What the sheathing is attached to. Installation of sheathing: we equip a reliable base for different types of roofing

Metal tiles are one of the most common roofing materials. Made mainly from thin steel(although there are types of metal tiles made of copper or aluminum), stamped in such a way that finished product takes on the appearance of classic ceramic tiles, the use of which has been proven by centuries of experience.

The surface of each sheet is covered with a special protective layer polymer-metal coating that reliably protects the material from corrosion - the stated service life is 15-60 years. looks very solid and elegant. The weight of the material is approximately two times lower than that of slate, which makes it possible to use lightweight material and reduce the load on the load-bearing elements of the building.

If the installation is carried out correctly, there are no problems, although there are some disadvantages: relatively high cost, the possibility of corrosion, the danger of condensation and good sound conductivity - the roof is quite noisy when it rains. When installing, these points must be taken into account and, if possible, try to mitigate negative impact. In this article you will learn how to make a sheathing for metal tiles and how to correctly calculate the sheathing pitch.

Fastening the coating using self-tapping screws

How to properly make sheathing for metal tiles? We'll talk about this further.

Do-it-yourself installation of lathing under metal tiles

The roof sheathing for metal tiles is carried out from the lower edge of the roof in a certain sequence. We present to your attention - installation of lathing for metal tiles (step-by-step instructions).

, fastening it to the rafters using slats of the same thickness. They are usually cut from the same board that goes into the sheathing.
The outermost row of sheathing, which carries gutters and cornice strips, is attached to the slats.
The next row of sheathing is installed, the wave pitch is measured from the edge of the first row to the middle of the second.
Subsequent rows are set with calculating the wave step from the center line of the board.
Installation of rows of sheathing alternates with installation waterproofing film. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the insulation and seal the joints of the fabric with tape.
The junctions of the walls are reinforced with an additional row of planks. They are attached to them (ridge, corners, etc.).
Constantly monitor the condition of the rows, avoid sagging, waves and other distortions. If necessary, place slats and wedges under the boards to level the row.

Metal roofing pie

Important! It is necessary to constantly carry out all available operations to control the maintenance of the plane of the substrate; this will help eliminate deflections and increase the service life of the roof.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier of metal tiles

Metal roofing is most dangerous due to the possibility of condensation. In this regard, no measures will be superfluous, since getting the rafter system and the roof itself wet short term will damage the roof. All elements will have to be completely changed, which means big expenses and labor costs. Therefore, it is important to correctly carry out hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof.

The main condition will be the provision between the waterproofing film and the roof itself. This will allow moisture to evaporate, steam to escape through the membrane, and will contribute to preservation.

Air movement is ensured by the sheathing for metal tiles, which creates a sufficient gap between the layers and ensures that there are no points of contact.

CAREFULLY!

Waterproofing metal tiles is advisable even when the attic is non-residential, since from internal space At home, water vapor is constantly being squeezed out, which will gradually affect the roofing material. The presence of a cut-off will allow it to be removed without contact with metal, eliminating corrosion.

Useful video

We invite you to watch a thematic video on self-installation battens:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be noted the importance of competent and careful installation of sheathing under metal tiles as an element responsible for the safety and effective work roofs in general. The quality of the sheathing determines the service life of the roof, and to some extent, the load on the walls and the general condition of the building. A responsible attitude to the installation of sheathing will allow you to avoid unnecessary costs of labor and money and guarantee the most efficient operation of the roof.

Modern market building materials offers the widest range of roofing coverings, one of which is the most common.

In addition to its aesthetic appearance and durability, the coating is durable and resistant to moisture, ultraviolet rays and other environmental influences. The material is environmentally friendly, resistant to temperature fluctuations, fire-resistant and easy to install.

When installing the roof important role plays the correct calculation of the frame pitch, which is determined by the wavelength of the metal tile. Errors in the calculation can lead to a shift in everything load-bearing structure in relation to the place of optimal fastening of the roofing decking with self-tapping screws.

