As soon as the ground is free of snow, some of the insulation is removed from the rose bushes, wrapped for the winter. Treat roses in the spring against pests and diseases, prune, lay correct formation bush, loosen the soil, remove weeds and feed the queen of the garden - this is how the season begins. And just like that it ends in the fall.

Disease and pest control begins with the right choice site, high-quality soil preparation, creation good drainage, permissible distance between bushes, compatibility with neighboring plants, varietal characteristics and care.

When choosing roses, you should pay attention to the disease resistance of the material selected for planting. You need to choose a variety within a garden group (class), and not just a group: park, hybrid tea, etc. Many gardeners believe that certain classes of roses are pest-tolerant and disease-resistant. However, there are many varieties that are prone to serious diseases and defenseless against insects.

An interesting fact: plants can have 2 types of resistance:

1. 1 Phenotypic. The variety is resistant to the disease in certain regions of the country or only in one.
2. 2 Genotypic. Caused by the presence of genes that are not influenced by climate, location or gardening practices.

That is why, when the term “variety resistance” is used without specific varietal characteristics and reference to the place of growth, its use may turn out to be incorrect if only the genotypic resistance of the variety is taken into account.

Rose bush diseases

The queen of the garden is susceptible to diseases, which, depending on the etiology, are divided into infectious, caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, and non-infectious, arising under the influence of adverse atmospheric factors and cultivation errors.

One of the most dangerous is black spotting. Its causative agent, a fungus, overwinters in fallen leaves. Infection begins after long rains and manifests itself in black spots that appear at the bottom of the plant on the surface of the leaves and spread to the very top. The spots merge, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Black spot control measures include:

• pruning affected shoots;
• removal of affected leaves;
• planting roses in places with good air circulation;
• lack of wetting of leaves when watering;
• late autumn and early spring treatment of roses with a 0.6-0.8% solution of copper oxychloride;
• spraying at least 3 times during the growing season with 0.4% copper oxychloride, 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that appears as a white powdery coating on infected leaves. They dry out and fall off, roses slow down and may die. Moist air does not play a significant role in the spread of the fungus, since its mycelium is carried by the wind and develops on warm and dry days followed by cool and humid nights. Protective measures when an incipient disease is detected are as follows:

• fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
• spraying 3-4 times during the growing season with an interval of 2 weeks with soda-soap liquid (30-50 g of soda ash and 40-50 g of soap per 10 liters of water);
• treatment of fermented slurry;
• spraying with 1% colloidal sulfur.

In case of pronounced signs of the disease, rose bushes should be treated every 7-10 days until the infection is completely suppressed.

There are several types of fungi that cause various damage to the stems and leaves of the plant: infectious burn, bacterial spot, scab. They usually form ulcerations or spots brown, quickly turn black, but may appear as shriveled, albeit green, areas of the stem. Starting on one side, spore-forming structures quickly “ring” the stem, causing its death. Experts say one of the reasons for fungal damage is stress in roses caused by improper care. Therefore, treatment methods include not only chemicals, but also the growing culture:

• adequate shelter throughout the winter;
• mulching only after the soil freezes;
• gradual removal of shelters until a period of complete cessation spring frosts and their complete elimination at above-zero temperatures;
• trimming stems below damage, destroying (burning) damaged shoots;
• moderate watering.

Treatment of roses against diseases of this etiology is similar to methods of combating spotting. The treatment of gray rot, caused by fungi of the genus Botrytis and affecting leaves, buds, and stems, largely depends on the care of roses. A special place in the growing culture healthy plant are occupied by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and spraying with 0.4% copper oxychloride.

Bacterial cancer and rhizome rot are among the more complex diseases roses The following are important: strict selection of planting material, burning of infected plants, pruning of lateral roots and disinfection of the root system for 5 minutes in a 1% solution copper sulfate. It is not advisable to plant roses in heavy soils.

Insect damage

The most common herbivorous pests that feed on the sap of young shoots and newly opened leaves are aphids. The plant weakens, the leaves turn yellow, curl and die. The most important thing in controlling this green, red, yellow or black insect is to prevent it from spreading. The fight should begin with the appearance of the first individuals:

• spray with a decoction or infusion of insecticidal plants (garlic, tobacco, onion, hellebore) or soap, repeating the procedure every 2 weeks;
• wash off the pest with a strong stream cold water;
• remove aphids by hand while there are only a few of them;
• plant umbrella plants in the garden, which the ladybug loves.

