Assembling a ship model can be interesting not only for avid ship modelers, but also for beginners. By assembling a wooden model, you will learn a lot about the structure of ships, and you will enjoy seeing how a set of wooden blanks turns into a real sailboat. To make assembly enjoyable, we recommend starting with the simplest models. Call us - we will be happy to help you with your choice.

Each wooden ship is unique and often carries a piece of history. We present colonial ships, fishing vessels, and majestic warships - for every taste and color. We offer quality models at low prices - these are foreign models of the Mamoli, Corel, Mantua, Amati, Artesania Latina, Billing Boats, Constructo brands, and ships for assembly from Russian manufacturers- Master Shipbuilder, Falconet, LS Model.

What's inside?

Each kit contains materials, drawings and instructions - in general, everything you need to assemble a model of a wooden ship. On the other hand, tools, as a rule, are not included in the kit - this saves money for those who already have tools. For everyone else, our store offers a wide variety of modeling tools. Usually, we indicate everything that needs to be purchased in addition to assembling the model from scratch in the “related products” subsection on the product page.

TECHNOLOGY FOR MANUFACTURING SHIP MODELS

§ 8. MATERIALS AND THEIR PROCESSING

Wood of various species is used to build models of ships and vessels. The main requirements for it are: strength with minimal weight, ease of processing, fine-layering and the ability to stably maintain the given original shape. Such tree species include linden, aspen and poplar. The hulls of ship and vessel models are often made from them. Pine, spruce, cedar, maple, mahogany, balsa, alder and pear are also used in ship modeling.

Pine, cedar and spruce have high mechanical properties, prick and bend well, especially when soaked and steamed. They are used mainly for the manufacture of stringers and various slats in the construction of model bodies. Model bodies can also be made from these rocks. When making model parts and especially stringers, it is necessary to avoid large-layered wood and select the smallest-layered wood, with the number of annual layers of at least 10 per 1 cm. The layers must be parallel, otherwise the slats will break along the beveled layer. .

Maple has a hard, uniform, fine-grained white wood. It doesn't chip well, but peels off veneer well; polished and painted with any varnish. It is usually used to veneer (cover) the decks of model merchant ships.

Mahogany is the name given to many species with wood ranging in color from light brown to dark reddish. It grows mainly in Africa, the Antilles and America. On the territory of the USSR it is found in Transcaucasia.

The wood of this tree is valued not only for beautiful color and design, but also for water resistance. It is easy to cut and process, well varnished and polished. In ship modeling, wood is used to make tabletops. sailing models. A deck lined (assembled) from individual thin strips (slats) looks especially beautiful.

Hard but brittle, walnut wood is light gray to brown in color, with very beautiful grain. It is well polished, varnished and waxed. It is used mainly as a finishing material in the manufacture of tabletop models of sailing ships.

Pear wood has different colors - from light pink to red, it is very dense and uniform. It is perfectly processed with cutting tools and is well polished. Used for inlaying models of sailing ships.

One of the main indicators of wood is density. The softer the wood (more loose), the smaller it is, and vice versa.

Density of some types of wood, g/cm3

Birch - 0.65 Linden - 0.48

Pear - 0.73 Poplar - 0.47

Walnut - 0.73 Spruce - 0.47

Maple - 0.75 Alder - 0.54

Red Aspen - 0.43

wood - 0.54 Balsa - 0.1-0.24

Pine - 0.51

In addition to wood, many other materials are used in ship modeling. Thus, for the manufacture of hulls and superstructures of models of ships and vessels, foam plastics, plexiglass, polystyrene, celluloid and fiberglass are used. Foam plastics lend themselves well to processing on woodworking machines and manual carpentry cutting tool. Beginning modelers can use them to make ship hulls, and it is advisable to cover the hulls of large models with a layer of fiberglass on ED-5 epoxy resin.

Plexiglas and polystyrene - sheet materials. They can be used to make various superstructures, as well as to stamp the hulls of small ship models (500-600 mm) in heated form. These materials are well glued with dichloroethane or pear essence.

Fiberglass fabric is used in ship modeling for gluing model hulls and making parts of complex configurations. Ship modellers usually use fiberglass with a thickness of 0.25-0.4 mm of the brands TSF (b), ASTT (b) - 8, ASTT (b) C, ASTT (b) C2 and ASTT-9.

Finds application for many crafts sheet metal- steel, brass, copper and tinplate.

§ 9. ADHESIVES USED IN SHIP MODELING

When building models of ships and vessels, various adhesives are used: protein, nitrocellulose and resin.

Carpenter's (gluten) glue, when prepared normally (in water), is very sensitive to moisture. But it can be made relatively waterproof if you cook it according to the following recipe: break it into small pieces, put it in a jar and fill it with natural drying oil. When the glue swells (after 12-13 hours), place the jar in another bowl filled with water and heat until the glue is completely dissolved. It can only be consumed hot. It takes one and a half to two times longer to dry than when prepared with water.

It should be remembered that it should not be brought to a boil. If it boils during cooking, it will almost completely lose its adhesive ability.

Casein glue is more water-resistant and is used for gluing textiles and paper products. Based on the strength of gluing, the following grades of this glue are distinguished: extra (B-107), first grade (B-105) and ordinary (OB).

The adhesive solution is prepared as follows: add 2 parts to one part of powder, and 1.7 parts of water for thicker glue. The resulting slurry must be stirred until it turns into a homogeneous mass without lumps or grains. The glue is suitable for use within 3-5 hours (depending on the composition). It is applied to both surfaces of the parts to be glued and kept in air for 3-5 minutes. Then the products are connected and pressed into clamps. Complete curing of the glue at room temperature occurs within 20-24 hours.

