Lath structures on the ceiling are used for decoration various rooms, both residential and public. The kitchen is no exception. The popularity of this material is explained by its durability, moisture resistance, low weight of the structure, ease of installation and ease of maintenance. If you have minimal construction skills and the necessary set of tools, you can install a slatted ceiling with your own hands.

It’s not at all difficult to make such a ceiling

Slat ceiling design

This is a type of suspended ceiling. The design consists of aluminum, plastic or steel panels and a special system for attaching slats to the wall. The panels are made from steel, aluminum or plastic tape with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.7 mm, a width of 50 to 300 mm and a length of up to 6 m. It is possible to order according to custom sizes, then the length of the slats is made accurate to the millimeter.

They begin to be installed last: when the finishing of the floor has already been completed and the plastered walls have dried.

Types of slats

Slats (panels) can be selected to suit every taste

The surface can be matte or glossy, smooth or perforated, and can imitate leather or wood in texture. The shape of the panels can be rectangular or rounded, and a great variety of colors and shades are offered. The slats can be placed lengthwise or crosswise, as well as diagonally. This will help visually enlarge or reduce the room. So, if it is long and narrow, it is better to place it horizontally (across) the ceiling. Otherwise, the room will seem even longer.

Ceiling designs vary of this type interfluve junctions, of which there are several varieties. When the joint is open, gaps about 1.5 cm wide remain. In this case, the installation is completed by attaching the decorative profile to these gaps. If the joint is closed, the slats overlap each other. Another type is a joint without gaps, when they are installed close to each other.

What is a suspension system

It consists of a universal support rail (other names: comb, stringer, traverse), adjustable suspension and corner profile. The bus is a galvanized steel strip with slotted latches into which the slats are installed and secured there (snapped into place). The suspension consists of a bracket and a rod. The bracket is attached to the bus, and the rod is attached to the main ceiling. The distance to the hanging system is usually 5-12 cm. You can determine this distance yourself; it will depend on the availability of communications and your personal preferences.

: step by step guide

If you have never watched how editing is done, the video should be useful to you:

To work, you will need the following tools: a hammer drill, a drill, metal scissors, a construction level, a tape measure, a ruler, a marker, sharp knife, screws and dowels.

Step one: installing guides around the perimeter of the room

First, mark the starting point with a marker. The distance must be at least 5 cm from the existing one. Using a building level, move this mark around the perimeter of the room (step up to 1 m). Draw a line. Measure the length of the wall using the marks you made and cut the required piece of the corner profile. The standard profile length is three meters. It is cut with metal scissors.

Step two: installing hangers

Step three: fastening the support rails

Tires are the basis of the design

It is better that the distance between the traverses does not exceed 1-1.2 m. Install the tires perpendicular to the slats at the same level with the profile nailed around the perimeter. Screw them to the hangers using a screwdriver. It is very important at this stage to avoid errors in order to mount an even structure. After all, the appearance of the entire ceiling depends on its evenness.

At a short distance The tire can be mounted not on hangers, but directly on the base.

The distance between the profile and the tire is 1 cm. If it turns out to be shorter than necessary, it can be added. To do this, the suspension is fixed at the very beginning of the next traverse. The second traverse is screwed end-to-end with the first.

Step four: installing the ceiling

Remove the slats from the protective film and cut them to fit the room. The length should be 0.3-0.5 cm less than the distance between opposite walls. They are carefully inserted into the guides and snapped along the entire length onto the traverse clamps. Each subsequent one is installed next to the previous one. The height of the tires can be adjusted, if necessary, by changing the depth of screwing in the screws (if the tire is mounted on the ceiling) or adjustable hangers. If the last rail does not fit in width, it needs to be cut. To do this, mark the required distance along the entire length of the panel and draw a line along the ruler with a knife. Bend and unbend until it breaks. If the length is large, it is better to make transverse cuts and break off each part separately. After installing the cut panel, secure it with wooden spacers or pieces of profile.

Don't forget about the baseboard. This is a decorative element that will give a complete and neat look and hide the gaps between the structure and the walls. If the kitchen is not smooth walls, choose a wide plinth, it will make the structure visually smoother.

Looks modern, original and stylish

It is very easy to care for these ceilings. They are made of plastic or metal and are not afraid of water, so they can be washed with a sponge dipped in soapy water.

The aluminum version is not afraid of changes in temperature and humidity, therefore it is perfect choice for the kitchen. Its installation is quite simple, does not require surface preparation, hides the shortcomings of the existing ceiling, and looks very aesthetically pleasing.

When choosing an option from slats for the kitchen, it is better to give preference to high-quality hangers with a protective film. It protects against dirt and moisture, low and high temperatures and various contaminants. Given that correct installation it will retain its appearance for a long time. Many men even like the installation. They compare this activity to assembling a construction set.

Photo examples of design

A classic example for the kitchen will harmoniously fit into an interior made in any style.

A color example allows you to achieve an unusual visual effect

Two-level can be used for zoning a room

Two-level looks especially impressive

Installing slats in different directions, you can visually divide the room into several zones

Spot lighting is the most common option

A ceiling made of slats can be not only straight, but also curved. In this case, it can be used to hide differences in height on the ceiling.

Curvilinear allows you to hide unsuccessful layout features or external communications elements

The curvilinear system, lighting features and well-chosen colors turned the view into a very important decorative element.

Original ideas can be realized by combining different materials for finishing

Hoping to make a spectacular curtain for the kitchen with their own hands, novice needlewomen quite rightly choose ones that are simple in design and execution.

How to sew curtains with hinges with your own hands: step-by-step photos and video master classes

Drywall as a building material is very good. It is installed quickly, with virtually no “wet” processes. You can create any designs.

Sealing drywall seams: a detailed description of the process with video instructions

Have you decided to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? With minimal construction skills, this task is easily accomplished. Even if you've never worked.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling installation

Installation slatted ceiling doing it yourself is a rather complicated procedure, but if you follow the instructions and approach the matter with all seriousness, then everything will certainly work out. Much depends on the geometric shape of the room - if the room is rectangular, then there should be no problems with installation at all.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling installation

A little history

For the first time, aluminum slatted ceilings appeared in Russia at the end of the last century, that is, around the time Russians learned about “European-quality renovation.” The first ceilings were made in Germany and, of course, were quite expensive.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling installation

Despite this, the demand for them increased and many craftsmen, who appreciated all the advantages of the design, began to widely use it when renovating a kitchen or bathroom.

Pay attention! Modern (mostly white) models are equipped with decorative inserts, which allow not only to ennoble the room, but also not to disturb the interior design.

Advantages of slatted ceilings

Advantages of slatted ceilings

1. The slatted ceiling is resistant to increased humidity and temperature, therefore, it is suitable for installation in the bathroom, kitchen, etc.
2. It is environmentally friendly, so aluminum slats can be installed even in a nursery.
3. Suspended ceiling - you can use it to level the surface if necessary.
4. The installation procedure is extremely simple and does not require special skills or preparation.
5. Finally, such a ceiling looks very attractive.

Design Features

The slats are attached to a steel traverse - a toothed profile. There are several types of slats and each has its own traverses. It is important that both are from the same manufacturer - this way there will be no gaps or cracks left after installation.

Installation of slatted ceiling

Installation of slatted ceiling

The ceiling is installed after plastering the room and installing the windows. If electrical cables were laid along the ceiling, they must be secured so that they do not interfere with work.

Stage 1. Measurements

You need to start with measurements. If for any reason you doubt yourself, then it is better to entrust this to a professional measurer. His work will cost about 500 rubles.

Construction and installation of slatted ceilings

Stage 2. Buying everything you need

The work will require the following tools:

• metal scissors;
• building level;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• laser level.

In addition, for installation you will need a number of materials:

The key points when choosing panels (slats) are dimensions.

1. The width of the products varies between 10 cm and 20 cm, but it is better to buy 10 cm slats - they are the most popular.
2. The length can be 3 m or 4 m. If none of the options suits you, then you should find a company that provides the services of a machine for cutting panels.
3. The reliability of the entire structure directly depends on the thickness of the slats. The optimal option is ½ mm, at which the strength of the ceiling will be high and the cost will be acceptable.