Calculation of sheathing pitch

Calculation of the distance between the frame bars for metal tiles is carried out as follows:

The pitch of the frame depends on the variety roofing.
The interval between the boards of the lathing structure is provided for in the instructions for a certain type of roof. It is calculated from the bottom of the first bar to the top of the second.
The gap between the first pair of frame beams is always smaller than between the others.
The slope of the roof slope and the protrusion of the metal covering beyond the starting beam of the sheathing affect the interval between the planks.
The correct calculation of the interval between the first pair of bars is done by measuring the distance from the highest point of the first wave to the bottom of the place. To do this, place a level 1.5 m long on the rafter, measure it and make an appropriate mark. Sizes are considered standard shear wave 30–45 cm, in this interval it is recommended to choose the optimal step.
Using the same level, determine the approximate position of the covering sheet by placing a triangular ruler to the front plank and marking the location of the point of the desired protrusion, the level is adjusted to this point.
The thickness of the starting strip should be greater than the others to avoid overhanging overhang during the installation of the roofing material.
The length of subsequent frame crossbars is measured from the top point of the second plank at an equal interval equal to the roof profile. Tags for load-bearing structure marked every two beams, this is due to the fact that it may be curved and will need to be adjusted by tensioning it according to the applied markers.
The calculation must be performed strictly from top to bottom, controlling the remaining length of the metal tile.

It should be noted that the frame pitch is also affected by the presence of a water drain and its configuration. If it is attached to the face beam, it will add 3-4 cm to the protrusion.

Required materials and tools

Lumber is used as material for the lathing structure:

pine;
fir;
larch.

The most suitable raw material is pine, which is durable, hard and easy to process.

To attach the roofing to the frame you will need:

timber with a section of 50x50 or 40x60 mm;
timber with a section of 30x1350 or 50x1370 mm (for counter-lattice);
rectangular board 20–35 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

To install the frame you must have:

measuring tape;
level;
triangular ruler;
felt-tip pen;
screwdriver;
hammer;
self-tapping screws, nails (the length should be 2 times the thickness of the timber);
tools for cutting beams (jigsaw, electric scissors, hacksaw);
ladder or wooden platform.

Sheathing device

Upon completion of all necessary calculations, selection necessary materials You can begin constructing the frame for the covering.

It should be taken into account that the sheathing is installed after laying waterproofing, which is performed so that the ventilation streams move freely from below under the roof ridge and are discharged outside.

If there is a waterproofing and thermal insulation layer for the roof installation, it is necessary to install a counter-lattice, which will improve the quality of the roof.

What is also important is that its arrangement makes it possible to correct errors made during the installation of rafters.

Installation of lathing under metal tiles

The technology for installing the frame is extremely simple and straightforward:

The starting board is attached strictly along the length of the eaves overhang in a straight line so that it does not protrude beyond the overhang. Its thickness should be 10-15 cm greater than the rest.
The second row is fastened in such a way that the wave step distance is smaller. Subsequent rows - on equal distance wave pitch.
The beams are attached to the rafter system using self-tapping screws. The use of nails can lead to destruction of the wood structure and reduced service life. If the choice is made on nails, then you should choose large slate nails. The sheathing should be secured to each rafter with two nails.
An edged board is attached to the beams at a certain pitch (depending on the type of coating).
2 more beams are installed on the rafter beams at a distance of no more than 5 cm from each other, which will serve as a support for the roof ridge.
In the locations of valleys, air ducts and windows, a solid sheathing is performed. With this type of frame, the beams on the rafters are placed parallel to the ridge.
A pair of boards located to each other in the opposite direction are fixed on the ridge.
When making lathing over thermal insulation, it is unacceptable to make a solid frame or with small gaps, this can disrupt movement air flow in the under-roof space and lead to moisture accumulation.
Before installing the roof deck on inner side the valleys secure the plank.

Features of the outermost row of sheathing

In the process of constructing the frame, you should pay attention to 3 important features extreme row:

The installation of the sheathing begins with attaching the eaves strip to the bottom of the rafters, which protects the edges of the frame from the damaging effects of precipitation. The following elements of the structure will be aligned with this plank, so its installation requires special precision. To do this, measure the distance from the wall to the edges of the outer rafters; if there are discrepancies, they are aligned to the lowest value using a stretched thread, along which the length of other parts is adjusted. Fastening is carried out with nails in checkerboard pattern in increments of 30 cm.
Before installing the sheathing, in order to compensate for the difference with subsequent rows of the frame, the first row is made higher by one wave, which can fluctuate in the range of 2.8–7.5 cm. If the length of the protruding part of the plank is not enough to arrange the edge of the roof (40-50 cm) , you can lengthen the rafter leg using a roofing filly. The extension must be aligned with the tensioned thread, after which the cornice can be attached.
Through the first row of the frame, to ensure unhindered drainage of water and prevent damage to the film, an edge is inserted into the drain. For these purposes, in the upper part the rail is beveled to an angle of 120-140 degrees relative to the rafter leg.

