A wooden house has a lot of undeniable advantages, the main one of which is the environmental friendliness of the building. In addition, the use natural wood as building material allows you to create a truly homely home warm atmosphere. At the same time, such buildings can hardly be called durable, since despite modern antiseptic and anti-corrosion compounds, the walls wear out quite quickly due to aggressive influences environment. To ensure their maximum protection, wooden houses are often lined with brick - a much more durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material.

What you need to do quality work

Creating such protection is a rather complex process and requires a responsible approach. First of all, it is necessary to accurately calculate the materials needed to complete the work. These include:

• brick. You can choose either traditional building stone, silicate or facing clinker;
• steel reinforcement that will be required to build the foundation. Brick finish will have quite a lot of weight, so you won’t be able to do without a solid foundation;
• cement, crushed stone and sand for preparing the solution.

How to tax wooden house brick? In this article we will provide detailed instructions, which will make this rather complex procedure easier.

Setting up the foundation

For the strength and reliability of a brick-lined house, it is best to equip a durable strip foundation, which is constructed in several stages:

• We dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the building, the depth of which should reach at least half a meter;
• We place a cushion of crushed stone and a stove at the bottom of the trench, and carefully compact it;
• we tie steel reinforcement in the form of a rectangle and install it on the prepared base;
• Fill the trench with liquid mortar and wait until it reaches maximum strength. Usually only 6-7 days are enough.

How to prepare wooden walls

Before covering the house with bricks, you will need to properly prepare the walls for this process.

To do this you need to follow a few simple steps:

• we eliminate existing irregularities and protrusions along the entire perimeter;
• We thoroughly clean the walls from dirt and moss, ensuring they are perfectly clean;
• processing wooden surfaces antiseptics and compounds that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls.

It is also advisable to immediately insulate the walls from the outside. As thermal insulation material It is better to use mineral wool, which makes it possible to reduce the heat loss of the building, and can also serve for many years without needing replacement or complex maintenance. Be sure to lay a vapor barrier on the insulation layer, which will remove condensation.

Bricklaying

After completing the steam and waterproofing work, you can begin lining wooden house. For this purpose, we need a solution of cement and sand (proportion - approximately 1:4). In the process of performing work, you must be guided by the following rules:

• between wooden wall and brickwork, it is necessary to leave a distance of 6-10 centimeters to eliminate possible cold bridges and to effective ventilation which will prevent the occurrence of mold;
• in the process of laying bricks, be sure to control the level using special tools– weights, plumb lines and others;
• process all seams cement mortar or polymer compounds selected color.

We should not forget about the lintels that need to be laid in the locations of doors, windows, and other structures. You will need especially a lot of them if you want to cover it with bricks. two-story house. These elements can be made of steel angle or reinforced concrete products.

The technology of cladding a wooden house with bricks also involves the use of embedded parts, through which the masonry will be connected to wooden base. They should also be made of metal treated with anti-corrosion compounds to extend service life.

The last stage is execution finishing works, for which any modern or traditional materials can be used - plaster, siding, paint that is resistant to any external influences, and others. The choice depends solely on your capabilities and taste preferences.

Is it worth covering an old wooden house with bricks? As practice shows, this approach has many advantages:

• wooden walls will be maximally protected from aggressive environmental influences;
• if initially there is no foundation under the building, then you can make it more durable by laying concrete strip base around the entire perimeter of the house;
• it becomes possible to qualitatively insulate the walls from the outside and minimize the heat loss of the building, ensuring an optimal climate inside;
• The appearance of the home is significantly improved. Especially if you cover it with aesthetic facing bricks.

When facing walls with brick, a certain skill is required, because the masonry must be perfectly smooth and neat. To do this yourself, you need to study in detail how to lay facing bricks, what types of laying there are, and how to do jointing correctly. Finishing with such bricks is highly valued for its visual appeal and durability.

