Basement siding performs protective and decorative functions. It is thicker and therefore more durable and wear-resistant. Among its advantages are affordability and ease of installation.

Peculiarities

The base of the building is subject to increased loads and wear, since it is affected more strongly by mechanical shocks and soil pressure than other parts of the facade. It is susceptible to the influence of ground and above-ground waters, soil heaving, and chemically aggressive elements.

Prevent the impact of the environment on this part façade allows its cladding with materials, which perform protective and decorative functions. It's about about basement siding panels, which are manufactured under pressure by casting from thin metal sheet. Can be used polymer materials as a basis.

Basement siding is thicker and stronger than similar sidings wall panels. In addition, it has different dimensions from its wall counterpart, which makes its installation more convenient. As a rule, the height of the panels for the plinth is equal to the height of the plinth itself, so the material is small rectangles.

Among the advantages of this technology is its simplicity, the ability to perform actions independently in a few days. Compared to other methods of finishing the plinth, this option is the most economical and does not require earthworks, purchase or preparation and subsequent pouring of concrete. The panels themselves are affordable.

Base panels are not afraid of moisture and can withstand temperature changes within the range of -50... +50 degrees. It turns out to be unstable to soil heaving and in most cases does not exert a load on the foundation. If necessary, you can lay a layer of insulation under the siding by installing panels using the ventilated facade method.

Finally, thanks to the variety of panels, it is possible to give the house an original and distinctive appearance. The panels go well with the most common finishing materials and textures.

Species

Depending on the material of manufacture, the following types of material are distinguished.

Vinyl

The base is polyvinyl chloride, which makes the panels light and inexpensive. Among their advantages are moisture resistance and weather resistance. However, vinyl for covering a base may not be a very durable material. It may be damaged under strong mechanical stress. Vinyl siding with the addition of acrylic, which has higher technical and performance characteristics. Vinyl siding is usually used for small wooden houses. It is affordable and suitable for decorating a country house.

Metal

Unlike vinyl, these panels are more durable and impact resistant. They are made of metal plates with anti-corrosion protection. Thanks to this, they are not afraid of moisture and are weather-resistant. Metal siding has a little more weight than vinyl, so in some cases (for example, on old buildings) preliminary strengthening of the foundation is required. Used for finishing private houses, both lightweight (for example, for timber house), and heavier (brick) materials.

Fiber cement

Consisting of fiber cement (usually Portland cement combined with recycled cellulose and additives), which provides maximum strength and weather resistance to the plinth, but is heavier. This, in turn, limits the possibility of using the material - it is not suitable for all types of foundations and not for every soil. For fiber cement siding, you should select powerful stone and concrete bases, prerequisite is the strength and stability of the soil.

Decorative siding design

As already mentioned, in addition to protective function, plinth panels They also perform decorative work. Today manufacturers offer large number various profiles in terms of design, including:

Under the stone

The material imitates the surface of large or smaller natural stone, which gives the object solidity and respectability. As a rule, stones such as pebbles, shell rock, flagstone, and granite are imitated.

Under the brick

Such panels imitate brickwork made of various types bricks Due to the fact that the dimensions of the “bricks” in this “masonry” correspond to the real ones, it is possible to achieve maximum realism of the surfaces. The shade of brick siding can be any - red, brown, yellow, sand; imitation of burnt, clinker, glossy and aged bricks is common.

Under the tree

Simulates wooden surfaces, which are invariably associated with the environmental friendliness of the house and emphasize the status of its owner. Thanks to the variety of options, it is possible to choose a model that replicates the texture and color of a particular type of wood.

Siding that imitates natural surfaces is realistic– it is possible to identify a copy only upon closer examination. Moreover, this material, unlike natural surfaces, is affordable and easy to maintain. It does not require strengthening the foundation due to its low weight and special processing, excavation work, and the purchase of cement mortars.