Nitrocellulose waterproof adhesives include enamel, AK-20, as well as any other nitrovarnishes: AB-4, 754, 900 and 930. They are produced ready-to-use.

Nitro adhesives are used for gluing wood, fabrics, celluloid, and leather. They can be diluted with solvents 646, 647 and RDV.

When gluing, both surfaces are covered with two or three layers of glue, allowing each time to dry until tack-free. After this, lubricate one of the surfaces again, connect it to the other and tighten the product with clamps.

You can prepare nitro adhesives yourself by dissolving celluloid in acetone or any of the above solvents. These adhesives are used as a primer for nitro putty on floating models and for the preparation of quick-drying putties with the addition of talc (baby powder), chalk and sawdust.

Polyvinyl phenolic adhesives are very water resistant and are made by mixing polyvinyl and phenolic resins. Before applying such glue, the parts must be heated.

BF-1 and BF"-2 adhesives are used for gluing aluminum, wood, steel, plastics, ceramics, fiber, leather, fabric and paper. When gluing parts, apply a thin layer of glue to the prepared surfaces and leave in air until tack-free (not less than 30 minutes). Then they are coated again and kept for 15 minutes. After this, the parts to be glued are connected, compressed and left under pressure (at a temperature of 140-160 °) for 1 hour. If gluing is carried out without heating, the parts must remain under pressure. 3-4 days.

BF-6 glue is used for gluing fabric, which must be soaked and wrung out well before gluing. After smearing it with glue, it is heated with an iron through a damp piece of fabric until the glue dries.

All these adhesives are sold in stores in ready-made form.

Dichloroethane glue is used for gluing plexiglass, polystyrene and polymer materials. It is prepared by

dissolving plexiglass shavings in dichloroethane or pear essence. The surfaces to be joined are generously smeared two to three times. adhesive solution, dry until tack-free, spread again and connect. For complete drying when gluing under pressure, it takes 4 hours, without pressure 8-10 hours.

The most durable and water-resistant adhesives are those based on epoxy resins.

The chemical industry of the USSR produces a large number of resins of various brands. But the most widespread among them are epoxy resins of the ED-5, ED-6, EDP and E-37 brands.

Epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6 are a low-viscosity transparent liquid from light yellow to brown. To obtain epoxy glue or an impregnating compound (for example, for gluing model bodies), a hardener must be added to the epoxy resin. Depending on the type of hardener introduced, you can get hot-curing glue (heated up to 200 ° C) or cold-curing glue, which hardens at room temperature. Ship modellers are more satisfied with the latter. But it can also be heated to 70° C, then the gluing process speeds up and the strength increases.

To obtain cold-curing epoxy adhesive, one of the hardeners (8-15%) must be added to the ED-5 or ED-6 resin: hexamethylenediamine (HMD), pyridine, piperidine, or most often polyethylene polyamine (PEPA).

Epoxy compound adhesives with high strength - adhesive joints have low shrinkage, chemical, antifungal and moisture resistance. When gluing, they do not require the use of high pressure.

Cold-curing adhesives should be prepared immediately before their use, as they harden quickly (with the introduction of a hardener of 8-15% within 20-40 minutes).

The parts to be glued must be degreased. Two layers of glue are applied to the prepared surfaces, one after the other, allowing each layer to dry until tack-free. After this, the parts are pressed in and kept for 24 hours at a temperature of 18-25°.

If you add filler to epoxy glue - aluminum powder, chalk or talc, you can get a good, durable putty.

When gluing parts made of fiberglass (model bodies, superstructures, etc.), you must remember that ED-6 resin is very viscous and the compound based on it does not saturate dense fiberglass well. Therefore, one of the components is introduced into the glue as a plasticizer (thinner): DEG-1 epoxy resin, ethyl cellosolf, dibutyl phthalate or acetone. To prevent the fiberglass from sticking to the shape of the product, a so-called separating layer is applied between the blank and the fiberglass. To apply this layer, you can use a 10-15% solution of polyethylene in white spirit, wax, paste for polishing parquet floors and other materials.

Epoxy glue is widely used in the repair of ships, cars and tractors. By applying patches made of several layers of fiberglass impregnated with an epoxy compound, it is possible to ensure very high strength and tightness of such patches.

Epoxy compounds are toxic. The most toxic part of epoxy compounds is the hardeners.

Vapors and dust from hardeners and compounds are irritating to the mucous membranes of the nose, throat and eyes. Prolonged contact with fumes or dust from hardeners can cause severe injury. Therefore, when working with epoxy compounds and hardeners, you must observe the following measures precautions:

all operations for the preparation and use of epoxy compounds should be carried out in an isolated and well-ventilated room;

Carefully remove dust after processing cured compounds with a wet rag;

desktops before work with epoxy adhesives cover with paper, which is removed after contamination;

use rubber gloves when working with adhesives;

Wash your hands and face periodically during the working day warm water and dry yourself with disposable towels;

immediately remove splashes of resin, compound and hardener that get on the skin with a gauze swab moistened with acetone, and then wash the skin with soapy water;

Do not allow persons with hypersensitive skin to work with epoxy compounds.

Eating at the place of work is strictly prohibited.

§ 10. METHODS OF MANUFACTURING MODELS CASES

One of the main operations when building a ship model is making the hull. It can be made from various materials: a whole piece of wood, glued boards, papier-mâché, tin and fiberglass.

