Despite the development of technology, for most residents, heating with a stove is the best option. Products that operate on wood are installed in dachas and houses outside the city. You can build a structure without the help of specialists; armed with knowledge, tools and materials, you can build a stove with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a country stove

Heating stoves for summer cottages in most cases operate on the basis of convection heating of air. Today we can distinguish 3 main types of stoves: cast iron, metal and brick. Country house design has its advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantages of a stove for a summer residence:

1. Easy to install. The structure does not need to be connected to the water circuit. If you plan to heat a cottage with an area of ​​more than 200 m2, then you will need to connect the stove to a chimney device. There should not be any in the building interior walls ok, which can slow down air flows.
2. Possibility of cooking. Additionally, you can install a cooking surface on which you can heat and cook food, as well as boil water.
3. Fast warm-up. The small design can begin to immediately heat the air after loading fuel. This is achieved through the installation of a special device, which consists of convection tubes.
4. The stove does not need to be heated in winter period. It can only be used when heating is necessary.

The disadvantage is that such a stove can only heat one room or a small room.

Species

Today, the following types of structures are most often installed:

1. Cast iron stove. Used as an auxiliary heat source. It has a small-sized design, which allows its installation in any part of the dacha. The cast-iron construction heats up the room quite quickly, and the blower will retain heat for a long time.
2. Metal construction. Made from heat-resistant steel. The room heats up quickly, but thin metal does not allow it to retain heat for a long time.
3. Brick oven. The option is the leader in reliability, but is expensive. A specially designed spiral chimney can quickly heat the room and save heat long time. Heating of the room occurs more slowly than when using a metal product.

Oven with cooking surface

The choice is made based on the needs of the owner of the dacha.

Wood-burning stoves can be gas-generating or pyrolysis. The most popular types of designs are the Buleryan or Butakova stove. Such designs are able to provide continuous heat supply.

You can put a significant supply of firewood in the stove and turn on a mode in which one part of the fuel will burn, and the other will wait until its turn comes. This is achieved by closing the draft tube flap.

Butakov furnace design

Butakov and Buleryan stoves are heating structures air type. Quickly warming up the room is suitable for summer residents who occasionally visit their homes. If we compare it with typical wood-burning stoves, we can conclude that the gas generator device is more compact and economical. The disadvantages are the high requirements for the chimney design and fuel quality.

Which one is better to choose?

It is important to establish a balance between the heat transfer of the structure and the heat loss of the room. This can only be done by building quality stove. When choosing a design, it is important to remember that it must meet the following requirements:

• the stove should heat up evenly over the entire base;
• the device must provide in the room comfortable temperature with low fuel consumption;
• be simple and safe to use;
• distribute heat evenly into the room throughout the day;
• provide a maximum base temperature of up to 92–94°C;
• there should not be any gaps in the base through which smoke can enter the room;
• the larger the dimensions of the firebox, the longer the wood will burn;
• the stove should heat up as quickly as possible;
• the design must be fireproof.

1. If you have a gasified area, you can buy or make your own structure that uses gas as fuel.
2. If you plan to make a stove from brick, it is recommended to give preference to Swedish or Dutch designs.
3. A potbelly stove is made if it is not planned to devote special meaning appearance of the product. It has excellent characteristics and surpasses its competitors in almost everything.
4. It is better to take the firebox separately or design it so that the chimney fits into the room. You can choose a firebox that runs on biofuel.

An example of a finished potbelly stove made of cast iron

In most cases, install brick kilns for the dacha.

Design and features

The design of a brick cooking and heating stove will be considered, since it is quite often used in dachas. The design is not particularly complex, but it is possible to obtain increased productivity and efficiency.

The main details of a stove of this type:

1. Base. Any furnace drawing provides concrete floor or a separate foundation. The design must be designed to accommodate the construction of the stove body; it should not be common with the base of the walls and chimney.
2. Device body. Consists of a firebox and chimney. If you plan to build a stove for cooking, then it is advisable to take care of the installation oven and hob. As an addition, you can make a tank for heating the liquid.
3. Ash pit. With the help of this element, fuel combustion products are collected and air is supplied. The compartment is located at the bottom of the grate. It must be equipped with a door. In most cases, the height of such a chamber is 3 bricks.
4. Firebox. The main part of the stove, without which the structure cannot function. The element must accommodate a large amount of firewood. The size of the firebox can be different, it all depends on the type of fuel used, productivity and volume of the structure. If you plan to use firewood, then the height of this section should be 500–900 mm. The firebox is made of yellow brick. The minimum wall thickness is 1.5 bricks.
5. Chimney. Important detail brick stoves. It has the shape of a coil. Gases will pass through this part and heat the bricks from which the chimney is made. If you plan to build the structure yourself, then the number of turns and bends should be minimal. If this is not taken into account, then there will be resistance to the movement of gases from the firebox. As a result, the efficiency of heating the room will be reduced.

Stove with oven and cooking surface

Summer cottage stoves can operate in two modes. If you need to quickly heat the room, then the ash pan will need to be pulled out a few cm and the damper fully opened. To maintain the same temperature, use the long burning. To do this, you will need to close the blower dampers and pipes. In this case, the air supply to the firebox will be limited, and the draft will decrease. The amount of firewood that will be received will smolder required quantity air.

The other part of the fuel will warm up and release flammable gases. After a certain time in the firebox, which has a separate air supply, they will burn, releasing heat. A long-burning stove has a much higher efficiency than an ordinary one. After adding fuel, it will be possible to receive heat for a long time.

Firebox door of a brick stove

Calculation of basic parameters

Without proper calculation of parameters, build reliable design it won't work.

Determination of power and heat transfer

To determine heat losses in winter, you need to know the volume of the room, the dimensions and number of windows, doors, structural parameters of the walls, floor base and attic floor.

Determination of heat loss at home

1 m 3 internal volume corner room loses 60 kcal/h at a design temperature of 25°C. To determine which design is suitable for country house, you need to know the heat output of the stove. Each m 2 of the free base of the product produces approximately 500 kcal/h. If the stove occupies 1 m2 of floor area, then it can heat 35 m2 of living space in the building.

Below we will consider an example of calculating a stove for a four-room dacha 6x8 m. The height of the ceilings in the rooms will be 2.7 m. All rooms have been insulated. The stove is planned to be placed in the middle part of the room. The first step is to determine the heat loss of the entire building. To do this, the volume of the house must be multiplied by 60 (the amount of heat loss per hour per 1 m3). If you round it up, you get 7800 kcal/hour. The resulting number is an indicator of the heat loss of the building. Accordingly, a stove with a heat output of at least 8000 kcal/hour will be needed.

Stove in the middle of the room

A slight excess of a certain heat transfer over the calculated heat loss is a margin that is important to take into account when manufacturing stoves. If you know the volume of the room and take into account that a stove occupying 1 m2 of floor area can heat 32–35 m2 of a living room, then you can easily determine the design parameters. Regardless of what type of stove is chosen, you should try to reduce the size of the firebox and chimney pipes.

The power of the product is proportional to the volume of the firebox, it can be calculated using the following formula:

Furnace power = 0.5 x V, where V is the volume of the firebox. A standard stove with a firebox volume of 30 liters most often has a power of 16–18 kW.

Selection of fuel and material for production

Another important parameter- material of manufacture. The service life of the structure will depend on the quality of the brick, cast iron or metal. Cast iron is a good material, but it is now rarely used. If you plan to use metal, you should remember that it must be thick. Laying brick stoves is a real art. It is worth noting that today it is quite difficult to find good specialist. You can make such a design yourself, but it is important to follow the diagram exactly.

It is worth remembering that brick ovens are difficult to light, they take a long time to heat up, and their construction requires a separate foundation. It is the foundation construction stage that is the most difficult and costly.

Covering the base of the stove with bricks

The next important parameter is the type of fuel. Firewood is not the only option; gas or electric devices are also in demand today. The main advantage is that the combustion result will not depend on the quality of the fuel or the skills of the stoker. However, installation gas stove may only be performed by a qualified specialist.

It is important to decide on the type of construction. Among Russian stoves, Kuznetsov’s products and “Dutch” or “Swedish” stoves are very popular. Kuznetsov furnaces have special design, which allows warm and cold vapors to move so that the efficiency of the product reaches 85–90%. The advantages also include the absence of soot and minimal stove maintenance. Today there are more than 150 ready-made schemes for such a structure. One of them is shown in the figure:

Kuznetsov stove drawing

The “Swedish” is an independent cooking and heating structure, and the “Dutch” can be used exclusively as an addition. Advantages of a Swedish oven:

• ability to cook food;
• high-quality heating of the building;
• built-in oven.

