This sheet material is currently the most popular for cladding. internal partitions, and installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Marking the room

The first action before starting construction work, is the layout of the room. If you decide to install drywall to finish the surfaces, you should consider some points.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. Moreover, almost each size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and cut the material as efficiently as possible, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken to be 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Likewise, the width of the premises should preferably be a multiple of the whole number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then the cutting of the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the sheathing and selecting materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties incorporated by the developers into such building materials, gypsum plasterboard is divided into the following types:

• regular drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within normal limits. Widely used due to ease of use, good machinability, light weight and cost-effectiveness;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and others non-residential premises. Can be used near heating devices, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant plasterboard, allowing its use in premises with high humidity– baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses, where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
• fire - a moisture-resistant material that is almost universal.

According to their purpose, plasterboards are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time; such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of a fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
• wall – for finishing walls and installing partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

At this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight standard sheet 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Tool for working with drywall

The material does not have high mechanical properties and easy to process simple tool. You can use this tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose – sawing plasterboard sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• jigsaw – cutting out parts of complex shapes according to markings;
• construction knife – trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
• construction plumb line – control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpenter's level - the same;
• electric drill – drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing plasterboard parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• paint brush – for applying primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• drill attachment for stirring dry mixtures;
• sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
• container for stirring mixtures.

This is the main set of tools with which leveling, priming, and decorative finishing of plasterboard walls are carried out.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty – repair and preparation of the surface of plasterboard boards for applying the main leveling layer;
• tape - serpyanka made of fiberglass;
• fasteners for drywall - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under sheets of plasterboard during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL various sizes, including 6.5 mm thick – for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick – for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for laying floor coverings with dry screed.

Assembling a gypsum board wall

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is far from an idle question. Despite the apparent benefits of using wood, the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of every part, which will help get rid of the risk of rot or fungal diseases. Fire protection treatment, especially if hidden electrical wiring is installed inside the frame, which is what most often happens. In addition to processing wood, electrical installations must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material based on straightness and absence of helical deformations;
• changes in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity conditions in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, which results in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, a large amount of time.

All these shortcomings are free metal frames, made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several types are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, designated as CD, with dimensions cross section 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack-mount, UD – 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions of 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

U-shaped straight hangers for connecting ceiling and CD profiles are produced as auxiliary parts.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

A metal profile frame for a wall begins with marking its location. It is done on the floor and then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line and a painting cord, which will ensure strict verticality of the structure.

The construction of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, using UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles.

Fastening the base parts must be done in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, you should remember that the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet are multiples of 600 mm, so the racks are installed based on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame you need to stretch a vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film about 200 microns thick is used. It is pulled onto the frame and secured with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to attach a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows you to attach the sheet flush without destroying the surface of the coating.
• similarly install the remaining parts of the wall cladding on one side, making a cutout for the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which at the same time serves as a soundproofing device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose they are used various materials, both slab (mini-slab) and roll, such as isover, the installation of insulation of more than 2 layers will entail the need to construct a three-dimensional frame. Insulation of walls and soundproofing will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, proceeding in the same way as for the first side;
• sheets of plasterboard are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out in increments of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a hacksaw and a broom. The use of a hand grinder burns through the protective layer, and subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end must be painted over with a special protective paint, consisting of 85% fine metallic zinc.

Leveling walls with plasterboard

Often during construction or renovation, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using gypsum plasterboard than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when plasterboard is attached to the wall on a profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install floor and ceiling guides. Then installing the racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, it turns out flat wall and all that remains is to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coating.

There is a way to level a wall with plasterboard without a frame. It should be noted that the quality of the base surface must be quite high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you must carefully remove all protrusions that could interfere with it. Installation technologies can be like this:

• attach the plasterboard piece to the wall and drill the mounting holes. In this case, marks from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and use these marks to drill holes for installing plastic inserts;
• Apply cement or gypsum-based adhesive to the wall and level it with a comb spatula. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, secure it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to a wall, you can easily deal with the rest of the covering elements.

