The importance of casing in wooden house there is no doubt. But the cost of its installation can be equal to the price of a double-glazed window. So for ten window openings DIY pigtail in timber house- the most economical option.

Types of pigtails and features of their design

The framing of window openings is done after the initial shrinkage of the house. So, a timber house must stand for at least a year. During this time, you can treat the walls with antiseptics and lay a subfloor. But this is a purely individual decision, because when making casings, a lot of debris is produced - sawdust, splashes of oil from a chainsaw chain, which can ruin already treated walls.

The most reliable are monolithic ones - T-shaped and U-shaped frames. They are able to withstand the deformation of walls made of timber, unlike conventional swarms.

This allows you to install windows flush with external wall, increasing the window sill and not worrying about slopes.

You should not buy a ready-made casing, because then you will have to adjust the openings to fit it, which is much more difficult to do. If it is not possible to do everything yourself, it is better to invite specialists who will make the joint on the spot.

Features of casing for an adjacent window opening with a balcony door

Due to the strong difference in size, the shrinkage of the openings will occur differently. Therefore, in no case should you make the casing common to the window and located nearby balcony door. They can be separated by a T-shaped window side.

After the final shrinkage of the house, the gaps will even out. But even if not, it is better than filling the gap under the window with foam, which can rise along with the door.

Do-it-yourself installation of a pigtail in a timber house

Depending on the type of casing chosen, the method of its installation also differs. General rules just a few:

1. Between the top and the edge of the window opening, a 3-5 cm deformation gap is left, which is filled mineral insulation or jute cloth, but in no case polyurethane foam. The latter, after hardening, will transfer pressure to the window frame, thereby neutralizing the entire effect of the gap.









2. All fresh cuts must be treated with a special antiseptic.

Locks for the pigtail are made in such a way as to minimize the penetration of cold air. The manufacturing process of all key elements is shown in great detail in the video:

T-shaped pigtail

A fairly simple and reliable version of the pigtail is the T-shaped one. Suitable even for novice amateur carpenters. Installed in several stages:

During installation, you should always check each part for horizontal and vertical level. Otherwise after installation window profiles deviations can be detected that may subsequently lead to incorrect operation accessories.

U-shaped casing with reverse quarter

A much more complex, but also the most reliable option is casing “into the deck”. Suitable for window and doorways houses made of timber and logs, while the “thorn-monolith” frame is used only in timber buildings. For a novice carpenter, such a pigtail will be a real test:

Having no experience in such work, it is better to first practice on a small object - a bathhouse or summer kitchen. And then your wooden house will turn out to be really warm and reliable!

You can install windows in a house made of timber on your own, without calling in specialists. It is important to follow the instructions carefully. Even minor errors can lead to serious consequences and the need for re-installation. Before starting work, you should clearly determine which windows will be installed and where.

Peculiarities

The main nuance regarding the installation of windows in a house made of timber is the gradual deformation of the walls. Over time, the material changes its geometry and dimensions - a phenomenon called shrinkage. For this reason, some owners prefer to make the final installation of windows and doors 12-24 months after the construction of the house. This is how many years it takes for shrinkage to occur.

There is no need to wait that long. Firstly, the phenomenon may be relevant even 5 years after construction. Secondly, windows in houses are placed in a special box, which protects them from possible deformation. To reduce the effect of shrinkage on the structure, it is worth leaving a small gap between it and the opening, the width of which does not exceed 5–7 cm. After installation, it will need to be filled by special means.

When installing PVC windows, you will need to use reflective foil tape. It will preserve the quality of the polyurethane foam, which could be negatively affected by wood fumes. An important nuance the selection of the window sill is considered. It must be selected taking into account possible installation heating radiators. If the window sill completely covers it, the heating of the room will worsen, and the material itself will suffer significantly. The window should be several centimeters smaller than the opening prepared for it.

Important! Special attention should be given to the surface of the window opening. If there is mold or moisture remains, then it is strictly not recommended to install the box with a window until the wood is completely cleaned and dried.

