To independently install a plastic window in your apartment or house, special skills and special tools no need to possess. Even a self-taught installer can insert it correctly into the opening and secure it with anchor bolts. It is enough to be able to handle building level and a hammer drill. Only the installation must be carried out strictly according to the rules prescribed in GOSTs and manufacturers’ instructions window products from PVC. Otherwise, this transparent structure will not last long.

Required tools and materials

Installation of a plastic window is carried out in five stages:

1. Removing the old window frame.
2. Preparing the opening.
3. Installation and level adjustment of a new frame with sashes.
4. Drain mount with outside windows.
5. Foaming the installation gaps and installing a window sill with slopes.

In addition to a hammer drill and a level, to install a window you will also need a hammer, a screwdriver, a water sprayer, a spatula, metal scissors and a pry bar. From consumables it is necessary to purchase polyurethane foam, silicone, anchor bolts or metal plates with self-tapping dowels and plastic construction wedges (or prepare small pieces of wood).

Required tools for installation

You will also need vapor-permeable self-adhesive and waterproofing tapes. Plus, the PVC window kit should include slopes, a stand profile, a window sill and a metal sill. If all this is available, then you can begin installation.

Window design

Dismantling an old PVC window and preparing the opening

To get rid of an old wooden or plastic window, you need to remove the sashes and make a cut on the side of its frame with a hacksaw. Then, using a pry bar, one of the resulting parts is pulled back and, by hand, pulled out of the wall together with fasteners. Afterwards, the procedure is repeated with all remaining fragments of the deleted window. Then the insulation is removed from the opening (if it is there) and everything that can fall off (for example, mortar).

Design plastic windows in section

As a result, only bare and even ends of the walls made of brick, concrete or wood should remain. If there are chips, cracks or gouges on these surfaces with a depth and size of more than 1 cm, then they must be repaired concrete mortar. There is no special need to align anything here for a new plastic window; anyway, then the small cracks and depressions will be filled polyurethane foam. However, it is not worth leaving deep noticeable defects without repair.

Possible errors with measurements

Before you continue to work and install a plastic window with your own hands, you need to remove dirt, dust and oil stains from the surfaces in the opening. If you have to install a window structure in winter, then you also need to remove snow and frost, and then warm up the ends of the wall construction hairdryer to remove moisture.

Window installation

Installation of PVC windows with fixation in the opening can be done in two ways:

1. Anchor bolts through the frame profile.
2. Plates secured to the side of the frame with self-tapping dowels.

The first option is more reliable. However, with this technology for installing plastic windows, the frame profile turns out to be drilled through. As a result, its thermal insulation efficiency decreases. If a window unit needs to be installed in a building erected in a region with a cold climate, then it would be best to abandon this method.

The second option for fastening plastic windows is considered less reliable and is not recommended in the presence of strong wind loads. But in winter, the heat will definitely not escape from the house through the holes in the profile into the street.

Installation of windows with different options slope

Holes for fastening PVC windows are drilled in the wall with a distance of 15–25 cm from the corners of the opening. Plus one or two more holes on the sides, bottom and top are made in the middle with a step of no more than 70 cm between them.

The new window is directly positioned in the opening using a support profile and adjusting wedges. Plus, you will need to glue a vapor-permeable gasket (PSUL) around the outer side of the frame in advance. And you should not tighten the bolts or screws all the way immediately after leveling the structure in the opening using a level. First, you also need to secure the ebb and flow to drain rainwater and waterproofing.

How to position the window frame correctly

Drainage

The next step in installing a plastic window with your own hands is to attach the drainage system. It must be installed in any situation. Without this external element of the window unit, all the rain water will fall onto the foam and under the frame. The inevitable result will be destruction assembly seam and the formation of gaps between the profile and the wall.
The ebb is fastened with self-tapping screws not to the window itself, but to the stand profile under the frame. In this case, the waterproofing tape is first laid. And then a drainage system is placed on top of it and fixed in place. Then foam is sprayed under this metal strip.

