Step 23 Use nails to secure patterns to skates and ribs.

Step 24 Make sure that the following elements of material overlap the nail heads of the previous ones.

So, we looked at options on how to decorate the roof beautifully and quickly small building. Thanks to flexible tiles, high-quality waterproofing is ensured, and the roof itself will take on a truly original look!

Video - How to lay flexible roll tiles

10.Onduline

The French company Onduline SA, created in 1944, appeared in Russia in 1994. The manufacturer offers soft roofing material called Onduvilla, which is suitable for arranging the original and reliable roof. The product is a three-dimensional bitumen tile with an original shape and color that imitates natural tiles. In the process of manufacturing soft roofs, the manufacturer uses environmentally friendly raw materials, which consist of bitumen, mineral fillers, cellulose fibers and pigments from natural dyes.

Onduvilla from Onduline is painted in 4 layers: the first layer is a primer, the remaining three are decorative layers that protect the roof from fading. Flexible tiles are lightweight, which reduces the load on the roof and simplifies the installation process. The manufacturer guarantees the material against water resistance for 25 years, the service life of the roof itself reaches more than 50 years.

• withstands any extreme weather conditions without losing its qualities;
• not subject to corrosion;
• does not heat up in the sun;
• does not condense;
• good noise-absorbing properties;
• Each element of the material has a patented Smart Lock hydraulic lock.

• insufficient strength;
• flammability of the material.

Onduvilla leaf

9. Dock

The Deke Extrusion holding is one of the leaders in the sale of materials for country house construction on the Russian market. The manufacturer offers a series of Europa bituminous shingles for roofing different levels difficulties in cottage and low-rise buildings. The material can be used on roofs of any complexity and structure. Requirements for the slope of the slope are 12-90 degrees. Europa series contains different options collections suitable for every consumer’s taste. The holding's assortment includes other series of flexible tiles, such as: Premium and Standart.

• large assortment products for every taste and budget;
• sheets with anti-slip coating;
• good noise protection properties;
• The basis of the material is double PVC film.

For domestic developers in recent decades, bitumen shingles have become the most attractive roofing material. With varying degrees of success, it competes only with metal ones; piece roofing coverings, including slate, are far behind.

The more knowledge you have about the material, the easier it is to understand certain requirements for installation technology. This will allow you to avoid many annoying mistakes during roof installation and significantly improve the quality and durability of the coating.

What are bituminous shingles made of?

Layer name	Technical and operational parameters
Base	All top layers are applied to the base; it is made of durable fiberglass. It is not afraid of moisture, it can stretch a little and still not lose its original mechanical strength. The plasticity of fiberglass allows you to compensate for minor changes in the linear dimensions of the roof. There is no need to be afraid of deflections of the rafter system or sheathing, vibrations between slopes and chimneys. But this does not mean that the rafter system can be unstable; we only mean cases of critical loads during various natural disasters.
Bitumen	Natural natural bitumen in modern coatings not used due to very low performance indicators. Over time, it hardens, loses elasticity, and through cracks appear in it. Another problem with simple bitumen is that it reacts very negatively to ultraviolet radiation. To improve physical indicators scientists have developed special additives, the material has become much more resistant to various natural and climatic factors. Not afraid of UV rays, does not harden when negative temperatures ah, etc. But bitumen shingles still cannot be mounted at sub-zero temperatures.
Powder	Slate or basalt is used as a powder; to increase the surface area of ​​individual particles, basalt rocks are crushed into granules and become rounded. Such forms adhere very tightly to the bitumen and crumble more slowly. The granulate performs two functions. The first is purely technical – protection of modified bitumen from sun rays And mechanical damage. The second is improving the external designer look.

Prices for various types and manufacturers of flexible tiles

On the market building materials exists large number domestic and foreign companies engaged in the production of flexible tiles. There are many types of coatings that differ not only in design, but also in structure: technical characteristics of the base, features of modified bitumen, shape of shingles, external protective and decorative coatings. Accordingly, the installation technology is slightly different, but for all types of bitumen shingles there are several general and mandatory rules.

Base

Soft roofs are installed only on continuous sheathing.

It can be made from OSB boards, plywood or thin edged boards. The last option is the most expensive and most problematic from a technology point of view, and is not recommended. As for plywood and OSB, they fully meet all the requirements, and the thickness is adjusted by the pitch of the sheathing.

Thanks to this approach, it is possible to influence the cost of the structure. For example, lay cheap thin slabs on cheap unedged boards, rather than expensive thick slabs on expensive slats. One more nuance must be kept in mind. Many builders require that only waterproof types of plywood or OSB be purchased for continuous sheathing under soft tiles., although such materials are much more expensive than conventional ones. Why shouldn't you listen to their advice? Firstly, the sheathing should only withstand the load on the roof, and not protect it from leaks. Secondly, leaks must be eliminated immediately; no slabs will eliminate them. The sooner the roof is repaired, the longer the building will be in use. The durability and tightness of the roof in no way depends on the moisture resistance of the continuous sheathing.

Climatic conditions for installation

Most manufacturers claim that their soft tiles can be installed at an air temperature of +5°C. You need to know that this is the minimum temperature at which the adhesion rates of bitumen mastics are minimal. acceptable level, but it does not guarantee the reliability of fixation. In addition, the daytime temperature of +5°C most likely indicates that at night it dropped below zero. In such conditions, frost appears on the surface of the plywood or OSB, and on a cool day the moisture does not have time to dry completely. will arise big problems during sealing of places adjacent to the roof of chimneys, ventilation pipes and other engineering communications located on the roof. There is no need to risk the quality of the coating; work only in dry and warm weather.

