Today in repair and finishing works Drywall and structures made from it are often used, since this material has a number of advantages over others.

Installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands is easy, but it requires accurate calculations and compliance with the rules.

There are two methods of laying plasterboard sheets - framed and frameless.

The latter involves gluing sheets onto a smooth surface using gypsum glue. This is how the walls are leveled.

Wall cladding frameless way

The frame method is the creation of a base from profiles, which is then sheathed with plasterboard sheets.

There are many options for connecting parts, but it is best to use a cutter. A cutter pliers is a device that allows you to special labor create notches.

Before starting work, correctly calculate the number and type of components.

Plasterboard sheets are classified by purpose and thickness. The same applies to the metal profile - it is available in four versions:

• ceiling (PP or CD);
• ceiling guide (PNP or UD);
• rackmount (PS or CW);
• guide (PN or UW).

The first symbol in the designation corresponds to the profile section, the second indicates the area of ​​application: type W is used when finishing walls, and type D is used when working with ceilings.

Installation volumetric design for subsequent covering

Preliminary work

First, carefully examine the wall or ceiling on which the profile is to be mounted. Determine what material it is made of, what is the microclimate in the room.

Based on your observations, select the type of drywall and fasteners.

Suitable for rooms with a normal environment standard sheets. For the bathroom, kitchen or basement, choose one with moisture-resistant properties. When arranging technical or garage premises, warehouses, stokers, and places where high-temperature equipment is located, use fire-resistant sheets.

When installing ceilings, determine the height to which the surface will fall and select hangers accordingly.

Types of frame elements for gypsum board

In accordance with the fittings from which the walls are made, dowels and screws for metal and wood are used different sizes. The thicker and more difficult wall, the larger the size of the driven dowel or screwed screw.

Selection of tools

When installing a profile use:

• drill or hammer drill;
• metal scissors, hammer;
• different types of levels or plumb line;
• painting knife and thread, tape measure, pencil;
• screwdriver or cutter;
• square or crossbar;
• sealing tape;
• dowel-nails and anchor-wedges;
• suspensions, profiles, their connectors;
• self-tapping screws

The correct installation of guide profiles is checked using a building level of one type or another.

To ensure that the frame forms a single whole, self-tapping screws are used to connect the profiles. But now everything is much simpler - most builders have begun to use a cutter. It is easy to work with, no special skills are required. Cutter pliers help you effortlessly create a frame for drywall. In appearance, this tool resembles pliers.

Types of plasterboard sheets

Profile installation steps

Work to prepare a strong and durable base for drywall:

• Level and plaster the floor, adjacent walls or ceiling;
• Make markings for the frame on the floor, wall or ceiling. The thickness of the plasterboard sheet, trim and putty is added to the marks. At this stage, a laser or water level will be useful;
• Attach the profiles to the ceiling or walls, not forgetting to apply sealing tape. If you are working on installing a wall, then first install UW profiles on the floor and ceiling, using dowels and screws in half-meter increments.
• Along the edges of the guides and where door or window openings are planned, rack elements (CW) are placed facing the middle. Metal screws are used for this.

If you have a cutter at hand, follow these steps to connect the profile:

1. correctly align the two profiles being connected relative to each other;
2. move the handles of the device apart;
3. insert the work element onto both sides of the parts;
4. bring the handles together in one motion. You will hear a kind of click, which will indicate that the profiles are connected;
5. spread the handles and carefully pull out the device.

Cutter

In practice, it turns out that this type of connection is not inferior to screws in strength and durability.

Another advantage of working with a cutter is that the self-tapping caps do not interfere with the tight fit of the drywall sheets to the installed frames and do not leave noticeable recesses on the outside. After all, there are no screws or screws there.

Choose a reinforced, that is, universal cutter for work. It fits all profile sizes. But if you plan to work only on the ceiling, you can purchase an inexpensive cutter designed for ceiling work.

So, first, the profiles are attached to the lower guides, then they are set vertically and attached to the upper guides. It is very important to leave space for covering the structure with plasterboard strips.

• Rack profiles are placed vertically along the entire length of the structure. To do this, first make an indent of 55 cm from the adjacent wall, then place the first profile, and the following after it in increments of 60 cm;
• Designate openings for windows and doors using guide profiles. The result is a frame of the desired shape.

Openings for doors and windows in the structure

At this stage, the installation of the profile is completed. Double-check everything carefully, because the profile for drywall is the load-bearing element of the system!

