Nowadays the fashion for building bathhouses and residential buildings from natural wood. Log houses have a respectable appearance, are warm and environmentally friendly, which is very much appreciated modern people. But even such reliable and energy-saving buildings should be additionally insulated in order to feel truly comfortable in them in any weather.

Caulking - what kind of operation?

Since ancient times in Rus', most buildings were built from logs. Such buildings have always been called log houses. IN recent years interest in them has increased significantly, due to special operational properties wooden houses and baths. The construction of log houses is offered by many companies these days. And experienced home craftsmen even build cozy homes and hot steam rooms made from logs with your own hands. In this article we will not describe the technology for constructing environmentally friendly buildings, but will talk about how to make them warmer. We will talk about the rules of caulking wooden structures. Without this operation, we will not be able to arrange a truly cozy sauna or residential building.

First, let's figure out why you need to caulk a log house? Everything is simple here. During installation, gaps and voids remain between the logs from which this or that structure is built. It is clear that they cannot be left. After all, through such small, at first glance, gaps, precious heat will escape from the room. Instead of comfortable construction we will get a bathhouse or a house blown by all the winds. Caulking allows you to solve this problem. It is understood as the procedure for carefully sealing all the cracks between logs using special tools and materials. All their varieties will be described below.

Tools for insulating log houses - unusual, but easy to use

You can do caulking of any log house yourself. To do this, you will need to study the technology of the operation and stock up on special tools:

1. 1. Flat spatula made of solid wood or metal. We need to purchase a tool with a blade about 5.5 mm thick and 10 cm wide. This blade, called a flat caulk, is the main device for insulating log buildings.
2. 2. A tool, called a road builder by specialists, triangular in shape with a blade 8–15 mm thick and at least 17 cm wide, along which a special groove is made. This caulk is needed to form smooth rollers from the strands of the sealing material used.
3. 3. The so-called curved caulk - a flat chisel. The thickness of its working part is 5 mm, width is about 5.5 cm. The chisel makes it possible to seal seams on rounded parts and in the corners of a log structure.
4. 4. With a wooden hammer (mallet). With its help, you can easily fill the seal without worrying about it deforming or collapsing. It is also possible to work with ordinary hammers.

In addition, you need to buy two split caulks - narrow and wide. The width of such devices, which visually resemble a wedge, should be approximately 3.5 cm. Breaking tools are necessary to widen narrow cracks. After using them, it is much easier to place the insulating material into gaps and voids.

The working parts of all these tools must be as smooth as possible, and the ends must not be sharp.

A rough surface will not allow the planned work to be completed efficiently, since the insulation fibers will cling to the caulk and be pulled out of the gaps. And too sharp blades will cut the material used for thermal insulation of the log house.

Let us add that there is no need to be afraid of unfamiliar names. Every self-taught craftsman can use the caulking tool.

Materials for caulking – an assortment for every taste

Thermal insulation of log houses is carried out different insulation materials(by the way, they are usually called inter-crown), both traditional and more modern. The most famous material for caulking is moss. It can be white and red. Our ancestors used it when constructing buildings from logs. Moss is an environmentally friendly natural material. It has:

• low thermal conductivity;
• antimicrobial and antiseptic properties;
• resistance to temperature changes (this is especially important if we are insulating a bathhouse);
• durability.

It is almost impossible to purchase moss in construction stores. Therefore, if you plan to use it, you will have to take care of collecting and proper preparation this material. Here you need to know the following. It is advisable to collect moss in November. At this time, there are practically no insects and snails in it. We carefully sort through the collected material, throw away rotten particles, remove debris and lumps of soil. After this, dry the moss. Don't overdo it. Overdried moss cannot be used; it becomes too brittle. It is almost impossible to push it into the cracks between the crowns and place it tightly there.

An alternative to moss is tow. It is made from flax fibers. Such material can be tape (roll) or bale. Experts recommend using the first type of tow. Insulation in the form of tape is easier to push into the seams. And the heat-protective properties of rolled products are higher. Bale tow is cheaper. But it is characterized by hard and short fibers. Working with such material is very inconvenient. The key advantages of tow are that it does not electrify, low thermal conductivity, affordable price, and antibacterial properties. Disadvantages of the material - the insulated seam has an unaesthetic appearance, the installation process is complex and labor-intensive. For these reasons, home craftsmen rarely use tow.

