Subfloors have several types depending on their purpose and installation method. First, you should consider their features and differences, and then talk in detail about the construction method. As always, we will use an example to consider the most complex option; if it becomes clear, then it will be much easier to make simpler subfloors.

1. According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing properties: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet boards or piece parquet. In these cases, subfloors absorb loads and distribute them evenly over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base; this name is used by inexperienced builders, but has the right to life.
2. Under the logs. The lags are fixed at the bottom cranial bars, they serve as the basis for fastening the subfloor, insulation and vapor and waterproofing.
3. Along load-bearing beams. In our opinion the most good option, but it needs to be thought through at the design stage wooden house. Why do we think this?

   The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values ​​and thickness values ​​are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install the floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. These same beams will serve as joists. What will happen as a result? Significant savings in materials.

   If you calculate the amount of timber for beams and joists in the traditional construction option, then the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices for natural, high-quality materials (and only the highest quality lumber is used for this work) high quality) in monetary transfers, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another definite plus is the increase in height interior spaces, with a log height of within ten centimeters this is a noticeable increase.

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, except if it serves as the basis for installing finishing floor coverings. These can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on one floor. They will lay on it thermal insulation materials, for them minor differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards must be sanded; wood pests breed under the bark.

Second important point for all subfloors – protection against negative influence moisture. Currently there are quite a few in implementation effective antiseptics, with which you need to impregnate the boards at least twice.

Important. Before impregnation, the lumber must be dried. The lower the relative humidity, the more antiseptics they absorb, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - no problem. Just sand the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Treat the ends of the subfloor boards with particular care. Inattention to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on the supporting elements, and then use a brush to treat two surfaces, forgetting about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the most large number moisture, in this place all the capillaries of the wood are open.

And one last thing. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have effective natural ventilation. The subfloor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but also the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of rodents entering through the air, place them on metal gratings. If it seems to you that in winter the floors in the rooms on the first floor are very cold due to the vents (and this may be the case), then close them during the cold period. But be sure to open all the vents as it gets warmer. Ventilation, by the way, prerequisite durability of the lower crowns of the log house.

Practical advice. Use smoke or a lighter to check the effectiveness of the products. Bring it up open fire to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to air currents. Poor air movement - take immediate action to increase ventilation efficiency.

How to make a subfloor in a wooden house

Let's consider one of the most complex options– installation of subfloors on joists without floor beams. This gender is often found in small rooms a private house or in cases of peculiarities of log house construction technology, when floor beams were not used.

Important. Be sure to soak all lumber twice with an antiseptic and dry it well before doing this.

Step 1. Marking. Along the perimeter of the room using water or laser level make a zero mark. This will be the finished floor level. You need to minus the thickness from this mark finishing coating and lag. Make a second mark; the supports for the joists should be located at this level. They can be made from concrete, blocks or bricks. There must be concrete in the ground; only the above-ground part is allowed to be laid with bricks.

Step 2. Make supports in any way; the distance between them should take into account the linear parameters of the log and total load on the floor

Step 3. Place all the logs under the rope, do not forget to insulate them with two layers of roofing material.

Practical advice. If possible, nail the entire length of the joist at the bottom long boards, their width should be 6–8 cm greater than the width of the logs. The subfloor will be laid on these projections. Doing this is much faster and easier than fixing cranial bars on both sides of the lag in an awkward position and cramped conditions. Of course, the thickness of the boards should be taken into account when marking the position of the support posts.

Step 4. Secure the joists. For this you can use metal corners and fix them to the walls of the log house.

Do not forget to leave a gap of approximately 1–2 cm between the walls and the ends of the joists; take metal corners with oblong slots to ensure free longitudinal sliding. Tighten the screws in such a way that the logs can move in the slots. For reliability, it is recommended to attach the logs with dowels through at least one post; the side of the corner fixed to the log must also be movable.

Step 5. Prepare the material for the subfloor.

