Fistula on the heating pipe. How to repair a fistula in a sewer pipe with your own hands

One of the most common problems that arise in a metal water supply and heating riser is the formation of a fistula.

Most often, a fistula appears on hot water pipes. It is quite simple to determine this problem: in the place where the fistula forms, a red growth or pitting corrosion appears.

The cause of a fistula on a metal pipe is wear. However, when this problem appears, it is necessary to think not about the reasons, but about rational ways to avoid a pipe break.

Before you begin to solve the problem that has arisen, you need to drain the water from the system by closing the stop valve and opening all the taps. After this, you can choose one of the acceptable methods.

Method one: sealing the fistula with a bolt

This method is not suitable for old pipes, since it involves cutting threads, and old pipes are not suitable for this operation, which can simply increase the diameter of the resulting leak. If you are planning to repair new pipes, then you will have to do the following:

take a drill and expand the fistula;
make a thread with a tap;
screw the bolt into the threaded hole.

Method two: installing a temporary bandage

This method is intended for sealing an oblong fistula. To apply a bandage, you need to stock up on a rubber gasket, which can be made from available materials: rubber from a boot, a tourniquet, a tire or a thick rubber glove.

The size of such a gasket should be larger than the fistula. To secure the gasket tightly to the pipe, you can use either bolts or special clamps.

Method three: eliminating the fistula with an adhesive bandage

IN in this case The work process consists of several stages.

First stage. Clean the surface of the riser from dirt using a metal brush. Then treat it with gasoline. After processing, allow the pipe to dry. This will take fifteen minutes.

Second stage. Take fiberglass and cut it into strips. The size of the segments should be such that one strip can be wrapped around the pipe six times. And the width of the tape should be larger diameter installed pipe by one third.

Third stage. Treat the edge of the resulting strip with BF-2 glue. Then apply epoxy glue to one side with a spatula. The glue must completely saturate the material.

Fourth stage. After this, a tape is wound around the water pipe, the central part of which should completely cover the damage site.

Fifth stage. The resulting bandage must be pulled together and secured with a strip of metal tape.

It is important to remember that the pipe after repair can be used in just one day if it is located in warm room. If the temperature in the room does not exceed seventeen degrees Celsius, then the riser can be used only after four days.

Method four: cold welding and fistula repair

Also used for temporary closure of fistula cold welding. In this case, it is necessary to use a drill to make the fistula wider, treat the pipe with acetone, having previously cleaned it, and apply the prepared composition, which will harden in ten minutes.

What to do with an old pipe?

Old pipes can also be removed from fistulas using clamps, the diameter of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipe. In addition, it is necessary to cut rubber bands that will be placed under the clamps.

This method is very convenient to use when a fistula appears suddenly at the wrong time of day. In order not to flood your neighbors before the emergency crew arrives, it is best to use this design.

If the fistula is small, then a car clamp will do. standard size. The repair process is as follows:

cut out the rubber tape. Its width should be either three to four millimeters greater than the damage site, or equal to it. The length is determined by wrapping the tape around the pipe;
open the clamp and put it on the damaged area;
lightly grab the clamp and insert the cut rubber gasket, carefully bringing it to the place where the fistula has formed;
close the damaged area and secure the clamp with a key or screwdriver.

If the damage has large size, then you will need a clamp of the appropriate size. To install it, you need to drain the water from the pipes, first turning off the water supply.

Before installing the clamp, you need to find out the condition of the pipe. All irregularities must be smoothed out with sandpaper, otherwise water will ooze over the resulting irregularities. The clamp is then installed in the manner described above.

In principle, repairing a fistula in a metal pipe is not very difficult. This task can be easily accomplished if you have the most common tools and materials at hand. Experienced masters recommend preparing necessary materials in advance if you have metal risers installed in your apartment or house. Then no leak will take you by surprise.

The term “pipe fistula” refers to deformation changes in the form of a through hole in the pipeline. The main reason The formation of this phenomenon on rolled pipes is considered to be pitting corrosion.

It is a clear signal that the pipe line needs urgent replacement. It is not always possible to perform a full range of pipe repairs with replacement, so it is only partially performed.

At the same time, we must not forget that such measures are temporary, and replacement of areas that have fallen into disrepair cannot be avoided anyway. You can use the help of professional craftsmen, or you can fix everything yourself.

How to eliminate an “accident”

To complete the installation you need to prepare the following tools:

Drill.
Bolts (set).
Brush for cleaning rolled metal.
BV-2 adhesive and epoxy adhesive type.
Acetone and gasoline.
Ketn.
Spatula.

Before sealing the fistula in the pipe, water is drained from the network. To do this, you need to close the stop valve and open each tap. The system should be free of residual water.

After this, the cleaned area must be degreased with acetone. You can use gasoline for the same purpose. When sealing, this stage of action is very important.

When applying a bandage to a workpiece with an uneven surface, it is impossible to obtain the most airtight joint, and all sealing measures will have to be repeated again.

On a well-cleaned surface of the product, the amount of deformation can be accurately determined. And, guided by the information received, they determine how to further eliminate the deficiency. According to the form of formation, fistulas are divided into: point and elongated. Each of them is eliminated differently.

How is the work carried out?

Repair of fistulas on pipes is carried out using the following methods:

Using a bolt. This method is used when it is necessary to seal a small hole. The hole is widened with a drill, and a thread is cut in the prepared hole. A prepared screw or self-tapping screw is screwed into it. In old highways it is not recommended to do this. The old age of used metal can lead to the appearance of a larger hole in the “problem” area.
Bandage with rubber gasket. This method is universal because it is suitable for all pipes and any type of water leak. The bandage is selected depending on the size of the leak. It is recommended to use a rubber gasket, and a strip 0.5 cm larger than the bandage and a centimeter smaller than the circumference of the pipe is cut out of it. It is installed under it and the structure is placed on the fistula area. If it is not very large, then during repairs it is allowed not to interrupt the water supply.
Repair with adhesive bandage. First you need to prepare a strip of fiberglass, or an ordinary bandage. The size of the tape should be such that it is enough to wrap the product six times. This ribbon is soaked with epoxy glue and wrapped so that the leak is located in the center. At the end, the bandage must be secured with a clamp. This pipe network will be able to function only a day after repair.
Sealing by cold welding. This option is temporary. It is intended for small holes. Afterwards, it is better to repair the problem area using one of the more reliable methods. The described method is not durable due to the fact that the influence of water and high temperature on liquid welding leads to its weakening. To repair using cold welding, you simply need to apply it to the water leakage area that appears on the product.