About 10–15 years ago, the insulation of log houses was often done with natural felt. It is environmentally friendly, easy to use, protects the building from street noise and foreign odors, and has increased vapor permeability. But, unfortunately, this material also has two serious disadvantages. Firstly, moths love it very much. She literally chews out the insulation. Secondly, felt is susceptible to rotting.

Jute does not have these disadvantages - it is pliable, soft material in the form of tapes and ropes of different thicknesses. It can be matched to any seam. Jute, according to experts, creates an optimal microclimate in the log house. And most importantly, it is quite simple to install it in the cracks between the logs.

If the log house was built by professionals from ordinary logs or from rounded logs, has a semicircular groove and gaps of small thickness, it can be insulated using sealant. This is the most modern and simplest method of thermal insulation of wooden buildings. The sealant cannot be used in the presence of large gaps and in cases where the grooves of the structure have the shape of a triangle. In such situations, it will be of no use.

We will protect the wooden building from cold and winds ourselves

Caulking of a bathhouse or a residential building made of logs is carried out twice. The first time insulation is carried out directly during the construction of the log house. We need to lay the selected material after installing each crown. If we use insulation in the form of tape, the operation takes place with minimal costs time. We roll out the insulation along the crown and fix it with a construction stapler (staples). If it is necessary to lay additional tape, we mount it on the previous one with a 5-centimeter overlap. Cover installed material the next crown and repeat the procedure.

If you use moss, you will have to tinker a little longer. We take a bunch of dried material (we moisten it if necessary), lay it across the log. The fibers should hang 5-6 cm on each side of the log. Then we lay the second bundle close to the first. The moss layer is quite impressive. The tree should not be visible through it. The thicker the layer, the better the insulation will be.

The second part of caulking is carried out after installing all the crowns of the building and installing the roof on it. Repeated thermal insulation is necessary for any structure, be it a residential building or a bathhouse. The wall insulation scheme looks like this:

1. 1. Take a bunch of tow (moss, felt), apply it to the seam between the logs, and use a caulking blade to press the fibers into the gap. We start work from the end of the building with bottom row.
2. 2. Gently twist the protruding ends of the material. We will get a roller 8–10 cm in length. It should be applied to the gap and pushed back between the logs using caulk, leaving only a small tip.
3. 3. We weave the next bundle of material into the free end and continue to insulate the frame. The roller must not be interrupted. It must remain intact along the entire length of the gap.

It will take a lot of time to complete such a labor-intensive operation. But we will get a well-sealed building. And you can reduce labor costs by using not tow or moss, but tape materials. Installing them is much faster and easier. We simply cut off a piece of tape to the required length and begin hammering it into the seams. After insulating the walls, we begin to insulate the corners of the log house. This operation is also easier to perform with tapes. They are pushed into the gaps with crooked caulk.

Caulking with sealant can be done after complete shrinkage of the structure. The procedure for performing such work is given below:

1. 1. We thoroughly clean the seams between the crowns from debris and dust, wipe them with a dry rag.
2. 2. We treat all joints with a primer (water-based or rubber-based primer) using a sprayer or a regular brush.
3. 3. Wait for the soil to dry.
4. 4. We insert a tourniquet made of polyethylene (foam) into the gaps. We select products that match the width of the seams.
5. 5. Apply sealant.

To give the log house an elegant look, we treat the insulated joints with tinted or colorless varnish.

Caulking a log house is a job that was done by our ancestors. It was in this way that they closed the cracks in their wooden houses. Today there is more modern methods insulation, however, caulking still remains one of the most popular options for sealing seams and joints between logs. Caulking is made using natural materials that breathe along with the wood and do not interfere with the air exchange of the wood. Caulking – difficult work, requiring not only skills and experience, but also great patience. If you want to try your hand, you need to study in detail how to caulk a house made of timber. There are many nuances in this matter, without knowledge of which a good and high-quality caulk will not work. Therefore, let’s take a closer look at how to make caulk.

Caulking is done several times. The first time it is carried out immediately after the construction of the house, the second time the log house is caulked a year and a half after construction. During this time, it goes through a process of shrinkage, new cracks and gaps appear between the logs that need to be closed.