Calculation of the amount of required materials

In order to understand how much siding is required for the job, you should find the perimeter of the surface to be finished and divide the resulting number by 0.9 (standard panel length). The resulting number is the amount of siding in one row. Next, based on the height of the foundation and taking into account the width of the panels, the number of rows is determined.

Once this figure is known, you can calculate the total number of panels required for the job. To do this, the number of rows is multiplied by the numerical coefficient of siding in one row. For example, if the cladding involves 2 rows, then 2 must be multiplied by the number of panels required to lay out one row.

To decorate the corners, special additional elements and corners are used. Their height is equal to the height of the base panel, so to calculate the required quantity, you should multiply the number of rows of panels by the number of corners in the house. For example, if the panels are laid in 2 rows on a house in a rectangular shape, then 2 should be multiplied by 4. For the specified object, 8 corners should be purchased.

When calculating the number of starting planks, you should keep in mind that one plank should be enough for 2 panels, so the number of panels in a row is divided in half. In the same way, you can find out the number of finishing strips.

When covering the plinth, a J-profile may also be required, which is used when designing internal corners, as well as in case of refusal of the starting strip on the facade, standing on uneven surface Houses. In this case, you have to cut the siding, so it is left without fixing hooks. Fixation is carried out by inserting the panels into a pre-cut and secured J-profile. The required number of these profiles can be calculated taking into account the length of the profile (usually 3.66 m) and the length of the sections on the facade that are sheathed with the J-profile.

To determine the number of flashings, you should know the standard length of flashings (in most cases - 2 m) and the perimeter of the building. It is important to remember that the ebb tides are fixed with an overlap, so the useful length of each is not 2 m, but 195 cm.

How to install?

At the first stage, the working base should be prepared. If the work is done with your own hands, then you should clean the surface, strengthen all loose and collapsed elements, and seal large seams. Minor defects may not be eliminated; the permissible height difference is no more than 2 cm.

All traces of communication should be removed from the surface. If insulation is to be carried out, then for the glue to adhere it must be removed from the base old paint(if available) and treat the surface with two layers of deep penetration primer.

Next, sheathing is installed around the perimeter of the entire basement part of the building. For the plinth it should be metal frame, which, compared to wood, has a greater bearing capacity and durability. The frame is assembled from profiles with high-quality anti-corrosion treatment. The sheathing pitch is left 0.4 or 0.9 m, the distance from the bottom of the building is 15 cm. If there is concrete blind area, the installation of the starting bar can be done immediately from it.

The distance of the sheathing from the wall is determined by whether insulation will be installed under the panels. If not, then the profile thickness is sufficient. If simultaneous thermal insulation of the base is implied, then its height (distance from the wall) is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

The sheathing profile is secured using brackets. A paronite gasket is placed between the latter and the wall, which will prevent the formation of air voids at these points, which will turn into “cold bridges” in the future.

The installation of the first panels is carried out on the starting strip, so the quality of the entire cladding depends on its evenness. You should carefully measure the horizontal, checking the accuracy and evenness several times. The starting bar is fixed with self-tapping screws, after which you can begin installing the side elements.

The first panel begins to be laid from the corner, hooked onto the starting strip with hooks and pushed into the groove of the corner. After this, the rest of the first row of siding is attached to the starting strip. After installing every 3 panels, it is recommended to measure the level; deviations are allowed no more than 2 mm. The second row is attached to the material of the first row; fixation is carried out in the grooves of the previous row, as well as on self-tapping screws.

Before installing the last row, a finishing strip is attached into which the upper part panels of the last row.

If thermal insulation of the base is provided, then step by step instructions installation looks like this:

1. After installing the frame, a layer of insulation should be laid between its elements. Typically, mineral wool or polystyrene foam sheets are used, as well as sprayed polyurethane foam. Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are glued to the surface, and it is important to achieve the tightest possible fit of the material to the walls, including at points near the frame profiles.
2. Installation of a waterproof film, or better yet, a diffuse membrane. It is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, all joints are taped.
3. The glued insulation should be further strengthened, for which it, together with the membrane, is “placed” on self-tapping screws. For 1 sq. m, 3-4 self-tapping screws are enough, one of which must be located in the center.
4. The final stage is the installation of base panels using the technology described above, while an air gap of 3-5 cm should remain between the insulation layer and the finish.