Additional materials

The quality of soft tile shingles affects appearance and reliability of coverage on flat areas of slopes. But leaks most often occur not on smooth slopes, but in junctions, valleys, etc. These places are sealed with special additional elements and materials; only high-quality products must be used. It is very important that all elements and main coatings are from the same manufacturer. In difficult places, it is better to play it safe than to rely on luck and try to simplify the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

Tools

The main rule for all professionals is that the tools must be in good condition and complete. To install soft tiles you will need a drill, spatula, paint brush, metal scissors, measuring instruments and a beating rope. It is advisable to have a special belt, it is much more convenient to work with, all the necessary tools are always at hand. Experienced builders know how much work time can be saved if everything needed for installation is within reach and in its place. If the installation technology involves hot gluing, then you need to have a hair dryer for heating.

Prices for the model range of pneumatic staplers

Pneumatic staplers

Coverage storage rules

Before installation begins, it is opened and shingles from different packs are mixed. The fact is that production technology does not make it possible to make external coatings completely identical in shades; if they are not mixed evenly, then large multi-colored spots will be noticeable on the roof, which significantly worsens the appearance of the building.

Underlay carpets are stored in a vertical position.

Preparing the sheathing

In our case continuous lathing from OSB board with a thickness of only 9 mm, to increase bearing capacity I had to reduce the pitch of the sheathing. If in the future it is planned to insulate the roof from the inside, then it is necessary to install wind protection and provide vents for natural ventilation. Prepare materials and tools, mix shingles from different packs.

Important. Never work on a roof without insurance. Especially if the sheathing is solid, there are no slats on it that can delay the fall. In the absence of special professional equipment, you can use ordinary ropes and belts. We must remember that all safety regulations are written in someone’s blood.

The slabs need to arrive randomly, this increases the stability of the rafter system. For fixation, you can use ordinary nails (quick, durable and cheap) or self-tapping screws (long, expensive, but fashionable).

It is not necessary to fix the slabs using hardware made of stainless alloys; they are not affected by precipitation. The length of the nails should be at least 2/3 greater than the thickness of the materials being fastened.

But this statement is very controversial. Firstly, a slab firmly nailed with a large number of nails will not be able to expand freely; to do this, it must tear out the hardware. Secondly, it is protected by a lining and flexible tiles, which almost completely eliminates direct contact with water. Thirdly, if any leakage occurs, it will be local in nature and cannot wet the entire slab. Conclusion - there is no need to maintain any special gaps. They are there - great, no - not a problem. If for technological reasons you need to press tightly in some areas of the slab, press it. If you need to move it a little to the sides, let there be gaps.

Inexperienced builders do not know how to relate in practice the relationship between slab thickness and sheathing pitch. It's easy to do. Place two slats on the rafter legs at a distance of approximately 50 cm, with an OSB board on top. Press it with your hand with maximum force; if the surface sags, then reduce the pitch of the sheathing; if not, then you can increase it. There is no need to make long and complex calculations; the parameters are determined in just a few minutes.

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Laying valleys and underlay carpet

The laying of soft tiles begins with these operations. No big difference in coating installation technology various manufacturers and price categories. If you fully understand one type of roofing, then you can work with others without any problems. All work should begin with checking the slopes. You need to find out their length and width, measure the diagonals. The optimal case is that the roof has an ideal rectangular shape. If there are problems, then they need to be corrected partly at the stage of manufacturing the sheathing, and partly during the actual coating. The ratio should be chosen so that after corrections the roof has a symmetrical appearance.

Object before laying flexible tiles and installing OSB-3 slabs

Step 1. Work begins with valleys (joints of two slopes). Lay in them underlay carpet, it is sold as a set with a roof. The color of the front surface matches the color of the tiles.

The width of the carpet is at least one meter, there should be approximately 50 cm of protection on both sides. Carefully align the material, avoiding wrinkles. Cut off any excess pieces. After the fitting is completed, you should coat the edges with bitumen mastic and finally glue the carpet. The mastic must be of high quality, the width of the coated strip is at least ten centimeters. The thickness of the mastic layer is approximately 1 mm, cover the entire surface with the material without gaps, use a stainless steel spatula of the appropriate width.

The valley carpet is glued in parts after trying on and checking the position. Make sure that it does not move while pressing. You can press with your hands or with a hard rubber roller. To guarantee, nail it with wide-headed nails. But it is not necessary to do this; the valley carpet is covered from above with bedding and then with shingles of soft tiles. Drive the cloves in increments of 20–25 cm at a distance of three centimeters from the edge.

Step 2. Spread the lining carpet along the main slope from bottom to top. Pay attention to the white stripes, they should be at the top. Subsequently, the protective paper is removed from these strips and the next strip of coating is glued. The tape should be as even as possible; start fixing only after checking the position along the entire length.

Practical advice. If the roof slope is very large, then you can make intermediate fixations of the covering every 2.5–3.0 m, but the nails do not need to be driven in completely. They can be completely hammered in only after the roll has been rolled out to the edge of the slope and all folds have been removed.

Carefully cut off the excess along the edge of the slope. Secure the underlying carpet with nails, drive them in the usual order along the white strip, and later this place will be closed.