When starting work, the ship modeler must remember that correctly executed hull contours ensure good seaworthiness of the model.

Therefore, when building the model body, you must strictly adhere to the theoretical drawing and follow the sequence of operations of the chosen method.

For desktop and small self-propelled models, the body can be made from a whole block of wood, which should be straight-grained, without cracks or through knots. If the wood is damp, it must be dried (kept) at room temperature, but not near the stove or in the sun. Otherwise, she may be “led” and even “broken.”

The dimensions of the block must correspond to the largest dimensions of the model body: length, width and side height.

On one side of the block, using a pencil along a ruler, draw a line of the diametrical plane (the plane dividing the body in half along its length). Then the block is divided into spacing (the distance between the frames) and the outline of the deck is drawn (Fig. 22, a). Having processed the block with an ax and a plane (along the drawn contour), draw out the stem and sternpost of the model and also process it.

After this, according to the theoretical drawing, a transom is drawn on plywood, cut out with a jigsaw, coated with glue and nailed to the aft part of the blank. The lines for the location of the frames are drawn with a pencil on the sides of the blank. Then, using frame templates (Fig. 22, b), cut from plywood, the hull is brought to required sizes using a file and sandpaper.

Before hollowing out the hull, you need to drill a series of holes along the deck and use chisels to select the wood (Fig. 23). The thickness of the sides must be at least 6-8 mm.

For large model bodies, to prevent them from being “led”, it is better to make the block in typesetting. Two options can be offered. The first is a body made of horizontally glued boards. Their thickness should correspond to the distance between the waterlines on the theoretical drawing. On each board, draw a diametrical line, spacing and draw the corresponding contour of the waterline (Fig. 24, a). Having processed the board along the contour of the waterline from the outside, you need to cut out the wood from the inside, leaving an edge 6-8 mm wide (Fig. 24, b). The last board (bottom) is not cut from the inside. The treated boards are glued into a bag (Fig. 24, V). Now it is enough to cut off the protruding corners and bring the body, using templates (Fig. 24, d), to the required dimensions.

The second option is to build a body from vertically glued boards (Fig. 24e). In this case, buttocks are drawn on the treated boards from the “side” projection of the theoretical drawing. Here, too, each board is first processed along the outer contour of the buttock and cut out inner part. The two outer boards are left solid. Glued and dried boards are processed as in the previous case.

Using these methods, it is possible to greatly simplify the construction of model bodies, and they turn out to be more symmetrical.

Several methods can be proposed for the manufacture of a type-setting hull; the most common and rational is the construction of the hull on a deck flooring.

First you need to make a slipway board (Fig. 25). It should be well dressed. A diametrical line is drawn on the board and divided into spacing according to the theoretical drawing. Then, from the half-latitude projection drawing, the deck is drawn onto plywood 2-3 mm thick and cut out. On the deck, you should mark the center line and the installation locations of the frames, and then make cutouts along the sides to secure the frames in them.

The deck is installed on a slipway board. To give it a longitudinal deflection, wooden blocks are placed under it. The height of each block is determined according to the theoretical drawing

Rice. 22. Marking a block of wood (A) and processing of the body according to templates

frames ( b)

Rice. 23. Hollowing out the model body

https://pandia.ru/text/77/491/images/image004_125.jpg" width="338" height="142">

Rice. 25. Installing the deck on a slipway board:

1 - line for measuring the height of the bars, 2 - deck, 3 - deck flooring, 4 - slipway bars, 5 - slipway board

rice.26. Sequence of manufacturing a type-setting body:

a - frame prepared for installation on deck, b- keel frame, V - installation of bosses on the keel frame, G- part of the assembled hull on the slipway

"side view". To do this, you need to connect the bow end of the hull with a straight line to the stern end. The distance between the side of the deck and the drawn line on each embedment will be the height of each block. The blocks are nailed onto the slipway board, the deck is laid on them and its ends are secured with nails.

Now you can start making frames. To do this, from a theoretical drawing (the “body” projection), using tracing paper or copy paper, the frames are transferred to plywood 6-8 mm thick, then cut out with a jigsaw. The edges of the sawn frames are processed with files and sandpaper. Spikes are left in the upper part of the frames (along the sides), which will be inserted into the deck cutouts (Fig. 26, a). In the lower part of the frames, grooves are cut for installing the keel frame, which is drawn according to the theoretical drawing of the “side” projection and cut out of plywood 6-8 mm thick (Fig. 26, b).

In the bow and stern of the hull set, the size of one or two spacings are installed with bosses made of boards of soft wood - linden, alder, poplar (Fig. 26, c). The bosses are processed along the body profile with a rasp and sandpaper.

After this, the entire set is temporarily assembled, for which all the frames are inserted with tenons into the deck grooves and fastened with a keel frame.

By placing stringers on the frames, mark their installation locations. Their number depends on the size of the model. The larger the model, the more stringers.

Having completed the markings, the entire set is disassembled in order to cut out grooves in the frames and bosses for laying stringers (Fig. 26, d). Before final assembly, windows are cut out in the deck for access to the model, and all joints are coated two or three times with nitro glue and dried. Next, all the stringers are secured using nails and glue. Having removed the dried body kit from the slipway board, treat it with a garnish file and coat the outside two or three times with nitro glue. Now you can start covering the body with 1.5 mm thick plywood or thick cardboard.

Sheathing sheets are glued and nailed. When the body dries well, the nails can be removed or pressed with a core. After treating the body with a file and sandpaper, it must be coated two or three times with nitro glue so that in the future the nitro putty will stick to it more firmly. For better strength, it can be covered with one layer of fiberglass using PN-1 or ED-5 resin.