Video

In this article you will learn how to eliminate a fistula in a pressure pipeline.

Troubleshooting plastic products

Fistula on plastic pipe sealed in two ways: threaded and soldered.

The threaded method can only be used for products where thread cutting is possible. A piece of pipe line with a fistula that has become unusable is cut off with special scissors.

An insert is prepared from blanks of the required volume. On plastic materials the thread is cut with a tool. Then another structure is secured to the pipe network using fittings and couplings.

Welding on plastic pipe materials begins with cutting off the leaking area. After this, a fitting and a workpiece of the appropriate size are prepared.

A heated soldering iron for welding plastic pipes is used to heat the outer edges of the plastic and the inner edges of the fittings. On final stage Repair fittings are used to attach the prepared pipe.

This should be done without delay, as plastic tends to harden instantly, and an incorrectly fastened structure cannot be remade again.

Repair of copper products

Copper pipe fistula is not a rare occurrence. Copper pipes have been used in construction for a very long time. They are not only suitable for all types of highways, but are also characterized by high ductility and resistance to corrosion.

Video

Their service life is not limited, and they will easily last the entire period allotted to the house without breakdowns. But, sooner or later, situations arise when these products need to be repaired for fistula.

Copper systems are repaired by welding, which requires the participation of a specialist. To avoid the possibility of a large fistula, the network should be checked regularly. If any damage is noticed, it should be repaired immediately.

Problems in the heating line

Communications do not last forever, and even when using high-quality materials, a fistula can form on the heating pipe.

The underlying reasons for heating leaks are:

Wear. It is tied to a long period of use of the heating system. Most often they suffer from leakage steel products.
Violation of operating conditions of the heating system. This includes temperature and pressure surges and water hammer.
Use of goods of questionable quality.
Poor sealing of joints.

If a leak appears in the heating pipes, proceed as follows.

Video

You need to prepare several clamps with rubber seals (the most important thing is to remember to turn off the water, stop operating the heating boiler, disconnect the pumps from the power supply and turn off the necessary valves and taps). Repair of rolled pipes in the heating network depends on their type.

For example, steel pipes with a problem with a threaded joint will require dismantling the joint and applying a new winding layer.

If the destruction has occurred on the heating pipe itself, then the problem area will have to be welded using gas or electric welding.

If a copper pipe is leaking, it must also be welded. But, welding work with copper are quite complex, therefore, it is better to entrust them to specialists.

If metal-plastic pipelines of the heating system are leaking, then the entire section where the leak occurred will need to be replaced. In this type of pipe, it most often forms in compressor-type joints.

On heating pipes made of plastic, the problem is solved in this way. This is the replacement of an entire section. Soldering of polypropylene is recommended to be carried out in accordance with all standards for this work. Any errors can cause the joint to fall apart after a very short period of time.

Video

IMPORTANT! When working with plastic products, it is prohibited to make changes to the wiring diagram.

Features of metal pipelines

If we are talking about how to weld a fistula in a pipe, which is large in size, then there is only one recommended solution - a complete replacement.

And, if the fistula is small, then here are several options for action. But, these recommendations can only be applied when pipes made of metal are leaking.

Video

Option 1. In this case, the defect is eliminated using a medical bandage and cement for sealing. First, a solution of cement and water is diluted. 15-20 strips, 20 cm long, are cut from the bandage. The strips are moistened in the solution and wrapped around the line. The result is something similar to a cocoon. A cement mortar is applied on top of it. All this must dry for 24 hours, and then the pipe network can be started.

Option 2. Pieces of rubber to make repairs. A strip is cut out of rubber, slightly longer than the circumference of the pipe. The problem area is tightly covered with this strip, which is then fixed. For reliability, it must be covered with a bandage with cement, as described in the previous method.

Option 3. Bandage and table salt. This is how the small “gaps” between the joints are covered. To do this, wrap the leak site with a bandage mixed with salt. Salt, when dissolved, fixes the microleak. But this method cannot be used for large formations; you should act differently.

Defects in water supply networks

People often ask how to repair a fistula in a water pipe. Unfortunately, plumbing leaks are a very common occurrence.

In this case, the water leak can be sealed using devices such as a clamp, cold welding or any other folk ways.

The condition of the plumbing system must be constantly checked. If the workpieces have served long time, and it is not possible to quickly replace them, then it is necessary to prepare several clamps in reserve to make repairs, because a water leak in such products can occur at any time.

Video

If stains of rust appear on the water supply and paint builds up on the pipes in some places, this serves as a signal that pitting corrosion will soon appear.

IMPORTANT! A fistula in a cold water pipe under a layer of paint is not as dangerous as in an analogue with hot water. If the water comes from removed paint During repairs, a fountain erupts from the pipe, which can cause serious burns to a person.

Leaks in sewer lines

When considering the question of how to eliminate a fistula in a sewer pipe, it should be noted that coping with this task is a little more difficult than repairing water leaks in the joints.

At the beginning of the sealing, an assessment of the defect and strength of the workpiece will be required. Small leaks can be eliminated using plugs for this type of tube rolling. You can also try the repair method - wrapping it with gauze impregnated with epoxy resin.

An option with a rubber gasket secured with a clamp will help to temporarily seal a water leak. It and the clamp for repair can be purchased at any store. building materials. Also, its gasket can be fixed using wire.

Longitudinal cracks and chips on the pipe can be easily eliminated with sealant. To do this, the fistula is slightly enlarged, degreased and dried.

After this, a sealant is applied to the area. Metal materials in sewers from water leaks are sealed by cold welding.

Repairing leaks with your own hands

Water leaks occur at any time, so sealing fistulas in pipes with your own hands is a very important skill.