Step 3. When the first strip is fixed, you can begin laying the second. Carefully ensure that both white paper protective tapes are placed opposite each other, constantly checking the position of the material. Everything is fine - remove the protective paper from both strips and glue the covering. If the length of the roll is not enough, then the joining place must be overlapped by about 10 cm and be sure to coat it with bitumen mastic.

Using the same method, continue to cover the entire ramp sheathing. A gap must be placed on the ridge to ventilate the space above the insulation. Be sure to glue the underlay carpet to the valley; we have already mentioned that these places are the most dangerous; leaks most often appear here.

Prices for lining carpets

Underlay carpet

Fastening cornice and end metal strips

It's not only decorative elements, they perform an important technical task - they protect the sheathing from moisture and prevent the undermining of the bedding by sharp gusts of side wind.

Step 1. Replace the first eaves strip, making sure that it is positioned in line with the bottom edge of the slope sheathing. Secure it with nails in checkerboard pattern at a distance of approximately 20–25 cm. In these places it is advisable to use galvanized hardware, although ordinary ones will last for decades. Slide the next plank under the previous one so that it fits in place, cut the corner with metal scissors.

Step 2. Nail the end (wind) metal strips, the fixing method is the same as described above. The joining point is fixed with a separate nail. Make sure that there is no gap in the corner of the junction of the cornice and wind strip. Make a small release and carefully cut off the sharp corner with scissors.

Such work should be done along the entire perimeter of the roof. When all the strips are in place, you can begin installing the flexible tiles.

Practical advice. To make the work easier, it is recommended to do the simplest rope ladder. The leg is inserted into the loops, and the hands hold onto the knots. Such a simple device not only increases the safety of work, but also makes it easier for the roofer to climb a steep slope.

Laying soft tiles

You need to start working by accurately marking the position of the first row; for this purpose, a line is stamped on the lining. How exactly? Measure the width of the soft tile from the edge and add 10 mm to this value, this is how much the first row should retreat from the bend of the eaves strip. Such marks should be on both sides of the slope. Then, using a construction cord, you need to beat off the line. The markings made will speed up the work, and there will be no need to take measurements each time. In addition, with its help it will be possible to make the first row perfectly even, and this is what first of all catches the eye.

Step 1. Carefully inspect the back side of the tiles, there are two films there. One says that it cannot be removed before installation, but the other says the opposite. Remove the wide tape; it will reveal a layer of adhesive bitumen.

Step 2. Lay the first shingle so that its top edge lies exactly along the cut line. Align the edges, they should be located at a distance of 10 mm from the wind and cornice strips. Press the adhesive layer firmly onto the metal. Next, continue working according to the same algorithm, the shingles of the eaves tiles should be even at the joints, no overlaps are made.

Step 3. Start gluing regular shingles. Before installation, you also need to remove the protective polyethylene film.

Important. Regular tiles 10 mm narrower than the cornice. For correct installation you need to align the upper ends of the materials along the same line; at the bottom there will be a difference in length of one centimeter.

Make sure that the ends are perfectly parallel to the metal strips. Press the shingles firmly with your hands. We have already mentioned that the warmer it is outside, the better the coating adheres, the more reliable the fixation.

Drive nails with wide heads at a distance of 1 cm under each adhesive strip. There is one peculiarity - at the top of the shingles, only one nail is driven in at the corners. In this way, secure the entire first row of shingles.

Step 4. After completing the installation of the first row of conventional shingles, you can begin the second. The technology requires that the second row be glued with a shift, due to this the joints of the first shingles are covered and sealed, and at the same time the heads of the driven nails are closed. Manufacturers have provided for such an offset; there is no need to measure anything. Step back the width of the adhesive strips and position the next shingle above them, taking into account the dimensions of the cutouts. Further, the installation technology is no different.

Due to the fact that the second row is laid offset, the outermost shingles will have to be cut. Place it in place and mark the cutting locations. It is better to cut soft tiles on small wooden stands; they are guaranteed to protect the litter from accidental damage. But experienced roofers do this on already installed shingles, turn the shingles back and carefully sharp knife cut off. It is not recommended for beginners to do this; the risks of damaging the coating are too great.

Step 5. On each fixed row, in turn, bend the sheets of soft tiles and hammer a nail under them. Then coat the back of the petal with mastic and glue it to the bottom shingle. The petals have under protective film bitumen, but to guarantee adhesion strength, experienced builders recommend additionally lubricating the surfaces with mastic. This does not take much time and completely prevents elements from being undermined by gusts of wind.

How to design a valley and ridge

Find the exact location of the valley, step back 2–3 cm and insert a thin wooden slats. It is needed to ensure that the coating is not damaged when cutting off sections of the flexible roof protruding beyond the bend. You need to cut them off with a sharp knife under metal ruler(can be used building level), a lot of effort will be required, achieve the most even and neat cut possible. Move the wooden batten up the valley as needed and continue cutting off excess soft tiles. After this, you need to completely lay the tiles on the second adjacent slope and again make a cut along the bend. You will get an even and beautiful junction of two slopes.

A special additional element is mounted on the ridge. It should close the gap from rain and snow and at the same time provide effective ventilation of the under-roof space. We have already mentioned that this is necessary for warm roofs, if they are cold, then ventilation is not done. The panel is bent at the desired angle and placed on the ridge, secured with nails coated with anti-corrosion coating or made of stainless alloys. To protect against ultraviolet radiation and improve the design appearance, the surface of the plastic ridge element is covered with flexible tiles, which are nailed. Don’t forget to put special foam tapes in place; they prevent insects from entering the ventilated space.