We have already mentioned that in our case all the scraps are suitable, some can be covered with plywood or OSB, and some with pieces of boards or unedged materials. It is desirable that the sheets of plywood and OSB be moisture-resistant; if they are not, then soak them with drying oil or an antiseptic.

Step 6. Check the distance between the joists. If it is the same, then all the workpieces can be cut to a standard length.

Practical advice. It's much faster to work with a template. Cut one board to size; it should fit between the joists with a gap. With this template, go along the entire length of the joists. The dimensions are correct - use this piece as a template when cutting the rest of the pieces. Remember that measurements should only be taken from the template, and not from fresh cut boards. If you use a new piece each time, then errors will accumulate, and they will certainly occur, and the final boards may differ significantly from the required dimensions.

Step 7 Place the boards on the prepared shelves. We have already mentioned that these can be like joists nailed below wide boards, and the cranial bars installed later on both sides. You should not try to make the subfloor continuous; small gaps do not affect anything. In order to save materials, it is recommended to specifically leave a distance of 5–8 centimeters between individual boards. But this can only be done in cases where pressed mineral wool or foam boards are used as insulation.

Step 8. Steam and waterproofing. If you have extra money and time, you can install hydro- and vapor barriers in any case.

If you don’t want to act rashly, then figure out why such protection is needed. Mineral wool has excellent heat-saving properties, does not rot, and does not promote the proliferation of microorganisms, including fungi. This is great, but she has two very significant shortcomings. The first one is upon promotion relative humidity thermal conductivity indicators increase sharply. Water conducts heat perfectly; there is no need to talk about any heat-protective functions. Secondly, it takes a very long time to dry. This means that all adjacent wooden elements will constantly be exposed to high humidity. There is no need to explain what the result of such conditions is.

If you are doing insulation on the ground floor mineral wool, then vapor barrier is required. It will prevent moisture from the ground from penetrating into the thermal insulation. If foam-based materials are used as thermal insulation, then such vapor barrier is unnecessary, these materials do not absorb water.

Now about waterproofing. In any case, the subfloor below does not need to be covered with such materials; there are no “gushing” sources in the underground. But after thermal insulation is laid on the subfloor, it is necessary to protect it from moisture penetration from the finished floor. This applies to all types of materials, mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing protects not only them from water, but also the subfloor boards and joists.

Insulating layer over mineral wool

Subfloor for “soft” floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs or concrete foundations are leveled. Such floors are used under laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are sheet plywood, OSB or fiberboard; all materials must be waterproof.

The screed must be level, the difference in height cannot exceed ±2 mm.

There are two ways to lay a subfloor over a screed: on slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant unevenness and it is necessary to lay utility networks or make additional insulation.

Align concrete covering using slats is much easier and faster than re-tying using cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing must be placed between the slats and the screed; the height of the slats is leveled with various pads and fixed with dowels. The subfloor slabs are nailed down; the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side edges should be located in the middle of the rail; two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that the four corners do not meet in one place; this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finishing floor covering.

The second option for laying a subfloor on a screed is used on on level grounds, not requiring additional insulation. To achieve an ideal surface, construction adhesive can be used. It is spread with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with the screed. Further, the algorithm for installing the floor depends on the materials used.

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this purpose, special or homemade hammers are used. If according to subfloor If you plan to lay linoleum, it is recommended to sand the entire surface with an electric machine.

Putty plywood floor

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent passage bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.

Video - Construction of a subfloor

Wooden floors on joists are one of the oldest methods of flooring and the only one used in the northern regions of our country. Modern materials They have only improved ancient technologies, due to which the scope of application has significantly expanded and performance indicators have improved. Before proceeding directly to consideration various options, you should familiarize yourself a little with the engineering requirements for calculations.

Logs are distinguished from beams by their smaller size and mobility. If beams cannot be moved after installation and repairs are very long and labor-intensive, then logs are a mobile architectural element. They are much easier to install and, if necessary, repairs are carried out faster.