For very urgent repair of a fistula, it is recommended to use a clamp. It is a metal tie. And you need to apply the clamp this way:

The water supply system is shut down.
The bolts on the clamp are unscrewed and it is wrapped around the water leakage area.
The nuts on the clamp are tightened with an adjustable wrench, while the pipe itself is held in place with a pipe wrench. Without support when sealing with a clamp, the pipe can be damaged, which will result in additional water leaks and repair costs.

Video

Sealing methods using a locknut and a rubber band are also effective. In general, it is not difficult to repair and eliminate a fistula on a pipe.

If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, then you should invite professional craftsmen. And if the fistula is repaired using one of the temporary methods, then you should worry about how to carry out a full repair of the pipes in the near future.

(2 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5) Loading...

trubanet.ru

How to repair a fistula in a pipe: a guide to action

This article will look at how a fistula that appears on a pipe is sealed, what methods of sealing there are, and how to detailed instructions on completion.

The situation with the appearance of a fistula in a metal heating or water supply riser occurs quite often, especially in the case of a hot water supply riser.

The first sign that a fistula has appeared in the pipe and it can “explode” is the appearance in some cases of a red growth on it, which is scientifically called pitting corrosion, and popularly called “pipe in a pipe.”

Fistulas occur in pipes both as a result of wear and under the influence of stray currents, but at the moment the fistula appears, the cause fades into the background, and it is much more important to find out how to correct the situation.

Methods for sealing a fistula

Sign of a fistula

A fistula that appears in a pipe can be repaired in several ways, each of which requires first draining the water from the system by closing the stop valve and opening all taps. Let's look at the main methods of sealing fistulas in more detail.

Sealing with a bolt

Includes the following steps:

Important: this method not suitable for old pipes as they are almost impossible to cut pipe thread, attempts to cut usually lead to an increase in the diameter of the leak.

Sealing with a temporary bandage

This method usually used when the tubal fistula has an oblong, elongated shape.

A bandage with sealing rubber gaskets is applied to the fistula, and the following materials can be used as a gasket:

Thick rubber glove;
Old bicycle tire;
Medical tourniquet;
Rubber boot top, etc.

Important: the rubber gasket must have a size significantly larger than the size of the fistula.

The gasket is fixed to the pipe using special clamps or bolts.

Sealing with an adhesive bandage

Sealing with an adhesive bandage: 1 – pipe with a fistula, 2 and 3 – tape

Using an adhesive bandage, the fistula on the pipe is sealed as follows:

Clean the pipe wire brush from dirt, treat its surface with gasoline or acetone and allow to dry for at least 15 minutes.
The fiberglass fabric is cut into strips, the dimensions of which depend on the diameter of the pipe so that the length of the strip allows for at least 6 layers of winding, and its width exceeds the diameter of the pipe by at least a third.
The edges of the tape are treated with BF-2 glue, after which one side of the tape is coated with epoxy glue using a spatula.
Press the spatula firmly so that the tape is saturated with glue.
Next, tightly wrap the tape onto the treated and cleaned surface of the water pipe so that the center of the tape covers the damaged area.
The bandage is tightened with a metal tape.
After a day, you can use the repaired pipe.

Important: in the case of a pipe located in a cold room with an air temperature not exceeding 17°, you should start using the pipe only after 4 days.

Repair using the cold welding method

Cold welding

To temporarily seal the resulting fistula, you can also use special composition, called "cold welding":

The fistula is expanded using a drill.
The surface of the pipe is cleaned and degreased with acetone.
After drying the pipe, apply the composition to it and wait for it to completely harden for 10 minutes.

Important: work with epoxy glue and “cold welding” should be done with rubber gloves.

If glue or composition gets on your skin, wipe it with cotton wool soaked in acetone, then wash your hands thoroughly with soap. warm water.

Instructions for sealing a fistula

Such preparation can be useful if the fistula occurs at night - in this case, there is a risk of serious flooding while waiting for the mechanic on duty or the emergency team.

In the case of a small fistula, it can be repaired using a standard car clamp:

A thin strip is cut out of a piece of rubber, the width of which is equal to or 3-4 mm greater than the width of the clamp. The length of the tape is measured by wrapping it around the pipe and cutting off the excess part.

The clamp grabs a little.

Seizing the clamp

A cut rubber gasket is inserted under the clamp and carefully brought to the site of the fistula formation.

Gasket insert

Cover the fistula and tighten the clamp with a wrench or a screwdriver, depending on the tightening device of the clamp.

Repaired fistula

As a temporary measure when there is a fistula, very small size, but there is no clamp at hand, the fistula can be repaired by simply breaking off and inserting the tip of a match into it.

Important: this method should be used only as a last resort - as a result, when the pipes are very old, the fistula may not close, but only increase in diameter.

And even if the fistula is successfully sealed with a match, it should be closed as soon as possible using a clamp.

Clamp for large fistulas

In case of a more serious fistula, it is advisable to also have a more solid clamp ready (see photo):

The first step is to turn off and drain the water from the pipes.
Before installing the clamp, inspect the surface of the pipe. If it is uneven, it is smoothed out using sandpaper to prevent water from flowing through the existing roughness.
Next, as described, they cut out a rubber lining for a more powerful clamp and also install it in place of the fistula.

Closed large fistula

As can be seen from the article, self-sealing fistulas in pipes is not particularly difficult; it does not require any special skills or tools. If the apartment has metal risers, it is advisable to always have a couple of clamps and rubber gaskets ready for them so that the appearance of a fistula does not take you by surprise.

o-trubah.ru

How to repair a fistula in a pressure pipe in a plumbing and heating system

The article below will help you independently resolve the issue of sealing fistulas in pipes. The problem of how to repair a fistula in a pipe under pressure is indeed very pressing.

After all, a leak in water supply, heating, or drain pipes can occur at the most inopportune moment, and it must be resolved quickly and effectively.

First of all, you need to understand that all the proposed tips are interesting, but, unfortunately, they are not long-lasting, and the results in the future can be much worse.

They are not only not expensive, but also easy to install. Their installation is not complicated and is easy to do yourself.

When talking about methods for sealing leaks, we mean a “breakthrough” on a small scale. If water comes out like a fountain, then there is only one way out - replacing the pipeline.