Video - Installation of bitumen shingles

The article contains information about the technology of roof covering with bitumen shingles. The construction of a roof made of soft tiles, the technology of laying bitumen shingles and the nuances of the installation process were disassembled. Having assimilated the information received, you will know what and in what sequence the masters will do and ask the right questions, which will show that you understand the topic.

Roof covered with soft tiles Source 999.md

Online roofing calculator

To find out approximate cost roofs various types, use the following calculator:

Lathing for soft tiles

You need to start by disassembling the sheathing. Since bitumen shingles are a flexible and thin material, when placed on any plane, it exactly repeats all its shapes. Therefore, installation of a flexible roof is carried out only on a continuous sheathing, assembled either from boards, or from sheet or slab materials, for example, from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB.

The plank sheathing is laid on rafter system roof, leaving a gap of 1 cm between the boards. This is the so-called compensation gap in case of moisture and temperature expansion of lumber.

Plywood and OSB boards are laid on a sparse sheathing of boards 20-25 mm thick and 100 mm wide. The installation step of the boards depends on the size of the sheets or slabs being laid. For example, if 125x125 mm plywood is chosen for a continuous sheathing, then the installation step of the sheathing elements should be within 70 cm. The edges of the sheet of plywood should lie on the two outer boards, and there should be another one between them. That is plywood sheet must lie on at least three boards.

Solid plank sheathing Source krysha-expert.ru

And two important points:

a gap of 1 cm is left between the laid slabs or sheets;

The panels are laid with an offset of half the element, thus achieving uniform distribution of loads on all sheets (slabs).

Flexible tile installation technology

Like all construction processes, laying bitumen shingles is divided into two stages: preparation, and direct installation of the roofing material.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer roofing services of any complexity. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Preparatory work

The first preparatory operation is the installation of a drip. This element, made of painted galvanized steel sheet, is a corner up to 3 m long. The width of each shelf varies between 15-25 cm. The purpose of the drip edge is to strengthen the eaves overhang and create conditions under which water flowing from the roof does not get under the sheathing .

The drip line is secured to the sheathing with roofing nails, which are driven into the top shelf in a checkerboard pattern every 15 cm. Adjacent planks are installed overlapping each other with an offset of at least 3 cm.

Source eltctricon.ru

Installation of under-roof (lining) carpet

First, what is under-roof carpet? This is a roll material from the bitumen-polymer category. It is laid on the crate so that:

Correct minor defects in the sheathing laid on the rafters.

Increase the waterproofing qualities of the roofing covering.

Prevent condensation from forming on wood flooring.

So, the technology of laying soft tiles on the roof begins with the installation of roofing material. First of all, it is laid in strips on valleys and cornices. But we must start with the valleys. The lining material has a width of 1 m, so it is laid out so that it covers the slopes from the valley on both sides of 50 cm. Moreover, this type of material is self-adhesive, so the sheathing under it is not treated with adhesives.

Lining material laid on the valley Source gorizont-k.ru

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses in which ventilated facade technology was used - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Then the covering is laid on the overhangs along the cornice. In this case, the vertical hanging shelf of the dropper is covered halfway. Next, cover the remaining open area of ​​the roof slope with rolled material. Here are a few nuances:

strips of under-roof carpet are laid on already laid ones (on the cornice and on the valley) so that the horizontal joints are overlapped by 10 cm, vertical joints by 15;

Galvanized nails are hammered into each laid strip in places where they overlap, that is, the heads of the fasteners must remain under the edge of the adjacent strip, the fastener spacing is 20-25 cm;

strips of lining carpet, which cover the main part of the slope, are laid perpendicular to the eaves and ridge of the roof, starting from the bottom, rolling the roll up;

each strip is secured around the perimeter with nails;

To improve the sealing of joints, the edges of the strips are coated with bitumen mastic.

Laying lining material on the roof slope Source eltctricon.ru

After the under-roof carpet has been completely laid, the pediment strips are installed. They cover the edges of the laid material along the slope and will subsequently prevent moisture from penetrating under it. The installation of the planks is carried out in exactly the same way as in the case of cornice elements.

Now it is necessary to strengthen the waterproofing qualities of the valley, because this element is subject to the greatest loads from rain and melting snow. For this purpose, a valley carpet is used - a roll-type material made on the basis of a rubber-bitumen composition, reinforced with a polyester mesh. It is matched to the color of the bitumen shingles.

It is simply laid out on the valley, gluing it to the lining carpet with bitumen mastic, which is applied under the edges of the material 10 cm wide. An additionally laid strip is pierced along the edges with roofing nails. The step between fasteners is 20-25 cm, the distance from the edges of the strip is 3 cm.

Source family.hr

Installation of bitumen shingles

The preparatory stage of installing a roof made of flexible tiles has been completed. You can proceed directly to laying the roofing material itself. The first operation at this stage is the installation of the starting tiles.

In principle, it makes no difference where to start laying (from the middle of the cornice or from the edge). But experts recommend starting installation from the middle for long cornices. This makes it easier to level the starting line horizontally.

What is a starting line? This is the same ordinary tile with the petals cut off. Although many manufacturers produce a universal element that covers the roof eaves and its ridge.

