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Independent construction of the roof of a private house. Roof installation How to build a complex roof


Information on the Internet and technical literature on this topic will help the homeowner solve the problem of how to properly make the roof of a house so that it lasts a long time without repair. Requires certain skills and knowledge about individual elements roof structure, its components and parts, types of materials and technology for constructing roof coverings.

Variety of modern roofs

Modern roofs they are made flat and pitched, single-colored and multi-colored, with and without attics, from different roofing materials and even use straw (see: ""). When developing projects, experts classify roofs into inclined (pitched) and those that do not have a slope. Flat roofs require a slight slope of no more than 5 degrees.

In turn, pitched roofs according to their shape are divided into:

In reality, there are more geometric roof designs and the choice largely depends on the preferences of the developer. When designing a building, the shape of the pitched roof largely depends on its architectural appearance and the purpose of the under-roof space. It can be either a smooth slope or a broken, fancy design with various curvatures.

The roof frame, regardless of what type of roof it is, is always a rafter system or a truss. The sheathing required for installation is attached to the rafters roofing material.

Building materials for roof construction

After choosing the shape of the roof, you need to decide on the material from which the roof surface and rafter structure will be created, and calculate its quantity. The most durable coating is considered to be tiles, but compared to metal sheets and slate, they weigh much more due to the fact that they are made from baked clay. The choice of material will subsequently affect the durability of the roof.


To build a rafter system, you will need to purchase lumber from natural wood- beams, boards, slats, and for this you need to know how to calculate the volume of the forest. You also need to buy a film for waterproofing, thermal insulation, fasteners, including screws and nails. Material consumption also depends on the size of the house, the complexity of the roof’s structural solution and the type of coating.

Elements of the rafter system

The main detail rafter system is the rafter. In addition, the design contains the following main elements:

Roof slope angle

The slope depends on the parameters truss structure(its height) and the width of the building, so roofs are:

  • with a slight slope;
  • with an average slope;
  • with a strong slope.


The slope of the slopes is also affected by:

  • design solution regarding the design of the building and its appearance;
  • type of roofing material, since for each of them there is a recommended angle of inclination;
  • the ability of the roof structure to withstand wind loads and precipitation. The stronger the wind in a given area, the smaller the slope of the slopes should be. Otherwise, as the angle of inclination increases, wind resistance decreases and windage increases - as a result of which the roof can simply be blown away. On the other hand on steep slope snow and rain do not linger for a long time, unlike a roof that has a minimum angle of inclination.

How to measure roof slope

IN technical documentation(in drawings and diagrams) the slope of the roof is usually denoted by the letter “i”. As already mentioned, it is measured as a percentage or in degrees. You can find out the angle of inclination either by mathematical calculation or by using a geodetic instrument called an inclinometer. Electronic and drop levels with inclinometers are also used for measurements.

When such a device is not available, mathematical calculations are performed. To do this, you will need to know the vertical distance from the ridge to the roof eaves (H) and the horizontal length of the segment between the top and bottom points of the slope (L). The formula for calculating the slope angle is as follows: i = H:L. The result obtained as a percentage is found by multiplying it by 100.

Minimum slopes and roof coverings

Before making the roof correctly, the roofing covering is selected based on the slope of the roof slope.

According to regulatory documentation, minimum slope should be:

  • for surfaces made of bitumen roll materials laid in 3 or 4 layers - from 0 to 3 degrees or 5 percent;
  • for roofs made of bitumen 2-layer roll coatings, no more than 15%;
  • if slate is used - 9 degrees or 16%;
  • for ondulin coating - at least 5 degrees;
  • when ceramic or bitumen tiles are used, the minimum slope should be 11 degrees;
  • in the case of using metal tiles - about 14 degrees.

Truss roofing system


The elements of the truss system are divided into parts, which include:

  • load that applies to both the truss structure and the truss.

    • Construction of a roof with thermal insulation

    The standards that determine how to properly make a roof provide for the creation of insulating layers to ensure reliable protection interior spaces of the building.