The larvae of this natural enemy of aphids can now be ordered online. Wasps and earwigs can also help.

The Japanese beetle, or Japanese beetle, is insatiable, preferring buds and flowers, but also attacks foliage. Gardeners usually collect beetle larvae by hand when they crawl out from a depth of almost 2 meters in the spring. Sodding the area helps. Biologists have proven that the beetle larva does not tolerate nitrogen, so clover with tuberous bacteria, which absorbs nitrogen from the air, is especially good for these purposes.

Attracting starlings and thrushes to the garden is an environmentally friendly way to control beetles. There is a decoction in the arsenal of remedies onion peel. A bucket of husks is completely filled with water and infused for 5 days.

Traps with sticky liquid: grease, glue, illuminated from below with a lamp, also attract pests. Another simple one folk way: Early in the morning, torpid beetles are shaken off the bushes and fed to the birds.

Wasps do not cause serious damage to plants and do not infect them with diseases. Their harm is rather visual. Perfectly round indentations appear on the glossy leaves of the rose. The wasps use these pieces of leaves for their burrows.

But the red spider mite, as well as the black or brown mite - a relative of spiders - pierces the underside of rose leaves and sucks the juice out of them. The leaf "greys" or becomes bronze. Ticks reproduce quickly. There are a lot of them in dense gardens. A strong stream of water every 2-3 days will interrupt them life cycle. Among chemical agents, it is recommended to use acaricides.

Thrips are very small brown insects that live in the part of the plant that they feed on. A damaged bud with specks or scratched flower petals is a sign of thrips. Their hard jaws cause these injuries. Thrips are especially attracted to light colored roses. Some improvement in the situation can be achieved by spraying with insecticides and infusions of insecticidal plants at intervals of 5-7 days.

The same means of control are used in case of sawfly damage.

Spring plant protection

There are no special medications for most rose diseases. Fungicides, for example, cannot cure infected plants, but they can stop the spread of fungal diseases.

Therefore, spring for a gardener is a hot time for preventive measures:

Month	Care	Protection
March	pruning, cleaning bushes from leaves and pruning residues; first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers (15 g of nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium salt); digging or loosening the soil; planting at the distance required for a particular variety.	spraying the soil with copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) and iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water); in the second half of the month, 2nd preventive treatment of bushes (3% solution of Bordeaux mixture + 80 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water).
April	end of trimming; fertilization; watering in dry weather; For climbing roses install pergolas, walls and other supports.	manual collection of weevils, destruction of peduncles and buds damaged by them; collecting bronzes in a jar of kerosene; when the buds are swollen, spray against diseases and pests: 30 g of karbofos + 50 g of copper oxychloride + 80 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water.
May	cutting dry shoots and weak branches; removal of rose hips at the roots; mulching the soil with peat, humus, compost; loosening after watering and precipitation.	spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture + 80 g of sulfur per 10 l of water or foundation - 15 g per 10 l of water; when leaf rollers and aphids appear, spray with karbofos (30 g per 10 liters of water); spraying bushes against aphids with an infusion of potato tops or a solution of green soap (200-300 g per 10 liters of water).

Roses are sensitive to many diseases and harmful insects, but can survive without additional protection. But they are unlikely to be as beautiful as healthy plants.

Spring treatment of roses involves not only pruning shoots, installing supports and mulching, but also mandatory spraying of plants with special preparations that protect them from insect invasion. All work must be carried out before the rose buds begin to develop. The main indicator of a favorable time for working with plants is the establishment of above-zero temperatures and the complete disappearance of snow.

Treatment of the root system and shoots

The growth of the root system is stimulated using spring pruning plants. To do this, select the main healthy branches and shorten them to one of the strong buds. They also remove those shoots that grow inside the bush and interfere with the creation of a beautiful crown with open center. To nourish the roots and stimulate their growth, healthy bushes are watered warm water with the addition of one tablespoon of ammonium nitrate per bucket of water. The soil must be sufficiently enriched with nitrogen compounds for optimal leaf growth and bud set.

If young shoots were damaged in winter, resulting in mold appearing on them, in addition to watering with the addition of saltpeter or urea, the branches of the plant must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, making it a deep pink color. Each damaged shoot is wiped with a cloth soaked in the solution or potassium permanganate is applied using a small brush. The potassium permanganate solution can be replaced with copper sulfate diluted in water: 100 g per bucket of water.