Before you start building a floor, you need to study the requirements regulatory documents to the size of the joists and the distance between them, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards.

Table of lag sections at a pitch of 70 cm

Table of distance between joists depending on the thickness of the board

In order to learn how to independently make calculations based on tables, it will be useful to consider simplest example. Initial data: the length of the room is 10 m, take a floorboard 30 mm thick.

Calculation method

According to the table, with such a thickness of the board, the distance between the logs is 50 cm; with a room length of 10 m, 20 logs will be needed. The distance between the logs and the walls cannot exceed 30 cm. This means that we will have to increase their number by one piece, the distance between the others will decrease to 45 centimeters.

Important note. During calculations, all roundings should be done only downwards, thus creating an additional margin of safety.

There is no need to calculate dimensions and distances accurate to the millimeter; no one takes such measurements. By the way, during construction the absolute majority architectural elements and structures are measured in centimeters, the greatest accuracy is half a centimeter. Millimeters are almost never used during measurements.

Floor subfloor options

These types of floors can be installed on a wooden or concrete base or on the ground. Each option has its own technological features, which must be kept in mind during work. As for the specific purpose of the premises, taking this parameter into account, the base of the floor and its performance characteristics. The technology of the device itself remains almost unchanged. There are, of course, options for warm and cold floors, but these features also have a common construction algorithm.

Installation of a wooden floor on joists on wooden bases

Such floors can be made in both wooden and brick buildings and can have several varieties. The features of flooring need to be considered at the building design stage. Not only the purpose of each room and its dimensions are taken into account, but also climate zone accommodation, microclimate requirements and financial capabilities of the developer. Below are given step-by-step recommendations construction of this type of flooring.

Depending on specific conditions The algorithm can be slightly modified, but all main construction operations must be completed. The base can be moisture-resistant OSB boards or sheets of plywood. The design of the floor coverings provides for the possibility of laying insulation; the use of rolled and pressed glass wool or polystyrene foam is allowed. If there are insulation materials, then you should definitely install hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of joists, taking into account the above recommendations. Prepare materials and tools, make markings. Do the work slowly; mistakes made at this stage are extremely negative consequences. Eliminating them will take a lot of time.

Step 2. Start installing the logs from the outer wall ones. If the room has subfloors, then the joists can be fixed directly to them. To make work easier, it is better to use metal squares with perforations; such elements significantly speed up work and increase the stability of the joists. Using the mark on the wall, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards, align one end of the joist and fix its position.

Practical advice. When installing the outer joists, do not fix them immediately; first, you should only tighten the screws. This will allow you to make final fine adjustments.

Do the same actions at the second end of the log, constantly monitor its level position. Once the lag lays down normally, you can firmly fasten the ends and begin installing intermediate fasteners. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for the logs; it is approximately 70 centimeters.

Step 3. You need to stretch the ropes between the outermost joists; place all the remaining joists along this line. Constantly check with a level; installation accuracy should be ±1–2 mm. There is no point anymore, it takes a lot of extra time. A small difference in height will be removed during finishing of the front surface of the floorboards.

Step 4. If the floors are warm, then you need to lay thermal insulation between the joists; waterproofing and vapor barriers are used to prevent moisture from entering. The distances between the logs must be adjusted taking into account the length and width of the insulation. This can be either mineral wool or polystyrene foam, or bulk types of insulation. If everything preparatory work completed, you can begin laying the floorboards.

There are options for installing joists on floor beams. These are so-called ventilated floors and are most often used for non-residential premises. There is no need to be particularly precise; size alignment is done using lags. The logs are attached to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws from the side. The algorithm of work is the same. First, the extreme ones are placed, a rope is pulled between them and all the others are fixed along it.