Types of windows

For the purpose of installation in a timber building, wooden windows are most often used, although if desired, you can choose plastic ones. Both designs will last for many years, and installation is almost the same. However, they have their differences.

Wooden windows are different high level environmental friendliness They blend beautifully with the overall appearance of the house and fit into any interior. They are quite attractive in price. The disadvantages include the need for regular additional processing using special means after 5 years of operation. This will prevent deterioration in the appearance of the material and its rotting. For the manufacture of frames, pine, oak or larch (in the form of laminated veneer lumber) are usually used.

Plastic windows let in less cold winter time years, have good thermal insulation and tightness. They are presented in many models on the market, which makes it difficult to choose ideal option it will be quite simple. Plastic is easy to maintain, resistant to impacts and does not lose its properties when used in unfavorable climatic conditions. The main disadvantage is considered to be low compatibility with the appearance of a house made of timber. And a low-quality design can retain heat poorly, significantly transmit sound from the street and have a short service life.

Windows also differ in their design. The installation process for them is identical, but operation can differ radically. The issue of choice should be approached as seriously as possible.

Single leaf

The smallest of classic windows are considered single-leaf. They are ideal for a hallway or kitchen, but for other rooms the amount of light transmitted will be insufficient. Therefore, they should be inserted only in small areas.

Bivalve

Standard windows that are used in most apartments and private houses. They have two doors, one of which opens in both planes. They are distinguished by practicality and the highest levels of convenience.

Tricuspid

Ideal for large rooms. Fits best in the living room and bedroom. Windows let in a lot of light and make the interior more beautiful. Two of the three doors can be opened completely or at a certain angle.

Deaf

Fixed windows have the simplest design and are very small in size. They are designed for installation in basements or attics. The design does not imply opening, and its shape can be triangular, rectangular or round.

Required Tools

Before installing windows yourself, you should think in advance about having all the necessary tools.

You need to prepare:

• perforator;
• drill-driver;
• hammer;
• mallet;
• chisel;
• anchor plates;
• pliers;
• hexagon;
• level;
• polyurethane foam;
• spray bottle with water.

When replacing a tool with its analogue, special care should be taken, since the process of performing the same action in this case may vary significantly. You need to try not to make mistakes.

Installation steps

Installation plastic windows in a log house it is carried out only in calm and dry weather. It should be at least -10 °C outside. Materials must be kept dry and undamaged. The same applies to wooden structures. The whole procedure takes place in several stages.

Preparing the opening

At the very beginning you need to prepare the window opening. The main task will be to maintain the evenness of the surface along all edges, which will need to be verified using a level. If the house is old, the existing windows should be removed.

Before proceeding to active actions, calculations should be made. The lower part of the window should be at a level of 80–90 cm from the floor. The dimensions of the opening must be calculated taking into account the dimensions of the window structure. They should be increased by 220 mm in width and 245 mm in height. This is necessary for installing the casing, the thickness of which on each side will be about 100 mm, gaps for insulation and gradual shrinkage.

To prepare the opening, you need to outline it with a pencil and then cut it out with a chain saw. After making sure that the surface is even, you need to apply protective impregnation, which will not allow the wood to deteriorate from moisture.

Casing

You can make the casing yourself. It is needed even in cases where the house is old and the likelihood of shrinkage is minimal. Its main purpose is to fix the opening and the entire structure. The casing is created from embedded or monolithic timber and installed using the tongue-and-groove system. When installing it, you need to take into account the gap at the top, the size of which should be about 15 mm for each meter of wall height.

Step by step steps:

1. Apply markings to the walls and prepared opening.
2. Make grooves 50 mm wide and deep in the side edges of the opening.
3. Place a special tourniquet inside the grooves.
4. Lay the bottom board, placing insulation underneath it.
5. Insert a 50 mm thick tenon into the groove.
6. Screw the board to the tenon with self-tapping screws (the thickness is 50 mm, and the width is equal to that of the wall beam).
7. Install the top board into the grooves, placing it on the vertical elements.
8. Fill the upper gap with insulation and cover it with a special film.
9. Secure the entire box with self-tapping screws and fill the remaining cracks with sealant.