How to position the drain correctly

Assembling a plastic window

Before installing a plastic window into an opening, all opening sashes must be removed from it so that they do not interfere with the installation work. Plus, the double-glazed window from the blind part of the structure is also removed. To do this, you need to pry up the plastic beads with a spatula and knock them out of the groove.

Reinstallation of sashes and double-glazed windows in plastic windows is carried out before foaming the gaps around the frame. If they are not put back in place, then the foam cannot be blown out. After spraying, polyurethane foam expands 1.5–2 times. Moreover, this happens with the creation of quite strong pressure on the frame profile. It can easily be bent so that later it is simply impossible to insert the sashes back.

Window sill installation

Installing a window sill on a window largely follows the same technology as installing a drainage system. Only instead of a waterproofing tape, a vapor barrier is used indoors. If the waterproofing on the outside prevents moisture from entering the assembly seam, then the vapor barrier on the inside is designed to evaporate it into the house.

Installation of windows with and without waterproofing

The foam in the gap should not get wet or freeze; this will instantly destroy it. The window sill is laid on wooden guide supports located perpendicular to the window and along its entire length in steps of 30–40 cm. In this case, an inward slope of 2–3 degrees must be maintained. This is necessary so that the resulting condensate drains from the window sill and does not stagnate in the corners.

Waterproofing joints

After alignment and alignment of the window sill, it is inserted with pressure under the lower edge of the frame. Then the gap is foamed from below and a weight is placed on top of the plastic plate. Once the foam has hardened, it is securely fixed in place.

How to install a new plastic window with your own hands? This task, for a person with minimal construction skills and desire, is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Plastic windows differ from the bulky frames used previously in their lightness and simplicity. installation work. Despite the increased functional features, any person who has at hand can insert a window system construction tool and one assistant.

Does it make sense to install a plastic window yourself?

The nuances of this process require preliminary familiarization; they will help prevent annoying misunderstandings:

1. You need to be very careful when removing the old window. If you act roughly, there is a high probability of destruction of the opening, which will require additional costs effort, finances and time to restore it.
2. Be sure to clean workplace from dust generated during the working process. If this rule is not followed, the foam will not tightly close the cracks, which will cause the formation of condensation (and subsequently mold) and the appearance of drafts.
3. Be sure to prime the slopes, which is not always done. This process will allow the foam to cling to every pore of the wall, which will prevent even the slightest cracks from forming.
4. Be sure to cover the entire opening with self-adhesive waterproofing tape. This recommendation is given by manufacturers because it perfectly protects the walls, preventing the insulation from coming into contact with moisture.

How to install a plastic window yourself: installing a new window frame

Mounting frames into an existing frame, just like installing a plastic window yourself, is not too labor-intensive if you follow safety rules. The sashes and glass must first be removed from the frame.

It is important to correctly align the frame in relation to the opening, focusing on the level and organizing reliable fixation.

We install the frame this way:

• free the frame from components that may break;
• place in the opening using wedges and pads, clearly focusing on the level;
• align vertically, fix in the opening;
• one person holds the structure, the other takes into account the level by applying the top edge to the opening;
• both upper edges are attached, then the bottom of the frame;
• The components are fixed using anchor-type screws or fastening plates.

Important! It is necessary to ensure the placement of the frame in relation to the edge of the wall, despite the fact that this fact does not affect functionality in any way, appearance, also matters.

Final assembly of the window unit: sequence of work

Installing metal-plastic windows with your own hands allows you to save a considerable amount of money on this not too complicated job. After installing the box, placing and fixing the frame, you need to deal with the double-glazed windows.

Sequence of work:

• The profile located below should be equipped with compensating gaskets: to ensure the correct temperature level (between the glass and the frame). This factor allows you to extend the service life of the entire structure;
• place the plates on the right and left of the frame;
• place the glass unit on the frame, leaving equal gaps between the left and right sides of the frame and the glass unit itself;
• install glazing beads: start with the top element, it will hold the glass. Then you can go in order in any convenient direction. Beads are driven in using a special rubber mallet into the grooves.