Ventilation is carried out through special vents in the foundations; the distance between the ground and the floor must be at least fifty centimeters. Otherwise, the air exchange rate does not meet the required indicators, and this causes damage to wooden structures.

Installation of floors on wooden joists on concrete

Such floors are considered more complex, labor-intensive and expensive; all wooden structures must be reliably protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the structures will quickly become unusable and will have to be replaced prematurely. Eat chemical method protecting lags from rotting processes using various impregnations. They are quite effective and actually prevent the process of wood deterioration. But unfortunately, impregnated wooden structures can no longer be considered environmentally friendly, and it is for this indicator that most developers install natural wooden floors.

If the logs are laid over the entire area on concrete, then waterproofing is required between them.

But they can also be secured using metal squares, which allows you to create a gap between the base and the joist. It must be borne in mind that in this case the load-bearing characteristics of the floor are somewhat reduced.

This fixation method has its advantages. Firstly, direct contact of wooden structures with concrete ones is completely excluded. Secondly, logs can also be installed on a black screed. With the help of corners you can eliminate irregularities of several centimeters; there is no need to finishing screed. This saves a lot of time and money.

The second installation method concrete screed– the logs are placed directly on it; a material based on modified bitumen is used for insulation.

Laying logs on the ground

The method is used for outbuildings, baths, gazebos, verandas, etc. Wood must be treated with antiseptics. It is better to have a columnar foundation; if you want to make a more durable strip foundation, then it is necessary to provide vents for natural ventilation in advance.

How is this floor made?

Step 1. Remove the topsoil. You can use it to fill the beds or level the area in front of the house.

Step 2. Mark the columns. The distance between them is selected taking into account the load and size of the logs. The posts can be made of concrete, block or prefabricated. The dimensions of the supports are approximately 40x40 cm, the burial depth is within 30 cm. A layer of sand ≈ 10 cm thick should be poured onto the bottom and compacted.

Step 3. Fill the supports with concrete. To prepare concrete, you should use two parts crushed stone and three parts sand for one part of cement. Water is added as needed. There is no need to make formwork in the ground; formwork from boards or OSB scraps is installed above the ground level. During the manufacture of formwork, you need to use a level; all edges must be strictly vertical.

Practical advice. It is much easier to make columns from ready-made blocks. Horizontal alignment must be done along the rope. After the outer ones are aligned with the hydraulic level, a rope is pulled between them. Deviations should not exceed ± 1 cm. This variation is eliminated during installation of the log.

Step 4. Proceed to fixing the lags; you also need to start work from the outermost ones. For precise horizontal alignment, you can use shims. It is not advisable to take wedges made of wood; over time, they will dry out and wobble will appear: the floor will begin to creak unpleasantly when walking. Between wooden structures And concrete surfaces It is imperative to lay two layers of roofing felt for reliable waterproofing.

Step 5. After the outermost logs are laid, a rope is stretched between them and all the remaining ones are laid under it. The logs are fixed with metal squares on dowels and screws. To increase stability, it is recommended to install them on both sides. Floor boards can be laid directly on the joists or a subfloor can be laid first. The final choice depends on the characteristics of the operation and purpose of the room.

Always select joists with a safety margin, especially in cases where the installation method involves bending loads. It must be remembered that correcting mistakes made during the construction of floor coverings is always much more expensive than carrying out the work quality materials and in compliance with recommended technologies.

Choose your joist boards carefully. They must be absolutely healthy without signs of rot. The presence of through cracks and rotten knots is completely prohibited. If there are large healthy through knots, then you need to install the joists in such a way that there is a stop under them.

When attaching the logs, do not allow the possibility of wobbling.

Most loose joists cause very unpleasant squeaks in the flooring while walking. To eliminate such phenomena, you will have to remove floor coverings; this is time-consuming and expensive; it is not always possible to keep the dismantled materials in a suitable condition. reuse condition.

Video - Installation of wooden floors along joists

When the initial stages of construction have come to an end and the walls have already been erected and the roof is in place, interior work begins.