    The roofing “pie” looks like this:

    • the first layer, the lowest one, is a vapor barrier, it is necessary to protect the insulation;
    • the second layer is thermal insulation material;
    • third layer - waterproofing film;
    • the fourth layer (finishing) is the roofing.


    Experts advise that before installing the roof, place insulation between the rafters. Mineral wool is most often used because it is durable, environmentally friendly, lightweight, and wear-resistant. On the contrary, polystyrene foam is not recommended for use due to its high toxicity and flammability. Layer of laid thermal insulation material depending on climatic conditions should be from 5 to 10 centimeters.

    Creating a ventilated roof

    When creating warm roof it is necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, between the insulation and the roof. This is primarily due to the need:

    • preventing the formation of condensation on the sheathing on the cold side attic space;
    • ensuring the natural movement of air masses in the attic by creating ventilation holes, exhaust shafts, special ventilation windows, etc.;
    • removing moisture from the thermal insulation layer and wooden elements of the roof structure;
    • reducing the possibility of ice formation on the roof surface.

    To ensure air entry, gaps are made on the lower surface of the cornice, the total width of which cannot be less than 20 millimeters if the lining is made of wood. When it's made of plastic siding or aluminum, for filing it is necessary to use materials with perforation.

    In order for the air, which is helped to circulate by the difference in pressure, to leave the under-roof space, an exhaust ventilation outlet is installed in the direction from the ridge to the eaves. It is done at a distance of about one meter from the ridge.

    The height of the ventilation ducts and the dimensions of the inlet holes for ventilation are made depending on the angle of inclination of the slope and the humidity of the internal roofing layers. If the roof slope does not exceed 5 degrees, then the height of the ventilation duct should be equal to 100 millimeters, when it is from 5 to 25 degrees - 60 millimeters. In the event that the tilt size is 25-40 degrees - 50 millimeters, when the angle exceeds 45 degrees - more than 40 millimeters. The given values ​​are valid for slope lengths up to 10 meters. If this parameter is greater, then the height of the ventilation gap must be increased by 10% or the installation of aeration pipes must be provided. The height of the ventilation gap is at the same time the size of the block for the counter rail. The standard length of the bars is 3 meters.

    Before putting the roof on the house completely, a counter-batten is mounted on top of the waterproofing installed on the rafters using 90 mm rough nails, they are driven in at a distance of approximately 5 centimeters from the edge, keeping a gap of no more than 50 centimeters.

    How to arrange roof overhangs, details in the video:

    Arrangement of pipe junctions

    Arrangements for bypassing pipe locations are different for different roofing coverings. It is performed using roofing components. Making the connection of roofing materials to pipes correctly and aesthetically is a particularly important undertaking. It is not difficult to trim slate or tiles, more problems causes installation of the junction, because leaks cannot be allowed to occur in the future.


    For example, for metal tiles or metal profiles and similar materials metal junction strips are used in accordance with the color of the coating. For roofs made from slate sheets, cheaper galvanized components are used.

    In case of installation on the roof bitumen shingles the connection to the pipe is provided by a valley carpet. For natural tiles use special adhesive tape together with a metal apron in accordance with the color of the roof covering.

    Before we start describing step by step construction roof, you need to understand its structure as a whole. As a rule, all roofing systems include three separate parts, which together constitute a single roofing structure:

    1. The most important part of the roof can be called its supporting frame, which consists of a rafter system, sheathing and ridge boards. Materials such as reinforced concrete, metal and wood can be used to construct a supporting frame.

    However, when building a private house, wood is most often used, which not only has a low price, but is also, in principle, easy to construct a roof. It is this option for roof construction that will be discussed below.

    At the same time, we note that for constructing a rafter system it is best to use boards 5 cm thick and 10 cm wide, and for constructing sheathing, boards 2.5 cm thick and 10-12 cm wide are suitable.