Defects in sheathing for metal tiles

In case of technology violation, installation of the frame under metal coating may result in defects:

the fastening of the roofing material to the sheathing will not be strong;
the flooring sheets do not fit together;
in the process of attaching additional strips (cornice and pediment) difficulties often arise;
wrinkling of the sheet covering of the slope.

Installation of metal tiles

Immediately before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to install the fastening holders for the gutter and the eaves strip.

Installation of brackets is carried out as follows:

Fastening the outer support parts of the drain is necessary for installation correct angle tilt to drain water in the proper direction. The first holder is fixed with self-tapping screws to the cornice strip and bent down.
Using a level, set a mark for the holder of the lower end of the tray. For every 1 linear meter tray, the slope should be 2–5 mm. The lower holder is attached according to the mark made.
A thread is pulled between the outer support elements, following which the remaining brackets are mounted in increments of 50–80 cm. The overhang of water drainage from the last holder should not be less than 5 cm.
A gutter corresponding to the size is placed in holders and secured with special fasteners.

The installation should be carried out in such a way that its lower part overlaps the edge of the gutter. If one strip is not enough, install another one with an overlap of 4-5 cm and fix it to the front and cornice strips with self-tapping screws in increments of 30–40 cm.
Double-sided tape is glued over the installed cornice strip and a waterproofing film is glued along its lower edge.

Upon completion of the preliminary work, they begin laying the flooring.

The technology for laying the material is as follows:

Installation of the flooring can be started from both the right and left edges. In the option from the right edge, due to the next sheet overlapping the final wave of the previous one, an overlay of sheets is created. Otherwise, the next sheet will be placed under the previously laid sheet. No matter which option is chosen, sufficient roof covering is of utmost importance.
It is easiest to stack the sheets in one row. To avoid distortion, you should not immediately attach the material to the sheathing; first, do not attach the first sheet too tightly with one screw. Next, lay the next one next to it, level it and fix both sheets with threaded screws, without fixing them to the frame. The second pair of sheets are laid in the same way.
The resulting module from two pairs of connected sheets is aligned along the cornice ledge, and then attached to the frame. This installation scheme for metal tiles is suitable only on short slopes.
Often the flooring is covered with several stripes. To do this, the first pair of sheets is combined into a module similar to the previous method, and the next sheet is placed above the first, the fourth - above the second. As a result, a module is created from two pairs of sheets, which, after centering is completed, is fixed to the sheathing.
The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the process of laying roofing on an inclined surface of a triangular configuration. The installation of tiles in this case begins from the center of the inclined surface.
The center lines of the slope and the first sheet of covering are connected. Subsequent installation is performed to the left and right of the starting sheet. To work, the sheets will have to be cut, this is the main difficulty.
Marking is simplified by the tool self-made, which is a structure made of slats 10 cm wide with a movable connection between each other. The interval between the bottom side of the plank on the left and the face plane of the board with right side must correspond to 1 m.
To cut a sheet using a dash, it is placed on the site, the tool is attached to it in such a way that the vertical board is placed on the bevel, and the horizontally laid boards are parallel to the eaves overhang. The marking line is drawn along outside the second vertical strip, after which the sheet is removed and cut along the line of the mark.

The wood for lathing should be well-dried and free of rot. If the board is dried insufficiently or improperly, after some time it may warp, which will negatively affect the quality of the frame. Humidity of all wooden elements used as a material during the construction of the frame should not be higher than 25%.
The thickness of the lumber must be the same, otherwise the roofing will lie unevenly. As a result, it is not recommended to use unedged boards, wood low quality and with defects.
Before you start making the sheathing, all beams and boards must be treated with antiseptic mixtures that prevent rotting and ignition of the wood.
To avoid reducing the rigidity of the sheathing, the wooden elements that make up the frame structure cannot be connected on the same rafter.
It is recommended to fill the eaves overhang board with an additional element of metal tiles - a cornice corner, which will protect the wood from the effects of water flowing from the edges of the flooring.
In addition to using wood to make sheathing, you can use metal profile, which is more resistant to moisture than wood. However, it should be noted that the frame and rafter system.
When laying metal tiles, the use of an angle grinder is strictly prohibited. When the material is heated, the protective barrier is destroyed. polymer coating, which subsequently leads to corrosion of the roofing.
If the polymer coating was damaged during the installation of the sheets, it is recommended to cover it with paint, which can be purchased at the same store as the rest of the material.
Metal shingles cannot be laid on either side, each sheet has a top and a bottom, so the laying method is strictly established.
If the sheathing is done using a lattice method, then the step between the boards cannot be arbitrary. It depends on the characteristics of the coating. The bending strength in different zones of the sheet is different with the same thickness.
Most often, the construction pitch is maintained within 30–40 cm. For metal tiles with the Monterrey profile, the distance between the covering elements should be 35 cm.
When calculating the required amount of lumber for making a frame, experts recommend increasing the calculated figure by 10 percent for the reserve.