Protection from pests and diseases

The most common insect pests found on different varieties- these are various caterpillars, aphids, spider mite, thrips, roseate sawfly. Preventive measures must be taken before the leaves begin to bloom, otherwise it will be much more difficult to fight the pest that has spread throughout the bush.

Treating roses against insects is done by spraying the plants with a saturated soap solution, tobacco or pepper infusion. You can get rid of roseate aphids using an infusion of nettle, tomato tops, wormwood or yarrow.

To protect roses from powdery mildew, black or rust spots caused by various microorganisms, plants are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate or a solution of Bordeaux mixture - 200 g per bucket of water. Spraying roses must be carried out in calm weather, taking measures to protect the respiratory system. In addition, to protect roses while feeding them, you can use a solution of cow manure: 1 kg per bucket of water.

The rose is considered the queen of the garden, and she certainly deserves this title. Data beautiful flower It has been admired and worshiped for a very long time, and it has even been chosen as a symbol of love. In the chronicles of Ancient Iran and in the legends of the ancient Hindus, a rose is already mentioned. According to legend, a white rose with incredibly sharp thorns is the creation of Allah himself. This plant was supposed to replace the lovely but lazy Lotus, and instead become the queen of flowers. You can also decorate your garden if you wish by planting this flower. How you care for your roses in the spring after they open will determine appearance bushes and abundance of flowering. Underestimating the importance spring treatment roses, you risk turning a lush shrub into a decrepit bush with weak, diseased and pest-infested shoots and single small flowers. Therefore, after removing the winter shelter, be sure to carry out preventive spraying of flowers against diseases and pests. Will we tell you how to treat roses in the spring?

Removing winter covers

Roses that are thoroughly covered for the winter open gradually in the spring.

1. When positive daytime temperatures are established, the air should be opened slightly at the ends. top layer roofing felt or plastic film over the shelter, leaving in place the breathable agrofibre insulation underneath. Without ventilation, roses are in danger of dying from damping off.
2. As soon as the snow melts, the permanent frame shelter must be completely removed. The approximate date for the middle zone is the end of April, for the northern regions - the beginning of May. To open roses were not harmed by sunburn and sudden daily temperature changes, they should be covered in one layer of breathable agrofibre.
3. After the end of the period of possible spring frosts, the roses are finally opened. IN middle lane this happens at the end of May, in the northern regions - in early June.

Timing for processing roses in spring?

At the beginning of spring, roses are gradually hardened off, opening them only from the north side to avoid burns. The winter shelter is completely removed as soon as a stable above-zero temperature is established in the yard. If you live in the middle zone, most likely you have already taken off the winter “clothes” from your roses. In early spring, before rose bushes begin to grow, they are treated to remove microorganisms and insect larvae. Specific dates depend on weather and climate zone, but in the middle zone this period usually falls in April.

How to properly process roses?

Correctly means using the preparations in accordance with the recommendations, choosing the time of work in favor of the bush, and not as better than a florist, if necessary, do not neglect preparation. What does this look like in practice?

1. Roses are sprayed immediately after preparing the solution, and not whenever it pleases, maybe tomorrow.
2. The sprayer is chosen with a nozzle that sprays “fog” rather than large drops of water.
3. The treatment is carried out on a cloudy, cool day without wind or rain.
4. On a good sunny day, work is carried out either early in the morning or at sunset.
5. If it so happens that the plantings need to be urgently saved, and there is still wind, they spray from the leeward side.
6. Spring prevention is carried out after the pruning of a low-growing or climbing rose has been done and all debris has been removed.
7. Regardless of the time of work - spring, summer, autumn - solutions are not sprayed onto damp shoots.
8. For prevention, it is recommended to use drugs that are common to all diseases or pests. For treatment, they take exactly the remedy that can solve a specific problem.
9. To avoid burns of leaves and shoots, mineral oil products, for example “preparation 30”, are not used together with organic fungicides such as “Kaptan”, “Tsiram” and the like.
10. During repeated prophylaxis or at the second stage of treatment, it is undesirable to use the same means. For a more effective final result, drugs must have not only a different name, but also different components.

How to treat roses in spring to protect them from pests?

• "Fitoverm";
• "Insecticide";
• "Karbofos";
• soap solution;
• iron or copper sulfate;
• nettle infusion.