If you follow the instructions, the casing structure will be reliable. It is important that the boards used in it are dry at the time of installation.

Reference! It is possible to install plastic windows “in the deck” using carriages with grooves. However, the tongue-and-groove method is more universal and reliable.

Installation

The last step is installing the windows. It is important to make sure that the casing is level before starting work. To carry out the installation, it is best to invite an assistant, since it will be difficult for one person to cope.

Installation procedure:

1. Install the frame inside the window opening, securing it with special wedges.
2. Level the frame using a level and secure with self-tapping screws.
3. Fill all remaining gaps with foam.
4. Install ebb and flow with slopes.
5. Cash out by attaching the platbands to the boards of the frame.
6. Insert the double-glazed windows into the frame and align them with glazing beads.
7. Hang the doors on their hinges and make sure they are working properly.

The window can be used. If the curvature of the structure is later discovered, it can only be eliminated by complete reinstallation. It is recommended to ensure evenness during the installation process.

To get the maximum beautiful window and simplification of work should be taken advantage of simple tips and recommendations:

• It is not recommended to install windows immediately after building a house; even the casing does not guarantee one hundred percent protection against shrinkage;
• connections for the window structure must be sliding, which will prevent the window from deforming in the future;
• finishing should be done only after complete installation windows and checking the evenness of its location;
• Before starting work, it is recommended to calculate everything before the smallest details and prepare the corresponding drawing.

If you have any doubts about whether it will be possible to install a window, it is better to seek the help of a specialist. If there is a lack of experience, there is a high risk of injury or structural damage, which will lead to large financial costs. To install a window in a log house, you need to perform all steps carefully and follow the instructions.

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Installation of a window in a timber house: technology for self-execution, plus a photo report of the work done

Greetings. In previous articles, I described in detail the technology for installing plastic and wooden windows into the opening of walls built of brick, concrete, foam concrete blocks and similar materials. But installation of glazing in wooden buildings is carried out according to completely different rules, so installing windows in a log house with your own hands deserves a separate review.

Features of installing glazing in houses made of wooden beams

Installing windows in a wooden house is complicated by the fact that wood, unlike concrete, stone and brickwork, this is an unstable material that changes its geometry throughout its entire service life.

Someone will say that this is why a wooden house is built for shrinkage, after which the lumber shows an unchanged configuration. But, in fact, walls built from rectangular or rounded timber sag slightly all the time.

These processes occur less intensively in buildings erected using laminated veneer lumber. But even this couple of millimeters, by which the wall will sag annually, is enough for the double-glazed window to deform and crack.

How to compensate for shrinkage processes in wooden buildings and prevent damage to plastic windows?

In fact, a solution to the problem was invented several centuries ago, when glazing began to be installed in the openings of huts. The solution is simple - the window is not installed directly in the opening, but in a box that is fixed in the opening using a floating method, that is, without direct attachment to the wall. As a result, the deformation of the walls is not transferred to the frame and the window is not subject to mechanical stress.

How windows are installed in timber houses

So, you decided to insert a window yourself wooden wall. Let's find out how to do it right.

In the following table you can familiarize yourself with the work that needs to be done in order for the window to securely take its place in the wall of a timber house.

Let's take a closer look at how the work listed in the table is performed.

Manufacturing of casing (plugs)

Among current varieties I will note the following options:

• Casing in an embedded block (U-shaped) involves making a groove around the perimeter of the opening into which the casing element is inserted directly;

• Casing in a deck (T-shaped) involves making a spike along the side ends of the opening, onto which the casing elements are placed directly.

Currently, the U-shaped type of socket is most widely used, namely such modifications as embedded block, tenon-monolith and finishing casing.

The choice of materials for the manufacture of the casing is selected depending on the construction project:

• If the walls are built from square or rounded timber without the need for subsequent finishing, finishing material should be used to make the frame, for example, the same laminated timber;
• If the wall is assembled from lumber for subsequent cladding with one or another finishing materials, can be used to make a pigtail rough materials, appearance which will be unimportant.