Fistula is called pitting corrosion, which is formed from partial destruction of the material, or from general old age. As a result, a hole appears through which liquid flows out.

The external visual manifestation of the fistula is swollen paint and growths of rust. Having seen such a growth, you should not rush to tear it off, because the extent of the damage underneath is not predictable.

In general, repairing pitting is not a difficult job, but, nevertheless, it also requires serious preparation.

For such events you will need (experts say that you should always have on hand):

Clamp (a couple of pieces).
Rubber gaskets(they can be easily made from any available materials such as old boots, thick rubber gloves, a bicycle tire, and so on).
Screwdriver and bolts.
Epoxy materials.
Liquid for degreasing.
Emery.
Cold welding.

See also - how to fix a leak in a heating pipeline: elimination methods

Causes of fistulas

The reasons for the appearance of fistulas on a water pipe most often come down to one denominator. This is the effect of corrosion.

The most suitable temperature indicator for corrosive formations is +15 degrees. Most often, pipe rolling materials are in this mode in spring, summer and autumn periods.

Water located in the system also accelerates corrosive destruction. Over time, rust builds up inside metal pipelines.

The metal in such products becomes thinner every year. And then the moment comes when corrosion breaks through the wall completely. The result is a leak.

When a small fistula occurs, water slowly flows down the pipe line, where a puddle subsequently forms.

This problem must be eliminated immediately, without waiting until it turns into a big nuisance. If the leak is small, then it can be sealed under pressure without turning off the water supply.

Leaks in various systems

Fistula in a hot water pipe or any other system that consists of metal pipes can be quickly repaired in the following ways:

Option 1. Medical bandage and cement solution. It is cut into pieces and soaked in pre-prepared cement mortar. These bandages are wrapped around the leakage area, forming a cocoon-like structure.

Finally, the resulting structure is also covered with cement mortar. It dries in about one day.

Option 2. Pieces of rubber. Rubber is cut into strips. Each of them should be slightly longer than the circumference of the pipe.

Option 3. Table salt and a bandage. As a rule, this method is used to seal pressure leaks in couplings, elbows, etc. The leaking area is wrapped in a bandage mixed with salt.

When dissolved, salt fixes micro-leakage. If we compare this method of sealing under pressure, it is immediately worth noting that it is not as reliable as the first two.

Option 4. Bandage. This method can be used for pressure pipes. The bandage is considered one of the oldest and most proven options. A small car clamp can be used for a fistula with a volume of up to 0.005 cm.

For the clamp, a strip of rubber is cut out, a couple of millimeters wider than the clamp itself. The length of the strip should be one centimeter shorter than the circumference of the pipeline. The clamp is placed on the pipeline, and a rubber gasket is placed under it.

This entire structure must completely cover the fistula. Next, the clamp is tightened. During these activities, the surface at the site of corrosion must be cleaned.

Video: ways to repair a fistula

It should not contain any irregularities. If this is not done, the liquid will pass through the bandage in the area of uneven areas.

Fistula sealing in plastic pipelines

How to eliminate a fistula in a water pipe if it is made of plastic. Plastic pipe materials have recently been used very often.

They quickly replaced conventional steel products, thanks to a wide range of positive characteristics. These materials are not only easy to install, but also easy to repair when fistulas appear.

You can seal a leak on a plastic piece by using couplings and fittings (change part of the line). At the same time, a new piece of pipe with a thread is prepared.

Using connecting elements, it is installed in place of the area that has become unusable. If you are not sure that all actions were performed correctly, you can seek advice from a professional technician.

After inspecting the structure, he will give an accurate answer as to whether it is suitable for use, or will advise a complete replacement of the damaged pipe.

This method can be applied not only to plastic pipes, but also to metal ones. Only it will not be possible to eliminate the fistula in this way under pressure. You will have to worry about turning off the water in the plumbing system.

To ensure that water pressure (find out the optimal values for the plumbing system) does not interfere with repairs, it is necessary to turn off the main valve. It is usually installed in the toilet.

Video: fixing water leaks accessible ways

How to weld a fistula in a water pipeline

How to weld a fistula in a plastic pipe with water can be learned from the method that is attached below.

Unlike the previous option, which could be used not only for plastic products, this method is only suitable for working with PP pipe materials.

The actions are carried out using a special tool for soldering plastic - an iron. This tool melts the prepared components and fastens them after cooling.

To repair minor damage to an area, all repair measures can be carried out under pressure.

But, for a formation of significant size, the water supply system will have to be shut off, since it will be impossible to weld the defect under pressure.

Anyone can operate an iron. No special experience is required for this. Such devices come with instructions that describe the entire operating process step by step.

After reading it carefully, you can safely begin repairing the PP pipeline. It is not difficult to seal a leak this way.

Features of hot water supply

A fistula in a hot water pipe appears more often than in other places. The place that is most susceptible to this phenomenon is the riser. The first signs of danger in such a system are rusty growths.

Video: how to fix a leak in a drain pipe

It was already written above that if a decision is made to seal a leak, then this build-up cannot be torn off. In the case of hot water, such actions can cause serious burns.

Such a fistula in the pipeline can be repaired using a bolt or temporary bandage. In both the first and second cases, it is impossible to act under pressure. The water supply must be shut off before work can be done.

A small leak can be sealed under pressure using an adhesive bandage. The edges of fiberglass with BF-2 glue applied are applied to the damaged area (the tape is applied very tightly). At the end, the tape must be tightened with metal tape. Such a section will be able to function under pressure only after 24 hours.

Also in this situation, you can seal the leak with “cold welding”. It is better not to do such work under pressure. The resulting hole is slightly enlarged using a drill, and the area is degreased.

When everything is dry, apply the compound to the leaking crack. It should freeze completely. This takes approximately ten minutes.

Fistulas in wells

If we consider the sources of water supply in private areas, wells can be called the most promising. Compared to wells, they contain water of higher quality. It practically does not require cleaning or additional filtration.

During operation, the well, pump and water-lifting pipelines vibrate. This leads to weakening of the joints on the water-lifting mains, and accordingly, leaks (fistulas) appear. This often ends in serious accidents.

The well is operating with vibration of the water-lifting pipe due to pumping equipment, and this provokes weakening of the joints. As a result of the appearance of a fistula, the functioning of the well may be completely disrupted.