Do-it-yourself window installation is completed by installing the sashes. This work is carried out in the opposite order to the procedure for removing them before starting all work.

1. Place the sash on the pin located at the bottom.
2. Tilt the sash slightly until it connects with the top hinge.
3. Place the pin using a pointer and a hammer.
4. Place an overlay on the top hinge that performs decorative functions.

Now you need to treat all remaining free spaces with polyurethane foam. In order for the foam to adhere well and last a long time, the surface of the work should be moistened with water. High humidity allows polyurethane sealant to polymerize quickly and very efficiently. Foaming of the window occurs along the entire perimeter, with equal strength. After the foam has dried, the ebb and window sill are installed.

This is the entire assembly process window system. As you can see, with minimal skill, you can handle it yourself, without the involvement of professionals.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: preparation of the window block and installation process, installation of the window sill

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: preparation of the window block and installation process, installation of the window sill

Plastic windows are currently quite popular. And this is due, first of all, to the fact that they have a number of advantages over traditional options: they have a longer service life, perfectly protect against street noise, cold, sun rays, besides very convenient and practical.

Classmates

Installation is carried out, as a rule, by experienced specialists who know all the intricacies of the process and have practical experience. However, it is not always possible to use their services, and you have to learn how to do the installation yourself. This work is not difficult and takes place in several stages.

Required materials and tools

To remove the old window and install a new one, we need:

• Screwdriver;
• Nail crowbar;
• Hacksaw;
• Dowels, self-tapping screws;
• Stationery knife;
• Screwdriver - slotted;
• Hammer and chisel;
• Roulette, level;
• Polyurethane foam.

Preparatory work

Before you start installing windows with your own hands, you must first clear the space around the window, cover the heating radiators and the floor with film, take accurate measurements of the window opening, remove the old structures and then contact the selected company to order. Determining the size of a window is a very responsible procedure, which is best entrusted to a field specialist - a measurer.

Remove the old window

Removing the old window

It is quite difficult to remove an unnecessary structure without destroying the frame. Most often, only the valves remain intact. The first thing is to open them and then, lifting them, remove them from the awnings or tear them out with the holding screws. If the windows are very old and the sashes are “stuck”, so to speak, for safety it is recommended to remove the glazing beads and glass from them in advance.

Using a grinder or a hand saw you need to cut old frame in several places, after which it can be easily removed using a crowbar, nail puller, hammer drill and other tools. Next, remove the outer metal flashing.

The window sill board is dismantled in the same way as the frame: first it is sawn, pryed up and then removed in parts using available tools.

A window sill made from is a little more difficult to remove; you won’t be able to remove it whole. You can break it with a jackhammer or hammer drill. However, if it looks decent, it can simply be restored.

All these work processes are the dirtiest, so window openings are well cleaned of debris, dirt, unnecessary paint, insulation, and dust. The surface must be primed.

Preparing the window block

Before installing windows, metal-plastic structures are pre-prepared.

If you install a plastic window yourself without unpacking the glass unit, then close it and install it closed. Otherwise, there is a possibility of deformation.

After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it cannot be opened. To avoid accidental opening when the foam has not yet hardened, it is recommended not to immediately screw the handles to it. It is also advised not to remove the film that covers the window until the installation and finishing of the slopes is complete. It will protect it from foam, which, after hardening, can easily be removed along with the tape.

Prepare the opening

Features of installing a plastic window with your own hands

When everything is done preparatory work, begin to proceed directly to installing the window.