To make the opening and install the casing, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Chainsaw;

It is preferable to use an electric saw, as you will have to work indoors. But if you don’t have a power tool, a chainsaw will do, but you’ll have to provide good ventilation inside the log house.

• Miter saw;
• Water or laser level;
• Plumb;
• Stapler with staples for installing jute tape;
• Beam 150×100 mm for making sidewalls;
• Board 100×50 mm for making the top lintel;
• Bar 50×50 mm
• Antiseptic solution for processing lumber;
• Jute tape for the width of the wall;
• Mineral wool for filling technological gaps;
• Window acrylic sealant.

The instructions for making a casing (plug) are as follows:

• In accordance with the ordered windows, we carry out markings;

When marking, make the opening width 150 mm larger than the window width. The height of the opening is marked with a margin of 50 mm for shrinkage plus the width of the board that will be used for the upper lintel. To make markings, it is best to use a laser level, however, if such a tool is not available, you can use a plumb line in combination with a spirit level.

• According to the markings made, an opening is cut out;

I do not recommend throwing away the timber removed from the opening. It is better to carefully collect it and leave it for later for making some crafts; in extreme cases, if it is not useful, you can chop the bars onto dry wood chips and use them for kindling.

• We measure the height of the opening and, in accordance with the measurement, saw off two pieces of timber;
• We apply the sawn pieces of timber to the opening and level it;
• We mark the location of the leveled beam on one and the other side of the opening;
• According to the markings made, we make a groove in the sides of the opening for the width of the beam;

In order for the pigtail to last as long as possible, the groove must be treated with an antiseptic solution. If the price of special antiseptics seems high, the cut wood can be impregnated with waste, which has good penetrating ability.

• We drive a beam into the groove made on one side and the other of the opening, so that a shrinkage gap of 50 mm remains in the upper part;

• We clean the lower part of the window opening;
• We saw off two boards along the height of the opening;

• From the end of each board, as shown in the photo above, we select a half-wood groove for installing the upper lintel;
• We fasten jute tape on the sides of the opening with a stapler;
• We install pre-prepared boards on top of the jute tape, so that the recesses made look inside the opening;

• We position the boards according to the level and fasten them with self-tapping screws so that they fit into the timber previously hammered into the groove;

To ensure that the screws do not fit into the wood in the groove, it is enough to correctly calculate their length. Our groove depth is 50 mm and the board thickness is 50 mm, which in total is 100 mm. As a result, to be sure that the post will be held firmly and the beam will be floating, self-tapping screws with a length of 80 mm are sufficient.

• After the sidewalls are installed, we additionally measure the length of the upper jumper so that it fits into the recesses made in the upper part of the sidewalls.

• We cut the board according to the measurements taken and insert it into top part casing;

• We fix the installed board with self-tapping screws so that they fit into the casing, but not into the opening;
• We fill the gap between the upper lintel and the upper part of the opening mineral wool or similar sealant.

At this point, the manufacture of the casing can be considered completed and you can begin installing the window.

Installation of a plastic window in a pre-prepared casing

At this stage installation work we will need the following tools and materials:

• Electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
• Level and roulette;
• 5 mm hexagon and slotted screwdriver for disassembling the window;
• Metal scissors for trimming castings;
• Plastic or wooden wedges inserts for leveling the frame;
• Polyurethane foam.

The installation instructions are as follows:

• We measure the newly arrived window along the perimeter and compare the resulting size with the dimensions of the internal perimeter of the frame;

According to the results of measurements in a wooden house, the gap between the frame and the frame should be at least 10 mm and no more than 20 mm on each side.

• Remove the glazing from the frame;

In order to remove the doors, pull the pin out of the hinges. In order to dismantle double-glazed windows, you need to knock out the glazing bead around the perimeter of the glass. Take a close look at the glazing bead. For ease of dismantling, the manufacturer leaves a small gap between the frame and the bead into which the tip of a knife can be inserted.