In the photo: the frame serves as the basis for attaching the lining

Wherever you cover surfaces, be it a balcony, a bathhouse or a living space, the first thing to do is construct the sheathing for the lining. IN this review we will figure out how to build a structure from wooden block and what nuances to pay close attention to. All recommendations have been tested in practice, so using them, you can carry out the work yourself.

Description of work

In order for the lathing for the lining to be strong and durable, it is necessary to follow a certain work technology.

It consists of three stages:

Calculation and purchase of materials.
Preparing the bar for use.
Installation of the structure.

Each stage is important, so carefully read the entire review to avoid errors during operation.

The first stage – calculation and purchase of material

To work we need a very simple set of materials:

Wooden block.
Fasteners See article.
Insulation (if necessary).

FEATURE 1: frame location step. Optimal distance between the elements of the sheathing is from 40 to 60 cm. If the lining is thin, then it is better to place the bars more often, this will give the structure additional rigidity. The distance may be different if the length of the walls does not allow maintaining the same pitch of the elements.
FEATURE 2: If there are openings, a block must be secured around the perimeter. If we're talking about O doorways, then it is better to mount two racks at a time to strengthen the system. It is advisable to mount guides at the top and bottom.

FEATURE 3: when used, the thickness of the bar must be no less than the thickness thermal insulation material. The most commonly used option is 50x50 mm or 50x40 mm.
FEATURE 4: When purchasing material, pay attention to its moisture content. It should be no more than 15%. Raw elements may become deformed or crack when dry, so they should not be used.

Draw an approximate diagram of the sheathing with the pitch of the elements and their location. This will allow you to accurately calculate required quantity material and do not buy an extra bar.

FEATURE 5: insulation is calculated based on the area on which it will be mounted;
FEATURE 6: fasteners are selected based on the type of base. Dowels are needed for concrete and brick quick installation, self-tapping screws or nails are used for wood.

The second stage - preparation of the bar

The finished material must be prepared accordingly.

The work instructions look like this:

STEP 1: The material should be placed for a couple of days in the room that will be finished. This will allow the bar to acclimatize so that its temperature and humidity are the same as in the room.
STEP 2: elements are treated with an antiseptic composition. This can be done using a regular brush, treating all surfaces in order. You can do it differently and make a trough from the boards, which is covered with film. An antiseptic is poured there, and the block is simply dipped, This option provides the highest quality protection.

STEP 3: While the products are drying, you can prepare the walls. To do this, markings along the width of the racks are applied to the surface. The work is done using a pencil and a level so that the lines are straight. This will allow you to clearly see what the structure will look like and will simplify your work; you will not need to be distracted by monitoring the correct position of the elements;

STEP 4: measurements are taken to determine the length of the bars. It is better to do this in several places, since the walls or ceiling may be uneven;

Do not forget to leave gaps of 5-10 mm so that the block does not rest against or deform due to changes in temperature and humidity.

STEP 5: cutting the block is done with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Here it is important to correctly mark the elements and cut them perpendicularly so that the ends are even. It is also advisable to treat the cut areas with an antiseptic so that the bar is completely protected from moisture and pests.

The third stage - installation of the frame

Let's figure out how to make a sheathing for the lining with your own hands.

The workflow looks like this:

STEP 1: First you need to drill holes in the block. The diameter depends on what kind of fastener will be used. At the same time, remember that it is better to make holes for the screws to make them easier to tighten. The fasteners are located in increments of 40-50 cm, the minimum distance from the edge is 30 mm.

STEP 2: Mounting points are also marked on the wall, and drilling is done if necessary. For work, a hammer drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter is used. Remember that for reliable fastening, the screw or dowel must penetrate the surface at least 50 mm. See also article.

STEP 3: if the unevenness on the wall or ceiling is very significant, then it is easier to secure the block with the help of hangers. They are located along a line every 50 cm and are fixed perpendicular to the sheathing. The price of such fasteners is low, so the project costs will increase slightly.
STEP 4: when fastening, the ends of the suspension are bent to the bar, after which it is leveled and fixed in the desired position. This option is very convenient because of its simplicity and accuracy, so you can level any base very quickly.