It is very easy to build a papier-mâché enclosure. It is glued from newsprint onto a blank made using one of the methods discussed above.

To prevent the first layers of paper from sticking to the body blank, it is coated with grease or Vaseline. The paper is torn into pieces measuring approximately 60 X 80 mm. It is not recommended to cut it with scissors. The first two or three layers are applied to the blank without glue, directly on the fat layer. The best glue to use is potato starch. Pieces of paper are placed so that each next overlaps the previous one.

For small-sized cases (700-900mm), it is enough to glue 9-11 layers of paper to get sides 2.5-3 mm thick. It is necessary to glue in several stages. After applying three or four layers, you should let them dry. Then, lightly sanding with sandpaper, stick on the same amount. Repeat this process several times.

Having removed the finished hull from the blank, two or three frames are glued into it and covered with a deck. Then everything is cleaned with sandpaper and, using nitro glue, covered with gauze or nylon stocking. Then the body can be puttied and painted.

The easiest way to make a metal case is by soldering small pieces of tinned sheet metal with a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm on a blank. You can also use thin brass for this.

Rice. 27. Making a body from tin:

A- a body made by soldering from pieces of tin, b - inserting a flat frame into the blank ; V- method of manufacturing T-frames, G- installation of T-frames; d- hull sheathing with sheets of tin, 1 - flat frame, 2 - tee frame,

3 - sheathing sheet

or copper. Pieces may be various sizes, depending on the complexity of the body contours. In the bow and stern parts of the model, the odes will be smaller than in the middle, since the middle part of the hull has less complex contours (Fig. 27, A).

The second method is soldering the body along flat frames cut from tin and placed in the grooves of the blank (Fig. 27, b). T-shaped (T-shaped) frames are also used, as they create good strength for the hull. Such frames are made in the following way. In the middle, strips of tin 20-24 mm wide are marked and the strip is bent in half along it. Then, at a distance of 5 mm from the edge of the bent part of the strip, a second mark is made, along which the workpiece in a vice is unbent on both sides and leveled with a mallet (Fig. 27, V). Before installing the frames, cuts are made on the blank. For this there are several hacksaw blades folded into a package equal in thickness to the width of the frames, and the middle sheet should protrude by 5-6 mm. The cuts should be such that the frames are flush with the blank, this

ensures smooth contours of the body. Their upper edges are nailed to the blank with small nails (Fig. 27, d).

Having installed all the frames in their places, you can start soldering
housings made of strips of tin. For each sheet of sheathing you do
cutting from paper Having cut out a sheet of tin according to it, it must be laid
in its place and “grab” solder in three or four places to the span
goutam, and the edges of the sheet should only overlap halfway
frame (Fig. 27, d).

Having installed the first sheet of sheathing, cut out all the others one by one and also “grab” them to the frames. In this way the entire body of the model is assembled. After this, you need to hammer it with a mallet, and then properly solder all the joints.

Before removing from the blank, the body is carefully processed with a file and sandpaper.

Now you can solder the stem and sternpost, as well as install them in the hull required quantity bulkheads, deadwoods and helmports. Having cut out the required number of windows for access to the model's mechanisms, the deck is installed in place and soldered. After finishing soldering, be sure to wash the body with a solution of baking soda or warm soapy water to remove any remaining acid. Before priming, it is recommended to wipe the body with acetone or solvent.

To glue a fiberglass body, wood blanks made using one of the previously described methods are used. The finished blank is carefully processed with sandpaper, all holes and cracks are filled with putty, and then a separating layer is applied to it. To do this, you can use heated paraffin, liquefied with kerosene, or mastic for polishing parquet floors. It is necessary to ensure that the surface of the blank is well covered with a separating layer, otherwise the fiberglass may stick to it and it will be impossible to remove it. Glue the body with polyester resin PN-1 or epoxy resins ED-5 and ED-6. For PN-1 resin, the hardening components are cobalt naphthanate, which is added to the resin at 8%, and the accelerator - hyperiz (it is added at 3%). Cobalt naphthanate is introduced into the resin first. When using epoxy resins, the plasticizer is dibutyl phthalate - 8%, and the hardener is polyethylene polyamine (10% is added).

Epoxy resins are slightly thicker than polyester resins, and it is recommended to thin them with toluene or acetone, of which 8-10% is added. 3-6 layers of fiberglass are glued onto the blank, depending on its thickness.

They do it as follows. Having coated the blank with resin, apply the first layer of fabric and carefully level it. Then they coat it again and apply a second layer of fabric. Each layer must be ironed well so that no air remains between them. Properly diluted resin hardens within 10-12 hours, so the next day, without removing the body from the blank, you can process it with files and sandpaper, and then cover it with putty.

which is made on the basis of the same resin. To do this, you need to add a filler - talc. After sanding, the body is removed from the blank. And to increase strength, 4 - 5 bulkheads are inserted. Then the deck is glued with the same resin, having previously made cutouts in it for access to the mechanisms.

§ 11 PAINTING OF MODELS

For painting models of ships and vessels, oil, enamel and nitro-enamel paints are most often used.

In order for the quality of painting to be good, it is necessary to comply with all stages of the technological process, consisting of surface preparation, priming, local and continuous puttying, sanding with sandpaper, applying paint and sanding it with thin sandpaper, polishing with pastes.