• We carefully take the removed sashes and double-glazed windows to a place where they will not interfere and place them close to the wall so that nothing falls;
• We remove the protective tape since there will be nothing particularly dirty to the profile;

• We close the drainage holes located in the lower part of the frame with plugs;
• We measure 200 mm from the upper corner of the frame and drill the first through hole with a 6 mm drill;

• We measure the same 200 mm from the bottom corner of the frame and drill a similar hole;
• Between two drilled holes we mark the location of the intermediate hole, with the condition that the holes are spaced apart from each other by no more than 600 mm;
• We mark and drill holes around the entire perimeter of the frame;

• After the holes are drilled, we glue the PSUL sealing tape along the end of the frame;

• By placing plastic inserts under each impost, we align the frame in the opening;

Inserts are available for sale various thicknesses, starting from 2 and ending with 10 mm. But, if it is difficult to find special liners, you can use wood chips that you can chop from the timber remaining after cutting the opening.

• Along the perimeter of the frame exposed in the opening, we use a drill through all the through holes and drill holes in the wood;

• We attach the profile to the casing metal dowels 92 mm long (this length is enough to go through the profile and enter the casing, but not enter the perimeter of the opening);

• We apply a casting on the outside of the frame and make markings on it so that it can be trimmed;

• We cut the ebb with metal scissors, trying to ensure that the bend of the cutting edge is directed downward;
• At the bottom of the window there is a special groove into which the ebb is inserted;

• We fasten the ebb inserted into the groove with self-tapping screws to the profile;

• We lift the edge of the fixed ebb and apply polyurethane foam into the gap;
• The shutters are hung on the window and previously dismantled double-glazed windows are installed;

• On finishing stage blow foam into the technological gap between the casing and the frame;
• After the foam has dried, cut off the sagging with a sharp;
• At subsequent stages, you can install platbands or perform another type of finishing at your discretion.

Conclusion

Now you have general idea about how to insert a modern double-glazed window into timber walls.

Of course, during installation work certain questions may arise. Please indicate points that require clarification in the comments to this article, and I will try to immediately give a comprehensive answer. If there is personal experience installing windows using a different method, tell us about it, I think everyone will be interested.

By the way, don’t forget to watch the video in this article, maybe it will be useful for you.

October 9, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and timber, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this point is decisive in installing plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period drying of wood. But that's not true. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that's not all. Wood not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs it. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

• Shrinkage in a log house is about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
• Shrinkage in a house made of timber is about 7 - 10 mm per beam with a section of 150x150 mm
• Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log houses as a percentage: approximately 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

• on the material (log, rounded log, timber, laminated timber);
• from the time of material procurement ( winter harvesting or summer);
• depending on the time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - we explored this too!
• from where the forest grew (swamp, field);on the degree of resinity and density of the tree;
• on the size of the material - both its length and thickness;
• from the moisture content of the material;
• on the size of the building;on construction technology (dowel, type of felling, etc.);
• from the material of inter-crown insulation;from the type of wood;
• depending on the time of year when construction is carried out.

The most severe shrinkage occurs in log houses made of ordinary logs, followed by rounded logs, profiled beams, timber, and laminated veneer lumber.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary to take into account when installing windows in a wooden house vertical movements walls as a result of an increase and or decrease in humidity and air temperature in different times year.

Wooden house - Living

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is carried out not in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, acting as a connecting link between the window and the wall. This box is called differently: casing, frame, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window box made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beams) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, and is held in place by grooves in the side posts mounted on spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the window frame - only tow, jute (flax batting) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage gap

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the jamb, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible amount of shrinkage of the logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (timber) of the opening correct calculation will not press down or deform the pigtail. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not in any way affect the size and shape of the window frame, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window located inside it.

Shrinkage gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house that has long gone through the process of shrinkage, then, disassembling window units, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. are not nailed to the logs of the opening, but are fixed in it using a simple “mortise and tenon” system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology of installing windows and doors in a wooden house in frames was invented a very long time ago, and is used successfully to this day. We will not invent anything new and will follow the same path.

