From time immemorial, such technology as a vacuum cleaner has used fundamental parts such as a motor, a filter and a dust collector. Household assistants with bags are not suitable for cleaning rooms under renovation or in your own workshop, because they are unable to retain fine dust, and the filters and dust collector quickly fail. That's why repair teams To deal with debris, expensive construction vacuum cleaners are purchased, and enterprises install special installations with a cyclone to capture and sediment dust. And craftsmen can install a cyclone filter with their own hands, which can be used with a household vacuum cleaner, even with a paper bag.

Data-lazy-type="image" data-src="http://chistyjdom.ru/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/ris-2-12-209x300.jpg" alt="cyklon" width="209" height="300">!} Air with dirt from the hose through the pipe enters the cylindrical cyclone body. The pipe is attached to the body along a tangent line, so the air flow forms something like a spiral. Centrifugal force carries debris and dust to the inner walls of the device, then they settle in the dust collector due to gravity. Air with tiny dust particles, resistant to centrifugal force, exits into another chamber onto the membrane to complete the cleaning and enters the receiving fan.
After cleaning the dirt from storage tank pour out, clean the membrane if necessary.

Therefore, you can put such a vacuum cleaner in a carpentry workshop to use a homemade vacuum cleaner cyclone type for collecting sawdust at the end or during work.

Features, as well as pros and cons

So, unlike its counterparts equipped with bags, the cyclonic method of dust separation from a vacuum cleaner will have the following advantages:

• Constantly high operating power because the unit does not become clogged with debris.
• Ease of maintenance of a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone device, since homemade filter for a vacuum cleaner it is easy to clean, washable if desired, no need to buy additional bags.
• The engine of the device operates in optimal mode, without unnecessary stress, due to which it lasts longer due to the freedom of air movement in the dust collector.
• A do-it-yourself cyclone filter also has some disadvantages:
• It is difficult for a device with this type of filtration to collect hair, wool, and threads into the storage tank. They often end up on the membrane following the cyclone.
• The quality of cleaning depends on the suction power, so it is necessary to select a more powerful motor.
• The plastic parts of the unit accumulate static electricity, so its body can give a slightly unpleasant electric shock when touched.

Based on this, assembling a homemade vacuum cleaner for a home workshop or making a cyclone filter for a construction vacuum cleaner will be the best cost-effective choice.

How to make a cyclone with your own hands

Today the Internet offers many variations with detailed description how to make cyclone filters for a vacuum cleaner from scrap materials. In some cases, you will need certain machines and devices, but not everyone has them, so we offer you a simpler option.

Necessary materials from which you can make a cyclone:

• Plastic barrel for liquid (3-5 l.);
• Car filter in the shape of a cylinder;
• A sewer pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose;
• Corrugated hose, diameter is similar;
• Thin steel, its trim and corners from brackets and fittings;
• Nuts, screws;
• Nylon stocking.

Collection process

1. On the lid of the container with inside We install a bracket for the filter, cut from steel strips so that the filter fits tightly to the lid to prevent dirt from getting into the outlet pipe with air.
2. On the other side of the lid, we hermetically install an outlet pipe for the purified air to exit from the cyclone into the vacuum cleaner. The factory filter must be left.
3. We install a bumper made of galvanized sheet metal around the car filter, perhaps in the shape of a cone, so that it is shaken out less often. We put a stocking on top of the filter to protect it from light particles of debris.
4. We insert the inlet pipe along a tangent line into the wall of the barrel with a slight slope towards the bottom in order to immediately set the required trajectory for the incoming air.
5. Because plastic barrel It is not designed for heavy vacuum loads due to the thinness of the material; its walls can be reinforced with a steel strip to prevent collapse.
6. Place the lid on the barrel.

The main thing when assembling a vacuum cleaner from a barrel is careful sealing in all places where pipes and screw connections are attached, since the slightest air leakage will reduce the vacuum effect, and the flow will form a low-quality vortex.

Cyclonic designs of household vacuum cleaners are considered one of the most good options technology in terms of operational efficiency. The cyclone system is a relatively simple separation mechanism that makes it possible to effectively filter suspended particles present in the air stream.

Based on the theoretical principles of constructing such a system, it is quite possible to create a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner, acting as additional tool– for example, a construction separator. Interested in the question, but don’t know how to make a simple cyclone yourself? We will help you realize your plans.

The article provides detailed information about the design of a cyclone separator, and also provides step by step instructions on its assembly and connection to the vacuum cleaner. A description of all stages of the work process is accompanied by visual photographs.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

About how to build another one with your own hands - more simple design cyclone, the video below clearly shows and explains.

The author uses this homemade system in everyday practice and am extremely satisfied. A cyclone separator made from an ordinary bucket helps to work in clean conditions during economic construction work:

Self-assembly of a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner is acceptable and quite possible. Moreover, there are projects of similar “homemade” systems that can actually be made, if not in 2 minutes, then in a couple of hours. Such a cyclone is really worth spending some time on its manufacture. Costs are fully reimbursed.

Do you have experience making a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner? Please tell readers about your method of assembling the separator. Comment on the post, participate in discussions and add photos of your homemade products. Block feedback located below.