Types of aluminum slats

Types of aluminum slats

1. Closed slats vaguely resemble wooden lining.
2. Open slats can only be installed in rooms with a height of more than 5 m, so such products are unlikely to be suitable for a bathroom or kitchen. Installed with a small gap - no more than 1 cm.
3. Products with inserts are the same open, but there are gaps in in this case disguised with decorative aluminum strips.

The color of the slatted ceiling depends on the taste of the owner and the design of the room.

Pay attention! To repaint the ceiling a different color, enamel paint is used - one layer will be enough. To make the ceiling mirror, you need to buy chrome aluminum slats.

It is typical that slats should be sold in a special protective film. You should not buy products that do not have this film.

Slatted suspended ceiling

Stage 3. Cost calculation

The price of the slatted ceiling includes the following components:

• traverses (or tires, as they are also called) - gear strips to which, as mentioned earlier, panels are attached;
• the plinth is used purely for decorative purposes - it closes the resulting gap between the ceiling and the wall;
• suspension – regular steel wire, fixed on the ceiling; Traverses are attached to the suspensions, which is why the slatted ceiling is called suspended;
• lamps - you should take care of them in advance, because after installing the ceiling they will be difficult to install.

Stage 4. Installation

Step 1. You need to install guides (stringers) on each wall. The location of the future ceiling is indicated - it drops about 20 cm relative to the old one. The line must be strictly horizontal, so when marking, you can use a laser level. Profiles will be attached along this line.

Guides must be installed on each wall

Step 2. The profiles need to be attached to the line, and holes must be made in the appropriate places. Dowels are driven in there and screws are screwed in. As a result, the profile is attached to the wall every half meter, the horizontalness is checked using the mounting level.

Pay attention! In the corners, the guides are connected as shown in the image.

Step 3. Upon completion of installation of the perimeter, hangers are installed. The distance between them should not exceed 1 m. The hangers are fastened with screws and dowels, after which they are checked with a level.

Step 4. Traverses are attached to the hangers. In this case, you need to ensure that the traverses are flush with the guides at an angle of 90ᵒ to the slats. The structure must be level, because this affects the appearance of the future ceiling.

If the traverses are too short, they can be extended by connecting two adjacent products end-to-end. Once the installation of the traverses is complete, the assembly of the ceiling itself begins.

Step 5. The slats are cleaned of the protective film and cut to fit the size of the room. Then the slats are inserted into the guides along the entire perimeter, after which the crossbars snap into place. As a result, such a surface should emerge.

It is worth noting that many are afraid not of the installation of the slatted ceiling itself, but of its repair. For this reason, when assembling, you need to try not to deform the slats (and they, by the way, are quite easily deformed). If any damage does occur, it is better to replace the entire panel.

Video - Assembling a slatted ceiling

Mirror ceiling made of aluminum slats

This ceiling consists of the same slats coated with a special reflective substance (often chrome). In addition to aesthetics, mirrored ceilings have the following advantages:

• ease of care;
• the illusion of increased space, which is especially important in small apartments;
• a wide range of textures and shades;
• no difficulties when installing lamps.

Having familiarized yourself with the main advantages, you can get to work.

Stage 1. Preparation

When purchasing mirror slats, you need to pay special attention to detail. Quality products covered with a special protective layer that prevents the formation of cracks, scratches and other damage. In addition to the slats themselves, the work will require:

Here is a list of necessary equipment:

• mounting level;
• dowels;
• electric drill;
• perforator;
• hacksaw for metal;
• cord;
• self-tapping screws

Stage 2. Marking

There is no need to specially prepare the ceiling plane before installation, but if finishing material goes away, it’s better to get rid of it.

A horizontal line is drawn along the entire perimeter (approximately 20 cm below the existing ceiling). If you plan to install spotlights, then wiring will be laid.

Stage 3. Frame assembly

Attaching the racks to the tire

Step 1. Using the markings made, guides for the ceiling are installed. Fastening is carried out in the same way as when installing a conventional slatted ceiling.

Pay attention! It is advisable to use clamping mechanisms for suspensions, since they are easily adjusted if necessary.

Step 3. The stringers are connected flush with the hangers. To do this, you can pull the cord diagonally.

Stage 4. Ceiling assembly

Installation of aluminum slatted ceiling panels

When assembling the mirror ceiling, do not remove the protective film. Segments required length(about 3 mm less than the distance between the walls) are cut directly into the film.

Pay attention! Only the edges of the slats are cleaned.

Otherwise, the technology for installing the mirror structure is no different from that described above.

As a conclusion

Modern slatted ceilings are distinguished by their reliability and aesthetics, and recently they are increasingly used exclusively for decoration. Aluminum slats are very popular because they are not subject to corrosion and do not burn, so they can be installed in rooms with high fire safety requirements.

Mirror ceiling made of slats

Finally - one more good advice. Before buying a ceiling, you need to think about whether it is advisable to lose 20 cm of free space for it. Perhaps the height is already small, and a slatted ceiling (if it is not mirrored) will reduce it not only visually, but also physically.

But still the suspended ceiling has a lot positive qualities, therefore, in most cases such minor shortcomings are not paid attention to.

Step-by-step instructions for installing and assembling a slatted ceiling with your own hands

When decorating the interior of residential premises, many people prefer slatted ceilings. The popularity of such designs is explained by high quality, practical, performance characteristics, a wide variety of textures and textures. Installation will not be difficult even for novice craftsmen. The main thing is to adhere to the technology and sequence of work. As clear example Thematic videos are presented showing the assembly of the slatted ceiling.

How to assemble a slatted ceiling?

Advantages of slatted ceilings

The slatted ceiling is suitable for interior decoration of bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, office centers, swimming pools, garages. The high degree of moisture resistance of the material allows it to be used for arranging verandas, gas stations, and summer areas. How beautiful the slatted ceiling looks in design can be seen in videos on interior design.

Advantages of rack structures:

• resistance to temperature changes;
• moisture resistance;
• long service life;
• simple installation, quick installation;
• ease of care;
• versatility.

The slatted ceiling is not afraid of leaks due to the complete tightness of the structure. Each rail fits tightly to the other. Before installation, the rough ceiling surface does not need to be plastered or puttied. It is enough to dismantle the previous coating.

The main advantage is the simple installation of slatted ceiling structures, as you will see by studying the video materials.

Important! If you plan to install a ceiling in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to pre-treat the rough ceiling with an antifungal compound.

Installation of slatted ceilings is carried out after completion finishing wall surfaces.

Aluminum suspended slatted ceilings are the most in demand. Aluminum fits well into any interior concept, has dust-repellent properties, is moisture resistant, and is easy to clean from dirt. Aluminum panel in case of adjusting the slats, it is easy to cut to the desired size. Ceiling installation is shown in the video.

Features of the slatted ceiling

The slatted ceiling consists of ceiling panels(slats), which are made from sheets 0.4–0.7 mm thick (steel, aluminum, plastic), 5–30 cm wide, 3–6 m long. You can place an order for production ceiling structure according to individual measurements. They cut the panels to the required size on their own, using metal scissors.

Composition of the suspension system: load-bearing rails (stringer, traverse), corner profiles, adjustable suspensions. Stringer – galvanized steel profile with “teeth”, for which the ceiling strips are attached. Each type of panel has its own stringer.

Important! To avoid gaps when installing the ceiling structure, it is recommended to purchase traverses and slats from the same company.

The suspension has brackets that are fixed to the traverse, and a rod that will be attached to the base surface. The most convenient for work is an adjustable suspension, which allows you to perfectly level the surface of the ceiling structure. When performing installation, it is quite possible to determine the distance to the suspension system and the main surface of the base base yourself.

The slats are connected to each other by intermediate profiles and corners

The rail is fixed to the base ceiling slab using a system of hangers and rails with special fasteners for profiles.

All main elements of the slatted ceiling structure are made from aluminum using cold stamping technology. The rail is painted with powder paints that protect the structure from negative factors.

Types of river ceilings

The ceiling panel (slat) can be perforated, rounded, rectangular, matte, glossy, and can have different textures and colors, which will allow you to choose the slatted ceiling to suit any interior style. Panels and decorative inserts of the same color scheme create a harmonious space.