At each stage of work, different devices are used, they allow you to make the work process as convenient as possible.

Video advice from experts:

If you get down to business seriously and decisively, prepare in advance, find out the necessary information and nuances, you will be able to avoid the most common mistakes when installing a profile and in the end get a high-quality and durable result.

Plasterboard structures in the nursery

So, the article describes initial stages works on the creation of plasterboard structures. The surface of the plasterboard is smooth, so immediately after covering they begin cladding and the most creative type of work - painting, wallpapering or other finishing.

Due to its versatility, the frame method of fastening drywall has become widespread.

It has a number of obvious advantages:

• Metal profiles with fastening systems make it easy and quick to install a drywall frame on any surface. (See also article.)
• The frames are resistant to pests, do not rot and are not deformed by changes in humidity and temperature, and have a long service life.
• The frame allows you to get additional space in which you can hide the distribution of heating and water supply pipes, electrical wiring and other communications.
• Additional space can be used for laying insulation and sound insulation.
• It also allows you to hide all defects in walls and ceilings. The result is a perfectly flat surface.

In this article we will not focus on how to properly install drywall on a paving frame. The use of wood for these purposes is in most cases unjustified.

Types of profiles and types of fastener designs

The following types of profiles are used for installation:

• PN guide with standard sizes 28x27, 50x40, 75x40 and 100x40.
• Rack-mount PS with standard sizes 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
• Ceiling PP 60x27.
• PU profile 31x31.

There are several types of structures.

Let's look at them in more detail:

• Type C625, where guides PN 75x40 or PN 100x40 are used as the basis of the frame. Paired with them, rack-mount PS 75x50 or PS 100x50 are installed. This type of construction is intended for single-layer cladding.
• In the design of type C626, guides PN 50x40, PN 75x40 or PN 100x40 can be used. Together with them, PS 50x50, PS 75x50 and PS 100x50 are attached. This design is used for multi-layer sheet cladding.
• Design C623, ceiling-mounted PP 60x27 is used as a rack, which is mounted in conjunction with a guide PN 28x27.

Sequence of work

Marking

First of all, markings are made to determine the exact position of all structural elements.

The photo shows the markings of the guides

• A parallel line is drawn on the floor - this is the boundary indicating the front plane of the wall.
• The amount of indentation is the sum of the width of the space between the wall and the profile where communications will be located + the thickness of the guide profile + the thickness of the drywall.
• The amount of indentation is also affected by the unevenness of the wall. It is important to achieve a minimum distance, as this affects the volume of living space.

Space between frame and wall

• After the line defining the front side of the drywall has been drawn, it is necessary to mark the line for the front side of the frame. It is drawn parallel to the first line, deep into the frame at a distance equal to the thickness of the sheet.
• It is necessary to project a line indicating the front side of the structure onto the ceiling. To do this, you can use a plumb line, which is installed exactly above the line in several places and mark control points on the ceiling.
• By connecting these points with a straight line, we obtain the upper border of the sheathing.

Installation of guides

Important! It is recommended to fasten the guide hangers to the floor, ceiling and enclosing structures through a sealing gasket in the form of a tape. Rack-mounted ones that are adjacent to the walls also need to be secured using sealing gaskets. For these purposes, a special tape is made from foam material.
In the C625 and C626 fastening systems, the dowels for fastening must be in increments not exceeding 100 cm. Each profile must have at least three fastening points.

Marking and installation of hangers

When the guides are installed and secured, proceed to the installation of hangers, which are designed to fix the slats.

• Installation locations for PS rack profiles are preliminarily determined and marked. When marking, it is important that the distance between the centers of the profiles is equal to the width of the plasterboard panel.
• Direct hangers are also fastened using dowel nails. The mounting points for the hangers are located along the line along the rack profile. The distance between them should not exceed 1.5 m. You should not save on this, the price of fasteners is not so high, it will pay off in reliability and long service life.
• If there are no direct hangers, you can make them yourself from a PP ceiling profile. To do this, calculate the length of the suspension, which is added up as twice the distance from the wall to the plane of the sheathing + the width of the profile. When the length is determined, the measured part is cut off.
• On the resulting segment, from both ends, a distance corresponding to the distance from the wall to the plane of the sheathing is laid off, and an incision is made into the side walls. As a result, we get an analogue of a standard suspension, made by ourselves.

Advice! If you need to increase rigidity, instead of direct suspension for fastening, it is better to use the so-called “boot”.