Preventative measures are always more effective than directly combating the disease.

How to treat aphids on roses

The insect is located in huge quantities on the back of the leaves. The larvae are so small that sometimes they are impossible to see. They grow quickly into wingless females that produce offspring up to 10 times a year. By the end of the summer season, individuals with wings appear. Such aphids are already laying eggs that will overwinter and in a favorable period new hordes of pests will appear again.

Bushes damaged by aphids grow poorly, ugly flowers bloom on them, leaves fall off, and shoots become crooked.

How to treat the bushes then? Suitable means for spring treatment, before the buds swell, chemical agents: karbofos, metathion, rogor. You can also mix kerosene with water - 200 g: 10 l.
The folk remedy has also proven itself well:

• garlic or onion – 300 gr.
• tomato leaves – 400 gr
• water – 3 l

Chop the leaves and chop the onion (garlic), add water and let it brew in a warm place for several hours. Strain and bring to a volume of 10 liters. For greater efficiency add laundry soap. Treat the bush for a week at least five times a day.

Treating roses with copper sulfate in spring

To prevent pests and diseases, it is recommended to treat rose bushes early spring(in March-April), before the buds open, with a solution of copper sulfate (100 - 150 g per 10-liter bucket of not cold water). And before spraying with vitriol, it is recommended to carry out a spring sanitary pruning. Then, when stable warmth sets in, the roses are thoroughly watered and fed.

Another printed source says that preventive spraying of roses and the soil around the bushes should be carried out after complete removal of coverings and pruning - in the month of May, using copper-containing preparations, according to the instructions. You can also use Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 100 g per 10 liters of water.

If the stems are damaged by mold as a result of improper winter shelter (usually affected during winter thaws), treatment with potassium permanganate is useful (a dark pink, but not burgundy, solution of potassium permanganate is applied to the branches and trunk with a brush). It can be replaced with a solution of copper sulfate (a bucket of water + 100 g of sulfate).

Caring for roses is not difficult; even a novice florist can cope with the task. It is recommended not to postpone events and carry them out efficiently. Thanks to spring care, you will get a beautiful flower garden that will delight your eyes and your heart.

Planting and caring for roses in spring. Proper pruning roses in spring. The procedure for grafting a rose onto a rosehip. Feeding and treating roses in spring against pests and diseases.

What could be more beautiful than blooming, fragrant roses?! These flowers are a real decoration and pride of any garden. But, as many flower gardeners know, roses are rather finicky and capricious plants. These beauties require maximum attention, proper and timely care.

This article will help beginning rose growers grow gorgeous bushes and not lose them during such an important period of the year for them - in the spring.

When to open roses in spring?

• Many rose growers, who have not had time to rejoice at the fact that their favorites have begun to take root in their garden, are faced with the fact that in the spring, after the opening of the rose bushes, they begin to die. Unhappy gardeners are faced with the question: “Why is this happening?” After all, in winter the roses were properly covered, and in the spring, after opening, they had a fresh, healthy look and even threw out their buds. The answer is simple: “Overheating.”
• In spring, when all nature around begins to awaken, the same happens with roses. Their bushes come to life, young buds appear on the branches. But the catch is that, despite the development of the upper part of the rose bush, its lower part, that is, the root system, is still asleep. This is due to the fact that the air is exposed to sun rays and above-zero temperatures it is already warming up, but the ground remains frozen.
• When the snow begins to actively melt, the water formed during the melting process accumulates at the roots of the bushes and stagnates there, which provokes the process of rotting.
• This state of affairs suggests that there is no need to rush to open roses, but you should not delay this procedure either. In the first case, you can get frostbite on the bush, and in the second, overheating.

• Experienced rose growers recommend opening roses gradually after winter.
• Firstly, the most optimal shelter for these whimsical beauties is an air-dry system.
• Secondly, with the first rays of the sun in March, it is advisable to throw a little snow on the bare areas of such a system. Standard, ground cover and climbing bushes are also best sprinkled with snow.
• Thirdly, from the end of March to the beginning of April, it is necessary to completely clear the pink shelters of snow. Another important measure is the location of drainage channels close to the roses, which will allow melt water not to stagnate in the growth zone of the bushes, but to flow into specially designated areas.
• Also during this period, it is necessary to begin preparing the tops of the plant directly for their imminent exposure. To do this, it is recommended to slightly open the sides of the shelter and give the roses time to ventilate thoroughly. Afterwards, the shelter needs to be closed again, leaving small gaps at the top for gradual ventilation inside it.