    2. The second part of the roof is an insulating layer, on which the service life of the roof depends.

    As practice shows, one of the main problems of the roof is evaporation and the appearance of condensation, which has a significant impact on load-bearing structure in general and can simply render it unusable. And to prevent this from happening, you should choose the right insulation layer for the device roofing structure. For this purpose, roofing felt is mainly used, as the most cheap material, but you can also very often find the use of steam-waterproofing film or glassine.

    3. And the last but not least important part is the roofing material, which can also be of different types.

    The most common and cheapest roofing material is, of course, asbestos-cement and bitumen slate. The second place in popularity is most likely occupied by ondulin, very similar to wavy slate and having excellent resistance to negative impacts. Less in demand are metal tiles, which, although considered the most practical material, cause some difficulties during installation.

    All these parts of the roofing system must be made of sufficient quality, since the reliability of the entire system depends on them. finished design. And the roof, no matter what type it is, must be able to perform the following functions:

    • the roof must withstand wind and snow loads;
    • must be waterproof;
    • the roof structure should not accumulate condensation;
    • the roof must provide normal humidity and even temperature in the house;
    • must have good resistance to temperature changes and chemical influences;
    • Lastly, the roof must be constructed so that it can be cleaned and repaired.

    Roof Construction Steps

    As we have already mentioned earlier, we will consider the load-bearing frame of the roof structure made of wood, which is most often used in the construction of private houses; we will take the cheapest materials – roofing felt and slate – as insulating and roofing materials.

    Note that there are two methods of attaching the lower part of the load-bearing roof frame to the wall of the house: the frame is either attached to a floor beam, or the frame is attached to a special Mauerlat, which is a thick wooden beam 15x15 cm in cross section, laid along the axis of the wall.

    Mauerlat helps to evenly distribute the loads in places where the roof structure is supported along the entire wall of the building, however, most often you can do without it, that is, use the first option, but keep in mind that the strength of the beams and walls of the house themselves must be so high as to withstand the entire roof.

    When describing the construction stages, the load-bearing roof frame is attached to the floor beam.

    Step 1 Installation of rafters

    We begin to build the supporting frame. To do this, first of all, using nails 1.5 cm long, you need to fasten the rafters together at the top point in the form of an end connection. Then, stepping back a little lower from the top point, about 60-65 cm, you additionally need to fasten the rafters together with a board, you should get a structure in the form of the letter “A”.

    Next, first of all, the outer rafters are installed, while their lower ends are laid on the wall of the house with an extension of about 20 cm. The outer rafters are also attached to the house using nails 20 cm long, and are additionally strengthened with two bevels - one edge, which is fixed to rafter board, and the other to the ceiling beam.

    Then you need to install the rafters in the center of the house and mount a ridge board on top, which will give the rafters a stronger connection to each other. After all this work has been done, you can install the remaining rafters according to the same principle as they did before. It must be remembered that ideally the distance between the rafters should be no more than 50 cm.

    Step 2 Lathing installation

    Before moving on to this step, we note that the lathing system can be of two types, which have their own specific design features and are designed for a specific type of roofing material.

    The first and most labor-intensive system is considered solid type, which, as a rule, consists of two continuous layers, the seams of which intersect in each row. The first layer of such a system is mainly made from edged boards, and waterproof plywood is used as the second layer.

    The second most common and simplest type of sheathing is the thinned system, which is typically used for rigid roofing material. And in our case, we will use exactly this type of lathing. To do this, the sheathing boards are laid at a distance of approximately 5 cm from each other with an extension of approximately 25 cm beyond the outer rafters. The sheathing boards are also fastened with nails, that is, two nails to each rafter leg.

    Step 3 Insulation

    To organize insulation on top of the sheathing, it is necessary to lay rolls of roofing felt vertically with an overlap of at least 15 cm. You can fasten the roofing felt to the sheathing with medium nails with a wide head.

