the width of the sheets, then they will fit very tightly;

• Next you need to fill all the cracks that you can find with polyurethane foam.. It is important not to miss a single void; this will minimize heat loss and make your building as warm as possible. Again, the excess is cut off after the composition dries;

• Penofol is attached on top of the insulation, that's all important nuances I described above. Here it is only worth noting the fact that it is advisable to nail a counter-lattice made of slats on top of this material, to which the finishing finishing material. This will eliminate deformation of the material itself and increase the efficiency of the insulation due to the presence of an additional air gap;

• Lastly, it is attached finishing, most often used wooden lining, since this option is not only attractive, but also environmentally friendly and ideally suited for such buildings.

If the structure will be used for living in winter, then it is better to make a layer of insulation 25-30 cm. Manufacturers claim that 20 cm is enough, but, as practice shows, in winter such buildings are not as warm as we would like. Again, you can use mineral wool, but this will be very expensive, for example, a package of 5 sheets measuring 100 by 60 cm and 100 mm thick costs from 700 rubles.

Ceiling insulation

For some reason, many developers pay little attention to this part of the structure, and yet school course physicists know that warm air rises upward, and if the ceiling is not insulated, then the heat loss through it will be simply colossal. The ceiling requires the closest attention, the work is not difficult, but it is important to do everything as efficiently and reliably as possible:

• Most often, waterproofing material is laid from the outside, since it must also protect the roof sheathing, so this step is not necessary in the case of the ceiling - there is no need to cover the wood with film on both sides;
• Next you need to lay the foam, ideally if the distance between the beams allows you to insert it tightly, otherwise you will have to use special glue for thermal insulation, which is sold in the same containers as foam. With its help, you will quickly and efficiently fix the elements on the ceiling; if the composition remains, then it can be safely used to fill joints and cracks;

You can do the opposite: if you don’t have an adhesive composition on hand, then you can safely use polyurethane foam instead; it hardens a little more slowly, but is not inferior in strength to special adhesives.

• To minimize heat loss through the ceiling, it must be covered with penofol. This material is laid on the surface and fixed using a counter-lattice; to fix the position of the elements, you can use a stapler. And do not forget to glue the joints with special tape; if this is not done, the heat will escape through the joints;

• Lastly, either sheet material or lining is attached. It all depends on your preferences and the overall style of the room.

I often hear the opinion: they say that if you cover all surfaces with penofol, then there will be no normal air exchange in the change house and that this can be done in a winter change house, but in the summer it will be uncomfortable.

Here I fundamentally disagree: firstly, if air flows through the cracks in the floor, ceiling and walls, then there can be no talk of any heat, and secondly, if you make a normal ventilation system (which is not difficult, given small size of the building), then there will be no problem at all.

If you have a small shed pitched roof, then you can additionally insulate and attic space, having poured a layer of expanded clay, it is light and will not put much stress on the structure. But the presence of such a layer will significantly improve the thermal insulation performance of the ceiling.

Insulation of openings

If you carefully looked at the heat loss diagram in the previous chapter, you noticed that through front door and windows in total can lose about 25% of all heat, which is very, very much. To avoid such significant losses, I recommend using a few simple recommendations:

• As for doors, it is very important to separate entrance structure from the main room. It is clear that making a full-fledged hallway is problematic, but you can separate the area meter by meter and build a vestibule, this will allow you to install two doors and will not allow the heat from the room to freely escape outside when the door is opened. The size of such a vestibule is not important, what is important is the presence of a buffer between the street and the room;

• Door structures must be sufficiently reliable in terms of thermal insulation. It is better to use either a solid wood option or frame products filled with foam or mineral wool; you can make them yourself. Of course, if it is possible to install a warm entrance structure, then it will be ideal option;
• When installing door frames special attention You should pay attention to high-quality filling of joints with polyurethane foam. It should be applied in a zigzag motion and try to fill the entire space completely. Here it is important not to overdo it and not try to lay more foam; in my practice there was a case when the composition bent a steel box due to the fact that there was nowhere for it to go;

• If you have ordinary doors, then you can purchase ready-made sealing gum and paste it over door frame along the perimeter, this will allow the canvas to fit much more tightly and reduce heat loss significantly. The seal has a self-adhesive layer, you just need to remove it protective coating and gently press it at the installation site;

Polyurethane foam has a long service life, excellent resistance to moisture, but does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation from the sun, under which it collapses very quickly. Therefore, always cover the cracks from the outside with platband or lath.