The soil around miniature, groundcover, standard and climbing roses, covered with spruce branches or foliage for the winter, must be loosened slightly to loosen the soil compacted over the winter. It is also advisable to raise the edges of the shelter of such bushes a little to allow the bushes to ventilate.

It is possible to finally free roses from their winter shelter only when it is warm outside during the day and frost is still possible at night. The main indicator of the readiness of rose bushes to open is the melting of the soil to a depth of 20 cm.

It is necessary to free roses from the winter “shroud” gradually, step by step, day by day:

• Step 1 - open the ends of the shelter
• Step 2 - open the east side
• Step 3 - open the north side
• Step 4 - remove the cover completely
• Step 5 - shade the roses with paper or spruce branches

Released roses must be put in order after hibernation - remove unusable, dry branches and foliage, and also clear the ground under the bush of old leaves and twigs.

When is it better to plant and replant roses - in spring or autumn?

Autumn or spring planting and transplanting roses - which is better?

Roses can be planted and replanted both in spring and autumn. In more northern latitudes, with a humid climate, it is also possible to plant rose bushes in the summer.

If you still have to choose between spring and autumn, then many rose growers prefer to replant their pets in the fall.

Autumn time can boast of those favorable weather conditions that roses need in the first days and weeks after planting:

1. Weather stability - if at the beginning of spring frosts and night frosts are still very likely, then in September-October they are rather the exception to the rule.
2. Increased air humidity - autumn time Humidity is typical at 85-90%, but in spring it is only up to 60%.
3. Rains - they also fall much more in the fall than in the early spring.
4. Seasonal sales of seedlings - at the end of the gardening season you can purchase treasured seedlings at more affordable prices than at the beginning.

The only drawback autumn planting roses can be called difficult when working with plants with an open root system. In the spring, such seedlings will take root better than in the fall.

How to properly plant a rose in the ground in spring?

U spring planting roses in the ground there are several main stages and important points.

Safety of planting material

• Rose seedlings must be stored at temperatures up to +5 degrees (on the balcony, veranda, in the refrigerator).
• Store-bought, packaged rose roots should not be opened.
• If the root system of the purchased rose seedling looks a little dry, then the soil around it can be slightly moistened.
• Keep planting material must be in a horizontal position.

Preparing the site for planting

• The optimal place for planting roses will be a well-lit piece of land, protected from the winds.
• It is forbidden to plant roses in low-lying areas where there is accumulation of melt water in the spring and after autumn rains.
• As for the composition of the soil, roses do not show particular whimsicality - they manage to get along in any soil (subject to grafting onto rose hips).
• To plant a bush, you need to dig a hole 70 cm deep (the depth of the hole will directly depend on the size of the seedling's rhizomes).
• If the selected plot of land cannot boast of anything other than sand in its composition, then clay, compost and a small amount of mineral fertilizers must be added to the dug hole.

• We take rose seedlings out of storage.
• Carefully open root system seedlings.
• We trim the damaged roots to healthy flesh.
• We trim each root by a couple of centimeters.
• We adjust the roots that stand out from others in length to fit the general parameters.
• Soak the rose seedling in the growth stimulator for a few minutes.
• If necessary, treat the roots of the seedling with a light solution of copper sulfate.
• We install the bush in the hole so that the rosehip graft faces south, and after filling the hole it is 6-8 cm below ground level.
• We fill the installed seedling with soil up to half.
• Water the future rose thoroughly.
• We fill the remaining space.
• We compact the soil around the seedling.
• We hill it 15-20cm in height.
• Cover the seedling with translucent material.

When planting a rose seedling, you can use another method:

• We dig a hole
• Fill it generously with water with a heteroauxin tablet diluted in it.
• We lower the seedling into the hole
• Gradually fill the hole, carefully compacting layer by layer
• The planted bush does not need watering

The optimal time for planting roses in spring is considered to be the end of April - the beginning of May.

How to feed roses in spring for lush flowering in the garden?