When preparing the surface wooden model Before painting, the body is treated with a plane, file and sandpaper, and defects (burrs, cracks, fallen knots) are eliminated. Metal models processed with files, sandpaper and degreased soda solution or soapy water. Priming the body for oil paints for better adhesion of subsequent layers is done with special primer No. 000a, and if it is not available, you can use natural drying oil or liquid oil paint (preferably red lead). For nitro paints you can use primer No. 000, AK-20 glue, enamel and nitro varnishes.

The primer is applied to the surface two to three times. After drying, each layer is treated with fine sandpaper.

Puttying is intended to level the surface. Local puttying (filling holes, scratches) is done with thick putty. After drying, it is sanded and the model is generally puttied with liquid putty in several layers.

Composition of putty for oil paints:

1. Talc or chalk - 350 g, drying oil - 125 g, paint (preferably red lead or white lead) - 25 g;

2. Chalk - 350 g, oil varnish - 100 g; red lead - 40 g.

Thick putty is applied with a spatula, knife or piece of elastic rubber 6-8 mm thick, and liquid putty is applied with a soft brush, flute or spray.

For nitro paints, putty ASh-30, ASh-24 and ASh-32 is used.

Nitro putty can be prepared by mixing talc (baby powder) with AK-20 nitro glue, enamel or any other nitro varnish.

Sanding is necessary to eliminate roughness after puttying or painting.

At the beginning of work (after local puttying), sandpaper No. 48-80 is used ; after the first layers of continuous putty - No. 80-

120; The last layers of putty are sanded with sandpaper No. 000-

To save sandpaper, wet sanding is recommended. When using waterproof sandpaper, the surface is moistened generously with water. If there is no waterproof sandpaper, then sand it with regular sandpaper soaked in kerosene. After each grinding with kerosene, before applying the coating, the surface is thoroughly washed with soda or soapy water and dried.

The quality of a model’s painting largely depends on the practical skills of the ship modeller, on the ability to prepare the surface and on the brands of paints used.

Painting is usually done with paint sprayers of the KR brands (KR-10, KR-11, KR-12). Any compressor can be used that produces a pressure of up to 3 ati, including small-sized S-511 and S-21.

The position of the spray gun should be such that the jet from it is directed perpendicular to the surface to be painted, the distance to which should be within 250-300 mm. The gun must be moved evenly, at a constant speed. If you move too quickly, the paint will lay down in a thin layer, if you move too slowly, it will be thick, which may result in smudges. The paint must be applied in successive parallel stripes. Each strip should overlap the adjacent one by 10-20 mm.

It is necessary to ensure the correct ratio of air pressure and the thickness of the paint coming from the spray gun. The air pressure should be 2-3 atm. The greater the pressure, the thicker the paint should be, and vice versa. This is determined experimentally on a test surface. Small details can be painted with a simple spray gun. For this purpose, nitro paint is diluted quite thinly.

When painting with brushes, the type of brush hair is of no small importance. The best brushes are made from squirrel, ferret, badger and bear fur.

Before starting work, new brushes need to be braided (tied) at the base with thread or thin twine. For thick paints, the part free from binding is made shorter, for liquid paints - longer.

During painting, hold the brush at an angle of 45-55° to the surface and apply the coating with light and free movements. In this case, you need to ensure that the paint is applied in an even, thin layer and does not form streaks.

When painting a model with nitro paints, you must remember that they dry very quickly. Therefore, you should not brush over the same area twice. Strokes should be short, in one direction. If a large drop hits the surface, it must be rubbed off immediately.

Nitro paints are diluted with RDV solvents, No. 000, 647, 648 and 649. They cannot be diluted with acetone, since it dries out the paint and cracks.

Coating is usually done oil paints in 2-3, and with nitro paints in 10-15 layers,

Rice. 28. Load line:
A - for bulk carriers and tankers; b - for passenger ships

The first coat of paint helps reveal remaining defects on the prepared surface. They must be removed by repeated puttying and sanding.

Before applying each subsequent layer, the previous one must be thoroughly dried. Drying time for oil paints should be at least 24 hours.

When painting a model, polishing is the final step. It is produced with a special polishing paste for passenger cars or GOI paste. The paste is applied to a soft rag, a piece of felt or felt and with circular movements the surface is brought to a mirror shine. Then it is wiped with polishing water, kerosene or liquid oil. The color of the model should not differ from the color of real vessels of this type. We can recommend the following basic rules when choosing a tint (color).

The surface of warships is painted in various shades of ball (gray) color. To obtain it, add 5 to white - 7% black paint.

The surface part of passenger ships (hull and superstructures) is painted white. The hull of cargo and cargo-passenger ships is painted black, and the superstructure is painted white. Smoke pipes ships with a white hull are white, those with a black hull are black.

The underwater part is painted with green or red paint. It is recommended to mark the waterline with a strip of celluloid.

Now it is appropriate to recall the load line and how it should be depicted on the sides of a model of a merchant ship.

If the load line is not applied to the ship model, then at competitions during the bench evaluation of the model you can receive penalty points.

A load line is a circle or a figure resembling a comb (Fig. 28, A and b). A horizontal line is drawn through the center of the circle,

the continuation of which on the “comb” is indicated by the letter L (summer mark). This is the so-called main brand.

When sailing in winter, for the sake of safe navigation and successful fight against storms, the ship should not be overloaded. It should have a lower draft and a larger freeboard, i.e., a larger reserve of buoyancy. This is taken into account on the load line and marked with the letter

3 (winter brand).

The North Atlantic is especially inhospitable in winter; a vessel sailing there must be most lightened. The permissible draft for such navigation is marked by the ZSA line (winter mark for the North Atlantic).