Bricklaying Tools

Brick parameters	Hyperpressed brick	Clinker brick	Sand-lime brick	Ceramic brick
Compressive strength, kg/cm²	150-300	300-500	75-200	100-175
Frost resistance, cycle	75-150	50-100	35-50	15-50
Moisture absorption,%	6-8	Less than 6	6-12	6-8
Thermal conductivity, W/m° C	0,7-0,8	0,7	0,3-0,7	0,3-0,5
Weight for size 250x120x65., kg.	4	3-4	3,8	3,5

For high-quality cladding you need the appropriate tools:

• building level - without it it will not be possible to lay bricks in even rows;
• trowel - it is used to apply the mortar, remove excess, and trim the brick when laying;
• hammer-pick - used for splitting facing material;
• grinder with diamond blades – used for cutting bricks;
• a square metal rod with a cross-section of 10x10 mm - for forming identical seams between the rows;
• round rod with a diameter of 10 mm - for jointing.

Additionally, you will need a thin construction cord or strong thread, anchors and binding wire to bind the masonry with load-bearing wall.

Types of masonry

Based on the location of the bricks in a row, there are several types of masonry:

• front (bed) - the brick is laid so that the widest side is visible;
• spoon - the long narrow side is visible from the outside;
• bonded - only the ends of the bricks are visible from the outside.

In addition, masonry is divided into types according to decorativeness:

• “half-brick” masonry - the vertical seams of the spoon or bed masonry are shifted horizontally by half the length of the brick;
• stacked - vertical seams between bricks are located on the same line;
• Flemish - spoon and bonded masonry alternate in one row;
• “American” - spoon and butt masonry alternate in rows.

If you have no experience, it is better to start with a standard half-brick spoon masonry, and as your skill improves, you can try other methods. It should be noted that stacked masonry is the most unstable, therefore it is used exclusively for decorative purposes.

Brick cladding technology

Step 1. Preparing the base

The facing must be laid on the plinth, therefore, when pouring and insulating the foundation, provide a protrusion of the plinth along the perimeter of the house to the thickness facing masonry plus 2-3 cm for the air gap. Before starting work, you should check the foundation with a building level to eliminate possible distortions. If any irregularities are found, they are eliminated with cement mortar. After this, the surface must be thoroughly swept.

Step 2. Mixing the solution

For brick mortar, it is prepared from M500 cement and clean fine sand. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1:4, and water is added in small portions. The finished mixture should be homogeneous and thick enough; if the ball rolled from the solution does not fall apart and holds its shape well, the consistency is considered correct. Be sure to use clean water for mixing, with a minimum amount of salts, otherwise unaesthetic whitish spots will appear on the lining - efflorescence, which is not so easy to remove. An important point: you need to mix the solution in a small volume, since the installation process takes time, and the solution dries quickly.

Step 3. Laying the bottom row

Place a container of water next to the workplace and soak the bricks in it. Experienced builders recommend laying the bottom row without mortar. Since the length of the perimeter of the house is not always a multiple of the length of the brick, in certain places you will have to trim the brick and choose the optimal location of the seams. If you lay the first row on mortar, trimming will be more problematic. They start working from the corner: using a level, each brick is laid on top and the seams are leveled. Be sure to leave 2-3 centimeters of free space between the load-bearing wall and the cladding for ventilation.

Step 4. Laying corners

Now you need to lay out the corners to a height of 4-6 rows. Place a square rod on the bottom row along the outer edge, pick up a little mortar with a trowel and carefully apply it. Having slightly leveled the mortar, lay a brick on top, knocking it down with the handle of a trowel so that it comes into contact with the rod. Check the location with a level, if necessary, knock it down again. Carefully remove the rod, wipe off the crumbs of the solution, and then repeat the same on the other side of this corner. When laying the following bricks, make sure that the corner is tied correctly: the ends should alternate with long edges on both sides.

Step 5. Wall cladding

When all the corners are laid out, proceed to. A strong thread is pulled between the corner bricks of the second row, laid on top and secured with something heavy. Now place a rod on the edge of the first row and cover the surface of the masonry with mortar. The bricks intended for this row are placed vertically on the ground, a little mortar is applied to the ends with a trowel, and then laid on the mortar with careful movements. Each of them is tapped, guided by the thread, the rod is removed, and the row is checked using a level.

Step 6. Attaching the cladding to the wall

If the brick cladding was not originally planned, it is necessary to link to load-bearing wall. This is done in two ways: using anchors and dowels with binding wire. In the first option, the anchor is driven halfway into the wall of the building, leaving the second part between the rows of cladding. It is better to take galvanized anchors with a diameter of 6 mm.

