Knowing how to make a tongue and groove manual router, you can even make at home not only beautiful, but also reliable furniture, but also various wood structures characterized by excellent bearing capacity. The tongue-and-groove system connects not only elements of various furniture (tables, chairs and shelves), but also frames low-rise buildings that experience significant loads during operation.

In order to make a tenon on a hand router wooden beam, several conditions must be met:

• securely fix the workpiece and correctly orient it in relation to the guide sole of the router;
• set the height of the working part of the cutter so that the tool removes a layer of material of the required thickness from the surface of the workpiece.

Even using the simplest tenoning device for a router when performing such processing, you can not only increase its productivity and quality of the result, but also make process more secure. It is especially important to use such a device, which can be made with your own hands, in cases where the furniture is produced not in single copies, but in series (in this case, the craftsman has to carry out large number similar operations with both the same type and those with various shapes and sizes of wooden parts).

Tools used

The creation of tenons and grooves, with the help of which the connection of two wooden blanks will be ensured, involves taking a sample of material on the side surface of a beam or board using a hand router. At the same time, all geometric parameters elements of the future connection.

To perform this operation with a hand router, you can use tools with shanks with a diameter of both 8 and 12 mm. The most universal in this case is a groove cutter, the cutting part of which works as follows:

• the lateral surface forms the walls of the groove and the sides of the tenon;
• the end side processes the bottom of the groove and removes a layer of material of the required thickness from the base of the tenon.

So using the tool of this type, you can form both a tenon and a groove on the side surface of a beam or board. Moreover, their sizes can be adjusted within a fairly wide range.

In cases where the reliability of the connection wooden parts higher demands are made, the grooves and tenons are not made in a rectangular shape, but in a shape called “dovetail”. Grooves and tenons of this configuration are created using dovetail cutters. It is also possible to perform the procedure for forming grooves and tenons of this shape with a manual milling cutter, but for these purposes you should use devices of a different design.

Dovetail sampling using a template

So that the question of how to make a groove in a board or beam or a tenon on their side surface does not cause any particular difficulties, it is better to use a power tool equipped with comfortable side handles, a wide guide sole and the option of protecting the spindle from turning during the process of replacing the cutter. In addition, it is desirable that such equipment have a side stopper, due to which the overhang of the cutter used with it will always remain constant.

How to make a tenon pick-up device

When forming tenons on wooden workpieces with a manual router, it is not fixed in any way in space and is brought to the workpiece manually. That is why it is very important that when using a power tool, the workpiece is in a device that can ensure not only its reliable fixation, but also the accuracy of the spikes formed on its surface.

The design of the simplest device that is able to cope with such tasks is:

• several fixed guides (lower, upper, side);
• movable bar, due to which you can adjust the sampling length.

Such a device is manufactured, the dimensions of the components are selected individually, in the following sequence:

1. Along the edges of the plywood sheet, vertical side elements of equal height are fixed, with cutouts made in the central part.
2. Guides are installed on the side elements along which the sole of the hand router will move.
3. To limit the movement of a hand router along the upper guides, the side strips should be fixed to them.
4. On a sheet of plywood, which plays the role of the base of the device, it is necessary to install a movable element, with the help of which the amount of overhang of the edge of the workpiece will be adjusted. For fixation, you can use a regular thumbscrew or any other suitable fastener.

When manufacturing a device of the proposed design, the following points must be taken into account:

• The height of the upper guides should correspond to the sum of the thickness of the workpiece and the small gap required to install the locking wedge.
• The cutouts in the side vertical elements are made of such a width that it takes into account the length of the tenon being formed.

You can work using the device of the proposed design with a hand-held milling cutter of almost any type. modern model, the options of which provide the ability to adjust the cutting speed, feed rate and overhang of the working part of the tool used.

To create a dovetail tenon on the side surface of a beam or board, a device is used that is manufactured as follows.

• A hole is made in a sheet of multi-layer plywood from which the cutting part of the dovetail cutter will protrude.
• From the bottom of the prepared plywood sheet the manual router is fixed. To do this, you can use clamps, screws or any other fasteners.
• A 2.5 cm thick board is fixed to the surface of the plywood sheet on which the workpiece being processed will move. It will act as a guide element. This board is consumables and is used once with a cutter of a certain diameter.

Such a device can be installed between two chairs or a more convenient and reliable design can be used to place it.

Creating tenons on bars and boards

Using cutters for merging wood for a manual router and the device described above, processing is performed in the following sequence.