The drawing of the “Swede” is shown in the figure:

Drawing of a Swedish stove, where 1 is a channel for rising, 2 is a pocket of warm steam, 3 is a horizontal channel, 4 is a channel for lowering, 5 is a cover, 6 is an exhaust pipe

Determining the size of the firebox recess, the width and height of the element

It is important to correctly determine the size of the combustion chamber. To do this, you will need to measure the room in which the stove will be installed. The first step is to determine the size of the combustion hole. The ratio of the recess to the area of ​​the room is 1:50. As an example, we will consider a room with an area of ​​20 m2. The calculation will be as follows: 20/50 = 0.4 m2. This will be the size of the firebox opening. This data will need to be included in the drawing.

Example of a drawing indicating the firebox

Next, you will need to calculate the width and height, it is worth noting that the height to width is 2:3. In our example, the dimensions will be 51x77 cm. The data is checked as follows: 51 x 77 = 3927 m2. Accordingly, the obtained value corresponds to the calculations.

The next step is to calculate the dimensions of the portal. To do this, you need to determine its depth. This value affects traction. If you make a mistake when drawing up a drawing, this can lead to insufficient heating of the room or smoke.

The ratio of depth to height is 2:3. The height is 51 cm, so the depth calculation will be: (51 / 3) x 2 = 34 cm.

If you increase the depth, heat may begin to escape into the chimney pipe. If reduced, smoke may enter the room.

If for some reason you don’t want to do all the calculations yourself, you can use the table. It will allow you to determine the basic parameters so that you can draw up a drawing.

The table is shown in the figure below:

Basic parameters of the stove

Particular attention should be paid to calculating the size of the chimney. The design is calculated based on the area of ​​the portal part. The ratio of the chimney to the portal is 1:15.

It is worth noting that if there is no experience in drawing up a drawing, then it is recommended to entrust such work to qualified specialists or use a ready-made drawing.

Tools and materials that will be needed

You will need to prepare the following elements:

• brick;
• hammer;
• mountain sand without impurities;
• clay;
• doors;
• valves;
• metal staples;
• asbestos cord;
• butt;
• trowel;
• shovel for mortar;
• wooden slats.

The stove brick has dimensions of 230x114x40 mm. You can build a Dutch structure from it. The material is not suitable for a fireplace, as it absorbs only a small amount of heat and cools quickly. Accordingly, it can only be used for a fireplace in a summer cottage.

When laying the firebox, fireclay bricks should be used. Its advantage is high thermal conductivity combined with increased heat capacity. It is not recommended to build a stove entirely from fireclay bricks. The outer part of the masonry made of this material should be lined with ceramic bricks.

Which brick to choose for building a stove?

To check the quality of the material, you need to tap it with a hammer. If the sound is ringing or abrupt, this means that the brick can be used. High-quality material splits into large pieces upon impact, with virtually no dust being generated.

Internal elements are made of clinker bricks with increased heat resistance. Silicate material must not be used.

For a stove whose period of use is more than 10 years, mountain sand without impurities is required. If it is not possible to purchase it, you can use clay sand.

The elements are fixed using a solution of sand and clay. There are quite a lot of recipes, it makes sense to consider simple and high-quality ones. Ceramic bricks require the use of fire clay. For 100 bricks you need 40 kg of clay.

Tips for determining the readiness of the mixture for laying a stove

When purchasing clay, it is important to check its smell: if there is any, this indicates organic additives. Such clay cannot be used for laying a stove. At the next stage, you will need to determine the amount of sand in the mixture, since different types of clay have different fat content. For a sample, take 0.5–1 kg of clay powder, add water in a basin and leave the solution for 24 hours.

One package of clay will yield approximately 3-4 buckets of the finished mixture.

To properly carry out the laying, you should prepare a wooden plank 50x50 mm. On its sides you need to mark the row numbers for different types of bricks. It is important to consider the thickness of the seam. You will need to prepare at least 4 such devices.

Attaching the slats to the masonry

Instructions for use will be as follows:

1. The rows must be laid out in formwork.
2. The slats should be secured at the corners. This can be done using several staples with sharp ends.
3. You need to attach a cord to the devices, along which the masonry will be carried out.
4. Angles are verified by plumb lines.
5. During the laying process, the top bracket will need to be removed from the seam by rocking it.
6. The grooves from the staples can be filled with masonry mortar.

Additional slats are installed at the corners.

Preparatory work and site selection

Construction of the structure begins with choosing a suitable location. The stove must be installed with efficient heating in mind. There should be a wall located close to the product through which the chimney will be vented to the street. It is important to take into account the fact that the structure has considerable weight. If the floor in your dacha is made of wood, then you need to select a place where you can easily dismantle the floor base for pouring a concrete foundation.

Installation of a chimney through the wall of a house

If you install the stove in the middle part of the room, the heat transfer will be large, and the structure will be heated from all sides. In this case, heat is distributed evenly. When installing the product against a wall, cold air flows from windows and doors will actively move around the room.

If the product is intended to warm the air in a room, then it is best to install it in the wall of adjacent rooms. If you plan to cook food using the oven, you can choose a place near the kitchen.

Preparatory work includes the construction of a foundation. The base can be concrete or stone. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. Before pouring concrete structure formwork should be prepared.
2. Wood slats should be laid along the perimeter of the pit, and then secured with strong reinforcing rods.
3. After this you need to fill concrete mixture. Concrete is suitable grade M250.
4. When the solution is poured, the foundation must be allowed to dry and harden. The period is approximately 1–2 weeks.

After the concrete has dried, construction of the stove can begin.

Step-by-step instructions for making a stove for your summer cottage with your own hands

Before laying bricks, the building should be waterproofed. To do this, you need to lay a layer of roofing felt on the base.

The first row is laid with fireclay bricks, since the material does not react to the temperature in this part of the structure. At the bottom of the stove there is an ash compartment, so combustion and elevated temperatures in this place are not dangerous for the brick.

To assemble a high-quality structure, it is necessary to prepare an order. The finished version is shown in the figure below:

Brick kiln diagram

Step-by-step construction of this structure:

1. The starting row is the most important. The bricks are laid level, and the corners are controlled with a square. The first row needs to set the correct location of all other rows. A blower is placed in the front part of the structure, so three-quarter bricks are used for laying. To make it easier to remove ash, you will need to cut the brick in the direction of the chamber.
2. The next row begins with the installation of the blower doors.
3. The third row is laid out in accordance with the order. To make a proper blower, you will need to trim the brick from both sides. On this row the height of the blower doors should be reached.
4. The next row begins with left-hand masonry. First of all, the cleaning door is installed. The door needs to be sealed at the top. To make the ash pan shaped like a square, the bricks are chipped to fit the size of the recess.
5. The fifth row is laid out according to the order. At this stage the hole must be narrowed.
6. This row uses fire bricks. Before the grate, the material needs to be chipped. Between the masonry of this row and the grate you need to make a distance of 1.2–1.4 cm. Sand or ash will be placed in this hole.
7. The next row covers the U-shaped hole. At this stage you need to mount the firebox door.
8. The next two rows are laid out identically. The brick must be cut on both sides so that gases can flow smoothly from the firebox into the channel.
9. The next step is to use fire bricks. Layout is done vertically, and it is important to use a building level. A row is needed to install the cooking surface. The fire door must be placed at the top.
10. This series uses ceramic bricks. You will need to cover the cooking surface and cover the firebox. The brick must be cut so that there is a distance of several cm between the parts. A large door for the camera is being installed. The damper must be inserted into the installed part. Additionally, the fastening can be strengthened if necessary.
11. The left channels are connected into a rectangular structure.
12. The next row separates the channels.
13. A damper is being installed that will allow the cooking surface to operate autonomously.
14. The damper is closing. Next you need to close the doors of the cooking chamber. The door for ventilation is being installed.
15. The door should be closed. You will need to insert several steel rods above the cooking chamber.
16. The next two rows cover the cooking chamber.
17. The bricks are mounted “on edge”. The distance from the wall to the stacked parts is 4 cm. The cleaning door is being installed.
18. The next row is laid out in the same way as the previous one.
19. All doors are closed.
20. Elongated channels must be covered with masonry “on edge”.
21. The bricks must be placed at an identical distance from the walls of the furnace. Particular attention is paid to the seams.
22. The next row will need to block all the channels except the square-shaped structure. Several bricks need to be laid close to the wall, partially recessed and resting on parts that are installed on the edge.
23. The remaining channels are blocked. IN smoke passage you need to insert a metal bolt.
24. Several more rows are formed above the thermal compartments. This is needed for safe operation designs.