Second option: holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are inserted, and tie wire is attached to them. The wire should lie on the brick, but not extend beyond its edge. As a standard, fasteners are installed through 4 vertical rows and at a horizontal distance of 70 cm. For one square meter the surface requires about 5 fasteners. Around the openings, the distance between the dowels is reduced by about a third.

The remaining rows are performed according to the same pattern: pull the thread between corner elements at the height of the row, lay the rod, then the mortar and bricks. It should be noted that the width of horizontal seams should be 10-15 mm, and vertical seams a little less - from 8 to 10 mm. This type of masonry will look most attractive. Near the door and window openings, the brick is cut and fastened so that the row is not interrupted on the other side, then the masonry pattern above the opening will remain correct. Step 7. Laying the slopes

For greater decorativeness, the slopes are laid out from bricks of a different color. Along the perimeter of the slopes, cladding is carried out using the butting method; the resulting columns, one brick wide, may protrude slightly beyond the edge of the wall cladding. The slopes themselves must be strictly vertical, so when laying, control is carried out using the building level.

Step 7. Joining

As soon as the solution has set, you can begin to joint the masonry. The surface is swept, crumbs of mortar are removed, and the masonry is moistened with water. Prepare a working solution: mix cement and lime in equal parts, and then add sand. The ratio of sand to cement is 10:1, so much water is added so that the mixture acquires the consistency of a paste. After this, the seams are filled with mortar and they begin to be formed using jointing. The vertical seams are formed first, then the horizontal ones are unstitched.

You cannot lay out more than 6-7 rows at a time, as the masonry can become deformed under heavy load. Every 3-4 rows are checked with a level to achieve maximum verticality. You cannot fill the gap between the cladding and the wall of the building with anything; the air gap is necessary for ventilation of the surfaces, moreover, it also performs thermal insulation functions. Slope jointing can be done immediately after laying, so as not to rearrange the scaffolding twice.

Prices for construction and facing bricks

Construction and facing bricks

Video - How to lay facing bricks

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the most best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. But how to use it finishing material- this is already more economically justified: facing the house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help you save on heating costs, and will give the building a “major” appearance. If the walls are made of foam blocks or other light and warm building blocks, then such finishing will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, mildew and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish will occur.

Which brick to use

Facing bricks are produced according to different technologies, thanks to which he has different characteristics and prices:

• Ceramic. Of all the finishing materials, it is the most inexpensive. One of the disadvantages is high hygroscopicity: 6-15% depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction and the brick begins to crumble. Even the special finishing one, in which in factories the bed (the part that ends up outside) is specially protected. The solution is to cover the wall after installation. hydrophobic composition. Only those that do not form a vapor-proof film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it can withstand freezing/freezing without deterioration). The higher this indicator, the higher the price. This is explained by high production costs.
• Hyper-pressed or non-firing. This type of facing brick is produced not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments allows you to obtain a wide color scheme. The front surface is often nonlinear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such nonlinearity threatens delamination: Not flat surface, water flows more abundantly into the pores and freezes in cold weather. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. The frost resistance of high-quality unfired bricks is stated by manufacturers to be from 75 to 150 cycles.

  

• Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. Denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for use, but during laying it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it must be laid on a hard, low-plasticity mortar, and it is more difficult to work with. Another disadvantage that limits the wide distribution of a material with excellent characteristics is that it is expensive compared to previous materials: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is not a cheap pleasure, but it is the most attractive in appearance.

  

• Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most “quickly deteriorating” of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so great. If you consider that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is questionable. It is advisable to cover the house with sand-lime brick in warm regions. In the northern regions this is completely unprofitable.

  

  Cladding a house with sand-lime brick is the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, also the most short-lived type of finishing.

Choosing the type of brick is not everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. Solid finishing bricks are rarely used: they are more expensive and weigh more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they can be large and small. Given equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar and increase the strength of the masonry.

If you decide to clad the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and can be transported and loaded without fear.

Please note that the brick packaging should not be exposed to water during storage. This is especially true if you are planning to leave it for the winter.