• Any plant needs feeding. Roses in this case are no exception. In order to enjoy the colorful, fragrant buds of these beauties in the summer, they need to be fertilized in the spring.
• The first feeding of roses in the spring is carried out during the budding period.
• After winter, roses need nitrogen and phosphorus.
• Urea and rotted manure (humus) can provide nitrogen to the queen of flowers.
• As for phosphorus, you can feed the rose with it by adding superphosphates and ammophos to the soil.
• When combining urea and phosphates, it is worth considering that the latter also contain nitrogen, so it is advisable to reduce the amount of urea.
• To apply mineral fertilizers around the rose bush, it is recommended to organize a circle with a radius of 30 cm. You need to fill the resulting circle with mineral fertilizers and mulch them.
• Fertilizers can also be applied to the soil in diluted form during irrigation.
• You can add manure or compost to the fertilizer hole.

Treatment of roses in spring against diseases and pests

• The rose, like many other plants, is susceptible various diseases and pest attack. Spring - great time to prevent such cases.
• On the shelves of gardening stores today you can find a lot universal remedies, allowing you to protect rose bushes from several problems at once. By treating your garden beauty according to the instructions, you can avoid most diseases and pest attacks throughout the year.
• Bordeaux mixture has proven itself very well as a preventive measure. It is recommended to treat the rose with a 15% solution of this substance during bud break. To be on the safe side, this procedure can be repeated in a week or two.
• Spraying the ground under the rose bush with a 35% solution of iron sulfate can help in the fight against scale insects and aphids. The first signs of such problems may be yellowing of the foliage and the formation of rust on it.
• A solution of mullein or ash will help overcome powdery mildew. Spraying with these substances will help not only get rid of the disease, but also feed the plant.
• The main rule for processing roses is to perform it on a not bright, windless, dry day.

Pruning roses in spring for beginners

Pruning roses in spring is a very important procedure that affects the number of flowers on the bush and its proper formation.

Here are the basic rules for spring pruning of rose bushes:

• We do pruning after mature buds appear.
• First of all, remove all diseased and old branches and leaves
• We cut down to the healthy flesh (healthy flesh is light in color, sick flesh is dark)
• The bud over which we plan to make a cut should look outside the bush
• We make the cut at an angle at a height of 1 cm from the bud
• We work in the garden only with disinfected, sharp tools.
• We protect our hands while pruning with thick gloves.
• When pruning, we leave only strong, powerful branches.
• We mercilessly remove branches that look inside the bush
• We form the bush so that it has the shape of a dome or bowl
• We cut small bushes to 30 cm in height, large ones to 1 m.

There are three types of rose pruning:

1. light
2. average
3. strong

With light pruning, the branches of the rose bush are shortened by only a third. This pruning is only recommended for some varieties of roses. It can be used for other varieties of rose bushes, but not very often, as it can lead to stretching of branches and a reduction in the number of buds.

Medium pruning means cutting the rose branches in half. Most often it is applied to mature hybrid tea roses.

When heavily pruning, it is customary to cut rose bushes down to 3-4 buds above the ground. This pruning is most often used on young bushes, but it can also be used on old, tired rose bushes.

Grafting roses onto rose hips in spring

Grafting a rose onto a rosehip is a very important manipulation, allowing the rose to become more resistant to frost and less whimsical.

Grafting a rose onto a rosehip involves pinning the scion (rose) to the rootstock (rosehip).

This manipulation can occur in two ways.

Method No. 1

Grafting a rose onto a rose hip - budding

The first method involves the preliminary cultivation of a one or two-year-old rose hip bush (prickly, wrinkled, May or dog rose) and the subsequent pinning of a rose bud to it. This vaccination is carried out before the buds begin to open (late April - early May).

Action algorithm:

• In the fall, we dig up young rose hips and plant them in a pot.
• At the same time, we trim the desired rose cutting.
• We store both sprouts in a cool place (basement).
• 7-10 days before grafting, we begin to actively water the rose hips.
• The day before planting it, we provide it with especially active watering.
• On the day of grafting, we scrape away the soil from the root collar of the rosehip and clean it of dirt.
• We cut off the healthiest bud from the rose along with a 3cm stump.
• Carefully cut the bud from the wood, leaving only the adjacent bark.
• We make a cut in the shape of the letter “T” on the root collar of the rosehip, being careful not to damage the wood.
• Move the edges of the cut aside.
• We insert the bark with the bud into the resulting hole and close the edges of the cut.
• We check that the rose bud is on the outside and that the bark is covered with rosehip bark.
• Carefully secure the edges of the cut with electrical tape or polyethylene.
• We dig in the grafting with soil.
• After a couple of weeks, we dig up the graft and check whether it has taken root.
• If the rose takes root, it will have green, if not, then brown.
• If the result is negative, repeat the procedure slightly below the first vaccination.