• The part to be processed is placed on the lower reference plane.
• The edge of the part on which the tenon will be formed is placed in the cutout of the upper guides and is advanced in it until it stops at the movable element of the device.
• The moving element is fixed in the required position.
• Using a wedge element, the upper plane of the part is pressed against the upper guides.
• A hand router is placed on the upper guides.
• Using a tool mounted on a router, the tree is first removed from one side of the tenon being formed.
• After processing one side, the workpiece is turned over and the second side of the tenon is formed.

Even such a device, which is simple in design, can be processed using hand cutters tongue-and-groove connections with high accuracy and productivity.

Before starting work, such a device must be configured. This can be done using the following algorithm.

• The tool installed in the hand router is lowered until it comes into contact with the surface of the base plywood.
• The thickness of the part is measured.
• The thickness of the workpiece is divided by 4. The result will be the distance by which it is necessary to raise the cutter above the surface of the base.

For slotted thread and sawing small parts Jigsaws are used from wood, plywood, plexiglass, plastics and other materials various designs and types. These can be manual (“pioneer”), mechanical and electric jigsaws. Various magazines provided diagrams of homemade jigsaw machines driven by an electric motor and even an electric drill. How to make a homemade one jigsaw machine read this article.

Using a tabletop jigsaw, you can make furniture, beautiful patterned shelves and much more at home. The mechanism allows you to cut smooth and curved parts from wood, plastic and dense foam materials. In order for a homemade device to fully satisfy the requirements, it is necessary to carefully select a suitable design.

Design and technical characteristics

The device of any model of jigsaw machine necessarily contains:

• saw;
• crank assembly;
• drive;
• saw tension device;
• desktop;
• auxiliary mechanisms.

The material to be processed is placed on the work table. Some models are equipped rotating device, changing the slope of the surface. To make it easier to mark the material with your own hands, graduations are applied to the surface.

The larger the table size, the longer the cut you can make. On average, this figure is 30 - 40 cm.

Drive power for homemade desktop machine is about 150 W.

The crank assembly converts the rotational motion of the drive into reciprocating motion and transmits it to the saw. On average, the frequency of saw blade vibrations per minute is 800 - 1000. The amplitude of vertical movement is no more than 5 cm. Some models allow you to select the speed of movement depending on the properties of the material.

File hand jigsaw can work with wood, plastic with a thickness of no more than 10 cm, having a length of up to 35 cm. For different types The materials and work of the files vary, their width is 2 - 10 mm.

A manual tension device secures the saw blade for uniform sawing; it consists of screw or leaf springs.

Types of machines

Structurally, all jigsaw devices can be divided:

• with lower support;
• with double support;
• on suspension;
• with degree scale and stops;
• universal.

The most common are models with a lower support. Their frame is divided into two halves: lower and upper. The cutting and cleaning module is located at the top. At the bottom there is a control module, an electric motor, a transmission mechanism and a switch. Allows you to process sheets of material of any size.

Models with double support differ in that there is an additional rail on the upper half of the bed. Such devices are good for creating oversized parts. They are easier to install than the previous option. Both models allow you to process material no thicker than 8 cm. The machine comes with a work table with adjustable angle and height.

Suspended machines are not equipped with a monolithic frame; they are very mobile. During processing, it is the cutting module that moves, not the material. The working module is usually attached to the ceiling with your own hands, so the size of the material is unlimited. Cutting tool moves by hand independently of the bed, creating very complex patterns.

Machines with a degree scale and stops are good for precise work according to drawings. The design allows you to avoid errors. Universal jigsaw machines can perform several operations associated with cutting: drilling, polishing, grinding.

Making a machine yourself

Homemade drawing table jigsaw: 1 - rocking insert (2 pcs.), 2 - earring (2 pcs.), 3 - table, 4.6 - screws, 5 - rod, 7 - eccentric, 8 - base, 9 - earring axes, 10 - upper rocker arm , 11 - rocker axis, 12 - wing, 13 - tension screw cross member (2 pcs), 14 - tension screw, 15 - rocker stand, 16 - lower rocker arm, 17 - box, 18 - double-ribbed pulley, 19 - intermediate shaft, 20 - stand bushing, 21 - table plate, 22 - bearing with cover (2 pcs.), 23 - electric motor pulley.

In the drawing of a tabletop machine made by yourself, the number of components must be kept to a minimum, these are: a rocking chair with a fixed saw, a bed and an electric motor. You can take a motor from an old electric machine.

Owners of a manual jigsaw are luckier. You can make a stand from a sheet of plywood and attach a jigsaw to it. To attach the jigsaw with your own hands, you will have to make holes in the base of the tool. The simplest model is ready.

