I recently told. Now I would like to talk about the wall.

Now it is probably impossible to find a house in which there would not be watches made in China or India. Wall Clock- this is such an element of home comfort, which practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.

And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, and the watch either stops working, or hurries, lags behind, or, which is typical for smooth-running mechanisms, begins to literally “eat up” the batteries.

Throwing away such a watch is a pity, especially if they had a high purchase price or they are expensive as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to repair the wall clock with your own hands and replace the mechanism.

In the given example, we will replace the movement by rearranging it from another (new, but savagely broken) watch.

By the way, at any time point you can buy such a watch literally for a penny. At the same time, the advantage is that if the arrows from the "native" clock do not fit in diameter, you can easily install the arrows from the broken ones.

We unscrew the bolts of the mounting plate that holds the glass.

In this article, we will look at: general clock malfunctions, malfunctions of quartz, electronic and wall clocks, as well as causes their occurrence and possible remedies.

Experts identify several types clock malfunctions: wall, quartz, electronic, depending on the type of construction. What all these different mechanisms have in common is that malfunctions of the clock lead to incorrect time display.

For example, for mechanical devices, a lag of no more than 20 seconds and a rush of no more than 40 seconds per day are allowed. Anything that goes beyond the specified values ​​is considered a malfunction.

For other types malfunctions deviations in other limits are considered. The most common cause of clock failure is:

• clockwork contamination
• penetration of moisture
• or drying out of the lubricant.

This can lead not only to an incorrect time display, but also to the failure of the entire device, stopping the hour, minute and second hands. To eliminate the malfunction of the clock, you can contact the service center, watch workshop or try to repair it yourself.

For DIY watch repair you will have to acquire special equipment and tools (possibly home-made). Understand the clock mechanism. Complicated watch malfunctions, or malfunctions of expensive devices, are best left to professional watchmakers to fix.

Quartz watch malfunctions

Quartz watch malfunctions usually provoked by the failure of the microcircuit that sends pulses to the generator. As a rule, it just burns out. Generators themselves break rarely, and usually this indicates a strong impact.

The quartz crystal is almost eternal, the gears are also very strong and durable. The problem with troubleshooting quartz watches is that each model requires an original microcircuit, which is not so easy to get.

There are no problems with finding generators, and they cost mere pennies. However, keep in mind that the performance of the entire watch mechanism depends on its own performance. And one low-quality element can render the entire device unusable.

Wall clock malfunctions

Wall clock malfunctions There are two types, depending on whether they are quartz or mechanical. Troubleshooting a wall clock is easier than a wrist clock because of the larger size and the need for larger tools. For example, there is no need for a microscope and magnifying glasses at all.

Electronic clock malfunctions

Electronic clock malfunctions often associated with battery discharge, or damage to the liquid crystal matrix. Also, often the cause of a malfunction of an electronic clock is the failure of the microcircuit.

The clock from the Soviet times broke down, or rather the mechanism of the wall clock itself. I don't want to throw away the clock for my own reasons. Perhaps they fit the interior and there is no way to buy the same ones, or the clock is important as a gift for a long memory, but buying new ones is expensive or you don’t want to. In general, it will be faster and cheaper to completely replace a broken clockwork (which keeps time) than trying to fix it.

Then I decided to look for a clock mechanism for sale separately.
For some reason it seemed to me that the clock mechanism was expensive and made up a large
part of the cost of the watch. It turned out that the watch mechanism can be bought in bulk from 60
rubles! True, it is with a discrete course and noisy. Moreover, these mechanisms
standardized and have the same mounting dimensions. Find a store that
I would sell the watch mechanisms I needed at retail, it turned out to be difficult. IN
in the end, for 150 rubles I bought a silent mechanism with floating fur in the Bangood store Coupon(12% off) Code: BGHome

The old mechanism worked for 20 years.

New silent clock mechanism.

s, everything I put it in the old watch case, everything fit fine and the hands also came up, except for the second in my case.You can change the mechanism yourself, since now the repair of wall clocks has become very simple and cheap. I bought it, unscrewed the old one, put the new one in, and you're done.

Arrows packed in a separate bag

The task is to remove the old mechanism from the watch case. Then install the new mechanism. After that, install the arrows on the axis of the mechanism: the first is the hour, the second is the minute, the last is the second.

.

This mechanism is very quiet and takes several steps in a second. I am writing after a couple of months - it works perfectly, does not run away, does not knock, and does not interfere with sleep at night.

If your quartz wall clock is brokenor tired of their loud ticking, the cheapest way to get workingsilent clock is to buy a separate clock mechanism and install it yourselfhim to the old building.You can also create on the basis of the clockwork

An antique chiming wall clock is the quintessence of precision mechanics and aesthetic pleasure. The loud ticking of the clock fills the house with comfort and warmth. But sometimes the ticking suddenly stops. It happens that this is due to wear or breakage of the mechanism. But much more often it is a matter of banal pollution and thickened grease. A skilled person is quite capable of solving the problem with his own hands ...