All wooden houses are deformed, perhaps only laminated timber is an exception. Houses made of profiled timber are especially susceptible to deformation natural humidity. During the period of shrinkage, cracks may appear in the wood itself, which will be removed by caulking. Often caulking of a house made of rounded logs and timber is carried out again five to six years after construction.

Primary caulking can be performed at different times:

1. Directly during the construction of a log bathhouse or house. In this case, the insulation is laid between the rows of logs. First, its edges hang evenly on both sides, and then, after the frame is placed under the roof, they are driven into the roof joints.
2. Immediately after the construction of the house. The insulation is applied to the seam and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the beams.

Caulk timber house with your own hands it starts with the lower crowns. First, they caulk the bottom row of logs along the entire perimeter of the house on both sides, then the second, third, and so on until the end. You cannot caulk the house first on one side, and then proceed to the second and subsequent ones. Caulking raises the wall by about 5-10 cm, so if you caulk the bathhouse on one side, you cannot avoid distortion of the entire house.

For caulking, only natural materials are used, which:

• hygroscopic,
• immune to temperature fluctuations;
• breathable;
• environmentally friendly;
• similar in properties to wood.

They have these characteristics:

• tow;
• jute;
• flax wool

Many people ask the question: how to caulk a house made of timber? All the above materials are suitable for caulking both timber and log house, there is no difference.

Moss

Considered one of the the best materials for caulking. It’s not for nothing that our ancestors caulked with moss. Among other things, it has antibacterial properties and protects the wood from pests and mold. However, getting this natural insulation today is very problematic. It is difficult to find it on the open market; of course, you can prepare it yourself, but it is not so easy.

Tow is waste generated after the primary processing of natural fibers of flax, hemp and jute. Its characteristics depend entirely on the properties of the feedstock. The insulation can be pressed into bales or tied into strips. Hard and short fibers are collected into bales, which are not very convenient to work with, roll material softer and more pliable in work.

Tow has mild antibacterial properties. However, this insulation strongly absorbs moisture, which after a few years can negatively affect the wood. After laying, it is necessary to impregnate the tow with special impregnations or paint it with paint to protect it from birds.

Jute

Made from plants growing in China, India, Egypt. Available in the form of ropes, fibers or tapes. The insulation is easy to use, durable, due to large quantity natural resin, mold does not form in it and microorganisms do not appear. Even with high humidity the material remains dry.

Lnovatin

It is a needle-punched fabric produced in rolls. The material is completely ready for use and does not require any preparation. The insulation is made from short fibers of highly purified flax. Linen wool has high heat-saving qualities, is not subject to rotting, and does not accumulate moisture.

Caulking technology

There are two main caulking methods:

1. “Stretched.” The material is pushed into the gap using a special tool, tightly filling it with insulation. The remaining material is wrapped in a roller, which is pushed firmly into the unfilled space between the logs.
2. "Recruiting." This method is used to seal wide cracks and gaps. The material is twisted into strands, which are then folded into loops. The loops are pushed into the holes between the logs and fill the free space with them.

Regardless of the caulking method used, proper caulking always starts with the lowest row of logs. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly caulk a log house.

Stretched caulk

Caulk with fiber insulation

1. Caulking begins from the ends of the bottom row. Take a bunch of moss or tow in your hands and apply it across the fibers to the crack, then press it inward with a caulking blade.
2. The edges of the fibers are rolled into a tight roll, applied to the seam and pushed into the cracks with caulk, leaving the end hanging outside.
3. Take new strands of tow, weave them into the free edge of the roller and repeat the steps in the same sequence. You need to caulk the entire seam tightly and evenly. Therefore, it is very important that the roller is not interrupted and is continuous along its entire length.

Caulking with roll material

When using tape insulation, it is much easier to twist the roller. The material is stretched slightly along the seam, which allows the insulation to be distributed more evenly. The material must be applied to the seam across the fibers; with a longitudinal arrangement, it is impossible to achieve the required density.

1. The tape is unwound from one corner of the log house to the other, without tension, but leaving it to lie freely on the ground.
2. Take the tape by the edge and use caulk to push the middle of the material into the seams between the logs, leaving the edges hanging down by 5-7 cm. Fill the entire seam in this way.
3. Once the entire seam is initially filled, you can cut the tape from the roll.
4. Hammer the remaining material into the gaps between the beams. The caulked seam should be of uniform density and thickness and should protrude approximately 4mm from the grooves.