Many gardeners do not like this grafting method because of its length - you will have to wait a couple of years for the rose hips to grow, and then wait another while for the buds to appear. Therefore, some rose growers prefer the second, faster method, grafting roses onto rose hips.

Method No. 2

Algorithm of actions:

• We cut a cutting from a rose with two buds.
• In the root part of the rose hip at the top we make two oblique cuts, forming a recess.
• Insert the cutting into the cut.
• We fix the rose cutting to the rosehip with electrical tape or other material.
• We lower the graft into a box with sawdust, moss or pine needles.
• We place the box in a room with a temperature of +10 to +15 degrees.
• After three weeks, we move the box to a room with a temperature of +14 to +19 degrees.
• A month and a half after grafting, we plant the rose hips and roses in open ground, after removing the dressing material.
• We cover the top of the sprout with earth in the shape of a hill and cover it with polyethylene.
• Gradually, as the shoots grow, we rake the soil from the bush on cloudy days or in the evening.
• When 3-4 leaves appear, cut off the top of the shoot, leaving the side shoots untouched.

Every spring is the most crucial period in the life of roses. Breaking the rules spring care behind these beautiful bushes even once, you can completely lose them. That’s why it’s so important to follow all the rules and tips given in the article.

We wish you to enjoy these luxurious flowers and every year acquire more and more interesting and pleasing varieties of them.

Planting roses in spring: Video

Grafting a rose onto a rosehip: Video

Pruning roses in spring: Video

It is difficult to find a person who does not love roses. After all, these flowers can be called royal. Roses are a wonderful decoration for anyone garden plot. However, such plants require careful and constant care. This is the only way to get beautiful flowers emitting the most delicate aromas.

Roses are capricious plants. Therefore, you should treat them with caution. You need to start caring for these plants immediately after winter ends. What does this mean?

Main stages of care

Spring care for roses is not so simple. There are several steps, after completing which you can expect beautiful flowers that are not affected by pests.

Treatment of roses in spring from diseases and pests - the main stage. Don't neglect them.

Of course, the plant should be cared for throughout the year. However, at the end of winter it is required:

1. Carry out proper watering.
2. Apply fertilizer correctly.
3. Form the crown of the bushes and prune.
4. Treat plants against diseases and pests.

Work schedule by month

It is in March that you should begin to care for these plants. At this time, the winter shelter is removed from the bushes, special supports are installed, garters are carried out and, of course, hilling is carried out.

Roses in April needs to be sprayed for prevention purposes. Otherwise, the plant may get sick. It is worth considering that the soil around the bushes is also subject to treatment. During this period, you can also start propagating plants. New roses planted in April will be better accepted.

In May, another preventive spraying should be carried out. At this time, fertilizing is also applied, and bushes are pruned.

In warm latitudes, work should begin at the end of winter. The main thing is that the snow has already melted from the site, and the weather has become drier and warmer. Primary processing of roses should be completed before vegetative growth begins.

How to cover roses

If you live in a cold climate, then it is better to cover your rose bushes for the winter. Otherwise, these delicate plants will die from the cold. Roses are usually covered in November, when the air temperature does not rise above -5 °C.

If you miss this moment, the roses may die. Temperatures below the specified limit are fatal for them. However, you should not cover the flowers even in warm weather. Roses can wilt and die.

After removing dry leaves and faded inflorescences, the plants take cover warm material . As a rule, burlap or spunbond is used for this. After this, a structure is made from wire mesh or plastic.

Its walls should be located 25 centimeters from the bush. The structure is filled with fallen leaves or straw. It is better to wrap it outside with roofing material. You can also use plastic film . The structure should be made 10 centimeters higher than the plant.

How to remove cover

When spring comes, roses must be gradually opened. After the snow melts, the ends should be opened slightly. Roses should be well ventilated. Otherwise, the plants will begin to rot and then rot. At first, roses should be covered at night.

If the temperature is very low, then the plants should be covered during the day. As the temperature rises, the roofing material layer should be gradually removed.