Impossible to arrange roofing system without lathing, the laying of which is carried out on top rafter legs. It serves as a direct attachment point for the finishing roof sheathing.

What is the roof made of?

Thanks to the roof, the building not only receives a decorated appearance: she is also entrusted with protective function to prevent rain, snow, heat and cold from getting inside the ceilings. In addition, the roof significantly reduces the impact waste water on walls and basement surfaces, which significantly increases their service life. Most often, there are 2 or 4 slopes on the roof of a building: the second design involves several arrangement options.

The composition of a conventional gable roof includes:

Rafters. To connect these vertical or horizontal supports, they usually use gusset equipped with bolts and brackets.
Mauerlat. This beam is located in a horizontal position. He relies on individual elements rafters
Overhangs. This is what the lower sections of the rafters are called.
Horse. It is located on top of the structure, in the area where the rafters meet.
Lathing, counter-lattice. Basic parts that ensure the installation of roofing materials and insulation.
Waterproofing and insulating materials. With their help, warm attics are equipped.
Roof decking. Can be hard or soft.

In general, roofing is divided into cold and warm subspecies. The first option involves laying thermal insulation in attic space: the roof in this scheme is not insulated. The second method involves laying insulation and waterproofing. This approach is mainly used for the design of attic residential floors.

Purpose of sheathing in a roofing system

Thanks to the lathing, the following tasks are achieved:

The roofing materials are securely fastened.
In this case, the space between the roof and the insulation is well ventilated: this is especially important for adjacent areas of warm and cold roofing layers.
It is convenient to attach a layer of insulation and waterproofing to the roof sheathing.
The rafter system receives protection from excessive load in cases of heavy snowfall.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before lathing the roof, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

First grade wooden beam, 6 m long, without knots or other defects. The cross section is selected depending on what finishing material will be used. For metal tiles you will need products with a cross section of 50x50 mm, metal roofing equipped with timber 60x40 mm. Ceramic tiles laid on timber with square section 75x75.
You need to know what kind of board goes on the roof sheathing, what the tolerances are. Edged board 25x100 mm, 6 m long. Small flaws in the form of rare knots are allowed here. In some cases, it is necessary to replace the boards with OSB boards, plywood or chipboard panels.
Hacksaw, chainsaw.
Polyurethane foam.
Hammer, perforator.
Large bolts and nuts. Fastening is also carried out with staples and nails.
Construction level, roulette.

Types of roofing sheathing

When studying the question of how to properly frame a roof, it is important to know about the most popular system designs. Choice suitable option lathing directly depends on the roofing material used.

There are two main types of lathing:

Solid. When laying the beams, a gap of 10 mm is assumed. Design continuous sheathing usually under soft tiles, roll laying, flat slate or metal tiles. To give the roof additional reliability, the structure is fixed on top eaves overhangs, as well as at the junction areas of the slopes. When choosing this sheathing, you need to prepare for a significant consumption of material.
Sparse. The gap between the timber in this case can reach several centimeters, which is very convenient for installation natural tiles, metal sheets and wave slate.

We install the roofing sheathing with our own hands

After the rafter system is fully equipped, a careful measurement of the roof is carried out. This is done using a rope, which simplifies the measurement of diagonals. When comparing two indicators, it is desirable that they do not differ from each other by more than 20 mm. If this tolerance is exceeded, subsequent work may encounter certain difficulties. Next, vapor barrier and insulation are laid in the form mineral wool or other suitable material.

The roof sheathing is assembled with your own hands on top of the previously laid waterproofing film, when laying it there is an overlap of 15 cm. It is most convenient to mount the sheets from the top and down, taking the rafters as the directions. Suitable for attaching film construction stapler. The slats are stuffed on top of the rafters to create a counter-lattice.

It's important not to forget about ventilation gaps, separating the film and the stacked roofing material. Simply put, when laying down film, it is important to leave some slack. The same method is used to separate the film and insulation. To simplify the task of how to properly make a roof sheathing, a sheathing template is used, which is designed to strictly adhere to design parameters.

If a soft roof is being laid, then the installation of the sheathing elements is carried out using the method of leveling and joining. To avoid subsequent deformation, solid structure need to be fastened with special care, using at least two nails on each beam.

How to attach under rolled material

To lay rolled sheets you will need roofing sheathing solid type, made of beams and boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. In this case, the flooring must be laid tightly, without cracks. The sheathing pitch is chosen to be no less than 15 cm, otherwise the roofing material will begin to deform. It is important to achieve an ideal smoothness of the sheathing surface, with the obligatory recessing of the nail heads and screws deep into the wood.