If you stick to the plan, there shouldn't be any problems.

How to line an iron stove with bricks?

The rows are stacked in checkerboard pattern half a brick. It is important to maintain the same distance between the brickwork and the iron screen. The optimal gap is 5 cm.

The process of lining an iron stove with bricks

It is recommended to soak bricks in liquid before laying. The seams are rubbing mortar. It is imperative to make ventilation holes so that air can circulate between the masonry and the iron walls. To do this, in the places of the holes, the brick should be laid with the end part forward. A mesh of reinforcing bars must be laid through each row.

The mixture dries in approximately 24 hours. Next, you can begin to clean the stove from stains of the mixture. An electric drill with a stiff brush attachment will help you complete the process. To eliminate stains, the structure should be washed with a brush dipped in soapy water.

Features of operation of country stoves and their cleaning

When using ovens, the following factors should be taken into account:

1. The room must be regularly ventilated.
2. The structure must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from objects that may ignite.
3. You need to make sure that the firebox is covered with a grate.
4. It is important to follow the kindling instructions.
5. Burning of rubber, plastic, flammable and caustic substances is not allowed.
6. It is necessary to carry out a preventive examination periodically.
7. The use of a faulty heating structure is not allowed.

This type of oven requires regular cleaning. The following elements are cleaned:

• door glass;
• chimney;
• firebox;
• surface of the heating product body.

Cleaning the stove from soot

Cleaning is done once a year. When the oven has completely cooled down, the ash should be removed from the ash compartment. The door glass is being wiped from the inside. To do this, you need to use a special cleaning mixture. The use of products containing abrasive substances is not allowed. It is important to regularly wipe the surface of the structure with a dampened cloth.

It’s not difficult to build a stove for your summer house with your own hands. To avoid mistakes, you need to stick to the scheme and use only high-quality materials.

Once upon a time, classic brick stoves for a home were a mandatory attribute and the only method of heating. Professional stove makers were in demand and respected. Today, there are many new means for heating premises that operate from different energy sources, from solid fuel to electricity. However, good stove makers remain in demand and the online request for “brick stoves for home drawings with instructions” remains frequent.

Some build stoves for a bathhouse, for a summer residence, or simply because their home is remote, which is why there is no alternative. Different types of stoves can perform a heating function; some models can be used to cook traditional dishes. Some are large in size, others are compact and quickly erected. Some are planned before the house is built, while others need to fit into an existing space. Stoves are ordered or made by hand in order to save money, others are built to fill the decor. In any case, all such equipment must be constructed from high-quality and suitable materials, in accordance with existing SNiP. You can find any drawings with instructions on the Internet, but you need to understand that building a stove for your home with your own hands will not be so easy.

Why does the brick kiln remain competitive, more and more being built, with so many advantages?

It would seem that today there are many alternatives for heating, which are much more convenient to use, and, according to manufacturers, have greater efficiency (coefficient useful action). But why are brick ones still in demand in some areas or buildings? One of the reasons is that a brick stove “breathes.”

This means that when the furnace warms up, moisture is released from the base of the structure. As it cools, moisture is absorbed back. Thanks to this, it maintains the normal dew point in the room. It is this indicator that indicates that “a cozy atmosphere is maintained in the house.”

The ability of a brick oven to “breathe” not only has a positive effect on human health, but also allows you to feel comfort even at a non-domestic level. When calculating a house's thermal engineering, temperature indicators in heating season are set between 18-20 Celsius. Air humidity should be optimal for health. The home stove provides optimal air humidity, with a heating temperature of about 16 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, a person does not feel discomfort; clothes and bedding remain dry. At the same time, in panel houses, when using centralized water heating, even at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius, excessive air humidity may be felt.

For water heating, the optimal temperature range will be 20-23 Celsius. And for electric heating with infrared emitters the temperature should be even higher (since they dry out the air greatly). It turns out that a brick oven with an efficiency index of about 50% will be more profitable in terms of savings than modern systems, with rates of 60-80%. Thus, the savings will be more significant, because the loss of heat in the house depends on the difference in temperatures inside and outside the room.

Selecting oven surface size

Before starting construction, you need to choose the type and model of the future structure. The main criteria for selection will not be its appearance and ease of construction, but heat transfer (the ability to heat the required area).

When choosing a location for its placement, you should know that side surfaces furnaces have the greatest heat transfer. This is a determining factor when choosing a location.

Different models have different shapes:

• Rectangular;
• In the form of the letter T;
• With a bed or kitchen equipment for cooking.

They can perform functions heating device For living rooms, or be a space divider.

For a small home area, you should not choose too massive structures; even if they have a wide range of functions, they will take up too much space and give off too much heat. To heat the entire furnace you need a lot of fuel, and the heat transfer will be too great.

The location of the stove relative to the living rooms is also important, and the insulation of the entire house is also a criterion.

Table of stove sizes, taking into account the area of ​​the room

The structure of a stove for the home, stoves for the home of the classical design

The oven consists of 3 main parts. The body of the stove, the foundation and the chimney leading to the roof.

Furnace diagram example:

The oven consists of:

1. Foundations - foundation;
2. Waterproofing material;
3. Shantsy. They are holes, they are made to create heating in the lower part of the room. They serve as “legs” in the structure;
4. Blower;
5. The opening of the air channel helps to warm up the room over the entire height;
6. Blower door;
7. Grate grate;
8. Kindling door;
9. Furnace part;
10. Vault of the combustion part;
11. “Hailo” (Sometimes they call it Hailo vertical part fireboxes with nozzle);
12. Door for cleaning;
13. Strangler Pass;
14. Dushnik;
15. Valves that regulate the direction of travel;
16. Convector channel;
17. A valve that closes the chimney after heating the stove. Close it after heating so that the oven does not cool down.
18. Exhaust door;
19. Chimney hole;
20. Cover (top of the furnace);
21. Cutting the chimney under the ceiling;
22. Overlap;
23. Chimney on the roof (otter or fluff).

Foundation

The foundation for the stove is made separately from the general foundation of the house. Use ordinary reinforced concrete strip foundation. Insulation is laid on it in several layers of roofing material, and on top of them is a sheet of asbestos. Asbestos is covered with an iron sheet (preferably cast iron, but it is very expensive, regular will do roofing metal), and the top is covered with felt. The felt bedding is pre-moistened, laid on the foundation and allowed to dry. Only after this do they begin laying. The bedding itself is needed to ensure that the foundation does not absorb all the thermal energy of the furnace. In simple words, “so that the heat does not go into the ground.”

Masonry base

The base of the masonry is made in oblique shading from simple red brick, on cement-sand mortar. This part is located under the firebox and will not experience high thermal loads. The firebox is made of red ceramic bricks, combined with fireproof (fireclay) material. A clay mixture with sand (sometimes with the addition of fireclay) is used.

A sheet of metal and asbestos is laid in front of the blower door. The thickness of the asbestos layer should be about 5 mm. Its edges should be laid in the masonry of the stoves. The removal of the metal sheet is at least 250 mm. The edges are tucked in, pushing them towards the floor.

Unlike cement-sand mortar, a mixture of clay and sand dries out rather than setting. Therefore, with constant exposure to moisture (especially in winter), the solution becomes wet. For this reason, some part of the furnace that is not tested high temperatures(up to 300 degrees Celsius), placed on a cement-sand mortar. Portland cement grade 400 and quartz quarry sand are used.

To ensure the accumulation of soot in the lower part of the channels, the edges of the transitions are made rounded. Each new channel must be higher in height than the first (lower transition). It is much easier to remove soot from the lower channels.

Chimney

It is laid out from red ceramic bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar. Such bricks are cheaper than fireclay bricks, and the mortar is much stronger. We must not forget about cutting the chimney inside the apartment (in the ceilings). The cutting performs fire-fighting functions. A thick layer of bricks warms up more slowly in the event of a soot fire, and thus transfers less heat load to the ceiling.