Surface putty

For final preparation The plane of the walls is used for finishing coating using putty. This is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle tape;
• applying a primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with a finishing composition of putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a plasterboard wall, any developer can cope with this task on his own. You just need to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited specialists will perform this work at a price per square meter from 600 to 800 rubles. However, in any case - good luck to you!

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only technical aspects installation, but also the characteristics of the material itself.

Peculiarities

Drywall sheet is lightweight and flexible material, with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, house or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

Structure plasterboard sheet(GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

• allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
• allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of various shapes and complexity;
• have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
• differ in sound insulation;
• characterized by high thermal insulation;
• made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
• fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

• are light in weight;
• easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
• the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
• a coating made from this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
• leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

• walls that divide the room;
• partitions of any shape;
• complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in short terms, their cost is much lower than options made of brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary engineering communications and provide additional insulation.

The material is light in weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience using the usual tools that are found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

• by profile type: regular and arched;
• By functional purpose: temporary or capital;
• by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
• by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls from gypsum boards differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners, and are often complemented by stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Typically, the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify general view premises, contribute to its division into different zones and add additional functionality to the finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

• the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
• cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
• The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

• Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
• Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, width is 1.2 m, length - 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification has found wide application in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in the cladding of ceilings. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

• GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of wall option, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and showers).
• GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. He has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber contains active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all this is enhanced with special fire-resistant impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where increased demands are made fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

• GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
• Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in covering surfaces and creating decorative elements indoors.

Ceiling

Today, plasterboard is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and constructing multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

• when the ceiling is uneven;
• if necessary, hide utility lines laid on top - pipes, massive ventilation ducts, unsightly cables and others;
• for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling finishing using gypsum plasterboard can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior work for interior decoration are associated with the installation of drywall. It is used to create a perfectly smooth coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements of the design structure. In addition to its decorative function, gypsum boards also have a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and room insulation. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall using glue or on a pre-assembled frame; as a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, gypsum boards are laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard lining is carried out in any room; it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in the winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to insulate the room, preventing the accumulation of dangerous condensation and the appearance of fungus. Finishing plasterboard wall could be anyone.

Floor

Drywall can also be used to finish the floor using the dry method. Of course, for this purpose, only particularly durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to abrasion are used. mechanical damage. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard topcoat - parquet, linoleum, carpet, tile or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - it is high speed works and their efficiency.

In design, gypsum boards are often used to construct multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

When creating partitions, plasterboard is the number 1 material. It is what is most often used to divide a room and create a stylish and functional zoning space. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers in plasterboard structures look very impressive in the interior, and in homes with small children they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These could be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches special attention You should pay attention to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only support lightweight objects.

Frame

Most often, work on covering the surface with plasterboard is carried out using a frame method; for this purpose, wooden or metal sheathing. It is very important to apply the correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor where the mounting of the supporting panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the marking is its width. Markings for rack-mount metal profiles are applied perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is finished first, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the installation of gypsum boards, and only then is the transition to the next surface made.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

• the marks on the floor and walls need to be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
• the installation of hangers is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
• rack-mounts are fixed into the guides metal profiles so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
• The building level controls the verticality of the base and shelves, after which you need to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Scope of application

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

• ceiling finishing;
• installation of partitions;
• giving the walls perfect evenness;
• construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
• masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
• repair of old coatings;
• giving surfaces relief;
• creating multi-level structures;
• insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance is usually used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes, and also ventilation devices. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. To do this, use a regular construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades. The sequence of actions is described by instructions according to which the following actions must be performed:

• the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
• markings are applied with a pencil;
• using a knife, cut the cardboard from the outside;

• The gypsum board is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line;
• the plasterboard panel is returned to its original position, placed on its edge and bent;
• the cardboard from the inside is also cut through, but the blade should not pass through;
• the sheet turns over inner side, is again placed on the support and finally breaks.