Several “comb” lines are applied above the main - summer mark. When sailing in the tropics, the weather is usually favorable for the voyage and there is no danger of icing. The vessel here can take on more cargo, have a greater draft and less freeboard. This is marked by the line T (tropical precipitation).

The greater the density of water, the greater its buoyancy force. When a ship from the sea enters a river, its draft increases. Therefore, two more lines are marked on the “comb” - P (fresh mark) and TP (tropical fresh mark).

According to international rules, which are mandatory for all maritime powers in the world, the shape of the load line is the same everywhere. The only difference is in the letters. Soviet merchant ships are marked with the letters P and S (register mark of the USSR).

Load lines of foreign merchant ships are designated by letters of the English alphabet. For example, L and R stand for the English company Lloyd's Register, A and B for the American Bureau of Shipping, etc.

On ships that transport timber, as well as cargo and passengers,

additional marks are applied.

On timber carriers, an additional drawing is made on the load line towards the stern of the circle with the addition of the letter L (L) - timber freeboard - to all letter names.

The load line is welded in the form of steel strips onto the side of the ship at the midship frame on each side and painted in a color different from the color of the freeboard. For example, if the side is black, then the stamp is painted with white paint; if the side is ball-colored, then the stamp is painted green or black.

Load lines are not marked on warships. On them, the stems on both sides have so-called deepening marks, or, as they are also called, draft marks. They should in no case be confused with the load line, since they only serve to measure the actual bow and stern draft at a given time.

Indentation marks are also applied on large ships, on both sides

at amidships, in addition to the load line

Typically, the marks of the recess on one side are indicated in the metric system, on the other - in 6 feet. In the first case, the height of the numbers and the distance between them is 1 dm, in the second - 0.5 feet.