At this point, they begin to arrange the floors. To do everything right, you need to provide protection to the finishing coating.

Wooden house

This is why a subfloor is installed in a wooden house. it is designed for insulation and additional protection main floor.

You don’t have to use a subfloor on joists if it is country house, in which the family lives only in the summer, or summer kitchen. The question is whether flooring is needed wooden beams, a kind of rhetorical – master in in this case based on its requirements and capabilities.

Laying a subfloor in a room will save on heating costs, since the timber that is installed under the floor additionally retains heat. In addition, if you make a subfloor in a wooden house, you can count on natural ventilation, and protection from moisture that comes from the soil.

The subfloor will also improve sound insulation in the room.

Subfloor

Preliminary work

The main element of the structure is the logs. They are a beam or board up to 5 cm thick. In order for the floor to be of high quality and withstand loads, the boards and logs themselves must be securely fastened.

Attention! When laying, the logs must extend onto the base by at least 10 centimeters. In addition, a gap is left taking into account the fact that the timber expands with changes in temperature and humidity.

If the base is too narrow, the joists are cut into the wall. The arrangement can be done in another way: on a short distance make a brick base for support beams. The made column will become a support on the concrete base.

To ensure the flooring lasts a long time, it is important to use well-dried wood. The timber is also pre-treated with a special antiseptic. It is recommended to impregnate the material in two passes with an interval of several hours to protect it from rotting.

Laid joists

Preparing the base

The logs are mounted with their ends on the base, but before starting this action, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete and a strapping is performed, for which a thin board is used. The ends of the logs must be firmly fixed with metal corners. In no case should the fastening be made rigid, since the ceiling must “breathe” and at the same time not change the structure after sharp changes temperatures and humidity.

Important! If in the future it is planned to install a fireplace, piano, or heavy furniture in the room, then the distance between the joists is reduced.

The gap that appears between the joists and the wall is filled using a special soft material for thermal insulation.

Subfloor in a wooden house

To install the subfloor, a low-quality board is used, since it is not visible. But at the same time, even low-grade boards are pre-treated by special means. For a high-quality result, it is not difficult to take a plane and trim the timber.

Beam for lag device

In addition to boards, chipboards or plywood are used to construct the subfloor. Roofing felt is used for waterproofing. If you make a subfloor with your own hands, it is recommended to build on the individual aspects of the room and material capabilities.

Installation of a high-quality subfloor in a wooden house

The lower part of the log is equipped with a beam, and the floor subsequently rests on this structure.

Typically, flooring is a board that is thoroughly dried beforehand. The boards are driven towards each other using a hammer, and no other fasteners are used for this.

Batten

Waterproofing is laid on the ceiling with a margin extending to the walls, which is subsequently cut off. Fastening occurs using metal brackets.

The next layer is a special membrane. It must be solid and end directly at the base of the wall. The joints are connected with tape. To ensure ventilation, a beam with a cross section of 5 × 5 centimeters is driven in.

In general, the question of how to make a subfloor has been sorted out, but remains last stage– laying finishing flooring. To make the floor beautiful and attractive, whatever top material you choose, secure it carefully with self-tapping screws. The main condition here is not beauty, but a macroscopic surface, so that the arrangement of the top layer is as simple and problem-free as possible.

What indicators to pay attention to when purchasing timber or beams

• The material must be processed before sale special composition, which prevents moisture;
• To prevent the floor from deteriorating prematurely, the timber is treated with a pest control compound;
• The board must be well dried. otherwise, during operation the material will be deformed;
• For the installation of a subfloor, it is recommended to give preference coniferous species, such timber will not rot over time due to high level resin

Dry screed under the subfloor

If the house has concrete floors, they are leveled using a dry screed. This method is less expensive and takes less time than other options.

Dry screed with expanded clay

Attention! To make a dry screed yourself, prepare the tools in advance and purchase materials that are available to everyone today in construction stores.