    At this step we should also mention insulation. If it is assumed that the house will be without an attic or with a residential attic, then it is recommended to also lay insulation material between the rafters, which is most often used polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

    Step 4 Roofing

    The last step in building a roof is laying down the roofing material, in our case it is 6-wave slate. You should always start laying slate from the bottom. At the same time, when laying the first three rows, you must check how even these rows are, otherwise, if one of the rows of slate has even the slightest deviation from a straight line, you will have to re-cover the entire roof.

    When laying, you should also take into account that the overlap of the second row of slate onto the slate of the first row when longitudinal laying should be at least 10-15 cm, and when laying transversely, the overlap of one slate sheet onto another should be at least one “wave”. The slate sheets are fastened using special slate nails.

    Conclusion

    As you can see, building a roof consists of just a few simple steps, and the proposed option for installing a roofing system is good for reasons such as:

    1. The construction of such a roof does not require huge amount building materials, and, consequently, large material costs;
    2. The roof installation described above is so simple that you can easily and quickly do it yourself, and, therefore, you can save on hiring a team of builders.
    3. And lastly, by building a roof with your own hands, you will always be sure that all the work has been done efficiently and the roof will not let you down in inclement weather.

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    To save money, owners country houses prefer to do part construction work with your own hands. How to make a roof in a private house is a question many developers ask. But before carrying out work, you should study all the information about roofs. You need to know what roofs exist, familiarize yourself with their shapes and design features. It's no secret that these elements perform many functions. The range of their characteristics is not limited to protecting the interior of the house from the penetration of moisture, cold air currents and snow. Our article will tell you all about the features of roofs, and will also describe in detail the construction of the roof.

    Roof installation of a private house and its types

    Modern construction found application various types roofs of houses. Of course, each type requires an individual one. Let's talk about the most common ones, as well as their advantages and features.


    DIY roof of a private house: preparation

    In addition to choosing the type of roof, think about what material will be used to cover it (more details: ""). Based on this, the parameters of the rafter system are determined. The weight of the roof covering affects its pressure and loads. Therefore, it is important to resolve the issue with the method of fastening the roofing elements. Finally, it is worth deciding on additional parts of the rafter system.

    The best option for calculating the material for the rafter system and roofing is to have a roof drawing. The diagram usually indicates all the fastening points of the rafter system. They, in turn, strengthen the elements.


    The roof has the greatest weight ceramic tiles. The rafter system and foundation (+ walls) must take into account the weight of this material. Coniferous wood is most often used for the rafter system. At the same time, its humidity should be no more than 20%. The wood should not contain knots or blue stains.

    Tools for arranging the rafter system:

    • vapor barrier material;
    • waterproofing film;
    • insulation material;
    • iron staples;
    • self-tapping screws, nails, screws;
    • roofing tools.

    How to build a roof for a private house: rafter system



    The design of the rafter system involves supporting the lower end of the rafters on the mauerlat. In this case, the upper end rests on both the ridge and the opposite rafter. As a result, trusses are created. They are connected using a ridge beam or two boards that form a ridge. To strengthen the rafter legs, special struts, struts, jibs, braces and crossbars are installed. All these elements make the rafter structure quite rigid and durable.


    Arranging gable roof, the first two structures of the rafter system (triangles) must be assembled on the ground. Only after complete assembly can they be lifted onto the roof. Spacers are used for temporary strengthening. Then, the elements are connected using ridge beams or boards on both sides. Next, the remaining rafter legs are installed. For the convenience of workers, floor beams are usually laid on the mauerlat. Temporary flooring must also be present.

    To fasten the rafter system, not only mortises and notches are used, but also iron staples, metal corners, screws and nails. The rigid frame of the rafter system will be provided by struts, crossbars, ties and stops. Sometimes it becomes necessary to lengthen the rafter legs. In this case, the first step is to splice two rafter boards. Short pieces are installed at the joint on both sides.