How to make a soft roof

Installation of soft type roof sheathing is most common due to the high popularity of this roof. This material is inexpensive, and it is very easy to install. Here you will also need to equip a continuous type of sheathing, which is equipped with a special calibrated board. This installation has a two-layer structure, ensuring maximum evenness of the joints.

Tongue boards and roofing plywood, which have undergone preliminary antiseptic impregnation, have proven themselves well in these conditions. To avoid damage soft roof on corner areas, the ends of the boards must be rounded.

Under the tiles

According to experts, it is tiled roofs that have the most optimal performance characteristics in terms of quality and durability. Usually these are single-layer structures, the sheathing for which is made of bars with a cross-section of at least 6 cm.

The laying step is based on the dimensions of the tiles used. Some situations require the creation of double sheathing from the same material. To achieve uniform fit of the tiles, it is necessary to build the most even plane of the structure. This implies using timber of the same size.

What is the difference between lathing for slate and metal tiles?

To arrange the sheathing, we can use one or two layers of laying. The first option involves the use of timber with a square cross-section of 50 mm. Optimal step in this case - 50 cm, with elements laid in a parallel direction to the ridge. If instead of the usual wavy slate If a unified profile is used, then the step can be increased to 80 cm, with an increase in the cross-section of the beam to 75 mm. The main thing is that there are at least three crossbars under each slate span.

The cornice is loaded the most in this design, so its thickness should be increased. Ridges and overhangs are decorated with continuous flooring. To achieve uniform load distribution and density of sheet laying, even beams are made 30 mm thicker than odd ones. In order for the structure to last as long as possible, before attaching the sheathing to the roof, all of it wooden parts needs to be processed special compounds fire-fighting and antiseptic action (more details: " "). To apply them you will need a paint brush: impregnation is carried out in two layers.

To test the quality of a fire-fighting substance, it is enough to chop off a small piece of treated wood and try to set it on fire. A well-protected material ignites only when it is exposed to an open flame: once it is removed, the substance immediately dies out.

Competent design and arrangement of the roof will be the key to how aesthetic beauty home and its protection from all external influences. At the same time, it is important to achieve good quality each individual part roofing structure. The lathing, despite its inconspicuousness, plays a very important role, so when arranging it it is important to comply with all necessary requirements and standards on how to make roof sheathing. Particular attention is paid to the selection of suitable building materials of appropriate quality.

Most materials are attached to enclosing structures not directly, but through an “intermediary.” This is both more convenient and, if necessary, simplifies repairs. In some cases, this installation method is mandatory technological condition. A specialized frame designed for such installations is called lathing. Further in the article we will talk about how the sheathing is installed, what it comes in, and what rules are used to calculate it.

Although the most common design in which lathing is used is pitched roofs, but there are other planes where it is satisfied. The most popular option is wooden sheathing, but metal structures are also available.

If we generalize all the cases when sheathing is installed, we can derive three large groups:

Roofing installation
Installation interior walls and partitions
Creation of ventilated, suspended and other decorative facades

As a rule, in the last two cases the sheathing really looks like a checkered structure. On the roof, the options can be very different.

The design of the supporting system is determined by the coating material used, and is calculated separately in each case.

Based on this principle, the following types can be distinguished:

The usual lathing pitch is usually within 20-40 cm between bars or boards
Sparse - when the distance between elements is 50-75 cm, sometimes more
Continuous sheathing - made of boards with a distance between them of up to 10 mm (the gap is made to avoid damage to the roof in case of swelling or drying of the boards). The dry plank is laid closely, sometimes a tongue-and-groove connection is made. Also sometimes a structure is made of solid sheet materials: OSB, moisture-proof chipboard or plywood

ADVICE! When constructing sheathing from boards, each of them is attached to each rafter with two nails along the edges. It is impossible to nail the boards with one nail in the center, since if they are twisted, the roofing decking may be damaged.

As a rule, the pitch of the sheathing depends on the size of the roofing material and its rigidity: the greater the length of its unit, the less often the beams or boards are placed.

It is also used when installing roofs that are curved or have a complex shape.

The thickness of the sheathing may vary. Sometimes the sheathing is done in two layers. At the same time bottom layer may be sparse, and the top one may be continuous. The first level is arranged parallel to the roof ridge, and the second can be located perpendicular to it, or diagonally.

It is also provided for the production of lathing in two layers when laying thick insulation - for example, foam plastic 100 mm thick. In this case, two 50x50 mm bars are placed sequentially across the rafters, one on top of the other.