Video

Many owners of private houses try to carry out repairs and eliminate such leaks on their own, but experts strongly recommend trusting this to professionals.

Such repairs cost a lot of money, but they are completely worth it. Repair work on wells involves a number of complex operations that require special equipment.

Non-professional craftsmen may not be able to do this work. You can clean the well yourself and replace the pump. And carrying out these events will also require some skill in this matter.

Also, craftsmen without experience and knowledge who decide to close the “hole” need to keep in mind the following information.

Incorrectly carried out work can result in fatal results for the well. For example, it is impossible to remove scrap that was accidentally dropped into a hole when inserted into a hole. And such a loss is very common for amateurs who decide to do everything themselves.

Video: replacement water tap under pressure

IMPORTANT! Well service technicians say that well cleaning is a mandatory annual event. It can only be omitted for wells that are in constant operation.

It is equally important that specialists will immediately determine the true cause of the problem. And this will make it possible to seal leaks and avoid unnecessary extra costs. Plus, all the work will be done in as soon as possible.

Now it’s clear how to seal a fistula in a pipe under pressure. By carefully studying the proposed options, you can quickly fix this unpleasant problem.

(1 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5) Loading...

trubanet.ru

How to fix a pipe fistula yourself

Fistula. What is this? This term refers to a deformation in the pipe in the form of a hole. The main reason for its appearance is considered to be chiseled corrosion. This is a clear sign that the water supply structure is worn out and needs to be replaced. However, it is not always possible for a person to immediately carry out a full range of work to replace the system with a new one. In this case, you need to do partial renovation to eliminate the fistula. It is worth remembering that such repair work is temporary and does not eliminate the need to replace worn pipes. You can call a professional to carry out the work, but you can also do it yourself.

What is a fistula?

In order to eliminate a fistula, you need to stock up on the following tools and materials:

Drill;
Set of bolts;
Special adhesive composition BV-2;
Metal brush;
Epoxy adhesive;
Petrol;
Tap;
Acetone;
Kern;
Spatula.

Caused by rust

Before eliminating the fistula, it is necessary to drain the water from the system. For this purpose, it is necessary to close the stop valve. Then all the taps open.

How to fix a defect using a bolt

First you need to expand the fistula. This is done using a drill. Threaded elements are cut with a tap. The bolt is screwed into the widened hole. It is worth noting that these repairs are recommended to be performed only if the pipes are not very worn out. If the structure is old, it is unlikely that you will be able to make high-quality carvings on it. This will only increase the defect.

Fistula removal.

This type of repair work is optimally performed if an elongated fistula has formed on the structure. In order to seal it, a bandage with a rubber seal is applied. The seal can be made from rubber gloves, an unnecessary bicycle tire, a doctor's tourniquet, or a piece of rubber boots. The size of the seal must be larger than the volume of the defect in the pipe. This gasket is attached to the structure using clamps or a bolt.

How to seal a hole with an adhesive bandage

To begin with, the pipe is cleaned with a metal brush. It is then treated with acetone or gasoline. Wait about 15 minutes. At this time, you can start cutting the fiberglass into equal parts. Optimal sizes such tapes are directly dependent on the size of the pipes. The tape is cut correctly if it can be wrapped around the structure at least six times. The width of the segment should be three times the diameter of the structure. BV-2 adhesive is applied to the edges of fiberglass sections. Then an epoxy adhesive is applied to one side of the piece using a spatula. It should saturate the segment well. To do this, while applying the glue, the spatula must be pressed well against the surface of the tape. It is then wrapped around the structure. The middle of the segment should be in the area where the fistula formed. The bandage is tightened using a metal tape. The structure is left for a day. If it is located in a cold room, you will have to wait at least 4 days for the system to come into working condition.

We eliminate the defect by “cold welding”

The defect should be expanded using a drill. Then the structure is cleaned of dirt and treated with acetone. You should wait until the structure dries and then apply the “cold welding” compound to it. It dries within ten minutes.

Attention: If you use cold welding or epoxy adhesive during repair work, you should wear rubber gloves. The glue must not come into contact with skin. If it does get on the skin, it should be immediately removed using cotton wool soaked in acetone, and then the area on which the glue is found should be thoroughly washed with warm water and soap.

In conclusion, we can say that the listed methods for sealing a hole in pipes give only temporary results. We recommend that you replace the water supply with a new one. People who do not allow the structure to wear out do not even know that it is a fistula.

The sewer pipes, both for supplying and draining water, were sewn up in my apartment removable box made of plywood, and I could only guess about their condition.

Removal of the box showed that the cast iron sewer pipe, although it had a decent appearance, but on its surface there were several tubercles of wet rust, when touched, the fistulas were exposed. By the way, I painted a sewer pipe 12 years ago with a metal primer, and, as you can see, the primer lasted for many years, and the surface of the sewer pipe remained in excellent condition.

There are many recommendations on the Internet on how to repair a fistula. The most common method is to place a piece of rubber on the fistula and press it with a clamp. It is also recommended to hammer a lead cone into the fistula with a hammer, seal the pipe with epoxy resin and all kinds of sealants, drill out the fistula, cut a thread in the hole and tighten the screw with a rubber washer. In my case, it was impossible to use a clamp, since one of the fistulas was located at the branching point of the cast iron pipes. And without knowing the condition of the walls of the sewer pipe, using mechanical sealing methods can cost more. At the site of the fistula, you can get a large hole.

The second fistula was located on a straight section of the pipe; it was possible to apply a clamp, but the cost of pipe clamps large diameter quite high.

I was not sure about the reliability of sealing a fistula moistened with water with rusty edges with epoxy resin and sealants. And it was not possible to prohibit neighbors from temporarily using the sewer system in order to prepare the fistula site for sealing and allow the sealant to harden.

It seemed that there was only one way to get rid of the fistulas, to replace the cast-iron sewer pipe with a new, plastic one. But I had experience sealing groundwater leaks in the corners of a steel caisson installed in a garage. The method allows you to quickly close wet fistulas with your own hands, using available material.