• When the lower and upper guides are installed, rack profiles are inserted into them with the necessary steps.
• If the wall surface is planned to be tiled in the future, rack-mount substations should be installed in increments not exceeding 40 cm.

• Using a level or plumb line, they are set strictly vertically. After this, they are attached to the guides using self-tapping screws with a press washer. Self-tapping screws 10-15 mm long with or without a drill are suitable for these purposes.
• The final fixation of the PS to direct hangers is carried out; for this purpose, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used. Parts of the suspensions protruding beyond the front plane of the frame are bent to the sides.

When you start renovating a house, you may be installing profiles for plasterboard on the walls. Of course there are various options execution of the frame for gypsum plasterboard, but it is the metal profiles, correctly mounted into a single structure, that provide a strong and lightweight foundation for future walls.

Using metal profiles for drywall is one of the most reliable options for installing drywall.

The option of such a base has become much more preferable in the modern concept of repairs, because such a material has many advantages when compared with traditional wood. But installing a profile for drywall requires compliance with technology and correct selection materials, otherwise such a wall will not last long. What you need to know about installation work Oh?

Required set of materials and tools

Installing profiles under drywall requires a minimum of tools:

• Measuring: building level, tape measure, if necessary - a plumb line.
• For cutting metal: grinder, metal scissors (alternatively, a hacksaw).
• Power tools: hammer drill, screwdriver (drill).
• Fasteners: straight hangers, dowel-nails, press washers, fleas.

Direct hangers are a strip of metal with perforations, which is designed to rigidly fasten the structure to the walls.

Dowel-nails are plastic dowels with screws, which instead of a gimlet at the end have a point like a nail.

The press washer is a self-tapping screw with a wide head and a gimlet. Used in various metal connections.

“Fleas” (“bugs”) are small self-tapping screws with a gimlet, used to connect straight hangers with frame racks.

Briefly about profile types

The entire frame is assembled from two types of profiles.

CD is a rail that is used for the main posts and jumpers of the frame. It is made in the form of a gutter with curved edges and has stiffening ribs along its entire length. For this type of work, take a size of 60x27 millimeters, where this is, respectively, the width and height of the shelf.

UD is the basis of the entire structure, or guide. Mounted on the surface of the floor and ceiling. Made in the shape of the letter “P” without stiffeners or bends. Size: width – 28 mm, height – 27 mm.

Both types of this element are coated with a protective zinc coating to prevent corrosion.

This is the minimum set of what is needed for installation work.

Installation of a profile for plasterboard

Some technologies during installation work may differ from one craftsman to another in some small details. But the main process is the same: attaching the guides and assembling the entire structure. So, how is a profile installed under plasterboard on walls?

Scoring and marking

All construction always begins with marking and drawing up an installation plan. It's only in TV shows that they show perfect finishing. smooth surfaces, in reality, everything is not so and the walls, as a rule, have unevenness.

The main stage of frame installation is performing calculations and purchasing the necessary tools.

• After examining the wall, use a building level to establish the curvature of the walls and find the most protruding parts of the surface. Further marking will be guided by them.
• A mark is made along the wall on the floor where the structure guide will be mounted. You should not make markings flush to the surface; it is better to make a small indent of 10 - 15 millimeters. If there are significant differences, then the distance increases. Of course this will reduce usable area premises, but do it
  necessary for leveling the walls. You will have to retreat somewhat if you plan to lay utility lines under the gypsum board or insulate the walls.
• The same mark is made on the walls to the left and right. For convenience, you can use a marking cord. Vertical markings are carried out, always checking the level.

Installation of guide profiles

• For guides frame structure take the UD profile. It is installed according to markings on the floor in the form of an inverted letter “P”. Fastening is done using dowel-nails with a pitch of 500 mm.
• Such guides are also mounted on the walls on the left and right. At one end they are inserted into the floor rail. After checking the level, they are secured with the same dowels.
• The ceiling guide is now secured. The ends are inserted into vertical ones and attached to the ceiling. To verify the correct installation of the upper profile, place a CD rack rail in the middle of the structure and check it using a level. If everything is correct, the ceiling one is also fixed with dowels and nails.

If the length of the room wall is greater than the length of the guide rails, then they are spliced. To do this, one end of the rail is inserted into the groove of the other, overlapping by 400 millimeters and connected to each other with press washers.

After checking the level of the guides, begin installing the rack rails.

Installation of frame posts

The racks are made using the CD marking profile.