Typically, the sheathing is made from timber 50x50, 50x60, 60x60 or 75x75 mm, and also from boards from 20 to 50 mm. In this case, the width of the board should not exceed 150 mm, since wider material is prone to increased deformation under the influence of dampness and temperature.

The calculation of the sheathing is carried out together with the rafter system, since both the pitch of the rafters and its cross-section will depend on the pitch of the rafters.

Important information! The length of fastening elements (nails or self-tapping screws) is taken as double the thickness of the sheathing material). For example, for a 50x50 beam it is 100 mm. The sheathing is fastened to each roof rafter.

Boards and beams should not have protruding knots or other defects, and for fragile materials coverings, like slate - and significant recesses.

Under the roof from roll materials joints unedged boards they are sheathed with galvanized iron, and in places of bends and junctions the corners of the board or beam are rounded so as not to damage the elastic coating.

Also, the outer 30 cm of the sheathing in the area where the roof overhangs is sheathed with solid pieces of metal.

The work order is usually as follows:

On the outer rafters, mark the location of the beams or sheathing boards
Along the entire slope, using a cable, measure the attachment points of beams or boards

Example of continuous sheathing

Important information! It rarely happens that wooden sheathing made of solid boards or timber. As a rule, the standard length of lumber is much shorter than the length of the slope. Therefore, the sheathing elements have to be spliced along their length. This is done in such a way that the joint of the timber falls on the rafter; the edges of both spliced pieces are fastened with nails. It is important to ensure that the joints in adjacent horizontal rows are offset and fall on different bars. To do this, the lumber is cut to the appropriate length.

Regardless of what the main distance between the roof sheathing is, in the places of valleys and valleys (concave joints of slopes), it is arranged solid, possibly using sheet material, sometimes tin
For elements passing through the roof - various parapets or chimneys - their own sheathing is installed, which is calculated separately. For example, for chimney– it must be located at a distance of at least 150 in any part of it, and without thermal insulation for ceramic pipes– and 250 mm

ADVICE! The sheathing should be installed in dry weather, immediately before laying the roofing material. Wet beams or boards will definitely begin to warp

Immediately after installing the sheathing, a layer of insulation is laid, if one is designed, and a waterproofing film is attached on top of the beams using a stapler.

With advance calculations and cutting of lumber, installation of the sheathing is greatly accelerated and takes less effort. Therefore on preliminary preparation It’s worth spending extra time and doing it well.

Installation of wooden sheathing: distance between fasteners, pitch, thickness

601) Installing wooden sheathing is a simple matter if you know how to calculate the distance between the fasteners or the pitch, the thickness of the beams themselves. And that's exactly what it's about

Why do you need roof sheathing, what types are there, what material to choose?

It is impossible to equip a roofing system without sheathing, the laying of which is carried out on top of the rafters. It serves as a direct attachment point for the finishing roof sheathing.

What is the roof made of?

Thanks to the roof, the building not only receives a decorated appearance: it also has a protective function to prevent rain, snow, heat and cold from entering the ceilings. In addition, thanks to the roof, the impact of wastewater on walls and basement surfaces is noticeably reduced, which significantly increases their service life. Most often, there are 2 or 4 slopes on the roof of a building: the second design involves several arrangement options.

The composition of a conventional gable roof includes:

Rafters. To connect these vertical or horizontal supports, a corner connection is usually used, equipped with bolts and brackets.
Mauerlat. This beam is located in a horizontal position. It rests on individual elements of the rafters.
Overhangs. This is what the lower sections of the rafters are called.
Horse. It is located on top of the structure, in the area where the rafters meet.
Lathing, counter-lattice. Basic parts that ensure the installation of roofing materials and insulation.
Waterproofing and insulating materials. With their help, warm attics are equipped.
Roof decking. Can be hard or soft.

In general, roofing is divided into cold and warm subspecies. The first option involves laying thermal insulation in the attic space: the roof in this scheme is not insulated. The second method involves laying insulation and waterproofing. This approach is mainly used for the design of attic residential floors.

Purpose of sheathing in a roofing system

Thanks to the lathing, the following tasks are achieved:

The roofing materials are securely fastened.
In this case, the space between the roof and the insulation is well ventilated: this is especially important for adjacent areas of warm and cold roofing layers.
It is convenient to attach a layer of insulation and waterproofing to the roof sheathing.
The rafter system receives protection from excessive load in cases of heavy snowfall.