The perforated rail provides better sound insulation, improves ventilation

The design of suspended slatted ceilings is determined by the type of panels (open, closed type). At open version There are gaps between the slats approximately 0.15 mm wide. Installation of the ceiling structure is completed by fixing decorative inserts in places where gaps form. Installation of a slatted ceiling can be done without gaps. At closed joints the panels overlap each other and are secured with tongues. No inserts required.

When choosing slats, pay attention to their size:

1. The panels are produced three to four meters long. If you need to purchase the right size, check before purchasing if there is a cutting machine.
2. The panel can have a width of 10-20 cm. The best option for small rooms is 10-centimeter slats.
3. In order for the ceiling to have sufficient strength and hold its shape well, the lath must have a thickness of at least 0.5 mm.

Installation, diagram of the rack ceiling structure

To correctly install a slatted ceiling on your own, we recommend watching the video before starting work. Installation is not particularly difficult even for novice craftsmen. Will be given detailed instructions and a diagram that will help you install the slatted ceiling according to all the rules.

Before you begin installation, you need to prepare:

• hydraulic level;
• pliers;
• pencil;
• screwdriver;
• scissors for cutting metal.

Tools

Installation of a slatted suspended ceiling can be done at any distance from the base one. Adjustable hangers are used. Rack hanging ceiling systems can even be mounted end-to-end. The gap will be 0.4 cm, which will be equal to the thickness of the tire.

Installation begins with inspecting the base base and marking for installation of the guide rail. Using a hydraulic level, mark the location of the future ceiling along the entire perimeter, retreating 10–15 cm from the base. Draw a horizontal line, as shown in the video, which is a guideline for attaching the guide profiles. The starting and ending points of the line must be the same.

The standard length of profiles is 3 m. Using scissors for cutting metal, you can achieve the desired length. How to cut the panel is shown in the video. After marking, the profile is installed. Measure the length of the wall and cut the profile to the required size. If there are no holes in the profile, they are drilled with a drill. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 45–50 mm from the wall surface, the subsequent ones – at 40–55 cm each.

A profile is applied to the marked line and holes for dowels are drilled in all walls. The profile is “seated” on self-tapping screws, fixing it end-to-end on the internal corners, and on the external ones at an angle of 45 degrees.

Installation of hangers

Use a marker to mark where the traverses will be fixed using a tape measure. The first mark is applied at a distance of 35 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 80–95 cm. The suspension is fixed with hardware. Check the position with a hydraulic level.

The next stage is fixation and fastening of the supporting rails. In order for the structure to be perfectly smooth, errors must not be allowed. It is permissible to attach the stringer directly to the rough surface at a small distance from the base.

Adjustable suspension

The stringer is installed perpendicular to the panels, at the same level as the profile, which is fixed around the perimeter. The support rail is fastened to the hangers using a screwdriver. Between the stringer and corner profile leave a gap of 1 cm. If the stringer is short, the suspension is fixed at the beginning of the traverse. The next stringer is attached end-to-end with the previous one.

After installing the support rail, especially if an adjustable hanger was used, use a tape measure to check how level the stringer is installed. All elements must be positioned horizontally, parallel to the line axes X, Y, Z.

Installation process

Before installing the slatted ceiling structure, prepare slats of the required length by first taking measurements. Measure the distance between the wall surfaces transversely to the axis where the traverses are located. Use a marker to draw a line on inner surface strip along which the slats will be cut. Use scissors to cut off curved corners. Along the notch, bending and unbending the panel, remove the excess piece.

The panel is freed from the protective film and cut to the required size. The rail is inserted into the guides and snaps into the traverse clamps until a characteristic click is heard. Each subsequent plank must be installed next to the previous one.

The height of the traverse can be adjusted by changing the depth of screwing in the hardware, but only if the stringer is attached to the base base. An adjustable suspension will help you change the height.

If the last panel does not fit into the remaining space, it is cut to the required size. Deep cutting marks are applied along the entire length with a knife. Perpendicular cuts are made on the section to be removed. You need to cut the panel extremely carefully, trying not to damage it. The rail enters the profile with a cutting part, the other end of the bar is attached to the tongues of the traverse.

Important! The penultimate panel (rail) should be 13 mm shorter than the others.

Result of work

Installation of slatted suspended structures involves the installation of inserts, if they are included in the kit. The finished look of the structure will be given by plinths. They will hide the joints between the wall surfaces and the ceiling. At uneven walls use wide baseboards, as shown in the video.

Subtleties of installing a rack ceiling

The variety of materials for finishing ceilings is great: modern market. They differ significantly in features, advantages and disadvantages, and price. Can be selected for finishing works the most budget option: whitewash it, cover it with foam plastic, or, conversely, spend a considerable amount on fashionable 3D compositions. This article discusses the original method of finishing ceilings - slatted.

Peculiarities

The appearance of slatted ceilings was indicated quite recently, but they have already won the love of many Russians. The explanation for this is their high strength, easy operation, durability, which makes installation of ceilings accessible to everyone.

The advantages of slatted ceilings include:

• moisture resistance, which allows you to install them in the bathroom, bathhouse, laundry room, kitchen, where high humidity often occurs;
• thanks to the use of non-combustible materials as coating, the ceilings are protected from fire;
• saving electrical energy: since the surface layer of slatted ceilings reflects light, it is therefore possible to use lighting of lower power;
• environmentally friendly materials, so no hazardous substances are released into the environment;
• easy maintenance of ceilings. To clean them, wiping with a damp cloth is sufficient;

• the strength of the materials used, making them suitable for outdoor spaces;
• simplicity installation work;
• aesthetics of ceilings;
• durability - service life reaches up to 50 years, and warranty period they only have 20 years;
• it is possible to replace damaged areas without dismantling the supporting parts;
• the suspended ceiling looks attractive and stylish.

It should be noted that the rack structure is a suspended structure. This makes it possible to level the ceiling surface without using special compounds, for example, plaster.

Also, under such a ceiling you can easily hide house wires, and this is an important point.

There are practically no disadvantages to rack structures. The only thing that can be attributed to them is that repair work is not carried out in a very practical manner. If one panel breaks during operation, you will have to disassemble the entire coating to replace the defect. Another drawback: when installing a slatted suspended structure in any room, its height will slightly decrease. This is an insignificant disadvantage if you do not place any engineering devices under the structure.

Construction device

The design of the suspended aluminum ceiling allows the device to be securely fixed and mounted on ceiling slabs.

The ceiling consists of the following main components:

• A metal alloy strip is the front covering of the surface. The springy design of the slats contributes to the formation of connections that are durable and reliable;
• The comb (traverse, stringer) looks like a bent channel profile with teeth. Small elements the slats pass through the groove, and the comb is attached to suspension springs through the profile. It comes in aluminum and steel, 1.5 mm thick;

• The interstitial insert is used to seal the strips. It is chosen tone-on-tone with a strip or with a contrasting design, thanks to this it becomes possible to use design work in decoration;
• An angular wooden profile is used to decorate the ceiling around the perimeter. It is not always possible to cut the strip exactly to length, and sometimes it is still possible to trim parts to width. To hide unevenness and errors, decor is often used; it is fixed to the wall.

Proper installation includes drawing up a layout of the room and determining the type of lighting. The installation of the suspension directly depends on the height of the lighting device. Most often, the hanging surface is a couple of centimeters lower than the ones used. lighting fixtures.

After drawing up the diagram, it is necessary to calculate the volume of materials for installing the ceiling panels. Here, an important role is played by the correct calculation of the length of each rail with which the coating will be mounted. Typically, manufacturers offer products of 3 and 4 meters. To cover ceilings in a small room, a 3 m long strip is perfect. In this case, repair work will be completed with a minimum amount of waste.

For a room with a large perimeter, slats 4 m long are used. Having drawn up a diagram of the room in advance, you can determine required quantity and the length of the parts.

The calculation of a suspended ceiling includes measuring the perimeter of the room, which corresponds to the entire length of the profile.

Step-by-step installation instructions

After all the calculations have been made and the necessary materials have been purchased To install the ceiling you should be armed with:

• construction knife;
• hammer;
• drill or hammer drill;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• level;
• scissors, hacksaw;
• pencil;
• tape measure, square.