• First of all, the windows are prepared, fastening elements are screwed to the frame from the side and top with screws - the so-called special anchors (plates), which will subsequently hold the entire structure. Previously, after the structure has been leveled, substrates are laid on the lower end of the window opening.
• Next, the frame is placed and secured in the opening on the sides with wooden pegs, which are prepared in advance. They are driven between the wall and the window. This stage of work is the most critical. Using water and wedges, the frame is set strictly both vertically and horizontally. After the window is leveled, the frame is rigidly fixed in the opening with anchor plates.
• The gaps that form between the window and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam). Before performing this work, the surface of the seam must be moistened with water, which will allow the foam to adhere to the wall structure as much as possible. If windows are installed in winter period When the air temperature drops to 5 degrees, winter or demi-season polyurethane foam is used. When it dries and hardens, the excess is cut off with a knife.
• After completing the installation of a plastic window with your own hands, if necessary, you need to adjust the window fittings (the tightness of closing the window sashes and doors) and install a mosquito net.

It is very important to remember that the structure must be sufficiently secure and firmly fixed to the walls, and there should also be no cracks or gaps in it. After installation, it is imperative to plaster the foam both inside and outside the room. Some people forget about finishing and endanger double-glazed windows, since after some time the foam can settle, causing the window to simply fall out.

Secure the window

Window sill installation

Before installing the window sill, first measure and trim the excess length from the edges in such a way that it can fit into the window opening and go slightly under the window frame. A grinder is perfect for this, electric jigsaw or a regular hacksaw. Next, using a level, set the slope away from the window to drain condensate, substituting prepared wooden blocks, bricks or other materials. If, after leveling, a gap forms between the opening and the window sill, this space is blown with foam or filled with mortar. It is attached to window frame self-tapping screws. It is very important not to forget to glue the side plastic plugs with superglue.

Installation of plastic slopes and ebbs

Slopes are made only after installing the window sill, and it is advisable to do them no later than 3 days after installing the window. This type of work is not difficult to do on your own. Before installing them, remove excess foam from all sides of the frame with a knife, after which the PVC panels are cut off required length and mounted on polyurethane foam. Plastic slopes have quite a few advantages over standard plaster - the work is less dirty, and the slopes turn out beautiful, even and smooth. They do not require painting or complex care. When manufactured correctly, the thermal insulation of the window increases significantly.

Installation of the drainage system is very easy. First, it is inserted into a special groove made under the window, then it is carefully aligned, pressed, attached and additionally foamed.

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More recently, in the glazing of residential buildings and industrial buildings, exclusively wooden window frames were used. Today, many consider them relics of the past and are in a hurry to replace them with modern metal-plastic structures. After all, in addition to high performance characteristics, they are much cheaper than wooden frames. To install plastic windows with your own hands, you don’t need to have superpowers. Almost any person who can hold a tool in their hands can cope with such a task.

However, do not forget that each job requires certain skills and craftsmanship. Lack of experience in installing windows can lead to a number of troubles. These are systematic breakdowns, loose fit and high throughput street air into the apartment.

To avoid the above points, in this article we will provide step by step instructions, which will help you install your windows correctly and efficiently. If you still decide to trust professionals, know that some of them are not really professionals, and for a number of reasons they openly neglect certain stages of proper installation (some save time, others save money). Having an idea of ​​the work being carried out, you can easily exercise independent control over the entire process. And subsequently you will enjoy the high-quality operation of your windows, which will bring joy to all family members.

The main stages of installing new windows:

• taking measurements;
• dismantling old windows;
• preparing openings;
• installation of a metal-plastic structure.

Not everyone knows that the manufacturer gives absolutely no guarantee for its services when installing windows. on our own. Therefore, if various troubles arise during the installation process, you should not hope for a return or replacement. All metal-plastic structures are manufactured strictly according to pre-agreed dimensions. If you make a mistake, the window may not fit in the opening or may end up being much smaller. And it will only be your fault. The company's employees are solely responsible for the implementation of each stage of product installation.

Also, any inaccuracy made when installing a metal-plastic window will deprive you and your loved ones of all advantages modern design and expected level of comfort.

Window measurements

When taking the necessary measurements, you need to pay attention to the fact that window openings exist with and without a quarter. Accordingly, their formulas for calculating sizes are different.