After the sheet has been prepared, you should begin directly assembling the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

• Guides are attached along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor; self-tapping screws are used for this;
• a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
• Planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
• The stiffening ribs are fixed to self-tapping screws;

• then communications, wires and cables are carried into the cavity, and they are also filled with mineral wool;
• a sheet of drywall is attached directly to the frame;

• the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
• A primer is applied over the panels and the finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to following points when installing gypsum boards:

• the sheet is attached to metal profiles using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws;
• First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then the central part. Self-tapping screws are placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
• the self-tapping screw is screwed in so that the caps slightly “sink” into the drywall; under no circumstances should they stick out above the surface;
• If possible, before starting cladding, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely available in construction stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if it is stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

• try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
• evaluate the conditions in which the plasterboard was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

• Personally inspect each purchased sheet of plasterboard; there should be no chips or deformations on it. No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed on a product of proper quality. Any violation of integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
• You need to carefully monitor loading and unloading operations. Even if a sheet of drywall was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same condition. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
• If possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. To start, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips; a high-quality sheet should have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife should move evenly and smoothly when cutting;
• If you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that the stingy always pays twice. Products handicraft may not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeits and defects, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production facilities all over the world. In Russia alone there are about 10 production plants building materials. The Knauf company is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands – Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In terms of production volumes in 2002, it took first place, leaving all its main competitors far behind. Distinctive feature GCR of this brand is highly environmentally safe, confirmed by the “Leaf of Life” and “Ecomaterial” certificates. In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than products from other manufacturers. However, its price is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established production of drywall throughout the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of quantity production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge plasterboard has a fairly affordable price. It was this company that, at the beginning of this century, made a real revolution in the production of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all edges of which were covered with cardboard. This processing of panels has become a kind of calling card of the company.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. The leading Russian manufacturers include the following:

• "Gypsum" (Volgograd)– produces drywall under the famous Volma brand. The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and reasonable price.
• Gifas (Sverdlovsk)– produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of performance parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

• Abdullingips (Kazan)– has established the production of conventional gypsum boards and gypsum boards, which are distinguished by their low price compared to other Russian analogues.
• "Golden Group Gips" (Tolyatti)– produces sheets of plasterboard using equipment from the French concern Lafarge. The products are distinguished by exceptional quality and competitive prices.

Various niches (with decorative lighting or simply highlighted in color), ledges and shelves formed by wall elements and having both regular and the most bizarre shapes - diversify and complement the design of the room, hide technological communications, and brighten up the possible nondescript contours of the original layout of the room. Non-standard solutions They allow you to add individuality, set the “mood” of an entire room or part of it: create a cozy corner in the room or, conversely, emphasize the business aspect of the room.

Protrusions and niches, of course, can be made from brick and various blocks, bent elements can be sculpted from papier-mâché or cast from plaster, but in 99% of cases the task at hand can be solved easier and more economically - with the help of plasterboard structures. Mounting plasterboard structures on the wall with your own hands is not difficult; you will need a little patience and perseverance.

To create plasterboard structures on the wall you will need the following materials:

• UD profile (so-called “guide”);
• 9mm thick plasterboard sheets (“ceiling”);
• corner protection profile;
• a box of screws for the profile (the so-called “bugs”);
• a box of screws for attaching drywall to the profile;
• fine-grained gypsum putty for final finishing("finish");
• It is possible to pack sets of dowels for fastening to a concrete/brick wall, if required.

From the tool you must have:

• metal scissors for working with profiles;
• screwdriver;
• an extended screwdriver blade (can be made from an inexpensive suitable screwdriver by breaking the handle);
• long metal ruler;
• construction knife (with replaceable break-off blades);
• wide roller with long pile (for wetting drywall).

The possibilities for the shapes of plasterboard structures are wide, but not limitless. Our future structure must be mentally divided into its component parts - individual elements that will have their own separate profile frame. Individual elements can have the shape of a parallelepiped, a truncated pyramid, a sector, an arc - it all depends on your imagination.

The edges of the elements can be smooth or arched. Moreover, an arc can be two faces at once, and an arc can have several bends. Minimum thickness such an element is limited by the width of the base (or edge) of the UD profile + the thickness of the plasterboard sheet. Maximum dimensions limited by imagination and room size.

I will describe the step-by-step procedure for installing plasterboard wall structures of varying complexity using the example of an apartment wall. monolithic house, in which the builders protrude 250 mm from the wall, forming not very attractive rectangular niches.