If a person has his own workshop, then one of critical issues It costs to clean the room. But unlike cleaning dust in an apartment, a regular household vacuum cleaner will not help here, since it is not designed for construction waste and sawdust - its garbage container (dust container or bag) will very quickly become clogged and become unusable. Therefore, homemade ones are often used cyclone filter, which, together with a household vacuum cleaner, will help clean the workshop.

Introduction

Wood dust and other technical debris, although it seems harmless at first glance, actually pose many different dangers, both for the master and for the equipment. For example, prolonged work without protective equipment that prevents dust from entering the respiratory system can cause serious complications with respiratory tract, deteriorate the sense of smell, etc. In addition, a tool that is in a workshop under the influence of dust can quickly fail. This happens because:

1. dust, mixing with lubricant inside the tool, forms a mixture that is completely unsuitable for lubricating moving parts, which results in overheating and further damage
2. dust can make it difficult for the moving parts of the tool to rotate, which leads to additional stress, overheating and failure,
3. dust clogs the air ducts designed to ventilate the heated parts of the tool and remove heat from them, again resulting in overheating, deformation and failure.

Thus, the issue of the quality of removal of sawing products and, in general, cleaning of the premises is very acute. Modern power tools are equipped with systems for removing dust and chips directly from the sawing area, which prevents dust from spreading throughout the workshop. In any case, the dust removal process requires a vacuum cleaner (or chip cleaner)!

There are good industrial vacuum cleaners and if possible, it is better to choose the most best option price and quality and buy a construction vacuum cleaner.

However, there are cases when you already have a household vacuum cleaner and it is easier to upgrade it and solve the problem of collecting construction waste indoors. To do this, you need to use a cyclone filter - it can be done in half an hour if all the necessary elements are available.

Operating principle

There are a great many different designs of cyclones, but they all share the same operating principle. All designs of cyclone chip suckers consist of three main parts:

• Household vacuum cleaner
• Cyclone filter
• Waste collection container

Its design is such that the flow of intake air is directed in a circle and its rotational movement is obtained. Accordingly, the construction waste contained in this air flow (these are large and heavy fractions) is acted upon by a centrifugal force, which presses it against the walls of the cyclone chamber and, under the influence of gravity, it gradually settles in the tank.

The disadvantage of a cyclone vacuum cleaner is that in this way you can only collect dry garbage, but if there is water in the garbage, then there will be problems when sucking up such a substance.

The vacuum cleaner must be powerful enough, since in its normal mode of operation it is assumed that air is sucked through a standard hose. If an additional cyclone filter is used, a additional filter, and the total length of the duct is more than doubled due to the additional duct. Since the design is as maneuverable as a separate vacuum cleaner, the length of the last hose should be sufficient for comfortable work.

Preparatory work

As mentioned above, you can make a cyclone filter for a workshop in half an hour, but to do this you need to check the availability of everything necessary for the production of a chip blower with your own hands, namely: tools, materials and consumables.

Tools

To carry out the work, the following tools will be needed:

1. electric drill,
2. screwdriver,
3. jigsaw,
4. compass,
5. clamps,
6. Phillips screwdriver,
7. pencil,
8. on wood (50-60mm),
9. kit .

Materials and fasteners

Materials can be used both new and used, so carefully review the list below - you may already have something in stock;

1. The air duct (hose) for a vacuum cleaner is corrugated or in a textile braid.
2. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 100–150 mm, into one of the ends of which the air duct of your household vacuum cleaner should be inserted.
3. Sewer outlet 30 or 45 degrees, 100–200 mm long, into one end of which the air duct specified in paragraph 1 will be inserted.
4. Plastic bucket (“large”) 11-26 liters with a hermetically sealed lid.
5. Bucket (“small”) plastic 5-11 liters. Note. It is important that the difference between the two maximum diameters of the buckets is approximately 60–70 mm.
6. Sheet 15–20 mm thick. Note. The sheet size must be larger than the maximum diameter of the Large Bucket.
7. Wood screws with a flat wide head and a length of 2/3 of the thickness.
8. Universal gel sealant.

Table standard sizes round plastic buckets.

Volume, l	Cover diameter, mm	Height, mm
1,0	125	115
1,2	132	132
2,2	160	150
2,3	175	133
2,6	200	124
3,0	200	139
3,4	200	155
3,8	200	177
3,8	200	177
5,0	225	195
11	292	223
18	326	275
21	326	332
26	380	325
33	380	389

Making a cyclone filter

Creating a homemade chip sucker consists of a number of stages:

1. Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert
2. Installing the Retaining Ring
3. Installing the side pipe
4. Top entry installation
5. Installing a shaped insert
6. Cyclone filter assembly

Creating a retaining ring and a shaped insert

It is necessary to cut off the side of a small bucket, which is used to attach the lid. The result should be a cylinder like this (well, slightly conical).

We make markings - place a small bucket on it and draw a line along the edge - we get a circle.

Then we determine the center of this circle (see. school course geometry) and mark another circle, the radius of which is 30 mm larger than the existing one. Then we mark the ring and the shaped insert, as shown in the figure.