Preparation

For something already ready concrete base Lay a polyethylene film with an overlap of 15 cm. Scotch tape is used to secure the edges. After the completed manipulations, beacons are set. This is done using a water level, and the height is set wooden blocks, adding and removing which, we get the desired height.

Then expanded clay is poured in and, using a rule, it is carefully leveled installed beacons. There is no need to work with the entire floor at once; it is better to pour the material over the area equal to leaf plywood.

Laying plywood sheets on expanded clay

After the first sheet is laid, beginners begin to doubt whether they did it correctly. Therefore, you need to stand on the plywood and walk around a little. Initially, the impression of a “sinking” floor will be created. But such doubt arises only among those who encounter dry screed for the first time. Do not be afraid, because after laying subsequent sheets it will become clear that the screed is effective and the sheets are in their places.

To attach the sheets, use self-tapping screws; they are fastened at a distance of 10 cm from each other. And for greater confidence in reliability, the joints are additionally treated with glue. It is better to apply the glue in “waves”, in a small layer.

At the final stage, the joints are treated with putty; after drying, the surface is sanded and leveled.

Installation of plywood sheets

Attention! If the screed of this type used for a bathroom or other room with high humidity, remember about additional processing composition for waterproofing. For these purposes, mastic or elastic solution is used.

And in conclusion...

Arranging a subfloor is not a difficult task, so you can do everything yourself. It is important to choose carefully from the beginning wood materials to cover and process them well. If the initial rough design is done correctly, then the floor itself will delight the owners for many years.

Ventilation holes (vents) must be provided in the base, which are subsequently covered with a special mesh. Air movement will prevent the wood from gaining moisture and protect it from mold and fungi.

Professional installation of a subfloor is shown in the video:

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From the author: Hi all! When we hear something touching wood, e.g. wooden house, wooden furniture or a wooden floor, associations with warmth, comfort and ecological naturalness immediately arise in our heads. If we are faced with a choice between wood and plastic, between wood and stone, we will always choose wood. It’s not for nothing that many people set out to bring into their lives as many things as possible from this wonderful material. Some have already made their dreams come true by building a wooden house, while others are just planning this step. But it will be useful for both to know how to lay a subfloor on wooden beams.

Subfloor concept

The subfloor is a kind of frame, the skeleton of the floor. It contains insulating elements and other materials that give the coating the required characteristics. Let's list what it consists of:

• support beams;
• logs;
• crock beam;
• lower rough flooring;
• sound insulation;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• top rough flooring.

In certain cases, you can do without some elements, but it all depends on the desired end result. Also, the subfloor is the basis for a finishing coating, for example, for parquet, laminate or boards, which will later be polished. It comes in two types: single or double.

• single - used mainly in apartments. Made from logs covered with plywood or chipboard sheets;
• double also consists of logs, crock blocks, first and second floors. It is used in private homes where there is a need for insulation or sound insulation.

Components for covering the rough flooring can be chipboards, plywood, OSB board. A material such as fiberboard has also begun to gain popularity. It has excellent properties and is perfect for making bottom flooring. Fiberboard does not support combustion, does not transmit sound waves well, is an excellent insulation material, frost-resistant and moisture-resistant. Components of this material are wooden fibers, “hairs”, impregnated with a solution of durable cement.

How to choose wood?

This task must be taken seriously, because not only the lifespan of the floor, but also the entire house will depend on the correct choice. When choosing wood, you should focus on the following important aspects:

Installation of rough covering

Before we begin installing the rough coating, let's take a closer look at the method of its manufacture.

1. For the logs, timber of the second or third grade is purchased; it has significant surface defects, which must be removed before use with a jointing machine or with hand tools- chisel, mallet, axe, plane.
2. Then, all wood must be treated with an antiseptic. You should not save on these compounds, but it is better to repeat the treatment several times. Ignore the advice of “economists” who will tell you not to do this or to treat it with machine or transformer oil. You will ruin the tree forever, it will emit a pungent odor, and soon it will completely deteriorate.