Kienzle chiming wall clocks are very common in Russia. Before the First World War, German watches were officially imported in fair quantities, and after the Great Patriotic War, soldiers returning from Germany often brought trophy precision mechanics with them.

It is probably impossible to trace the history of these particular watches. At least, they have been in our family for more than half a century, and what happened before that is hidden in the depths of years. But there are some things you can install. Kienzle has used several logos to brand the wall clock mechanisms. The movement of this watch bears the mark Flügelrad (winged wheel).

It was such a brand - with a wheel in the form of a dial without hands and with the inscription Kienzle - that was registered in 1898 and was used until 1922, when a watch with arrows appeared on the logo instead of an hour dial, and the wings became simpler and more graphic.

The inscription D.R.PATENT means Deutsches Reich Patent - a patent of the German Empire and, in relation to watches, was usually used together with the number 147023. This is E. Schlenkler's patent for a striking mechanism with a counting wheel placed on the front plate.

There is no patent number 147023 on the mechanism, but if you look closely at the shape of the levers of the battle mechanism and the location of the wheels, the design is one to one.

Mechanisms according to patent 147023 were produced by Kienzle from 1902 to 1914, which does not contradict the stigma. The remaining designations 43 cm / 104 are purely technical information - the length of the pendulum suspension (43 cm) and the number of strokes per minute (104).

Thus, we can conclude that the watch was made between 1902 and 1914. The watch is most likely original, since the glass of the case door has a facet (wide chamfer along the edge), and there are two stickers in German on the back of the case. One is almost destroyed and unreadable, but the second is completely preserved.

The inscription "Diese Schraube mit Messing-kopf ist vor Ingangsetzen der Uhr zu entfernen" was interpreted by Google Translate as "This bronze head screw must be removed before starting the watch." The screw, by the way, is left in place, since without it the clock strike becomes soft and quiet, like a cabinet. And now it is a powerful and booming, almost bell-like sound. As far as I understand, there is nothing wrong with that, it's just that Rundgong turned into Tonfeder, both designs are widely used in striking watches.

How is a wall clock with a fight arranged?

Washing and cleaning wall clocks is usually carried out with a complete disassembly of the clock mechanism. And before such a responsible operation, it is worth getting acquainted with the device of the watch, so as not to accidentally screw something up.

In this case, there is a pendulum spring clock mechanism with the strike of hours and half hours.

The device itself is quite simple, but it is difficult to figure it out from the photo. The scheme given in the book by V.V. will help. Troyanovsky "Repair of watches", released in 1961.

Almost all parts of the movement mechanism are placed between two plates - the front and back plates 2. The front plate is considered to be from the side of the dial (in the diagram on the right).

The energy source is a spring located in the drum 1. From the drum, rotation is transmitted to the additional wheel 3, the central wheel 4, the intermediate wheel 7 and the escape wheel 8.

The escape wheel teeth have a special shape that allows it to interact with the anchor 9 bracket. The movement of the bracket through the fork-leash 6 is controlled by a pendulum (not shown in the diagram) placed on a suspension 5. The suspension is fixed on part 10 with the wonderful name “pendelfeder”, which, however, in German means only “pendulum spring”.

On the protruding axis of the central wheel there is a pointer gear - a minute tribe 11, a bill of exchange wheel 12 and an hour wheel 13 coaxial with the minute wheel. The minute and hour hands are mounted on the axis of the minute and hour wheels, respectively.

Under the minute tribe, on the same axis, there is a two-pronged cam that connects the running gear with the chime mechanism. The double-toothed cam rotates together with the minute hand and starts the clock strike twice an hour.

The wheel mechanism of the fight is also located between the platinum plates and includes: a spring in the drum 1, an additional wheel 2 with a program wheel located on the same axis, a lifting wheel 3 carrying lifting stars for the hammers on its axis, the first locking wheel 4, the second locking wheel 5 with pin, speed controller ("windmill") 6.

All the automatic mechanism of the battle is located in front of the front plate immediately behind the dial.

The mechanism includes a two-pronged cam of the minute axis 1, a lifting lever 2, which forms a single part with the locking lever 3, which raises the unlocking lever 4, which rests with a pin on the cam 6. Also, the locking lever 3, when raised, holds the wheel pin 5 (the second locking wheel). The release lever is rigidly connected to the reading lever 7, which interacts with the program wheel 8.