Caulk "set"

In this way, as a rule, wide cracks are caulked. In this case, more insulation is required, but the quality of insulation is much higher. To do this, use tow, from which long strands are made and wound into a ball. You can trim the log house with jute cords or hemp ropes, which are also used to form balls.

1. Unwind a little cord and fold it into loops, which are alternately pushed into the seam with caulk.
2. The hinges are hammered in with caulking, first from the top of the gap, and then from the bottom.
3. Another strand is placed on top, with which the final compaction is made, then the strand is leveled with a triangular caulk.

To make the work a little easier and fill in the insulation faster, the process can be mechanized. To do this, the log house is caulked using a hammer drill, which is used instead of a traditional tool. But while working, you cannot put too much pressure on the hammer drill, otherwise its blade may get stuck between the logs, and you also need to take a break every 20 minutes. You can also use a pneumatic hammer with a compressor to hammer in the insulation.

To give the seams a neat and beautiful view, on top of the caulking, you can finish the log house with jute rope. The finishing does not insulate the house, but is done purely for decorative purposes. How to attach a rope for finishing a log house? The decorative cord is attached using galvanized nails without heads, which are driven into the upper and lower logs in 20 cm increments.

Sanding and painting the house is done after secondary caulking. How and with what to paint a log house can be read in the article: “How to paint a facade correctly wooden house».

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked after the main caulking is completed. It is more convenient to do this using roll insulation.

1. The edge of the tape is applied to the corner seam and pushed inside using a curved caulk.
2. After securing the material, fold its edges and hammer it tightly into the cracks.
3. During work, move from the top seam to the bottom. In order for the material to lie evenly, it needs to be stretched a little and constantly straightened.

How to check the quality of log caulking? The tightness of internal and external seams can be checked using a chisel or other sharp object that should not pass through the caulk. The insulation should lie tightly, and the caulked seams should look neat and secure.

Self-help errors

Making caulk yourself is not easy. Lack of experience and lack of caulking skills lead to the fact that the work is of insufficient quality.

Typical mistakes that inexperienced professionals make:

1. Using low quality insulation.
2. Incorrect preparation of material for work.
3. Violation of the sequence of work.
4. Caulking the house on only one side, internal or external.
5. The caulking is not around the perimeter of the building, but along the walls.
6. Loose fit of the insulation and its protrusion from the seams.

The caulk will turn out to be of poor quality even if only one mistake is made. It is not easy to become a specialist caulker. Experience in caulking is acquired over years, so it is not surprising that inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which then have to be corrected by professionals.

Services of professional caulkers

Entrust the caulking of your home or bathhouse to qualified specialists who will quickly and efficiently complete all the work. The Master Srubov company employs caulkers with ten years of experience who are well aware of all the intricacies and nuances of caulking. We use high-quality and dried natural materials that meet all requirements. We work under a contract and provide quality guarantees. Our specialists will make caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. Contact us with any in a convenient way according to the coordinates in the section.

In Russia, the fashion for building houses and bathhouses from wood has reappeared. Agree to live in such a house pleasantly and comfortably. The smells of wood warm the soul and bring back pleasant memories from childhood. In order for a wooden house to be warm not only for the soul, but also for the body, everything must be observed technological subtleties construction of log houses and do not forget about wall insulation.

Why is caulking used in the construction of log houses?

Purpose of caulk wooden log house– eliminating gaps between logs. Thanks to the caulk wooden house it becomes warm, and in autumn and winter the walls do not let the cold in. Caulking is also commonly called the material used to fill cracks in logs.

Historical background

The history of the use of caulking of wooden log houses in Russia has deep roots. They built before, especially in villages, mainly from wood, and professional caulkers were always highly valued. After all a true master can, with his own labor, correct construction defects and even eliminate the distortion of the frame. They passed on their skills from father to son. By uniting in artels, caulkers guaranteed the quality of their work, which could only be assessed with the onset of winter cold.

Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house is very heavy physical work. If you decide to do this work yourself, then the success of your work depends on the right choice materials and tools for caulking, and careful adherence to the technology of the entire process.

Caulking a wooden house is done using a hammer weighing 300-400, a 20mm chisel, a caulking shovel and rubber mallet. It is advisable to caulk the log house for the first time six months after assembly. The second time was a year and a half after construction. During this time, the house will shrink. The third time caulking is done after five years, if necessary.