The upper chimney pipe (otter), which is located above the roof, performs decorative functions and is a side for drainage of precipitation. The draft in the furnace will depend on the height of the pipe.

Place for a stove in the house

It will depend on where the stove is installed efficient work. The best location would be the intersection of all the walls in the house. With no larger area, it will be possible to effectively heat the entire space. The closer the oven is to the exit, the better. The heated air will prevent cold air from entering from the outside. In addition, in this case it will be easier to deliver fuel for the furnace.

Factors to consider:

• The structure must be installed so that all side parts can be reached. This is necessary for correct operation and full cleaning capabilities.
• The stove should not be part of the general foundation of the house, since its foundation will experience completely different types of loads.
• The location should be such that the chimney pipe does not rest against the floor beams. This needs to be calculated when building a house or when laying the foundation for the stove.
• There must be a fire-resistant floor in front of the firebox door. (sheet metal or ceramic tiles), to prevent accidental fires.

Equipment and building materials for building a stove with your own hands

Brick

There are sources on the Internet that claim that bricks for stoves and fireproof bricks are one and the same. In fact, they only have linear dimensions in common. Dimensions of a regular single building bricks are 250 by 125 by 65 mm, and a standard stove has a size of 230 by 114 by 40 mm. Sometimes 230 by 114 by 65 mm is found. In the construction of the furnace, special high-quality brick of grade 150 is used. It is resistant to temperatures up to 800 degrees. It would be possible to build an entire furnace from it, but it cools quickly and is not suitable for a full-fledged furnace.

Fireclay bricks are used to lay the furnace channels in the combustion chamber. It can withstand high thermal loads. It is used in Swedish stoves or sauna stoves. It can withstand temperatures up to 1800 degrees, but in home ovens this temperature does not exist. It is valued for other qualities - the ability to retain heat for a long time. It makes no sense to build the entire body of the furnace out of it, since it is very expensive and has weak strength.

To distinguish high-quality fireclay from low-quality one, there is an opinion that it should have a yellowish tint. But such a calculation is not correct, since fireclay can change color depending on its deposit. A sign of high-quality fireclay is the fine grain of the brick. Another way to check is to check for sound. The brick is tapped with a hammer. The sound should be clear and clear, not dull. Last method determining the quality of a material is radical. They break the brick in half and look at the break. High-quality fireclay is broken into large pieces.

As a substitute for expensive fireclay, clinker bricks are sometimes used in kiln construction. It is just like red ceramic, but it is fired at elevated temperatures. It has greater strength and fire resistance.

White silicate is not suitable for any parts. It is not resistant to thermal stress and absorbs moisture too much.

Sand

Medium-fraction quarry sand is used as sand in the cement-sand mortar. It is sifted through a sieve to remove large fractions and various organic inclusions. The presence of additional inclusions in this case is very important. All organic impurities will burn from heat, causing the masonry to crack and begin to crumble.

Masonry mortar

To lay the stove you will have to use several types of mortar based on:

• Cement;
• Lime;
• Clays;
• Chamotte.

Characterized by its plasticity. It is used in places experiencing high temperature loads. This solution is cheap in price. Clay can be easily found on almost any plot of land by first cleaning it. It can withstand temperatures up to 1100 degrees Celsius. This mixture dries when exposed to high temperatures, but becomes wet when exposed to moisture. The furnace masonry can always be disassembled and reassembled. But you can’t lay a foundation on such a solution.

A mixture of clay with the addition of fireclay is used in the combustion chambers. This solution can withstand the highest thermal loads.

The lime mixture is used on the foundation masonry or for the chimney. This solution is quite strong, but can only withstand 450 degrees Celsius.

Cement-lime is even more durable than ordinary lime, but fire resistance is reduced even more. Used in the foundation.

Cement-sand mortar is used for masonry chimney. It has the best strength and resistance to precipitation. The seams of such a solution will not allow smoke and digging into the room and will provide good draft for the firebox.

Examples of brick stove designs

Stove for a summer residence

The average size of a country house is about 15-20 square meters. With a consumption of only 280 bricks, you can build a small stove with dimensions of 2 meters by 3 and a heat capacity coefficient of 1.90 kW. As mentioned earlier, the combustion part is made from fire bricks, and the whole body is erected from red ceramic.

The figure shows a sectional view of the furnace design

This simple option can be easily made by every beginner out of brick with his own hands, without even making mistakes.

Scheme with order, order instructions

Despite its small dimensions and light weight, it still requires the construction of a separate foundation. The foundation must also withstand the pressure of the chimney.

The thickness of the seam for masonry should be standard 8-10 mm, while the thickness of the seam between refractory bricks should be half as much.

It is better not to change the drawing if you do not have your own experience.

For such a stove, the chimney is laid in a brick floor.

Quantity of material:

You will need about 210 pieces of regular bricks, about 75 pieces of fireclay bricks. The clay solution will take about 70 liters. Sand 0.4 cubic meters m. One grate, door for combustion chamber, ash chamber and cleaning room. Two smoke valves. Sheet of metal for the foundation. For waterproofing, about 3 meters of roofing material.

The number of bricks is approximate, since there will be a certain percentage of broken bricks.

Russian stove

Such a furnace has an efficiency of 80 percent. She has a beautiful appearance. You can cook food on such a stove and its design includes a bench. The masonry and construction schemes are quite simple. Its main disadvantage is its design feature, due to which it only heats the upper part of the room. But in our country, it is still popular.

What it consists of:

• A) heated part;
• B) niche;
• B) pole;
• D) forge;
• D) shower part;
• E) shield;
• G) valve;
• H) chimney pipe;
• I) Repainting the furnace.

Large, small and medium furnaces are built according to their size. Let's consider a small one, measuring 1270 by 650 by 2380 mm.

Required materials:

Red bricks, about 1620 pieces. The clay solution will take about 1000 liters. Made of steel, a plug measuring 430 by 340, a valve measuring 300 by 300 (two pieces), a samovar measuring 140 by 140 (one).

Order of the Russian stove:

Row No. 1 is laid out from solid ceramic bricks, on lime mortar with the addition of cement. The formation of the furnace part occurs;

Row No. 2 to No. 4 a well is laid out. All seams are tied. On the one hand, they leave room for baking;

Rows No. 5 to No. 7 erect a vault over the oven;

Row No. 8 to No. 10 a castle for the vault is being erected;

Row No. 11 lay out a cold stove. Sand is poured into the remaining space between the stove and the oven;

Row No. 12 is laid out “under”. It is made from special bricks;

Row No. 13 is the beginning of the cooking chamber;

Rows No. 14 to 16 are done in the same way as the previous one;

Row No. 17 installs the arches of the mouths;

Row No. 18 laying the furnace walls;

Row No. 19 vault walls;

Row No. 20, using half bricks, narrow the hole above the pole;

Row No. 21 aligns the walls;

Row No. 22 is the stage of leveling and reducing the front pipe part;

Row No. 23 lay out a samovar;

Rows No. 24 to No. 32 installation of view valves;

Row No. 32 chimney laying. In a Russian stove, the chimney is made of 2 bricks.

Some features can be seen in Fig.

Before you start laying stoves, it’s worth trying to lay out at least one without mortar to understand the essence of the schemes. But with effort and patience, everyone can make a stove with their own hands.

Video

In this video you can see the order of the heating stove:

Collapse

To make your garden house warm and cozy not only in summer, but also in the cold season, we will analyze the construction of a brick oven. A stove in a garden house will be a reliable source of heat, and the interior of the house will sparkle with new colors if it is tastefully decorated.

Which stove is suitable for a garden house?

First we need to decide what function the home will perform for garden house:

1. If you are at the dacha only in the summer, and you only need it for cooking, a hob type stove is suitable for you. Its design does not provide heating. The combustion chamber, equipped with a chimney and an ash pan, is lined or made of brick, and a metal plate lies on top.
2. used by summer residents when they simply need heating, and have an electric stove for cooking. The design of such a stove is simple; it consists of a combustion chamber, an ash pan where ash is collected and a chimney. These also include fireplace stoves, with the help of which dacha owners try not only to heat their living spaces, but also to create country comfort. The efficiency of heat transfer of such structures depends on the thickness and origin of the material and the method of laying. Laying one brick allows you to heat the furnace walls up to 600 degrees; those laid out according to this pattern are called Dutch ovens. Ovens may have different shapes, it all depends on the area of ​​the room, the interior and the desires of the owners.
3. In our country, the most popular is its design, which is more complex and consists of a combustion chamber, a chimney, an ash pan, a hob and an oven. To build such a stove you need a lot of space, but thanks to it, the house will be warmer, and a delicious dinner, simmered on the stove by a skillful housewife, is guaranteed. Such a stove has many accessories, it can be equipped drying chamber, a couch, place a tank for heating water in the structure. This stove option is the most multifunctional.