    Roof structure of a private house: sheathing

    Having finished installing the rafters, you can fill the sheathing. To arrange it you will need boards (2.5 cm thick) or bars. The sheathing can be either continuous or have gaps. But before that, waterproofing should be laid along the rafters. When creating a living room in the attic, it is best to insulate the roof in advance. The insulation is installed in the space between the rafters. The material can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam.


    To create a “warm” living space in the attic, lay insulation in a double layer. The thickness of one layer should not be less than 50 mm. Insulation layer helps absorb noise from outside the room. Placed on insulation vapor barrier membrane. It protects the material from the formation of condensation on it. To avoid spending extra money on repairing the roof of a private house, follow all the instructions and recommendations. Try to lay the layers of the roofing pie correctly.

    Roof arrangement

    Perhaps, main stage all the work. Arranging the frame with roofing material is a very important procedure. Today you can find a wide range of materials to suit every taste and price category. The most affordable and reliable material is slate. However, many are confused by his appearance. As an alternative, you can use modern polymer versions of slate - Euroslate or Ondulin.

    Today, more and more often, developers give preference to another roofing material - metal tiles. The coating is relatively inexpensive, and at the same time it has its own appearance and excellent performance characteristics. The disadvantage of metal tile coating is the low level of sound absorption.

    Roof shapes, professional advice, details on video:

    Thus, the roofs of houses are done both by one’s own hands and by specialists. But it is worth noting that the first option can sometimes outperform the work of experienced installers. This is due to the fact that the owners of country houses are trying to make high-quality roofing work. It is logical that a well-designed and executed roof will last for many years, so it is worth ordering from trusted specialists. At the same time, it is very important not to waste your financial resources on additional repairs. It’s better to carry out all the work efficiently once and arrange a comfortable home for yourself and your loved ones.

    Having finished assembling the roof, you can begin arranging the drainage system. You can learn how to carry out such work from the article: "". We recommend watching photo and video materials on this topic in order to keep abreast of all the innovations in the construction market.

    The fundamental structures of the house will be subject to the destructive effects of external factors without durable, reliable roof. In order to save money, homeowners often do all the roofing work themselves. It should be borne in mind that this stage of construction is as important as laying the foundation or erecting walls. Moreover, before starting work, you should determine what type of flooring is suitable for the house under construction?

    Difficulties in choosing a roof structure: food for thought

    Usually on initial stage design attracts attention to several types of “roofing”, differing in the complexity of the work, the amount and type of material. The roof of a house built with your own hands should not retain precipitation on the surface, withstand gusts of wind, and please with its appearance.

    To briefly describe what is available to independent execution variety of designs, the following accents are obtained:

    • The method of constructing a frame with one gentle slope is the most economical and easiest to implement.
    • A roof with two slopes is traditionally most in demand among owners of houses and cottages; it is enough to correctly position and strengthen two simple slopes. The work is completed quickly and easily.
    • The hipped design looks elegant and can vary from half-hip to half-hip. It is more complex, but also provides maximum opportunities for creating a unique exterior of the building.
    • The hip version is a frame that is flat on 4 sides, two opposite surfaces of which form regular triangles, and the other two are trapezoids.
    • The half-hip variety is a kind of constructive symbiosis, combining the features of a gable and hip design, characterized by broken roof lines and complex design. Strict proportions of four triangular slopes under one peak and harmonious execution distinguish the roofing “tent” in the form of a pyramid.
    • Looks original attic structure with characteristic breaks in the middle of the slopes or bevels on the vertical sides. As a rule, compatriots want to receive additional square meters living space, using the attic for these purposes.

    Attention! Before you make the roof of the house, you should take into account that the increased load on the ceiling and the increase in the area of ​​the house is directly proportional to the increase in additional fasteners. Large number slopes leads to an increase in labor costs for its construction. A novice builder should not take on the construction of complex structures, because... this requires serious calculations and a complex rafter design.