Installing the Retaining Ring

We fix the ring on the edge of a small bucket so that we get a side. We fasten using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes to avoid splitting.

We mark the roof of a large bucket. To mark, you need to place the bucket itself on the lid of a large bucket and trace its outline. It is better to make markings with a felt-tip pen, as the mark is clearly visible.

It is important to note that all connections must be airtight; therefore, before installing the cover, the connection area must be coated with sealant. You also need to coat the junction of the wooden ring and the small bucket.

Installing the side pipe

The side pipe is made from a sewer outlet of 30 degrees (or 45 degrees). To install it, you need to drill a hole in the top of the small bucket with a crown. note that top part The bottom of the small bucket has now become its bottom.

Top entry installation

To make the upper input, you need to drill a hole in the upper part of the chip sucker (small bucket), that is, in the center of the former bottom.

To securely fix the inlet pipe, you need to use an additional strength element in the form of a square piece of 20 mm thickness with a central hole for the pipe of 50 mm.

This workpiece is fastened from below with four self-tapping screws. Before installation, the joint must be coated with sealant to ensure a tight seal.

Installing a shaped insert

The shaped insert is a very important component of a homemade chip cleaner; it must be secured inside the cyclone filter, as shown in the photo.

Cyclone filter assembly

Then you need to connect the air ducts correctly:

1. Upper pipe – to a household vacuum cleaner
2. An angled outlet that enters from the side at an angle to the hose.

The homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner (chip cleaner) is ready.

Video

Video this review is based on:

When working in a workshop or at home with a grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, the need arises to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is advisable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing local constant air purification at the workplace.

At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filter units with a cyclone, which collects and sediments dust with the required efficiency.

In our case it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on the purchase of a construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.

The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter

There are several options for making a cyclone for domestic needs. To decide on the most effective scheme operation of the equipment, you should know the operating principle of this filter.

Cyclone in classic version It is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for purified air.

The inlet is made so that the air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (down).

Inertial forces act on pollutant particles and carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where dust settles.

Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves towards the cone and is removed into the receiving hopper. The purified air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.

Required condition effective cleaning air is the exact calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.

Otherwise, the principle of operation is disrupted and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling normally.

In addition, it is necessary to select a motor that sucks in contaminated air, which will ensure optimal operating parameters of the equipment.

Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the variants of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.

The most simple circuit Such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded inlet pipe tangentially, a built-in filter from a car inside the “cyclone” body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.

The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.

In essence, we get an additional capacity for settling large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the filter at the outlet, and will require constant cleaning.

To improve the design, we suggest adding a plastic barrel homemade cyclone made from a traffic cone. It is best if the work is carried out over several hours, install stationary option equipment for removing dust from the workplace.

In this case we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use regular vacuum cleaner with adjustable suction power.

Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the rotation speed of the vacuum cleaner engine, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the filter.

In the following sections of the article we will present you with two options for a cyclone for domestic use.

Selection of equipment - what is needed for work

For the first design option for a permanent installation, you will need the following components:

• Plastic barrel;
• Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
• Traffic cone;
• Corrugated hoses, reinforced steel wire or metallized hoses;
• Adhesive for plastic;
• Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to six times the exchange of air in the room;
• Plywood 10-12 mm thick.

The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.

To make a filter you will need to purchase:

• Ready-made plastic cyclone made in China;
• A barrel, bucket or other container for making a dust bin;
• Corrugated hoses.

A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, approximately 1500-2500 rubles, and is designed to collect medium and heavy dust. Works great with shavings and sawdust.

Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process

Our first option is stationary design for workshops with large amounts of dust of various origins.

Assembling a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner

1. First we make the cyclone itself. We make a hole in the plastic cone to allow the sewer pipe to pass tangentially.
2. For better connection The mating surface of the pipe with the cone body is matted with emery cloth. We glue the seams using a mounting gun.
3. In the upper part of the cone we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. In this way we can achieve vortex air movement. The pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal to the size of the base of the cone.
4. The prepared cyclone is secured to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
5. To prevent the plastic barrel from becoming deformed under the influence of vacuum when the inlet pipe becomes clogged with debris, we install a spacer inside the container - a frame made of plywood sheet. External dimensions the frames follow the inner diameter of the barrel. To strengthen the structure, we attach the construction cone to the lid of the container using metal pins.
6. Next, we connect the cyclone to corrugated hoses at the entrance and exit. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.

The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also attached to any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the container using a metal clamping flange.

VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS

When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.

If finer air purification is required, the design is supplemented with a car filter in the housing at the outlet of the product.

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for building a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat” and not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that got there would fall into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then it will not be necessary to replace it soon, as in a regular construction vacuum cleaner with a filter without a cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

For the cyclone body, a suitable one was found very conveniently can, and the central pipe is made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen according to the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the autofilter is also made from galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent in the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter body (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and the engine compartment I used 2 barrels of machine oil (60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The gravitational cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy and reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using the vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finishing touches and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of work with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore this function no test was performed.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.

— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And a special big thank you to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.