• It is produced in lengths of 2.5 and 3 meters; if necessary, it is cut to the required height of the room. In this case, use a grinder or other tool for cutting metal.
• For greater strength, one post at a time can be inserted into the vertical guides, fastening them together with fleas.
• The width of the plasterboard is 1200 mm; you need to position the racks so that the joints of two adjacent sheets fall in the middle of the slats (30 millimeters will be enough to secure each of the edges of the gypsum board).
  Three rack strips are usually installed on one plasterboard element, but it is better to install four. This will significantly strengthen the structure of the future wall.
• After placing the racks in the desired position, they are attached to the guides from the bottom and top with press washers.
• The location of all rack profiles must be exactly level, which is checked during the installation process.
• Having placed the racks and secured them, they are connected to the walls using direct hangers.

The plates are applied to the surface of the wall under the studs and marks are made with a marker where the dowels will be driven in.

• Holes are punched under the dowels according to the marks, a plate is applied and a dowel is inserted into which a nail is hammered.
• The edges of the hangers are brought to the rack profile and rigidly fixed using flea screws. The excess ends are bent or cut off.

When fixing the profile to the hangers, movement of the racks is not excluded. How to install a profile under drywall, avoiding such a problem? You can temporarily attach a strip along the entire wall at approximately the middle height of the room. After connecting the racks with the hangers, it is removed.

When installing the frame, you first need to find the most protruding parts on the wall, and then, focusing on them, make markings.

The number of hangers per frame rack can be three to four. First, fix all the plates in the center, and then the rest.

The height of the plasterboard sheet is 2.5 meters. What to do if the room is higher? To do this in checkerboard pattern in the places where the sheets are located, jumpers are made at the top and bottom. They are also made from a CD profile, from which the shelves are cut off at both ends. The remaining part is applied to the racks and fixed on press washers.

At this stage, the installation of the profile for plasterboard is considered complete, and then proceed to covering the frame.

What to do if the distance of the frame from the wall does not allow the use of direct hangers? Cutting posts and rails are great for this. Taking a piece of slats of the required length, make cuts on the side shelves and bend them inward at a right angle. This method of fastening is very durable and will allow you to retreat from load-bearing walls to the distance required for insulation or laying any communication lines.

The decision has been made and you begin the renovation. The most reliable and practical way Make the interior original by installing plasterboard slabs on the walls. But before proceeding to this stage, it is necessary to install a profile under the drywall.

Starting independent work To install a profile under a gypsum board, you must have a set of tools that will be needed during the further construction process:

1. Water level.
2. Marking cord.
3. Marker.
4. Construction tape.
5. Square.
6. Construction level.
7. Hammer with a set of drills.
8. Metal scissors.
9. Pliers.
10. Screwdriver.
11. Screwdriver with reverse.
12. Hammer.

You also need to purchase:

• press washer with drill;
• ceiling dowels for concrete;
• structure extensions (if the height of the wall is greater than the length of the rack);
• straight dewlaps (toad);
• connective crab;
• profiles: wall (UD); wall guide (UV); ceiling (CD); ceiling guide (UD).

Marking the room

Before installing the drywall profile, you need to make markings, starting from any top corner. Using a water level, we level the upper part of the room, placing marks in each corner with a marker. Then, using a marking cord, we mark out the line for attaching the ceiling guide profile along the entire length of the ceiling. Using a hammer drill, we make holes in the wall at the place where the structure is attached with a frequency of 500 mm, after which we fix the guides using wall dowels, hammering them in with a construction hammer. We mount ceiling profiles into the installed guides. Fix the ceiling (CD) with a guide profile on each side with a press washer using a screwdriver. Installation of each subsequent CD is carried out at a distance of 600 mm. The direct suspension is attached to the ceiling with two concrete dowels, and to the CD with two or four press washers with a drill.

For greater rigidity of the frame, it is necessary to connect the CDs through 500 mm, using blanks 600 mm long and a crab connector, the use of which will make it possible to safely mount to it lighting fixtures and use wall plasterboard when constructing the ceiling, which is less susceptible to deformation during installation and subsequent processing. It should be noted that the height to which the ceiling frame is lowered depends on the length of the direct suspension and should not be small, because, as a rule, it is mounted under the frame mineral wool for insulation, wires for lighting, communications for the kitchen.