What tools and materials will be needed

Before lathing the roof, you should prepare the following tools and materials:

First grade wooden beam, 6 m long, without knots or other defects. The cross section is selected depending on what finishing material will be used. For metal tiles you will need products with a cross section of 50x50 mm; a metal roof is equipped with 60x40 mm timber. Ceramic tiles are laid on a beam with a square section of 75x75.
Edged board 25x100 mm, 6 m long. Small flaws in the form of rare knots are allowed here. In some cases, it is necessary to replace the boards with OSB boards, plywood or chipboard panels.
Hacksaw, chainsaw.
Polyurethane foam.
Hammer, perforator.
Large bolts and nuts. Fastening is also carried out with staples and nails.
Construction level, tape measure.

Types of roofing sheathing

When studying the question of how to properly frame a roof, it is important to know about the most popular system designs. The choice of the appropriate lathing option directly depends on the roofing material used.

There are two main types of lathing:

Solid. When laying the beams, a gap of 10 mm is assumed. A continuous sheathing is usually constructed for soft tiles, roll laying, flat slate or metal tiles. To give the roof additional reliability, the structure is fixed on top of the eaves overhangs, as well as in areas where the slopes adjoin. When choosing this sheathing, you need to prepare for a significant consumption of material.
Sparse. The gap between the timber in this case can reach several centimeters, which is very convenient for laying natural tiles, metal sheets and corrugated slate.

We install the roofing sheathing with our own hands

After the rafter system is fully equipped, a careful measurement of the roof is carried out. This is done using a rope, which simplifies the measurement of diagonals. When comparing two indicators, it is desirable that they do not differ from each other by more than 20 mm. If this tolerance is exceeded, subsequent work may encounter certain difficulties. Next, vapor barrier and insulation is laid, in the form of mineral wool or other suitable material.

The roof sheathing is assembled with your own hands on top of the previously laid waterproofing film, when laying it there is an overlap of 15 cm. It is most convenient to mount the sheets from the top and down, taking the rafters as the directions. A construction stapler is suitable for attaching the film. The slats are stuffed on top of the rafters to create a counter-lattice.

It is important not to forget about the ventilation gaps separating the film and the roofing material being laid. Simply put, when laying down film, it is important to leave some slack. The same method is used to separate the film and insulation. To simplify the task of how to properly make a roof sheathing, a sheathing template is used, which is designed to strictly adhere to design parameters.

If a soft roof is being laid, then the installation of the sheathing elements is carried out using the method of leveling and joining. To avoid subsequent deformation, the solid structure must be fastened with special care, using at least two nails on each beam.

How to attach under rolled material

To lay rolled sheets, you will need a continuous roofing sheathing made from beams and boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm. In this case, the flooring must be laid tightly, without cracks. The sheathing pitch is chosen to be no less than 15 cm, otherwise the roofing material will begin to deform. It is important to achieve an ideal smoothness of the sheathing surface, with the obligatory recessing of the nail heads and screws deep into the wood.

How to make a soft roof

Tongue boards and roofing plywood, which have undergone preliminary antiseptic impregnation, have proven themselves well in these conditions. To avoid damage to the soft roof in corner areas, the ends of the boards must be rounded.

Under the tiles

What is the difference between lathing for slate and metal tiles?

To arrange the sheathing, we can use one or two layers of laying. The first option involves the use of timber with a square cross-section of 50 mm. The optimal step in this case is 50 cm, with the elements laid in a parallel direction to the ridge. If a unified profile is used instead of the usual corrugated slate, the pitch can be increased to 80 cm, with the section of the beam increasing to 75 mm. The main thing is that there are at least three crossbars under each slate span.

The cornice is loaded the most in this design, so its thickness should be increased. Ridges and overhangs are decorated with continuous flooring. To achieve uniform load distribution and density of sheet laying, even beams are made 30 mm thicker than odd ones. In order for the structure to last as long as possible, before attaching the sheathing to the roof, all its wooden parts must be treated with special fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds (for more details: “How and with what to treat the rafters and sheathing - choose an antiseptic”). To apply them you will need a paint brush: impregnation is carried out in two layers.

Proper design and arrangement of the roof will be the key to both the aesthetic beauty of the house and its protection from all external influences. At the same time, it is important to achieve good quality of each individual part of the roof structure. The sheathing, despite its inconspicuousness, plays a very important role, therefore, when arranging it, it is important to comply with all the necessary requirements and standards on how to make a roof sheathing. Particular attention is paid to the selection of suitable building materials of appropriate quality.

Roof sheathing: how to fasten it, installation on the roof, how to make a proper roof sheathing with your own hands