The walls of a wooden frame are sealed in two ways - “set” or “stretched”:

• when caulking “in a set”, strands are made from fibers of the insulating material and wound into a ball, then the cracks are stuffed with these strands; the wider they are, the greater the number of strands stuffed into the groove.
• “stretched” caulk is made in separate strands; after filling the gap between the logs of the log house, a roller is formed from the strands and driven into the groove.

Natural materials used for insulating log walls

To insulate timber in Russia, as in former times, they use hemp, moss, tow, felt, and linen ropes. Their advantage is that they are environmentally friendly materials. Disadvantages: fragility and poor hygroscopicity. Also, insects like to accumulate in natural materials, and this is already dangerous not only for the insulation, but also for the log house itself.

From modern materials Jute insulation is very popular. Jute fiber is imported from China, Kazakhstan and India. The properties of jute - strength and hygroscopicity - distinguish this material from others. At air humidity of 80%, jute remains dry to the touch, absorbing only 20% of moisture.

You should not use jute felt when caulking a wooden house. In addition to jute, felt also contains flax fiber. Jute felt is easy to rot, does not have the required strength and is very attractive to moths.

There is another insulation from natural materials, which is often used for caulking, is flax wool. It is made from waste left over from flax production. In practice, it is compressed flax dust, characterized by strength and rigidity.

Materials and methods of insulating wooden houses used in North America and Scandinavian countries

To begin with, it should be noted that in North America and Scandinavia it is customary to use polyethylene foam materials, which are made from mineral wool and polyethylene foam, to insulate walls along with the insulation materials already listed.

In the Scandinavian countries, log houses are built using more advanced technology than in Russia. The felling of the log house here is carried out in such a way that the logs fit tightly to each other and the gaps between them are minimal. Placed in the gap between the logs mineral wool, and the edges are covered with polyethylene foam cord.

First Settlers North America When building houses from logs, they used clay and adobe to grout the roof joints. It must be said that grouting technology has never been used in Russia. Modern grouts for joints come in two types:

• manufactured using natural materials- these are the same sand, clay, cement, they are water resistant and not elastic enough.
• made from polymer materials– interventional sealants, they are more elastic.

There is a huge selection on sale now various sealants and adobe mixtures for insulation of wooden houses from both domestic and foreign manufacturers.

Now that you know a little more about caulking wooden buildings and if your desire to perform this operation yourself and manually remains in force, be prepared to make every effort and patience to successfully insulate the walls of your wooden house or bathhouse.

When constructing a log house, the insulation between the logs must be laid so that there is a margin of four to five centimeters. Then it will be easier to caulk the insulation, and this method ensures quality work. If this is not done, you will have to put material in the grooves later, which may affect the quality of the thermal insulation.

You need to apply the caulk in a circle and from bottom to top. You cannot first make one wall and then another, this will lead to distortion of the entire structure.

It is advisable to carry out the first caulking six months after the construction of the log house. This way it will already take its place, settle down, and the shortcomings made during construction will be visible, which can be eliminated with the help of caulk.

A good caulk of timber can increase the height of a structure by up to fifteen centimeters; this must be taken into account during construction and re-caulking, which is carried out after a year and a half.

Price for a koropatka depending on several factors:

1. surface area of ​​the log house - height, length and width of the building
2. number of crowns in a log house
3. the material from which the log house is made (rough timber, profiled timber, chopped logs or rounded logs)
4. view corner connections log house

After five years, when the building has finally settled down, inspect the walls and if there are new gaps, caulk them again.

Do-it-yourself caulking video

Due to the labor-intensive nature of the work and the need to patiently and carefully process each seam, it is still best to entrust this procedure to professionals. No matter how much you would like to save on this rather expensive procedure. In any case, we wish you successful construction so that your house will warm you in the winter cold.

Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study caulking methods, and choose the right inter-crown insulation.

Caulking of a log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after construction and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with laying insulation during the process of assembling the walls or performing one-time work upon completion of construction.

1 way

Lay the bottom row of logs on the base.

Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, lay the second crown, and again a layer of insulation. This is repeated until the very top of the log house. After all work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the seal are driven into the gaps between the beams using caulking.

Method 2

Caulking begins after installation roofing system to the log house Insulation (preferably tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are folded in, formed into a roller and hammered inside the seam. Repeat the procedure in the next row and so on until the top of the structure.