In addition, dowels, overalls, safety glasses and gloves are required.

To install the slatted covering with your own hands, you need to mark the ceiling. To do this, it is enough to draw a perimeter for the profile surface. If the ceiling is horizontal, then you need to mark a horizontal line. This is where the comb will be installed.

For the installation of complex multi-level structures, the calculations are more complex. In this case, instead of a tape measure, a laser level is used for measurement. The possibility of making a mistake is excluded here.

Installation technology:

• cut metal parts according to the required cuts;
• drill holes on the profile covering if there are no ready-made holes on the profile for fastening the product.

It is also necessary to make fixing holes in the wall. For this you will need a drill or hammer drill. Then screws are fastened at 45-degree angles for the outer corners and end-to-end for the inner ones.

Guide parts are installed on the surface of the wall, marking the location of the future suspended structure. It should be 20 cm lower than the old one. The lines must be horizontal, for this they use laser levels. Profiles will be attached along these lines.

You need to install the suspension using dowels in the pre-drilled holes. In this case, be sure to check the correct location of the guide parts using a level. After this, you can begin attaching the panels. To do this, you need to sequentially cut a strip of a certain size.

Using a tape measure, you should mark the locations of the supporting busbars.

The first mark should be at a distance of 30 cm from the wall itself, and all the others should be parallel to each other every 90 cm.

Installation of a slatted ceiling with your own hands (instructions)

If renovation begins, the question arises of how to make an apartment with a modern interior while saving family budget. Many repairs can be done independently, if only you have the desire and patience.

Popular today is the ceiling made of decorative slats. Many apartment owners believe that it can only be installed in the bathroom. This is not true at all.

There are slats of various colors on the market, so any room in the apartment will sparkle in a new way and amaze with its uniqueness. The slatted ceiling has many advantages:

• Fungus and harmful microflora do not damage the coating.
• Mold and rust will never appear.
• It is light weight and fastens securely.
• Easy to care for: wipe from time to time with a damp cloth and any detergent.
• The material is not too expensive.
• The ceiling in the apartment does not need to be pre-leveled or specially prepared. Only the existing coating is removed.
• You can mount the suspended structure yourself.

A slatted ceiling is a structure consisting of aluminum, metal or plastic panels, which are also called slats.

For connections, special profiles and corners are used.

Calculate the required quantity before purchasing slats

If you decide to make a slatted ceiling, decide what type and color it will have, you need to make material calculations. You can't make a mistake.

1. The room is measured around the perimeter to find out the number of U-shaped profiles. It is needed for fixing on the walls so that the panels fit tightly against them.
2. To count the number of combs (stringers), start marking the ceiling. The stringers will be positioned perpendicular to the slats themselves. We take a step of 1 meter.
3. Finding total area room or bathroom will allow you to determine the number decorative covering for the future suspended ceiling.

After that, go get the material and necessary supplies. Take panels with a small margin.

Required tools for installation

To install a suspended slatted ceiling, you will need the following materials and tools. You need to take care of:

• Profiles, stringers, decorative panels.
• Elements for hanging.
• Hammer, drill, screwdriver.
• Markers, level, measuring instruments.
• Knife, scissors for cutting metal, pliers.
• Dowel-nails and self-tapping screws.

Marking the ceiling

Ceiling installation is done last, when all repair work has already been completed.

To make it beautiful ceiling covering, first mark the ceiling by drawing lines on it at the selected height. First, a line is drawn along the perimeter of the room at the attachment points of the U-shaped profile.

Here you should take into account the features of the ceiling. At horizontal surface installation will go faster and does not present any particular difficulties.

But with a multi-level ceiling you will have to work hard when marking. If nothing will be placed under the interceiling space, then the ceiling is raised to the maximum, with a gap of 5 cm. If lamps and various communications are to be installed, then the false ceiling and the real one should be located at a greater distance from each other.

When marking for stringers, the lines must be strictly parallel not only between these extensions, but also with the side walls. In relation to the ceiling slats - perpendicular, as well as to the end walls.

Fixing supporting profiles

Fixing load-bearing profiles requires accuracy and consistency of actions.

1. Using dowels, secure the profile. Holes are drilled at a distance of at least 50 cm. These are places for fastening. Moreover, 5 cm should remain undrilled from each edge. Work with a drill with outside profile so that burrs do not interfere with attaching it tightly to the wall.
2. We fix the hangers. They can be plate or wire. It is advisable to use adjustable hangers. This facilitates the process of leveling the ceiling surface. Along the edges of the ends, an indentation is made within 40 cm, in intervals the step is from 120 to 150 cm.
3. Lastly, stringers with grooves are attached. The slats are fixed on them. Select the correct length of these supporting elements. Keep an eye on the gap: from the stringer to the U-shaped profile there should be at least 1 cm. If it is made smaller, the panels will deform due to the temperature difference.

Assembling the slatted ceiling

When completing the final installation of a suspended slatted ceiling, a certain sequence is followed.

1. We prepare slats of appropriate sizes in advance. Their length should be 5 mm less than the distance from one profile to another so that the ends can be inserted without problems ceiling slats.
2. When assembling the ceiling, the rail must be inserted into the groove of the stringer. A correctly inserted element will make a click. This is a signal that the fixation was successful.
3. The last rail does not always correspond to the size of the remaining space. To cut it, you will need to make a deep furrow with a knife. The cuts must be perpendicular. The excess piece is then broken off by bending and unbending several times.
4. The ceiling will look neater if you leave the cut strip for last, inserting the outermost one into the stringers until it clicks.
5. All panels are installed diagonally. To install the last rail, the tactics are changed. The panel is moved to the side and the opposite edge is inserted into the groove. It snaps into place and is positioned correctly along the wall. After this, the panel is fixed until it clicks in the stringer.

Details of the installation of the slatted ceiling can be seen in the video.

A few important installation points

When planning the installation of a suspended ceiling made of slats, many important points are taken into account:

• Where will the joints be directed? IN narrow room the usual arrangement will not work. It is better to place the panels across. For a room shaped like a square, the stripes are applied diagonally. Small rooms benefit from lighting because the surface of the panels is able to reflect light.
• In a large room the panel length is not enough. You will have to splice with intermediate liners that hide the joints.
• If you place slats in the same room in different directions, zoning is ensured.
• You can install spotlights on the ceiling made of decorative slats. You will need to cut holes. A circle is drawn and the center is found. You need to make cuts from it as thin as possible, bending the resulting strips inward.

Conclusion

When performing work, you should not violate the integrity of the surface layer of the panel. Otherwise, with scuffs and scratches, the ceilings will not look presentable.

It is best to use decorative panels that have a protective film that protects the slats from damage. There are anodized slats on the market today. They are chemically polished, stronger and more durable. Of course, similar ceiling material costs much more. But the cost is compensated by the service life.

In fact, there are no particular difficulties in installing and assembling a suspended slatted ceiling - everything can be done with your own hands. The main thing is to choose high-quality panels and get acquainted with the recommendations.

The finished ceiling will become the real pride of the apartment owner.

Before installation, it is necessary to correctly determine the mounting locations of suspensions and stringers, taking into account the minimum distances indicated in the figure and the location of lamps, diffusers and other elements that will be mounted in the future ceiling in order to prevent them from intersecting with the stringer.

There are three ways to attach the stringer to the main ceiling (ceiling):
1. Directly with a self-tapping screw through the holes in the stringer, adjusting the level by the depth of screw tightening;
2. Using a self-tapping screw through a spring, if the length of the self-tapping screw is insufficient;
3. Using a spoke with an adjustment spring. It is possible to use knitting needles of various lengths. A knitting needle that is too long can be trimmed.

Before installing the first panel, it must be cut 5 mm shorter than the actual size of the room. The panel snaps onto the stringer with light pressure.

The first and second panels must be installed next to opposite walls.

The end panel often cannot fit entirely, it all depends on the size of the room. In such cases, it must be cut lengthwise. To do this, measure the distance from the wall to the interpanel profile next to the outer panel.

Transfer the obtained measurement results to the panel that will be trimmed. Note: For accuracy, you need to measure the distance in several places, as shown in the figure. Then connect the marked points along the ruler, thereby marking the cutting line.