When installed on screw piles backfilling is done first(elimination of space between the surface of the earth and the lower part of the house). Usually this part is insulated, waterproofed and upholstered wooden planks. After this, the surface is treated with antiseptics, then it can be sheathed with siding. If the surface of the boards is smooth, the panels can be attached directly to them without lathing. If not, then a sheathing is made on which the panels are attached.

Siding for finishing the plinth will meet the declared characteristics only if original products from a reputable brand are purchased. In this regard, before purchasing, you should always make sure that the products have certificates of conformity.

Basement siding - modern material, which makes it possible to add attractiveness to the base of the building and protect it from environmental factors: moisture, dust, sharp changes temperature. This facing material is steadily gaining popularity due to its relatively low cost, durability, reliability and ease of installation. You can cover the foundation yourself, the main thing is to correctly complete all the steps listed below.

Size and design selection

The sizes of basement siding are varied, but the most popular are panels 1-1.2 m long and 0.42-0.47 m wide. Components of these sizes are optimal in price and are convenient to install. For non-standard situations, panels can be made to order. The same applies to design; to order they make an imitation of any facing material for the foundation, be it wood, stone or brick. As you can see from the photo, a properly selected siding design allows you to give a well-groomed and respectable appearance to the building.

Surface preparation

The service life of basement siding largely depends on how well the surface was prepared. Perfect smooth walls are rare, so it is necessary to level the surface using cement mortar. The sheathing is already installed on the leveled wall - load-bearing structure, on which the panels are fastened.

The foundation lathing can be done using different materials, the main ones being: galvanized metal profile and wooden beams. Experts recommend not saving on lathing and giving preference metal profile, since the tree is susceptible to rotting. If the use of beams is unavoidable, they should be treated with fire retardants - this will extend the life of the tree.

After the sheathing is ready, you can begin to attach the siding, however, if the building is located in an area with a harsh climate or there is a close proximity groundwater, it is advisable to thermally insulate and waterproof the foundation. Can be used for waterproofing plastic film or water-repellent mastic, and for thermal insulation - polystyrene foam, mineral wool and insulation from natural materials(linen, jute).

Fastening process

Installing basement siding on a foundation is quite simple, but requires basic knowledge and accuracy. Do not start installing panels without reading the instructions. Installation features depend on the type of siding, but several basic rules can be distinguished:

• It is preferable to cladding the foundation in the warm season. If outside temperature below zero, the material should be warmed indoors before fastening;

• It must be taken into account that the panels tend to expand under the influence of heat, and when installed in the cold season, leave a gap slightly larger than usual: 10 mm versus the standard 6-9 mm;
• Siding should be installed with bottom row. Installation from the top row is only possible if this recommendation is included in the instructions;

• The panels should be fastened exclusively using galvanized fasteners.

The installation process is carried out in several stages:

• The base panel is mounted in the starting guides from top to bottom;
• The panel pattern is combined;
• We attach the siding to the sheathing using screws or nails. Nails are driven in only in the middle of the mounting hole - to prevent deformation when heated;
• Each subsequent panel is attached to the grooves of the previous one, and is secured to the starting profile.

To get a complete picture of the installation process, we suggest you watch the video.

After the foundation is lined, all that remains is to finish the corners using façade corners and decorate the openings with facing strips. The final result of the work is shown in the photo.

In conclusion, a few words about caring for a foundation covered with basement siding. Cleaning should be done strictly from bottom to top using a soft brush and gentle detergents. It is very convenient to use household cleaners and car brushes with a long handle. In case of soot, you can use a solution from washing powder and any surface cleaner. Compliance with simple rules will extend the service life of the cladding and keep the appearance of the facade attractive for a long time.