The starting strip is laid along the eaves, 1.5-2 cm away from the edge of the overhang. At the same time, its edges must cover the gable strips. This element is a self-adhesive material. But it must be pierced with roofing nails in the corners and along the perimeter every 20 cm, departing 2-3 cm from the edges of the strip. If ordinary tiles are used for the starting strip, on the back side of which there is no adhesive composition, then an underlay carpet must be laid under the installation site of the strip. coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of the starting strip Source eltctricon.ru

Installation of ordinary tiles

The main requirement for laying the first row of soft tiles is a distance of 1 cm from the bottom edge of the underlayment. An important requirement is the correct nailing of the material. The fastener should not cut into the roofing material, it should press it against the sheathing. Therefore, you cannot nail it too hard or do it obliquely.

In this case, each bitumen shingle is nailed with four nails. The place of hammering is 2.5 cm from the upper edges of the petals. This is done so that the nail heads remain under the soft tile roofing element laid on top. If the angle of the roof slope is more than 45°, then the roofing material is pierced with six nails.

Now, regarding the layout of ordinary tiles. It all depends on the model of the material used. For example:

the “Jazz” model is laid regardless of the location of the petals;

the “Trio” and “Sanata” models are mounted with an offset of half the petal.

Laying and fastening ordinary tiles Source eltctricon.ru

Valley design

First of all, they form a valley zone into which nails cannot be driven. This is a distance of 30 cm in each direction from the valley axis. This is the most vulnerable place, where the accumulation of water is always large. Therefore, making any holes in this area is prohibited.

But the tiles themselves are laid, covering the valley area with a small gap of 5 cm. Only in areas where nails cannot be used, bitumen mastic is used. Therefore, these areas are treated with it, applying a width of 10 cm, and the tiles are laid.

Pediment decoration

The technology is the same here:

installation is carried out so that there is a gap of 1 cm from the edge of the laid plank to the roofing material;

flexible tiles are glued to the base and metal strip with mastic and at the same time secured with nails.

Connection to the pipe

Chimneys and ventilation pipes are elements that are required on roofs. The most dangerous area is the junction of these pipes with the roofing material, so it must be hermetically sealed.

Source migurban.ru

To do this, make a pattern from valley material or sheet iron coated with protective paint. But first, the walls of the pipes are covered around the perimeter with sheet iron, which is attached to the pipes with self-tapping screws. The height of such a plinth should be 30 cm.

A strip 50 cm wide is cut out of the valley carpet. It is laid near the pipes so that it covers the baseboard (30 cm) and the laid bitumen shingles (20 cm). The method of fastening the strip is bitumen mastic.

Important point. First, close the lower side of the pipe (meaning the lower one along the slope), then two side ones with an approach to the bottom, and finally the top one with an approach to the sides.

Next, lay the tiles themselves, coating the laid valley material with mastic. The tiles are laid on the sides of the pipe so that they do not reach 8 cm from the pipe. All that remains is to mount the metal strips, which are installed so that a canopy is formed over the walls of the pipe. Therefore, the shape of the slats is Z-shaped. A groove is placed on the pipe, into which the upper shelf of the element is recessed. The strips are attached to the pipe itself with self-tapping screws. After which the joint is filled with grooves silicone sealant.

Covering the baseboard with a valley carpet and bitumen shingles Source bouw.ru

Sealing roof penetrations

Small pipes and antennas create joints in the roofing pie through which water can penetrate underneath roof structure. When constructing a roof from soft tiles, it is necessary to take into account these passages. To seal them, special rubber caps are used. They are laid so that their lower edge extends 2 cm onto the laid tiles. A mark is made on the lining carpet where it is necessary to cut a through hole for the passage.

Cut a hole with a jigsaw.

Bitumen mastic is applied to the back of the cap.

The cap is placed in place.

They secure it with roofing nails, punching it around the perimeter.

A layer of mastic is applied on top of the cap skirt.

Installation of soft tiles is carried out.

The joint between the roofing material and the cap is filled with sealant, which is sprinkled with stone pavement on top.

Source eltctricon.ru

Skate decoration

To cover the roof ridge, a universal element is used, which was used as a starting strip. It is simply cut into three parts, each part is laid crosswise along the ridge, with the edges hanging from each slope, and nailed to the sheathing with roofing nails. Lay the cut out parts from bottom to top along the inclined edge of the ridge with an overlap of 3 cm. In order for the cut out parts to bend well along the ridge, it is recommended to warm them up a little construction hairdryer.

How to cover a ridge with soft tiles Source yandex.ru

To ensure roof ventilation, special ridge elements are used, the design of which has slots or holes. Through the latter, air outflows from under the roof structure.

The ventilation element is installed along the ridge, secured to the sheathing with nails, and then bitumen shingles are glued on top.

Video description

How to properly install bitumen shingles on a roof in the video:

Video description

For information about mistakes in installing bituminous shingles, watch the following video:

Conclusion on the topic

So, the soft tile roof is ready. No further operations will be required. The main task of the work manufacturer is to strictly follow the instructions that come with the roofing material. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there are certain additions or changes in the technology being carried out for each model of tiles. They are also indicated in the instructions.

If flexible tiles are chosen as the roofing material, do-it-yourself installation can be done by a home craftsman without assistants. Not to be confused flexible roof with soft, which is presented in the form used for flat roofs.

Installing flexible tiles yourself

Due to the extremely simple design that flexible tiles have, do-it-yourself installation is not difficult, even for a non-professional. This roofing material is available in the form of shingles:

• rectangular sheet of fiberglass impregnated with bitumen;
• the lower part is treated with SBS compound or natural bitumen for gluing to a continuous sheathing, the self-adhesive layer is protected during storage and transportation by a polymer film;
• The top is covered with fiberglass similar material, sprinkled with slate, granite, basalt chips or quartz sand to increase wear resistance.