There are several ways to install the pigtail (more details at the link):

• T-shaped frame - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, and a T-shaped profile is placed into it;
• U-shaped - a tenon is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and a groove is made in the side casing posts).

We do both options, since they provide maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the frame not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:We cut out an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which are slightly larger than the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for the T-shaped pigtail;

We form a spike for a U-shaped pigtail;

We make the parts of the pigtail;

We install the window frame in the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house into a frame, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such length that they do not pierce through the frame and do not go into the logs);

We blow foam into the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the frame, not forgetting about the installation of waterproofing (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for rough frame under the cladding, for finishing it is not required since the window rests on the quarter) foam seam;

we install external platbands (we attach them to the casing);

we carry out the interior finishing of the window (window sill, slopes - not required for finishing the frame, since it is the slopes and window sill).

We use foam only inside the pigtail. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute fabric.

Over the next 5 years (if the house is newly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation put in there. If this is not done, the upper parts may bend.

Even after the house has completely settled, the gaps around the casing should under no circumstances be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before cutting, we mark the window opening using a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly level in all planes, therefore the frame must also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible according to the level initially.

The lower crown in the opening needs to be sawed through so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.

We determine the dimensions of the opening based on the size of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

We perform all calculations visually. Here is an example of a diagram for calculating the size of the opening for a rough T-shaped frame:

Accordingly, we take a beam with a cross-section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a diagram for calculating the details of a p-type finishing socket:

For a U-shaped pigtail made of solid timber cut out a U-shaped profile.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage of the house, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, roughly calculate, taking everything to the maximum, then for the window standard height 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing crossbars, plus installation gaps of ~ 245 mm) with 15% shrinkage, the top gap will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole, the height of which will most likely end up being too large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOST standards regulating the shrinkage values ​​of building materials of various wood species, comparing this with local climatic conditions etc.
You can do it simpler, namely:

If you are building new home, then start installing windows in it no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, when manufacturing and installing the pigtail, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for log house, 50-40 mm for timber and 40 mm for a house made of laminated veneer lumber;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, just to compensate for possible seasonal changes geometric dimensions opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it and cut it out. Now you need to cut out a tenon at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The tenon is also marked using a level in the center of the log (beam).

We make the tenon size 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We cover the sides and bottom of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making a pigtail

First, you need to decide on the width of the frame bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be a little larger, so that later, when installing external trims, they (the trims) fit tightly and unhindered on the frame, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a groove around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, to make a pigtail you need to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will soon deform as it dries.

First we cut out the bottom part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill we cut a groove for a tenon 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

We also make small 20 mm recesses at the ends of both window sills for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make the side posts 70 mm higher than the height of the plastic window frame. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut out a groove for a tenon 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock in the side posts for the upper part.

Lastly, we make the top part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installation of the pigtail

We begin installing the frame into the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then the top is inserted into the opening, under which we place the side posts one by one, placing them with grooves on the tenons.

We fasten the elements of the frame together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not obligatory), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the parts do not bend.

We close the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. More details in the article ""

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Now you can begin installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window, aligning it with the front edge of the frame. Place the window inside a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, there is no need here due to the lower thermal conductivity coefficient of wood (smaller freezing depth).

Especially with small wall thicknesses wooden house, by recessing the window into the opening, we will be forced to trim the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result on the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken with a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details, see the photo report based on photographs from a thermal imager here.

Rough frame for cladding

If you have calculated the dimensions of the opening and the frame as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame when installing in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (we do not make the bottom gap larger, because the stand profile makes it possible put it under the frame later plastic window sill, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to attach the frame to the frame with the help of self-tapping screws of such a size that they fit into the body of the frame, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws longer than the thickness of the frame is dangerous because they will pass through the frame and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.