The basement of the house, as well as its walls, needs decorative finishing so that the entire structure looks holistic, beautiful and harmonious. Beyond beauty finishing material must protect this part of the structure from the destructive effects of moisture and precipitation. Basement siding copes with this task perfectly. It is not only beautiful and durable, but also provides reliable protection for home structures. There are several types of this material, each of which has its own characteristics. In our article we will not only look at the properties and varieties of this product, but also describe in detail how to install basement siding with your own hands. To make it easier for you to understand the process, a visual video instruction is presented at the end of the article.

Properties and characteristics of the material

Basement siding is special panels, which are made by casting or pressing. Externally, this material can very accurately imitate a stone surface, wood, brick and other materials. For the manufacture of these products, different raw materials can be used, but there are also common components that can improve the quality of the product, its durability and strength. Among these components are:

• titanium dioxide to maintain color brightness and protect against fading;
• modifiers to increase the strength of the product;
• plasticizers increase the elasticity of the material;
• high quality resins.

Important: thanks to this composition and special manufacturing technology, basement siding panels do not require additional processing before installation and special care throughout the entire service life.

U different manufacturers Dimensions of this product may vary. Basement siding, a photo of which can be found on the Internet, has the following characteristics:

1. High moisture resistance, resistance to chemical and mechanical stress.
2. Siding for the facade and plinth is resistant to sunlight and does not fade over time.
3. This finishing of the foundations and walls of houses has a wide range of operating temperatures. Depending on the material from which the panel is made, it can range from -50°С...+50°С and reach up to +80°С.
4. Due to its high strength and elasticity, the material does not collapse under direct mechanical impact.

1. Installed siding can last up to half a century.
2. Installing basement siding is simple and quick due to the light weight of the material, convenient dimensions, the presence of special locks, holes for fasteners and additional elements.
3. You can cover your brick, concrete, wooden or frame house with this material.
4. Finishing a house with basement siding can be done with your own hands. You do not need special skills or special construction equipment to work. The video instructions at the end of the article will help you understand the installation process.
5. Products may have different surface textures and colors. For example, brick basement siding can be light beige, brown, red, etc.

In addition to the panels themselves, do-it-yourself installation of basement siding is carried out using the following additional elements:

• starting bar– the installation of panels begins with this element;
• end profiles are needed to frame the trim around the edges;
• a connecting profile is needed to join two products;
• finishing profiles are needed to frame the last panels;
• External and internal corner elements are used at the corners of the plinth.

Classification

• metal panels;
• vinyl products;
• acrylic material;
• fiber cement panels.

It is worth choosing one or another type of siding taking into account its advantages and disadvantages.

Vinyl and acrylic panels

Basement vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride. The advantages of this material include the following:

1. The material is not subject to corrosion and rot. It is not spoiled by insects and microorganisms.
2. The product can be used in a wide temperature range, and installation can be performed in any season.
3. The service life of this product is 30 years.
4. This is an environmentally friendly material.
5. The product does not support combustion.
6. Reviews say that installing such siding is easy and quick due to its lightness and flexibility.
7. The material does not crack, and small dents are restored on their own.
8. If you find out how much this product costs, you will understand that its price is the most reasonable among all types of siding. You can buy one panel 3.6 m long for about 1.9 USD.

The main disadvantages of the material are as follows:

1. When exposed to temperatures above 500 degrees, vinyl begins to melt.
2. When temperature changes, the product is subject to deformation expansion and contraction. This must be taken into account during installation.
3. Installation at temperatures below -10°C must be carried out very carefully due to the risk of cracking of the material.