Choosing the optimal location

The location of the stove for a garden house must be approached with the utmost seriousness, since not only effective heat transfer, but also your safety from fire depends on it. Of course, ideally in the old days, and even now, the place where the stove will stand was planned before the construction of the house began.

Here are the basic requirements for determining a place for the stove:

• The room where you plan to install a wood-burning stove must be at least 16 sq.m.
• The stove must be installed on a reliable foundation, which means there should be no floor beams under it. The chimney should exit in a place where there are no ceilings.
• Construction near the outer wall is not advisable, because precious heat will be given to the street. Therefore, it is better to locate it in the center of the house; the chimney will exit in the area of ​​the ridge, and the height of the pipe will be smaller. For wooden houses, central placement is recommended for fire safety reasons.

Now let's talk about the features of choosing a place for the stove. Best option To ensure good heat transfer, it is to place the stove so that all walls can come into contact with the air inside the home. The rooms should not be large, then you cannot do without additional heat sources.

Therefore, ideally, it should be placed in the opening of the partition between the rooms, and the firebox would go out in the kitchen or hallway area. On the one hand, the kitchen also becomes warm with the ability to cook, and on the other hand, the living spaces are freed from garbage.

When installing a multifunctional stove in large rooms, it should again be placed in the center of the room. The stove turns into a place of concentration of comfort that gives a home. It turns out something similar to a studio apartment, with an open layout, where the stove becomes a space divider.

DIY baby oven

In our article on the site, we are building a baby stove, which will not take up much space, but will be no less effective. It will create unique comfort in your house and bring warmth on cold evenings.

Of course, it is best to build a stove for a garden house with your own hands from brick; it is not so expensive in terms of costs and is much cheaper than ready-made devices. The baby oven measures only 51*64 at the base, and the depth is 50cm. It will not take up much space in a garden house or summer kitchen. You can heat with wood, coal, peat, briquettes.

Materials and tools

Materials required for masonry:

1. fireproof (fireclay bricks) - 40 pieces.
2. red building brick M150 – 220 pieces.
3. mortar for brickwork (clay, sand or ready-made).
4. grate.
5. roofing steel for pre-furnace sheet (size 50*70 cm).
6. steel strip with parameters 25*4 - 350mm.
7. slate sheet 510*300 mm.
8. chimney channel valves – 2 pieces.
9. firebox door (cast iron).
10. 3 cleaning doors.
11. blower door.
12. oven (320*380*420 mm).
13. metal stove measuring 380*350 mm (one burner).
14. steel wire.

Required tools:

• pick for cutting bricks.
• broom for removing debris from bricks.
• level.
• shovel
• marker.
• goniometer.
• rasp for grinding in lumps.
• spatula, rule.
• trowel.
• roulette.
• construction plumb line for checking the vertical of the walls.

Order and drawing

Stove diagram for a garden house with stove and oven:

The installation of brick stoves in a garden house is not complicated, but the skills of a craftsman must be present during construction. The design even includes baby stoves kitchen stove and an oven, so it can be used not only for heating, but also for cooking.

Summer residents who have this stove say that a kettle can be boiled in a couple of minutes. Small sizes came out for a reason vertical arrangement all components. The chimney was laid in one brick, and the channels through which gases pass were placed behind the heating and cooking chamber. They then fall into the lying down chimney, go around the oven and end up in the chimney.

Ordering a stove for a garden house:

Description of the masonry

• The beginning (first row) of laying the furnace begins without mortar.
• After the second row, the installation of the blower door begins, it is secured to the wire, after which it will be covered with brick during the process.
• The firebox is formed from the third row.
• A grate is placed in the fifth row without mortar.
• The firebox door is installed and secured with wire on the sixth row.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is closed from above, and the wire is embedded in the seams.
• The hob is placed in its place on the eleventh row.
• Next, the cooking chamber is displayed from rows 12 to 16.
• Next begins the laying of the chimney
• The diagram describes in some detail and clearly the further steps, this is the installation of the oven and valves.

To protect ceramic bricks from high temperatures when lining, fireclay bricks are laid in a separate row. You need to remember that you cannot bandage different types bricks, this can lead to cracks and ineffective construction.

Conclusion

Laying a brick stove for a garden house with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is still doable. If you approach this with enthusiasm and put your heart into it, the result will be positive. You will be able to build a real work of art in your house, which will delight you and your household not only with beauty, but also with warmth and comfort.

Cooking with outdoor ovens produces delicious meat and vegetables. Such designs safe, are equipped with a smokehouse, the fuel flares up in them in any weather.

Buying or building a barbecue is opportunity to relax on fresh air most of the year. At the same time, a brick oven will not only not take up much space on the site, but will also advantageously decorate the adjacent space.

Types of brick kilns

Differences in furnace device circuits appear in masonry features, shapes and sizes.

Simple BBQ

A popular design for outdoor structures is the barbecue stove. It is erected using simple brickwork, which resembles the letter "P".

The inner walls have several protrusions to attach the meat grates to them and metal sheet for coals. Design light in weight, so you don’t have to build a massive foundation.

For the base choose scraps concrete pillars. Raise the device to the height that will be convenient for comfortable cooking.

Outdoor stove with smokehouse

In the design of such a furnace above the hob in the smoke box equipped smokehouse. It can be created from more affordable materials than a barbecue. A special feature of the stove with smokehouse is lack of fireproof masonry.

Scheme of a direct-flow chimney for a stove

This device is erected more difficult than the previous ones, but increased convenience operation and attractive appearance cover all the shortcomings.

Looks like similar products look like a fireplace. However, this is not entirely true. Using an open flame in this type of stove is dangerous. This is explained pipe arrangement- it is performed directly.

Cooked on such ovens using coals. Firewood is used only at a great distance from residential and outbuildings.

How to build a brick oven on the street with your own hands

When building a furnace, it is important to strictly follow all steps described below.

Selection of materials

The following materials are used to construct the furnace:

• Chamotte brick. Often used aerated concrete. Such materials cope well with high temperatures.
• Ready metal structures. In this case, the cost of installing the furnace will be quite high.

Aerated concrete blocks cost much less than high-quality bricks. But the appearance of the structure will not be very advantageous. Such ovens must be lined.

Attention! A common option is purchasing a finished stove. This is due to the ease of installation according to the included instructions.

With purchase combustion chamber things are more complicated. For this reason, it is erected independently.

Tools

Prepare for the construction of a brick kiln following materials and tools:

• fireclay brick;
• shovel;
• nylon rope;
• clay required fat content;
• sand;
• cement powder;
• doors for the blower and firebox;
• trowel;
• Bulgarian;
• building level.

Choose the order according to your taste preferences.

Preparing the yard

The outdoor stove is placed in a place convenient for relaxing and cooking at the same time. At the same time, the structure is included in the site plan at the stage of building the house. In the case of an existing building, you should choose a place for outdoor stove made of brick according to several conditions:

• Carry out light to the location of the furnace.
• Size selection depends on the personal tastes of the owners of the site and the functions of the future structure.
• Between the building and the gazebo pave the way.
• Install the stove downwind. This will prevent smoke from entering the residential building.
• Can't build outdoor oven next to bushes and trees- plants do not like excessive heat.
• Do not post next to the structure flammable items.

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Foundation drawing

From the installation site remove all debris, level. Do the work in this sequence:

• Use a nylon rope to mark the area. The foundation should exceed the dimensions of the oven by 10 cm on each side.
• Dig it up half-meter pit.
• Knead solution. Mix sand with “three hundredth” cement in ratio 3:1 . Then stir the resulting solution and add water. Make the mixture liquid.
• Place at the bottom of the hole crushed stone, and then compact the resulting “pillow”. Now pour in the liquid solution.

For reference. The foundation hardens about two weeks.