• Window openings also require the closest attention; let's figure out how to insulate this part of the structure with our own hands, and start with the type of window. Of course, the ideal option would be plastic construction with double glazing. If you need to save money, then a wooden one will do, but again it is better to insert a double-glazed window into it, this will significantly increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the windows;

• The instructions for installing windows are not very different from the option with doors, so you shouldn’t dwell on this aspect. It is important to install it securely and fill all the voids around the perimeter with polyurethane foam; the joint is covered from the outside with a casing;
• On the outside, it is better to additionally treat all cracks with sealant; this will prevent moisture from penetrating inside. The composition is elastic, so it will retain its properties for a long time even with changes in temperature and humidity;
• If you have a change house with a stove, then there will be a pipe in the structure, and it is very important to reliably insulate its outlet in the wall or ceiling. To protect against fire, the space around is covered with stone wool, which can withstand fire very well. high temperatures and holds heat well;

• From the outside, the outlet of the pipe is covered with a piece of tin according to size; all joints are treated with a special heat-resistant sealant, which can withstand high temperatures and perfectly protects against moisture penetration.

We figured out how to insulate from the inside wooden cabin and how to do this with minimal material costs. Of course they happen often metal structures, they are thermally insulated according to a similar principle, there is one caveat: if attaching the sheathing to the surface is difficult or impossible, then you can simply glue the insulation. It is very important to protect such a structure well from moisture, since water causes metal corrosion.

Conclusion

If you want to build a cabin in your country house or somewhere else that you can live in during the cold season, then by following all the recommendations from this review, you will get a warm and cozy structure. The video in this article will clearly show some important points, which you should pay attention to, and if anything is unclear to you, then ask questions in the comments under the review.

August 27, 2016

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Foam is an environmentally friendly material that is not afraid of biological influences and does not cause an allergic reaction. For those who are interested in how to properly insulate a shed with polystyrene foam, let us immediately say that it is quite easy to do this, because this material has a very light weight, which does not require amplification load-bearing structures, and also, it is available for processing with any tools.

The advantages of polystyrene foam also include the following nuances:

• fire resistance;
• durability;
• moisture resistance;
• not afraid of temperature changes.



The disadvantage of this insulation is the impossibility of filling some recesses or rounded configurations, because its sheets are quite rigid and do not bend. Because of this, condensation can accumulate in the voids, which leads to rotting. wooden structures and to the formation of corrosion in metal.

Also consider the fact that some paint and varnish materials and drying oil can damage or even dissolve polystyrene foam. Hitting straight sun rays also contributes to the gradual destruction this insulation. To prevent this from happening, it must be carefully plastered on top with cement.

Before you insulate a cabin car from the outside with polystyrene foam, you should study its parameters, because some sheets will be useless for winter accommodation and are only suitable for packaging household appliances. IN in this case the PSB-S grade should be the fortieth grade. Then pay attention to the density and what edge you get when you break it. If the fracture site is uneven and small balls are visible, then it is a low-grade product. If there are regular polyhedra in this place, then you need to choose this particular polystyrene foam.

• Penoplex and Technonickel;
• Polimeri Europa;
• Basf;
• Styrochem, etc.

Mineral wool has an increased quality of thermal insulation and is resistant to fire. In addition, this material significantly improves sound insulation.

Mineral wool consists of randomly arranged fibers, which can be glass, slag or stone. Moreover, slag wool is not as environmentally friendly as others, but it can be taken with bare hands.

The advantages of this insulation are:

• fire resistance;
• soft material is quite durable;
• does not allow heat to pass through in summer and retains heat for a long time in winter;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability;
• service life from 25 to 50 years.

When working with glass wool, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, because glass particles painfully dig into the skin. It is usually used in production.

Slag wool is now practically not used, but stone wool Nowadays it is most in demand, because the basalt contained in its composition improves the quality of thermal insulation significantly. In addition, this type of mineral wool does not pose any danger during installation, does not burn or deform, but it is also more expensive than its analogues.

Mineral wool does not need special mount- they fit quite tightly between the frame slats. You just need to make sure that connecting lines were displaced.

Unlike polystyrene foam, mineral wool perfectly fills all voids. Most summer residents prefer this type of insulation for their cabins.

Cotton insulation is one of the safest, environmentally friendly and high-quality insulation materials. It's difficult to cut, but other than that it's perfect.

There are ones that differ in the building materials for production: wood, metal and combined options. The heat insulator is selected separately for a specific type, taking into account its technical characteristics. The types of insulation and thermal insulation of outbuildings will be discussed in the article.

General rules for thermal insulation

To properly insulate a wooden outbuilding, certain rules are followed.

1. First, we prevent heat loss through the roof - we cover the structure with a special film. Only after this can the roof be laid in the form of corrugated sheets or ondulin.
2. To increase heat resistance, MDF panels are used, installed on special profiles. We fill the free space with a heat insulator of your choice.

Change houses made of metal are highly resistant to mechanical and other influences. Metal frame completely protected from moisture by special flooring. But the roof of an outbuilding is often susceptible to corrosion processes. To prevent corrosion, it should be treated with a polymer-based coating or paint and varnish products.