Straw and fallen leaves no need to clean it up right away, since the air temperature is low at night. During the day, plant branches can get burned in the sun. It is best to open bushes in cloudy and windless weather. If this is not possible, then it is worth creating a shadow.

If the plants were covered with agrofilm, then in the spring this material does not need to be removed, since it does not accumulate condensation and allows the roses to breathe. In order for the soil around the bushes to warm up faster, the roses need to be hilled up and the peat layer removed from them. However, do not rush to completely open the root neck of the plant.

How to prune

So, how to care for roses in spring? As many people believe, the main pruning of roses should be done not in the fall, but in the spring. This ensures that the plants will thrive in the winter.

Exists some general rules pruning for both decorative and fruit roses. They should be followed when carrying out this procedure:

There are several key factors to consider when pruning roses. First of all, climate is important. In cold regions, plants do not have time to grow much during the summer. Besides this, important role The variety of roses also plays a role.

Spring care for roses is very important for normal height these plants. During the pruning process, you should follow some guidelines. First of all, you should choose a very sharp tool. Best use pruning shears. So, a few tips:

• The branches should be cut a few millimeters above the bud;
• the cut should be made obliquely, it should be directed in the same direction as the bud;
• if, after cutting the shoot, healthy white wood is not visible, then it should be cut again, this should be done until healthy tissue appears;
• The crown of the bush should be finally formed only after the shoots have grown by 5 centimeters;
• if several shoots have grown from one bud, then one should be removed;
• at the end of pruning, all bushes should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate;
• If there are frosts at night, then the roses need to be covered with film.

Installation of supports

Spring rose care is not just about pruning. It is important to install supports in time. Experts recommend using permanent and strong structures, which allow you to tie up roses without much difficulty.

Every spring you should check their safety. If there are any breakdowns, it is worth repairing them. Otherwise, the damaged support simply will not withstand the weight of the branches. For gartering, use green garden self-fixing wire.

Fertilizing and mulching roses

In order for roses to grow well after winter, they need to be fed. Fertilizers for such plants should contain phosphorus, magnesium, nitrogen and potassium. You can purchase such products at any specialized store.

This doesn't cause much difficulty. The range of such fertilizers is very large and if you cannot choose, then you should pay attention to the components.

Plants can be fed with such formulations several times throughout the year. In spring, this should be done during the period when the active growth phase begins. Fertilizers should also be applied in the summer after the first flowering.

In this case it is necessary distribute evenly on the soil surface 28 grams of the drug. After this, the soil should be processed using a hoe.

Fertilizers should only be applied to moist soil. If the soil remains dry for any reason, it needs to be moistened. Enough water the soil around the bush. You can leave a hose with a small stream near the rose. After a few hours, the soil will be sufficiently moist and fertilizer can be applied.

After pruning has been done and fertilizers have been applied, it is necessary to mulching bushes. To do this, distribute garden compost evenly around the roses. Under each bush you need to place a bucket of this composition. The top of the compost must be sprinkled with a layer of sawdust or wood chips.

It is worth noting that the material used for mulching roses should not cover the base of the trunk. Otherwise, the access of moisture and heat to the plant roots will be limited.

Proper mulching will ensure the safety minerals, heat and moisture in the soil, and protect the root system. This will significantly improve the appearance of the roses.

Pest and disease control

Roses are delicate plants that are often susceptible to all sorts of diseases, as well as insect attacks. Most often, these plants suffer from beetles, aphids, mites, caterpillars, and so on.

After the first buds begin to bloom, you should treat plants from pests and diseases. For this it is better to use special drugs. They can be purchased in specialized stores.

If necessary, the seller will tell you which drug will help protect roses from a particular scourge. For processing, a combination of tools should be used, such as insecticide and fungicide.

This will significantly save money and also protect flowers from black spots, aphids, rust on foliage and powdery mildew. Roses should be treated in dry, windless weather in the evening.

Roses should be sprayed every two weeks from the moment the active growth phase begins. Many experts say that you can get by with two treatments. One should be done in the spring, and the second in the summer after the end of the first flowering.

If you grow thorned roses on your property that bear fruit, then they should not be treated with synthetic pesticides and insecticides. In this case it is better use natural preparations, preferably plant-type fungicides.

Caring for roses after winter is a labor-intensive process that requires patience, as well as certain skills. Despite all the difficulties, many people want to grow these plants on their site. After all, such plants are real decoration, which surrounds itself with a pleasant and delicate aroma.