Frigate Scarlet Sails

Step by step instructions

manufacturing

CHINESE JUNK

CHINESE JUNK
Now we have reached the most important part of the site.
I will give you approximate dimensions,
since I made the ship by eye and didn’t pay much attention to the dimensions. I didn’t write them down exactly, but there are some. I will not torment you with nautical terms because I myself am not good at them, but I will write in a common language. Well, you know the basic terms. Such as deck, mast, yard, keel. This is where we will begin our work with the keel. But first we will do some preparatory work. We take a sheet of veneer, place it on some kind of plywood or board, and coat it well with glue. We secure it with buttons so that the sheet does not curl when drying. Let's start with the keel, length 45 cm
the height of the front part is 12 cm, the back part is 8 cm. If the height dimensions are larger than anything terrible, you can always cut off the excess. After cutting out the keel, we sand it a little. We will remove the gloss, and if there is a textured coating, we will remove it completely.
Spread glue on one side and leave to dry. You can spread from two, as you prefer. While everything is drying, we mark the ribs of the ship. We make one blank template. The width of the rib is 16 cm, the height is 6 cm. The depth of the slot for inserting the keel is 1.5 - 2 cm. The width of the slot is equal to the thickness of the veneered keel. Next we proceed to veneering the keel. Who doesn't know how it's done
I'm telling you. Veneer mode on strips slightly larger than the width of the keel. We turn on the iron at full power so that the veneer does not burn during veneering. We place the veneer on the keel and smooth it with an iron until it is completely glued. We cut off the excess veneer and sand it with sandpaper packed onto a block.
After we have plywooded the keel, we will make the deck and will make the rest of the ribs of the ship. Deck length 45 cm, width 16 cm. We measure 15 cm on one side, this will be the beginning of the rounding of the bow. From the back we measure 11 cm, this will also be the beginning of the rounding. The width of the rear part of the deck is 4.5 cm. Photo 5 shows the deck. Now we're starting to have trouble with the rest of the ribs. Since our keel is curved with inside then the height of the ribs will naturally change in relation to the inside of the keel to the deck. I will try to explain how best to do this. Myself
I only realized when I made the fifth ship. And so let's get started. We place the keel on a piece of fiberboard as shown in photo 1. We mark 8 cm from the front and also from the back. And we draw stripes on the keel. It should look something like this:
the back side is 8 cm, the front side is 5 cm. On the front of the keel we make a step to support the deck (photo 5). Next, we try on the deck, cut off the excess, and turn it over to the top with the keel. We find the lowest point between the keel and the deck and install the first rib. Immediately make marks on the keel and on the deck where you install the ribs. Let's make the next edge. It will be installed at the mark where the front part of the deck begins to curve.
The rib width is 16 cm. We measure the height from the deck to the keel, taking into account the slot. Example. The width of the rib is 14 cm. The height from the inside of the keel to the deck is 3 cm + the depth of the slot is 2 cm and also 5 cm. Next, we take the first template blank. We place the future rib on the rectangle, combining the upper part and the upper right corner. Draw along the contour. We do the same with the left corner. The height of the workpiece will change but the basic rib configuration
will remain. We also do the back part and one edge between them. After this we make the ribs of the bow of the model. The approximate distance between the ribs is 3 cm. The same is true for the back. After the ribs are ready and adjusted, we glue them, let them fasten and glue the deck.
When this is all done, we make inserts between the ribs around the entire perimeter. Next, we clean everything up and make bevels on the ribs from the bow and back of the ship. After this, we cut a piece from the veneer sheet to the size of the central part of the ship, coat it with glue, let it dry a little and glue it with an iron. We begin the most labor-intensive work: plywood the bottom of the ship in strips. I have them
width is 6 mm. We take the prepared veneer sheet and cut it. After the strips have been cut, it is necessary to process the edges, clean out burrs and minor irregularities. Glue stripes in the central part
of the ship one to one to the bow and to the rear of the ship with an overlap. Pre-apply fresh glue to the gluing area. This is what we got. Now let's clean everything up and start making additional decks. The front part of the deck starts from the beginning of the curve and protrudes 3 cm. The width of the bow part is 9 cm. The width of the part from the curve is 16.6 cm. After gluing, it will be processed, rounded and will be equal to the width of the main deck.
The rear part also starts from the curve and is 16.6 cm, protruding by 4 cm. The width of the rear part is 9.5 cm. Additional decks have been made; now we will glue them in the same order (you can also glue them using an iron).
First we glue the front part of the deck. Then we plywood it. After this, we ply the main deck before starting to round and install the back of the additional deck. Next we glue the back part. It does not need to be veneered since it is covered with deck superstructures. The decks are glued, rounded and we move on to making the sides of the rear part of the model. We cut two strips 4 cm wide. You determine the length yourself. Start from the point of curvature. The rear part of the board has a deployed
angle 105 degrees. After the strips have been cut out, we make slits on them in the place where they will be
bend along the contour of the deck and apply glue. Once the glue has dried, we begin to veneer. We cut two strips of veneer to width and glue them with an iron, simultaneously bending them along the contour of the deck. We made the side boards, but since they need to be turned out, we carefully sharpen them at an angle, trying them on to the deck. Then we glue them. Making the back of the side will not be difficult for you. Next we move on to
deck superstructure at the rear of the model. The photo shows what she looks like. The superstructure deck configuration must be integral. A small explanation about the photo. Lateral
the platforms should be 1.5 cm longer towards the back of the model. After we have made the deck, we make an insert with windows and other inserts in the openings for the stairs. When we have all the inserts ready and adjusted, we glue them to the deck and after that we glue the deck itself. The deck was glued and after that we plywooded it. Next we make the following sides of the deck superstructure and an insert with windows. The back of the sides will no longer be unfolded, but at a right angle. After the last deck has been made, glued and veneered, we make
finishing sides. With the rear deck superstructure completed, we move on to the bow of the model. We also make front sides with
at an angle of 115 degrees. They also start from the beginning of the additional deck. The sides were made, installed and glued. We proceed to the manufacture of the insert with windows and the upper platform. Dimensions of the upper platform. Length 15 cm, (excluding the balcony) width of the front part 12 cm. Protrudes 6 cm. The back part of the platform is slightly wider than the sides by about 7-8 mm on each side. After we have made the platform and the insert with the windows, we glue them. Then we ply the area. Next we make the sides of the central part of the model. We cut 2 strips, ply them on the inside, mark them
cannon ports and cut through them. The port size is 1.5 cm by 1.5 cm. The gap between the ports is also 1.5 cm. The ports are 5-6 mm above the deck level.
With the sides finished, we proceed to veneering the outer part of the ship. After veneering the ship, we make ladders. We're done with the stairs, let's move on to the railings. 4 mm stripe mode. We plywood them on three sides, glue them at a distance of 1 mm from the edge, sawing them on a mustache. Next, we mark them and drill holes for installing pilasters under the railings themselves. After that we make the railing ourselves. The same strip mode, but we only veneer the edges. A little trick. The photo shows that the corner pilasters are slightly higher than the others. This is to make it easier to mark.
We drilled a hole, tried it on the pilaster, and marked the remaining points for the pilasters. After all the railings have been installed. We cut off the excess, clean it and
plywood. We do the same in the bow of the ship. Next, we ply the edges of the sides of the ship and clean the entire ship. Let's move on to marking and installing masts. The length of the masts is at your discretion. The diameter of the mast at the bottom is 10-12 mm. At the top 4-5 mm. So that you can drill a hole to install a flagpole made from a toothpick. The ship is completely ready and we begin to sea it. We seam those parts that you consider necessary. We're done with the stain. We make 2 additional fastenings for the ropes (photo 24) and two blocks for raising the sails (photo 25). All that remains is to varnish the model, make the sails, and then install them. For the sails we will need material, a sheet of whatman paper for the pattern, wooden round skewers and the nearest workshop for sewing and repairing clothes. I hope you can handle making and installing sails.

Sailing ships are divided into frigates and battleships. The most powerful three-masted ships are battleships, which are characterized by displacement, armament and the size of the crew.

This class of sailing ships dates back to the seventeenth century, with the advent of artillery (cannons) capable of conducting linear combat (simultaneously from all onboard guns from the side line).
In shortened form they are called “battleships”.

Model drawings can be downloaded for free from the website or from other sources.

In May 1715, the Russian 3rd rank cannon battleship Ingermanland (64 guns) was launched from the Admiralty shipyard in St. Petersburg. Peter I himself took part in the development of its drawings. The battleship had impressive dimensions for that time: length - 52 m; width – 14m; hold depth - 6m. Peter's golden standard soared on his mast. This ship was the flagship of the Russian fleet for a long time.

Ship ranks in the sailing fleet:

• The first rank is a three-deck or four-deck, the largest sailing ship (from sixty to one hundred and thirty guns).
• The second rank is three-deck (a ship with three decks) (from forty to ninety-eight guns).
• The third rank is two-deck (from thirty to eighty-four guns).
• The fourth rank is two-deck (from twenty to sixty guns).

L"Artemise

L "Artemiz was a cannon frigate of the French fleet. Magicienne frigate class, weight 600 tons, on board 32 guns, of which 26 were twelve-pound long guns and 6 were six-pound guns. The frigate was laid down in Toulon in December 1791. It had a length of 44 meters 20 centimeters .