Now about the more complex and functional ones. The frame is made by hand from 12 mm plywood, thick plastic or textolite. It consists of a base, a box for housing the engine and mechanisms, and a work table. On the other side we place a rocking chair with an eccentric. They are connected to each other by a metal plate with bushing bearings. The entire structure is secured with screws. To mount the intermediate shaft, prepare a pair of bearings. A double-strand metal pulley is placed on the shaft as tightly as possible, and the screw connection is secured. You can make an eccentric in the same way.

To change the amplitude of movement of the rocker, four round through holes with threads are made on the eccentric flange, located at a distance from the axis by different distance. By changing the installation location of the screw, the range of movement of the rocking chair is adjusted. It consists of a pair of wooden rocker arms hinged to a stand. The rear ends of the rocker arms contain through cuts; tension screws are inserted into them. A file is attached to the ends at the front and is movable due to metal hinges. Before fastening, the file is inserted into the groove work surface table.

The mechanism for attaching the file is very important. During production homemade device with his own hands he should be given special attention. The rocker arm insert plates carry permanent loads when moving, therefore they are rigidly fixed and tightened with Grover screws and washers. The fastening earrings should not be strongly compressed by the screws, allowing the hinge axis of the plate to move.

It is advisable to make the rocking stand from a single piece of material. A groove for the rocker arm is made on the upper side; a rectangular opening is cut out at the lower end for the second rocker arm. To make it easier to cut holes, you can fold the stand into two parts.

Video on how to make a jigsaw with your own hands:

Tenon joints are among the most durable (http://www.woodmastermagazine.ru/assets/files/pdf/2008-3/44_51.pdf).

Therefore, I decided to assemble a jig for making tenon joints using a hand router.
The idea was to make a device for quickly and conveniently cutting grooves for Domino insert tenons, because... ready-made solutions are too expensive.
It all started with a search suitable idea on the Internet. Next, adapt the idea to your needs and, finally, execute the drawings.
The operating principle is simple (see next photo).

The position of the groove relative to the edge of the workpiece is adjusted by the blue stop. It will be used as a special cabinet.
The width of the groove is determined accordingly by the width of the cutter, the length of the groove is determined by the position of the brown latch.
The black part is a 40 mm wide copy sleeve that fits in the resulting groove.

Next is the search for material. It seemed to me a good idea to make a jig from a 6 mm duralumin sheet. Although, probably, it can be made from any sheet material - plywood, plexiglass, PCB. A search for a suitable duralumin sheet at the local poultry market and at local metal collection sites did not yield any results: “Suitable pieces sometimes slip through, but now they don’t and it’s not known when they will. Call back later.” We managed to find it at metal warehouses required material. They even offered to cut it to size, but the problem is that they would have to take the entire sheet. And this is, firstly, expensive, and secondly, what should I do with the remaining 70% of the sheet.
As a result, I found an individual entrepreneur selling D16T duralumin sheets at retail on the Internet. http://dural16.ru/. Maybe someone will find it useful.
You can order a piece of duralumin sheet from them the right size And required thickness. But not everything is smooth here either. If you take not the whole sheet, but a part, then there is a serious markup.
I bought from them a suitable duralumin sheet 800×500 with a thickness of 6 mm for 4130 rubles, i.e. 614.58 rubles per kilogram. Yes, quite a lot.

In parallel with the search for material, the search for a turner-milling machine began. Wore through a couple of all-Russian thematic forums in search of fellow countrymen. As a result, I found a couple of dozen accounts to which I sent personal messages. Of these, eight people responded, to whom I later sent drawings with a question about the cost of the work. The price range for working with my material was significant - from two to eight thousand rubles.

As I said above, such a tenon cutter can be made from any sheet material. For example, from plexiglass, PCB or plywood. In this case, you can get by with a simple hand milling cutter. I decided to make my tenon cutter from duralumin, so I had to turn to specialists. It was for them that precise drawings were made with dimensions that might seem redundant and complex to some (although upon closer examination it becomes clear that this is not the case). These dimensions are selected in accordance with the dimensions of the router's side and for a specific copy sleeve.
Making from duralumin is not the best cheap solution both in terms of the cost of the material and the cost of the work, but it suits me. It’s interesting to watch how a product you imagined and drew in 3D materializes and becomes a real product.

As we see in the next photo, finished product very simple. When assembling it I encountered an unexpected difficulty. The fact is that in the original design the plates are connected with aluminum rivets with a countersunk head.
It turned out that finding such rivets on sale is not a trivial task. They are not only available in ordinary hardware stores, but even in highly specialized hardware stores. I had to connect the plates with ordinary blind rivets.