Starting construction

Create work plan. Prepare a diagram of the furnace. Decide on the placement of the structure, its purpose and appearance . Having made a plan, it is easy to calculate the quantity building materials.

Attention! Choose materials only high quality . For good brick it is allowed to use a minimum amount of solution. When choosing used bricks, clean the surfaces of each element.

Requirements to the construction of a brick stove:

• Do solution for masonry plastic. Do not let it liquefy. This will eliminate smudges and ensure that the seams are filled.

​

• Sift mixture through fine mesh sieve (up to 1.5 mm).
• When using oily mix clay her with sand until the desired consistency is obtained.
• Knead solution thoroughly. Test the entire mixture with your hands before starting work. Don't leave any lumps. Uniformity the solution is the main purpose of mixing it.
• Before mixing the solution check the fat content clay. To do this, take one liter of clay of different compositions and roll them into balls 0.5 cm. After drying drop each of them on flat surface from a meter height. Ball, maximum retained its shape, is suitable for creating a solution.
• In two days before work starts soak the clay in water. She will gain required level plasticity.

After preparation, begin building the stove.

Laying procedure. Order

When the base has hardened, cover it roofing felt. Lubricate the joints mastic. This layer will become waterproofing. Next comes the laying process:

• When starting work, use only a whole brick, then - ¾ and ½ products. Due to this, the order will be tightly bound. After the end of each row check it is horizontal level.
• After completion first row install door blowing. Wrap it around the contour asbestos cord for compaction.
• Secure the door in order wire 3 mm thick.

• Using a grinder, make it into the brick. furrow, into which the wire will be laid.
• The gap formed between the door and the brick, reduce up to a thickness of 1 cm.
• Having closed the vent, carry out installation of grates. To do this, make cuts in the brick. This way the grille will be positioned strictly along the gap.
• Continue building the stove until you need to install second door. Trim the brick with a grinder. Between masonry and metal parts, keep 1 cm gap.
• Close the top stove- metal or stone.

Photo 1. An example of arranging an outdoor stove with a barbecue and hob, contains 24 rows excluding the chimney.

Chimney

Build on an outdoor stove modular chimney. It will last quite a long time. Another advantage of choosing this design is ease of installation. To insulate joints, use heat resistant sealant.

Construct the chimney in accordance with certain rules:

• If you look at the fire while relaxing, buy door with glass insert.
• Joints between modules make it tight.
• Brackets install every 2 meters.
• In walls or ceilings don't leave any gaps.

Photos of outdoor stoves

Photo 2. An example of a simple outdoor brick oven, with a roof, but without any additional devices.

Photo 3. Brick oven with barbecue and two countertops for outdoor cooking.

A small brick stove can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this, and we will offer instructions on manufacturing rules. You can also watch the video in this article and select the modification you need.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick stoves for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; you should familiarize yourself with them before making a final decision.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses They are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and if hit, it can easily flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide that gets inside can lead to quite dire consequences;
• The stove, which is placed on a summer cottage in winter time, must withstand without kindling for quite a long time and not become damp;
• Warming up and quick lighting of the device, the spread of heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or when completing difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat retention is extremely necessary if you are going to a house overnight;
• Without hob in country house it is almost impossible to get by, especially if the electricity in the village periodically turns off and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel that is used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be heated in various ways - brushwood, coal, wood or household waste;


• It is desirable that the stove has the ability to install a hot water supply register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it yourself, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of craftsmen in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add a certain gray spot to the overall design.

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer residence is used quite often.

But during installation you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the stove was installed correctly and a valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but for this building it will be necessary to create strong foundation, which will be isolated from the foundation walls. This bathroom condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it may begin to pull on the base of the stove;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long periods of downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it was not used, you need to carry out several drying fires without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

• It is precisely because brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in a dacha only when people live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of burning it;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings made of brick to be useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and unique atmosphere. And what’s more important is that they are multifunctional. Furnace professionals have developed huge amount a variety of models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small stove

A small brick oven can be installed with your own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are simply making a stove with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a fairly heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply cover it with bricks to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your structure will take up more space and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• Boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Fire door;
• Lattice;
• Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove occupies 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on edge or flat. This type The oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation structure is not prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well secured.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functionality and a heating part, which includes a cooking part. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace can be erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to light the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sudden temperature changes may cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry thoroughly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mixture

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in masonry. What to choose is up to you.

• For bricklaying, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screenings instead of sand for the mixture are used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or several rows of masonry. If for the M400 cement grade sand is added ¼, then for the screed the screenings must be mixed in a proportion of 1/6;
• It is a little more difficult to prepare a solution of sand and clay, because it will take much more time. In order for the lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything here depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked using a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without any problems, leaving no traces, and in its thickness it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How to make a stove

Now let's look at how to make a small brick stove in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fire-resistant material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand a coal fire. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for the mini-stove, and instead put roofing felt, film, glassine or hydrosol into it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• You need to pour and level sand onto the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter);
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After this, we align all the bricks to the same level so that they are strictly horizontal;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can begin installing the blower door. It is extremely important that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We secure it with wire, after which you can safely move on to laying the next one;
• Fireclay brick is used for the third row of the mini-stove, after which the grate is installed. It is mounted above the ashpit only when the third brick row is completely formed;


• We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on edge; in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay supports for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a small protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After this we install the combustion door. Again, before you begin installing the door, you need to wrap it with cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is secured with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first one is placed at the back, and the second one is placed on top of the door;
• Also, to ensure reliable fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat; here we make sure to check the outline of the previous row. But the sixth row is laid edgewise. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
• On the 7th row we lay the brick flat. Next, we place a couple of bricks edgewise and proceed to the back wall;


• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, make sure that it overlaps the combustion door above which it will end. It is at this time that we install a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out a soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different ratio temperature expansion, then we do not lay the slab on clay. Afterwards you can move on to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the rear. To make a stove of just such a design, there is no need for a mounted pipe, which will expand at the top, since this type pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. There are various chimney designs. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget to insert a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will be connected to the metal one. If the chimney goes to the side, then it must be covered with several rows of bricks;
• After this, we remove the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from dirt that has accumulated during construction work;


• We whiten the stove. We protect the metal part of the stove itself and its walls with film. To prevent it from turning yellow over time, you need to add milk and a small amount of blue to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and cast iron surfaces;
• Carefully seal the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not spill;
• Afterwards, we nail a plinth along the edge of the building, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it level and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you carry out the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything dries thoroughly.

A small brick stove for a summer house is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will prevent you from making mistakes.

iz-kirpicha.su

Preparing for work

It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for a brick cottage with your own hands without construction experience. There are too many nuances and secrets hidden in the work of a professional stove maker. But small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer cottage can easily be built even by an untrained person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.

Selection of building materials

Since the described small brick stove for a summer house is heated with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be made of ordinary, not refractory bricks. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.

List and required quantity of materials:

• red ceramic solid brick— 700 pcs.;
• grate - 1 pc.;
• combustion door - 1 pc.;
• ash door - 1 pc.;
• doors for soot cleaning channels - 2 pcs.;
• valve - 1 pc.

For a stove for a wood-burning cottage with your own hands, you need to choose a solid ceramic brick that does not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time produces not a ringing sound (this is a superheated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side edges of the bricks be smooth.

For the solution you will need clay. Stove makers prefer to choose “fat”, from which the solution turns out to be soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a stove for a summer cottage with your own hands can be found in construction stores or, after consulting with local residents, simply dug up in the area.

Tool

WITH good tool A stove for a country house is built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, plumb line, trowel, mason's hammer and dishes for preparing clay mortar. To cut bricks you need a grinder.

Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer residence

No matter how small a brick stove you make for a summer cottage with your own hands, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot place it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.

To choose the right location for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe fits between the floor beams and the roof joists. If there is a chimney in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a dacha can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but there will never be smoke in one of the rooms, even under the most unfavorable conditions.

The depth of the foundation must exceed the freezing depth of the soil. However, if country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined foundation can be made for the stove for the dacha. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns, such as those used for fences, are dug vertically into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.

Between them, directly on the surface of the soil, half a brick is poured with a gravel or sand cushion. Then a layer of roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing is laid. A reinforcing metal mesh is placed on top, and then poured on top of it. concrete foundation with fittings. The top of the foundation must coincide with the floor level and be perfectly horizontal!