Return to contents

Installation of wall frame

Having installed the plasterboard profile on the ceiling, we proceed to the installation of the wall frame. The size of the space between the wall and the frame is selected taking into account the fact that it is necessary to insulate the wall or install soundproofing material. We start marking from the CD, using a building level, and draw a vertical line to the floor with a marker. After this, using a tape measure and a corner, we mark for installing the wall guide profile. It is necessary to carry out all preparatory marking activities so that the room, which is subsequently covered with plasterboard, has the correct geometric structure, that is, the presence of right angles at the profile connections. This, in turn, will reduce the amount of waste from subsequent stages of construction. building materials and will reduce the cost of financial resources, which is important.

Along the lines marked on the floor and walls, we fasten the guide wall profiles using a hammer drill and wall dowels. They are connected to each other at the joints by a press washer with a drill. Having correctly installed the wall guides, you get a quadrangular frame into which the wall profiles are fixed one by one. You need to start work from the corner of the room, carrying out installation every 600 mm horizontally and every 500 mm vertically, using straight hangers, which are also attached to the wall with dowels, and to the frame with a press washer.

The indicated work progress applies to all walls of the room being repaired. The fastening is original only in those places where it is necessary to install a window or door, but even in this case you must adhere to the installation rules. Profile for drywall in in this case it is necessary to begin mounting from the doorway or window installation location in order to obtain a rigid frame for the most durable fastening of drywall.

After completing the installation of the vertical components of the structure, it is necessary to secure them together along the perimeter of the ceiling and floor. This will allow you to avoid problems in the future when attaching the plinth to the floor of the room, as well as when installing a stretch ceiling.

The height and length of the room being renovated can vary, unlike the length of the profile.

If standard length metal profile is not enough, you need to use a standard industrial extension cord for it. It is attached using pliers.

At the moment, such material as drywall is one of the best finishing materials. It combines ease of installation, high efficiency applications and low price. However, in order to work globally with plasterboard, which means the effectiveness of its use in a particular area of ​​construction and finishing work, you need to know the basics of its installation. And this is exactly what we will talk about in our article today.

Of course, most people undertaking renovations prefer to use this finishing material without a profile, a kind of frameless installation, since an ordinary plasterboard sheet can be quite easily attached to a surface, for example, to a wall or ceiling, using simple self-tapping screws, and marks from holes can be easily repaired with ordinary putty. However, in this case it is necessary to have a surface on which to attach plasterboard, and if you need, for example, to make a partition in a room, then it is simply impossible to do without using a profile, and this method of installing drywall is called frame.

Profile frame can be covered with plasterboard

The frame installation method implies the mandatory presence of four types of profiles, to which, in fact, the plasterboard sheet will be attached. The PS profile is a rack-mount profile that is installed in a vertical position and acts as a kind of support for other types of profiles, and, in addition, also serves as a guide surface when attaching plasterboard sheets. This profile in its standard version has a length of three hundred centimeters, and square section with a side of five centimeters. In addition, there are other sizes of the rack profile, differing not only in their length, but also in the cross-sectional dimensions.

The second type of profile, which is necessary to create a complete frame for plasterboard construction, are the UV and UD profiles, which are horizontal guide profiles designed so that plasterboard sheets can be fixed to them. These profiles, as a rule, have the same cross-section, with dimensions of twenty-seven millimeters by twenty-eight millimeters, but the length, that is, linear measurements this profile, may be different, but, as a rule, in the standard version, the length of such profiles is three hundred centimeters.

And finally, the last type of profile that is required when creating frame installation plasterboard, is a PP profile - a horizontally positioned ceiling profile, which is often used to create structures suspended ceilings. The use of this profile is not mandatory, since you have the right to independently decide whether you will finish the ceiling with plasterboard or not, but it is worth noting that if you decide to do just that, then you will get the ideal shape of your room, since all corners when positioned future surfaces are strictly measured, and, therefore, about the problem uneven ceiling will be resolved by itself. In addition to the fact that you will need a profile, you will also definitely need connecting parts, without which normal and high-quality installation frame structure for plasterboard finishing simply not possible. You will need:

• U-shaped suspension for PP profile (ceiling profile);
• cross-shaped connector for connecting the PP profile at one constant level;
• U-shaped connector required for connecting the PP profile to various levels(if you want to create a multi-tiered ceiling);
• T-shaped bracket used in practice to create structures suspended ceilings

Types of profiles and connections for drywall

It is perhaps worth noting that you should not regret purchasing these connecting parts, since they are all necessary in order to withstand drywall profile weight, and if this is neglected, then it is likely that these connections will experience high stresses and loads, which may result in the destruction of the entire structure.