The most cunning element of the design is the retractable tongue, which adjusts the length of the groove for the tenon. The whole trick is just the need to adjust the dovetail. Otherwise, there are no difficulties in its manufacture. To make it shorter, not one, but two holes are made in the main plate into which a fixing bolt is inserted, depending on the required size of the groove.
In this case, the position of the groove on the tongue itself is chosen in such a way that, in any position of the tongue, the sole of the router does not rest against the locking wing nut.

To attach the tenon cutter, I assembled a cabinet from 21 mm plywood, shown in the following photo. In the upper part of the cabinet there are two parallel grooves for fastening the plate with M10 bolts, in the front part there is a hole for fixing the workpieces on the tenoning machine using clamps.

To give the cabinet the necessary rigidity, I made an additional crossbar inside.

After assembly we get such a device. Before installation, I first matted the metal surfaces in contact with the router sole and with the workpieces using 120 and 240 sandpaper.

Under the plate I attached a strip of duralumin to the cabinet. This strip expands the possibilities of attaching workpieces to the tenon saw using clamps.

So far I haven’t had the opportunity to give my tenon cutter a real test, but I think it will do the job. I will make the inserted studs, despite the fact that you can buy them ready-made (http://www.kalpa-vriksa.ru/catalog/vstavnye_shipy_domino_dlya_festool_df500/) myself. Still, the cost of one spike is almost 10 rubles - a little expensive.

Specifications:
Dimensions - 250x440x112 mm
Weight - about 5 kilograms
Max. cutter diameter - 37 mm
Max. groove length - 154 mm
The thickness of the base under the router is 12 mm

Using this tenon cutter I made

Using a tenon cutter you can make grooves for insert tenons in in the right place blanks

If it is not possible to secure the workpiece to the tenoning saw, then the movable part of the tenoning saw is removed and attached to the workpiece.

If there is a need to process the ends of long workpieces, the tenon cutter can be placed on its side.

The tenon cutter is quite convenient to use and the result is quite high quality.

P.S. In the comments they wrote to me about another tenon cutter made according to these drawings. The original message can be found below. I’ll just give a summary:
... there is no need to contact different masters. I made a tenon cutter according to your drawings in one day from an aluminum sheet 4 mm thick. 4 mm is the most best option for making it yourself. I used a hand router, a circular saw, a file and an electric drill. I just attached another aluminum plate to the plywood bed at the bottom. It’s better to fasten the milled part this way, pressing it against the top and bottom plates... Aluminum cuts well circular saw and a manual milling cutter at low speeds. Milled with an 8 mm cutter for metal...

I would like to add that this was a great experience. self-made tenon cutters, thank you for your experience.

Even a small inaccuracy, multiplied by the number of tenons, can ruin the tenon joint, which is considered one of the most capricious to manufacture. The fixture described below provides accurate and fast production tenon connection for boxes. In addition, with the help of one single device you can make spikes different sizes.

The device consists of three main parts - a base, which is attached with clamps to the milling table, a movable slide with a vertical stop, and replaceable pads for making tenons of different sizes. All parts of this device are made of 19 mm thick birch plywood and hardwood. The parts are simply glued together. The length of the base depends on the width milling table. Measure the distance from the right edge to the axis of the cutter. To measure, insert a V-shaped cutter into the scurvy. The sharp tip of the cutter is located exactly on the axis of rotation. Add 70 mm to the resulting size to determine the length of the base (in our case - 356 mm). Then make the device shown in the figure.

To ensure that the slide slides easily along the base, when assembling, provide a small gap by inserting pieces of paper between the base and the slides. If you plan to use the jig to make studs of different sizes, make several interchangeable pads. You will have to install a new pad when changing to a different size. To make a T-slot in a trim, first select the center section using a straight bit and then use a T-bit to make a final pass.

The sizes of the eyes and tenons depend on the diameter of the cutter used, but since the adjustable pads can be changed, you have the opportunity to choose a cutter of any size. In order for the joints to look neat, that is, to begin and end with whole tenons and eyes, the width of the parts must be a multiple of the diameter of the cutter. To set up, make two test pieces from the scraps, having the same length and thickness as the walls of the box, but 3 mm wider than the final height of the box.

Even small dimensional deviations add up over the numerous passes that form the joint. Therefore, leave a small margin in width on the workpieces to avoid unpleasant surprises later. You can easily remove the remaining allowance when the joints are ready.

Now install the jig on your router table, set it up, and make a box in 12 easy steps.

Select a cutter according to the thickness of the parts, for example to make 6mm wide tenons in 6mm thick walls. But you can take a cutter larger diameter for making larger spikes.