The second stage of caulking is carried out after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and driven tightly inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it along the perimeter of the log house.

You cannot caulk one wall first, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the outside. inside to avoid distortions in the structure. The insulation raises the frame by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after construction. During this time, the wood completely shrinks and new gaps form.

There are two ways of caulking - “set” and “stretched”. The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used during primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.

To work, you need tools - a set of caulking tools, a road worker and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make them themselves from hardwood.

Name	Description	What is it used for?
	Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm	The main tool for filling gaps between crowns
	Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm	Used to seal seams in corners and rounded areas of a log house
	The caulk is triangular in shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm	Tool for forming even rollers from twisted strands of compaction
	Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide	Widens narrow gaps, making it easier to fill with insulation
	Wooden hammer	Used for filling the seal with wooden caulks

The caulking blades should not be sharp, otherwise when driving the material they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and be pulled back out of the seams.

Caulking materials

The following materials are used as inter-crown insulation:

• red and white moss;
• tow;
• felt;
• jute;
• flax wool

Type of material	Description
	Environmentally friendly material with antiseptic properties. If you independently procure raw materials, the costs of insulating the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected late autumn when there are no snails in it and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted, lumps of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. There is no need to dry it too much, otherwise the stems will become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to make installation easier. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: difficult to find on the market, requires protection from birds, requires pre-treatment before installation
	Tow is suitable for the initial caulking of a log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality, it is divided into bale and roll (tape). Rolled fiber consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to stuff between the crowns. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Disadvantages: labor-intensive installation, unaesthetic appearance of seams after caulking.
	Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log houses. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and plant fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not allow odors to pass through, provides good noise insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and is environmentally friendly. Cons: susceptible to rotting, easily damaged by moths
	Traditional insulation materials are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is available in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, and also in the form of tape. Tape jute is soft and pliable, compacts evenly, and is used for both primary and repeated caulking. It is more convenient to use jute fibers and ropes after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, not damaged by moths and other insects, does not rot, and provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material cakes quickly, short term services.

Prices for tow

Primary caulking “stretched”

The whole process is divided into two stages - laying insulation between the logs during the construction of a log house and the caulking itself. The insulation is laid after installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.

Take a large bunch of moss and lay it in fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang down on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close together.

The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of equal thickness. The wood should not show through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put too much than not to add, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.

If you use tape insulation, installation is much simpler and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples construction stapler. When the tape runs out, the new piece is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row around the perimeter is covered with insulation, the second crown is installed.

So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, and the walls can be caulked.

The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of a log house

It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then forming a roller out of it is much faster. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which promotes greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not sufficient to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After this, the thickened roller is driven into the gap.

If during the construction process insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It is necessary to apply it to the seams with the fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the required density; the material will not be able to be firmly fixed and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Edges that are too short are difficult to tuck, and therefore the quality of caulking will be poor.

1. The edge of the tape is laid on the ground near the corner of the log house and retreated along the wall, unwinding the roll. The material cannot be pulled, it should simply lie in an even strip on the ground. It is very important that the tape does not twist during the unwinding process. Having reached the second corner, the roll is also left lying, nothing is cut off yet.

   

2. Return to the beginning of the tape, take it by the edge and apply it over the seam. Using a caulking blade, press the tape in the middle, leaving the edges to protrude by 5-7 cm. In this way, the entire inter-crown seam is passed.

   

   Insert insulation into the seam

3. Measure out another 25-30 cm of tape and only then cut it off the roll. This reserve will allow you to hammer the grooves more tightly without adding insulation.
4. Now, little by little, straightening and tucking the edges of the material, they begin to caulk the seam. The tape should completely disappear into the gap between the logs along with the reserve.

   

5. As a rule, one layer of tape is not enough for high-quality filling, so everything will have to be repeated two or even three more times.
6. The finished seam should protrude from the grooves no more than 3-4 mm and be of uniform thickness.

   

Prices for caulk

caulk

If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking is used “in a set”. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow and wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.

Start from the edge of the lower crown:

• clear the gap, removing loose chips and debris;
• unwind a small amount of cord, fold it into loops and push it into the gap with caulk;
• seal the loops first in the upper part of the gap, then in the lower part;
• put another strand on top, now without loops, and straighten it with a road worker.

Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The more densely the voids are clogged, the better insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil the appearance of the wall, and secondly, the seal can be pulled away by birds. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in exactly the same way.

To make the log house decorative, you can hammer a jute cord along the entire length of the seams.

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked separately after the work on the walls is completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.

Since the seams between the logs at the corners have a semicircular shape, you will need a curved caulk.

Step 1. The tape is positioned vertically. Take it by the edge, apply it to the corner seam and press it inward with caulk. They step back down a little and drive the material into the gap again.

Step 2. As soon as the insulation has been secured a little, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and drive them deeper into the cracks.

Step 3. After filling and leveling the top seam, move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened and stretched a little so that it lies more evenly.

This is how the entire corner is sequentially compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy.

Video - How to caulk a corner of a log house

Caulking a log house with sealants

Caulking of log houses with special sealants, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing, is gaining popularity. If the log house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, and jute is laid as insulation between the crowns, you can only use sealant and a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Sealing of seams is carried out no earlier than shrinkage of the log house occurs.

Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris and wiped dry with a rag.

Step 2. A primer primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams using a brush or sprayer. If work is carried out in winter, the primer should be rubber-based, summer time- on the water.

Step 3. After the primer has dried, a rope of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.

Step 4. Apply sealant. They use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The last option is very easy to use: remove the tape from one side protective film, apply to the seam, press with your hand and roll with a roller.

Step 5. After sealing all interventional joints, remove outer layer films so that the sealant hardens. Finally, the joints are coated with colorless varnish or a tinting compound is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.

When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed and the excess should be removed with a damp cloth.

If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps will form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed traditional way, after which the seams are sealed with sealant. After such treatment, there is no need for subsequent caulking.

Video - How to caulk a log house

Wooden houses have many advantages, but all wooden buildings dry out and become deformed over time. Shrinkage occurs not only in log houses, but also in houses made of profiled timber. As a result, between wooden elements(beams or logs) cracks and gaps are formed through which cold comes through. The caulking of a log house allows you to make your home warm and cozy and prevent loss of precious heat. This is a rather specific and complex job, which involves filling the resulting space with special insulating materials. How caulking of a wooden house is done, when it is necessary to do it, what types of caulking exist, we will talk about this in the article.

The first work that is performed immediately after construction is caulking; and sanding the logs, impregnating the wood with antiseptics, and painting the log house are carried out only after caulking. Our ancestors knew what caulk was and why it was needed, because in Russia houses were traditionally built of wood. But even today caulking has not lost its importance. This procedure solves the following problems:

1. When wood dries, cracks and gaps appear in the walls, through which heat escapes, and instead moisture and dampness enter the house. This can cause the development of putrefactive processes in the tree. By caulking you can achieve complete sealing of joints, insulate a wooden structure and prevent rotting.
2. Shrinkage of a wooden house does not always occur evenly. Often one wall shrinks more than the other, which leads to a skew of the entire structure. Caulking the walls allows you to level the structure and give the house the correct shape.
3. Caulked log houses made of logs and gun carriages are much more durable, since special impregnated materials that do not allow water to pass through are used to seal the seams, which significantly extends the service life of the wood.

Caulking is necessary not only for newly built houses; old wooden buildings also need insulation. Caulking an old log house allows you to seal the cracks that have formed in the logs over time, improve the thermal insulation qualities of the house, and renew the wooden structure.

Some people mistakenly believe that caulking is only necessary in a log house, which is subject to severe shrinkage and deformation, and that it is not necessary to caulk a house made of timber, since the material has already been pre-treated. However, this is not the case; caulking of profiled timber is necessary, since it also shrinks, and as a result, cracks and gaps appear that accumulate moisture, which can provoke the formation of mold and mildew.

Many people are concerned about the question: is it necessary to caulk a house made of timber if it will be insulated? Professional craftsmen give a clear answer: of course it is necessary. When dry profile beam deformation occurs, resulting in the formation of large gaps, which, even with external insulation, will let in cold air from the street. The caulking of a log house makes it invulnerable to wind and cold.

The technology for caulking a log house was developed a long time ago, and today it has remained virtually unchanged. Of course, modern industry has made some adjustments to the tools, devices and materials used, but the basic rules for caulking a log house remain the same.