The operation of the combat mechanism consists of the stages of preparation for combat and combat itself. Preparation for the fight takes place 3-10 minutes (depending on the shape of the cam 1) before the time of the fight. In this case, the cam 1 gradually raises the levers 2 and 3, and through them the levers 4 and 7 until the pin of the release lever 4 disengages from the protrusion of the cam 6. The mechanism of the battle rotates until the pin of the wheel 5 engages with the protrusion of the raised lock lever 3. Wheel 5 has time to make about half a turn. The mechanism is ready for battle.

With further rotation of the cam, lever 2 falls off the cam tooth, the part rotates, and the locking lever 3 releases the stop wheel pin 5. The system starts to work, the lifting wheel lifts the hammers and drops them onto the tonfeder (spiral gong).

For one revolution of the cam 6, one blow of the hammers passes. Further operation of the mechanism depends on the position of the program wheel. If the reading lever 7 is located above the slot of the program wheel 8, then the pin of the release lever, sliding along the profile of the cam 6, will rest against the cam ledge and stop the mechanism. That's how half an hour goes by.

If the reading lever is located above the protrusion of the program wheel, then the lever will not be able to lower, the pin of the release lever 4 will not rest against the protrusion of the cam. The cam will make one more turn, and the hammers will make another blow. And so on until the reading arm falls into the next slot of the program wheel. The number of strokes depends on the distance between the two notches. The program wheel makes one revolution in 12 hours - a full cycle of the battle mechanism.

What tools will be needed for the job?

Unlike wristwatches, wall clock parts are much larger and more durable, so no special “watch” tool is needed. However, it would be nice to have:

• tweezers (1-2 pieces)
• small pliers, pliers, or appropriately sized wrench
• hard brush (toothbrush with short bristles)
• desktop vise or some kind of device for fixing the mechanism in a position convenient for work

How to disassemble a wall clock?

When disassembling the clock, first of all, the pendulum is removed so as not to damage the pendelfeder spring. The pendulum most often just hangs on hooks. After that, two screws or screws securing the mechanism are unscrewed and pulled out of the case.

Further disassembly can be carried out on the table. First remove the arrows. Usually they are fastened with a steel pin, but here someone replaced the pin with a piece of copper wire.

The pin or wire is removed. Then the arrows are removed. The minute one sits freely on a square axis, but the hour one sits on a round one and is held by friction. When removing the hour hand, you need to hold the hollow hour axis with something, otherwise you can damage the hour gear.

After that, remove the dial. It is held by four pins that can be easily removed with pliers.

Now you have access to the mechanisms under the dial and you can lower the mainsprings.

The spring is held through the ratchet wheel 1 by the pawl 3, which is pressed by a flat spring 2. To lower the spring, put on the crown on the square end of the axle and, retracting the pawl with tweezers, carefully open the spring. It is better to do this with two people half a turn at a time, since the spring is very powerful. The second spring is released in the same way.

Now it's the turn to remove all attachments. These include: the suspension of the pendulum with a pendelfeder, the levers of the battle mechanism, the watch and bill wheels. All these parts are fastened with pins.

They also unscrew the two screws and remove the clamping bars with the ratchet wheels of the winding drums. Ratchet wheels are similar in appearance, but not interchangeable, it is important not to confuse them.

Now you can loosen the fixing nuts on the side of one of the plates and carefully separate them. The mechanism turns into a pile of separate parts.

Spring drums must be marked so as not to be confused. Despite the fact that they look exactly the same, the spring in the battle drum is stronger. It was not possible to remove the program wheel from the axis without applying excessive efforts, the battle drum remained in place, so it would not be possible to confuse them. The axis of the central wheel with the minute tribe also remained in place.

How to clean wall clock parts?

After disassembly, an audit of the condition of the parts is carried out. In case of wear or damage, repair is carried out. A description of how to repair wall clock parts is beyond the scope of this article. Let me just say that if you have the desire and the appropriate equipment, you can restore almost everything. And in this case, you just need to rinse and clean the mechanism well.

The parts of watch mechanisms are washed in a highly purified gasoline-solvent such as "Galosha" or "Kalosha" (Nefras C2-80/120). It is sold in hardware stores. For rinsing, it is better to use a container of a suitable size made of a material resistant to gasoline (stainless steel, glazed porcelain, glass). As it gets dirty, gasoline is changed.

Gears, levers and sinkers are cleaned with a hard brush (a toothbrush with a pile cut to 5-7 mm), the holes in the sinkers are carefully cleaned with wooden toothpicks until the toothpicks stop getting dirty.

There is a temptation to scrape off parts with abrasive materials, but this is not the way to do it. To protect against tarnishing, old watches often used varnish on parts, which is easy to damage. A part with a damaged lacquer coating tarnishes very quickly after cleaning.

The spring drums are washed open. Before opening the drums, you need to mark the position of the lid in order to put it later in exactly the same position.