Gaunts different manufacturers have not same sizes(medium format 1 x 0.35 m), thickness 3 mm. There are several types of tile patterns:

Tools

To lay the roofing material in question, it is enough hand tools, present in the arsenal of a home master:

• knife – for cutting bitumen materials;
• scissors – for cutting metal strips;
• hammer - for fastening with nails;
• brush - for coating with mastics.

Useful information! In the off-season, in winter, a burner may be required to heat the bitumen layer. Strength decreases and labor intensity increases, so warm weather without precipitation is recommended for self-installation.

Laying theory

To make it easier to work at height, the shingles have a small format. They are laid from the overhang to the ridge with a ledge so that each upper row overlaps the lower one. Valleys, chimney passages and ventilation pipes are processed first. Then the cornice and pediment strips are fixed, and the gutter brackets are attached. After that, all that remains is to fill the surfaces of the slopes with shingles, cutting them to width and length as necessary.

Installation technology

If you are laying flexible tiles with your own hands without helpers, it is enough to follow the technology below to avoid mistakes, reduce cut waste, and achieve the maximum possible service life.

The roofing pie must be prepared accordingly:

• vapor barrier film - mounted on the rafters from the inside/attic to prevent moisture from penetrating into wooden structures, however, 100% protection is not possible; some of it still penetrates;
• thermal insulation – extruded polystyrene foam or basalt wool, placed between the rafters, partially supported by a vapor barrier film from falling inside;
• waterproofing (wind protection) – stretched from above, allowing moisture to escape and condense on the surface;
• counter-batten - is packed along the rafters, providing a ventilation gap that allows condensed moisture to be removed from the surface of the waterproofing by air flows;
• lathing - solid OSB boards, multi-layer or tongue-and-groove boards.

Important! Continuous lathing is not allowed unedged boards, since there is no flatness of the surface of the slopes. All defects will be emphasized by flexible tiles after installation.

Substrate

The lining carpet with a slope slope of 12 - 18 degrees is created continuous. To do this, the valley is covered with a hydraulic barrier OS GC vertically (obliquely), and the overhangs at the eaves are covered with the same material horizontally. Roll material the underlay carpet is glued to the sheathing with mastic in horizontal stripes from bottom to top.

The launch width of the hydraulic barrier for each slope in the valley is 0.5 m. The sheets of the lining carpet have an overlap of 15 cm in adjacent rows and 10 cm when increasing the length in the vertical direction. The frequency of fixation with nails is 25 cm; additional coating with mastic is carried out in the overlap.

Useful information! When the slope of the slopes is more than 18 degrees, it is enough to treat the valleys, overhangs at the eaves, the junction of the hip slopes, and attic roofs in the specified way. In this case, the middle part of the slopes is not treated with lining carpet.

Installation of planks and drainage

Eaves, gable steel strips are necessary to strengthen these roof elements. In these areas, one edge of the shingles does not overlap, so the likelihood of scuffing and loosening during wind loads and heavy rainfall increases. Metal strips increase the spatial rigidity of the sheathing; they are mounted with nails (15 cm pitch + checkerboard pattern) with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm.

Depending on the design and placement of gutters, eaves overhang At the same stage, brackets on which the drainage gutters will be hung can be attached to the sheathing or eaves strips.

Facing slopes

In order for flexible tiles to have maximum service life, laying shingles with your own hands begins with markings:

• parallel to the eaves overhang or ridge, lines are marked along the entire length of the slope every 0.8 m for every 5 horizontal rows;
• lines are drawn perpendicular to the previous marking every 1 m for each vertical row.

The resulting grid allows you to control the placement of the sides of each shingle in a row and adjust as necessary. The markings are especially relevant for roofs with dormer roofs, skylights, chimneys, ventilation pipes.

Useful information! There is no need to nail shingles along this grid; it is created as a guide and makes the craftsman’s work easier.

The technology for installing shingles will include several stages:

• cornice row - cut out from ordinary shingles (models Accord, Sonata, Tango, Trio manufacturer Shiglas) or ridge-cornice strips (modifications Jazz, Accord, Sonata), mounted on top of the steel cornice strip 2 cm from the bend;

• first row - with a significant length of the slope, work begins from the middle, the indentation of the cornice row is 1 - 2 cm for different modifications of the coating;

• subsequent rows - also from the center, the petals of the pattern are shifted by half or in accordance with the complex patterns of the front part, the lower edge of the shingle should be flush with the upper edge of the cutout of the lower shingle.

Useful information! Starting from the third row, you should maintain the direction in which the shingle blades are shifted. Otherwise, after just a few rows the overall pattern of the coating will no longer match.

The nails should be placed perpendicular to the slope of the slope so that the head presses the material parallel to it, without distortions. There is no need to recess the hardware heads. The punching pattern is present on the manufacturer's box, as it differs depending on the model of flexible tiles and the roof slope.

In the absence of a factory-made self-adhesive layer, the shingles are coated on the reverse side with mastic along a width of 10 cm from the top edge. For normal water drainage from gable strips, shingles are cut 2 cm from their edge.

Junction nodes

Depending on the configuration of the roof, it may contain ridges (ribs formed by adjacent hip slopes similar to a ridge), fractures (the junction of slopes on one side of the house in an attic roof), valleys (internal corners in the junctions of an L-shaped roof, a dormer window ).