There are two types of subfloors: for installation on the floor, that is, for the manufacture of floors between floors, and for installation along the base - for the first floor.

Flooring is one of the most important tasks, which future owners face when building a house. The floor design may vary. 2 possible options:

• floor on wooden beams;
• floor with joists.

Most often, preference is given to flooring with joists, as it is easier to lay. However, constructing a floor using wooden beams has a number of advantages over constructing a floor using joists. Beams are an important functional element of the structure of a wooden house. If the floor spreads along them, then the house acquires additional stability, since the beam beams are built into load-bearing walls. However, this is the only drawback of such a floor arrangement. By means of beams built into the frame, any mechanical impact on the floor is reflected on the load-bearing walls.

In addition, the advantages of installing a floor on beams include low material costs, since there is no need to make a lower floor under the floor, as well as the low weight of the material used. Moreover, if you build a frame for the floor that does not have points of contact with the walls of the house, then the only drawback of this design will be eliminated.

How to install a beam into a brick wall?

First of all, it is necessary to determine the required number and cross-sectional size of the beams. As a rule, beams with a section of 15x15 cm or 20x20 cm are used. The distance between them should be no more than 60 cm. Such a structure will have the necessary strength and stability.

IN brick house, in which it is lined with bricks upper part foundation, the beams must be sealed tightly into the walls. This must be provided for at the stage of laying brick walls. Sockets are left in the required places for installing beams. To prevent the edges of the beams that will be located in the nests from rotting, it is necessary to line the openings under them with 2 layers of roofing material, and the ends of the beams must be treated with a fire-retardant compound. It is recommended to apply similar compounds to all wooden elements of the structure. The ends should not be coated with a compound that would prevent the wood from breathing. If this is not provided for, then condensation will accumulate on the wooden elements. Resin should not be applied to the ends.

If the openings in the wall larger section wooden elements, then the space remaining free must be filled with insulation (for example, foam plastic or mineral wool) or cement mortar. It is necessary to take into account that between the timber and the walls of the nests in brick wall There should be an air gap of 3-5 cm. The timber is not attached to the brick. Minimum permissible distance between load-bearing wall and the first beam - 5 cm. Their supporting part must be at least 15 cm, and the depth of the opening in the wall - 18 cm.

It is necessary to provide for cutting the end of the beam at the desired angle. This angle is 60°. In addition, the end is laid so that the cut in the upper part is at a greater distance from the wall of the opening than in the lower part. That is, the lower edge of the beam should be as close as possible to the brickwork.

Installation of beams in a wooden or frame house

The beams of the lower floor during the construction of a frame or wooden house are laid in a different way than in brickwork. If we're talking about O frame structure, then the lower floor beams are mounted on bottom harness Houses. The beams are attached to the bottom frame with nails.

Building a house from logs or timber involves cutting openings in the wall for floor beams. These openings must be treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, the beams that make up the lower ceiling must be located at a distance of at least 40 cm from the base of the stove and chimney.

Laying the floor on the ceiling

For beam floor exist certain rules laying flooring.

1. You need to attach bars to each floor beam on both sides. They will serve to fit the flooring closely. Can be used as flooring gypsum boards, boards and more. The flooring must be built at the level of the lower plane of the floor beams.
2. Waterproofing work needs to be done on top of the flooring. To do this, you can use a solution of sand and clay, which will be spread on the flooring, or roofing felt. Waterproofing is designed to protect the insulation.
3. To insulate the floor, tile materials, slag or sawdust can be used.
4. After completing all the work described above, you can begin to lay the covering. The floor is most often made of planed boards. Their thickness should be at least 3.5 cm. If you first lay logs on the beams, an additional air gap will be created that will provide ventilation.