How to cover a wooden house (timber, log, frame) with bricks

The most difficulties arise when finishing a wooden house with bricks: the materials have very different characteristics, and it is not easy to make a good bond out of them. The whole secret here is necessity ventilation gap between the cladding and a layer of insulation, which is usually applied to a wooden wall. A windproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation. Required condition- it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Izospan AS, Tyvek HouseRep, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will there be normal humidity in the room and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and the wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With sufficient thickness wooden walls The thermal insulation layer is simply missing, the wind insulation and ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure air flow, ventilation ducts are made in the first row through which air enters. Exit holes are installed under the roof in the eaves. The area of ​​ventilation holes is 75 cm2 for every 20 m2 of wall. Products in bottom row can be done in several ways:

• lay a brick with through holes on its side;
• partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, place a ruler, then remove it);
• make two or three holes and install gratings.

Regarding what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the wood rotting and indoor humidity to be higher than normal.

Another important point: you can cover a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the log house has passed. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have taken place in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with brick

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. From positive points can be distinguished:

There are enough negative points:

In general, this is not an ideal solution. If you are still planning your house, think a few times. Maybe it would be better to build them and then cover them with bricks. These materials coordinate much better and complement each other's qualities. It is worth covering a wooden house with bricks if the house is old, the wood has darkened, and it is necessary to give it a more attractive appearance.

Wall cladding technology

First the wood is processed protective impregnation for outdoor work. Then the sheathing is made of planed timber (also impregnated). The dimensions of the timber depend on the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Usually for Middle zone Russia needs a thickness of basalt wool of about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But specifically, everything is calculated depending on the thickness of the wall (made of timber or logs) and the brick chosen for cladding.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the sheathing is padded taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. This way the material will be laid with force. It will fit tightly to the sheathing, which will minimize the formation of cold bridges.

An example of brick cladding on the wall of a wooden and frame house

A windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation. It must be vapor permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then moisture must be removed from the room. Fasten the membrane with staplers to the sheathing. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and install a wall made of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are several subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually covered with half a brick. Without support, the wall turns out to be shaky, especially over large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are planning to cover a house with bricks with your own hands, problems may arise with the horizontality and verticality of the masonry. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

• Long pins are driven horizontally into the corners of the house under the roof and above the base. They should protrude from the wall to a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
• At one corner, a wire is tied to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry and lowered down, movably fixed to the lower nail.
• A plumb line is used to check and set its verticality and firmly fix it.
• Also, a vertical wire is tied at the same distance at the other end of the wall.
• Between two with stretched strings a horizontal cord is tied. It will serve as a guide during laying: it can be moved upward as the rows are laid. Just every time you need to check the horizontalness using a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. In this case, only wire or strips of tin for bandaging are attached to the frame posts.

To reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall stronger and more reliable. Therefore it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the laying, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. A special mesh with a cell size of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm are used as reinforcement. At the same time, the size of the seam, both with and without reinforcement, should be the same.

The brick cladding of a house was filmed “live”, the laying technique was “under the rod”. The seams turn out beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, the seams cannot be left in this form. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane as the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the “life” of brick wall cladding will increase significantly. The laying process itself is demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid carefully, and any drops that fall on the surface are immediately wiped away.

Facing a house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

The vapor permeability of cellular concrete is also higher than that of brick. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is material that removes vapors better. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap between the brickwork and the wall and foam blocks is necessary.

If you line a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, aerated silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensation will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials. At low temperatures frozen moisture will destroy the shell of the bubbles, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly worsening its characteristics.

Cladding options aerated concrete house bricks and their characteristics

Additional insulation materials are used very rarely; if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as for cladding a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by windproofing.

The size of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. Number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section- not less than 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connections, you can use screw or stainless steel nails with a length of at least 120 mm. They are driven not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45°. You can use galvanized strips with perforations, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the other end is wound into brickwork, where it bends at an angle. Please note: connections should not be embedded in the masonry joints of the main wall. Only nailed to the front surface of the blocks.

The best cladding for walls made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag-pouring house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks spread along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls is high.

Brick cladding houses made of cinder blocks (slag-filled) will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The duration of the delay depends on the condition of the material and the measures taken. On average he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the cost of a mistake is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, and carry out waterproofing work. One of which is external protection walls from precipitation using brick cladding. The brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (but does not create a vapor-proof film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations such as “Penetron” and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About choosing suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials vary greatly depending on the region. To correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region online. During the call, you need to get technical data and find out prices. Then compare the characteristics of the brick and compare the prices.