For the first case, we must measure the width of the opening between the existing quarters, this is done at the narrowest point. And then add 3-4 cm to the resulting figures - this will be the width of our plastic frame. In addition, it is important to check: the most long distance between vertical quarters should not exceed the design width of the block.

The height is determined by measuring between the upper quarter and the lower surface of the window opening.

If the window opening is without a quarter, the required values ​​can be obtained by subtracting 5 cm from the vertical dimension (to place a window sill) and 3 cm from the horizontal dimension.

When determining the size of the window sill and ebb, it is worth considering the following details:

1. Often the size of a window sill is chosen based on its functionality. He must cover heating batteries and indoor flowers should be placed on it;
2. The length of the window sill is taken to be 8-10 cm longer than the window opening, its edges should be recessed into the cavity of the slope by approximately 4-5 cm;
3. The dimensions of the ebb are calculated taking into account the planned insulation. It is recommended to leave it protruding 5-10 cm from the wall.

Features of measuring balcony windows

When calculating the width of balcony windows, the length of the parapet is taken as a basis; the entire structure will rest on it. Also, on both sides it is necessary to subtract 6-7 cm, which will be needed for installation corner profile, with the help of it they connect window blocks front and side parts. The distance from the roof to the railing, with the exception of the difference of 2.5-3 cm, which is important to set aside for gaps for fastening, will be the height.

Regarding the side balcony frames, their dimensions are determined in the same way. The only thing is that you need to subtract 6-7 cm from the width to install the corner profile, as well as 2.5-3 cm for the gap from the wall to the window.

Features of window measurements in private houses and old buildings

When taking measurements of windows in private houses and old buildings, it is recommended to first knock off part of the slopes on both sides (in the measurement areas). This is done in order to see what the space occupied by the window opening is like. It often happens that there are dilapidated cement mortar and various insulation materials that can crumble during the dismantling of an existing window. On a positive note here is what's new plastic construction it will be possible to increase it somewhat by expanding the cleaned window opening.

Ordering a metal-plastic window

Before contacting a company with an order, you should think about what type of double-glazed window is right for you. It can be one-, two- or three-chamber. As for fittings and fasteners, you can also choose them yourself.

WITH technical characteristics The manufacturer's consultants will help you figure out which plastic windows will be preferable for your home at the time of ordering.

Some important points during installation

When installing windows yourself, you should pay attention to the following:

• the metal-plastic structure must be well secured;
• the mounting foam used to fix the windows must be plastered on both sides (this will prevent it from sagging and deforming the frame in the future);
• It is very important to align the structure vertically and horizontally using a level (this will help avoid warping).

How to install metal-plastic windows with your own hands

Before starting installation, prepare everything you need for work:

1. Window frame with fasteners;
2. Construction level;
3. Polyurethane foam;
4. Mount;
5. Bulgarian;
6. Windowsill.

The process of preparing a window block

Window preparation is important stage installation work that you do yourself. If necessary, the double-glazed windows and hinged sashes themselves are dismantled from the window structure. To release the double-glazed window, a chisel is used; you need to use it very carefully to pick out the glazing bead (fastening) and after a light blow on the tool it will come out of the grooves. Then the vertical fasteners are removed, top and bottom. The released beads will need to be marked; sometimes their sizes can differ significantly, which will lead to the formation of gaps of several millimeters. The glass unit will come out of the grooves on its own if you tilt the frame a little. Gently lean it against the wall, creating a slight angle.

Decorative plugs also need to be removed from the swing doors, then unscrew the clamping bolts. If there is a transom opening system, release the top of the sash by turning the handle to the center and remove the hook from below.

Ultimately, you should end up with a free frame, on which there are only lintels separating and reinforcing the sashes. On inner surface Holes are cut along the contour of the plastic frame for fastening anchors. The minimum number of such holes should be three for the sides, two for the lower and upper ends. For drilling, use metal drills, because the window is made of metal and plastic, and inside it has a metal inclusion for strength characteristics.