To seal a fistula in cast iron pipe Sewerage from materials will only require a little cement and silicate glue, which can be purchased at any store that sells office supplies. All you need is one small brush, file or piece of sandpaper.

Before sealing the fistula, you need to remove paint and rust from the pipe around it, which do not adhere well. This work is done with a file or sandpaper. After cleaning the surface of the pipe, the location of the fistula became invisible. Obviously, the fistula was very small and was clogged with dust. If the opening of the fistula is larger, then you can close it with a layer of plasticine or any sealant. This will be a technological seal that will not further serve the function of sealing the fistula, but will serve only to allow the cement coating to be applied.

If cement mortar is made with water, it acquires mechanical strength in a day. But if the water for preparing the cement mortar is replaced with silicate glue, the mortar will harden in a few minutes. There is both a plus and a minus to such a high speed. While the solution is being mixed, it is already becoming solid. This difficulty can be easily circumvented by mixing the solution directly on the sewer pipe.

This is done as follows. First, a layer of office glue is applied to the site of the fistula with a brush. I took the sealing area much larger than the size of the fistula in order to prevent the possible appearance of a new fistula nearby.

Next, with the same brush, a layer of pure cement is applied to the applied layer of glue, and the cement is mixed with the layer of glue. Since the brush is in glue, cement adheres well to it and is convenient to apply and mix. The amount of cement applied should be such that the layer of applied adhesive is covered with a dry layer of cement. Immediately after applying a layer of cement, to prevent damage to the brush, you need to rinse it thoroughly in water and squeeze out the remaining water with a rag. To do this, it is advisable to have a small container of water on hand.

After 10 minutes, when the cement has hardened, a second layer is applied for reliability. To do this, you need to repeat the operation, paint over the previously applied layer of cement with glue and apply cement again to the glue, mixing with it.

To be safe, I apply three layers. adhesive solution cement. The resulting thickness of the seal is about 3 mm, which is quite enough to reliably seal the fistula. The work ends by applying a layer of silicate glue to the last layer of cement. After a few hours, the last layer of glue dries, the surface of the cement patch becomes light and smooth to the touch. You can coat the pipe with paint and the sewer pipe will look like new.

A heating system leak is not uncommon, and in most cases it happens unexpectedly, except for test runs of equipment at the beginning of the heating season. It is not always possible to determine reliably what caused the leak, and this is not always important, since restoring the tightness of the heating circuit is in the foreground in such situations. As a rule, major repairs are postponed until the warm season, and when a leak is detected, they choose what to temporarily cover up the leak in the heating pipe.

Factors characterizing system depressurization

The heating system consists of the following main elements:

heating boiler;
pipeline;
radiators;
control and measuring and shut-off valves.

All of the listed elements are mounted in a heating circuit, the tightness of which depends on the integrity of the constituent elements and their connections.

The choice of method to restore the integrity of the heating system depends on the following factors:

accessibility of the damage site;
leak status (fistula, loss of tightness of a threaded connection, etc.);
material of manufacture of the damaged element;
the ability to disable the system.

Based on the totality of the above circumstances, a method is selected to most effectively seal the leak in the heating pipe in the current situation.

Preparatory work

When performing spot repairs of a heating system, it is first necessary to determine the specific location of the coolant leak. If the pipeline is laid hidden (in the wall, in the floor), lined decorative elements or equipped with thermal insulation, the task becomes more complicated.

Important! In a situation where a pipe or joint embedded in a wall has leaked, it is advisable to consider the possibility of installing a new section of the pipeline, since it makes no sense to spoil the finish of the room to repair a pipe with a high degree of wear.

In the expected emergency section, the circuits are dismantled decorative finishing and thermal insulation, the location of the leak is found, after which the nature and extent of the damage, as well as its accessibility to repair, are assessed.

Spot repairs of the heating system can be of three types:

mechanical - using crimping and tightening devices, electric welding and other means not based on the use of sealing solutions;
chemical - using various types of sealing compounds that harden as a result of chemical reactions or drying;
combined - sealing the circuit using a combination of mechanical and chemical methods.

If selected mechanical method repairs, and the damage is not significant (needle fistula or drip leak), the heating system can be left in operating mode before starting work to eliminate the leak. If the damage is more serious, then the heating must be turned off:

the autonomous boiler is turned off, the coolant is drained;
in the system central heating it is necessary to close the valve of the common riser and hang a warning sign on it, and then also drain the water from the system.

The technology for treating the base before sealing the circuit depends on the material of the pipeline, the status of the leak and the type of repair, but, in any case, the final result of the work is largely determined by the quality of surface preparation.

Methods for performing repairs based on the location of the leak

In most cases, it is possible to fix a heating system leak on your own, without the involvement of professionals. To do this, we will consider methods for performing spot repairs of the circuit for the most common damage.

Elimination of a fistula on a straight section of a steel pipeline using mechanical methods

On horizontal or vertical section whole steel pipe Due to a number of factors (wear, corrosion, material defects), a leak often occurs, which can be eliminated independently and without significant costs.

If a fistula with a jet cross-section approximately the size of a match has formed in a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 50 mm, then it can be eliminated even without special preparation of the base, but the thickness of the pipeline wall must be at least 3 mm. The area around the damage is cleaned of rust and scale with a file or grinder, after which a self-drilling screw with a sealing rubberized washer is screwed into the hole with a drill. The length of the screw is selected so that it protrudes minimally at the exit from the hole inside the pipe and in no case rests against the opposite wall.

Important! When using an electric drill, the coolant in the pipe should not be under pressure so that a stream of water does not hit the tool and cause electrical injury or damage to the drill. For safety reasons, it is better to use a drill with a built-in 12 V battery, wrapped in a plastic bag with a slot for the chuck.

It is also better to know in advance how to repair a hole in a heating pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more and a larger fistula cross-section, since the consequences of damage to such a heating pipe are more serious, and the likelihood of an accident is no less.

The hole in the fistula is driven through with a drill of a slightly larger diameter in such a way that a thread can then be cut into it for the bolt. The wall thickness must also be sufficient for threading. The table shows the correspondence of drills and threads (taps).