For making acrylic siding Polymers are also used, so the main characteristics of these products are similar. Small differences explained different technologies production. So, acrylic base siding is characterized by the following qualities:

• the material can withstand temperatures up to +80°C;
• the product is not subject to temperature deformation;
• high chemical resistance;
• In comparison with vinyl panels, acrylic elements are more expensive and cost 2.9 USD.

Hardware

Metal panels are made from stamped galvanized steel. Its surface is protected special composition, primer, polymer layer on the front side and painting on the back.

Sheathing the base with metal panels is beneficial for the following reasons:

1. They are very strong and durable and can last more than 50 years.
2. The product is reliably protected from corrosion and rot.
3. It does not burn and is an environmentally friendly material.
4. The panels are not subject to temperature deformation.
5. They can be installed at any time of the year.

Before finishing the base metal siding, it is worth knowing its disadvantages:

1. The high price of the material is its main drawback.
2. If damaged polymer coating, then over time traces of corrosion may appear in this place.
3. The products are quite heavy, which makes them difficult to install.

Fiber cement siding

Such elements are produced by pressing from a mixture of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing cellulose fibers. Finish the base fiber cement siding beneficial due to its advantages:

• high strength and flexibility;
• environmental friendliness of the material;
• increased moisture resistance and water resistance;
• the product is resistant to any adverse environmental factors;
• the material is not subject to combustion;
• The product can easily withstand extreme temperatures and sudden changes.

However, a plinth finished with this material will have the following disadvantages:

• during the installation process it will not be possible to completely hide the seams between the finishing elements;
• if you decide to replace one panel to repair the base, it will be very difficult to remove one element from the row;
• Due to the increased fragility of the material, its transportation is difficult.

Installation of basement siding

The initial stage of installation involves calculating required quantity materials. To do this, you need to measure the perimeter of the house and the height of the basement. The starting strip and finishing element are purchased exactly along the perimeter of the house. To determine the number of panels, you need to find the surface area of ​​the plinth by multiplying the perimeter by the height. In this case, it is worth making a reserve of 10% for adjusting and trimming the panels.

In addition to purchasing materials, at this stage it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls. To do this, the base of the house must be cleaned of dust and dirt, as well as all protruding elements. Before covering the wooden base and frame house All wood structures are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, and the cracks are carefully sealed.

Important: to ensure ventilation of the wall surface and protection from condensation, it is advisable to attach the finishing material to a special sheathing. In this case, you can additionally insulate the structure by laying thermal insulation material between the frame of the sheathing.

Manufacturing of sheathing

Before attaching basement siding to this part of the house, it is necessary to make a sheathing of steel profiles for gypsum plasterboard or timber. When using wooden sheathing All wood frame elements should also be subjected to protective treatment.

It is better to fasten the sheathing using special brackets. When installing the frame, adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Sheathing elements must be installed horizontally along the lower and upper parts of the base, in the corners of the house, around windows or vents, as well as with a certain step in the vertical direction.
2. The installation step of the vertical guides of the frame is 50-60 cm. But when using insulation, this step is determined by the width of the slabs of heat-insulating material.
3. The correct installation of the sheathing is checked with a level.
4. For wooden frame It is better to use timber with a moisture content of no more than 15%. After protective treatment, the product should dry well.

Installation of panels

First, the starting bar is attached to the lower horizontal guide of the frame. It should go along the perimeter of the building and be leveled in a strictly horizontal position. To fix the strip, we use self-tapping screws, which we screw into the central part of the oblong mounting hole. To ensure the possibility of thermal expansion of the material, the fasteners should not be screwed in too tightly; it is better to leave a gap of 1 mm between the element and the head of the fastener.

Attention: if the bottom line of the plinth is uneven, then the starting strip is not used. The panels are cut during installation and attached directly to the sheathing. Subsequently, the lower edge is covered with a special camouflage profile.