Let's start building the oven

You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the foundation, and a metal sheet on top of it. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, on the side of loading firewood it is better to make a larger outlet. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.

During operation, the garden stove heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest defense a sheet of asbestos painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque can serve. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very dangerous to inhale. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself summer cottage stove can be insulated from wood with a solid slab mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has too low a temperature limit.

Preparing clay solution

The country stove is built on clay, not cement. The clay solution is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea ​​sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth checking its quality first. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.

Dried products need to be tested: throw them from a height of human height, try to crush them with a board under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure shown, the best batch corresponds to samples “b”.

Preparing bricks and clay

The stove for the dacha is built with your own hands from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will adhere well to the brick in the masonry. You need to prepare very little clay so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you won’t be able to put in more at one time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.

Features of stove masonry

In order for a stove in the country, laid with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The laying sequence is visible in the order drawing.

The cast iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are secured using steel wire, which is walled up in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer, but in this case there may be a lot of waste for scrap. The area for the grate should be slightly larger than the size of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.

The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. A good solution spreads as easily as soft butter spreads on bread.

When building a stove for your dacha, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. The outside of the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered using a jointer or finger. There should also be no gaps in the places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to set, and the upper rows do not creep.

Bottom line

Despite small size And simple design, For small houses brick country stoves They are very popular because they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick stove for a summer cottage is low cost and accessible to self-made, but if you live permanently in winter, you will have to heat it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.

vsadu.ru

What should a stove be like for a summer cottage?

Before you start construction, you should decide for yourself an important question: what kind of stove to build for your dacha with your own hands from brick.

To do this, let's look at the characteristics it should have.

1. Fuel. This dacha device must be “omnivorous”, i.e. burn not only with wood, but also with waste fuel: brushwood and branches, coal, agricultural waste, briquettes. Ideally, it should also “digest” household waste.
2. Time of ignition and start of heat transfer. It should be minimal due to the fact that if you are suddenly caught by bad weather, you need to warm up as quickly as possible. Otherwise, it’s not far from pneumonia.
3. Dimensions. Usually the country house is small, which means the stove should be small.
4. Economical. A very important factor associated with the high cost of delivering fuel to a personal plot.
5. Safety. This factor is especially important for wooden houses. During the gardening work There is usually no one in the house. Therefore, the stove should not produce waste and be fireproof even in cases of accidental violations of the firebox.
6. If in winter personal plot no one lives, then the stove must withstand long breaks between heating in damp conditions.
7. It is desirable for the device to have a hob, especially in a small house, when it is not possible to place them separately.
8. Ease of manufacture. An experienced stove maker is an expensive pleasure. Therefore, the design should be such that even an inexperienced craftsman could build a stove for a summer house with his own hands from brick.

Thus, if 5-6 people live in a house on a personal plot, a brick oven is simply necessary. Otherwise, you can get by with a regular electric stove for cooking.

If your gardening does not have electricity, then renting a diesel generator for your dacha will help you.

We build a stove with our own hands

Typically, country houses made from block containers are designed together with a stove. But even if the house doesn’t have a stove, it doesn’t matter, it can be built in.

The instructions for the construction of such objects read:

1. If you are planning a tall stove that has its own chimney or the planned number of bricks for the stove exceeds 500 pieces, then it requires a separate foundation that is not connected to the foundation of the building.
2. If you plan to have a wide and low hob, then there is no need to build a separate foundation for it if it is equipped with a heating panel. According to SNiP, such a shield must withstand a load of no less than 250 kg/sq.m.

Advice. In such cases, it is highly desirable to strengthen the flooring under the shield with auxiliary joists.

1. The chimney must not come into contact with wooden parts ceiling.

Pay attention!
It is highly desirable that the distance from the chimney cut to those closest to it ceiling beams was approximately equal.

1. The chimney must be at least 1.5 m from the roof ridge. and rise above it by 0.5 m.

Choosing a site for construction

Choosing a location is very important stage. The place should not only be convenient, but also be chosen according to all requirements fire safety. In addition, the location of the furnace should be selected from the point of view of the most efficient heating of the premises.

IN small rooms The stove is often placed in a corner, but in this case the opposite side of the room does not warm up well. Especially if there is in the room entrance doors country house. It is much more correct to build it into the wall between the kitchen and the room.

In this case, we immediately kill two birds with one stone - we heat the room and calmly cook in the kitchen. In addition, with this arrangement of the oven, kitchen aromas are cut off.

Start of construction

Before starting construction, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on the foundation. Often, roofing felt is used for this, the price of which is low, but it is significantly inferior to special modern materials.

The first row of bricks is laid on top of the waterproofing. Since here we will have a compartment for ash, which means there will be no high temperatures, we can safely use ordinary red brick.

Pay attention!
Before laying, the brick must be soaked for 5-6 hours.

In general, it makes sense to use special heat-resistant bricks (fireclay, dynas) only in the case of lining the firebox. This is due to the fact that its thermal conductivity is significantly higher than that of a conventional stove, which means that the stove will warm up significantly longer. Not to mention the fact that its price is at least twice as high.

Advice. If you do not have sufficient experience in building stoves, use ready-made clay mortar for masonry.

We install the blower door on the first row of bricks and secure it with steel wire. It is advisable to lay a sheet of steel 2-3 mm thick at the bottom of the future ash pit, taking into account its size, so that later it will be more convenient to remove the ash.

We lay out the second and third rows taking into account the size of the ash compartment, after which we can proceed to installing the internal metal frame. The height of the ash pan is usually calculated based on the height of the door plus 1-2 rows of bricks.

Building the middle part of the stove

The middle part is the most critical stage of work. We are forming a firebox on it, so be as careful as possible. It is in this place that we install a metal frame for laying grates, through which the firebox communicates with the ash pan.

It is not necessary to install a metal frame in cases where you have the opportunity to provide grooves for grate bars in the masonry. To do this, make markings in the masonry and cut the grooves with a grinder to the size of the product.

This simple operation will allow you to save money on a metal frame. After the grates are installed, we lay out 2 more rows of bricks and begin the formation of the smoke exhaust compartment.

Pay attention!
The firebox is usually 3-4 bricks high.
This is enough to use both wood and coal as fuel.

Installing the stove

It's no secret that a do-it-yourself brick stove for a dacha is built not just right, but taking into account ready plan. In this regard, a hob is purchased at the stage of preparation for construction and the size of the firebox is adjusted to its dimensions.

Before installation cast iron stove for a dacha, a groove is cut out in a brick with a grinder, into which a rectangular frame from a corner is placed, welded exactly to the size of the slab. The frame is laid on the same mortar that we used for the masonry. After this, you can lay the slab.

Next, we lay out the chimney according to the chosen order and you can begin lining.

In conclusion

A stove in a country house can be not only a product for cooking and heating, but also an element of unique decor, as well as the pride of its creator. It is more than possible to build a stove for your summer cottage with your own hands from brick. The most important thing is to show maximum care and strictly follow the technology and the project.

Well, the video in this article will allow you to familiarize yourself with all the subtleties and nuances of this process.

9dach.ru

Schemes of small brick stoves

Compact ovens don't take up much space, which is especially important for small spaces. Heaters have rectangular section at the base. Height stoves depends on the height of the building and the chosen model. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel pipe.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

Small stoves intended for heating a home and cooking food are built into niche for stove.

You can build into another niche located above the firebox oven, hot water container. Niche space is often used for drying things.

Let's consider a specific diagram of a compact stove with a size base 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) And 2.15 meters high (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed to heat small and medium-sized houses with an area of from 25 to 40 square meters. Ceramic solid (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The oven is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). The oven of this model contains the following structural elements:

• combustion chamber;
• blower;
• smoke ducts;
• hole for cleaning smoke ducts;
• hole for building a chimney;
• niche with cooking floor;
• niche for installing an oven or hot water tank.

Metal elements for heater buy at a hardware store. Add to list factory parts included:

• fire door size 20 x 20 cm(solid cast iron or with fireproof glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Fire door measuring 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and fire-resistant glass. It is possible to regulate traction.

• ash door ( 14 x 14 cm);
• 2 doors for cleaning smoke ducts ( 20 x 14 cm);
• grate ( 45 x 25 cm);
• cooking floor size 20 x 35 cm(with or without hole);
• 2 valves;
• steel angle profile length 50 cm(attached between the firebox sheet and the stove wall);
• pre-furnace metal sheet size 50 x 60-70 cm.