The installation of a plasterboard profile begins with nothing, namely with markings, since if this is not done in the proper way, it is likely that the surface will be uneven, meaning tilted vertically or horizontally. In order to produce correct markings under our future frame, you need to use a tool such as a level. Having such a tool, you must first go through it vertically and then horizontally, as a result of which it will be quite easy to identify whether the wall is “overwhelmed” by builders or not.

If the builders turned out to be professionals, and the wall is perfectly flat, then you can begin to install the profile, but if the builders still lacked professionalism, and the wall is tilted or has significant protrusions, then you should proceed as follows: you need to determine the most protruding point of the wall, visually project (imagine that the wall is not in a vertical position, but in a horizontal one) onto the floor, and add twenty-eight millimeters to the dimensions of this profile. The question may arise about why exactly twenty-eight, because the size of the UD and HC profile has a thickness of twenty-seven millimeters, but the whole point is that the profile design does not take into account the thickness of the metal, which can be forty-five hundredths of a millimeter and six tenths millimeter, and it is quite likely that when measuring this protrusion you will be mistaken by at least a millimeter.

After you have done this, at a distance measured from the wall, you should attach the UD and UV profiles to the surface of the floor and ceiling, respectively, and then attach the vertical guides to this profile. It is worth noting that before you attach the rack profile, you must again make markings so that when installing the frame for finishing plasterboard sheet no distortions have arisen, and only then install the hangers and attach the rack profile to them, which should be repeated on the wall every seventy centimeters, which will be the answer to the question that has arisen: how to set up a profile for drywall.

First of all, you need to mark the ceiling

Well, now the time has come to deal with the PP ceiling profile, since the question of covering the ceiling with sheets of plasterboard is very current question to date. First stage of creation ceiling frame is almost identical to how we marked the walls, after which, every one and a half meters, control hangers are placed for the ceiling profile. It is worth noting that if the dimensions of your room do not exceed a length of five meters, then it will be quite enough to install pendants on opposite sides of your ceiling, and place one in the center. If the room is large in size, then it is necessary to install intermediate suspensions to give the frame greater reliability, strength and stability.

After you have attached the hangers at the points you marked, you can start attaching the ceiling profile, installing it approximately every fifty centimeters, that is, two additional hangers are installed between the two control hangers. After the brackets are installed and the surface location is properly checked, you can begin installing the PP profile. It is worth noting that connection of profiles for plasterboard is no different from a similar process carried out on the wall, and the same self-tapping screws are used as connecting units. It should be noted that it is imperative to check the set dimensions for the profile, since even with an error of just half a centimeter, this will be negatively reflected on the surface of your ceiling, and it is quite easy to make such a mistake, and if you have the opportunity to use laser level(borrow from a neighbor, borrow from friends or acquaintances), then be sure to do this, if of course you want to get a high-quality surface.

Fastening the profile for drywall

And finally, I would like to talk about how to install the frame for multi-level ceilings from plasterboard. In fact, there is nothing special about this, since the same profile is used as when installing a regular ceiling. As always, it all starts with the markup. To do this, you need to “draw” a sketch of your multi-level ceiling on your ceiling, then level it and install brackets (U-shaped suspension) at the mounting points. Since our ceiling must be multi-level, therefore, some of the brackets are set at one height, and some at another. After you have done this, you only need to install the ceiling profile and fix the plasterboard sheets on it.

But what if you want, say, to make not a straight multi-level ceiling, but with various kinds of circles, smooth transitions, curves, and so on? There is no point in guessing, since again the familiar PP profile is used, with the only difference, perhaps, that as roundness and smooth transitions are established, small cuts are made on it using metal scissors or wire cutters, along which the profile and bends to the required radius. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that cuts that are too close can lead to instability of the entire frame structure, so they should be made as needed. In addition, such ceilings can only be created in fairly spacious rooms - from twenty square meters, and therefore residents of small apartments can simply forget about their ideas, or at least do it themselves. In all other respects, the design of the frame of a curved multi-level ceiling, in terms of its installation method, is naturally similar to the installation of a frame for rectilinear multi-level ceilings, although it should also be noted that it is necessary to use U-shaped suspensions much more often, since, nevertheless, this design is more unstable and complex.

Installation of profiles for multi-level plasterboard ceilings

Conclusion!

That's basically all we wanted to tell you. Now you can independently install a frame for sheathing wall or ceiling surfaces using plasterboard, with minimal necessary equipment, profile, fasteners and, of course, the stock of knowledge obtained in our article.