Wall structures are sheathed with clapboard, block house or plastic panels. Thermal insulators are mineral wool or polyurethane foam. To prevent heat loss, cracks and joints are sealed with tongue and groove boards. Combined outbuildings are insulated in the same way.

Insulation materials

A change house without insulation will not perform all the functions and tasks for which it is intended. Therefore, you should carefully consider and select the insulation technology, as well as select a suitable insulator.

The modern market provides a variety of thermal insulation materials. Let's look at the most common ones in detail.

This type of heat insulator is mainly used to insulate walls. outbuildings. Foam insulation is beneficial when finishing wooden cabins. The material is resistant to moisture, simple and easy to install. Foam insulation has disadvantages: short term operation and a large volume for good insulation, and with low-quality products - significant heat loss. Several layers of polystyrene foam will reduce the area of ​​the room, and improper use of the structure will lead to a fire.

Mineral wool and fiberglass

The advantages of materials are fire safety and excellent thermal insulation characteristics, subject to all requirements technological process. If you install several layers of heat insulation, the acoustic properties of the rooms will increase. Disadvantages - the components are harmful to health.

Such fibers are produced through careful processing of basalt rocks. On the construction market, a common form of material is slabs, which can be easily cut to size and laid. The heat insulator is completely resistant to fire and does not undergo deformation processes for a long time. The easy-to-use material will not take up much free space, so the area of ​​the shed will remain almost the same. The disadvantage is the many seams that remain after installing thermal insulation.

This thermal insulation material is the most common and effective for insulating commercial buildings. There are 2 types: liquid and hard. Experts recommend using the second option to increase heat capacity exterior finishing buildings. It is great for strengthening roofing system and the outer part of the walls. Using the unique structure of polyurethane foam, it is possible to mask possible defects in the roofing system and increase the temperature in the structure.

Polyurethane foam is sometimes used in another way - by spraying it onto indoor cladding. It fills all the penetration points of cold air, thereby providing maximum thermal insulation.

Advantages :

• high level of heat resistance;
• the material quickly becomes hard, which instantly stops heat loss;
• laid flat, without seams or fasteners;
• does not contain chemicals, safe for health;
• protects the coating from mechanical and other influences;
• service life - from 30 years with proper use.

To implement proper insulation, need to know detailed technology and act in strict accordance with all stages of the thermal insulation process.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a cabin

Owners sometimes carry out thermal insulation of their cabins themselves. Simple technology insulation allows even an inexperienced person to correctly fix the thermal insulation material; the main thing is to follow the main points and first consult with an expert.

Thermal insulation of the cabin from the outside

In order for the insulation of walls to be successful and without additional costs, the owners carefully monitor the sequence of work carried out. Thermal insulation of the outer side of the outbuilding begins with the installation of a layer vapor barrier material. For this purpose, materials such as polyethylene film, foil and others are used.

The main task of the vapor barrier layer is to ensure maximum ventilation of the façade of the building. If the surface for installation is too smooth, fasten the slats vertically, with their help the vapor barrier material will be held in place.

Now we begin to install the thermal insulation. Experts recommend using mineral wool or fiberglass products. For optimal protection of the building, two layers with a thickness of 10 centimeters each are enough, although when insulating a cabin for living in winter, an additional layer is fixed. Mineral wool does not need special attachment to the main surface: due to its rigidity, the slabs fit tightly to the vertical slats. Gaps and continuous joints are not allowed between them.

A special film is mounted on the heat insulator to provide waterproofing, which will prevent moisture from getting inside. Waterproofing material secured by furniture stapler. The film is overlapped by 10 centimeters to ensure maximum protection, the joints are sealed with special tape.

Internal thermal insulation

The next stage is insulation interior spaces cabins. Each owner of an outbuilding chooses the methods of insulation independently. Cotton insulation is common among insulators for internal thermal insulation of utility buildings. It is environmentally friendly and safe. This material is difficult to cut, so the work will take quite a lot of time. Some owners use thermal insulation materials similar to products for external insulation.

When installing insulation, it is important to remember to install vents to quickly remove condensate that forms. Vents are located at the top and bottom of the wall. To enhance thermal insulation, the insulation is covered with a special material - penofol. Its surface creates a “thermos effect”.

Thermal insulation using penofol

To carry out high-quality insulation penofol is fixed in solid parts, which significantly reduces the number of joints between pieces. All seams formed are carefully sealed with special tape to ensure maximum tightness.

To ensure maximum heat conservation, experts advise insulating the floor and ceiling. The whole process is similar to thermal insulation, which was described earlier. After completion of work on internal insulation think over aesthetic design. Sheets of plasterboard are attached to the insulation, which level the surface and improve the quality of sound insulation. The fasteners are self-tapping screws and dowels. Instead of gypsum boards, fiberboards are sometimes used. Last stage– finishing of the cabin according to the owner’s preferences.

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