After installation starting profile corner elements are attached. Next, you can begin installing the panels themselves. Installation instructions for basement siding:

1. First, the first element to be mounted is attached to the starting rail. It slides into the groove corner profile so that the panel does not reach the inside of the corner by 8-10 mm. After this, the panel is checked for horizontalness and fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
2. Installation of subsequent panels is carried out similarly.
3. Before installing the last row, the finishing strip is attached.
4. If there are windows or vents on the base, then end strips are installed around them, and corner elements are installed at the corners of the slopes.
5. The ebb must be attached on top of the base.

Installation of basement siding video:

Instructions for installing façade plinth panels for the plinth and facade of the house

Basic instructions:

Installation is always done from left to right. When moving to siding another wall, move from the lowest point of the structure.

Be sure to take into account changes in panel size due to temperature changes. Position the siding to compensate for these deformations as much as possible. Maintain the necessary expansion joints, do not press on the pins of the previous row when laying the siding to avoid warping. We recommend storing panels according to the arrows on the packaging. Please note that if installation is planned to be carried out at low temperatures, it is better to store the siding in warm room, because The flexibility of the material increases.
The shades of panels from different batches may differ, so when finishing one wall, experts do not recommend mixing different batches. The pigment number of each batch is indicated on the packaging.

Siding should be used for finishing vertical surfaces only; it can also be used for mansard roofs with a slope of 9/12 or more. The warranty does not cover floor panels or other types of roofs.
Before starting work, ensure that the wall surface is flat, level and nailable. Installation on plywood or a wall with a thickness of 11 mm, oriented structure is recommended. If shingles are used, it is necessary to fill all available space and ensure a smooth surface.
Make sure that nails or other fasteners penetrated the surface at least 11 mm. Please note that the size fastening elements may be different.

For insulation, it is necessary to use “breathable” materials of a suitable color, and not foil ones. In the latter case, the warranty will be void.
When fastening the panel with nails, it is necessary to drill an inconspicuous hole on its front side. larger diameter, than the rod of the fastening element - this is necessary to ensure against warping during thermal deformations of the panel. The heads of nails or screws can be coated with paint.

It is recommended to fasten the siding at the level of the installer's waist, since this is how a person sees the back side of the panel. When attaching siding, you do not need to ensure that the panel remains stationary; be sure to place the fasteners in the center of the hole, while lightly pressing the panel. It is not recommended to install more than two corners at a time in order to leave the possibility of subsequent adjustment and alignment of the panels.

1. Installation of sheathing

Secure the sheathing to the wall surface. The lathing can be made of wood (impregnated with a special fire-resistant compound) or metal.
In warm climates where the ground does not freeze, you can anchor the sheathing into the ground.
In cold climates where the ground freezes, attach the sheathing to the house by hanging it at least 6 inches above ground level. The sheathing made in this way should be supported on the ground using pegs. The resulting space can be filled with soil during landscaping to give the house an aesthetically finished appearance.
Vertical sheathing elements should be spaced at intervals of no more than 91 cm, while the horizontal crossbars should be connected flush for installation of the panels.
To determine the position of the horizontal sheathing, measure 46 cm from the bottom of the house wall. In this case, the top row should fall under the top edge of the panel, just in the part where the nail holes are located. The top edge can be finished with an inverted unequal channel (J-profile) or finishing strip. If the openings are more than 91 cm, then additional strapping is required for every 46 cm.

2. Setting the starting profile.

Set the starting profile along the pre-drawn chalk line. The profile should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the building, and an allowance for the width of the corner panel should also be taken into account. The starting profile is fastened with nails every 30 cm. The starting profile is installed evenly and strictly horizontally.
If necessary, trim the bottom row panels to the required height circular saw, using a fine-toothed blade set in the opposite direction. When cutting into the face of a panel, reverse the saw to minimize chipping.
If trimming of the lower parts of the panels is necessary, then the starting profile is not used. In this case, the panels are secured with nails through the front surface (driving at least 5 nails into 1 panel) in inconspicuous places, for example along the seam line. Driving nails through the face requires pre-drilling holes for the fasteners.