Using a paint knife, use your hand to make a cut along the entire cutting line. If necessary, run the knife again to make a deeper cut.

Cut the part of the panel that will be cut off into 20-30cm pieces with metal scissors and break them off one by one by bending them in different directions.

Before installing the end profile, it is necessary to flatten the rolled edge at a distance of 1.5 cm from the end of the profile on both sides. This can be done using pliers or pliers. To avoid scratches, it is better to do this through a piece of cardboard or other soft material.

Install the cut panel together with the end profile; to tightly fix the panel in the end profile, use pieces of the end or interpanel profile; there should be a lot of such pieces left if you have previously installed slatted ceilings. These pieces are wedged between the upper and lower flanges of the end profile, thereby pressing the cut panel against the lower flange. The strength of this structural element is completed by the installed interpanel profile.

When the ceiling base is assembled, it is necessary to install the longitudinal and transverse level, and adjust it using adjusting springs, moving them along the spokes, or adjusting the depth of the screw. It depends on what method of fastening was used.

The panel, pre-cut to 3-5 mm, is first inserted with one end into the end profile until it stops. Having positioned the panel diagonally, we insert the second end into the opposite profile and push it to the required position of the panel. The interpanel profile is inserted between two installed panels. In order for it to fit into both end profiles, it needs to be bent slightly, without allowing it to break.

When the last few panels remain, there is not enough space to install them diagonally in the end profile.

If the size of the room allows, the panel can be bent a little so that it can easily fit into both end profiles. The length of the panel must exceed 2 meters.

Second way. You need to trim the panel by 1.5 cm, insert one end into the end profile until it stops. Then the second end should fit freely into the second profile. Align the panel symmetrically with respect to the two end panels.

Holes in the panel for the lamp, diffuser and other elements are cut as follows. If the diameter of the lamp allows it to fit into the panel, then a circle of the required size is drawn at this place. Then a cut is made along the circumference with a painting knife, and the resulting circle is divided into sectors by the same cuts. Carefully, separating one sector at a time by rocking, we will get an even hole for the lamp.

If it is necessary to place the lamp between two adjacent panels, two semicircles are cut out on the panels, and the interpanel profile is divided into two. The semicircles are cut out with the same painting knife. The installation sites for lamps and diffusers are reinforced in this way with additional stringers without hangers.

To install a 600x600 raster lamp, the lamp itself is suspended on separate hangers, and the cut panels are covered with an end profile. The installation locations of such lamps are reinforced with additional stringers.

The panel adjacent to the raster lamp can be bent rather than trimmed, preventing it from warping.

A slatted ceiling is a simple structure that consists of slats (can be made of aluminum, plastic or thin-walled metal), with a width of 50 to 200 millimeters and a length of up to six meters; load-bearing strips (called traverse, comb or stringer); wall skirting boards (can be in the form of a corner or a U-shaped profile); as well as various elements of fastening the traverse.

Such a ceiling can be of two types: open, when an inter-slat strip is installed between the slats, which can be five to ten times narrower in width than the main one; and closed, when the slats are adjacent to each other closely.

I would also like to note that by alternating slats and inter-slats with different colors you can get very interesting design solutions.

Installing a slatted ceiling with your own hands should not cause problems due to the ease of installation of the entire structure.

To install a slatted ceiling you will need:

1. Impact drill
2. Pliers
3. Construction pencil
4. Carpenter's knife
5. Hydraulic level
6. Hammer
7. Dowels
8. Metal scissors
9. Roulette

Installation of load-bearing structures (stringers)

Installation of a slatted suspended ceiling, like any other, begins with markings.

Using a hydraulic level, we mark the required height of the future ceiling. Then, stepping back from the wall at a distance of 30 cm, draw a line parallel to the wall, this will be the place for attaching the first comb. Parallel to this line, we draw the remaining lines for attaching the traverse at a distance of no more than 120 cm from each other (if the room is narrow and the length of the installed panel (slat) is no more than two meters, then you can get by with installation on wall plinths alone).

The choice of stringer mounts to the ceiling depends on how much distance you need to get between the main ceiling and the slatted ceiling. If you plan to install spotlights, then the space should be at least 15 cm for ease of installation of lamps.

And vice versa, if the height of the main ceiling is low, then the combs are installed directly on it. If you still need some space between the ceilings, then the stringers must be attached to the ceiling using adjustable springs.

The mounting distance of the hangers is no more than 1200 mm.

Installation of wall skirting boards

Once all the traverses are safely installed, you can begin installing the skirting boards.

They are attached directly to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws. The guideline for installing skirting boards should be the marks previously applied to the walls using a hydraulic level. When the installation of the skirting boards is completed, it is necessary to align the traverses in one plane using a level and keeping an eye on the installed skirting boards.

Installation of panels

After you have checked the correct installation of the stringers, and also checked the correct routing of electric lighting cables or other inter-ceiling communications, you can proceed directly to installing the panels.

To do this, you need to start installation from the wall near which the first whole (uncut) panel will be mounted. The length of the panel is taken 3-4 mm shorter than the measured distance from wall to wall. If mistakes were made during the installation of the traverse and some stresses arose in the plane of the panels, they can be corrected by adjusting the hangers.

Installation of inter-batten strips is carried out after complete installation of the main panels.

This video tutorial will help you more clearly understand all the features of installing a slatted suspended ceiling.

Installation features

There are no special differences from the installation of suspended ceilings.

When cutting holes for a lamp, it is recommended to use the segment method, then the hole will be smooth and neat. If you have some experience in installing plastic and suspended ceilings, then installing a slatted ceiling with your own hands will not cause you any difficulties

Aluminum profile rack ceiling - design and installation

Considering the topic of slatted ceilings, it is necessary to touch upon the concept of suspended ceilings in general. The name speaks for itself: they are suspended from the base base with an indentation from it.

Taking into account their decorative function, slatted suspended ceilings are also called false ceilings. Their popularity is based on a number of advantages, which are sometimes decisive:

• quick and easy assembly;
• no need to prepare the base;
• ease of solving the lighting issue;
• opportunity hidden installation communications;
• unlimited choice of design solutions;
• accessibility due to the widest range of options.

The disadvantages include the presence of space between the false ceiling and the base ceiling, which reduces the height of the ceilings in the room.

Advantages of slatted ceilings

Slatted - ceilings assembled from slats, long narrow panels.

• eurolining;
• wall panels (PVC, MDF);
• metal slats - aluminum, as a rule.

Each option is worthy of consideration.

But aluminum slatted ceilings are the most interesting. Let's focus on them.

Advantages of aluminum slatted ceilings:

• ease of installation;
• moisture resistance;
• fire safety;
• resistance to chemical and bacterial influences;
• maintainability;
• strength;
• accessibility;
• exclusivity of design.

Photo of slatted aluminum suspended ceiling.

Installation of aluminum slatted ceilings

The design of slatted suspended ceilings involves the use of several elements:

1. Aluminum panels (slats), width from 40 to 400 mm and length from 3 to 6 meters.
2. Inserts (narrow slats, 16 mm wide).
3. Support profile (tire, stringer, comb, 4 m long).
4. Suspensions (adjustable spring or universal).
5. End edging (wall corner or U-shaped profile).

Species and types

The panels come in different widths, colors, textures, design features: there are open type and closed.

This refers to differences in their shape.

Open type panels, with standard assembly, form 16 mm wide gaps between each other, into which a narrow insert must be inserted. If the insert is not installed, then through gaps will remain and the panels will not be firmly secured.

Closed type slats require installation with or without an insert.

And their shape determines alternate assembly, since each next edge overlaps the previous one.

There is another type of slatted ceilings - gapless, assembled without inserts. In fact, any panels can be assembled without gaps. Because this does not depend on their shape, but on the characteristics of the supporting busbar.

More details about the design elements,

Support rail

The supporting profile is a rigid steel structure.

It has a V or H-shape, in the upper part of which there are holes for the suspension hook. At the bottom there are clamping pins. The panels snap onto them. The type of ceiling being assembled depends on the location of the spikes and the distance between them.