    Dependence of roof performance characteristics on roof type

    Future view decorative covering influences the choice of cross-section of wooden elements. For example, when covering with ceramic tiles, you should make the most durable frame, because piece material has much more weight than even slate or metal sheet. The complexity of the truss structure, its area, and the type of coating affect the consumption of materials. In turn, the slope is carried out based on the area of ​​the roof and the type of roofing material: metal, ceramic, ; slate; soft roll materials, metal sheets, pr.

    Multi-layer roofing “garment”

    Having decided on the choice of roof shape, a drawing is made where the main elements are indicated: rafter system, supports, joint connections, thermal insulation, roofing.

    In the simplest case ( flat version roof) the layering of the pie is as follows:

    • ceiling;
    • vapor barrier layer;
    • insulation;
    • reinforcing screed;
    • waterproofing layer.

    At pitched roof The main element is the rafter frame, which holds the entire load and consists of:

    • Mauerlat;
    • rafters;
    • lathing;
    • crossbars;
    • puffs.
    • waterproofing;
    • insulation;
    • vapor barrier coating;
    • counter-lattice;
    • roof.

    To hold the weight, they use material from coniferous trees with a certain moisture content (20%), without defects in the form of knots. For the work you will still need fasteners (staples, screws, nails, screws), necessary tool, equipment.

    The order must not be disturbed: technology for constructing a pitched roof

    Stage # 1 Formation of a reinforced base for the rafters

    By upper crown When masonry walls of a house are formed, a layer of reinforced concrete is formed, increasing the load-bearing capacity of the structures and leveling them in a horizontal position. There is no need to reinforce walls if they are made of logs or timber. In the liquid filled solution of the belt, studs are attached - fasteners to the base of the reinforcing screed for the Mauerlat, timber with a section of 150x150. In this case, the ends of the studs should protrude 30 mm from the support beam - the frame for the rafter frame. Cross section the more powerful the rafter design and the weight of the roof, the greater the support structure. Before laying the Mauerlat, the reinforced edging must be waterproofed, for example, with roofing felt. At the same time, in order to reduce the risk of rotting, the minimum distance of the support beam from the wall must be maintained at least 10 cm. The support beam is fixed to the protruding studs using nuts with a non-corrosive coating. The Mauerlat beams are laid strictly parallel to the ridge.

    Attention! All stages of roof construction work are carried out with constant monitoring of horizontal compliance. A building level is used for this.

    Stage # 2 Selection of wooden elements

    The installation stage of compass-like structures is preceded by a preliminary wooden blank (150x50), possibly timber, small fragments of boards different sizes and sections that will be used as crossbars, spacers, ties, struts, strengthening the rafter legs and enhancing the strength of the entire structure.

    The frame, which carries the main load, consists of rafters connected to the mauerlat. If the hip option is chosen, then shortened “legs” are also needed that support the diagonal rafter laying on both sides (springs) standing on the mauerlat. They should have a cross-section of 5x15cm and fasten the rafter supports.

    Stage #3 Installation of the rafter frame

    • In any case, when decorating the frame with rafters, one of their ends is placed in a special recess against the Mauerlat, and the other rests against the ridge or rests on the opposite supporting element. In the lower part, the rafters are additionally nailed to the mauerlat with nails with a working rod length of 20 cm. Between themselves wooden supports are also fixed with bolts. To do this, sockets of the required diameter are drilled into the tree.

    Important! Before building a roof with two slopes, pine or larch wood is pre-treated with fire-resistant antiseptic compounds. The first two triangular frames are assembled near the house, on the ground, and in finished form are lifted onto the mauerlat, where they are immediately temporarily secured with spacers and joined to the ridge structure. Only after this the remaining rafters are installed.

    • The “legs” are located at a certain distance from each other, based on the load. The most is nothing more than triangles lined up in a row, the tops of which are attached to a longitudinal beam.
    • The pitch between the frame elements must be such as to support the weight of the sheathing, finishing coating, load from steam and waterproofing, insulation.
    • The magnitude of the inclination angle is important detail during construction. It is selected specifically for each region. In cold conditions with a lot of precipitation best option– 40-45°. In regions characterized by windy weather, a slope of 20° should be maintained. Hot, dry areas allow the use of a minimum angle of 3°.