Oven and hot water tank welded from steel sheet. Under pre-furnace sheet lay asbestos cardboard of the same size. For furnace work you will need:

• 222 units full-bodied red bricks;
• ready masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken locally in a quarry).

Small heating device

Let's consider a specific heater circuit. Base This model has the shape of a rectangle measuring 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 x 2 bricks). Height stoves - 2 meters 38 cm.

Compact dimensions allow the heater to be installed in a corner or in the center of the room. If the dacha has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms total area up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into wall openings (interior partitions).

Basic elements this model:

• firebox;
• blower;
• smoke channels;
• outlet to the chimney.

A door with heat-resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door is built into the firebox portal. The furnace is being built on a solid foundation, buried in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Making a small stove for a summer house with your own hands

IN in this example Let us consider in detail the preparatory and main work on the construction of a compact heating mini-stove at the dacha. Important points works are:

• selection of ready-made project;
• choice places in a country house for the construction of a stove;
• acquisition materials;
• purchase of metal parts and accessories;
• oven preparation tool, purchase or rental of power tools (grinders, vibrating drills);
• construction foundation;
• construction stoves.

Selecting a finished project

Main requirement to the heater - the ability to release heat within several hours after heating. Quick heating of the house while burning fuel economically is of considerable importance. To choose from also influence:

• weather conditions region in the winter months and off-season;
• square country house and the number of heated rooms;
• price materials.

Photo 2. An example of a drawing of a small heating brick stove with dimensions. On the right is a sectional view, the order is indicated.

The choice of model is influenced tastes of the owner of the house. A well-built heating stove of this design can not only heat up, but also decorate a country house.

Materials

Choice quality materials allows you to build a reliable stove. For work will be needed:

• ceramic bricks ( 260 units);
• fireclay bricks ( 130 units);
• factory (ready) mixtures for furnace work (clay-sand and fireclay-sand).

When choosing fireclay bricks for the firebox, pay attention to the markings. Bricks with letter "U" made from recycled, recycled fireclay. They have more low performance strength compared to bricks with letter "Ш".

Suitable for laying the lower and upper parts of the heater ordinary red brick. The quality of the material is judged by the presence of cracks and black spots from factory firing. If there are a lot of broken, cracked, burnt bricks in the batch, it is better to look for the material in another store.

Mixtures are diluted with water according to the instructions on the package. There is no need to add salt or other ingredients to them.

Metal parts of the stove are purchased at a hardware store. For this design you will need:

• fire door size 30 x 20 cm;
• blower door size 20 x 14 cm;
• 2 doors for cleaning holes - 20 x 40 cm;
• grate ( 40 x 23 cm);
• roofing felt ( 60 x 100 cm), two segment;
• steel sheet size 50 x 70 cm;
• asbestos slate ( 50 x 70 cm);
• steel angle (rolled) length 50 cm;
• 2 furnace valves size 13 x 13 cm.

To secure the doors to the masonry you will need 6 meters steel wire diameter 1-2 mm or steel strips ( 1.65 meters), bolts and long screws.

Foundation preparation

The size of the foundation depends on specific conditions construction. Minimum thickness of the base for this model of a small stove - 55-60 cm.

The foundation is built in such a way that it blocked the soil freezing zone, A little rose above the floor or was on par with him. Concrete, steel reinforcement, brick, rubble stone, sand, crushed stone, and waterproofing roll material are used for construction.

For a compact small furnace, a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation is suitable. Installation and pouring are underway in the following order:

• A pit is dug in the ground, the dimensions of which exceed the perimeter of the future stove 10-20 cm on each side.
• The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted.
• A layer of fine crushed stone is poured into the pit ( 22-25 cm), on it is a layer of medium-grained sand ( 15-17 cm).
• The loose stone cushion is leveled and compacted.
• The pit is lined with roofing felt, roofing felt, and the joints are coated with mastic made from bitumen and tar.
• Installed in the pit formwork to the required height, a grid of steel reinforcement is installed inside it.
• The pit is filled with concrete, and a vibratory drill is used to compact and release air bubbles.
• After the cement has completely set and dried, place it on the base. two waterproofing layers from roofing felt.
• Two layers of oven bricks are placed on top of the roofing felt (on the mortar).

Construction of the brick kiln itself

Before starting work, mix masonry mortars. The brickwork is led to strictly horizontal surfaces. This parameter is checked at the foundation construction stage. Below is a description of the row laying of a mini-heating stove.

1 row. According to the diagram, bricks are laid to form a ash pit. The lower frame of the blower door is secured into the blower portal.

2-3 rows. Laying according to the diagram.

4 row. Fastening the blower door into the masonry, laying according to the diagram.

5 row. Laying out the combustion chamber. Installation of the grate. Installation of the combustion door into the portal (laying fasteners into the seams).

Rows 6-9. Laying the combustion chamber according to the diagram. Fastening the door holders into the seams.

10-12 rows. Laying the combustion chamber.

Rows 13-15. Laying the furnace roof, forming the furnace smoke channel.

16-17 row. Laying according to the diagram, installing a door for cleaning the smoke duct. Seal the door fasteners into the seams.

Rows 18-24. Formation of furnace smoke channels.

Row 25-26. Installation of a door for cleaning the smoke duct. Formation of smoke channels.

27 row. Laying channels.

28 row. Installation of the lower valve, laying of channels.

Rows 29-31. Formation of channels, work according to the scheme.

Photo 3. The middle of the furnace construction process: the firebox is constructed, the formation of smoke channels begins.

32 row. Solid masonry, closing channel arches, forming a chimney. Installing the top damper.

Rows 33-34. Solid masonry with the formation of a chimney.

Row 35 Construction of the first layer of chimney masonry.

Possible difficulties and problems

When constructing stove walls, inexperienced craftsmen do not use a frame made of wooden beams and a plumb line, which leads to deviation of walls from vertical.

If during construction it is discovered skewed walls, the masonry should be disassembled and rearranged.

After finishing the work and natural drying, the mini-oven begins to be heated with small portions of firewood.

At the same time stove walls become covered with cracks due to shrinkage processes taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Improper sealing of the door fasteners can cause the door to move. To avoid door misalignment, it is not left open until the fasteners are completely sealed into the seams. If displacement is discovered during construction, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are sealed again.

Useful video

A video in which a three-dimensional model shows the step-by-step construction of a small stove for a summer residence: for clarity, each row is painted in a different color.

Where is it more efficient and safe to place a small-sized stove?

To heating the stove gave off heat effectively, it is placed in the middle one-room dwelling or built-in in interior partitions. Heating and cooking small stoves are placed in the center of the kitchen or against the wall.

The heating plant will safe, if the ceiling is properly cut. A spark arrestor is placed on the chimney.

The combustion chamber is a source of increased danger. The oven is positioned so that embers and sparks did not fall on the walls, in doorways, on furniture. If necessary, walls are protected non-flammable materials(flat slate, ceramic tiles).

ogon.guru

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated is absorbed brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to it, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When operating any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel long-burning heaters (full-fledged, and not so-called gas generator stoves that only imitate gas generation) do not have this drawback. But they are very expensive, they have complex design and need electricity, which a brick kiln can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing metal parts(muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

Very good option heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven, you can install a heat exchanger on the side to heat the water that will be stored in storage tank on the roof of the stove;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• Dishes of our national cuisine that cannot be cooked otherwise than in a Russian oven are becoming available for preparation.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole back wall flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

Walls gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the intersection area attic floor and roofing is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements it is required less bricks, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called flood part (indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Pay attention! Facing brick in this case it cannot be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be laid out stove brick at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

More reliable indicator quality - the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it breaks into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let's analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with more deep cracks the solution is considered unusable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires great experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. He demonstrates enough exact result provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded firebox made of sheet steel; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

Cross-section of chimneys corresponding standard requirements(straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m), selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to accomplish exact calculation manually - just count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. More modern version- simulate a stove in one of the designated ones computer programs. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and its location in it. various rooms. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the internal walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a foundation made of wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• All that remains is to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt soaked in highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only begin after top layer will dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step by step instructions

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given maximum thickness(5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter only increases outer size chimney, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. Inner surface The chimney needs to be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic brick you need to moisten it by dipping it in a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in pure heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Damp firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, a large amount of acid condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by a yellow color of fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.