Attach the base of the jig to the router table, aligning the router bit to the center of the cutout. Place the workpiece on the base and set the cutter overhang so that it protrudes slightly from above.

Place a slide with a vertical stop on top of the base and secure the pad, aligning its ends flush with the slides. Move the slide forward to use a router bit to make an eyelet cutout in the trim.

Make a T-shaped bar from the scraps to fix the distance from the edge of the router table to the pad. The rail must be of sufficient height so that its end rests against the overlay.

Cut a template from hardwood square section, fitting tightly into the cutout of the lining. Saw it in two and put them together to move the trim.

Remove the crossbar and slats, then make a second eyelet cutout in the trim. Trim the pin stop to 51mm length and glue it into the new eyelet flush with the back of the trim.

To check the settings, press the edge of the test piece against the pin stop. Slide the slide forward to make the first eye in the workpiece.

Place the first eye on the pin stop and rout the second eye. Continue the operation until complete, each time placing a new eye on the pin stop.

To form the first cutout at the corner of the adjacent workpiece, insert the second part of the strip between it and the pin stop. After making the first pass, set the staff aside.

Press the corner cutout against the pin stop and make a second pass. Sequentially form all the tenons and eyes of the connection. Saw the sides of the box to the final width, removing any incomplete tenons.

Perform a trial assembly of the connection. It should be easily connected by hand, but not separated under its own weight. Change settings if necessary.

Proprietary clamps for gluing boxes allow you to compress parts with protruding ends of the tenons, but at the same time distribute the pressure over the entire joint.

To tenon joints boxes turned out flawless, follow these tips:

• Before making joints, position the walls of the box in the way they will be finally glued together and place marks. To avoid confusing their orientation, mark the outside and top of each wall. Remember that connections on opposite walls must be made the same way.
• A cutter with an upward spiral gives a cleaner cut with a minimum of chips. In addition, the cutting forces during operation of such a cutter are directed downward, pressing the workpiece to the table and preventing it from rising.
• When working on wood that is prone to chipping, use double-sided tape to secure any excess scrap to the front edge of the workpiece.
• Always make the spikes a little longer; their protruding ends can be easily removed by grinding or a copying cutter after assembling the box. To prevent chips from occurring on the outer tenons, press a piece of timber or board against them with a clamp.
• If the bottom of a box with straight tenons is to be inserted into the tongues of the walls, dry assemble the box, secure the walls with clamps and select the tongues from the inside using a slotted cutter with a bearing. Then make roundings on the corners of the bottom in accordance with the radius of the cutter.
• Glue the boxes within 24 hours after making the joints. If parts are left for several days, the tenons may shrink or swell, making assembly difficult or even impossible.
• Gluing four joints with a large number spikes and lugs makes you rush. Save time by applying glue only to the inner edges of the studs.

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Agree, it is very problematic to quickly and efficiently cut the ideal round spike at the ends of wooden blanks round section. Well, of course, unless you are the happy owner of a CNC tenoning machine. For those whose shop or workshop is not so richly “packed” we offer elegant way solutions to this problem. Make a simple and reliable conductor from scrap materials in 15 minutes

1. Blank

You will need a small block of wood or MDF. The approximate dimensions are a cross-section of 4x4 cm, a length of about 10 cm. However, it all depends on the diameter of the intended tenon and the size of the workpiece.

2. Hole for workpiece

Drill a hole in the block whose diameter will be equal to the diameter of your round workpiece. If the hole comes out with a small allowance, it will be absolutely fine.

A small allowance won't hurt. This will make cutting the tenon easier in the future. But don't overdo it, otherwise you may end up with backlash.

3. Limiter

To prevent the workpiece from falling through during processing, you will need to install a limiter. To do this, cut out a plate from fiberboard or thin MDF with a size equal to the base of your block. Of course, you can glue the base to the block with wood glue, but it makes sense to do it easier - connect these two parts with double-sided adhesive tape.

4. Setting up the router

Now set up your router to cut the tenon. Use a straight bit. Set the height of your tenon, remembering to compensate for the thickness of the stopper.

5. Adjust the stop

Adjust the router stop so that the center of the cutter coincides with the center of the hole in the jig

6. Milling the groove

At this stage, mill a groove in the jig blank. It is better to do this in 2-3 passes. You can put a mark on the stop so that each pass ends in the same place, namely in the center of the hole.

The conductor is ready!

7. Secure the jig

You should securely attach the resulting jig to the stop milling machine. The easiest way to do this is with a clamp. Adjust the offset of the cutter to the diameter of your future round tenon.