In the area of ​​the left niche in the room, a place was designed for family relaxation and communication - which means the place for the TV is in this niche. Around the TV we design simple rectangular shelves in 2 rows. Our shelves will be illuminated. We decorate the top of the niche with an arch.

Photo of niches and shelves made of plasterboard for example -

The niche will be two shades darker, and the color a little colder than the rest of the walls, which will visually make the niche deeper and the room larger. Before starting work, we lay out the wiring for future lighting, power supply for the TV and related devices, speaker system wiring, Internet and TV cables. In the area of ​​the right niche in the room, a work corner with a table, space for a laptop, shelves with office equipment and books above the table is designed. It turns out to be a corner office.

We decorate the right niche with a wide narrow arc with narrow decorative shelves, leaving space for a bookshelf. Although the “rest area” and the “office” are planned to be separated by a narrow long aquarium, the design of the two niches harmoniously overlaps, forming one whole.

This is achieved by maintaining the same level for the key points of the two structures. For example, the top edge of the bottom shelf on the left is located on the same level as the bottom edge of the arc on the right, and the top edge of the bottom shelf on the right coincides with the top edge of the top shelf on the left, and so on.

This is not noticeable to the naked eye, but our subconscious this fact captures, unmistakably capturing the orderly in the seemingly disorderly. Without a drawing it will not be possible to maintain such proportions - every millimeter is important, especially for bent surfaces.

Thus, we get 3 types of structures, varying in manufacturing complexity, by combining and modifying which you can get almost any conceived design:

• rectangular shelf;
• arch;
• thin decorative arc.

Rectangular shelf

A rectangular shelf is the simplest design on a plasterboard wall. The installation technology is the same as for making a plasterboard box: a frame is made from a UD profile directly on the wall. To do this, first screw the rectangle of the contour of our future shelf to the wall. We make the frame parallel to the wall, screw the edges of the frame perpendicular to the wall. The frame is ready.

There is no need to overdo it with additional partitions in the frame; it is enough to make only the ribs. The frame itself may not be rigid enough, but by covering the edges of the shelf with plasterboard, we will give the structure the necessary rigidity.

Use a level when installing. Lapped and skewed edges look terrible, unless of course this is provided for by the design. So you will have to work hard with precision, both with making the frame and with cutting and screwing the drywall. Minor defects will be hidden with putty, but it is much easier to avoid these defects than to then apply layer after layer of putty in an attempt to correct the situation.

Cutting drywall evenly couldn't be easier. You will need a long metal ruler and a construction knife. We draw a knife along the ruler from the edge of the plate to the next edge, cutting the layer of cardboard. We break the plaster slab on the edge of the table - the break will be along the cut line. We cut the cardboard from the opposite edge along the break. The corner perforated profile protecting the corners does not need to be screwed. It is glued to the putty and closed with it.

Arch

An arch is a little more difficult to make than a rectangular shelf, but the principle is the same, with the exception of the bent edge. It should be noted that for shaped structures there is a special sheet of plasterboard with notches and an elastic backing. However, such material is much more expensive, and you can’t buy it everywhere. We will make do with a 9mm thick ceiling slab.

We will need a template for drawing the curve outline on the wall and a sheet of drywall. To make a template, we print our drawing in natural sizes, glue the sheets together and cut out the template. We make the frame for the bent edge from the same UD profile, but we cut the side ribs of the profile symmetrically to the base with a step of ~40mm. It turns out to be a kind of flexible “lizard spine with spikes” from the base of the profile and protruding rectangles - the ribs.

Using these same rectangles, we screw the profile to the wall, orienting the base of the profile along the contour previously drawn on the wall. We assemble the edge of the structure parallel to the wall directly on a sheet of plasterboard along the drawn contour of the bend, cut it off excess material on a bend straight along the frame. We assemble the box, leaving only the bent edge at the end.

We will bend a sheet of drywall using ordinary water– simply moisten the side of the sheet with a roller, which will have a large radius. Before installing the bent edge, you need to install a stop for the sheet from the edge from which you will start bending - it will do wooden block or a piece of profile. The screwdriver is loaded, are the screws conveniently at hand? Let's begin!