Cutting panels

Determine the number of panels needed to cover the wall. To do this, divide the total length of the wall in centimeters (minus the width of the corner pieces used) by 112 cm. The final panel should not be shorter than 30 cm. You may have to adjust the size of the first panels to accommodate the final panel. The panel can be cut in 20 cm steps anywhere on the panel, without allowing the seams to overlap, so that the mounted structure looks as natural as possible. Do not cut more than one end piece at a time, as adjustments may be required in subsequent rows.

3. Installation of the first panel.

Working from left to right, install the first corner of the brick or stone panel with the release approximately 3mm below the bottom edge of the starting profile. Slide the first panel to the left, resting it flush against the corner. Carefully install the first panel onto the support strip with the correct entry of the mounting pins, without reducing the expansion joints. Push the panel to the left until it stops 2 mm before the corner.
When installing panels brickwork align the horizontal line mortar joint with an angle.
Note. Stone-look panels have a random pattern; their mortar joints should not coincide with the corner.
Apply sealant before aligning the panel to the corner.

4. Installation of the second row.

Drive the nails evenly through the backing, making sure the nail heads just lightly touch the panel. Place the next panel into the starting profile and move it towards the first panel. Install the following rows. To receive natural look brick or stone masonry, offset each subsequent row by 20 cm.
Do not push panels from top to bottom on top of each other under any circumstances. Lower the panel smoothly down so that the panels are fastened naturally.
Installation can be made easier by slightly lifting right side panels. Check the fastening of all locking pins.
When adjusting cut parts of panels between windows or around openings, trimming is necessary for an allowance of 3 mm when installing around panels at low temperatures. The same clearance may be required when adjusting panels at vault toes, at roof corners, around junctions, and in other areas where sufficient panel movement is not possible.
Basement siding is equipped with posts on the back panels in the form of mounting pins. When installing a new row of panels, it is not recommended to press the panels by these posts; the stops serve as protection against warping during temperature fluctuations. A minimum of five fasteners must be installed on one panel, which should only lightly touch the surface of the panel to provide the necessary freedom. Install fasteners flush with the panel. Corrosion-resistant fasteners should be secured into a rigid substrate with a minimum thickness of 11 mm (7/16 inch).

5. Installation of internal corners.

Basement siding J-strips can be used to trim interior corners, or panels can be marked and cut to fit at a corner. It is recommended to level the corner before installing the panels with vinyl plastic or aluminum tape.
When finishing the wall, you may need to drive nails through the face. When driving nails through the face, drill a hole in an inconspicuous place, such as a mortar joint. This hole should be larger in diameter than the shank of the nail or screw to allow for thermal deformation, but smaller than the diameter of the head.
Remember to consider that panels will contract or expand by up to 6 mm (1/4 inch) as temperatures fluctuate. The average distance between panel tile joints is 13 mm (1/2 inch).

At a temperature of – 1 C°, leave a gap of 16 mm between the panels to protect against warping.
At a temperature of + 16 C° you can leave a gap of up to 13 mm.
At a temperature of + 32 C° the gap is up to 10 mm.

In this article we will look at how to install plinth panels with your own hands.

Why is this necessary?

1. Firstly, to protect the facade from excessive humidity and temperature changes.
2. Secondly, to make the appearance of the building more attractive.

The ability to do all the work yourself will significantly save the family budget.

It would be fair to pay a little attention to the reasons for choosing siding as a basement finish:

Advantages

• Good water-repellent properties. This is the primary requirement for any.
• Beautiful appearance, imitating a natural, more expensive coating.

• Affordable price. In combination with self-installation you can save a lot.
• Simplicity installation work. Since installing plinth panels is not difficult, you can do without hired specialists.
• Ease of care. It is enough to wash the surface with water from a hose to restore it to its former aesthetics.
• Strength and durability.
• Can be used in combination with insulation.