What can I advise: do not buy materials that are too cheap. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely these are the remnants of last year’s not-so-successful batch. For the rest, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

• silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles/piece;
• ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles/piece (full-bodied 45-65 rubles/piece);
• hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles/piece;
• clinker - 27-40 rubles/piece.

After selecting several possible suppliers, check out their products in person. Smooth edges, uniform coloring, absence of cracks and any defects - this is what you should see.

About batch sizes. It is advisable to purchase the entire volume of material for cladding at once. This will help you save about 10-15%. Some suppliers offer large quantities to be delivered by dump trucks directly from the factory. This is cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

Another advantage of purchasing in bulk is that there will most likely be only one batch, which guarantees uniform coloring. In any case, facing a house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

The appearance of the house is its calling card. Without beautiful modern and well made exterior finishing the house will look like a dull, unfinished structure. The longevity of your home will directly depend on the quality of the material and the work performed.

Today on the market there are huge amount materials for exterior finishing of buildings. This is siding (plastic, metal), tiles for facades, all kinds of wall panels, plaster, but the most popular is still facing brick.

Modern brick has a wide range of colors and large number textures, which gives the building an exceptional unique design.

There are several technologies for the production of facing bricks and, based on this, it has its own name and different characteristics. There is ceramic, hyper-pressed, clinker, silicate. Let's try to understand the features of each of the types of bricks available on our market and try to decide for ourselves which one is suitable for us.

Material selection

Ceramic brick

Ceramic bricks are made from clay and are relatively inexpensive. It has both disadvantages and advantages. The disadvantages include high hygroscopicity 6-14%, which depends on the type of clay used for production. When water gets into the pores and then freezes, the brick may begin to crumble. To reduce this factor, after facing the walls, the brick is coated with a special hydrophobic composition. Ceramic bricks are quite fragile and can begin to deteriorate during transportation. Frost resistance ranges from 25 to 50 cycles.

The advantages include: a wide variety of colors, sizes and shapes, relatively inexpensive price, environmental friendliness of the material, good thermal conductivity, good sound insulation.

Hyperpressed brick

Hyperpressed brick is obtained by pressing a lime-cement mixture followed by drying in a warm room. The addition of coloring pigments allows you to obtain a larger range of colors. Essentially this artificial stone shaped like a brick. It has texture and characteristics natural stone. Its strength characteristics are superior to silicate and ceramic bricks. Frost resistance ranges from 30 to 300 cycles.

Cons. Mass production in our country has not yet been developed and, as a result, the price is high. An uneven surface (under a stone) will allow water to flow into the pores and destroy the material. After covering the walls, just as in the case of ceramic bricks, they must be treated with hydrophobic impregnation.

Before purchasing hyperpressed bricks, you should pay attention to the date of its production. This brick can be used after 15-20 days from the date of its production. During this time, it gains 80% strength and will not break during transportation.

Sand-lime brick

Quartz sand is used to produce sand-lime bricks. The cheapest brick and most often used for the construction of main walls, and not for finishing the facade. It has a short service life of 15-50 cycles. Quite heavy (3 kg), therefore, a wall made of such bricks will require a more powerful foundation.

Heating costs will also be higher than those of competitors, since sand-lime brick has high thermal conductivity (from 0.38 to 07 W/m°C). In the warm southern regions of our country, you can line a house with such bricks, but just like the ceramic and hyper-pressed bricks described above, after facing the walls, they must be treated with a hydrophobic impregnation.

Clinker brick

Clinker brick, like ceramic brick, is made from special type clay, but the difference in firing technology gives it higher strength and a wide variety of colors. Clinker brick has a frost resistance of 100 to 150 cycles, which speaks of its durability. Such a brick is not cheap at all.

When choosing bricks for cladding a house, you should pay attention to one more fact - the presence and shape of the holes. Solid brick weighs more, requires a more powerful foundation and costs more than a hollow one. A brick with small voids will use much less masonry mortar, and the strength of the masonry will be higher than that of a brick with large holes.