When purchasing a slatted ceiling, it is important to pay attention to the specifics of the stringers. They must correspond exactly to the selected panels and type of assembly (with a gap or without a gap).

Typically, the distance between the tenons requires the installation of panels of a certain width, with a gap for a decorative insert.

Suspensions

The comb is attached using hangers or directly to the base ceiling. The choice is determined by the height of the ceilings in the room. If this parameter allows you to “steal” 10 - 20 cm, then an adjustable suspension is used.

Euro hangers are often included in the delivery of slatted suspended ceilings.

This fastening element consists of two steel spokes arranged in parallel.

At the top there is a bend in the shape of a ring for a self-tapping screw, at the bottom there is a hook that is inserted into the support rail. The spokes are connected by a C-shaped plate (spring), the tension of which fixes the adjustment. This type of suspension is easy to install and adjust, but it requires a large space between the base and suspended ceiling.

Universal ceiling suspension - perforated stainless steel strip.

The universal suspension allows you to mount a false ceiling at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the ceiling.

Its disadvantage is the need to screw the profile to the suspension, which complicates adjustment. But if this is not the first time the master holds a screwdriver in his hands, this is not a problem.

Edging

The most important design element is the end edging.

It does not carry a load and performs a decorative function. The entire visual effect comes from this element. After all, the eyes first see the edges, junctions and corners.

The choice between a wall corner and a U-profile is quite simple - experienced master will recommend the profile.

It is rigid in itself and adds rigidity to the entire ceiling structure. However, simple corners are often included in the package; they are cheaper.

The U-profile is indispensable where the walls cannot be touched again.

For example, tiles may lie with voids. This means that drilling and boring will lead to the tiles splitting.

In most cases, a wall corner is used. But straight walls are rare, and an aluminum corner does not follow their curvature well. That is, it forms cracks that cannot be corrected.

These gaps will be between the wall and the corner, and between the slats and the corner. True, sometimes it turns out to bend a corner, reducing the gap. But you shouldn't hope for it. It is better to check how crooked the walls are and proceed from this when purchasing material and installing it. In any case, the U-shaped profile is mounted more tightly to the panels, eliminating unnecessary gaps.

Installation procedure for aluminum slatted ceiling

The assembly of suspended slatted ceilings can be divided into two stages:

• frame installation;
• installation of panels.

Wall corner

The first stage begins with the installation of a wall corner or U-profile.

First, you need to beat off the intended ceiling height with a building level along the entire perimeter. If the room is of a decent size, it will be convenient to use a laser or hydraulic level.

Advice: Many people use a bright marker for these purposes, without thinking about the fact that they will have to be washed off.

And it’s not a fact that this will be possible to do. It is better to draw a light dotted line with a simple pencil.

When marking the perimeter, you need to measure the dimensions of the walls with a tape measure and write directly on them.

It is advisable to indicate them to the nearest millimeter. When cutting off the required pieces of the wall corner, the joints in the corners must be made end-to-end. In the outer corners, the edges are connected at an angle of 45 degrees.

Photo of the installed wall corner.

The main thing is that there is no overlap, as it will add gaps between the corner and the panels.

This means that from each signed size you need to subtract the width of the corner or profile - 20 or 25 mm.

As a rule, the edging is cut with simple metal scissors. But you need to be careful not to wrinkle the edges. They can be straightened with pliers or a hammer, but marks will probably remain. Besides the scissors this work can be made into a “grinder”.

However, the paint around the edges of the product will most likely turn black from heat.

Advice: A neat, but not simple, method is to use a hacksaw.

Then holes are drilled on the surface of the corner that will be pressed to the wall, approximately every 50 cm. Having placed the profile in place, the holes are marked with a pencil on the wall and holes with a diameter of 5-6 mm are drilled for dowels.

Advice: when installing the edging to tiled walls, you can try to screw a self-tapping screw into the seam.

Sometimes this is the only way to avoid tiles from splitting and speed up the process.

During work, it is important to pay attention to the curvature of the walls, based on which the dowels are placed. By pulling the corner in the places of the depressions, it will be possible to avoid the appearance of gaps between the edging and the wall.

The corner will most likely bend and form gaps between itself and the slats. It is possible to do it without any gaps at all if the walls are smooth. Otherwise, you need to look for a “golden mean”.

Support rail

Having secured the edging (corner), install the support rail. It is installed perpendicular to the slats, cut with metal scissors or a grinder - aesthetics do not play a role here. The location of the tenons on the stringer is important. The stringer needs to be cut so that the first panel fits clearly on these tenons.

Having prepared sections of the tire of suitable length, they are laid on the wall corner, inserting a 10 mm thick gasket.

If a U-profile is used, the stringer is placed on its upper shelf.

Mounting the support rail.

The supporting profile must be placed 30 cm away from the side walls. The distance between the profiles should not exceed 100 - 110 cm, in order to avoid sagging of the ceiling.

The support rail is secured using hangers, the distance between which should not exceed 1 m.

The frequency of suspensions is determined after the fact, based on the resulting rigidity of the structure.

In large rooms, a string is used to check the evenness of the ceiling; in small rooms, this is done simply by eye, since the supporting profile is quite rigid in itself and should not sag.

Having mounted the frame, it is necessary to resolve the issue with lighting and distribute the wires.

Installation of lamps is carried out simultaneously with the installation of panels.

Installation of slats and lamps

The panels are always cut to a slightly smaller size than the length of the walls for ease of installation. This operation is performed with scissors or a grinder extremely carefully.

Each bend will certainly lead to the appearance of extra cracks. Fixing the slats is easier than dismantling them, so it’s better not to make mistakes anywhere.

Installation of slatted ceiling panels.

Having reached the first spotlight, you need to cut a hole on the panel for it.

Advice: It is more convenient to do this while she is lying on the floor.

An annular wood drill bit is suitable for this purpose. Having chosen the desired diameter, the hole is drilled at low speeds of the drill.

DIY slatted ceiling installation. Instructions

In this case, you need to be careful, as the drill passes through the metal, it can catch on it and bend it.

The last panel usually needs to be cut lengthwise. This can be done with a simple stationery knife; the stiffening ribs will no longer interfere. After passing it along the rail several times, it simply breaks. It inserts without problems.

However, you need to take into account that the edge of the panel is not fixed in anything. Therefore, spacers made of a material 10 mm thick, for example, plasterboard, can be inserted on top of it.

Slatted ceiling in the bathroom.

When planning a suspended slatted ceiling, it is important to understand some of its features:

• aluminum is a soft metal and requires careful handling;
• uneven walls can ruin the appearance of the ceiling, so it would be good to level them first;
• The aluminum slatted ceiling is not firmly fixed.

  This means that attaching accessories to it is undesirable.

Installation of slatted ceilings

Slat ceiling is a type of suspended ceiling that consists of a system of narrow panels (slats) and a suspended structure designed to secure them.

Types of slatted ceilings

So, from the many options facing materials We chose the slatted ceiling. Now you need to decide on the type of ceiling; they come in open and closed types.

Open suspended slatted ceiling

An open slatted ceiling is based on placing slats at a distance from each other, forming gaps between them.

Subsequently, they can be filled with inter-slat inserts or not filled at all. This type of ceiling is usually installed in high rooms where cracks are not noticeable. In addition, they create good ventilation and do not trap condensation on the back surface of the slats. The open ceiling is suitable for both residential premises and shopping centers, warehouses, offices

.

This is what the rail for open ceilings looks like.

Closed suspended slatted ceiling

Accordingly, a closed-type slatted ceiling consists of placing panels close to each other.

Closed-type slats have so-called “tongues” that allow them to hook onto the adjacent panel, forming a ceiling covering without gaps.

A closed type rack with a “tongue” looks like this.

Slat material

The material from which the slats are made usually determines the purpose of the suspension system. The main materials are metal (steel, aluminum) and plastic.

Slatted aluminum suspended ceiling

Panels that are made of aluminum can easily withstand temperature changes and are moisture resistant.

Aluminum combines the qualities durable metal and light, picky plastic. That is why it is the most common material for slatted suspended ceilings.

Aluminum is practically not subject to corrosion.

Aluminum slatted ceilings will be an excellent solution for a bathroom; for more details, see the article slatted ceiling in the bathroom.