Siding installation rules

Before proceeding directly with the installation, you should familiarize yourself with the basic postulates of finishing work:

1. The sections are installed from left to right.
2. It must be taken into account that when the temperature changes, the linear dimensions of the panels also change.

To compensate for such deformations, appropriate gaps should be left between finishing products:

• 1 degree Celsius – 15 mm;
• 16 degrees Celsius – 12 mm;
• 32 degrees Celsius – 10 mm.

Advice: if you need to install siding in the cold season, try to keep the panels in a warm room before work. This will significantly increase the flexibility of the material.

1. Before starting work, check the evenness of the walls with a level. If irregularities are detected, they must be eliminated.

Tip: if leveling the wall is problematic, then you can install the sheathing in increments of 25 cm. This design will hide all surface defects.

1. Nails or screws must enter the surface to be treated at a distance of at least one centimeter.

1. Materials that can “breathe” are used for insulation. Foil should be excluded.
2. Due to the effect of thermal expansion, a gap of about a millimeter must be left between the panel and the cap of the fixing element.

1. There is no need to install more than two corners at a time, because this will cause you to lose the opportunity for further adjustment and alignment of the finish.

Finishing work

Since the cost of installing plinth panels is quite high, it is much more profitable to do all the work yourself. To understand the essence of the process and become familiar with its intricacies, we will analyze it step by step ().

Lathing

The instructions for installing plinth panels begin with installing the sheathing, which can be made of either wooden slats, and from metal profiles.

Highlights:

• In warm climates, the structure is fixed directly into the ground. In cold weather - at a height of 15 cm from the freezing zone.
• Vertical slats or profiles are located at a distance from each other not exceeding 91 cm.
• Insulation is placed in the spaces between the guides. For this purpose, you can use polystyrene foam, mineral wool or extruded polyurethane.

Start profile

• Using a cord with special paint or chalk applied to it, we beat off a straight line.
• At a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the building, we mount the product according to the applied markings, screwing it with self-tapping screws every 30 cm. We check its horizontalness with a spirit level.

If cladding panels need trimming, then the starting profile is not installed, and the planks themselves are then fixed with self-tapping screws through the front side.

First panel

• We install the corner part of the siding.
• We apply sealant to its edges.

• We place the first section 3 mm below the edge of the starting profile.
• Next we move it, inserting it into corner element with preservation expansion joints.
• We fix them with self-tapping screws so that their heads barely touch the surface.

Next row

We enter the next product through the starting profile and move it to the first section. To get more natural imitation stone or brickwork, we shift each subsequent row 20 cm to the side.

J-profiles

J-profile photo

This product got its name, as you can judge from the image, because of its shape. Used for better fitting of finishing elements. They come with a 19 mm groove, which are better suited for sections imitating brick, and a 28 mm groove, these are more effective when installing “stone” panels.

The color of such fasteners is usually a shade of mortar. It is recommended to have them in sufficient quantities before starting work.

Possible problems

During installation, the following difficulties may arise:

1. The sections do not fit well on the sides, which makes it impossible to lock them properly. This may be due to the unevenness of the wall. It is necessary to check all previous panels with a spirit level and, if necessary, level the sheathing.
2. Products warp or do not fit tightly to the wall. The reason for such situations may be the lack of gaps between the heads of the screws and the surface of the siding. Review all fasteners and correct any errors.

Conclusion

A protected base will last many times longer, and a beautiful one will also be pleasing to the eye. Siding copes with these tasks perfectly, being beautiful, practical and inexpensive material. Separately, it is worth noting the ease of installation work ().

High-quality lathing and proper fixation of the starting profile is a big part of the matter. When installing the panels themselves, only accuracy and attentiveness are important. It is also necessary to remember about the thermal expansion of products, to compensate for which it is necessary to have expansion joints between sections and sufficient gaps between the screw heads and the finishing surface.

The video in this article will provide you with additional information on this topic.

Happy installation!