There are two options for designing valleys:

• open - shingles are launched from both sides onto the valley carpet, nails are nailed 30 cm from the mating axis, two lines are struck with a coated cord parallel to the axis on each slope, the roofing material is cut along these lines, placing a board, glued with mastic, and fixed with nails in the usual manner;
• closed - shingles from one slope (usually with a smaller slope) are launched onto the adjacent one, nails are punched 25 cm from the axis of the valley, 7 cm from the axis on an unsheathed slope, a line is struck parallel to the axis of the valley, the shingles are cut, they are finally attached, then to The shingles of the second slope adjoin this line in the usual manner.

Connections (to walls, parapets, and other structures) are made using triangular slats (“glazing beads”) nailed at the corners of the joints. To do this, 50 x 50 mm timber is laid out, the surface of the wall to which the roof adjoins is pre-leveled with plaster or putty. Then, on top of the shingles, a piece of valley carpet 50 cm wide is glued onto the mastic, extending 30 cm onto the wall.

Useful information! From above, this piece of valley carpet is covered with a metal apron strip, the upper side of which is embedded in the seams of the masonry or groove in the concrete.

It is better to decorate chimneys and ventilation pipes with special ceramic and steel additional elements. The shingles are adjacent to them or overlapped from above.

Article

Flexible tiles today are one of the most popular materials that are used in the form of roofing for roofs. There are several reasons why it has become so widespread in our market.

Firstly, in terms of all possible colors and shapes, it occupies a leading position among all types of coating. Today, each brand of bitumen shingles is represented by at least 40-50 types of different options, so even the most fastidious buyer can always find the option he likes. Secondly, in terms of convenience and speed of installation - this is also the most successful, from a technological point of view, coating option that does not require the use of special equipment and tool. Due to its low weight, the work of lifting and delivering directly to the work site is simplified. Thirdly, having the properties of elasticity and flexibility, this type coatings can be used on any type and shape of roof, even those with radial curvature. The last advantage characteristic only of this type of coating is that with the advent of bitumen shingles, it became possible to implement projects of certain roofing forms that were previously impossible to carry out technologically. It should be noted that such material is affordable.

Before laying flexible tiles, it is necessary to carry out a number of activities that are related to the arrangement of " roofing pie" In this article, I will consider all the stages of work associated with laying bitumen shingles, which must be completed after the installation of the rafter system is completed.

Installation of waterproofing film

The first stage of work involves laying a waterproofing (windproof) film. IN in this case you can use a diffusion membrane film, since the roofing tile does not contain elements susceptible to corrosion. In this regard, there is no need to apply additional measures to eliminate this type of impact on the material. This class of insulation is quite widely represented on the market, but the most optimal and often used in construction is the waterproof film of the Czech company Juta, called Jutafoll 110-D. When purchasing, pay attention to the “D” marking, since this letter means that the film is waterproofing, and not, for example, intended for use in the range of negative temperatures, unlike other markings that are intended for indoor use only. The number 110 is not so important, since it indicates the density of the film. If this parameter is higher, then this will only have a positive effect on the technical characteristics.

Installation of the membrane is quite simple. The first roll of film is rolled out along the eaves overhang across the rafters and nailed to them with pre-prepared slats. It is convenient to shoot the film with a staple gun before doing this. The slats will act as a counter-lattice and act as a ventilation gap between the waterproofing film and the main sheathing. These measures are taken to organize circulation air flow, and thereby eliminates the collection of moisture in hard-to-reach places. Also, given the fact that the air has good thermal insulation properties, these measures are designed to solve the problem of heating in summer and freezing of the roof in winter (the formation of ice and icicles is excluded). The height of the slats is chosen within 25-50 mm, the width must be strictly equal to the width rafter leg. They are cut into lengths of 150 cm, as is the width of the film.

The lath does not overlap the film to a distance (an overlap of at least 12 cm is made at any membrane joints). In all cases, galvanized rough nails are used for installation, the length of which is selected depending on the thickness of the counter-lattice (the length must be at least +50mm of its thickness). On all roof ridges, the film is not applied 5-10 cm to its end due to the fact that the air movement under roofing covering it starts from the cornice and ends at the ridge, so there is such a gap to allow it to come out. The film can be glued together with double-sided adhesive tape, but this is not a necessary condition.

Lathing and final surface preparation

Next, the final sheathing is placed on top of the counter-lattice. Any board (both edged and unedged) is suitable as a material, the thickness of which is selected in the range of 25-30 mm. Before installation, the material must be dry (with a relative humidity of no more than 20%) and must be treated with a fire-bioprotective agent. Also, when using an unedged board, it is necessary to completely remove the tree bark, since in the future this can lead to woodworms getting in between the bark and the wood. The distance between adjacent boards should be no more than 30-35 cm (depending on the thickness of the board used). The length of the nail is chosen such that, when nailed, it pierces both the sheathing and the counter-lattice and fits tightly into the rafter by at least 2-3 cm.

The peculiarity of flexible tiles as a covering is that the roof plane must be smooth and even before laying it. Therefore, if an edged board is used as flooring (this option is allowed by the manufacturer), then differences between adjacent boards are not allowed to exceed 2 mm. This must be carefully monitored to avoid fractures and kinks of the tiles during installation.

It is better to start installing OSB boards on the roof from the hip.