Also, the technical characteristics of the aluminum slatted ceiling allow it to be installed in the kitchen, where you need good ventilation premises.

Read about the benefits of slatted ceilings for the kitchen on our website.

Steel slatted ceiling

Steel panels are usually installed in warehouses. Steel is durable, provides sound insulation and is a good light reflector, and this material is also cheaper than aluminum. But steel can rust over time, so it is better to install steel slats only in dry rooms.

Plastic slatted ceiling

Such ceilings can also be called universal; they are impervious to dampness and humidity, and besides, plastic is an order of magnitude cheaper than its metal counterparts.

Plastic slatted ceilings do not require special care, which is important for modern housewives. That is why plastic suspended ceilings have become widespread in bathrooms and kitchens.

They are also often used in offices, warehouses and other commercial premises.

Appearance of slats

As for the appearance panels, then everything is simple here: the slats are perforated and solid (solid). Most often you come across solid slatted suspended ceilings.

They consist of solid panels without any additional holes.

.

Perforated panels speak for themselves. They are made by punching equidistant holes on sheet material. They are advised to be installed in rooms where good ventilation is needed.

Advantages and disadvantages of slatted ceilings

Sometimes one “cons” weighs much more than several “pros,” so we will consider in detail all the pros and cons of slatted ceilings.

Advantages

Easy to install

Hides unevenness or defects in the original ceiling

Versatility - thanks to such properties as fire safety and moisture resistance, they can be used in any room

Practicality - do not require special care

Large selection of colors, materials, panel sizes

Reliability - rack and pinion suspension systems will last up to 50 years

Aesthetics - look very nice with the appropriate room design

Flaws

They lower the level of ceilings, so it is better to choose glossy panels that will reflect the room and visually enlarge it

One-piece dismantling - it is impossible to remove certain panels, only the entire ceiling

The relatively high prices make many wonder if it's worth it.

But in this case the quality justifies the price

Types of ceiling slats

Designing ceilings using suspended systems prevents the long and difficult process of leveling and cutting. One such type is the soffit, which is a system of narrow plates held in place by a frame to secure the suspension.

There are two main types of ceilings:

first

Clean it up. The plates interact with each other, which is the gap between them. These spaces can be decorated with special inserts or remain so.

Master class: DIY installation of ceiling strips

This type of flight is used in rooms with high wall heights where the slots are barely visible. Because of the breakup natural ventilation inter-block space.

In addition to apartments, open ceilings are also widely used in offices, shops and stores.

2. Closing. The panels are installed from end to end, and the tightness of the connections ensures the presence of a “tongue” system.

Reiki is usually made from the following materials:

aluminum. Such ceilings are strong and light. They completely withstand temperature fluctuations and humidity, while they are not subject to corrosion. The most commonly used aluminum ceiling grids in kitchens and bathrooms due to the above properties.

steel. In most cases, it is used to finish ceilings in warehouses.

The material is cheaper in price than aluminum, but it can be thinned, so it is only suitable for drying dry areas. They differ in power and sound insulation.

Plastics. In fact, it is a versatile type of lumbar flow that has excellent moisture resistance and lightness.

In addition, plastic is much cheaper than any metal. After installation, it does not require special care and can be used in premises of any purpose.

As for the texture of the rails, they are most often monolithic, without holes. However, to achieve the appropriate level of ventilation, a separate line produces perforated perforated ceilings, which resemble a beautiful mesh with small holes.

There is also a large selection of sizes and shades, so it is not difficult to find the right ceiling for a specific room. The service life of such a coating, taking into account basic operational recommendations, should be at least 50 years.

They are increasingly being installed not only in offices and public buildings, but also in residential buildings. Decorating a kitchen or bathroom with corrosion-resistant lightweight aluminum slats is quick and convenient - this option will not require repairs for many years. But the price of installation services for slatted ceilings is not always justifiably high. Despite the fact that installing a slatted ceiling does not require special skills or tools, you can assemble it yourself. Let’s figure out what you need to install a slatted ceiling with your own hands and how to do it correctly.

Selecting an appearance

Slat ceilings have three types of assembly - open, closed and gapless systems. Between the slats open system During installation, gaps remain that are covered with special inserts (layouts). A closed slatted ceiling consists of slats that fit together. This creates a continuous surface with small blind spaces between the slats. The gapless system is designed in such a way that the slats fit tightly to each other, and there are no gaps between the slats at all.

Foreign and domestic manufacturers of slatted ceilings offer a variety of colors. Classic version– white, gold, silver, chrome, metallic. Large palette bright colors good to use in the design of dynamic modern interiors. Panels that imitate the texture of wood, marble, and granite are becoming increasingly popular. The panel can be plain or have a pattern, most often a stripe. There are panels with perforations of various frequencies and sizes. Panels are available in different widths, which can be used advantageously in decoration. By planning to install a slatted ceiling with your own hands, you can truly create a unique interior.

Tip: when choosing a surface design, consider using panels of contrasting color or a combination of matte panels and glossy, mirror inserts.

Materials and tools for work

Looking through your home tool kit, you will most likely find a hammer drill or impact drill, a screwdriver (or screwdriver), a construction level, metal scissors, pliers, a knife, a ruler, and a tape measure. You will also need a pencil or tapping cord, dowel-nails and/or self-tapping screws. If you decide to install a slatted ceiling yourself, it would also be a good idea to ask a friend or neighbor to help you with the work.

One of the types of suspended ceilings is its slatted version. It is characterized by good strength, has a long service life, has a wide range of colors and is suitable for premises for various purposes. Most often, installation of slatted ceilings is carried out in bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools, as well as in garages and office spaces.

Installation diagram of a rack ceiling.

Slatted ceilings are also used in another direction, which concerns open structures, such as terraces, verandas and gas stations. This is due to the fact that this type of ceiling finish has a high degree of resistance to moisture. What is the design of a suspended slatted ceiling and what is the best way to install it? We'll talk about this further.

Design features of the slatted ceiling

As for the design of the slatted ceiling, first of all we draw your attention to the fact that it consists of individual slats, or, in other words, panels, the length of which can reach 6 meters. In addition to the slats, its design includes a special suspension system.

Now a few words about the materials from which the slatted ceiling is made. Most often, its slats are made of aluminum or steel with a thickness varying from 0.3 to 0.6 mm. Their outer side is varnished. The width of the slats can also be different: the minimum is from 50 mm, the maximum is up to 200 mm.

Typical shape and size of a batten for a closed ceiling.

If you follow the instructions, then at the first stage of work you need to prepare the ceiling surface for finishing. Make sure that both the walls and the ceiling itself are in pure form and were fairly even. And don’t forget to think about what exactly will be placed in the inter-ceiling space. This is important, since the gap between the main ceiling and the suspended ceiling will depend on this. Lighting fixtures will also affect this indicator, depending on whether they are built-in or suspended.

I would like to note that if you are the owner of a premises with low ceilings, the height of which does not exceed 2.6 m, then in this case every effort must be made to make the gap between the base ceiling and the slatted ceiling as small as possible. To do this, the stringers are attached directly to the surface of the ceiling, and the leveling procedure is carried out using so-called linings. The most suitable lamps in this case will be devices hanging type. For this type of premises, it is most advisable to use closed ceilings.

A short list of tools that may be needed:

• roulette;
• drill or hammer drill;
• a screwdriver (it’s better if there is a whole set of them);
• pliers;
• to cut elements of a metal suspended ceiling you will need metal scissors;
• self-tapping screws and dowels;
• shoe knife.

Scheme for installing a suspended slatted ceiling on self-tapping screws.

Marking always begins from the wall that is the smoothest of all.

To do this, a parallel line is drawn at a distance of approximately 300 mm from the above wall. It will be needed when installing the stringer.

Exactly the same markings are made from the opposite wall. The line marking pitch for stringers is no more than 1.2 m.

The next step will be marking the future hanger mounts. The first point from the wall should be located at a distance of no more than 400 mm.

If you plan to equip the slatted ceiling with lamps, do not forget to mark them too. And on the surface of the walls you need to indicate the desired height of the suspended ceiling.

Installation of slatted ceiling

Scheme for installing a lamp in a slatted ceiling.