Diameters of holes for metric thread with normal pitch

After cutting the thread, a bolt with a washer and a rubber sealing gasket is screwed into the hole. The length of the bolt is selected depending on the thickness of the wall - after screwing in, the part should not block the lumen of the pipe or rest against the opposite wall.

It is possible to eliminate a leak in a steel heating pipe without threaded elements - using caulking and electric welding. The hole is drilled to the nearest diameter, after which a cone (chop) machined from steel of a suitable size is hammered into it with a hammer. The remaining part of the chop outside is ground off with a grinder to such an extent that a small protruding cap remains, which is then scalded with electric welding. This method of eliminating leaks is reliable and durable, but it should be remembered that to weld galvanized pipes, you need to use rutile-coated electrodes, and the thickness of the pipe walls must be sufficient (3mm).

A single hole in the wall of a steel pipe can also be plugged using a narrow crimp clamp.

Such a clamp can be made independently from strip steel, but there is a large assortment of these devices on sale, the aesthetics of which are much higher. The clamp is selected according to the diameter of the pipe and, if it does not come with a gasket, such a sealing strip is cut out of rubber or paronite with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The device is put on the pipe, the gasket is aligned with the fistula, and the clamp is pressed with the necessary force. This method of eliminating leaks is also applicable to pipelines made of copper or polymer materials.

In a situation where several fistulas have formed in a small area, the above repair methods cannot be used - the pipe section is weakened, and repairing leaks one by one is not effective and even risks destroying the entire fragment of the circuit. A narrow clamp, like a chop, cannot be installed on an oblong-shaped damage (crack).

If at the moment it is not possible to replace the entire damaged section, then to restore the tightness of the heating pipeline, clips are used - wide clamps, the principle of operation of which is the same as that of narrow devices.

Repair of a pipeline on a straight section or a bend using chemical and combined methods

To eliminate leaks in the heating pipeline, various types heat-resistant one- and two-component sealants used on both steel and polymer pipes. The most widely used are high-temperature silicone-based compounds, characterized by a high degree of adhesion, plasticity and the ability to withstand temperatures up to 350 degrees. These sealing compounds are different from other types silicone adhesives reddish or brown tint.

Each of these compositions has its own instructions for use, set out on the packaging and providing for use in sealing joints and interfaces. But, if reinforcement is used, they can also be used on a plane, that is, on the surface of a pipeline, both steel and polymer.

Before starting work, the coolant is drained from the heating system, and the area around the damage is cleared of paint, degreased and dried.

Important! Adhesion silicone sealants to smooth surfaces more than to rough ones, so you should not treat the repaired section of the pipe with abrasives.

Reinforcement of the silicone sealing coating is done to increase the tensile strength of the shell and its resistance to mechanical damage. Serpyanka, a fiberglass masking tape, is used as reinforcement.

The sealant is applied to the prepared surface of the heating pipe in a continuous layer 2-3 mm thick, on top of which a serpyanka is screwed - end-to-end in turns. A layer of sealant is again applied on top of the first layer of mesh, and then serpyanka again, but with 5 mm overlaps of turns over each other. In total, there should be 4 or 5 layers of mesh with layers of silicone. It is necessary that the turns fit tightly, without folds with voids, like bandaging - with the tape turning around the axis at the end of each layer to return in the opposite direction. Such bandaging should cover sections of the pipeline 10-20 cm on both sides of the damage. The last layer on the pipe is made of sealant, which is smoothed with a hand dipped in soapy water. The end of the serpyanka is temporarily attached to the pipe with a nylon clamp away from the area being repaired - after the composition has cured, it is cut off flush with the surface of the sealant.

Depending on the type of glue and the total thickness of the sealing layer, curing, which occurs from contact of the composition with air moisture, requires from several hours to a day.

Using the same technology, using serpyanka reinforcement, heating systems are repaired using heat-resistant rubber sealants - also durable but elastic compounds that are successfully used both in everyday life and in production.

Please note that silicone and rubber sealants are commercially available for use in automotive engines. If the performance characteristics of such compositions meet the requirements heating system, then an autosealant designed for use in repairing an internal combustion engine will cope even better with sealing the heating pipe in everyday life.

To eliminate pipe leaks in a domestic heating system, ready-made repair kits are often used, which include everything necessary for sealing. An example of such means is the Siloplast repair kit, which is even equipped with protective rubber gloves. The main element in eliminating leaks in the kit is a tape with a special impregnation, which, upon contact with water (wetting during installation), hardens and forms a strong, hermetic shell on the pipe, which does not need to be covered with anything else.

The method of using Siloplast is described in detail on the packaging, and the success of the repair depends on compliance with this technology, as well as the quality of preparation of the base. The repair kit can be used not only on straight pipes, but also on curved pipe sections, as well as over threaded connections whose sealing material has lost its properties.

The material is produced for various areas of production, so when purchasing, you need to choose exactly the required type of repair kit, one of them is Siloplast “For Home”.

To restore the tightness of the heating system, special two-component compositions called “cold welding” are also used - mixtures based on epoxy resins with the addition of metal filler and additives responsible for specific characteristics glue under certain conditions.

The resin in the composition ensures the plasticity of the material after curing, and the metal-containing component increases the strength and hardness of the binder. Cold welding is performed in liquid and plastic form. Specifications, including operating temperature and method of application, are indicated on the packaging. All that remains is to choose the right type of sealant that matches the operating conditions and the material used to make the thermal circuit.

If the heating pipe does not leak significantly, then the question is how to cover the circuit on a straight section or joint threaded connection, can be solved with improvised means, for example, using “Minutka” glue or identical in action. To do this, the surface or crack to be repaired must be cleaned of paint, degreased and dried. Then the prepared area is wrapped with a layer of serpyanka end-to-end and rubbed into the mesh cells with regular baking soda(the first turn is first pinned to the pipe with glue). Then another layer of overlapping mesh turns is applied to the pipe, and the cells are again filled with soda. After laying the third layer of serpyanka with soda, the last turn of the tape is secured with a nylon clamp, and glue from a tube is applied to the resulting coupling, starting from the site of damage. The glue is instantly absorbed into the soda and, reacting with it, also instantly hardens, forming a durable shell. It is necessary to apply glue to the entire surface of the winding, the tubes are squeezed out one by one as they are emptied, the number of tubes depends on the area of the area being repaired.