Everything needs to be done quickly and the first time. Only the cardboard and the layer of plaster closest to it should get wet. If the sheet is over-moistened, the gypsum will become loose and crumble, and the screws will press the sheet with their heads and go right through. After all, the sheet, like a spring, will try to take an even position. A sheet that is too dry will break. So we go over it with a roller, generously moistened with water (so that it flows), quickly apply the sheet to the stop and, pressing it to the frame, quickly screw the sheet in small increments, bending the sheet more and more step by step. We walk parallel on both sides to prevent skewing. If everything is done correctly, and the bending radius is not extremely small, then there should be no problems. We can also perform an S-shaped bend using this method, if your design requires it.

Thin decorative arc

The arc differs in installation from the arch in that it has two curved edges. It’s just as much more difficult to make an arc than an arch. The design assumed an arc thickness of 60 mm. Therefore, a profile with a 40mm base was chosen, and cuts on the profile were made along one of the ribs and the base. That is, the second profile rib remained the load-bearing element of the profile.

Otherwise, the procedure remains the same with the installation of the arch. In our case, the edge of the arc with a large radius of extreme points comes close to the wall. This means that it will not be possible to mount the structure directly on the wall. The wall will not allow you to tighten the screws at the edges of the arc. We mount the arc on a temporary base, for example on wooden shield or an old door. Let the drywall dry thoroughly. We unscrew the edge parallel to the shield, unscrew the structure from the temporary base and move it finished design on the wall.

Decorative coating

Matte paint perfectly emphasizes the elegance of plasterboard structures on the wall and is the easiest to apply decorative coating. It is also easy to choose a dark and cool tone of the main color to highlight or emphasize the design. However, wall paint also highlights all defects well, especially holes when puttying.

Decorative plaster great alternative V in this case, hides minor defects, you can choose the color flexibly, but it costs more and is more difficult to apply. Wallpaper can also be used, but provided that the plasterboard structure does not have much complex shape, otherwise this process threatens to turn into a very difficult task.

Express your individuality! I hope this article helps you.

A multi-level plasterboard ceiling is modern solution, which will give the room style and make it interesting. This ceiling has its own undeniable advantages. It hides all slab differences and irregularities, making the ceiling perfectly smooth. All communications can be hidden under the slabs, so there is no need to make grooves in the walls for electrical wiring and air-discharging elements of air conditioners. And if you place modern, light ones under the ceiling insulating materials, this will additionally insulate the room and improve sound insulation. This ceiling can be given the most sophisticated and graceful shapes. You can easily install a variety of lamps - spotlights and pendants.

Materials for work

Drywall is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. Consists of a gypsum board covered with a layer of cardboard. Ceiling plasterboard is 8 mm thick, quite flexible and lightweight, it is easy to cut with a construction knife. Install two-level ceiling Even beginners can do it with their own hands.

To work, you will need metal profiles onto which plasterboard slabs are attached. They come in two types - guide profiles and with stiffeners. You should also purchase special screws.

Choosing a form

The plasterboard construction will “eat” the height of the ceilings. The first level lowers the surface by 3-5 cm, and the second by 10 cm.

If the ceilings are relatively flat, then they can serve as the first level to which shaped plasterboard projections can be attached.

Smooth and rounded elements look very good on the ceiling, but strict geometric lines will also fit quite harmoniously, for example, a protruding threshold along the entire perimeter of the ceiling, which even a beginner can handle making. Drywall is quite easy to work with, so even a simple protrusion can be rounded in the corners, thereby making it more attractive. You can hide a cornice behind such a threshold, and then the illusion of curtains falling from the ceiling will be created. It is possible to hide electrical wiring and install a number of spotlights above certain areas or along the entire perimeter.

The desired shape of the ceiling is first born on paper, in the form of a sketch. On which, in addition to the geometric figure, you need to note the location of the vertical posts, at a distance of 30-40 cm. In rounded corners, the posts should be located more tightly. Afterwards the drawing is transferred to the ceiling.

Installation of the frame begins from a lower level. The contours of the future ceiling are made from guide profiles. Rounded and smooth lines are obtained by cutting the profile at the bending points with metal scissors and bending it around the circumference. The guide profiles that define the shape are connected by uprights with stiffening ribs of such length that the second level of the ceiling should be lowered. It is better to immediately prepare all the rounded corners so that they are the same.