There are two main caulking techniques: stretched and set. In the first method, the insulation is stretched along the log and one end is inserted into the gap using a special tool. Then a roller is formed from the free end of the material, which is used to fill the grooves of the log house. To caulk the cracks using the second method, the insulation is wound into a skein, and loops are made from it to clog the holes. This method is best used when there are large gaps between the logs.

The most weak points In a log house, from the point of view of heat loss, it is the corners. Through them, wind and cold air penetrate into the house. Therefore, the masters give them special attention. Caulking of log house corners is done in different ways depending on the house cutting method.

The greatest difficulty is caused by caulking the corners of the log house into a bowl. There are some nuances here. If the house was built from timber, caulking of the corner joints is done with the same material that was laid in the crowns, so that there are no discrepancies in thickness. It is best to insulate a house made of rounded logs or carriages with jute or linen rope.

How to caulk a log house? This question is far from idle, since the durability and effectiveness of the caulk largely depends on the selected material, which should have certain properties. Since ancient times for insulation wooden structure moss was used. It is still used today for these purposes, but much less frequently, since it is quite expensive material. IN modern construction Most often, caulking of a log house is done with tow, jute or flax. Each material has its own characteristics.

Tow is a coarse flax fiber, but you need to take into account that birds love it very much, so after caulking, the tow will have to be treated against birds. Usually it is treated with a special impregnation, for example, drying oil, which does not change the color of the wood; it can also be painted oil paint. The painted surface is reliable protection from insects. Another option is to secure the tow on top finishing materials: decorative rope or rope.

Jute is made from hemp, the material has good hygroscopicity, and even at very strong humidity will remain practically dry. Therefore, jute is usually used to caulk a bathhouse.

Linen batting is a durable material made from fibers and waste from linen production. It is a wide tape, rolled into rolls in a factory manner. Flax wool has excellent thermal insulation properties, absorbs moisture well and quickly evaporates moisture.

The process of shrinking a wooden house lasts several years, so caulking is carried out in several stages. Rough primary caulking is done immediately after cutting the log house. The building is insulated on both sides (outside and inside) with inter-crown insulation, which is not laid very tightly the first time. First, the external joints are sealed, and only after that it is necessary to caulk the house from the inside. Required condition– caulking is done around the perimeter of the entire house. You cannot caulk one wall and then proceed to the second, third, etc. Caulking raises the original height of the house by about 5-10 cm, so the structure may become distorted.

Repeated caulking is carried out approximately a year and a half after completion of construction. By this time, the structure has almost settled down, so the secondary finishing caulking is done very tightly so that there are no gaps or cracks in the seams between the logs. The last time caulking is carried out is five to six years after construction, when the house has completed its final shrinkage.

In addition to the usual one, there is also decorative caulk, which is performed for purely aesthetic purposes along already caulked seams. Craftsmen finish the log house with rope or decorative rope.

What is the difficulty of self-caulking?

Despite its apparent simplicity, caulking is a job that requires experience and special knowledge. There are many nuances in caulking that are known only to professional caulkers. The work is performed exclusively by hand, so the quality of caulking depends entirely on the skill and professionalism of the performer.

Of course you can buy necessary materials and caulk the house yourself, but lack of experience will certainly affect the final result. Many people wonder: can caulk fall out after heating a log house or carriage? It depends on how well the work is done. If during caulking the technology is violated and the insulation is not sufficiently secured, then it is quite possible that after heating it will fall out.

Birds will quickly carry the caulking done ineptly with tow into their nests. Professional craftsmen insert the material in such a way that birds cannot reach it and pull it out. If the sequence of work is violated, the inter-crown material is incorrectly laid, or insulation of different thicknesses is used, deformation of the structure is possible. In this case, you will have to caulk the house again. As for labor costs, caulking is not an easy job; an amateur will have to put in a lot of effort and spend quite a lot of time to caulk his house.

Professional caulking from the company “Master Srubov”

Insulating a log house and giving it a unique flavor is a job that will be performed at a high quality level by our company’s specialists. The craftsmen have many years of experience and the necessary skills, have specialized education and numerous reviews from grateful clients who appreciated the golden hands of professional caulkers.

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In our work we follow the traditions of old masters and also use modern instruments and equipment, we use proven certified materials, which together allows us to maintain a high quality bar. We will carry out caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. To contact us, visit the page where you will find our details.