If the damage to the pipe is a crack, then it is also filled with soda and glue is dripped on top, instantly sealing the damage. A serpyanka bandage is applied over the crack in the manner described above.

The method is applicable for repairing both steel and polymer pipes.

There is another way to seal coolant leaks in a straight or oval area steel pipeline heating, as well as over the threaded connection - using a bandage lining made of reinforced cement mortar. To do this, the system is depressurized to prevent water from oozing out from the damaged area, and the repaired area is cleared of paint and rust. Then an aqueous solution with the consistency of sour cream is prepared from cement grade 400 or 500, and the problematic section of the pipeline is bandaged in layers with a strip of canvas fabric that allows liquids to pass through it well (you can use a sickle or an ordinary medical bandage). Bandaging is done by coating each layer with cement mortar. As a result, a coupling with a wall thickness of at least 2 cm should form on the pipe, which is covered with the last layer of the same solution.

The effectiveness of the method can be increased if, to mix the cement, you use not water, but PVA glue, but not its paste type, but an emulsion one. In addition, instead of cement, you can use cement-based coating waterproofing

Ceresit CR 65, designed specifically for the installation of waterproof coatings.

Important! The use of a cement bandage to seal a heating pipeline is a temporary measure, since cement is not plastic and does not easily resist the tensile forces that will affect it during thermal expansion of the pipes, so even reinforcement with sickle tape will not save you from the occurrence of microcracks in the repair casing over time.

Eliminating leaks at threaded connections

If the coolant leaks at the junction of pipe sections made with a threaded method, or at the connection points to the heating radiator, shut-off valves, then the optimal action would be to dismantle the threaded connection to diagnose the cause of the depressurization. This refers to the situation when, when installing the heating system, fittings designed for adjustment - adjustment with a seal - were not used. Dismantling the threaded connection, which is carried out after draining the coolant from the system, will show the cause of the leak - wear of the thread or loss of the sealant’s qualities.

In the first case, the thread profile is refreshed by passing a hole (die) through it and cutting an additional 2-3 turns. If the thread is significantly damaged, then you will have to insert a new piece of the pipeline using welding or, again, a threaded connection (squeeze).

If the condition of the thread is satisfactory, the sealing material is replaced. To do this, the threads are cleaned of the remnants of the old seal and a new one is applied to it. To ensure reliable sealing, it is recommended to use a combination of a fiber seal (flax strand) and one of the types of sealant for threaded connections, including anaerobic ones, designed for independent use.

This procedure can be simplified by using a special impregnated universal sealing thread. The thread material can be natural or synthetic, the impregnation is most often silicone. This thread is attractive due to its ease of use, versatility and affordable price, which allows you to carry out repairs yourself and without significant costs.

FUM tape is widely used as a thread sealant - synthetic material, thanks to the fluorine content, resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

FUM tape is produced in three types:

FUM-1 – with vaseline-based lubricant, for use in industrial pipelines, including those with aggressive environments;
FUM-2 – does not contain lubricant, suitable for environments with oxidizing agents;
FUM-3 – for pipelines with a non-aggressive environment.

All three types of FUM tape are suitable for use in domestic heating systems and are quite effective in correct application on the thread.

In cases where the intensity of the leak is not significant, dismantling the threaded connection can be postponed until the end of the heating season, and the tightness of the connection can be restored by applying a reinforced bandage over the joint using one of the sealing compounds described above - silicone, rubber, cold welding.

Conclusion

When repairing a heating system leak, you should objectively evaluate the effectiveness and longevity potential of the repairs being made. Most of the means offered by manufacturers to eliminate leaks are designed to temporarily eliminate the emergency situation before taking radical measures, including production overhaul heating systems. Therefore, after diagnosing the causes of the leak and choosing how to cover up the damage, it is necessary to consult with professionals, without relying only on marketing advice in the store, sometimes provided by employees without experience in repair and construction activities. This will allow you to obtain an objective assessment of the situation and correctly plan repairs at the end of the heating season in order to avoid aggravation of the situation during the cold season.

Fistula. What is this? This term refers to a deformation in the pipe in the form of a hole. The main reason for its appearance is considered to be chiseled corrosion. This is a clear sign that the water supply structure is worn out and needs to be replaced. However, it is not always possible for a person to immediately carry out a full range of work to replace the system with a new one. In this case, it is necessary to perform a partial repair to eliminate the fistula. It is worth remembering that such repair work is temporary and does not eliminate the need to replace worn pipes. You can call a professional to carry out the work, but you can also do it yourself.

Tools and materials

In order to eliminate a fistula, you need to stock up on the following tools and materials:

Drill;
Set of bolts;
Special adhesive composition BV-2;
Metal brush;
Epoxy adhesive;
Petrol;
Tap;
Acetone;
Kern;
Spatula.

Before eliminating the fistula, it is necessary to drain the water from the system. For this purpose, it is necessary to close the stop valve. Then all the taps open.

How to fix a defect using a bolt

How to eliminate a defect using a bandage

How to seal a hole with an adhesive bandage

To begin with, the pipe is cleaned with a metal brush. It is then treated with acetone or gasoline. Wait about 15 minutes. At this time, you can start cutting the fiberglass into equal parts. The optimal sizes of such tapes are directly dependent on the size of the pipes. The tape is cut correctly if it can be wrapped around the structure at least six times. The width of the segment should be three times the diameter of the structure. BV-2 adhesive is applied to the edges of fiberglass sections. Then an epoxy adhesive is applied to one side of the piece using a spatula. It should saturate the segment well. To do this, while applying the glue, the spatula must be pressed well against the surface of the tape. It is then wrapped around the structure. The middle of the segment should be in the area where the fistula formed. The bandage is tightened using a metal tape. The structure is left for a day. If it is located in a cold room, you will have to wait at least 4 days for the system to come into working condition.

We eliminate the defect by “cold welding”

Attention: If you use cold welding or epoxy adhesive during repair work, you should wear rubber gloves. The glue should not come into contact with the skin. If it does get on the skin, it should be immediately removed using cotton wool soaked in acetone, and then the area on which the glue is found should be thoroughly washed with warm water and soap.