The frame is attached to the surface along a given contour using special “crab” plasterboard hangers, with which you can adjust the height. The hangers are placed at a distance of 40 cm. In the corners the structure is fixed rigidly; additional supports can be added. The frame must be measured with a level during installation. After attaching the main structure, which defines the contour of our future ceiling, rack profiles are installed at a distance of 60 cm, which are fastened with transverse jumpers, also observing a step of 60 cm.

Sometimes the crossbars are not secured so that they can be moved, adjusted to fit the drywall joints.

The suspensions are attached to the ceiling using two dowels with an 8*80 screw. The profiles are connected to each other with metal screws 3.5*11.

Installation of sheets

Once the frame is assembled and leveled, the cavities can be filled with insulating material, fiberglass, or foam sheets and electrical wiring installed. Then the ceiling is installed. The sheets should be pre-cut on the floor. It is convenient to immediately cut holes for spotlights. It is advisable to leave allowances of a few centimeters along the rounding line.

It is better to cut and remove excess on the spot than to get an unwanted gap between the slabs. To make it easier to bend the drywall covering the smooth and rounded elements during installation, the part can be cut on the reverse side with transverse slits and the material can be broken along them. Some people recommend simply moistening the sheets a little beforehand for this purpose.

Let's start installing the slabs using self-tapping screws with fine threads, you can take sizes 3.5*25 and 3.5*32. The operation is best performed with a screwdriver. The self-tapping screw is screwed in, slightly recessing the head into the surface.

It is unacceptable for it to go through the sheet completely; if this happens, you need to retreat a few centimeters and redo the fastening.

The fastening pitch is 15 cm. The sheet can be released by securing it with at least two self-tapping screws along each side. It is advisable to use whole sheets to obtain neat joints and cut less material. If two cut slabs fall on the joint, their edge from the front part needs to be cleaned off a little diagonally with a knife in order to perfectly align the seam with plaster in the future. After the main mass of the ceiling is fixed, they begin covering the threshold. First, the elements of the side part are attached and only then the lower plates.

When all the slabs are installed, the ceiling is primed with a universal primer. After complete drying, all seams are taped with serpyanka mounting tape, and all outer corners are secured and leveled with special corners. For straight lines use metal corners, and for smooth and rounded ones - a special flexible plastic corner. The technique for attaching it is simple: a layer of plaster is smeared on the corner of the structure, the corner is sunk into it, and the excess mortar that protrudes through the holes is removed with a spatula. After the second layer of plaster has dried, the corner is finally removed. You should also putty all the screw heads. Check first to see if there are any protrusions and tighten them manually.

Plaster all seams flush with the slab. After all the leveling elements of the plaster have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling is puttied, you can immediately use the finishing solution. The surfaces are allowed to dry and cleaned of unevenness and sagging plaster using a fine-grained construction sanding float. If the holes for spotlights were not previously made in the slabs, they can be cut with a special glass drill of the required diameter, and electrical wiring wires are pulled into the holes.

At this stage they glue ceiling molding with special glue or plaster. After which the entire surface is primed, preparing for painting. Coloring different levels ceiling in different colors, it is advisable to glue the joints with special paper adhesive tape, which will eliminate paint smudges. First the ceiling is painted, and then the baguettes. After finishing the work, spotlights are installed, and pendant lights are installed using special dowels or plasterboard fasteners.

Video

This video will demonstrate the installation of a complex two-level ceiling.

Economical and easy to install, LED strip is widely used for lighting decoration of ceilings. And in most cases, such decor involves constructing a plasterboard niche for LED lighting - a special ledge on which lighting elements will be placed.

In our article we will describe the technology for manufacturing such suspended ceiling parts, and also tell you in just a few words about the features of connecting LED lighting.

Materials and tools

A plasterboard niche for LED lighting is a specially shaped cornice that runs along the perimeter of the room or along the edge of the elements of a multi-level ceiling.

Examples of such design solutions you can see in the photo in this article.

It is also possible to manufacture recesses in the wall with decorative lamps. True, in this case, LED strips are rarely used; spotlights are more often used.