At the first stage of installation, install combs or, as mentioned above, stringers.

The hangers can be attached using one of the methods listed below. This is either using self-tapping screws and dowels, or using anchors driven into pre-prepared holes.

Don't forget that if your ceilings are not very high, then using pendants is not practical.

Installation of a slatted ceiling, or rather stringers, ends with the horizontal alignment procedure. The position of the hangers can be adjusted by simply twisting and unscrewing.

The next stage involves the installation of skirting boards. As noted above, they are designed to cover joints.

Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, the distance between them is about 60 cm.

Next, you can proceed to the installation of panels. But before that, make sure that all preliminary work on placing communications and lighting behind the ceiling is completely completed. The place to install the first panel is the wall along which the rail will be located, which will not be cut to width. If you also use inserts, they are also mounted at this stage.

Slatted ceilings are a popular solution for finishing kitchens and bathrooms, but they also look quite decent in other rooms of the apartment. With such a ceiling, notes of style and originality appear in the interior, that very zest that is so lacking traditional methods home interior design. A huge selection of materials, textures and color shades give the design idea complete freedom, which allows you to realize any, even the most extraordinary interior design. But the most important thing is that there is nothing complicated in installing a slatted ceiling, so you can do it yourself, quite quickly and without much labor.

Types of slatted ceilings

Currently, several types of slatted ceilings can be found on the market. Their main differences lie in the design and shape of the slats, as well as in the features of their joining to each other and attachment to the supporting frame.

Slatted ceilings are made of light aluminum alloys or non-flammable plastic, so their main advantages are fire resistance, moisture resistance and environmental friendliness. Even being multi-level, such structures are easy to install, but they somewhat reduce the ceiling height and require full analysis if necessary, replace individual elements.

Slatted ceilings in home interiors in the photo

Classification of slatted ceilings:

1. By panel type:

• closed;
• open;
• solid.

An open design involves placing slats with a small (1.5-2 cm) gap and is excellent for finishing high rooms, where the gap between the slats will not be so noticeable. A closed ceiling is created using slats, which, having a special edge shape, are attached with an overlap, which makes them resemble plastic or. In gapless or solid slatted ceilings, the panels are installed without a gap, which creates a feeling of solidity of the ceiling space.

1. According to the shape of the slats:

• rectangular (German profile);
• rounded (Italian profile);
• V-shaped, etc.

Rectangular slats are used in open ceilings, incl. with decorative inserts. The Italian profile is suitable for arrangement closed ceilings with minimal gap between panels. As a rule, panels of other shapes are used as decorative ceiling inserts or to implement original design ideas.

1. Based on the presence of a filling profile

• with insert;
• without insert.

In ceilings with an insert, an additional profile is installed in the gap between the slats. Designs without an insert can have a fairly large (more than 2 cm) gap between the slats.

Varieties of slatted suspended ceilings in the photo

As a rule, slatted ceilings are made of light aluminum alloys or non-flammable plastic, so their main advantages are fire resistance, moisture resistance and environmental friendliness. Even being multi-level, such structures are easy to install, but they somewhat reduce the ceiling height and require complete disassembly if individual elements need to be replaced.

The surface of the slats can have any color, be smooth, embossed or imitate other materials, which must be taken into account when choosing a finishing option.

Ceiling structure calculation

To install a slatted ceiling, you need to prepare the room for work and complete all necessary calculations. To do this, you need to take out all the furniture, remove peeling plaster, level the walls and remove construction debris.

The design of the slatted ceiling includes the following components:

• main panels (slats);
• slot profile (used if necessary);
• traverse (a special tire that serves to fix the rail);
• corner (load-bearing) profile installed around the perimeter of the room;
• adjustable suspension (wire or perforated strip, which is installed on the main ceiling and serves to fasten tires with slats - similar to the guide profiles of plasterboard suspended structures);
• stringer (guide longitudinal and transverse profile);
• plinth (performs a decorative function, covering the junction of walls and ceiling).

The calculation of the slatted ceiling begins with measuring the perimeter of the room - it will correspond to the total length of the supporting profile. The length of the slats is selected according to the dimensions of the room, and they can have any direction - longitudinal, transverse or even diagonal. You can find 3 or 4 meter panels on sale, so the sizes of the panels should be selected to minimize waste.

The location of the guide profiles is calculated with a distance of 30 cm from the longitudinal walls. The pitch between stringers is taken to be no more than 1-1.2 m, so stringers may not be needed in narrow rooms. In order to determine the total length of the guides, you should draw a ceiling plan on paper.

To install lighting devices, the distance between the base and the rack structure is taken based on their installation dimensions. For example, recessed luminaires with incandescent lamps require at least 130 mm, while for halogen or LED lamps only about 70 mm.

What is needed for installation?

If you have made the calculations and bought everything you need to install a slatted ceiling, all that remains is to assemble the tool and stock up on consumables.

The list of tools should include:

• construction knife;
• hammer;
• drill (with hammer drill function);
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• construction and hydraulic level;
• scissors or a hacksaw for metal (depending on the thickness of the slats);
• marker or pencil;
• tape measure and square.

In addition, you will need mounting dowels and screws sufficient for reliable installation ceiling structure quantity. It is also worth using special clothing, safety glasses and gloves when working.

Having everything you need at hand, you can begin marking the ceiling. The line of the supporting profile must be drawn strictly at a horizontal level. After this, you should mark the placement points of the stringers and suspension elements.

Multi-level ceilings require more complex calculations. The size of the gap between the main ceiling surface and the first tier will depend on what material you are going to fill it with. If not needed, the heat or upper level can be raised to maximum height(from 5 cm), but always taking into account the installation dimensions of the lighting fixtures.

Electrical wiring in home interiors it is always laid hidden. Therefore, its wiring must be done before starting installation work. It is advisable to lay it in a corrugated pipe with reliable fixation to the main ceiling or walls.

We should not forget about the difficulty of dismantling the slatted ceiling. The electrical wiring must be laid so that later, in order to replace it, individual areas or restoring broken contacts, you did not have to disassemble the entire structure.

Installation of slatted ceiling

The installation of a rack-type suspended ceiling structure should be undertaken only after the finishing of the room has been completed. And all in order not to damage or stain the front surface of the slats.

If there are markings, you can proceed to the first stage of installation - laying the supporting U-shaped profile. It is mounted along the wound line marked along the perimeter of the room using dowels, which are placed in increments of 30-50 cm.

The next step is to install adjustable hangers. They are located at the intersection points of the stringers and are attached to the main floor with dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the base material). After installing the suspension, you can begin laying the stringers. Their length is taken with a 5-7 mm gap, which avoids curvature of the ceiling plane during final fixation to the suspended elements.

Before installing the slats, you must remove protective film. The length of the panels is selected according to the size of the room. The corners in it may not be straight, so the outermost rivers will have to be trimmed. This must be done taking into account the dimensions of the plinth, which should cover the corner gap between the suspended ceiling and the wall. The length of the panels is taken to be 3-5 mm shorter than the distance between opposite walls for ease of installation.

The panels are placed between the teeth of the traverse and are fixed on it by snapping. It may happen that you need to reduce the width of the side rails. To do this, having measured the required distance, you need to make a deep, neat cut along the panel, and perpendicular cuts on the part to be cut, after which it can be broken off piece by piece by bending and unbending the metal.

When installing side rails, the last one is installed first, and then the penultimate one. Do not forget also about the intermediate liners, which are included in the design in order to neatly design the joints.

Lighting and other installation details

Installation of lighting equipment is the most delicate part of the job. The slots for the lamps must be made in advance, being careful not to make burrs. The installation of lighting points is carried out in parallel with the laying of slats. At the same time, do not forget to make sure that the connection is made correctly and securely.

The direction of the planks is selected at the planning stage in accordance with the features natural light. As a rule, they try to place them along the line of light.

In narrow and cramped rooms, the best effect is achieved by placing the slats transversely, and in spacious square-shaped ones - diagonally, so look at the situation.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing a slatted ceiling. It is only important to correctly calculate the structure and follow the installation technology - in this case, the ceiling, pleasing to the eye, will serve you for many years.

Installation of a suspended slatted ceiling with your own hands, video