When starting to build a house, it is necessary to provide and pour a foundation of sufficient width in order to eliminate all difficulties and additional costs for its improvement.

General points

To get an even and beautiful wall, laying bricks with your own hands must be done along a tightly stretched horizontal cord, and to maintain vertical joints you must use a plumb line. Laying begins from the top level of the plinth and using mortar the horizontal level is leveled. To obtain identical seams, metal rods are used. The rod is laid on the edge of the previous row, and then the solution is placed. Using a trowel, the mortar is leveled and the brick is placed on it. After laying the brick, the rod (template) is removed from the seam and cleaned of the mortar.

It is best to use ready-made masonry mixtures as a mortar for masonry.

How to cover a wooden house

The most difficult object to cladding with bricks with your own hands is a wooden house. The whole point is that it is necessary to provide a ventilated air gap (at least 50 mm) between the brick and the wooden wall of the house. To ensure air circulation between the masonry walls, ventilation ducts are left in the first row, and outlet openings are left at the top under the roof.

Determined required quantity vents based on the calculation of 75 cm per 20 m2 of wall. Bottom vents close ventilation grilles from the penetration of rodents. Before you start laying bricks, wooden walls must be treated with an antiseptic solution. If you want to insulate a wooden house, mineral wool is best suited as insulation. A wooden house cannot be insulated with polystyrene foam, since it is vapor-tight and the wood underneath will deteriorate.

Worth remembering! You can cover a wooden house with bricks only after it has completely settled.

A wall made of facing bricks must be tied to the main wall of the house with flexible connections. To do this, at an angle of 45° in top part timber (logs) nails 120 mm long are driven in at a distance of 50 cm from each other. A piece of knitting wire is tied to them in the middle. The nail is driven all the way in or bent to form a hook. The wire stretches from the nail to the middle of the brick and is spread to the sides by 15-25 cm. The dressings are “spread” evenly over the entire area of ​​the wall.

How to cover a foam block house

A ventilated gap is also required between a wall made of facing bricks and a wall made of foam concrete, since vapor permeability cellular concrete higher than that of brick. When laying bricks close to a wall made of aerated concrete, condensation will form between the materials, and as a result, when it freezes, the destruction of the material.

A house made of foam blocks is covered with bricks in the same way as a wooden house. Screw nails or galvanized perforated metal strips are used to connect two walls. The number of ties must be at least 3 pieces per 1 m2.

Brick cladding of a house with your own hands, breathe in new life the old building, and will give the new one a unique, wonderful appearance.

Video. Laying clinker bricks.

How to cover a wooden house with bricks? This question has become increasingly relevant lately, because the appearance of housing is business card every owner, and everyone wants to show themselves off the best side in this regard. And if there is construction stores huge assortment using bricks for cladding, any homeowner can tile their home in a very original way.

A wooden house lined with facing bricks is not uncommon. Such buildings are most often found in dacha cooperatives. The peculiarity of this structure is that wood is an environmentally friendly material, retains heat well and has an attractive appearance. And the brick, in turn, gives the house increased strength. However, not everything is as wonderful as it might seem at first glance. Such a building has both positive and negative sides, which you need to familiarize yourself with before starting finishing.

Pros and cons of brick cladding

Cladding a wooden house with brick has been known for a long time and has been very popular for many years. Every owner of a wooden home has at least once thought about this type of finishing, because it guarantees the longevity of the house. Positive qualities are not limited to long-term, they also include the following:

1. The most important advantage brick house– resistance to any weather conditions. This surface of the house can withstand rain, hail and strong gusts of wind, unlike all kinds of plastic cladding. In addition, due to the absence of cracks, the possibility of dampness in the room is eliminated and full protection from ultraviolet radiation.
2. Brick has fairly good thermal insulation characteristics, and in combination with a wooden base, the house will be warm even in the coldest winters. In addition, brick goes well with all kinds of insulation materials.
3. Individuality of each building. Modern finishing can have absolutely any color, since paint pigments are added during the manufacture of the material. Thanks to this, the owner can recreate exactly the exterior he wants.
4. Properly lining a wooden house with bricks guarantees the safety of the wood. This is due to the fact that after completion of the work, the wood is practically no longer affected by any external factors, so the service life of the material increases several times.