    Stage # 4 Lathing installation

    The filling of the sheathing is carried out after the installation of all rafters has been completed. It maintains the necessary gap between the heat insulator and the waterproof coating, which removes the formed condensate. fits on it waterproofing material, preventing the penetration of moisture into the room and allowing vaporous emissions from warm room into the insulation.

    The sheathing is mounted on the rafters to hold the roof in place. Useful for this large size complete boards (about 2 m) 25 cm thick. Based on the type of coating, they fill solid boards (for tiles, roll covering) or lattice sheathing (slate, metal sheet), attached perpendicular to the rafters. Joints between boards that do not exceed a gap of 5 mm must be fixed on supports.

    Stage # 5 Heat, steam, waterproofing

    • You can insulate the roof using mineral wool, carefully placing it in the space between the rafters. “dampen” noise.
    • A vapor barrier membrane (reinforced film) is stretched over the top of the mineral wool, preventing the insulation from getting wet. It should cover the frame with some margin, designed to accommodate changes in parameters in the event of thermal expansion. Be sure to ensure tight contact of the film with external walls, pipes. If it is necessary to glue the canvases together, this must be done carefully, obtaining a complete connection.
    • Ventilation ducts also help maintain a special microclimate. To do this, small gaps should be left in the sheathing: 2 or even 3 channels on each side.

    Stage # 6 Installation of roofing

    The final stage is to correctly lay it directly on the sheathing. roofing elements so that they can withstand loads and create an airtight coating. Laying direction is “right to left” and “bottom to top”. The easiest (and cheaper) way, which does not affect reliability at all, is to use slate. It is also unpretentious in installation. This is the option that is suitable when arranging a roof with your own hands for the first time. Don't forget about drainage system. It must be used along the entire perimeter of the roof, and effectively remove precipitation in the required direction and required quantity.

    Arranging the roof does not take a critically long time, provided that it is done carefully preparatory stage, the technology for performing the work is followed. There is no need to rush and buy cheap materials. You should also carefully study the theoretical material and watch a video on how to properly build a roof. At a sufficient level, master the “basics” of working with metalworking and woodworking tools.

    Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you don’t have the necessary experience, take on complex designs not worth it. The best option for a small residential building - a do-it-yourself gable roof.

    A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:


    Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The beam must be made from coniferous wood and have square section 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

    Rafter legs- This long boards section 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

    It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. The beam is supported from below by vertical posts, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

    Racks – vertical bars with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and serving to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

    The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. The side edges of the truss are strengthened with braces and the bearing capacity designs.

    Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

    A log is a long beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which the vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

    The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

    If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beams. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the external walls. Due to the absence of racks, attic space can be used to furnish an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

    If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system. A bench is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If the ceilings are interior spaces are designed on different levels, racks are replaced brick wall, dividing the attic into two halves.

    The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. All wooden elements Before assembly, they are thoroughly treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

    To work you will need:

    • timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
    • boards 50x150 mm;
    • boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
    • roofing felt;
    • metal studs;
    • jigsaw and hacksaw;
    • hammer;
    • nails and screws;
    • square and building level.

    IN wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

    IN brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:


    The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

    When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

    Knowing the length of the purlin between the external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

    The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

    The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

    The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it touches the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut off circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

    Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with inner surface walls and cut a groove in it for the rafter. edge rafter leg cut to the level of the upper corner of the cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

    Third option: ceiling beams extend beyond the edge outer wall by 40-50 cm, and the trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

    Installation of layered rafters

    Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a bed laid on intermediate supports, and FIG. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

    The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:


    When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

    For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal strips from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

    Between the boards and the film it is necessary to leave ventilation gap, so first they stuff it onto the film wooden slats 3-4 cm thick, placing them along the rafters.

    The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

    After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed various materials– from wood to siding.

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