To build such a structure we will need:

• Drywall (regular or moisture resistant).
• Profile (starting and main).
• Ceiling direct suspensions.
• Fastening elements (dowels for fixing the frame to the ceiling, self-tapping screws for profiles and plasterboard).

Among the tools with which we will create a design for plasterboard lighting, we will need:

• Hammer drill or impact drill with a Pobedit drill bit.
• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver attachment for working with plasterboard.
• Metal scissors.
• Pliers.
• Assembly knife.
• Screwdrivers.
• A set of tools for puttying and finishing gypsum boards.

All these tools should be at hand - only then can we start working.

Installation of a cornice for LED strip

Frame assembly

Cornice made of gypsum plasterboards for installation LED strip mounted on a special frame. To make the frame, we use galvanized metal profiles used to assemble the sheathing of a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Pay attention! The structure can be mounted either on a permanent ceiling or on a single-level plasterboard ceiling.

We assemble the lathing according to the following scheme:

• Using a level, draw a horizontal baseline on the walls. The line distance from the ceiling should be 7–10 cm.
• We fasten along the perimeter of the room along the base line starting profile for gypsum boards.
• Having retreated 150-200 mm from the wall, we attach the same starting profile to the ceiling, forming an internal perimeter.
• We attach sections of the main profile to the starting profile on the ceiling every 40-50 cm. The length of the segments should be equal to the distance from ceiling base to the baseline.
• We connect the wall starting profile with hangers from the main profile using 300 mm long panel sections. The projections are 150 mm and will be the main one for the load-bearing cornice.
• Frames of large dimensions can be further strengthened with panels of the main profile, securing them to the bottom side.

Pay attention! At this stage, it is necessary to lay the wiring to connect electrical appliances. We lay the wiring in plastic corrugated pipes, fixing them to the vertical posts using clamps.

Profile covering

When the frame is assembled, you can begin covering it with gypsum board sheets.

You are most likely already familiar with the technology of sheathing from numerous videos on our website, so here we provide only general instructions:

• We cut a narrow strip from a sheet of plasterboard and sheathe the vertical part of the frame, hiding the laid wiring behind the sheet.
• If it is necessary to sheathe a curved surface, we roll the gypsum board with a needle roller and bend it after preliminary moistening.
• We sew a gypsum board strip onto the lower part, forming the base of our structure.

There are different types of plasterboard niches for hidden lighting.

With an open one, you can immediately install electrical appliances on the ledge, but with a closed one, everything is somewhat more complicated:

• Closed plasterboard niches with lighting are equipped with a special side that directs the light to the ceiling (see also article about).
• To form it, we attach a starting profile to the edge of the gypsum board protrusion and fix a strip of gypsum board up to 50 mm high to it.
• On outside corner we glue a special plastic or metal overlay, which should protect the plasterboard sheathing from damage.

After the frame is formed and sheathed with gypsum board, it can be puttied and finished (painted, plastered, wallpapered). After finishing, we proceed to the final stage - installing the LED strip with our own hands.

Connecting the backlight

Before installing LEDs in a plasterboard niche, the tape must be prepared:

• From the coil of tape we cut off a fragment of the length we need. You only need to cut the tape in places that have special markings.
• If necessary, we connect several tapes into one using special connectors. You can also simply solder the contacts using a soldering iron.

Advice! It is better to connect sections longer than 5-7 m in parallel, so the glow will be uniform along the entire length.

• We connect the LED lamps to the power supply, observing the polarity. When choosing a power supply, it is better to buy a model whose power is 25-30% greater than the total power of the LEDs connected to it.
  Of course, the price of such a power supply will be slightly higher, but there will be a guarantee that it will not burn out after several months of operation.

• To connect color lighting we use a special RGB controller.
• We check the functionality of the assembled system. If everything lights up the way we want, we can stick the tape on the cornice.
  
• We lay the connected tape behind the side, making sure that the wires or lamps do not come into contact with the metal elements of the sheathing.

To sum it up

A properly equipped plasterboard niche for lighting can radically transform the appearance of a room. So if you are interested in lighting decor, we hope this article will be useful to you!

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