Provided that everything preparatory work were done using a level, the window frame should fit exactly along the frame, i.e. the front edge of the frame should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Waterproofing a window from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the frame, we need to decide what material we will use to waterproof the installation seam on the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If from sun rays We can simply cover the installation seam with platbands or flashings, but with waterproofing the situation is more complicated, because it must meet two basic conditions: not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by materials such as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant “STIZ-A”.
Sealant "STIZ-A" - one-component vapor-permeable acrylic sealant white for sealing the outer layer - characterized by good adhesion to the base building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, among others.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even in negative temperature up to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find in small containers, and buying a whole bucket makes sense when you are installing a lot of windows. If you choose “STIZ-A” as external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, we cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Waterproofing vapor-permeable tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with an adhesive layer of sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, ensure it is oriented correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (don’t forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, air passage is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to “blow through” the tape is the outer (street) side.

The sequence of actions (first tape, then foam or first foam, then tape) does not have of great importance, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding when drying, not only stretches the tape with a bubble (it will interfere with the installation of trim later), but can also tear it off the window or frame.

Therefore, if you first stick the tape, then screw the platbands or hard strips on top of it immediately, and only then foam it. Or foam it first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL - pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape(similar to foam rubber), impregnated special composition, thanks to which it is waterproofing and vapor permeable. Supplied compressed, rolled into rollers.

If you choose PSUL tape, then buy one that expands more than 30 mm. You will have to stick the PSUL not on outer side frame profile, and to the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to cover the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The installation seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has completely expanded and closed the installation gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding as it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL on the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal vapor barrier of windows

WITH inside The foam should also not remain open to prevent moisture from getting into it from the air in the room. To install an internal vapor barrier, you can use vapor barrier tape, which has already been discussed in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 (“STIZ-B”).

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. Before the foam under the tape hardens, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise later the tape “bloated” with foam will interfere with this.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, or more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install window sills and starting profile, as when using tape. Nothing will prevent you from doing this later, when it is convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes to install the slopes - we fasten everything with self-tapping screws into the wood (into the frame).

There is also no need to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam plastic or other material. To be on the safe side, it is enough to foam the slopes before installing them. inner surface casing in a narrow strip next to the installation seam. This will be enough, because wood does not freeze as deeply as concrete or brick.

Like a window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve, in my opinion, a greater aesthetic effect, but for this you will need a good woodworking machine to evenly cut out the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, which will be install a plastic window.

What a reverse quarter is can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which it will be installed window frame from the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: a 5-chamber VEKA has a profile thickness of 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 70 mm.

Important exact calculation sizes of the frame and the window, careful assembly of the frame and installation of the frame in the opening exactly at the level - the internal clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all edges of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without distortion. In order not to make a mistake in the dimensions, it is better to first make and install the window frame, and only then accurately measure and order the plastic window locally.

Let's assume that the window frame is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made such that it is slightly larger than the “clearance” of the casing, or more precisely: 10 mm more in width and the same amount in height. Such a window will not fit into the frame from the inside, but it will easily fit into the reverse quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (this is no longer possible - the sash hinges will interfere), and an installation gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful tight connection between the frame and the casing on the room side, you can use a D-shaped door seal. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But as practice shows, when high-quality manufacturing pigtails there is no need for such an addition. The window is placed directly into the quarter and the meringue of gaps is pressed tightly against the frame.

When attaching the frame, we press it tightly against the quarter, squeezing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. Installed window foams from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with waterproofing tape or sealed with “STIZ-A” sealant, and the trim is installed.

Of course, since we refuse interior decoration casing with any additional elements, then they must refine it, i.e. give it a look that matches interior design premises.

First of all, you need to give the bottom crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.

Secondly, we “dawn” the internal surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross-section) shape of these elements and create a large chamfer, simulating a reversal of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options here: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and coat it with varnish. You can cover the wood with stain desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and/or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more expensive option - brushing the surface, i.e. antiqued treatment.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various designer styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood using metal brush(along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of lint and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately coat the wood with varnish, but “aged” wood will look much more impressive after treating it with stain of the color you want. However, there is an even more effective way of painting - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved using paint of the desired color: it covers the entire front surface of the casing, and then top layer removed with a cloth before the paint has had time to dry. Final stage artificial aging- varnish coating. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface soft cloth to add shine.