I recommend using moisture-resistant OSB-3 board as flooring. The thickness is usually chosen 10-11mm. Unlike a board, when used, it produces an ideal plane; also, having moisture-resistant properties, it does not warp or warp throughout its entire service life. When laying, it is necessary to make 3-5 mm gaps between each sheet of slabs to prevent their swelling at the joints, since the linear dimensions of the material will change with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. To nail the slabs, galvanized nails 3x30 with a large head are used. The nailing pitch between nails is 25-30 cm.

Then they proceed directly to laying bitumen shingles. First, lining carpets based on fiberglass are rolled out. They are optional waterproofing material between OSB-3 board and bitumen shingles. If the roof slope is less than 18 degrees, then underlay carpets must be laid over the entire roof plane. But even at large angles of inclination, carpets must be laid in the following places:

• On the eaves. This is one of the most important places especially in winter period, since when the snow melts, ice and icicles form in these places, and in this case the load in the parts of the roof under consideration increases.
• On the gables. Such places are most susceptible to moisture ingress during slanting rains.
• On skates and ribs.
• In valleys (joints of roof planes). Here it is necessary to use carpets with color tinting of the main roof covering.
• In places of various connections and abutments of walls, chimneys and others.

In valleys, the carpet is laid with an overlap of 0.5 meters.

The distances from the edges of the cornices should be about 1-2 cm, since in hot weather the underlay carpets may heat up and straighten. They need to be nailed only in upper parts at a distance of 20-25 cm, and all joints should be made with an overlap of about 10 cm. Then the cornice and pediment strips made of stainless steel are installed. To do this, you need to use the same 3x30 galvanized nails with a large head. The planks are nailed in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints there is a mandatory overlap of 15 cm, secured with two nails.

After this, they proceed to laying the first row of tiles. According to the standards, it has a rectangular shape (without petals). First, all places where metal strips come into contact with bitumen shingles must be coated with bitumen mastic. The mastic has a fairly thick consistency when room temperatures, therefore, to simplify working with it, it is necessary to preheat the container with the product. It is applied to the surface of the tiles using a narrow construction spatula. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1-2 mm, since it does not contain adhesive base, and with thick seams, the lubricated surfaces can simply come apart. One shingle is nailed with four nails at the top. If the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, then two additional nails must be used.

The second and subsequent rows of tiles are nailed with an offset of half a period (1/3 or 2/3 depending on the chosen shape of the tile itself). Every 3-4 rows must be checked for horizontalness, or pre-marked for the upcoming row (a thread with colored talcum powder is ideal for this purpose), but this is quite painstaking work and takes a lot of time. When adjusting, bitumen shingles have to be cut. To do this, it is better to use a short knife with a blade pointed at the end. It is necessary to cut off from the back side of the tiles, placing a piece of a flat board or plywood to prevent accidental damage to the previously laid tiles. A knife is drawn along the mark about 3-4 times, then the shingles are bent along the cut line, and the tiles are easily divided into two parts.

To work on roofs with a slope of more than 30 degrees, a series of additional measures, increasing the convenience of work. The first thing you need to use when working is a safety cable or rope. The second is the use of temporary slats, which are nailed to the slope, bending the petals of the already laid tiles. Otherwise, during installation you will have to constantly keep the rope taut, since you will not be able to stand on such slopes on your own. And thirdly, the use of overalls (construction overalls) for competent and functional distribution of the necessary tools into pockets and loops for quick access to them.

In areas of ribs and ridges, the installation of tiles is carried out with an overlap (the sheet run is bent 10-15 cm to another plane of the roof and nailed). Then the tiles are cut into individual petals and mounted on top along the line of the ridge (rib), and each subsequent petal is nailed in such a way that the places of the nail heads are covered from the previous tile element.

There are several basic methods for installing shingles in valley areas. The first is that the tile elements are laid end-to-end on both roof planes. The second involves laying tiles within 10 cm of the center line. The latter method is preferable from both an aesthetic and practical point of view, since a kind of hollow is formed between the two roof slopes, which simplifies the drainage of rainwater, and thereby prevents the formation of local areas in which moisture can collect in the future. In valleys, the use of nails closer than 30 cm from its center is not allowed; for this, the contact points of the underlayment and tiles are coated with mastic to a width of 10-15 cm. The upper parts of the petals of each row are carefully cut at an angle of 60 degrees.

Final stage

At the junctions of walls and chimneys, the tiles are placed on a vertical plane to a height of 20-30 cm, having previously coated the joints with bitumen mastic. Then, at the place where the tile ends, a junction strip is installed on top of it, and all resulting gaps are sealed with heat-resistant silicone sealant. It is advisable to install metal boxes around chimneys and pipes, using basalt-based insulation as an insulator. They significantly improve the hydrophobic properties at the joints, preventing all kinds of leaks in complex areas of the roof.

Aerators are necessary for air circulation in the inter-roof space.

At a distance of a maximum of 50-60 cm from the roof ridge, it is necessary to install aerators, which serve to remove air from the inter-roof space and, thereby, allow for proper air circulation. The number of aerators is selected from the following calculation: one aerator for every 25 square meters roofs. Currently, ridge aerators have also become widely used, which are a structure with an air gap installed directly in the area of ​​the entire length of the ridge. All joints and overlaps around the aerators must be treated with mastic.

It is worth noting that everything installation work the tiles must be carried out at a temperature environment at least 15 degrees, at lower temperatures you should use a hair dryer, heating the tiles in places of kinks. On too sunny and hot days, you need to postpone the installation of the roof, not only for safety own health, but also due to the fact that the tiles begin to melt easily, and when moving across the coating, marks and dents remain, which in the future do not look aesthetically pleasing.