Frigates were military ships with one or two decks and three masts. They differed from battleships in their smaller size. Their purpose is cruising service, reconnaissance (long-range), a surprise attack on an object with the aim of further capture or destruction. The largest models were called linear frigates. According to statistics, more frigate models are downloaded for free than battleships.

Some people have a strange, but very remarkable and colorful hobby. It is called assembling ship models from wood. What do you need to make one like this? beautiful thing. Creating a wooden model is not so easy. From this article you will learn how to create one out of wood with your own hands. We will also take a short excursion into history.

Francis Drake

Many history buffs know the name of the “Iron Pirate”; his homeland was England. He became the captain of a sailing ship at just 16 years of age. At first he was a ship's priest, and then a simple sailor. But his fame really exploded when he became a brave and very formidable pirate. In the 16th century, he made quite a few voyages and took part in a considerable number of battles.

Golden Hind

At the moment of dawn of fate, several sailing ships arrived on his property. His main flagship was the Pelican. This ship was a five-deck, three-masted ship. There were 20 artillery weapons on board. All kinds of maritime stories rarely tell us that a ship that already has a name can be renamed, but it was with the Pelican that, by the will of fate, such a story happened. In 1578, Francis Drake changed the name of this ship to "Golden Hind" (in Russian this name sounds like "Golden Hind"). It was under this second that it was inscribed in sparkling gold letters in world history seafarers. Francis Drake performed quite a few breathtaking deeds on it, which were later recounted in history and adventure books.

It is such wonderful ships that make many people assemble wooden ship models with their own hands. Drawings of many similar designs can often be found on the Internet. So, inspired ancient history navigation we will learn from this article information on how to do something similar.

DIY wooden ship model: from beginning to rainbow horizons

In fact, the history of modeling consists of several stages. Moreover, each of these stages is associated with several characteristics. A miniature shipbuilding enthusiast may need to be able to modify available materials. It is also important to expand the choice of modeling objects. Once it has developed enough, then it can have mass production of models. The next stage will be the development of bench exhibition modeling from the kits that he already has. Subsequently, it can develop to the formation of individual segments. It can be anything - from ship models and in flesh to copies of individual motorcycles, trucks, as well as all sorts of other cars.

DIY wooden ship models: drawings, instructions, tools

So, well, let's start creating such a ship. Carving prefabricated wooden ship models is not the easiest task. You will need many tools for this. Among them are: a knife, a chisel, a hammer, a block (and, if necessary, a saw), thin cloth, superglue, a long wooden spike, a rope, a drill. In addition to this, you will need two more very important parameters. Firstly, it is time, and secondly, an important quality of those people who create prefabricated models of ships from wood is patience.

Carving of a ship from wood

First you have to work with a chisel. You should file everything plus remove the old bolts that have a flat head. It won't take you much time - just two minutes. In these two minutes, the pre-processed block will later become a boat. Now you need to clean the block. You should carefully scrape off the bark. Hold the block itself directly towards the tool. Let's take the standard design as an example for our small ship models, which we will build according to the principle below. Take a pencil and sketch a preliminary sketch on a block. Following this, process the block sharp knife. The tilt of the blade itself should be at an angle of about 10 degrees. When you plan, keep in mind that this is not the most light work, so be patient. You should not forget that if for any reason you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to correct everything. Remove the chips layer by layer, while you should try and process the original block as smoothly as possible. It is important that the top and bottom must be parallel.

Please note that you don't have to throw away the shavings at all. The fact is that, in principle, it can be used as an additional material as mulch.

Carving of the front and sides of the ship

Well, now we need to draw the front, bottom, and also the back. We will cut them out in exactly the same way as above. It is necessary to make these parts even. In order to get the bow of the ship, you will have to saw off a piece from the front. Following this, you should round off the cut using a knife. When you make the nose, try to tilt the knife blade itself back. It should be directed towards the stern.

Drilling holes and subsequent installation of equipment

You should have several spiers. Therefore, drill a number of holes; they should be slightly larger in size than the beams themselves. It is important that there are not too many holes. Otherwise, you may end up with a crack. And because of a crack, as we know, a serious disaster can occur - a leak. Don't use glue! If you do this, then further work will be much more difficult.

Installing sails on the model

First, decide how many panels you want to have on your final ship. Let's take as a condition that we will have four panels for the first mast and the second, and three for the last. Following this, take some wooden spiers and cut them. Cut the fabric into a trapezoid shape. Then start gluing them together. Make notches on the branches of the sails, fasten each branch with a corresponding notch. Then glue the middle of the edges to the sails. Repeat the same for all masts. It is best if you build the rear mast first, then the middle one, and then the bow one.

Now let's start installing the upper flying sail. Cut out a shape from fabric in the form kite. Take the thread and attach it to the opposite corner of the panel. Leave ends on both sides for all corners. Glue small piece threads exactly on the top of the boat. It should be slightly higher than the bow of the boat itself. Measure from the opposite corner to the middle of the lower branch of the sail on the front mast. Then cut off the thread that you measured and glue the tip to the appropriate place.

You should leave a few threads on each side. Pull them back and glue them straight inside the boat. Then you can cut off the excess rope. Create and attach the back panel in the same way. It should be attached to the back of the rear sail. Measure, cut, and make sure it fits the two tabs. Then glue them in the corners.

Well, now you have learned how to make simple wooden ship models. And although in this article everything is described only in general outline, we hope that it will help you in your future career as a “shipbuilder”. If, of course, you are interested in this. Believe me, this is a worthwhile activity!