The advantages look very impressive, but the disadvantages also play a significant role, and it is worth familiarizing yourself with them before cladding the house. The main disadvantages include the following:

1. First of all, the question arises of strengthening the foundation, since the mass of the walls of the house increases several times. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out work to strengthen and expand the foundation of the building. And this is very painstaking work and large financial costs. In this regard, brick is significantly inferior to various plastic analogues, which weigh much less.
2. A question of finances. To carry out this type of work you will have to spend a lot of money on materials. In addition to the cladding material, you will have to purchase a large amount of concrete, reinforcement, waterproofing material etc.
3. The masonry process is quite long, complex and painstaking. Even if you do not take into account strengthening the foundation, the process of lining the house will take a lot of effort and time. Yes and for self-execution work requires quite serious knowledge and skills in construction, otherwise you will have to resort to the help of professionals.

Thus, having analyzed the positive and negative aspects, it can be noted that all the shortcomings rest on the large amount of work and the high cost of materials. In all other respects, this type of house cladding is of the highest quality.

If this option completely suits the owner, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the basics of performing the work.

Foundation and preparation for work

Sheathing a house with bricks with your own hands is a difficult task, but with certain skills and in accordance with technology, this type of work can be quite feasible. The first stage of any construction is laying the foundation. If the house has a wide base, then this stage may not be necessary, but in 99% of cases wooden houses the foundation is extremely weak, and it is impossible to do without expanding the foundation.

It is necessary to dig a trench along the perimeter of the entire building, the depth of which will be 50 cm and the width 30-40 cm. The width depends on whether a layer of thermal insulation will be laid; if so, the base should be wider. A depth of 50 cm is applicable for one-story building, and if the house has 2 or more floors, then, accordingly, the depth of the foundation should be much greater.

At the second stage, wooden formwork is installed along the entire perimeter of the trench, after which the lower part of the ditch is covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone. The height of this substrate should be about 20 cm. After this, 2 layers of connected reinforcement are laid in the trench. All that remains is to fill everything with concrete. It is recommended to fill in one go. Do not forget about the process of compacting concrete; this is necessary in order to remove air bubbles from the solution. You can’t start the main type of work right away. The concrete must harden completely, which usually takes about 1 month.

The preparation process for cladding consists of several stages:

1. It is necessary to dismantle unnecessary elements, such as lining, platband, etc.
2. Next, you need to clean the surface of the building from dirt, moss and paint.
3. The next step is to treat the surface with special antiseptic agents that prevent the formation of mold and rotting.

After completing the work to strengthen the foundation, you can begin the main stage of work.

Wall covering

At the first stage of work we return to the same foundation. First of all, it is necessary to waterproof it to prevent water from entering and mold forming between the wood and brick walls Houses. To carry out waterproofing, it is necessary to lay several layers of roofing material.

After this, the first row of bricks is laid. Cover the house at a distance of about 5-6 cm from the wooden wall. This is done in order to ensure air circulation. It is necessary to prevent the formation of mold. If insulation material is installed, then the distance should be significantly greater. Each laid row must be checked using building level. If deviations from the horizontal are detected, they must be eliminated over the next few rows.

When laying the second row, it is not recommended to fill the vertical seams with mortar; this is necessary in order to ensure the same air circulation. The same row will need to be made at the very top of the wall.

After this, all other rows are built. You should know that above the door and window openings you need to install a jumper that will hold the cladding. Metal corners or a concrete beam can serve as such a jumper.

Brick cladding is not independent of wooden walls. Contact between them must be ensured using anchors. Fastening must be done every 5 rows, the distance between anchors should not exceed 50 cm.

Care should be taken to clean the surface of the solution. This must be done before the concrete has hardened, since in the future it will be much more difficult, and you can damage the surface of the coating, which will negatively affect the appearance the entire building.

A few words as a conclusion

To summarize all of the above, it can be noted that a wooden house lined with brick will last much longer and become much warmer. Such a building is not afraid of many external factors. The main advantages predispose to this species finishing. But it is worth remembering that the work is extremely long and painstaking. It is necessary to clearly understand how to properly line a house. You will also have to spend a lot of effort, time and money to carry out the process. construction work. But the final result will meet expectations 100%, and the house will serve its owner for many years.