To fix the frame, it is preferable to take anchors with a diameter of 0.8-1 cm and metal drills of the same size.

Detailed instructions for installing windows

Finally, some tips for installation:

Comfort and coziness for you and your loved ones with new windows installed by yourself!

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.

An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.

He decided to build his own country house, to occupy oneself, so to speak, after retirement, and prepares an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. Threw it for him short plan actions, but decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.

Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation plastic windows.

Technology and procedure for installing plastic windows with your own hands

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Removal of old windows (if replacement is being carried out).
2. Preparing a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Attaching fasteners to the window frame.
5. Creating recesses in the wall where fasteners are attached.
6. Inserting and aligning a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
7. Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners at the holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling with mounting foam) the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Installation of slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Installation of ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.

It's as easy as shelling pears: place the profile in in the right place, align horizontally and foam.

But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much left at the top free space, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second one at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you are inserting a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After this, in future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch holes under the entire fastener plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Pay attention!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you are installing a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with regular mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.

If after leveling there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having first removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Useful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees) so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two for the height of the opening, the third for the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this purpose, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebb tides on plastic windows

The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted, mosquito net. Window adjustment is separate topic, which will be discussed in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.

Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will look in detail at the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.

At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - stages:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window, with and without unpacking.
2. Fastening elements - types of fastening elements, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what should be placed where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Installation of low tide - diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
6. Assembling the window - we assemble the window after unpacking.
7. Installing a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installation of slopes - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step, diagram.

Today there are two methods of installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The installation method with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the glass unit:

- remove glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.

Because this particular one is more labor-intensive but more safe method(For plastic double glazed windows) installation we chose to write the article and of course it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.

Useful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.

If you carry out this process without unpacking, then removing the glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.

If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, it is necessary to insert them into the seam between the glazing bead and window frame insert a small spatula and carefully tap the mallet ( wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.

We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, you need to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, or even better, lean the double-glazed window(s) against the wall; if there are several of them, then lay a layer of a soft, clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling the opening sash must begin with dismantling the top hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it down accordingly.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.

After this, the sash will be freed from the second lower hinge. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fastening elements.

Fastening elements, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between bolts being 700 mm and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).

Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.

Types of fastening.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening using a concrete screw.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing plastic PVC windows With our own hands, according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fastenings, where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• Shell brick – 60 mm
• blocks of porous natural stone – 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If outer contour make the seam as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when installing assembly seams, it is always necessary to observe the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and load-bearing wall less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, like diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame; they are designed to protect the mounting foam from the effects of the external environment, as well as to allow moisture to escape from the mounting seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.

Preparing the opening.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window block is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.

These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

For leveling, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.

After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.

After that in drilled holes It is necessary to insert the anchor bolts, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.

After everything anchors were installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Low tide installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if, of course, it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.

Pay attention!

Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material- for example brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have installed the window frame and ebb all external works After installing the PVC windows with your own hands, you are finished and you can return the sash and double-glazed windows.

First, we install the double-glazed window.

To do this, insert the glass unit into installed frame, it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the beads onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).

Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.

Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.

Useful advice!

The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable for there to be a gap between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.

After this we attach the U-shaped starting profile on the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile, it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; the slopes will be placed in these grooves. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps top part windows.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics

- with four chamber window profile
- and double-glazed windows
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.

A general expenses amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).

For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window.

We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3 centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically.

You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.

In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose usable area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, screws, sealing tape PSUL, polyurethane foam, window sills and sills for a total amount of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Pay attention!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.

The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.

Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.

Useful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal frame inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. His geometric dimensions ideal, and the base perfectly matches the horizon level.

This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.

Pay attention!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.

Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.

I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.

3 on each side, except the bottom.

Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.

Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation.

Useful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.

Useful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and needs to be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.

Pay attention!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.