It is also good to remove the spring, rinse and lubricate outside the drum. To extract and install the spring in the drum, special tools or just strong hands are used. When filling the spring manually, you must take precautions: work with cotton gloves and a protective mask or at least goggles. In addition, with this filling, it is easy to damage the edge of the spring. Therefore, I did not dare to pull out the springs, limiting myself to washing and lubricating with the lid open.

How to assemble a wall clock?

It is better to assemble the mechanism on a stand, which will allow you to fix the front plate in a horizontal position. But you can collect and just on the table.

First, the spring drums, the intermediate and central wheels of the running gear, and the additional wheel with the program disk of the combat mechanism are put in place. These parts hold each other well and do not create problems.

Now install the remaining wheels of the movement and combat mechanisms. Wheels are installed according to the principle of "matryoshka in reverse" - from large to small. Assembling the mechanism incorrectly simply will not work, the wheels will not fit in someone else's place or will not engage with neighboring tribes.

After installing all the wheels on the mechanism, a rear plate is applied with a slight distortion so that the axles of the drums and large wheels of the lower part of the mechanism enter their holes. The trunnions of the axles of the wheels in the upper part, most likely, will simply rest against the platinum. If the length of the thread on the lower columns allows, then you can slightly fix the platinum with two nuts.

Now, in turn, from large wheels to smaller ones, the trunnions of the axles are inserted into the holes of the rear platinum with tweezers. At the same time, the platinum is slightly pressed by hand, but in such a way as not to damage the trunnions of the wheel axles. As the axles are installed, the platinum gradually sits in its place. After the final installation, the platinum is fixed with all four nuts on the columns.

Now you need to check the correctness of the assembly. The wheels should rotate freely, without the slightest jamming. If everything is in order, then mounted parts are installed (ratchets of drums, levers of the fighting mechanism) and a bridge with an anchor bracket.

The bridge is attached with two screws and requires adjustment. Maybe there are some special ways to accurately install the bridge, but this is how I did it. I installed the mechanism strictly vertically, grabbed the bridge with screws so that it could be moved with little friction. He started the travel spring a little, and moved the bridge, at the same time slightly pushing the fork-leash of the anchor bracket. And at some point, the mechanism ticked. Now it remains to adjust the smooth and stable course, finally fix the bridge and check the operation of the anchor with the pendulum.

Wall clock lubrication

Wall clocks are lubricated with watch oil. It has a low viscosity and does not dry out for a long time. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to get it. As a substitute, it is easiest to use vaseline oil, which is easy to buy at a pharmacy. In terms of its viscosity, it is well suited, and in old watch repair books it is even suggested for lubricating large watches as a full-fledged watch.

In no case should you lubricate the watch with other oils that are not intended for this - motor, silicone and, of course, sunflower. The properties of these oils do not meet the requirements at all - they have a high viscosity, dry quickly, coke. The maximum that you will achieve is the need to re-clean in just a few days.

In wall clocks, the trunnions of the axles of the wheels are lubricated by applying a small amount of oil to the recesses of the platinum near the holes (from 1/2 to 2/3 of the volume of the recess), the anchor bracket, the trunnions of the axles of the levers of the fighting mechanism. Gears and pinions do not need to be lubricated.

Wall Clock Adjustment

Now it remains to finally assemble the movement, putting the dial and hands in place, and install the watch in the case. In this case, you need to check the sound of the battle, if necessary, bend the hammers.

Wall pendulum clocks are very sensitive to the position of the clock case. The correct position is set by ear by the sound of the clock. The ticking should be even and steady. It happens that after adjustment, the position of the clock is too noticeably different from the vertical. To fix it, you need to change the position of the fork-leash relative to the anchor bracket, a friction landing is provided there. After that, you need to set the clock position again. To fix the position of the clock in the lower part of the case there are two screws with pointed ends, they are slightly pressed into the wall.

It remains to set the accuracy of the course. To do this, set the clock according to the exact time signals and check the discrepancy every other day. The stroke is adjusted by changing the length of the pendulum using the adjusting nut. If the clock is in a hurry, then the nut should be unscrewed, increasing the length, otherwise tighten. One turn of the nut usually corresponds to a change in stroke of one minute per day.

A well-cleaned and tuned watch runs off or lags by no more than a few seconds a day. Vaseline oil dries faster than a special watch oil, so it is advisable to inspect the watch every six months and re-lubricate in a timely manner (at least once every 2-3 years).

Comments

#64 Oleg Antonov 12/17/2017 04:03 PM

Quoting Akaki:

Let's say at 4-30 they beat 7 times, and at 5 o'clock they strike like half an hour ----- 1 time

You just need to rearrange the minute hand. The minute hand is on a square axis. That is, relative to the axis, it can be placed in four positions. Of these, two are correct, coinciding with the position of the two shoulders of the internal cam for starting the battle, and two are incorrect.
Simply remove the minute hand and move it 90 degrees to either side. Fight then adjust by manual start.